Gaytán

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Mind Food

Agustín Gaytán puts a new twist on old Mexican favorites

By Marina Wolf

SOME PEOPLE don’t remember anything from their childhoods. Agustín Gaytán remembers everything, and most of it revolves around food. Tamale-making parties for holidays. Moles, the complex sauces ground and mixed by hand in a stone motate. Giant sweet fritters called bu–elos, made in mountains for Christmas and Día de los Muertos; Gaytán remembers a circle of family and friends sitting around and stretching balls of the soft, elastic dough over their knees until the disks were enormous, and then throwing them into a copper vat filled with boiling oil.

Gaytán does his best to pass along the traditions to his classes at Ramekins Sonoma Valley Culinary School, where he is essentially the Mexican expert-in-residence.

Nowadays the dark-eyed, energetic young chef is playing with more exotic ingredients, making things like pesto and smoked chicken tamales. His mother might not recognize what Gaytán calls tamales nuevo, but to Gaytán, they are simply the newest evolution of an age-old cuisine that has survived–and thrived on–countless infusions of foreign influence.

“The cookbooks in Mexico from the 1800s reflect an amazing combination of cultures,” he says, leaning forward excitedly from his perch on a friend’s plush sofa in Petaluma. “It was already basically fusion cookery: European preparations, with lots of chiles.”

Gaytán’s earlier food experiences were somewhat less experimental. San Miguel de Allende, the historic central Mexican city where Gaytán was born and raised, has a large American community. But his mother’s foods were strictly Mexican, so the few times he ate American food at American friends’ homes, Gaytán was a bit taken aback: “The food suddenly wasn’t as exciting and vibrant.”

And when he moved north to Texas in 1986, at age 24, he was even more confused by the food at the restaurant where he found his first American job, as a busboy. On the menu it was called “home cooking,” but with mostly black staff, it was basically soul food. “I didn’t know the difference,” Gaytán says with a laugh. “I thought it was just American food.”

Eventually Gaytán would learn the sad truth, but for the moment he was enchanted by the abundance and flavorfulness of the food. Eventually he became the baker there, making the restaurant’s breads and pies “all from scratcchh,” he says, savoring the word. Pies he had met before, as pays in Spanish, but never the varieties that he was called on to make here: peach, apricot, apple, and the cream pie, in chocolate, coconut, and peanut butter.

IN SPITE OF THIS exciting introduction to the American food industry, Gaytán was initially unswayed: he wanted to go to college and study anthropology. But when he moved to California some 10 years ago, an American acquaintance from San Miguel invited him to form a catering and restaurant partnership called Dos Burros.

It was at the Oakland eatery in 1990 that Gaytán found his second calling: teaching. What began as informal classes grew to include workshops at cooking schools all over California, Texas, and Colorado, and even in New England. And though Mexican food had become a familiar taste to the American palate by then, Gaytán found that many people still needed pointers.

“Most people here think Mexican food is all No. 4 combination: refried beans and rice, chile relleno, and enchilada on the side,” he says with an expressive twitch at the corner of a gentle smile. “But even among the people who are more educated about food, there is still a resistance that clearly comes from ignorance. People are not willing to accept that Mexican food is as well developed and as refined as any other cuisine.”

Some of this reluctance is based on run-of-the-mill racism, something that Gaytán has often experienced in the culinary world. “I always have to work twice as hard to get accepted as a teacher at different cooking schools,” he says. “If I was a white man, I would be accepted more easily, even though I am teaching my own country’s cuisine.”

But he is willing to excuse some of the prejudice as basic culinary ignorance. Gaytán’s students often are simply unaware of what salsas go well with what meats, or what cheeses should be added to what dishes for the most authentic effect. This is no simple thing, for “Mexican” food is indeed as diverse as American regional foods, if not more so. Even for Gaytán, the regional variations were strange and fascinating, especially at the beginning. “Moving from region to region is like going from country to country,” he says.

HIS NATIVE STATE of Guanajuato boasts a proud assortment of chiles, but Gaytán found a selection to rival it in Oaxaca. There he also found seafood being used in ways that Americans might consider strange, if not downright extravagant. Oysters and clams make regular appearances in tamales. There was even a tamal made with a whole, unshelled lobster, surrounded by masa dough that would soak up the juices after the tamal had been baked and the lobster cracked open.

Elsewhere Gaytán found regions that–gasp!–just don’t use chiles that much. In Yucatán, for example, the favored flavor base is recado, a paste made of onion, garlic, and spices. Recado rojo (red recado) gets its distinctive color from achiote, or annatto seed, while recado de bistec is made olive-green with cumin, oregano, and chiles, and recado de negro contains ingredients that have been deliberately and deliciously burnt black.

But before they get to recado and lobster tamales, some folks just have to learn where to shop. To meet this need, Gaytán has created a cook’s tour of San Francisco’s Mission District, in which he leads groups of students, senior citizens, or just plain curious gourmets through the produce markets, panaderias, and carnicerias of that predominately Latin American neighborhood. He realizes that the district, like many San Francisco neighborhoods, is threatened by gentrification, and he sees his popular tours as a way of asserting identity.

“I want to contribute to the stability of the Mission District as a Hispanic community,” says Gaytán. “And food, you know, is very culturally binding.”

Chiles Rellenos de Pescado en Mil Hojas (Chiles stuffed with white fish, tomatoes, and olives, then baked wrapped in puff pastry)

6 poblano chiles 1 1/2 lbs. red snapper filet 1 tsp. sea salt, approximately 1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 3 tbls. fresh lime juice 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 lbs. ripe tomatoes, grilled, peeled, and coarsely chopped 1 medium onion, coarsely chopped 3 large cloves garlic, peeled and sliced 10 large green olives, pitted and cut in half 3 tbls. large capers 2 pickled jalapeño chiles, cut into small strips 1/4 tsp. oregano 1 large bay leaf 1/2 tsp. sea salt (or to taste) 10 sheets puff pastry, store-bought, ready-made, cut to size (5×4 inches) 1 egg, lightly beaten

1. Roast chiles over a direct gas flame at medium-high heat or under a broiler. Turn chiles over from time to time until skins are blistered, about 6-7 minutes. Place chiles inside a plastic bag or a towel and allow to steam for 10-15 minutes. Peel chiles, split them, remove seeds, and place in nonmetal bowl.

2. Cut fish into 6 equal portions. Sprinkle all pieces with the salt, pepper, and lime juice. Marinate 15 minutes in a nonmetal bowl.

3. Heat oil in a 10-inch skillet and sauté onion and garlic for about 4 minutes. Add tomatoes, olives, capers, chiles, oregano, bay leaf, and salt. Cook for 15 minutes over medium heat. Cool to room temp-erature. Preheat oven to 400°.

4. Stuff each chile with fish (cut each portion of fish into smaller pieces to fit inside chiles).

5. Roll out each piece of pastry large enough to completely wrap around each chile according to size.

6. Wrap each chile and seal edges with water. Place chiles seam side down on greased baking sheet. Brush top of each chile with beaten egg and bake for about 20 minutes until golden brown. Serve hot or at room temperature with remaining tomato sauce. Serves 6.

From the September 28-October 4, 2000 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Aspartame

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Killing Me Sweetly

Is aspartame really a safe sugar substitute? If not, why is the FDA blocking the release of a better alternative?

By Bill Strubbe

EVELYN BLAKE’S downhill spiral began in 1994 when she decided to lose weight: she switched to diet sodas and began using Equal as a sugar substitute. “After about four months I began feeling nervous and uneasy,” Blake recalls. “My heart was beating so irregularly that I wondered if I was having a heart attack! Then one night I woke with this very strange feeling, like I was in a zombie state. I felt as if my tongue was swelling, my teeth clenched tight.”

