Margaret Cho & Liam Sullivan Deliver the Diverse Goods

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The Warfield, San Francisco – March 15, 2008

Former “All-American Girl” Margaret Cho returned for a pair of triumphant nights at the Warfield a couple weeks back, reminding us why she’s still the Bay Area’s biggest gay pride (and joy). Looking relaxed and slender in her red and white striped top and skin-tight jeans, Cho delivered a potent, acerbic set which seemed to delight the mostly gay and Asian-American audience.

“I just got back from Australia,” she said before cataloging other prominent celebs like Kathy Griffin, Cyndi Lauper and Olivia Newton-John who were there with her. “It was like a fag hag summit.” Although Cho can trump her friend Griffin at her own oral-tabloid game (“The paparazzi pussy shot is bad luck and it captures the soul of your pussy,” she said of the recent rash of young Hollywood downfalls), she’s always shined brightest when presenting herself as one of us, be it a gay advocate in everyday life, a self-conscious minority trapped in a Eurocentric culture or just another member of MySpace (“Who hasn’t fucked their top 10? I actually fucked Tom!”).

With hysterical bits on everything from Project Runway to Ann Coulter and former Senator Larry Craig, the comedienne’s set catered mostly to her gay following, “I love gay bars until it gets to be ‘dick o’clock,’” Cho joked. “We should have a fag hag shuttle go by all the bars to takes us to a safe house, where we can watch the Sex and the City movie before anyone else!”

This left little time for empathizing with other Asian Americans. Still, the crowd lovingly erupted when Cho spoke of being mistaken for other Asian-American performers, part of a segment drawing on her trademark raunchy blend of culturally astute social commentary and painfully hilarious recounts. “What was it like to make Charlie’s Angels?” someone asked, to which she replied, “No, I’m the one from Grey’s Anatomy.”

The crowd nearly burst when she described her father’s curious reaction to the Virginia Tech massacre, an atrocity unfortunately wrought by a fellow Korean. “Wow, 32 people,” she mimicked in an exaggerated Korean accent, “I mean, one or two is okay, but…”

With The Cho Show premiering this summer, I can’t wait to finally see some real talent on VH1 to counter the “Celebreality” has-beens who’ve taken over the channel.

Liam Sullivan, whose electro-pop internet music videos as valley girl caricature Kelly (“Shoes” / “Text Message Breakup”) are bona fide smash hits, was a worthy opener, if a little too restrained in the large theater. Flanked by two backup performers, Sullivan stayed put behind the microphone for a live rendition of Peoples Choice Award-winner “Shoes,” a performance that paled in comparison to the gut-busting showing of “Let Me Borrow That Top” that preceded it. But if Sullivan can translate his characters onto a clever stage production – or onto a screen size bigger than a YouTube window – the man touted as the next Dave Chappelle or Sacha Baron Cohen will soon be able to buy all the shoes in the world. Be on the lookout.

David Sason

Margaret Cho http://www.margaretcho.com

Liam Sullivan http://www.liamshow.com

Serious Dough

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C yrus owners Douglas Keane and Nick Peyton were elated to receive two stars from the Michelin Guide in 2007. Now they’d like to up that to three. And one of the ways they hope to garner that bit of extra gleam in the Michelin inspectors’ eyes, says Keane, is with bread. That’s as in world-class starch, conveyed via a multichoice bread cart à la the service found at Michelin three-star restaurants like Joel Robuchon and Guy Savoy.

So they’re spending some serious bread of their own. The duo are building a $300,000 bakery next door to their Healdsburg restaurant. It’s situated in the back of Costeaux French Bakery, which conveniently opens directly out to the back door of Cyrus (Costeaux has moved their production to an off site commissary).

Currently, diners are treated to bread from Petaluma’s Della Fattoria, which chef Keane says he “adores,” but “it’s just one amazing” choice, and he wants to put his own signature on a variety, such as a sourdough, a bacon bread and perhaps corn muffins.

It will also be even fresher, Keane points out, with bread coming out of the oven at 4pm for service at 5:30pm. He hopes to eventually be able to pull off baking during service, for made-to-order presentation.

While it’s a large investment for a product that will be given away for free, Keane insists he sees a payoff. “[The multichoice bread cart] makes you feel so pampered, and we’re always pushing ourselves to do things better,” he says. “We saw the difference getting a two-star rating made on the business, so we thought, if we can get a third, it’s not completely crazy.”

Part of the space will also be used as temperature-controlled butchery and a catering commissary. Look for the new dough to debut by late summer.

Cyrus, 29 North St., Healdsburg. 707.433.3311.



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Letters to the Editor

03.26.08

Thanks for your story about George Webber, multipersonality extraordinaire (“The General,” Our Town, March 19). My spouse and I have been delightfully entertained by his historical knowledge and mirthful yet rapier-like wit on multiple trips to Northern California. Finally, someone has reported the story of one who many family and friends have found to be one of your area’s best-kept secret entertainment talents. Viva the walking tours of Sonoma and Napa valleys!

