Play at the Pump

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‘I don’t want to say millennials,” says James Harder, co-owner of Tank Garage Winery in Calistoga, when asked how the wine industry has changed in the last decade. He doesn’t really have to.

Tank Garage, situated in a restored 1930s service station on Highway 128, speaks volumes to the new wave of the region’s winetasting culture. With its hip, old-meets-new exterior, vintage pinball machines and a slick “speakeasy” lounge in the back, the new project from two wine-industry veterans is as millennial-friendly as they come: experiential, photogenic, easy on the educational info and big on fun.

Tank Garage is a joint venture of Jim Regusci, a third-generation Napa Valley native and owner of Regusci Winery, and Harder, formerly a VP at Vincor International and currently the owner of James Cole Winery and T-Vine Winery. As with many local projects utilizing historical locations, Tank Garage’s inception was lengthy and involved endless permits and a detailed restoration process, not to mention hauling all the antiques from Harder’s vast art deco collection to the property.

“There are so many chateaux, historic farmhouses, castles,” Harder says, “but we wanted something that the consumer, or the emerging consumer, won’t be intimidated by.”

Tank Garage brings play and experimentation into the wine as well. Both Harder and Regusci’s wineries specialize in Cabernet Sauvignon, “but Tank lets us experiment,” Harder says. How? By outsourcing grapes from all over Northern California and creating blends, which 30-year-old winemaker Bertus van Zyl, originally from Cape Town, South Africa, bottles and pours for the crowds. Harder calls it “stylistic winemaking”—not relying on one site, but blending and being creative.

Catchy names and bold labels are part of the fun at Tank Garage. Stars Like Ours rosé (a blend of Pinot Noir, Grenache Noir and Syrah Noir) comes with a vintage photo illustrated with red stars. The All or Nothing red is adorned with a surreal painting. Boy Loves Girl is a white blend with a Roy Lichtenstein–style label. The label for the Nothing Gold Can Stay Chardonnay was designed by Bronx graffiti artist T-Kid. Bottles range from $30 to $65.

“I came in the business over 20 years ago and everything was bound by tradition,” says Harder. “I think the emerging consumer—people that have been coming into the wine game in the recent 10 years—knows there are no rules, especially with all the craft beers and mixology going on. They have no preconceived notions.”

These consumers might even end up contributing to the label. Harder recalls a customer taking a photo of her dad at the winery that later appeared on the label of a limited-edition wine called Hannah’s Dad. This anything-goes attitude is very much in the Tank Garage style.

“You want to talk about wine,” says Harder. “We’ll tell you about it, but you want to talk about weather, pinball, sports team? We’re game too. We have an approach of talking with [customers], not to them.”

You don’t have to be a millennial to enjoy that.

The Ugly Truth

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The Bundy Boys have been acquitted, and the militias are inflamed,

It’s a green light for the white right, the system can be gamed.

They’re above the law, it’s a huge flaw, no jury will convict them.

They say, ‘Like Dr. King, it was a peaceful thing, we’re not the criminal, we’re the victim.’

The government was overreachin’, we’re wrapped in the flag, and we’re just preachin’

The guns were only for self-defense; if the feds cracked down, that’s just common sense.

The Constitution guarantees that right; it’s them or us in a firefight.

I love my country when things go my way; if not, I guess there’ll be hell to pay.

I was shocked by the acquittal of the Bundys and their supporters. The Bundys see themselves as above the law. This verdict affirmed that. But imagine if they were black or Native American. If they weren’t killed at the refuge, they surely would have gotten life in prison. The Dakota Access Pipeline protesters, mostly Native Americans, are being treated with a much heavier hand during a peaceful protest. If they were armed, as the Bundys were, would they be treated differently? I’m afraid of the answer. In this regard, the history of the Black Panthers may be a cautionary tale as is the killing of people of color by police who are not held accountable.

Unfortunately, these right-wing extremists found their perfect spokesman in Donald Trump. I used to wonder how the Germans could have elected Hitler. Now I understand. Tens of millions of Americans voted for Trump. That’s a lot of people who can’t recognize someone who is delusional and dangerous.