Blake began to shiver, and by the time she reached her son’s room her body shook uncontrollably and she couldn’t talk. The frightening incident eventually subsided, and they decided against visiting the emergency room. “Not making any connection, I continued to use Equal in everything–coffee, bread, cereal, salad–and the seizures got worse.”

Though millions of people sip diet sodas, ingest yogurt lite, and stir the contents of those little blue packets into their coffee without noticeable side effect, Blake’s ordeal is only one of thousands of alleged aspartame-poisoning complaints registered over the last two decades. By the federal Food and Drug Administration’s own admission, 73 percent of all food complaints are aspartame-related–most commonly headaches, memory loss, depression, heart palpitations, and vision problems. Some contend that prolonged use of aspartame is the root cause of their permanent nerve damage, their brain lesions and tumors, and even the untimely deaths of family members.

“Since many consumers may never make the connection between their maladies and aspartame intake, conceivably those complaints are only the tip of the iceberg,” says Betty Martini, who heads Mission Possible International, which attempts to educate the public about the dangers of aspartame.

Industry and FDA spokespersons point out that these accounts are “merely anecdotal” and “unscientific,” but the sheer volume of accusations in itself should raise questions about aspartame’s approval process–the independence of industry-funded research, the ethics of the revolving door relationships between FDA officials and industry–and call for the re-examination of this chemical that is now commonly found in grocery stores, on kitchen shelves, and in children’s lunchboxes.

Sweet Nothing: Proponants of stevia, a natural sweetener, do battle with NutraSweet.

NUTRASWEET–along with Equal, Spoonful, Indulge, Equal-Measure, etc.–is a brand name for aspartame, discovered by accident in 1965 when a chemist with G. D. Searle pharmaceuticals was testing an anti-ulcer drug: he happened to lick his hand, and the rest is history. Originally approved for use in dry foods in July 1974, aspartame was put on hold several months later owing to objections filed by neuroscience researchers and consumer attorneys.

When ingested, NutraSweet breaks down into aspartic acid, a chemical found in the brain; phenylalanine, an amino acid; and methanol (wood alcohol), which converts to formaldehyde, which at high levels can cause brain damage and blindness. Monsanto–the former manufacturer of NutraSweet–and the FDA argue that methanol is present in such a small amount that it poses no health risks and is harmlessly passed from the body.

They also insist that except for people with the rare disease phenylketonuria, aspartame is safe. (G. D. Searle, the original makers of NutraSweet, was bought by Monsanto in the 1980s. This past year, Monsanto sold NutraSweet to J. W. Childs and divested itself of Equal, which is now a registered trademark of Merisant Co.)

Dr. Russell L. Blaylock, professor of neurosurgery at the University of Mississippi’s medical center, explains in his book Excitotoxins: The Taste That Kills that though aspartate (and glutamate in the chemically related substance MSG) is a neurotransmitter normally found in the brain and spinal cord, when aspartate reaches certain levels it causes the death of brain neurons.

The risks to infants, children, and pregnant women are higher because the blood/brain barrier, which normally protects the brain, is not fully developed until adulthood. Dr. Blaylock and numerous other experts believe that long-term exposure to excitotoxins may play a part in diseases such as early-onset Alzheimer’s, Parkinson’s (Michael Fox, coincidentally the former spokesperson for Diet Pepsi, may be an example), lupus, brain lesions and tumors, epilepsy, memory loss, multiple sclerosis, and some hearing problems.

Dr. John Olney, a neuroscientist at Washington University Medical Center in St. Louis, who has demonstrated the harmful effects of excitotoxins and testified before Congress, believes that both glutamate and aspartate damage areas of the brain controlling endocrine functions leading to obesity.

He posits that the 30 percent increase in obesity in America in the past decade might be related to the increased use of aspartame.

“While there were a few inaccuracies [in the original safety tests], there was nothing convincing to keep aspartame off the market,” insists David Hattan, Ph.D., acting director of the FDA’s Division of Health Effects Evaluation. “The large body of animal and clinical research carried out in a controlled environment convinces me that aspartame is safe.”

But a number of his colleagues have disagreed. During a congressional investigation in 1985 to scrutinize Searle’s aspartame safety tests, Dr. Jacqueline Verrett, a former FDA toxicologist and FDA task force member, testified that the tests were a “disaster” and should have been “thrown out.” Dr. Marvin Legator, professor of environmental toxicology at the University of Texas, characterized them as “scientifically irresponsible and disgraceful” and said, “I’ve never seen anything as bad as Searle’s.”

Because of FDA budget limitations, it is standard procedure for the bulk of initial safety tests to be financed, designed, and carried out by the company with a vested interest in the product. The reliability of their results is called into question when 74 out of 74 industry-sponsored articles attested to aspartame’s safety, while 84 out of 91 of the nonindustry-sponsored articles identified problems with the chemical.

“I’ll admit there’s validity to these concerns, but it’s not unusual for industry to fund studies, because they’re expensive–and who else will?” counters a spokeswoman at Merisant Co. “It’s a disservice to the fine scientists involved whose reputations are besmirched by aspartame detractors.”

AND WHAT’S to keep adverse industry test results from disappearing altogether? According to a reliable source, who chose to remain unnamed but has signed a sworn affidavit, Searle in the early 1980s conducted aspartame research in five communities in Central and South America; the groups were told they were ingesting a papaya extract.

By the end of these 18-month studies, the source recalls from translating the reports from Spanish into English that many subjects experienced grand mal seizures and damage to the central nervous system, causing muscular and neural instability, hemorrhaging, brain tumors, and other maladies.

“When I finished the project, I was told to destroy all my records and copies. If those studies had reached the FDA, there’s no way they could have approved aspartame,” the source says.

“Imagine my surprise when I found out soon after that aspartame is being consumed en masse! I urged my family and everyone I knew not to use anything containing aspartame because, as I said, ‘it would make their brains into mush.’ ”

The late Dr. M. Adrian Gross, former senior FDA toxicologist, stated in his testimony before Congress, “Beyond a shadow of a doubt, aspartame triggers brain tumors,” and “therefore by allowing aspartame to be placed on the market, the FDA has violated the Delaney Amendment,” which makes it illegal to allow any residues of cancer-causing chemicals in foods. His last words to Congress were: “And if the FDA itself elects to violate the law, who is left to protect the health of the public?”

The cancer-causing agent referred to above is diketopiperazine, or DKP. So concerned was Searle about toxic DKP that it’s mentioned several times in an early 1970 internal memo distributed by Herbert Helling: “My prime concern at this time is with the production of DKP and our lack of complete toxicological data on DKP if [aspartame’s chemical code broke down] completely to DKP. We then must consider how much DKP could be formed from the time the system is converted to a wet system to the time of consumption allowing for maximum likely abuse.”

“SOUNDS LIKE the tobacco fraud all over again. But this time it’s the drug industry, and it’s big,” says former U.S. Department of Justice attorney Ed Johnson, who for the last 10 years has served as president and CEO of a large law firm in San Antonio. Several years ago, he was diagnosed with a pituitary adenoma and underwent two life-threatening surgeries to remove the tumor, which he believes was caused by his heavy ingestion of Diet Coke and NutraSweet.

“When the class actions [lawsuits] hit, and they will, I predict that they’ll rival the tobacco litigation we have seen in the past few years.”

Aspartame tests in the United States continued until July 18, 1981 when FDA Commissioner Dr. Arthur Hull Hayes Jr. disregarded the Food Drug and Cosmetic Act, which states that a food additive should not be approved if tests are inconclusive, overruling six of the nine scientists on two agency review panels who thought the studies of brain tumors in rats had been inadequate.

Applying an “acceptable daily intake” measure, the FDA approved the chemical for use in dry products and then raised the ADI in 1983 to enable the introduction of aspartame into beverages.