Peter M. Rose

Des Moines

In her article “The Meat of the Matter” (Feb. 20), Christina Waters waxes on about “a new renaissance” in meat-eating, as if that were a good thing. The “back to the pasture” movement may help carnivores feel better about what they eat, but more “humane” farming methods don’t make animal farming kind and compassionate. Just a little less cruel.

I wonder what Ms. Waters thinks goes on in those “family-run” slaughterhouses? Brother and sister hold the pig while mom hands dad the knife? She is really grasping at nonexistent straws if she thinks that animal slaughter can be a tidy, humane process. Using words like “dispatched” to describe the violent wrenching of life away from a 400-pound pig shows a Mary Poppins&–like naiveté with more than a spoonful of wishful thinking on her part. We’re not sending these animals off to boarding school. Slaughter is an inherently brutal, bloody process and cruel because it is completely unnecessary.

Mainstream scientific and nutritional agencies such as the American Dietetic Association and Dietitians of Canada say we don’t need any animal products to live long and healthy lives. Despite Ms. Water’s feeble optimism, mainstream science still holds that animal products increase the risk of many of today’s most serious diseases including heart disease, diabetes and cancer.

Why do we bend over backwards to justify the unnecessary exploitation of other species? The use of animals will always be plagued with serious moral issues. There is a lot more joy in learning to cook, eat and dress without these products, rather than trying to stuff the inherent cruelty of animal exploitation into an uncomfortable fit within an ethical framework that doesn’t really meet even the most minimal standards of humanity.

Wade Spital

Petaluma

Up here on the Love Level, the second-floor office in which editorial gnashes and composes, we have a lyrical saying about the annual Best Of the North Bay issue, published just last week. “Once we apologize,” we whisper to one another, fairly shaking with anticipation, “it’s all over for the year!” Then we make a special Love Level symbol with our thumbs and pour more lukewarm water over the same tea bag we’ve been using all day. It’s just that giddy.

This year marks a spectacular round of apology. For starters, there’s the matter of the Readers Choice winners from the Everyday category that were to have printed last week on p85 but lay restfully underneath a soy-ink-based layer of advertising instead. These two columns of rock-solid winners are found this week on p37, and man are we haunted-dreams-sorry about that last-minute production snafu.

Further items on our scarlet A-for-Apology list include:

Clavey River Equipment is delighted to be reached by phone at their actual number, 707.766.8070.

Great Sunsations Tanning Spa won honorable mention for Sonoma County in the Best Tanning Salon slot but never darkened our master list of winners and so was accidentally omitted. This fine establishment may be found in the Brickyard Center, 508 Seventh St., Santa Rosa. 707.545.6786.

Bernstein Orthodontics have two locations to address overbite, underbite and crossbite. While we’re certain that Dr. Peter Bernstein of Seavey Road in Petaluma is one heckuva doc, he was not the winner; Dr. Rael Bernstein is. His offices may be found thusly: 515 Farmers Lane, Santa Rosa. 707.575.0600. 8741 Brooks Road S., Windsor. 707.836.8360.

And finally, we’re willing to state with fair certainty that there is no surf shop with a Petaluma address found in Napa—at least not in this universe. And if there is, lawd knows, we apologize.

The Ed.

(It’s all over!)


&–&–>

Green-Collar Jobs

03.26.08

F or the first time, the Green for All Campaign will be traveling to Sonoma County from the East Bay to launch what could become a vital source of jobs for those most in need. Green for All is a national campaign created by the Ella Baker Center for Human Rights, based in Oakland, whose goal is to bring green jobs and training to the youth in low-income communities, to people of color and to marginalized people of all kinds.

Van Jones, a co-founder and executive director of the Ella Baker Center, birthed the Green Collar Jobs Campaign out of his understanding that if we are going to save the planet, we need to make changes that will necessitate the creation of tens of thousands of jobs. Green jobs have the potential to act as pathways out of poverty, and here, at last, is a chance to involve those who often suffer the most, both from lack of well-paying employment and from living in areas that are often the most severely polluted.

First, I speak with longtime Sonoma County activist Mary Moore, a key organizer of the upcoming event. Moore, who volunteers for Advocates for Police Accountability, believes that as a community, we need to make connections between our overflowing prisons, the lack of jobs and the limited nature of the environmental movement—a movement that currently seems to be only for those living in privilege. Moore believes the Ella Baker Center through its Green Collar Jobs Campaign will provide those who need the opportunities most a chance to flourish in what may soon be a driving economic force across the country: the creation and implementation of “green-collar” jobs.

After hearing about Jones’ work, Moore contacted the Ella Baker Center and invited members to come to Sonoma County. Chops at the DeMeo Teen Center in Santa Rosa has generously donated its space for the March 29 event. The goal is to bring together a range of people—community members, local business owners, students and city officials—to begin organizing and focusing on ways to mobilize the Green Collar Jobs Campaign in both Sonoma and Mendocino counties.

Moore connects me with Abel Habtegeorgis, communications manager at the Ella Baker Center. Since its inception in September of 2007, Green for All has pushed through the Green Jobs Act in the House of Representatives, authorizing $125 million for a federal green job-training program. The city of Oakland has so far donated $250,000 in seed money to start Oakland’s Green Job Corps, a job-training demonstration program that aims to serve as a model for the nation, and Green for All is currently working toward securing $1 billion in funding for green-collar job training, in order to lift 250,000 people across the nation out of poverty.

