Pesticide Spraying

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Taking a stand: Maggy Howe, seen with her 5-year-old son Zane, says she will resist any attempt to enforce a pesticide spraying order near her home.

In the Air

Threat of widespread pesticide spraying sparks resistance

By Tara Treasurefield

FIVE-YEAR-OLD Zane Howe, who has raised painted-lady butterflies since he was 2, says that butterflies are his best friends and believes that their lives are as valuable as his. When his “friends” unfold their wings for the first time, he releases them into his family’s organic garden outside of Occidental. But Zane’s mother, Maggy Howe, is convinced that both Zane and his butterflies are in danger, as pesticides may soon be sprayed in residential areas of Sonoma County to control the glassy-winged sharpshooter, an insect that carries the deadly-to-vineyards Pierce’s disease.

Is this woman nuts? Didn’t the local daily run an article last week titled “State Rejects Wine Pest Sprays, Quarantines”? Well, yeah. But those who read the article carefully know that the headline is only half true: Bill Lyons Jr., secretary of the California Department of Food and Agriculture, has rejected quarantines, but he has not rejected pesticides, or even the possibility of enforced aerial spraying to control the pest.

In fact, chlorpyrifos, a neurotoxin banned last month by the Environmental Protection Agency for residential use, was sprayed recently by aircraft in Riverside County on a 260-acre orange grove adjacent to a housing development. In Porterville and Fresno, two areas where the pest has caused extensive crop damage, another powerful neurotoxin, Sevin, was sprayed on the ground in residential areas.

“Zane’s current batch of butterflies is in the cocoon stage,” Maggy Howe says. “He’s given names to all of them. How do you explain to a 5-year-old what’s going to happen to his butterflies–or what did happen to them?”

Howe is also concerned about her son’s health. “You can cover the sandbox, but there’s no guarantee that the pesticide won’t get on the child’s toys,” she says. “How do you wash it off? Can you wash it off? As a mother, I am completely outraged.”

She is among a growing number of residents who believe that their lives–and, in some cases, livelihoods–may be placed in jeopardy by enforced spraying against the pest. The situation has escalated in recent weeks, owing to pressure from the federal government and the multibillion-dollar wine industry, laying the groundwork for political action and fomenting talk of civil disobedience.

“The wine industry has brought this on itself,” says Brock Dolman, a biologist at the Occidental Arts and Ecology Center, “through unsustainable vineyard practices. Monocropping, excessive irrigation, and overuse of chemicals make vineyards vulnerable to the sharpshooter and other pests.”

Organic farmer Bob Cannard, who will lose his livelihood if his property is sprayed, thinks that public officials are being short-sighted in their response. “Moving directly to the full-kill approach is our cultural response,” he says. “This makes a lot of money for those that do the killing, and that’s what they’re into.”

Howe, Dolman, and Cannard are among a considerable contingent of critics who say that state and county agricultural officials are not giving enough credence to alternatives to spraying. “It’s ludicrous not to declare a quarantine,” says Robin VanSickle, a nurse at Kaiser Permanente in Santa Rosa. “The bugs didn’t fly 500 miles to Northern California; they were transported in trucks–‘Express Mail’ for the bug. If you want to contain an insect, you don’t put plants infested with it in garden centers for people to take home and disperse.”

Still, the CDFA continues to allow shipments of nursery stock and grapes from infested areas. Glassy-winged sharpshooter egg casings have been discovered at two Sonoma County ornamental plant nurseries, yet officials argue that a quarantine would unfairly penalize nurseries.

“Government officials don’t have their priorities straight. Above all, they should protect the health and welfare of our environment and communities,” says first-time father of a newborn Sean Callaway. “The commerce of a particular industry, in this case wine grapes, should never take precedence over the health of a community and its ecosystem. Hundreds of citizens are now aware of the dangers of the chemicals being sprayed all around us. This is not acceptable, and we intend to put an end to it.”

But why would the state endanger children, organic farms, and even butterflies? “The state has decided that business profits supersede the health or rights of its citizens,” says Will Shonbrun, publisher of the Sonoma Valley Voice. “Californians are being forced to submit to the spraying of highly toxic pesticides on their property. As a private property owner, I consider this an invasion.

“As a private citizen, I consider it a usurpation of my right and my family’s right not to be endangered by forced poisoning.”

HE’S NOT ALONE in that sentiment. A couple of weeks ago, several Sonoma County residents spoke passionately at a Board of Supervisors’ hearing to express their alarm over the possibility of aerial or ground spraying. A couple even defiantly told the supes that they will resist any attempt to enforce a pesticide-spraying order.

Now a group of county activists is preparing to organize civil disobedience training for those opposed to the spraying. Speaking for the Town Hall Coalition, an Occidental-based group that has fought vineyard expansion and related issues, Lynn Hamilton is inviting concerned citizens to plan actions to derail the “full-kill approach” at an upcoming pesticides forum. Speakers will include CDFA Secretary Lyons and Nick Frey of the Sonoma County Grape Growers Association.

“We need to go to our state representatives, organize a demonstration, and start a petition saying we object to both ground and aerial spraying,” says Hamilton, a former Sebastopol mayor who worked as a community organizer in South America before returning to the west county two years ago.

In the meantime, others have their own plans. “I have a 10-year-old daughter and a 75-year-old grandmother in my household,” says Shonbrun. “I will not permit them to be put in harm’s way through enforced home invasion and pesticide spraying for the sake of the wine industry. Others who oppose what I consider to be immoral and illegal government actions must decide what course of action to take, but I will resist and protect my family and property, regardless of the consequences.”

Dolman says that the 10 people who own the OAEC’s extensive organic farm “would have to have some very serious collective discussions about how to respond. I’d venture to guess that some resistance would be put forth to prevent any efforts to contaminate our property,” he says.