In subsequent years, $30 million to $40 million annually was pumped into advertising by NutraSweet Co. alone, and ads–featuring the likes of Bill Cosby, Raquel Welch, Joe Montana, and Geraldine Ferraro–by diet soft-drink manufacturers and other companies employing the chemical pushed that figure past $100 million a year, quickly making NutraSweet a household word.

Soon after, complaints to the FDA began rolling in: headaches, dizziness, anxiety, depression, memory loss, joint pain, vomiting, heart palpitations, slurred speech, seizures, brain tumors, comas, and even deaths attributed to aspartame.

The FDA took “some of these early reports quite seriously,” and Monsanto performed follow-up studies. But, according to the principles of science, “if test results cannot be reproduced in a controlled setting, then you cannot preclude other factors that might have caused seizure expressions,” explains Hattan at the FDA, who declares that he consumes copious amounts of aspartame with no ill effects.

“I think that many of the symptoms attributed to aspartame are actually caused by something else in the individual’s environment.”

EVELYN BLAKE’S seizures got worse, racking her body on a regular basis, sometimes twice a day. She recalls entering into a “zombie stare . . . looking but not seeing,” and feeling as if her body “were attached to an electrical current,” her heart racing.

More EKGs, EEGs, and blood tests followed, but the doctor could determine only low blood pressure and a slight thyroid problem. Meanwhile, she says, her hair started falling out by “the handful.” Temporary relief finally arrived when she visited her brother in Georgia and she skipped her “diet,” which included the use of Equal. For three weeks, she began to recover.

Upon returning home–and back to her use of Equal–the nightmare revved up again.

“I thought it might be stress from the house remodeling and other duties,” she says. “My memory was getting so bad I couldn’t remember where I was going when I got into my car. My eyesight suddenly got worse. I was afraid of being alone, never knowing when the next seizure would hit! The doctors could find nothing wrong with me.”

WITHIN SEVERAL years of aspartame’s appearance on the market, a number of FDA and government officials left their posts and took jobs closely linked to the food, beverage, and NutraSweet industries. Shortly after pushing aspartame’s approval, Dr. Arthur Hull Hayes left the FDA under a shadow of improprieties and became a consultant–at $1,000 a day–with Burston-Marsteller, Searle’s public relations firm. Wayne Pines, Hayes’ former top spokesman, previously had joined the firm.

In July 1986, Anthony Brunetti, an FDA consumer product officer who drafted the 1983 notice approving NutraSweet’s use in soft drinks, joined the Soft Drink Association as a science adviser.

In the late 1970s, Samuel Skinner and William Conlon, two senior Justice Department prosecutors investigating criminal allegations against G. D. Searle & Co. for falsifying NutraSweet safety-test results, later joined the law firm of Sidley & Austin, which represented Searle during the lengthy investigation. Skinner, who knew of the statute-of-limitations deadline, delayed pursuing prosecution, thus placing Searle out of reach. He subsequently defected to Sidley & Austin in July 1977.

“The aspartame manufacturer has a lot of political influence, and when the FDA director refused to allow aspartame on the market, he was replaced by one who would, and did,” says attorney Ed Johnson, former assistant U.S. attorney under William S. Sessions (who went on to become the head of the FBI).

“Though it’s against ethics laws for an FDA official to sit in on any action regarding a firm with which they had any prior relationship,” explains former FDA investigator Arthur Evangelista, “there is nothing to stop federal officials from being influenced with promises of a position in a firm they are meant to be regulating.”

Evangelista believes that influence-peddling is rife throughout the FDA, both directly and indirectly, via government PAC monies influencing politicians, who in turn use their influence on regulatory agencies.

And the revolving door continues to spin. In 1999, Dr. Virginia Weldon, vice president for public policy at Monsanto (the former parent corporation of NutraSweet), was considered for the FDA’s commissioner post. On June 14, 1999, retiring FDA Commissioner Michael Friedman became the senior vice president for clinical affairs at Searle’s drug unit.

How can the FDA effectively safeguard the public’s health while being influenced by the corporations it is meant to regulate?

For two decades the aspartame controversy has continued to simmer, leaving respectable organizations with opposing verdicts. The American Diabetes Association, the American Academy of Pediatrics, the American Medical Association, and the Epilepsy Institute endorse aspartame as safe (though it is a matter of record that several of these organizations have received donations from NutraSweet).

But hundreds of airline pilots reporting adverse effects from aspartame, including grand mal seizures while in the cockpit, led a dozen aviation publications, including Navy Physiology, Planes & Pilot, Canadian General Aviation News, and Flying Safety, to warn pilots not to consume aspartame before or while flying.

“I am not denying these people’s symptoms,” says Hattan at the FDA, “but it is entirely possible that when patients stopped using aspartame they might also coincidentally have had remission of their symptoms.”

Both the FDA’s and NutraSweet’s categorical dismissal of the thousands of aspartame consumer complaints as coincidental, anecdotal, or unscientific has not diminished the convictions of thousands of unpaid volunteers at Aspartame Victims and Their Friends; the Aspartame Detoxification Center in Atlanta; and chapters in dozens of countries of Mission Possible International that compile aspartame-related articles and personal accounts.

As of 1987, the last year that NutraSweet publicized records, Americans consumed about 17.l million pounds of aspartame, and the number is now estimated to top 25 million pounds. Since the chemical additive is now sold in dozens of other countries, aspartame-poisoning complaints now are fielded from around the world. Those who suspect that they have any symptoms of aspartame poisoning, nutritionists say, should take the aspartame test: For one month stop using aspartame-containing products and see if your symptoms subside.

Evelyn Blake decided to try eliminating, one by one, everything she was eating, but the seizures continued.

“When I finally eliminated Equal, I never had any more attacks or seizures! Since I stopped Equal on Sept. 13, 1997, my health has slowly improved: my eyesight and memory returned, my hair quit falling out, my blood pressure is good. My heart continues with an irregular beat, which my cardiologist says only a pacemaker can correct,” Blake says.

“Because of Equal, my life for four years was one living hell. Can’t someone do something about this unregulated chemically engineered drug called Equal/aspartame that has affected thousands?”

Blacklist

BEWARE of any food product that contains the words “lite,” “diet,” “low-calorie,” or “no calorie.”

Among these are:

diet iced teas diet soft drinks Crystal Light yogurt lite Diet Jell-O some cereals some children’s vitamins.

Bill Strubbe is a California-based freelance writer who confesses to having once been addicted to SweetTarts.

From the September 28-October 4, 2000 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Usual Suspects

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Jail guard wins First Amendment rights victory in press case

By Francisco P. Riggs

TOUTED BY SOME as a victory for public employees, a Sonoma County Jail guard has won an unusual free-speech suit after he angered county employers with his harsh criticism of articles published in this newspaper.

The 1st District Court of Appeals in San Francisco has now reversed an earlier decision by Sonoma County Superior Court and has ruled that top brass at the Sonoma County Sheriff’s Department were wrong to reprimand correctional officer Jeff DiCello for his letter lambasting articles by the Sonoma County Independent that questioned jail conditions.

The bitter clash between DiCello and Sonoma County Sheriff Jim Piccinini began in 1998 after the Independent published a two-part investigative series on medical conditions and alleged inmate abuse at the county jail.

DiCello was so incensed by the series that he shot off a scathing letter to the newspaper blasting editor Greg Cahill and reporter Paula Harris, who together authored the series, which went on to win the 1999 Sonoma County Press Club’s Lincoln Steffens Award for best investigative reporting in Northern California.

Instead of addressing the in-custody deaths, inmate suicides, and alleged poor medical treatment examined in the series, DiCello, who identified himself as “a jail employee,” chose to fill his letter with personal attacks on the two reporters. The letter was then published, with ensuing embarrassment for Sheriff’s Department officials.