There is an underlying toxic sludge that permeates this country. It is grounded in racism, a sense of entitlement, ignorance and a stunning level of denial. We have looked into distant galaxies and the tiny spaces inside of a cell, but we still cannot see past skin color to the humanity we all share and the destiny that awaits us all.

Moss Henry lives in Santa Rosa.

Open Mic is a weekly feature in the ‘Bohemian.’ We welcome your contribution. To have your topical essay of 350 words considered for publication, write op*****@******an.com.

Letters to the Editor: November 9, 2016

Kudos

Will Parrish’s “The Spigot” (Oct. 26) story is great journalism, well reported, clearly written and socially relevant. This is the kind of local reporting that the alternative weeklies were originally set up to do, because the mainstream corporates, such as the Press Democrat, have always ignored the lineaments of reality and do not produce journalism, but only advertising and political spin serving the Chamber of Commerce crowd. But I digress. Well done, Boho, and keep it up!

Petaluma

Election 2016

At election time, I always look for thoughtful endorsements such as your voter guide in the Bohemian‘s election issue. Since many of us these days vote by mail and are encouraged to fill out our ballots and mail them early, it would be helpful for you to publish this issue around the time that the mail-in ballots are sent out. I recommend that you follow this suggestion and then at this time, just before the election, you publish a simple clip-and-save list style voter guide for those who vote on election day or mail in ballots later.

Petaluma

Editor’s Note: Message received, Harry. We will be publishing future election issues earlier.

Thank you for your endorsement of Measure V in Sonoma. Unfortunately, however, you gave the impression Measure V bans all leaf blowers; it only bans gas-powered ones. Electric and battery-operated leaf blowers will still be completely legal to use in Sonoma if Measure V passes.

I also appreciate your endorsement of Proposition 56, the $2 increase in the cigarette tax. The campaign of lies by the opponents of 56 gives new meaning to the term “shameless.”

Sonoma

Next election, I will wait until your election issue is published before mailing my ballot in. The endorsements were so clearly written and understandable. Much more so than anything else I’ve read. Thank you!

Larkfield

Dept. of Corrections

In our list of endorsements (“2016 Voter Guide,” Nov. 2), we transposed Santa Rosa measures N and O. But we recommended a yes vote on both. We regret the error.

Write to us at le*****@******an.com.

Whiskey Tango Fun

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A note to sensitive readers and hipster sommeliers: the following story contains multiple references to the existence of bourbon-barrel-aged Zinfandel.

If you are not already laughing out loud or hissing like an angry cat at the idea, the very idea, this brief backgrounder is just for you. America’s “heritage grape,” Zinfandel has been made in a variety of styles, from rosé to late harvest, for over 150 years. But today, you’re just as likely to hear a particular Zin recommended for what it isn’t as for what it is. To wit: “This isn’t one of those big, jammy, high-alcohol Zins.”

To the current temperance movement that pervades the wine world—in curious contrast to “double this, triple that”–obsessed craft brewing and the excitement over cask-strength bottlings that energizes the spirits sector—just add this: ripe, boozy California Zinfandel aged in bourbon barrels. So how’s that going?

Surprisingly well, according to Bob Blue, VP of winemaking at Fetzer. “People have been really open to it,” says Blue, who has shopped the wine across the country as well as to overseas markets like Denmark. “They see it as innovation.” Blue says that his
1,000 Stories project grew out of a mix of personal experience and company brainstorming. In the 1980s, when he started working for Fetzer, they were growing fast but were undercapitalized. So, like some other wineries at the time, they bought used “bluegrass barrels” to age their Zinfandel and other reds, because expensive French oak barrels were in short supply.

Fetzer’s 2014 1,000 Stories Small Batch Bourbon Barrel-Aged California Zinfandel ($18.99) rotates through new and used bourbon barrels in 5,000-case batches—they get a kiss of charred American oak and sweet booze notes after aging in wine barrels. Batch 15 smells and tastes like a typical Zin, with Mexican chocolate spice, smoky oak and mixed berry jam. Warm, prickly tannins cross-stitch the palate, and while the finish lingers sweetly, as much from the slight residual sugar as from the subtle hint of whiskey, it’s not heavy. Blue, who formerly headed Bonterra’s organic wine program, says that balance is the key to an enjoyable wine, bourbon or no bourbon. Stylishly packaged, the brand contributes funds to the Wildlife Conservation Society and American Bison Society. ★★★★