VanSickle says she’s not willing to be martyred on the altar of wine-industry profits. “They haven’t sprayed me yet, and they’d better not try. Better the vines than me, my kid, my husband, my neighbors, my quail.”

Maggy Howe agrees. “If they come to my door, I’ll protest in any way I can,” she says. “Civil disobedience is a possibility.”

The Town Hall Coalition pesticide forum will be held on Thursday, July 27, at 7:30 p.m., at the Occidental Community Center, 3920 Bohemian Hwy., Occidental. 874-9110.

From the July 20-26, 2000 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Wine

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Swirl, Sniff, Sip, and Spit

If you think Kendall is one of the original Jackson Five, you need help. If you think a sommelier is someone who walks in his sleep; or that “the crush” describes the Novato Narrows at peak commute time; or that phylloxera is a punk-thrash band, you need help. And if you think all zinfandels are pink, all sauvignons are blanc, and all pinots are red, you really do need help now. It can be embarrassing to live in the Wine Country and not know your Alsace from your merlot. But fret not–there are several ways to empower yourself with the mystical knowledge of viticulture (that’s vino talk to you, bub). The Sonoma County Wineries Association frequently teams up with local wine educators to present classes for those who’re a little green about the grape. Or you can enroll in a wine class, such as component tasting, at Santa Rosa Junior College. There are also on-going winetasting classes at the Applewood Inn in Guerneville (869-9093). Many North Bay restaurants, cooking schools, and wineries hold events that feature food and wine pairing. Then there’s also the world-renowned Sonoma County Wine Library, which boasts a vast collection of books, pamphlets, magazines, films, and local records, all relating in some way to wine, wineries, or the Wine Country in general. Here are a few ways to pop the cork on Wine 101:

Sonoma County

Benziger Family Winery tour 1883 London Ranch Road, Glen Ellen. 935-0300

Mistral Restaurant 1229 N. Dutton Ave., Santa Rosa. 578-4511.

Ramekins Sonoma Valley Culinary School 450 W. Spain St., Sonoma. 933-0450.

Santa Rosa Junior College 1501 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa. 527-4237.

Sonoma County Tourism Program 520 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa. 565-5383.

Sonoma County Wine and Visitors Center 5000 Roberts Lake Road, Rohnert Park. 586-3795.

Sonoma County Wine Library 139 Piper St., Healdsburg. 433-3772.

Sonoma County Wineries Association 5000 Roberts Lake Road, Rohnert Park. 586-3795.

Napa County

Culinary Institute of America Marketplace 2555 Main St., St. Helena. 967-2309.

Napa Cooking School 1088 College Ave., St. Helena. 967-2930.

Napa Wine Train 1275 McKinstry St., Napa. 253-2111.

Napa Valley Conference and Visitors Bureau 1310 Town Center, Napa. 226-7459.

From the July 20-26, 2000 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Pet Care Resources

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Paws for Thought

As your dog’s agile body comes skidding across your hardwood floors, the clickity-clack of its overgrown nails become recognizable. Nails grow at a fast rate, and you, too, would be skidding around if it were not for your dexterous ability to file your own nails. Clipping your dog’s nails yourself is possible. But how do you pin down your pet (we’ll call him Fido here) for a manicure? First, fit him with a tight muzzle and find a helper to hold him. Holding entails placing Fido on his side, and then putting one arm in front of his back legs and firmly anchoring the other arm underneath his chin. Then, using nail clippers of appropriate size, discourage mass hemorrhage by shaving off small sheets of nail until you can see the pink nail bed. For the sake of your terrified pet and your clean carpet, don’t clip the nails too short (trying to catch Fido once he’s freed and decorating your carpet with bloody little half moons is maddening). You should cut only the transparent part of the nail past the foot pads so that you don’t hurt Fido by cutting into the “quick’–the portion that has nerves and blood vessels. Give Fido a pedicure every six weeks and you’ll will save a trip to the vet and protect your floors and lap. But if this home remedy sounds too daunting, sit up, roll over, and take heed. Help is at hand (and, er, at paw). Check out a few suggestions below and get your long-nailed mutt–or perhaps an unfortunately mangy, malodorous, matted one–in stunningly spiffy shape.

Sonoma County

The Dapper Dog 215 G St., Petaluma. 762-5918.

Dawg Groomer 609 E. Washington St., Petaluma. 763-2144.

Deb’s Pet Grooming 5979 Commerce Blvd., Rohnert Park. 588-8845.

Forty-Niner Pet 365 Southwest Blvd., Rohnert Park. 795-1242.

The Groomery 123 Stanford St., Santa Rosa, 576-1575.

The Grooming Gallery 847 Gravenstein Hwy., Sebastopol. 829-3535.

Healdsburg Dog Grooming 1460 Grove St., Healdsburg. 433-2559.

Kamp K-9 6915 Gravenstein Hwy., Cotati. 795-5995.

Little Friends Pet Hotel 7960 Gravenstein Hwy., Cotati. 795-6126.

Paws of Santa Rosa 4932 Sonoma Hwy., Santa Rosa. 538-7297.

Perfect Paws Pet Grooming 2468 W. Third St., Santa Rosa. 527-7297.

Pet Talk Grooming 6 Enterprise Drive., Rohnert Park. 585-3810.

Petaluma Pet Groomer 117 Washington St., Petaluma. 762-6281.

Piccadilly Pets 9237 Piccadilly Circle, Windsor. 837-9528.

Plaza Grooming 24 10th St., Santa Rosa. 544-1298.

Rincon Valley Pet Grooming 4988 1/2 Sonoma Hwy. 539-0937.

Scissorhands 6553 Front St., Forestville. 887-0190.