“So, Greg and Paula, relax,” DiCello’s stated in his letter. “You two are never going to be mistaken for Woodward and Bernstein. Go home, kick off your Birkenstocks, and rent All the President’s Men again and wish mommy and daddy had the money to send you to real journalism school so you could write for a real newspaper. Instead, they were too busy smoking weed and working for the Haight-Ashbury Free Clinic in the summer of love! I bet they even met each other when they came in for a VD test.”

THE SHERIFF’S Department immediately set up an internal investigation into whether DiCello had authored the allegedly offensive letter. Piccinini later issued DiCello a formal letter of reprimand, noting that DiCello’s letter contained “inappropriate and unprofessional comments” toward the two reporters. “In making those comments, you brought discredit not only to yourself but to the department you work for,” it stated, adding, “Public statements need to be consistent with public policy.”

In retaliation, DiCello filed a suit against Piccinini, correctional Sgt. John Pels, Asst. Sheriff Sean McDermott, and the county of Sonoma, claiming his First Amendment rights had been violated.

The Independent subsequently ran an editorial defending DiCello’s right to criticize the press.

Last year, the Sonoma County Superior Court ruled that sarcastic portions of the letter could be considered separately and were not constitutionally protected speech and noted that Piccinini was within his rights to discipline DiCello.

This week, the 1st District Court of Appeals reversed the lower-court decision, ruling that DiCello’s entire letter was protected speech and did not affect the department’s operations.

However, DiCello isn’t back at work making his bosses eat crow. According to sheriff’s officials, the outspoken jail guard is currently on long-term disability for a job-related injury.

From the September 28-October 4, 2000 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Aspartame vs. Stevia

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By Bill Strubbe

SO WHAT’S A SWEET tooth and those with diabetes to do? Well, there’s stevia, a natural sweetener derived from a plant (Rebaudiana bertoni), consumed for centuries by indigenous tribes in Paraguay and Brazil. The leaves of the “honey plant,” which spreads like mint and grows to about three feet, are 30 times sweeter than sugar.

In its processed powdered form stevia is 300 times more potent.

In the 1980s, stevia was gaining popularity in the United States. Several companies, including Lipton and Celestial Seasonings, employed it as a flavoring agent. But rather than treat stevia as a natural plant with a long history of safe use, the FDA began confiscating commercial stevia stocks.

“They came in like we were holding dangerous contraband,” recalls Lynda Sadler, president of Traditional Medicinals in Graton. “They embargoed our finished and raw product. We were right in the middle of tea season, and we suffered the loss of sales and inventory, not to mention warehouse space that took four years to clear out.”

Sadler was not alone. “In 1991, FDA marshals unexpectedly arrived at my warehouse and announced they were seizing my inventory of stevia teas,” recalls Oscar Rodes, president of Stevita (formerly Steviasweet and forced by the FDA to change the name because it contained the word “sweet”).

“Since I did not have time to consult an attorney, they took all my inventory, and when I asked what they would do with the teas, they replied that they were going to burn them.”

These extreme actions prompted Sadler and others to form the Stevia Committee of the American Herbal Products Association and to enter petitions with the FDA to prove stevia’s safety. “Five years and $500,000 later,” adds Sadler, “we could see that no matter what level of science or evidence was presented, it made no difference.

“The FDA was not going to treat stevia fairly.”

Despite extensive testing of stevia in Japan in the 1970s with no noted side effects–stevia constitutes almost 50 percent of Japan’s artificial sweetener market–and although a dozen other Asian countries have approved stevia, the FDA still refuses to “file” submitted petitions citing more than 900 articles and research chronicling stevia’s safe use.

Those in the herbal products market contend that because the stevia plant itself cannot be patented, Nutrasweet, out to protect its aspartame interests in the nearly $1 billion artificial-sweetener industry, secretly pressured FDA officials to harass stevia users and ultimately to ban it. Richard Nelson, the former vice president of public affairs for NutraSweet, dismissed those allegations as “one of those urban myths” in a June 1997 article in Self magazine.

But Nelson’s denial is flatly contradicted by Jim May, owner of Wisdom of the Ancients herbal products in Arizona. “In 1984, the FDA [officials] in Phoenix said to me that there’s nothing wrong with using stevia as long as they didn’t get any complaints,” May recalls. “Later, I was called into the office, and the agent apologized and said that the Washington office demanded that we stop using stevia, and he added that it was NutraSweet that tipped them off.”

“Stevia has been banned by the FDA simply because it has not been deemed safe,” says a spokeswoman at Merisant Co., “and it has nothing to do with NutraSweet.”

The FDA was forced through a legal loophole in 1995 to rescind its 1991 import ban against stevia leaves, extracts, and steviosides and allow stevia to be sold as a dietary supplement. Though consumers still won’t find stevia on packaged-food labels as a food additive, it’s sold among the supplement products in most health food stores, though they’re not allowed to mention stevia’s most remarkable quality: its sweetness.

From the September 28-October 4, 2000 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Sister Helen Prejean

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Last Rites

Capital punishment doesn’t stand a ghost of a chance against Sister Helen Prejean

By Patrick Sullivan

I’M A STORYTELLER, a Southern storyteller to be exact,” says Sister Helen Prejean, sounding just like one as her honey-smooth drawl slides down the phone line from New Orleans. “I’m just going to take the audience through the experiences I’ve had here in Louisiana, experiences with the people on death row and with murder victims’ families and all the different folks involved with the death penalty.”

Not exactly the words one might expect to hear coming out of a nun’s mouth, maybe. But if anyone can weave gripping tales out of the grim facts surrounding one of America’s hottest political controversies, it’s Sister Prejean.

Over the past 16 years, the Roman Catholic nun from Louisiana–who will speak in Santa Rosa on Oct. 5–has repeatedly served as a spiritual adviser to death-row inmates. That work has brought her face-to-face with every aspect of America’s dance with the death penalty, from the airy ideological conflicts of television debates to the hard-core reality of the electric chair and the needle at work.

Prejean, now 61, has personally witnessed five executions. Those experiences have helped transform her into one of America’s most determined and effective opponents of capital punishment.

“It never gets easier to watch a human being who is fully alive be taken and killed in front of your eyes,” she says. “You never get used to it. There’s no way to get used to something like that, a death that doesn’t have to happen.

“That’s what galvanized me to work so hard, to get on planes and talk to people.”

But she wasn’t just talking. Prejean was also writing, and it’s her writing that’s had a major impact on the death penalty debate. Dead Man Walking, Prejean’s 1993 account of her personal encounters with both death-row inmates and the families of their victims, garnered a nomination for the Pulitzer Prize and spent 31 weeks at the top of the New York Times bestseller list.

And that was just the beginning.

The book was like a stone thrown into a still pond, and the ripples are still spreading.

First, Dead Man Walking was made into an Oscar-winning movie in 1995. Directed by Tim Robbins and starring Susan Sarandon as Prejean and Sean Penn as a convicted killer facing death, the film version of Dead Man Walking pulled down four Academy Award nominations and helped reignite the debate over the death penalty.

Now the story has jumped genres again: in early October, an operatic version of Dead Man Walking opens at San Francisco Opera. Featuring opera’s grande dame, acclaimed mezzo-soprano Frederica von Stade, as the death-row inmate’s mother, the work is a collaboration between playwright Terrence McNally and composer Jake Heggie.

Prejean served as a consultant for both the movie and the opera–a job that took her into far different circles than her work in a housing project in New Orleans or her mission on death row. When Prejean attends the premiere of the opera, she’ll be in the company of enough Hollywood luminaries to wear out a whole squadron of paparazzi.

“I was just talking to Susan Sarandon today, and all of them are going to be there,” Prejean says. “She and Tim [Robbins] and the whole family are going to be there, and Sean Penn and Robin Wright. So it should be a really interesting experience.”