Habtegeorgis tells me that the campaign is currently pressing for legislation that will ensure statewide investments in both green technology and green job training. The opportunities are out there—buildings to retro-fit, solar installations, water conservation, open-space landscaping, green demolition and green building, wind turbine installations and much more. These jobs are pathways out of poverty, and other cities across the country, such as Tallahassee, Fla., and Atlanta, Ga., are following in the footsteps of Oakland, and working to establish programs of their own.

Habtegeorgis stresses that there are segments of our population who keep missing the boat when it comes to financial security, and that this time, things are going to be different. The green movement needs to mobilize, he says, and when it does, the workers need to be there. Members of our community must be galvanized, not only to save the earth, but to employ our cities from within. These are jobs that cannot be outsourced, and the need is already growing. If the demand is put on the cities to provide jobs, training and opportunities, then new avenues will be opened that will not only provide financial security for many, but will open the doors of the environmental movement, thus breaking down the current paradigm of “green for those that can afford it.”

In order to turn the tide on global warming, we all need to buy into the idea of carbon reduction and green technology. The Green for All Campaign will ensure that this happens in a way that will benefit all, not just a select few. According to the Green Jobs Campaign, a green-collar job is a good-paying manual labor job in green business, offering opportunity for advancement. The upcoming Green for All event is a chance to be a voice in your community and to hold city leaders accountable for the direction the city will take. For those already suffering from the blight of the recession and the end of the housing boom, this is an event not to be missed.

Green for All is scheduled for Saturday, March 29, from 1pm to 4pm, at the Chops Teen Center, 509 Adams St., Santa Rosa. For details, call 707.824.2248 or 707.545.6460. For more info on Green for All, visit www.greenforall.org or [ http://www.ellabakercenter.org/ ]www.ellabakercenter.org.


First Bite

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E ditor’s note: First Bite is a new concept in restaurant writing. This is not a go-three-times, try-everything-on-the-menu report; rather, this is a quick snapshot of a single experience. We invite you to come along with our writers as they—informed, intelligent eaters like yourselves—have a simple meal at an area restaurant, just like you do.

The never-ending drumbeat of the pregnant woman is, “Give me delicious, interesting food and give it to me now .” And because conflict is the blessed spice of life, throw in a husband who, if not for intervention, would subsist solely on pizza and Oreos. Now, watch us try to decide on a place to eat, quickly and without angst. Luckily, the perfect compromise between exotic and ordinary exists at Rohnert Park’s Pita Cafe. Stomachs growling, the preggo took the obliging husband to sample its Mediterranean delights.

An oasis in a strip mall, Pita has the corner on coziness, featuring dim lights, linen tablecloths and quiet music. Upon seating ourselves and being greeted by a friendly waitress, we took a brief glance at the menu and decided on Moroccan mint green iced tea ($2.25), a delightfully spicy mix of dark green tea with floating mint leaves.

We started with dolmas ($5.95), seasoned rice tightly wrapped in grape leaves. The grape leaves had a vinegar tang reminiscent of gourmet olives and were a bit too kicky for our taste buds. Other appetizers are offered, but if you’re budget-conscious, they are not a necessity, as the entrée portions are more than generous.

Dinner choices can be challenging, considering the variety that is offered. Should I follow prenatal law and order a Greek salad ($9.75), with all those vitamin-y mixed greens, tomatoes, bell peppers, cucumbers, olives, feta cheese and basil vinaigrette, or a big bowl of lentil soup ($4.95)? Nah. I opted for indulgence with a falafel wrap ($8.25)—crispy falafel patties, tomato, and pickles with hummus spread and tahini sauce. One bite of crunchiness sent me into falafel heaven.

For those husbands whose happy eyes water at the sight of the good ol’ beef-burger-on-a-bun with french fries ($8.50), rejoice to know that this is the one American choice on the menu. This husband, however, lived it up with the chicken shawarma ($8.95), thin slices of grilled marinated chicken with tomato, garlic spread, pickles and parsley with a side of parsley-sprinkled french fries ($1 extra). He commented that it was just like the food he had eaten while on a month-long trip to Israel, earning it a shiny gold star for authenticity. The meltingly marinated shawarma was decidedly our favorite.

In the continued spirit of indulgence, we ordered baklava ($2.50) for dessert. A palm-sized cube of thin, crispy, walnut-encrusted filo dough layers was the perfect palate-pleaser to conclude our rich and filling meal.

Pita Cafe is best kept to a once-in-a-while treat. Tempting choices of fried foods and rich sauces abound, though crisp green salads are available. This post-dinner preggo was fully content, though, and the baby even began kicking approvingly. Uh-oh. I think he’s developed a taste for falafel. I better get back on the spinach salad train.

Pita Cafe Mediterranean Grill, 6585 Commerce Blvd., Ste. #C, Rohnert Park. Open for lunch and dinner daily. 707.588.9522.