Shampoodle 587 Montecito Center, Santa Rosa. 539-1546.

The Soggy Doggy 403 Seventh St., Santa Rosa. 542-0244.

U Do It Self Service Pet Bathing 6 Enterprise Drive, Rohnert Park. 585-3810.

Napa County

Bubbles N Bows 585 Coombsville Road., Napa. 258-8022.

Dog World 1050 Pueblo Ave., Napa. 252-6206.

Pet Cuts 1119 Lincoln Ave., Napa. 258-1164.

The Red Dog Salon 3679 Silverado Trail N., St. Helena. 963-9358.

Reese’s Grooming 818 Jackson St., Napa. 224-6146.

Scoobi-Doo’s 2742 Jefferson St., Napa. 226-2727.

Tails of the City 2205 Main St., Napa. 254-7877.

Vintage Dog Palace 1128 Franklin St., Napa. 252-8180.

From the July 20-26, 2000 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Stress Reduction

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“Stress reduction” is the key term. It’s all the same to the relaxation-deprived. Whether you’re an off-duty cop luxuriating in your regular shiatsu massage and deep-pore facial; a world-weary attorney ready to kiss your caseload goodbye for an hour, immersed up to the neck in bubbling mud; or a frazzled mom surrendering to the sweet joy of an aromatherapy body wrap and extended soak in the hot springs. We all need to unwind, and the more pampering involved the better. Luckily for us, there are plenty of places to unravel knotted minds and muscles in Sonoma and Napa counties. Just check out all the upscale Wine Country spas, natural hot springs, and volcanic-mud baths practically in the back yard. Choose from a myriad of tension-busting treatments. Some folks just relish being packed up to their chins in hot wood chips and enzymes, a unique Japanese heat treatment offered at Osmosis in Freestone. It’s a relaxing dry bath that uses fragrant cedar fiber, rice bran, and enzymes to chill you out. Another alternative treatment is the “Watsu” offered at Glen Ellen’s Gaige House Inn and described as a “gentle form of water massage done in a pool while cradled in the arms of a trained provider.” Others prefer to seep solo under the stars at Calistoga Spa Hot Springs, a resort/motel off Calistoga’s main street, that opens its four outdoor naturally heated mineral pools and its steam room to the public each evening. But the truly adventurous love to wallow in the ooze at one of Calistoga’s mudbath emporiums, such as Dr. Wilkinson’s on Lincoln Avenue, which uses volcanic ash left over from the eruption of Mt. St. Helena, mixed with the boiling mineral water from the gurgling geothermal well on the property and a bit of peat moss for texture. In addition, salt glow rubs, seaweed algae wraps, “manual lymphatic drainage” (designed to unblock lymph nodes and strengthen your puny immune system), numerous styles of massage, and many other de-stressors can be found at various day spas in the area. Big spenders may want to check out the recent multimillion-dollar renovation at Sonoma Mission Inn and Spa, Sonoma’s crown jewel, for total, unashamed indulgence. But if you’re stressed out because you’re pinching pennies, you can troll the local herb farms and retail outlets, such as Mom’s Head Gardens in Santa Rosa, Rosemary’s Garden in Sebastopol, and local bath shops, for comforting aromatic and inexpensive de-stressors you can savor in your own boudoir. A few suggestions:

Sonoma County

Alles European Day Spa 432 Orchard St., Santa Rosa. 573-3068.

Aesthetic Profiles 990 Sonoma Ave., Suite 2A, Santa Rosa. 523-0893.

Essentials Day Spa & Salon 1229 N. Dutton Ave., Suite D, Santa Rosa. 526-3766.

Florencia 26 E. Washington St., Petaluma. 789-0168.

Gaige House Inn 13540 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen. 935-0237.

Mermaids 115 South Main St., Sebastopol. 823-3535.

Osmosis 209 Bohemian Hwy., Freestone. 823-8231.

Panache in the Wine Country 15500 Chalk Hill Road, Healdsburg. 433-8171.

Paradise Spa 699 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma. 775-3233.

A Simple Touch 239 Center St., Healdsburg. 433-6856.

Simply Skin 10 Fourth St., Suite 104, Santa Rosa. 569-7546.

Sonoma Mission Inn and Spa 18140 Sonoma Hwy., Boyes Hot Springs. 938-9000.

Sonoma Spa 457 First St. W., Sonoma. 939-8770.

Spa off the Plaza 706 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg. 431-7938.

Therapeutic Massage and Facial Center 101 Golf Course Drive, Rohnert Park. 584-0433.

Wine Country Spa 1601 Terrace Way, Santa Rosa. 545-8390.

Bath Factory 481 First St. W., Sonoma. 935-5903.

Hampton Court Essential Luxuries 631 Fourth St., Santa Rosa. 578-9416.

Mom’s Head Gardens 4153 Langner Ave., Santa Rosa. 585-8575.

Rosemary’s Garden 132 N. Main, Sebastopol. 829-2539.

Soft Shell 40 Kentucky St., Petaluma. 773-4950.

Sonoma County Bathworks 6 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma (763-2724); 2320 Magowan Drive, Santa Rosa (526-7627).

Napa County

Auberge du Soleil 180 Rutherford Road., Rutherford. 967-9990.

Calistoga Oasis Spa 1300 Washington St., Calistoga. 942-2122.

Calistoga Village Inn and Spa 1880 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga. 942-0991.

Emerald 1523 Main St., Napa. 226-2700.

Eurospa 1202 Pine St., Calistoga. 942-6829.

Health Spa of Napa Valley 1030 Main St., St. Helena. 967-8800.

Lavender Hill Spa 1015 Foothill Blvd. (Hwy. 29), Calistoga. 942-4495.