It’s a far cry from the sort of audiences Prejean encountered after the execution of Patrick Sonnier back in 1982 drove her to start speaking out on the death penalty.

“Who wants to hear a nun on the death penalty?” she asks. “Not many people. One talk I gave was at a nursing home here in New Orleans called St. Christopher’s. Three people showed up after lunch. Two of ’em nodded plumb off during the talk, so I basically had one lady listening to me. And I mean, I locked onto her eyes, like, “Lady, don’t you go to sleep too, ’cause then I’m talking to nobody.’ ”

And even fairly conservative politicians are listening. Shocked by a string of incidents in which condemned prisoners were found to be innocent, Republican Gov. George Ryan of Illinois declared in January a moratorium on capital punishment.

“All of these innocent people have come off death row by a fluke,” Prejean says. “They’ve been saved at the last minute by journalism students or a DNA test, when the courts were just moving them along, ready to execute them.

“It’s not that the system’s working,” she continued. “Scrappy citizens have gotten involved: Barry Scheck’s Innocence Project, or the journalism students from Northwestern who saved Anthony Porter’s life, or the filmmaker who did The Thin Blue Line and saved Randall Dale Adams.

“So that’s helped till the soil on the issue.”

But, of course, not everybody on death row is innocent, as Prejean conveys in her book. Her outrage at the crimes committed by the inmates she has counseled is clear, and her sympathy for the victims of these crimes and their families is profound.

Those emotions tend to confuse both sides in the death penalty debate.

But Prejean herself has little trouble reconciling opposition to crime with opposition to the death penalty.

“One of the things I’ve come to appreciate over the years is that it’s very important to help people deal with the outrage that we all feel over crime,” Prejean says. “Because we are outraged, and that outrage makes us feel like whoever did this deserves to die.

“And if we don’t deal with those feelings,” she continues, “then we can’t come out the other end with a stance for life and human rights.”

Prejean speaks and signs her book on Thursday, Oct. 5, at 7:30 p.m. at the Cardinal Newman Gym, 4300 Old Redwood Hwy., Santa Rosa. Tickets are $15 (proceeds benefit the Catholic Detention Ministry). For details, call 578-0304.

From the September 28-October 4, 2000 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Sculpture Jam

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In a Jam

Defiant Sculpture Jam team boycotts review process

By Paula Harris

LAST YEAR they raised a national ruckus when they unveiled the controversial sculpture that religious-minded critics dubbed the “Door to Hell.” Indeed, the piece is so controversial someone vandalized it this week. So what do Sebastopol sculptor Ron Rodgers and his teammates–fellow sculptors Tom Montan, David Hamilton, and Ralph Carlson–have up their diabolical sleeves for this year’s Sculpture Jam?

Nobody’s giving out artistic specifics, but in the wake of new rules imposed on public art by the city of Sebastopol, the team members appear to have revolution on their minds.

“With the formation of a review, the Sculpture Jam event has become too convoluted with too many rules,” says Rodgers. “This a protest!”

The annual Sculpture Jam weekend event, touted by organizers at the Sebastopol Center for the Arts as the only one of its kind in the world, features several teams of artists creating sculptures in public.

Community members get to watch the sculptors in action and maybe even participate in the artistic process. The resulting sculptures are then installed on public sites throughout Sebastopol–a fact that caused more controversy last year than anyone ever expected.

This year Rodgers and his team have defied Sebastopol’s newly created review process. The team has refused to reveal any details about its project, submitting merely a blank sheet of paper to city officials and claiming that they’re waiting for “the muse” for inspiration.

What this means in practical terms is unclear. “This team’s work will probably have to go through the design review board after it’s completed,” says City Planning Director Kenyon Webster.

But the symbolic point is clear. The sculpture team’s action is, of course, a blatant swipe at what Rodgers dubs “typical bureaucracy.” The group is shunning the procedure that now requires artists to show their designs and get city and community approval for their placement during the Sculpture Jam event, now in its third year.

“I used to like the grassroots, hands-on part of the event. These pieces of art are gifts to the city,” says an irritated Rodgers, who designed the now infamous door. “The city should be receptive and grateful instead of dictating what can go where.”

Door Damaged: Vandals attack the so-called ‘Door To Hell’ with a sledgehammer.

THE NEW REVIEW process began this year after controversy arose over the placement of the untitled door sculpture on a grassy berm at the corner of Bodega and Jewell avenues near a local church.

The 3,000-pound concrete sculpture depicts a life-size door, slightly ajar and lying like a tombstone on the ground. Some critics interpreted the piece as a diabolical door to the underworld. Other onlookers placed everything from wreaths to restroom signs on the problematic portal.

The new city guidelines specify that the placement of art on any particular public site is as significant as the art itself. Therefore siting should be considered “early in the process.” Also, the agreed-upon guidelines for placement on a particular public site should provide for the participation and comments of those who will have to “live with” any piece placed there.

The new guidelines have produced quite a bit of comment. Not all of this year’s Sculpture Jam artists agree with Rodgers and his group.

“This is in no way a censorship,” says sculptor Susandra Spicer. “It’s about whether sites are appropriate for placement of the pieces.” She adds that working with the city of Sebastopol was a positive experience.

“All the artists have mixed feelings about the red tape because we are a free-spirited bunch,” agrees Sebastopol stone and metal sculptor Aaron Poovey. “But the city has been really understanding and responsive.”

Spicer says she suspects the Rodgers team is purposely not seeking installation approval in an attempt “to be colorful.”

It’s no secret that Rodgers and company enjoyed a lot of the attention from last’s year’s piece–so are they in it this year to create a little shock value? Teammate Tom Montan says the group is made up of serious artists who are not trying “to be racy.” But hearing Rodgers talk, one might draw different conclusions.

“We’re using the muse as an excuse. If she shows up, we’ll have a good piece. If she doesn’t . . . well then, it’s not our fault,” says Rodgers, somewhat ominously.

So, is Rodgers saying the team plans to top the public forum and controversy stirred up by the door with their mysterious piece, so far known only by its title, A Shrine to the Muse?

“Chances are good that [A Shrine to the Muse] might be controversial,” Rodgers admits. “But I don’t think it will get the attention of the door.”

Of course, this year’s Sculpture Jam theme, “Totems, Shrines, and Icons,” also seems to be purposely provocative.

“The theme is like a can of worms–it can be offensive to everybody,” agrees Rodgers. Then he adds, “But I don’t think anyone’s planning that. But if drama happens, it’s good. Any publicity is good because the [Sebastopol Center for the Arts] needs monetary donations.”

But according to Linda Galletta, executive director of the Sebastopol Center for the Arts, which sponsors the Sculpture Jam, organizers are not trying to make the event controversial.

“[The door] put us in the spotlight, but controversy is in the eye of the beholder,” says Galletta. “The door was actually a traditional Victorian piece, and we didn’t expect controversy. I don’t think that’s the intention of the program. It’s supposed to be an educational showcase and a way for artists to come out of their caves and network.”

Meanwhile, other artists have grown weary of the door and all the histrionics it created. “It’s just a door,” sighed Sculpture Jam founder Warren Arnold during last year’s event. “We’ve got 11 pieces up around Sebastopol, and this is the only one that’s gotten any comment.”

“The door was the least detailed, the least people-involved piece,” observes Spicer.

THIS YEAR Spicer and her teammates will assemble a 4-foot-wide, 7-foot-tall wooden altar “to honor the west county.” They’re asking the public to help decorate it with plastic found objects.

Other teams will create a wide variety of items: a forest of totemlike “spirit poles”; a copper fountain made with jewelry; a stone carving incorporating the yin and yang symbol; and large, decorative woven-wire baskets. There’s even a new unofficial Sculpture Jam website (www.sculpturejam.org) created by one of the participating artists.