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Lynn Woolsey on the Iraq War’s Fifth

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“Five years ago today, President Bush took to the oval office to tell the world that the invasion of Iraq was underway. Five years later our country finds itself in an unwinnable quagmire, a failure so great that it will forever overshadow the lengthy list of President Bush’s other disappointments and missed opportunities during his eight years in office.“The invasion of Iraq has cost us the lives of nearly 4,000 of our nation’s bravest and brightest men and women. Fathers and mothers, brothers and sisters, have been taken from their families and loved ones, which represent the greatest and most horrific sacrifice that any nation could ever be forced to bear.“But theirs has not been the only sacrifice. So far, over 40,000 Americans have returned from Iraq with the irreparable physical and mental wounds of war – scars that will last for their rest of their lives, and will affect them in ways that we can’t even imagine. And hundreds of thousands of Iraqi civilians have been caught in the cross fire of a violent civil war that has further propelled Iraq into darkness and hopelessness.“And then there is the financial cost of this President’s mistake, which Nobel Laureate Economist Joseph Stiglitz recently projected will cost our nation at least $3 trillion over the next decade. What is most damning about this figure, however, is the lost opportunity costs that it represents. At a time when some children are forced to learn in crumbling schools, when too many seniors are forced to chose between putting food on their table and buying the prescription drugs that they need to survive, when homeowners wonder how they will keep pace with their rising mortgage payments, and most jarring of all, when our veterans, the very people that this President sent to war in the first place, are forced to wait for months to see a doctor, we are spending over $11 billion a month on an unwinnable occupation.“That’s why so many of us continue to voice our opposition, day in, and day out. We’re fighting on behalf of every family who will lose a loved one while fighting in Iraq, every family who will struggle even though they live in the richest country in the world, and on behalf of the people of Iraq who want to control their own destiny.“At this hour, at any hour, our nation is better than this. It’s far past time that we help restore America’s reputation in the world, refocus our energy on rebuilding our own country, and return Iraq to the Iraqi people. Our troops have done everything that has been asked of them, it’s time to bring them home.”

Hey Va-Jay-Jay

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03.26.08


Last weekend, three iconic plays about women and sexuality opened multiweek runs in three separate Sonoma County theaters, all on the very same night. The shows are Eve Ensler’s groundbreaking Vagina Monologues, Willy Russell’s acclaimed one-woman play Shirley Valentine and David Mamet’s controversial battle-of-the-sexes drama Oleanna.

In early March, in the midst of rehearsals, the Bohemian invited all three casts to sit down for a roundtable conversation. Present were actors Maria Grazia Affinito, Carmalita Shreve, Shannon Veon Kase and Alicia Sedwick of The Vagina Monologues, along with that show’s director Hector Correa, plus actors Gwen Kingston and Tim Kniffin of Oleanna, and Shirley Valentine herself, Mary Gannon Graham. Pizza was served.

To start the conversation off, each cast was asked to describe their show in terms of the message it makes or its underlying questions about the attitudes of women and men regarding sex and sexuality.

“Well, The Vagina Monologues is about women,” said Shannon Veon Case. “It’s about women and their struggle with their sexuality, their struggles with themselves, with relationships, with whatever’s been happening in their lives, and—”

“It’s a celebration of vaginas,” Hector Correa interjected. “That’s what I tell people it is. It’s about accepting your vagina, embracing your vagina. If there is a message in the play, it’s that you are your vagina.”

“Does that go for men as well as women?” Tim Kniffin asked.

“Of course it does,” Maria Grazia Affinito said.

“The world would be much better if men got in touch with their inner vaginas,” Kase said.

“To me,” Affinito continued, “the vagina represents the deep, secret place that no words can explain or express. With this play, that remote, mystical, secret place now has words and expressions, and we,” she said, gesturing to her fellow TVM performers, “get to deliver those words. It’s a privilege, really, to do this show.”

“I feel that way about Shirley Valentine,” said Mary Gannon Graham. “For me, this is the story of a woman on a spiritual journey. She’s found herself trapped by the things that have been expected of her all of her life—to grow up, to meet the boy, to get married, to have children, to live in a little house and go to work and blah blah blah blah until she dies. She’s lost herself. There’s a part of the play where she talks about her unused life, and how we all carry around the weight of this unused life, so when she’s given a gift by a friend, an opportunity to go to Greece, she leaves her home and husband, and ultimately she finds herself again. She finds it through sexual healing. She finds it, as she describes it, through discovering her clitoris, or her cli-tor-is, as she pronounces it.”

“Hey, our plays are related!” Alicia Sedwick laughed.

“They really are,” Graham agreed. “They both talk about vaginas clearly and proudly.”

Not so with Oleanna.

Directed by Linda Reid with no overt discussion of genitalia, this intense drama entails a power struggle between a college professor and the young women who accuses him of sexual harassment. It is, as Gwen Kingston pointed out, a play with no message, only questions.

“If we knew what our play was saying, we wouldn’t have a play,” Kingston said. “It’s a play about sexual power, power over someone else’s life, power to help or to hurt.”