Lincoln Avenue Spa 1339 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga. 942-5296.

Meadowood 900 Meadowood Lane, St. Helena. 963-3646.

Mount View Spa 1457 Lincoln Ave. Calistoga, 942-5789.

Oasis Spa 1300 Washington St., Calistoga. 942-2122.

Calistoga Spa Hot Springs 1006 Washington St., Calistoga. 942-6269.

Doctor Wilkinson’s Hot Springs 1507 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga. 942-4102.

Lincoln Avenue Spa 1339 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga. 942-5296.

Nance’s Hot Springs 1614 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga. 942-6211.

Roman Spa Hot Springs Resort 1300 Washington St., Calistoga. 942-4441.

White Sulphur Springs Spa 3100 White Sulphur Springs Road, St. Helena. 963-8588.

Calla Lily 1222 Main St., St. Helena. 944 1540.

Deva 1213 Coombs St,, Napa. 224-1397.

Free Time 1348 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga. 942-0210.

Heaven and Earth 1317 Main St., St. Helena. 963-1124.

From the July 20-26, 2000 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Activist Organizations

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Body Politic

Talking about politics today makes most people angry. But anger is an emotion that burns out fast. These days, a pissed-off scowl is apt to turn, rather quickly, into a cynical smirk–cynicism being the default spirit of the age. That’s fine, to a point, when it comes to the art and practice of citizenship, where a jaded eye is preferable to slack-jawed gullibility. But cynicism can cut the legs out from under the desire to make change. And when a citizenry is thus debilitated, that’s guaranteed to mean more stuff to be cynical about. None of us should worry too much about losing our edge; the power elite are bound to continue with their parade of greed, corruption, and ineptitude. But those who want to find a way into public life in the North Bay are likely to see their anger morph into something more useful, politically speaking. There are scores of activist organizations throughout the region working to change this corner of the world. The list below is partial.

Sonoma County

The Peace and Justice Center of Sonoma County (540 Pacific Ave., Santa Rosa; 575-8902) serves as a coordinating body for numerous local groups and also sponsors events and programs.

The Environmental Center of Sonoma County (312 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa), operated by the Sonoma County Conservation Council, is a federation of 20 key conservation and environmental groups–including Sonoma County Conservation Action, the county’s largest enviro group–offering programs and information.

The local chapter of the National Organization for Women meets on the third Monday of every month, from 7 to 9 p.m., to discuss women’s issues, bend an ear to guest speakers, and determine how best to wield its influence to improve conditions for women everywhere. These are scent-free events, at the Volunteer Center 153 Stony Circle, Suite 100, Santa Rosa; 523-9533..

By mobilizing communities, raising awareness of labor issues and helping to support striking workers, the North Bay AFL-CIO Labor Council (1700 Corby Ave., Santa Rosa; 545-6970) acts as a political and monetary lifeline for several local unions in the region.

The group Parents, Families and Friends of Lesbians and Gays (say “P-Flag”) offers support for families and friends of lesbian and gay teens and adults (431-8364).

For the past couple of years, Petaluma Progressives (763-1532) has worked to nurture an increasingly left-leaning community through lectures, rallies, and an impressive weekly independent film series.

The Town Hall Coalition (P.O. Box 1005, Occidental; 874-9110) is tackling the expansion of vineyards in Sonoma County, along with a slew of related topics, including growing pesticide use. Its members are prime movers in the contentious battle over preservation of the county’s rural heritage. And they’re well-organized, politically savvy, highly motivated, and–it appears–fearless in their quest to quench the wine industry’s thirst for power.

Napa County

In a region that has unprecedented growth in its vineyards, the United Farm Workers of America (1606 Main St., Napa; 253-1398) is gaining political ground.

Friends of the Napa River (68 Coombs St., Napa; 254-8520) is making waves in a county that is showing it has respect for natural resources.

From the July 20-26, 2000 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

La Charcuterie

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Something to smile about: La Charcuterie chef/owner Patrick Martin has gained national recognition for his cozy cuisine.

Photograph by Michael Amsler

Hog Heaven

Charcuterie chef Patrick Martin is as happy as a pig in a poke

By Marina Wolf

WHEN PATRICK Martin arrived in New York City from France 16 years ago, he had no job, no papers, and such a jumbled command of English that he had to watch Sesame Street to catch up. Such humble beginnings made his recent visit to the Big Apple that much more triumphant, when he took the Mediterranean French food and casual California style of Restaurant Charcuterie to a demonstration dinner earlier this year at the prestigious James Beard House.

In the restaurant business, that gig is like playing Carnegie Hall.

With the help of his family–wife Robin, 19-year-old Jake, and 13-year-old Amanda–Martin pulled it off so well that the Food Network is considering basing a series around him and his family. But in spite of the praise and media attention, Martin remains matter-of-fact. “You have to be careful, not to let it get to your head too much. I mean, it’s neat, it’s a beautiful experience. But it doesn’t pay the bills, you know,” he adds in a sly whisper, making a gesture at the cozy Healdsburg dining room.

“You have to make sure you keep this guy going.”

His attention to the restaurant business comes no doubt in part from his mother and stepfather, who ran a cafe near Lyons in southern France. But it also is the natural legacy of a long life in restaurants and the total immersion he got at the beginning, as a 14-year-old in culinary vocational school. There were business and general-ed classes in the morning, and then cooking and waiting tables in the afternoon. At the end of the first year, Martin chose cooking. After graduation, he worked his way through several restaurants over a few years, but actually the decision was a tough one. “Cooks there work double shift, all the time. You don’t make any money. Here they say they don’t make anything, but in France they make zero. . . You really have no life, and it gets to you fast.” Martin shakes his head expressively. “I almost lost my love for cooking in France.”