Rodgers and his team plan to sculpt their secret piece along with everyone else and wait to see how it’s received and whether it can be installed.

“The city will probably take a look at it and say they can’t find a place for it,” says Rodgers with a short laugh.

Whether any of the sculptures will cause the same kind of disturbance as last year’s door is anyone’s guess. But most agree the attention was advantageous.

“We made national news last year,” reflects Poovey. “Money can’t buy that.”

Sculpture Jam kicks off with an art show on Thursday, Oct. 5, at 6 p.m. that will feature works of art by the participating sculptors. The “jam” itself starts Friday, Oct. 6, and runs through Sunday, Oct. 8, from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. each day at the former lumberyard on Petaluma Avenue across from the downtown plaza in Sebastopol. Free. Call 829-2416.

From the September 28-October 4, 2000 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Stephen King

Stephen King opens up in new memoir

By Sophie Annan Jensen

THE WORST-KEPT secret in publishing is that Stephen King’s On Writing: A Memoir of the Craft is as much a confessional autobiography as a guide for aspiring writers. The promise of the cellar door in the cover illustration is kept: King gets down and dirty with the tale of his addictions to booze and cocaine and the recovery that followed wife Tabitha’s tough intervention about 15 years ago.

The book hits the stores Oct. 3, but Simon & Schuster has already been sending excerpts to a free-for-the-asking fan e-mail list. Moreover, The New Yorker ran excerpts, Amazon.com has posted advance reviews from professionals and fans, and Advance Reading Copies have been offered for sale on Web auction sites (although, strictly speaking, ARCs are meant for reviewers only). Of course, given King’s recent history of Web publishing, nothing should surprise us.

Readers familiar with 12-step jargon figured out several books ago that the world’s richest writer had given up booze, recreational drugs, and cigarettes. We also had an idea, based on snippets of autobiography and a steadily increasing list of gutsy women characters overcoming daunting odds, that he had a pretty well-developed feminist consciousness. That’s confirmed, too, with his declarations that his mother–abandoned by their father when Stephen was 2 and his brother 4, and ever after a toiler in menial jobs–was his single biggest influence.

King won’t go so far as to say he’s a feminist, but he has called his writing about women “psychological cross-dressing in order to know the other” (On the Issues, Fall 1995).

Like most writers who write about the craft, he has no startling revelations about the writing process: “The adverb is not your friend.” “If you want to be a writer you must do two things: read a lot and write a lot.” “If you don’t have the time to read, you don’t have the time or the tools to write.” There are no limits on subject matter, “as long as you tell the truth.” “Avoid the passive voice. Omit needless words.”

No revelations there, but it never hurts to be reminded.

What’s new, and quite fascinating, is King’s analysis of what was really going on in some of his books. “There’s one novel, Cujo, that I barely remember writing.” Some blackout.

To readers, they may have been a writer’s imagination, but King says the kidnapper of Misery, the mind-possessing monsters in The Tommyknockers, and the haunting of the blocked writer in The Shining are symbols of his addictions.

A combination of events makes King news right now. He’s recovering from a near-fatal road accident last year. He’s the first big-time writer to totally bypass publishers and release a serialized novel on the Internet. And, in On Writing, he discusses his addictions in graphic terms.

Before a group of family and friends, Tabitha emptied his trash can onto the rug. Out poured, as King writes, “beer cans, cigarette butts, cocaine in gram bottles and cocaine in plastic Baggies, coke spoons caked with snot and blood, Valium, Xanax, bottles of Robitussin cough syrup and NyQuil cold medicine, even bottles of mouthwash.” Interventions are always tricky; this one worked.

Of course, the cynical might say this is just the American Way: we love people who almost die, especially in such dramatic ways, and we love people who publicly confess. That may well be true, but I’d argue there’s more to it.

King respects the darkness we all carry, and he’s not afraid to tap into it. The novel The Dark Half and his collection of essays on the horror genre, Danse Macabre, are filled with the importance of fearless examination of the things that lurk in the cellar. But now the horrormeister, the abandoned kid who did his early writing while living in a trailer park, is finally getting some respect from the literary establishment.

From the September 28-October 4, 2000 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

The Puppet Workshop and Festival 2000

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Polly at the Puppet Fest.

Photograph by Arlyn Coad

Child’s Play

Marionettes hang out at Jarvis Conservatory during Puppet Fest

By Paula Harris

EVEN THE MOST jaded child, force-fed an incessant diet of TV murders and video-arcade violence, can usually suspend disbelief long enough to be enticingly drawn in by the age-old enchantment of puppetry. And we’re not talking “media puppetry,” a catch-all term used for film, video, and computer technology’s electronic interpretations of the ancient art form.

“Despite exciting technical developments, media puppetry rarely is used to its fullest advantage because few directors and producers can imagine the possibilities,” explains longtime puppeteer Leman Coad of Vancouver-based Coad Canada Puppets. “Also, film and video don’t encourage the audience’s imagination. Everything is spelled out in the finest detail.”

So here we’re talking about becoming transfixed by decidedly low-tech blocks of wood and chunks of foam–which actually make the most magical puppets of all.

The spellbinding quality of giving life to an inanimate object evokes a unique and universal response from both children and adults. Puppeteers call it a pure form of theater that allows the audience to believe in the character and even invest emotion in it.

“Puppetry doesn’t just allow, it encourages audiences to use their imagination,” adds Coad. “Good puppetry suggests very clearly, then backs off to allow the audience to fill in the details. The magic of puppetry is the spectator suspending reality and believing the object of wood, paint, and fabric is a thinking, feeling character.”

Coad will be bringing his string marionettes to the Napa’s Jarvis Conservatory for the Puppet Workshop and Festival 2000, where his dolls will share billing with Missouri-based Parasol Puppets. Parasol Puppets will perform Circus using handcrafted hand puppets. Coad Canada Puppets will perform Polly, a mime show with marionettes. (Puppeteers maneuver a hand puppet with their hand concealed inside the figure; they move a marionette by manipulating strings or wires from above.)

Polly is essentially a character study of a small child. The production is a series of vignettes with a thin story line to tie them together, but the focus is on Polly’s mental and emotional processes. “I think the show works because Polly taps into the infant in each of us,” explains Coad.

The puppeteers will lead a hands-on workshop preceding Saturday’s matinee. Debbie Lutzsky Allen of Parasol Puppets will show participants how to create puppets, which they will be able to keep. Coad will provide insight into the technique and history of puppet theater and demonstrate the basic skills of how to manipulate the marionettes.

“My approach to puppetry is to simplify. Eliminate all the nonessentials so only the essence remains,” says Coad. “Then I step back and allow the audience to participate with their imaginations.”

The Puppet Workshop and Festival 2000 offers two performances; one on Friday, Sept. 29, at 7 p.m., and another on Saturday, Sept. 30, at 3:30 p.m. at the Jarvis Conservatory, 1711 Main St., Napa. Tickets are $20 for adults and $10 for children 12 and under. Catch the festival’s Saturday workshop from 1 to 2:30 p.m. Tuition is $5 per person. Call 255-5445.

From the September 21-27, 2000 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Mass Transit

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SUV-lovin’ SOBs–Katie Alvord wants you to brave the wilds of mass transit

THIS BUS STOP smells like urine. An inky swamp of soggy newspapers covers the floor and bench, while a pleasant little pool of thick red liquid–Is it a melted Popsicle? Is it blood? What the hell is that?–lies steaming in the gum-encrusted corner. Countless cigarette butts are strewn about. And it’s hot. At 1 o’clock in the afternoon, it’s a whopping 93 degrees outside, but inside the covered shelter–at the corner of fourth and C streets in Petaluma–it’s at least 10 degrees hotter.