“It’s interesting,” Tim Kniffin said, “because when I tell people I’m in Oleanna, there have been people who say, ‘Oh, you’re playing the asshole!’ and I think, ‘Really? Is that the case?’ I don’t know. It’s not that simple. It’s not Mamet saying, ‘Here, this is what I want you to think.’ He’s giving the actors five or ten choices to play, and so every member of the audience is going to have a different reaction.”

“The way in which he does or does not abuse his power over her,” Kingston added, “is not entirely a sexual thing. That’s the label she chooses to put on it, but it’s also about the way she believes he’s using his power over her in a more complicated, intellectual, psychological way, to manipulate her and make her uncomfortable. If it were overtly sexual, it would be a lot less complex and ambiguous.”

“You talk about sexual abuse,” Sedwick said, “abuse is strongly implied in [The Vagina Monologues]. Hector, as the director, has been very careful not to have us victimize what our characters have gone through, just to tell their stories honestly. But there are some uncomfortable pieces. The graphic stuff is squirmy, and as an actor playing it, it makes me squirmy, the descriptions of violence against women, it’s—”

“Squirmy,” Kase repeated.

“One thing that my director, John Shillington, has been clear with,” Graham said, “is that Shirley Valentine—though you could say she’s the victim of abuse, or at least neglect—is not to be played as a victim. She’s a survivor. She’s not a weak woman, but she’s woken up to see that she’s in a situation she has to do something about, so—”

“So she takes action,” Correa suggested. “I know that play. It’s a wonderful play. She takes action, and when you take action, you stop being a victim.”

Asked if everyone anticipated a larger number of women attending these shows than men, and how they feel about that possibility, Sedwick laughed.

“I think the question is, will the men who show up make it all the way through the play?” she said.

Affinito added, “I had a man come to me and say, about Vagina Monologues, ‘I don’t really know if I can come to that show. I don’t know if I can handle it.’ And I said, ‘Well, then that just means you’re ready for the experience.'”

It is suggested that some men might worry that, as a gender, they will be perceived as the villains in all of these shows.

“A lot of people think I’m the villain in my play,” Kingston exclaimed. “When Oleanna was first produced, the opening-night audience booed the girl at the end. Maybe men aren’t always the villains.”

“That goes back to what I was saying,” Kniffin said. “Who the villain is isn’t that obvious or clear. Maybe it’s not even important. I suspect that’s true in all of these shows.”

“Right. Nothing’s all black or all white,” Graham agreed.

The Vagina Monologues’ Carmalita Shreve, who had been silent through much of this conversation, finally spoke up.

“About the Vagina Monologues,” she said. “When this play opened up in San Francisco several years ago, quite honestly, I didn’t want to see it. I thought, ‘I know all the terrible things that happen to vaginas in this world. I don’t need to see that.’ I thought it was going to be all boom-boom-boom to the vagina. And then I read the script, and it wasn’t so boom-boom-boom, actually. This play invites people to think deeply and to delve into their own feelings. I’d like men to come to this Vagina, I invite them to come, and maybe they will go away with a different mind-set or some sort of understanding. I think men can walk away from this play, maybe all three plays, realizing that the vagina is an amazing and mysterious and precious thing.”

“That was beautiful, Carmalita,” Affinito praised.

“It was beautiful,” Correa said. “Of course, you do know you said you hope men will come to this vagina. It sounded kind of dirty.”

“That’s not what I meant, Hector!” Shreve said.

“But, hey, if men do, what a great reaction right?” Kase laughed. “I mean, talk about a standing ovation!”

‘Oleanna’ runs Friday&–Sunday through April 12. Friday&–Saturday at 8pm; Sunday at 2pm. Studio Theatre, Sixth Street Playhouse, 52 W. Sixth St., Santa Rosa. $12&–$18. 707.523.4185.

PASCO presents ‘The Vagina Monologues’ Thursday&–Sunday through April 13. Thursday at 7:30pm; Friday&–Saturday at 8pm; Sunday at 2:30pm. Spreckels Performing Arts Center, 5409 Snyder Lane, Rohnert Park. $17&–$20; Thursday, $15. 707.588.3400.

‘Shirley Valentine’ plays Thursday&–Saturday through April 27; also April 20 and 27. Thursday&–Saturday at 8pm; Sunday matinees at 2pm. Sonoma County Repertory Theater, 104 N. Main St., Sebastopol. $18&–$23; Thursday, pay what you can. 707.823.0177.


Museums and gallery notes.

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Hist-Hop

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03.26.08

W ith his shaggy hair and white-rimmed glasses, Chris Peck seems just another indie rock kid subscribing to the Weezer school of geek chic. Upon meeting him, it’s hard to believe he’s Peck the Town Crier, the local musician whose innovative hip-hop, jazz and funk fusion invades Bedrock Records on March 30 and Sweetwater Station on April 16. But when Peck opens his mouth, his enthusiastic and unpretentious mix of California and b-boy colloquialisms leaveno doubt of his artistic eccentricities. “I’m not really efficient at, like, spreading the word or marketing myself,” he tells me, sipping his java, “but I am a mystical soldier of writing new shit.”