FOR A CHANGE, the young Martin waited on tables the year before he left France, which was almost as bad: staff inspections, no tips, and rising as early as the chefs to do laundry and floors. He went on and upward to cook positions in London, New York City, and San Francisco, before settling in Sonoma County in 1995. But he’s retained a certain perspective that his American-trained colleagues just don’t have, and maybe should.

“I tell my staff not to complain,” he says, smiling indulgently at a waitress tending the last lunch customer. “I’ve worked in kitchens where we weren’t allowed to speak. The chef will kick you in the ass or punch you. I’ve never been in the army, but I imagine it’s the same kind of treatment.” Martin and his fellow students worked in fluorescent-lit basements–“You go outside, you cannot see in the sunlight for five minutes”–and lived in a land of minute, constant tortures.

“I remembered doing the coppers. I washed the pots at the end of the shift,” he says. “I made my own paste out of vinegar, rock salt, flour, and sawdust. Oh, my god, we felt it in every cut. But we could not complain. We just did it.

“It’s funny to think about those things now,” he continues in a more serious tone. “I think it’s made me a better person. People tell me I’m different from other French chefs. But I saw these things so often, people yelling and making other people cry, and it doesn’t help. I saw it so many times, it happened to me so often, that I don’t want to do it to anybody else.”

Instead, Martin focuses on enjoying his freedom as a chef-owner. “My favorite part of the job is to make all the decisions, to be able to do what I want. Because for so many years I couldn’t. I was in the kitchen, and even though I was doing all the cooking, the chef takes all the credit.”

NOW MARTIN can step out of the kitchen and meet his customers anytime. He also enjoys this, a chance to get out of what a real-estate agent would call a “cozy” kitchen and just chat. Some are local winemakers, whose bottles rest in the head-high wine rack. Others are just regulars, some of whom have been coming to Restaurant Charcuterie for longer than Martin has owned it.

The pine-tabled room, with its droll pig decor, encourages intimacy, a match to the small-town feeling that Martin cherishes so much in his restaurant. But he is careful not to get too casual. Though he’s worked the toughest restaurant cities in the world, he says, Healdsburg is the most challenging place to be a chef.

“Here people are really sophisticated. They have a palate. They train themselves with the wine,” says Martin. “Also they will tell you what is good or bad. In New York or San Francisco you really don’t give a damn what they think, because you know tomorrow you’re going to have another thousand people walk by your restaurant.”

When Martin mentioned his guests’ candor to a colleague this last visit to New York, the chef (who shall, but probably shouldn’t, remain anonymous) said that if one of his customers complained too vigorously, they’d get kicked out of the restaurant. “That’s the difference between a small village and big city,” Martin says, grinning. “We could never get away with that.”

Poached Pear in Saffron with Mascarpone Cheese, Honey, and Pink Pepper Cookies

The title says it all, but you have to cook it to get the full sensory impact of this aromatic dish, which helped land Patrick Martin the Beard House gig.

10 cups water 4 cups sugar 2 cinnamon sticks 6 whole star anise pods 1 tbsp. saffron 6 Anjou pears, peeled 1/2 cup brandy

Bring water, sugar, cinnamon, star anise, and saffron to boil, and boil for 10 minutes. Add pears, bring back to boil, then simmer for 20 minutes (test doneness with toothpick, should be tender when pierced). Remove pears from syrup to cooling rack. Add brandy to syrup and simmer until syrup is reduced by half.

2 cups mascarpone cheese 1/2 tbsp. orange honey 1/4 cup cream

Mix cheese and honey. Add cream until right consistency (slightly runny).

Pink pepper cookies:

1/2 cup butter 1 cup sugar 1 cup flour 1 tsp. baking powder 1 1/2 tsp. crushed pink peppercorns Whole pink peppercorns

Cream butter and sugar together. Gradually add flour and baking powder. Blend in crushed pepper. Work dough with hands to form a smooth ball. Pinch off 1-inch pieces of dough and roll into balls. Arrange balls of dough a little apart on an ungreased cookie sheet. Dip bottom of a glass in sugar and flatten ball. Press whole pink peppercorn in center of each cookie. Bake at 300 degrees, 20-30 minutes. Cool on rack.

When pears are cool, core and quarter them, and place four quarters on each plate. Pour a little syrup over and top with cheese mixture. Then, without touching syrup, arrange 4 cookies on each plate.

From the July 20-26, 2000 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Health Resources

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You know the routine. You feel like hell. Go the doctor. Hand over the insurance card. Head for the examination room. Get all of five minutes to state your case because the less time spent on your problems, the more money in the doctor’s pocket–at Kaiser Permanente the doctors actually have to punch a clock to show that they haven’t spent too much time on your examination. You’re sent packing, feeling unsatisfied, burned even by this cavalier attitude that has made health care the kind of service you used to get at a five-and-dime store. But not everyone in the health care is a slacker. The good folks at the Petaluma Health Care District have created the Redwood Health Library (314 Western St., Petaluma; 778-9114), a neat, efficiently organized library that is a medical researcher’s dream–and it’s open three days a week to the public. Designed for regular people who want as much information as possible about any particular malady or health issue, this unique resource library was established four years ago. The library contains books, medical texts, health newsletters, medical journals, clipping files, audio/video cassettes, computerized national health databases, and a CD-ROM database. Oh, yeah, a helpful staff will dote over your every need. Now that’s health care! Here are some other local resources that will help you take your health into your own hands:

Sonoma County

Adult Children of Alcoholics Anonymous Elim Lutheran Church, Baker and Stanley streets, Petaluma; and First United Methodist Church, 1551 Montgomery Ave., Santa Rosa. 544-2130.