I think I’ll stand outside.

I just have to remember to avoid stepping in that big calcified dog-leaving that so festively adorns the sidewalk nearby. I peruse the street, hoping for the arrival of the Greyhound Bus that (if all is right with the world) is carrying Katie Alvord, author of Divorce Your Car: Ending the Love Affair with the Automobile (New Society Publishers; $17.95). The Michigan-based writer–a transportation iconoclast of the highest order–is in the midst of a 4,000-mile cross-country book tour, which she is conducting entirely car-free.

I plan to intercept Alvord’s bus en route from a book-signing in Oakland to her drop-off point in Santa Rosa, where she’ll mount her handy folding bicycle and ride to Sebastopol for another bookstore appearance this evening.

Before any of that can happen, though, the bus has to drive through Petaluma, where I am still waiting.

A bevy of buses runs by varying services–from Golden Gate Transit and Sonoma County Transit to the local Petaluma service–rumble up to the stop from time to time, admitting or discharging a stream of public-transit aficionados. I soon discover that, by hovering close to the vastly proportioned vehicles, I can find momentary shade from the murderous sun.

So I wait. And wait.

The Greyhound is not technically due to pass through town until 2 p.m., but the scary Greyhound rep I spoke to on the phone warned that I should be here at least an hour ahead or I’d run a serious risk of missing the bus altogether.

“Our buses,” he insisted, “often come early.”

The bus arrives at precisely 2:06. Katie Alvord is waiting inside, lounging in air-conditioned luxury. Waving me back, Alvord points me to the seat she’s saved in the row directly in front of her. There is nowhere else to sit. “There are a lot of people on the Greyhound today,” she beams.

ALVORD REPRESENTS a trend that, according to the stats running throughout her book, is quickly sweeping the country, though at 6 percent Sonoma County still enjoys the lowest percentage of commuters using public transit in the nine-county Bay Area region. And then there’s that public transit strike in Los Angeles this week that has stranded a half million carless commuters.

Still, Alvord says, America’s love affair with the car seems to be cooling off. Whether as a protest against an increasingly fast-paced world, as a means to reduce automotive exhaust and fight global warming, or as a way to avoid being stuck behind the wheel in gridlocked traffic, thousands of people are divorcing their cars–turning to buses, trains, and bicycles or resorting to carpools and car-sharing programs–happily claiming that the whole car-human thing was a dysfunctional relationship to begin with.

She defines two kinds of car divorce: Car Free and Car Light, where the vehicle is used only when absolutely necessary.

Divorce Your Car features a witty foreword by Alvord’s ex-hubby, Sonoma’s Craig Scarborough, who admits the 10-year marriage was made “inappropriate,” in part owing to his own love for “fun things with internal-combustion systems.”

Alvord’s entertaining, eye-opening book has gained her a great deal of attention–and more than a little hostility.

“One talk-show host that interviewed me on the radio,” she reveals, as the bus climbs the on ramp onto a bumper-to-bumper Highway 101, “began the show proclaiming, ‘What you are proposing is nothing short of un-American!'”

If so, Alvord doesn’t care.

“I’m car-free and a much happier person because of it,” she insists. “If someone wants to pursue a simpler lifestyle, divorcing their car fits right in.”

Simpler? As my unpleasant, time-killing experience illustrates, traveling car-free brings plenty of unpleasant inconveniences–not the least of which is the sunburn I earned waiting the prescribed hour for the bus.

Alvord–who’s heard every excuse in the book, and they are all in her book–is fairly tactful in her response to my complaint.

“As an experienced bus rider,” she remarks, “you learn which services typically run a little late and which ones are smack-dab on time. And even if they tell you to get there an hour in advance . . . that’s ridiculous. An hour early? That’s just impossible.”

I believe she’s now laughing at me.

“I mean, duh,” she says, grinning. “As for the other kinds of problems you’re talking about–the cruddy bus stop, the slow schedule, and lack of facilities–those are things that have stemmed from our lack of investment in transit for many, many years.

“Let your decision-makers know that you are using those services and that you want to see them improved, from general statements about it to specifics, like, ‘I was standing at the bus stop, and it was a really unpleasant experience.’ ”

You could make the phone call to Sonoma County Transit or to Greyhound or to the county supervisors.

Alvord looks out the window, where traffic is crawling as we zip by in the diamond lane. Referring to those car-addicted folks who’d like to add a few costly lanes to 101, she says, “Adding lanes doesn’t solve congestion problems the way people expect them to be solved. Because what happens when you add extra lane capacity, after a brief time, you end up with more traffic than you started with.”

The bus pulls into the station in Santa Rosa, and within minutes Alvord has assembled her folding 10-speed bike, attached the trailer-hitch suitcase, and is ready to ride.

“Living car-free is not for everyone,” she admits before she leaves. “The thing is, you can structure your life so that it’s not that inconvenient.”

With that, she pedals off, leaving me to take the bus back home.

As she pulls away, I notice the giant letters printed on the back of her T-shirt: One Less Car.

From the September 21-27, 2000 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Anti-Fashion on the Internet

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Chic Shot

Cyber catwalk spawns anti-fashion websites and plenty of satirical punch

By Paula Harris

RUNWAY DIVAS, style slaves, and hip fashionistas have their pick. Racks of chic magazine layouts, slick advertisements, and cool-chic websites are readily available to dictate exactly what is and what is not au courant. But what about everyone else? Well, a backlash against the fashion-obsessed can also be found on the Web. Here are our top picks for anti-fashion websites. Hey, they might even start a trend.

1. www.riotgrrl.com/feed.htm

It’s hard to pass up a serving of the intriguingly titled “Feed the Supermodel” game. Riotgrrl’s morphing pics let you transform an emaciated celebrity waif into a fatty by feeding her more than a Carr’s water cracker and bottle of Evian. Today, bony, pointy-faced Jennifer Love Hewitt, actress and cover girl, appears on-screen posing on some beach in a stretchy white crop top and painted-on crimson shorts. Feeding time! Just a click and then watch her chin double and her hips expand. “Thank you so very much!,” Love Hewett “responds.” “Oh! Boy! I am so happy! Can you feed me just a little more?!” But the game has just begun. It’s up to you whether you want to help the now-chubby supermodel lose weight by dishing out “comida buena” (including carrots, Slimfast, and vitamins), or turn her into an ecstatic blimp with “comida mal” (including stromboli, 16-oz. steak, and Oreo cheesecake). More satisfying than a platter of ribs!

2. www.thewire.org/jim/mfashion

Men are not immune to the fashion knocks on the Net. This page of “Men’s Fashion Rules” by Jim Rosenberg aims to provide a service to the women of the world, since “men are from Kmart, women are from Bloomingdale’s.” His enlightening tips include such gems as: “A man must never purchase clothes with visible writing, unless it is related to sports or Bart Simpson. This is especially true of Euro-sounding phrases like ‘Chunnel Boy’ or sissified concoctions such as ‘Mummsy’s Yacht Club.’ ” The best Rosenberg Rule is that a man must show no hint of style or flair and strive at all times to approximate Stalin-era work camp garb. “To help resist the urge to improvise, simply recall those ’70s shirts with French street scenes, long beagle dog collars, and absolutely no natural fibers,” he advises. “These were once thought to be stylish. Men might still be wearing them today, were it not for OSHA’s landmark ruling that they were simply too flammable for public use.”