Robert Mondavi Private Selection has also entered the bluegrass game with its 2014 Central Coast Bourbon Barrel Cabernet Sauvignon ($13.99). Once again, the barrels just highlight aspects that one finds in many a quality Cabernet: liqueur-like notes of cassis, oak char and vanilla. Somewhat sweet upfront, it’s plush throughout, and it remains solid after one day open—upping the score. Two wines may not make a trend, but this one should not be dismissed out of hand.★★★★

Shock Appeal

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Sex sells. It always has, because sex, when properly presented, has always had the ability to shock, and like it or not, people do enjoy the sensation of getting their juices flowing. Shock does that.

It’s part of what makes a box-office success out of a show like The Book of Mormon, with its giddily offensive sense of sacrilege, or the current Broadway sensation Hamilton, with its hip-hop-fueled score and racially blind casting. But will any of that be shocking in another 10 years?

This weekend, Marin County’s Ross Valley Players will unveil a new production of Gilbert and Sullivan’s 1878 H.M.S. Pinafore. The show about the crew of a naval vessel and its various interpersonal romantic problems is not just a musical masterpiece that has delighted people for 138 years; it’s an example of how shows that once shocked the establishment and made decent ladies blush, now seem thoroughly mainstream and unquestionably safe.

It goes the other way around, too. The Mikado, another G&S hit, was considered boldly forward-thinking for putting Japanese culture on the English stage. Talk about shocking. Today, it’s difficult to do The Mikado without causing accusations of racial stereotyping, challenging theaters to entirely reinterpret the original show for modern audiences, which are shocked by entirely different things.

That’s why it’s important to trot out such classics every now and then, as a reminder of how far we’ve come, and a test of how far we still have to go. As our culture changes, so do the ways our classic art changes, not in how it is presented necessarily (though punk-rock stagings of Gilbert and Sullivan are definitely a thing), but in how we ourselves react to it.

It’s almost impossible to believe that Gilbert and Sullivan, the great-granddads of British musical theater, were once considered a bit of a dangerous duo. But they were. In the late 1880s, their tuneful confections carried defiantly controversial challenges of the British class system, military incompetence, the bizarre rules of social society and the not-so-subtle absurdities of the ruling minority.

Much of that exists in H.M.S. Pinafore. Oh, and it has sex, too. Sort of. The very title, combining a piece of women’s clothing with a historically male naval designation, was definitely, to the Victorians in the audience, a bit shocking.

And definitely sexy.

Genius Jack

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Shortly before he died on Nov. 22, 1916, Jack London told his second wife, Charmian, “I will be smiling at death, I promise you.” Eight years earlier, in Martin Eden, his autobiographical novel, he wrote of his protagonist, “Death did not hurt. It was life, the pangs of life . . . it was the last blow life could deal him.”

Ever since London’s death in Glen Ellen 100 years ago, biographers have tried to explain why and how he died. Earle Labor, the author of Jack London: An American Life, the most recent biography, published in 2013, argues that he died a natural death. Others have insisted that London took his own life either accidentally or on purpose with an overdose of morphine. Clarice Stasz, a former Sonoma State University professor and the author of 1988’s American Dreamers: Charmian and Jack London, observes that, on the subject of suicide, “the verdict will always be out,” though she adds that it is “unlikely.”

On the anniversary of London’s death at the age of 40, scholars and fans all over the Bay Area are honoring the life and the work of the San Francisco–born, bestselling writer who fought for animal rights, farmed organically at Beauty Ranch, called for the prohibition of alcohol and hoped one day to see a socialist America.

Twice he ran for mayor of Oakland and lost. From about 1895 to 1916, he traveled almost nonstop, first as a hobo who rode the rails and then as a famous globetrotter, and, when he wasn’t farming and ranching in Glen Ellen in Sonoma County, he was surfing in Hawaii and popularizing the sport.

No California author lived more fully and more vigorously than London—no one loved life more than he—and probably no author hastened his own death more than he, not even F. Scott Fitzgerald, who lived four years longer than London.

In her two-volume biography of her husband, The Book of Jack London published in 1921, Charmian noted that he suffered from terrible headaches, insomnia, psoriasis, dysentery, pyorrhea, rheumatism, scurvy, and that with his diet “was nothing less than suicidal.”