As he speaks, I can’t stop hearing his song “Coffee,” where rhymes and plastic-soul croons are buoyed by a marching band drumbeat. “It turns my world around / Keeps me from sinking down / It turns from black to brown / You add a little cream / It’s a whole new scene.” While this tongue-in-cheek offering may recall Beck or Har Mar Superstar, Peck is less schticky and more organic. On his new album, Groundhog’s Day , he brings a sincere, scholarly reverence to every style explored, from the be-bop of “Jump for Joy” and the soulful p-funk of “Underwear,” to the honky-tonk of “The Widow and the Wasp” and cheerleader stomp of “Shout!”

“I call it hist-hop,” he says of his music, “because we’re pulling from all kinds of roots of weird old American music.” His lyrics are just as eclectic, combining refreshingly positive affirmations with quaint stories. “Some songs are colorful little jokes that happen through hangin’,” he says. “The fabric of ‘the hang’ ends up in my raps.”

Peck the Town Crier is a phenomenon that could only have come from Marin, and it began with Peck learning guitar at the Saint Mark’s School’s fertile music curriculum, which was rife with rock-star parents. “I remember the drummer from Journey, Steve Smith, played with us in fifth grade,” he says. “It was a face-melting experience.” By the time he graduated from the Branson School, he’d already completed Your Tape Machine’s Not Broken, recorded on a four-track reel-to-reel.

Through school shows and sitting in at the short-lived San Rafael club Jazzed, Peck became hooked on performing. “It was a way to shine and have an alter ego,” he says. His current brand of eccentric theatricality features tear-away trousers and even a wall of clapping hands. “It was somewhat of a disaster onstage,” he admits with a laugh, “but a charming disaster.”

As a student at NYU, he was part of the jazz department, but a bout of severe tendonitis made him unable to play any instruments at all for weeks at a time. It proved serendipitous in the end. “I used to make my guitar sound good, and everything else was an afterthought,” he says. “But when I couldn’t play, I started turning into more of a composer, playing with all these musical Lego’s instead of playing just one.”

Nevertheless, California was calling him back, especially after one spring back home. “I met energy healers and people who grew weed and people who were into weird local music that I couldn’t have heard in NewYork,” he says, still sounding excited. “I got more music written here than I had in years. I went back to New York and said, ‘As soonas I graduate, I’m moving back, and it’s gonna be, like, on !'”

And it has been “on” ever since, with endless projects like “Le Chronique,” an upcoming concert series in San Francisco that will utilize his improvisational jazz training to blend looping with live instrumentation. “I need to stay connected to the old ways, not something that is trumped up by the machine,” Peck says. “I need to be part of the continuum of the really raging, aesthetically sharp shit.”

Peck the Town Crier performs on Sunday, March 30, in a ‘parking lot hoedown’ at Bedrock Records, 2226 Fourth St., San Rafael. 2pm. Free. 415.258.9745. On Wednesday, April 16, he appears as part of the Comcast Battle of the Bands at the Sweetwater Station, 500 Magnolia Ave., Larkspur. 7pm. Free. 415.388.7769.


Branded Man

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music & nightlife |

True Country: Merle Haggard appears April 2 in Santa Rosa.

By Gabe Meline

T urn on country radio these days, listen for a half-hour or so, and without fail, an atrocious slice of dreck will air, following this essential structure:

Verse: When I was a wild kid, my parents used to tell me this thing!

Chorus: The thing!

Verse: Now I’m all grown up, and I tell my own kids the thing!

Chorus: The thing!

Bridge: Ain’t life funny that way?

Chorus: The thing!

The “thing,” of course, is usually some kind of catchy phrase with a double meaning, which allows listeners to believe they’re smart for figuring it out. Lately, especially with acts like Big & Rich, the “thing” is blatantly stolen from hip-hop slang, which offers the listener a delusion of street cred. Worst of all, in the modern country tradition, the “thing” always toes the aw-shucks, what-can-you-do, that’s-how-life-is line.

Somewhere, Merle Haggard is shaking his head at all this sentimental novelty bullshit and wondering where things went wrong. Ask any country star about Merle Haggard, and they’ll fall all over themselves to prove they love the guy, but apparently, no one in Nashville has heard any of his perfectly written songs.

Everyone knows the story about Johnny Cash performing at Folsom Prison, but not everyone knows that Merle Haggard was in the audience, an inmate at the time serving a 15-year sentence for robbery. It wasn’t until years later, after weaving this wizened worldview into hit after hit, that he had the chance to tell Cash face to face how much he’d been inspired to shape up, get out of prison and get back to writing songs.

“Branded Man,” “Whatever Happened to Me,” “Life in Prison”—they all tell the tale in Haggard’s unflinchingly authentic voice of Oklahoma dust bowls, Texas oil fields, California plains, places where Haggard soared and worked and drank and broke the law and fell in love.

Haggard’s dad died when he was nine, and his mother, Flossie Mae, struggled to raise her kids right. Haggard ran away to Texas, got arrested, wound up in juvie, ran away, wound up in prison, got out, got sent back. The song? “Mama Tried.”