3. www.feralcheryl.com.au/

“Thank you for saving the children from stupid, anorexic, dumb blonde dolls with big boobs who wear ridiculous ’80s-style clothes!” gushes Heide Belbin of Penguin, Tasmania, at the customer-comments section of this website, the Australian Anti-Barbie, a doll named Feral Cheryl. Yes, this one is for the kids. This is no ultrafashion doll with freakish proportions and tortured feet. Feral Cheryl is a real wild child from the rainforest region of New South Wales, Australia, and was originally created to reflect the “freedom and wildness” of the alternative lifestyles in that area. “Unlike other ‘fashion dolls,’ the 34-cm. vinyl Feral Cheryl doll is not blonde, and not ridiculously thin,” touts the blurb. “She goes barefoot [and] has tattoos, dreadlocks, simple clothes, and a handmade rainbow bag. She lives simply and with a healthy body shape, and pubic hair . . . (hmmm, maybe more than we wanted to know). Feral Cheerily is a natural young woman.” And parents, listen up! Feral Cheryl has no fashion wardrobe, sports car, wedding dress, beauty shop, or holiday camper.

4. www.rtmark.com/more/tommy/

In a 1997 nationwide effort to mock notions of “style” mass-marketed to consumers and play on similarities between the words and meanings of “fashion” and “fascism,” a group of anti-fashionites calling themselves WearMockers placed parody T-shirts in department stores among similar displayed merchandise. This website tells how they transformed the logo that identifies the popular Tommy Hilfiger line by changing the name in the distinctive red, white, and blue flag-style emblem from “Hilfiger” to “Hitler.” Thus, the logo read “TOMMY HITLER.” The activists placed hundreds of shirts–and many customers and salespeople often never immediately saw the difference. “It had all of the thrills of shoplifting with none of the guilt,” explains WearMocker 017, of Portland, Ore. “We ended up calling it ‘shopleaving.’ ”

5. www.adbusters.org/

Those lovable pranksters at Adbusters are at it again. Check out their spoof fashion ads for Obsession for Men, Obsession for Women, Escape (as in from Calvin Klein), Benetton, Tommy Hilfiger (follow the flock), and one for a certain athletic shoe company featuring a young Asian woman fleeing barefoot. “You’re running because you want that raise, to be all that you can be,” states the print. “But it’s not easy when you work 60 hours a week making sneakers in an Indonesian factory and your friends disappear when they ask for a raise. So think globally before you decide it’s so cool to wear Nike.” No pain, no gain.

6. www.blank.org/sweatgear/

This parody fashion-catalog site allows customers to select designer attire from old-fashioned sweatshops in El Salvador “for that lean and mean look.” For example, THE SWEAT’ER from the Sweat Gear Fashion Line is a choice young sweater from El Salvador’s world-renowned labor pool. “Available in sizes from 15 to 26 years old. Pairs up perfectly with transnational capital. Performs under the harshest conditions. Works 13-hour days for 57¢/hour, practically free with every SWEAT GEAR purchase. Do not publicize, unionize, or wash with strong insurgent. Over 60,000 units on hand. Replacements readily available.” If that’s not to your taste, how about the GLOBAL CITIZEN from the Empowerment Fashion Line? “Which is more important? A bargain in your local fashion mall, or social justice and economic democracy? This Global Citizen doesn’t have to ask. She knows it takes grassroots action to build a better world. Not afraid to confront U.S. policymakers or transnational corporations. Supports women who are organizing in the sweatshops of El Salvador. Looks beyond her own backyard to find solutions. Knit together, seamless fabric. One standard of justice fits all.” Required reading for Kathie Lee.

7. www.postfun.com/pfp/fashion

Conservatives don’t even bother. This satire on Christianity and fashion–“The Week in Fashion Prophecy”–is deeply offensive. And often hilarious. Lots of stylin’ sermons here, including “Accessorizing with Gifts of the Holy Spirit,” “Accepting Jesus as Your Personal Shopper,” and “Cross-Dressing for Less.” A segment on WWJD-emblazoned underwear tells consumers, “When the spirit is willing but the flesh is weak, let these 100% cotton panties do the talking for you. ‘What Would Jesus Do?’ ” Those words will put a damper on a young man’s ardor faster than a bedroom full of stuffed animals. And another section, “Jesus at the Oscars,” reports that “while most fundamentalist and evangelical Christians believe that Jesus looks better on the hanger, at Adult Christianity we believe differently. We want Jesus off the rack, out of the closet, and into the scene. While Jesus is the same yesterday, today and forever, we’re quite sure his handlers would, with key accessories, periodically update his timeless style.” The report lists suggestions for outfits, including a transparent latex beaded shirt–skintight (like Prada)–and lace-up boots with big heels, as a nod to his blue-collar roots. “Although this is all speculation,” it continues, “I’m quite sure Jesus would not be nailed down to one particular look. I think he would always surprise.”

From the September 21-27, 2000 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Gaytán

Mind Food Agustín Gaytán puts a new twist on old Mexican favorites By Marina Wolf SOME PEOPLE don't remember anything from their childhoods. Agustín Gaytán remembers everything, and most of it revolves around food. Tamale-making parties for holidays. Moles, the complex sauces ground and mixed by hand in a stone motate....

Aspartame

Killing Me Sweetly Is aspartame really a safe sugar substitute? If not, why is the FDA blocking the release of a better alternative? By Bill Strubbe EVELYN BLAKE'S downhill spiral began in 1994 when she decided to lose weight: she switched to diet sodas and began using Equal as a...

Usual Suspects

Jail guard wins First Amendment rights victory in press case By Francisco P. Riggs TOUTED BY SOME as a victory for public employees, a Sonoma County Jail guard has won an unusual free-speech suit after he angered county employers with his harsh criticism of articles published in this newspaper. The 1st District...

Aspartame vs. Stevia

By Bill Strubbe SO WHAT'S A SWEET tooth and those with diabetes to do? Well, there's stevia, a natural sweetener derived from a plant (Rebaudiana bertoni), consumed for centuries by indigenous tribes in Paraguay and Brazil. The leaves of the "honey plant," which spreads like mint and grows to about three feet, are 30 times sweeter...

Sister Helen Prejean

Last Rites Capital punishment doesn't stand a ghost of a chance against Sister Helen Prejean By Patrick Sullivan I'M A STORYTELLER, a Southern storyteller to be exact," says Sister Helen Prejean, sounding just like one as her honey-smooth drawl slides down the phone line from New Orleans. "I'm just going to...

Sculpture Jam

In a Jam Defiant Sculpture Jam team boycotts review process By Paula Harris LAST YEAR they raised a national ruckus when they unveiled the controversial sculpture that religious-minded critics dubbed the "Door to Hell." Indeed, the piece is so controversial someone vandalized it this week. So what do Sebastopol sculptor...

Stephen King

Stephen King opens up in new memoir By Sophie Annan Jensen THE WORST-KEPT secret in publishing is that Stephen King's On Writing: A Memoir of the Craft is as much a confessional autobiography as a guide for aspiring writers. The promise of the cellar door in the cover illustration is kept: King gets...

The Puppet Workshop and Festival 2000

Polly at the Puppet Fest. Photograph by Arlyn Coad Child's Play Marionettes hang out at Jarvis Conservatory during Puppet Fest By Paula Harris EVEN THE MOST jaded child, force-fed an incessant diet of TV murders and video-arcade violence, can usually suspend disbelief long enough to be enticingly...

Mass Transit

SUV-lovin' SOBs--Katie Alvord wants you to brave the wilds of mass transit THIS BUS STOP smells like urine. An inky swamp of soggy newspapers covers the floor and bench, while a pleasant little pool of thick red liquid--Is it a melted Popsicle? Is it blood? What the hell is that?--lies steaming in the gum-encrusted...

Anti-Fashion on the Internet

Chic Shot Cyber catwalk spawns anti-fashion websites and plenty of satirical punch By Paula Harris RUNWAY DIVAS, style slaves, and hip fashionistas have their pick. Racks of chic magazine layouts, slick advertisements, and cool-chic websites are readily available to dictate exactly what is and what is not au courant. But what...
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