Alzheimer’s Association Oakmont Gardens, Retirement Community Center, 301 White Oak Drive, Santa Rosa. 573-1210.

Alzheimer’s Support Burbank Heights Senior Housing Community Center, 777 Bodega Hwy., Sebastopol. 823-9004.

Basic Buddhism and Psycho-spiritual Healing Clinic 823-8700.

Better Breathers. 527-5864.

Diabetes Society 2777 Cleveland Ave., Suite 103, Santa Rosa. 578-0887.

Dual Recovery (self-help anonymous group for people facing mental or emotional illness combined with chemical or alcohol addiction), 420 E. Cotati Ave., Cotati. 795-4336.

Lovin’ Life, Livin’ Love (helping people going through the cancer experience), 110 Lynch Creek Way, Petaluma. 775-4771.

Lupus Support Group Sutter Women’s Health Resource Center, 625 Steele Lane, Santa Rosa. 538-1489.

Macular Degeneration Support Group Senior Center, 6800 Hunter Drive, Suite A, Rohnert Park. 585-7502.

Mended Hearts (heart health),. Kaiser Hospital, Building LL, Conference Rooms H-1 and H-2, 401 Bicentennial Way, Santa Rosa. 537-0630.

Moderate Drinking (ongoing workshop on reducing alcohol consumption and preventing alcohol abuse), Saturdays in Santa Rosa and Petaluma. 539-5465.

Parkinson’s Support, YMCA, 1111 College Ave., Santa Rosa. 546-8439.

Quit Smoking (support and tools to quit smoking for good, sponsored by the American Lung Association of the Redwood Empire), 527-5864.

Red Cross (emergency first-aid and adult CPR certification courses, as well as child-care and pet first-aid courses). 465 Tesconi Circle #11, Santa Rosa. 577-7611.

Redwood Health Library 314 Western Ave., Petaluma. 778-9114.

Relationships and HIV 579-5822.

Sexual-Assault Support Group 545-7270; 24-hour hotline, 545-7273.

Share and Care (support for caregivers of patients with dementia), Catholic Charities, 2323 Montgomery Drive, Santa Rosa. 565-4938.

Sweet Peas (women-only diabetes group), Diabetes Society, 2777 Cleveland Ave., Suite 101, Santa Rosa. 578-0887.

Tayu Meditation Center 829-9579.

Transitions (men’s discussions on identity and role changes associated with aging). Chanate Hall, 3333 Chanate Road, Santa Rosa. 565-4938.

Ventures (support group for senior women dealing with depression), Chanate Hall, 3333 Chanate Road, Santa Rosa. 565-4938.

Widows and Widowers (peer counseling groups for newly bereaved seniors), 751 Lombardi Court, Santa Rosa. 545-4551.

Women in Transition (support group covers various life changes for seniors). 565-4938.

Yoga Studio 155A Kentucky St., Petaluma. 765-1367.

Zen Buddhism Sonoma Mountain Zen Center, 6367 Sonoma Mt. Road, Santa Rosa. 545-8105.

Napa County

Age-Related Self-Help 224-1558.

Alopecia Areata Support 256-0577.

Arthritis Exercise Group 967-5715.

Arthritis Support 1299 Pine St., Napa. 963-1912.

Candida-Related Illnesses Support 1299 Pine St., Napa. 963-1912.

Chronic Pain Management Support 1524 Jefferson St., Napa. 253-2799.

Epilepsy Support 1000 Trancas St., Napa, 800/632-3532.

Free Health Assessments 253-9000.

Hepatitis C Support 1299 Pine St., Napa. 963-1912.

HIV Network 257-5955.

Kick-Butt Cancer Support 226-1667.

Napa Valley AIDS Project 258-AIDS.

Spinal Cord Injury Support 800/528-7704.

United Ostomy Association 226-3436.

From the July 20-26, 2000 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Family Services and Programs

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They say kids don’t come with an owner’s manual. Fortunately, the California Parenting Institute (3650 Standish Ave., Santa Rosa; 585-6108) is here to help. This welcome community resource offers everything from support programs for first-time parents (including special help for dads) to parent education consultations for help with dealing with anger, self-esteem, and other issues. Included are affordable classes on disciplining your toddlers; parenting your teen; helping parents of special-needs children; and coping as a single parent. In addition to countywide classes, CPI operates a family resource center in southwest Santa Rosa. No, they won’t hand you an operating manual as the nurse wheels you out of the hospital doors, but don’t let that stop you from obtaining the specialized skills you need to thrive as a parent. Here are a handful of other helpful family services and programs:

Sonoma County

Association for Children for Enforcement of Support (assists parents not receiving entitled support). 546-2380.

Associates for Youth Development 7345 Burton Ave., Rohnert Park. 793-9030, ext. 2.

CHAD (information and support group for adults and children with attention deficit disorder), Veterans Bldg., 1351 Maple St, Santa Rosa. 765-4863.

Children with Cancer St. Andrew Presbyterian Church, 16290 Arnold Drive, Sonoma. 258-3585.

Early Works Learning Tools 141 Kentucky St., Petaluma. 765-1993.

Fab Kids (activities for children with life-threatening illnesses), Burke’s Canoe Trips, Mirabel and River roads, Forestville. 887-2222.

Grieving for Parents 735 Broadway, Sonoma. 935-7504.

Jungle Vibes 163 Kentucky St., Petaluma. 762-6583.

Kid Street Learning Center 54 W. Sixth St., Santa Rosa. 525-9223.

Kindergym (call for times and locations). 585-6108.

La Leche League Women’s Health Resource Center­Sutter Medical Center of Santa Rosa, 625 Steele Lane, Santa Rosa. 525-8188.

MOPS (mothers of preschoolers), Petaluma Valley Baptist Church, 580 Sonoma Mtn. Pkwy., Petaluma. 763-2277.