In prison, he was offered a breakout plan by a fellow inmate. He turned it down, but the inmate escaped, eventually shooting a cop and landing himself on death row. The song? “Sing Me Back Home.”

Once out of prison for good, he teamed up with Buck Owens to create the “Bakersfield sound” of the 1960s. Then he flew up to Seattle, stole Owens’ wife and married her in Tijuana two weeks later. The song? “Just Between the Two of Us.”

Any album during Haggard’s late ’60s heyday on Capitol Records is a haystack full of golden needles. For every hit like “Silver Wings,” “Hungry Eyes” and “The Bottle Let Me Down,” there are fantastic undiscovered gems like “The Son of Hickory Holler’s Tramp,” which describes Mom as the town whore who turns tricks to support the family after Dad leaves, or bizarre tunes like “The Girl Turned Ripe,” about a girl who turns 18 and has a “great long line of pickers” in waiting. Misogynist or, in the days before Barely Legal , merely true? And how to reconcile it against his latest song, “Hillary,” which recommends “a big switch of gender” and urges “let’s put a woman in charge”?

Haggard’s politics, like his life, are notoriously scattered and messy. The guy behind “Okie from Muskogee” and “The Fightin’ Side of Me” has since eschewed the redneck anthems, and since 2001, when the entire industry of country songwriters has either gone limp or stupid, he’s demanded that we get out of Iraq with “America First” and criticized conservative media with “That’s the News.” At the same time, he sings duets with Gretchen Wilson about the flag and the Bible, and he’s also still writing excellent heartfelt material, songs like “If I Could Only Fly” and “Learning to Live with Myself.”

As long as he doesn’t cave in and start writing songs about the “thing,” he’ll always be all right in my book.

 

Merle Haggard appears on Wednesday, April 2, at the Wells Fargo Center, 50 Mark West Springs Road. Santa Rosa. 8pm. $15–$85. 707.546.3600.




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Photograph by Charlie Gesell
Porcine Passion: Chef Charlie Palmer (center), chef Philippe Rispoli and Eric, one of Palmer’s twin sons, hold forth in Healdsburg.

By Carey Sweet

F rom snout to tail, rustic pig is all the rage these days with top chefs. So celebrity chef Charlie Palmer, founder of the all-things-hog Pigs & Pinot festival held March 14–15 in Healdsburg, had a pivotal tip for would-be cooks hoping to duplicate his exquisite porcine cuisine at home.

“Become a good client in a very good restaurant,” he said, looking up from a pan of veal stock he’d been reducing for a sauce to serve over slow-roasted pork cheeks. “Spend a lot of money there and make friends with the chef. Then, when you need special ingredients, like a couple of pounds of cheeks or a few quarts of stock, he’ll give them to you.”

He flashed a grin to show he was joking. Or maybe that he wasn’t.

It may have been an odd thing for a chef to say in the middle of a Saturday-morning cooking class he hosted as part of Pigs & Pinot—particularly one where attendees had paid $150 for the privilege of uncovering a famous kitchen master’s deepest secrets—but it was refreshingly realistic.

Because, while the premise of the class, staged as a centerpiece to the third annual gala, was to demonstrate how to turn inexpensive cuts into something sublime, what students really learned was this: Crafting rustic pork parts into something special can be pretty hard work. As Palmer led students through two hours of slicing, dicing, mixing and mashing, it became increasingly clear that the reality of transforming trotters to estouffade might be better left to the professionals.

As pig offal—those oft-tossed parts like cheeks, head, feet, tail and internal organs—has become increasingly popular on expensive restaurant plates, its recipes have garnered great appeal. What was once peasant food is now immensely popular with the high-end set, showing up at such classy spots as Bovolo (Healdsburg), Zazu (Santa Rosa), Santi (Geyserville), Syrah (Santa Rosa), Madrona Manor (Healdsburg) and Palmer’s own eatery, the Dry Creek Kitchen adjacent to the Healdsburg Hotel. The Secret Eating Society hosts its own take on offal from a wide range of animals April 12 in conjunction with Amphora Winery.

And why not? The idea of filling our kitchens with excellent, savory, piggy-rich smells is seductive; impressing our friends with homemade pâté is noble. Except how many typical home chefs really want to spend hours doing what the chefs do: slaving over a hot stove making stock (roasting bones and vegetables, skimming froth, simmering up to 14 hours, sieving and such)? And if we did, how many typical grocery stores keep offal in their coolers for an impromptu meal of blood sausage? (Santi chef Dino Bugica, for example, crafts his with pork skin, back fat, pine nuts and currants.)

Working with his partner chef Philippe Rispoli (trained at Daniel Boulud Brasserie at Wynn, MGM Mansion and Charlie Palmer’s Aureole of Las Vegas), Palmer demonstrated the long road taken to turn leftovers into luxury. A pâté de champagne blends boneless pork shoulder, pork belly fat, veal escalope and chicken livers with pistachios and cognac under a thick, glistening cummerbund of barding fat. He made it look easy at first, feeding the chunked meat into a big, shiny red grinder set up on the counter of the new Relish Culinary Adventures cooking center that’s opened in a beautiful building next door to the Healdsburg Hotel. The recipe is also a great way to use up scraps of venison, duck, what-have-you from your hunting trips, he said.