Mothers’ Club Finley Community Center, Cypress Room, 2060 W. College Ave., Santa Rosa. 525-5902.

Parenting Teens in the New Millennium 2403 Professional Drive, Santa Rosa. 544-3295.

Parents Without Partners (call for information). 523-8491.

Partners for Adoption 4527 Montgomery Drive, Suite A, Santa Rosa. 539-9068.

Petaluma School District (offers free monthly parenting classes). 778-4813.

Polly Klaas Foundation 800/587-4357.

Positive Images (call for location and details). 579-4947.

Sonoma County Legal Aid Family Law Workshops Old Courthouse Square, Suite 100, Santa Rosa. 542-1290.

Teen Clinic 51 Lombardi Court, Santa Rosa. 544-7526.

WIC Supplemental Nutrition Program 431-0831 or 565-6690.

Women’s Health and Birth Center 583 Summerfield Road, Santa Rosa. 539-1544.

Napa County

Community Resources for Children 253-0376.

Healthy Moms and Babies 252-6541.

La Leche League 252-8242.

Padres Efectivos (effective parents), 1299 Pine St., Napa. 693-1912.

WIC Supplemental Nutrition Program 253-4853.

From the July 20-26, 2000 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Roland Alphonso

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Sax appeal: Roland Alphonso.

Hot Shot

New CD showcases ska legend

By Greg Cahill

Roland Something Special: Ska Hot Shots Heart Beat

IT AIN’T SUMMER without ska. And this soulful 20-track collection goes down real smooth, showcasing one of the most influential–and underrated–musicians ever to swing and sway on the island of Jamaica. Saxophonist Roland Alphonso was a founding member of the Skatalites, the legendary Studio One band that helped define the upbeat dance music that served as a precursor to rock steady and reggae. Alphonso, who died two years ago after suffering a stroke onstage in Los Angeles, was a trained musician who earned the nickname The Chief Musician and tutored the then up-and-coming Bob Marley and the Wailers (Alphonso taught them how to structure songs and count beats), among other reggae greats. Born in Havana of a Cuban father and a Jamaican father, Alphonso landed on the mean streets of Kingston at age 5. Five years later, he started playing drums and eventually switched to saxophone. In the ’50s, he joined the Blu-Flame Orchestra, which also featured future Skatalites Tommy McCook and Don Drummond. By 1960, Alphonso and his bandmates were well-versed in big-band jazz and American R&B and well on their way to exporting the distinctive brand of contagious Jamaican R&B known as ska. This CD spans eight formative years, from the 1960 single “Four Corners,” originally credited to Roland Alphonso & the Alley Cats, to the 1968 rock steady hit “Jah Shakey.” The session list reads like a veritable Who’s Who of Ska and Reggae: vocalist Rita Marley (wife of Bob Marley), producer Clement Dodd, vocalist Lee Perry (who went on to become one of the island’s most important dub producers), pioneering ska guitarist Ernest Ranglin, and many more. A soulful groove.

Christy McWilson The Lucky One Hightone

“SECURE IN MY ROLE of ‘band member,’ one-fifth of the roots-rock band the Picketts for the past 10 years, I always thought I’d step out in front of a firing squad before I’d step out on my own as a solo artist,” singer/songwriter Christy McWilson writes in her press bio. Luckily, producer Dave Alvin saw it differently. The Picketts were a cult fave among early Americana fans–steeped in Stone-influenced honky-tonk and a dusty Bakersfield-style country. The band wowed fans with incendiary covers of the Clash and Yoko Ono. On this stunning release McWilson delivers plenty of bad-girl growl on a handful of well-crafted originals and a hauntingly beautiful cover of Brian Wilson’s beautiful “‘Til I Die.” And she gets help from an impressive pack of friends, including Alvin, Peter Buck and Mike Mills of R.E.M., Rhett Miller of the Old 97’s, Greg Leisz of Grant Lee Buffalo, and singer Syd Straw. One of the most impressive debuts this year–promise aplenty.

Spin du Jour

Louis Armstrong & his All-Stars Satch Plays Fats: A Tribute to the Immortal Fats Waller Columbia/Legacy

HAVING SCREWED UP the first digital remastering of this classic, the folks at Legacy got it right on this low-priced 24-bit Centennial Edition (actually Armstrong’s 100th birthday anniversary is next year), even tossing in 11 bonus tracks. Trumpet master and scat-singing innovator Armstrong was already an established star when he cut this 1955 gem, hot on the heels of his acclaimed Louis Armstrong Plays W. C. Handy. Velma Middleton provides vocals on three tracks–not distinctive, but the perfect foil for the gregarious Armstrong. Billy Kyle delivers the goods on Waller’s stride-style piano parts. Trombonist Trummy Young (what a knock-out!), clarinetist Barney Bigard, bassist Arvell Shaw, and drum-mer Barrett Deems round out this super lineup. Their swinging New Orleans stomp on the lead track, “Honeysuckle Rose,” is worth the price of admission alone. A must-have recording for any serious jazz lover.

From the July 20-26, 2000 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

John Doe

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L.A. punker John Doe returns with an introspective look at life

By Greg Cahill

JOHN DOE doesn’t mince words. Ask the seminal L.A. punker–one of the most influential figures in American alternative music–why he’s quit writing gritty urban rock for the trailblazing L.A. punk band X after nearly 20 years, and the iconoclastic singer/ songwriter cuts right to the bone. “I guess that I’m just not into punk rock or at least what people’s expectations of that would be,” he says dryly, during a phone interview from his Southern California home. “What people would want to hear from a new X record would be like old X records, and I don’t like that kind of stuff anymore.”