Yet after its approximate three-hour prep and cooking time, the pâté should sit for at least three days, so its flavors can intensify.

“Make it Sunday,” he shrugged, sprinkling quatre épices into the meat mixture for a heady aroma of cinnamon, clove, nutmeg and pepper. “Make a lot. Eat it all week, and give a couple [terrines] to your neighbors.”

Then call the paramedics. Because while savoring old-fashioned pork isn’t easy, Palmer isn’t pretending it’s healthy, either. Acidic pairings are necessary to cut the pure grease and make it so delicious, he explained, which is why many countrified pig plates come with cornichons, powerful mustards (homemade, of course) or, naturally, a perfect Pinot.

The best way to make a dish like Palmer’s braised pork belly with caraway and sauerkraut is to start with belly (bacon that’s uncured and unsmoked) from a heritage farmer, Palmer and Rispoli said. Heritage pigs are allowed to roam free, feed their natural omnivorous diets and develop deep-red, fatty meat. Commercially raised pork becomes “the other white meat” only from anemia, which is why it’s lean yet often dry, bland and tough. (A recent Cook’s Illustrated test, in fact, found that heritage breed pork butt has 50 percent more fat than supermarket butt, while old-fashioned pork chops tip the chart at 210 percent more fat than the usual grocery staple.)

Asked where to locate the specialty meat, Rispoli held up a snapshot of two handsome, spotted Berkshire pigs and pointed to a gentleman sitting in the back row of the class. His family farm raises boutique animals in Missouri, and what the students had been sampling was donated by a six-month-old pair weighing in at about 225 pounds each.

After securing the belly, the intrepid chef needs to cure it. After a deep caramelizing in oil, the meat, so fatty that it’s self-basting, is slow-braised for several hours until it emerges from its bath of white wine, onion, potatoes and sauerkraut gorgeously succulent; it bites tooth-tender then melts into the mouth with a rich, creamy center.

Palmer arranged the finished cheeks on a dollop of ultrasmooth polenta, which had magically appeared from Relish’s rear kitchen. The meat had been braised in Pinot, chopped heirloom tomatoes and a flurry of plucked-from-the-earth root vegetables, and its savory juices seeped into the grits. Barely two ounces of meat made each serving, yet it was lusty enough to almost make a full meal.

These aren’t dishes he makes at home, he admitted as the students devoured his handiwork. Rather, a quick meal at casa de Palmer might be a much simpler crispy panko pork schnitzel with fresh-squeezed Meyer lemon. He also doesn’t use lots of gadgets like he had in the Relish kitchen, or numerous pots and pans, because someone (him) has got to clean it all up.

Palmer didn’t need to voice his final tip. After all, the current “spring neighbor menu” at Dry Creek Kitchen features a course of slow-braised kurobuta pork cheeks in a Szechuan pepper-corn-infused pork jus. The only thing required to make? Reservations.

H ere’s an elegant riff on pork and beans that’s far removed from Van de Camp’s. Yet the premise still holds for that wonderful pairing of legumes and pure pork blubber: the fat rounds out the beans’ earthy flavor and makes a simple dish impossibly rich and savory. The boiled technique utilized below is a riff on the Italian “bolliti misto” style of cooking that adds extra flavor to the lentils. The recipe comes from Charlie Palmer’s “try this at home” recommendation.

Salt Pork with Lentils

Serves: a lot. Plan a dinner party, or freeze in small batches for multiple meals.

18 ounces spare ribs

14 ounces salted pork loin

14 ounces. ham

7 ounces salted pork belly

2 1/2 c. lentils

1 large onion stuck with two cloves

2 carrots

3 leeks

bouquet garni: sprig of fresh thyme, dried bay leaf, several sprigs of fresh parsley handful black peppercorns 16 ounces fresh sausage, such as sweet Italian or garlic sausage

Thickly slice all the pork, except for the spare ribs. Place all the pork, spare ribs, salted loin, ham and pork belly in cold water for at least two hours. Rinse all the pieces, place in a stock pot and cover with plenty of cold water, bring to a boil, skim thoroughly and reducing heat to simmer for one hour. Pick over lentils, then wash, drain and place in a saucepan. Cover with water and cook for 15 minutes. Drain lentils and add to the meat. Add onion, carrots, leeks, bouquet garni and peppercorns. Simmer for 45 minutes, skimming from time to time. Add sausage, then cook for another 40 minutes. Remove all the meat and reserve in a warm place. Discard the bouquet garni and drain the lentils. Place in a large serving dish and arrange the sliced meat on top; drizzle with reduced balsamic vinegar (see below).

Balsamic Syrup

8 ounces good quality balsamic vinegar

Put vinegar in a small saucepan and reduce over medium heat until vinegar is thick and syrupy. Drizzle over sliced meat and lentils.

The Secret Eating Society hosts “An Offal(y) French Menu” in conjunction with Amphora Winery and Sonoma Direct lamb on Saturday, April 12, at 6pm. Amphora, 4791 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg. $115. 707.431.7767.



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