After a two-year hiatus from the recording scene, Doe is back with a strong new solo disc, an upcoming tour that brings him this week to the Old Vic in Santa Rosa, and a decidedly mature outlook on life, love, and why he doesn’t play country music anymore.

Married and raising three daughters in a home decorated with modern art, Beanie Babies, and religious icons, Doe, 46, balks at calling himself domesticated, though the sound of clattering dishes, children’s laughter, and caged songbirds punctuate the phone call. “I think that when you get older you’re able to live in the moment a little bit more successfully, so you’re not always thinking about what you should be doing; you can just enjoy what you’re doing at the time,” he says philosophically, adding that he stayed home for the past couple of years to raise the kids while his wife, Gigi, finished college.

“You know, when you’re older, you don’t put as much pressure on yourself to be someplace else, although there are times when your career steals some precious time away from it. But you have to make those decisions.”

Returning to the road for the first extended tour in several years, Doe plans to find out what role touring holds at this stage in his life.

The new CD, Freedom Is . . . (SpinArt), is his best work since 1990’s solo debut Meet John Doe (Geffen), with its punk-driven C&W-tinged fatalism. It’s also his first full-length solo album in five years. Co-produced by Doe and Dave Way (Macy Gray, Christina Aguilera), the disc features an all-star cast of players, including ex-wife and X singer Exene Cervenka (who collaborates on one song), guitarist Mike Ward of the Wallflowers, and guitarist Smokey Hormel and drummer Joey Waronker of the Beck band.

The material is alternately snarling and subdued, a far more introspective feel overall than past solo efforts. “Since I don’t live in the city anymore, and haven’t for several years, the subject matter [of my songs] has become more internal–more about romance and relationships and what it takes to hold those all together,” Doe explains. “It’s less cinematic, but just as poetic.

“You know, songs about love, longing, and death–not a whole lotta sex, but I guess that’s implied.”

CONSPICUOUSLY absent is Doe’s past flirtation with country music–though there is one wryly titled track, “Ultimately Yrs. (Pretty Western, I’m Sorry).” While Doe slips easily into the resurgent singer/songwriter idiom, he doesn’t relate to the current alt-country craze that X helped spawn in 1983 with their rootsy More Fun in the New World and the 1985 punked-up country spinoff project the Knitters, featuring guitarist Dave Alvin of the Blasters.

It’s a side of Doe from which he’s been steadily retreated in recent years. “X definitely influenced some people, but I think my new stuff has much more in common with the Beatles or the Replacements than Buck Owens or George Jones,” he says. “I just grew really tired of country music. I mean, new country is just pop music. There’s not much difference between Shania Twain and Whitney Houston–just the rhythm section is different. Old country I could only listen to for so long. I got what I could get out of it and moved on.

“Besides, it’s not really me–it’s really just a facade. I didn’t grow up in the South. I think you have to be true to yourself.”

He now views the trendy Americana movement as “an honest response to what was coming out of the Seattle grunge scene,” and still admires Uncle Tupelo, Wilco, the Old 97s, and a handful of other alt-country bands. “But for the most part, it was just something new to write about–the press is always looking for a new angle,” he adds. “There’s nothing wrong with that. It happens. But I don’t align myself with that.”

DOE IS most passionate when talking about his film career. He portrays the sheriff on the WB network paranormal-teen series Roswell and is a veteran of 20 films, including Oliver Stone’s Salvador, the Jerry Lee Lewis bio-pic Great Balls of Fire, Road House, and Georgia.

His three daughters–ages 8, 9, and 12–acted in Doe’s most recent film, director Alison Anders’ 1999 Sugar Town, having appeared in their father’s first film, Border Radio.

“That was about two lifetimes ago,” says Doe.

“Acting is a priority, unless I’m releasing a record, like now, in which case it becomes secondary,” he continues. “But I can act longer than I can rock ‘n’ roll. There are so many records that come out every year that eventually you’re replaced. So film is just another creative outlet and one that I find more personally satisfying.

“With records, it’s more a part of your life–there’s much more of a personal investment. I suppose that if the film was your own project, then you might not feel that way, but I haven’t gotten to that point yet.”

He recently completed another film role, in director Todd Stevens’ still unreleased indie film Gypsy 83, that allowed him to combine all the aspects of his life–family man, musician, and actor. “I play the dad–the musician dad,” he adds with a laugh. “It’s about a girl who plays my daughter and wants to be Stevie Nicks, and she wants to be out of Sandusky, Ohio. Go figure!

“I did watch some Stevie Nicks videos to prepare for the role. God, was she high! Scary.”

Despite his ongoing film career, music clearly still holds a special place in Doe’s creative makeup. “It’s how I deal with all my confusion about life,” he says. “I think that you have to get to a point at which things are falling apart before you can invest enough in a song to make it worth listening to.”

And he hopes fans will find it worth listening to.

“I had this realization from people who would approach me on the street and say, ‘Oh, my God, your music with X meant so much to me.’ We’d sort of talk for a while and then I’d say, ‘You know, I have this new record.’ And they’d say, ‘Oh . . . yeah . . . I’ll have to check that out.’ Total lip service. It kind of amazes me that they would think, ‘That was then, and there isn’t anything he could do now that would even come close to that.’

“I just wish that people would give it a chance. You know: Wow, this guy was good before, maybe he’s speaking to me as an adult now, in a different way and with more experience and a different slant. One of the down sides of rock music is that you tend to move on. But you should check back in once in a while to see where those people that you liked before have gone.”

The John Doe Thing performs an acoustic set Saturday, July 22, at 10 p.m. Joneh Metrange and Gabe Meline open the show. The Old Vic, 731 Fourth St., Santa Rosa. $10. 571-7555.

From the July 20-26, 2000 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

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