A workaholic who often wrote a thousand words a day, day after day, he was one of the first celebrities to describe, in 1913, his own substance abuse in John Barleycorn, his “Alcoholic Memoirs,” about which he wrote “the only trouble, I must say . . . is that I did not put in the whole truth. . . . I did not dare put in the whole truth.”

What didn’t he dare say? That his biological parents weren’t married when they lived together in San Francisco in the 1870s, and that his mother, Flora Wellman, a spiritualist, put a gun to her head, pulled the trigger and wounded herself before she was taken, in “a half-insane condition,” to a doctor on Mission Street. That’s what the San Francisco Chronicle reported on June 4, 1875. Flora’s common-law husband, William Henry Chaney, abandoned her during her pregnancy and denied his son’s paternity when London wrote to ask about his origins before setting out for the Klondike to prospect for gold and to find himself.

Georgia Loring Bamford, the author of The Mystery of Jack London—one of the very first biographies of the author, published in 1931—understood implicitly his enigmatic, elusive identity that made it impossible to pin him down, or pigeonhole his work.

London wrote science fiction, tales of adventure and horror, travel narratives, a dystopian novel titled The Iron Heel that tells a riveting tale of oligarchy and revolution, a subject he discussed during a lecture tour that took him from the campus of UC Berkeley to Harvard and Yale, where he urged Ivy Leaguers to take to the streets and protest injustice and inequality.

Readers who don’t know anything about London might visit Jack London Square in Oakland or admire the plaque at Third Street and Brannan that marks his birthplace on Jan. 12, 1876. Those who want to know more can go to Jack London State Historic Park in Glen Ellen and view the ruins of Wolf House, his and Charmian’s dream house that was destroyed by fire in 1913, a tragedy that hastened his final decline.

Moreover, every Bay Area library and bookstore has Jack London’s books galore, though perhaps not all 50. One can start anywhere and jump around
from The Call of the Wild to
The Cruise of the Dazzler, Martin Eden, The Road, The People of
the Abyss
, The Scarlet Plague and The Star Rover, a bibliography that combines fantasy and time travel with an expose of prison conditions at San Quentin. Each book is different and each carries the unmistakable stamp of originality that belongs to the literary genius born John Griffith Chaney and whom the world knows as Jack London.

Music Machine

Will Toledo isn’t wasting any time. After all, he’s getting old.

Last October, Toledo’s band, Car Seat Headrest, released

Teens of Style. In May came Teens of Denial. Now, squeezing out the time between touring and moving out of his house, Toledo is already recording another album with Headrest.

“I’ve got ideas and I don’t want to sit on them,” Toledo says in a recent phone interview. “What we’ve laid down is just some band arrangements as a four-piece. So right now, it doesn’t sound too much different than Teens of Denial. But we’ll be adding more to it. I don’t want to give everything away. You’ll find out about it later.”

That kind of fast work is what Toledo imagined when he signed to Matador Records last year and began re-recording some of the best songs from his previous albums for Teens of Style.

“That was kind of the plan from the start,” Toledo says. “When I signed with Matador, it was three albums guaranteed. I kind of had an idea of what all of them would be. I wanted to do them before I got too old.” Toledo is 23.

Teens of Denial is Car Seat Headrest’s 13th album. That’s right, 13th album. From 2010 to 2014, Toledo, a Virginia native, self-released 11 lo-fi home-recorded albums on Bandcamp. He made most of those records while attending the College of William & Mary in Williamsburg, Va.

After graduating in 2014, Toledo moved to Seattle, where he had started to put together a group at about the same time he signed with Matador. “It worked out well, better than I would have hoped for, as far as finding a group that fit with the material and brought their vibe to it.”

Teens of Denial was recorded with Ethan Ives on guitar and bass, and drummer Andrew Katz. To complete the band, Toledo added Seth Dalby on bass.

“I’d always kind of imagined it as a four-piece,” Toledo says. “It works well.”

The breakout indie rock band of the year—actually of the last few Years—Car Seat Headrest have been touring extensively since the release of Teens of Denial, including a lengthy stint in Europe where they played festival after festival.

The Car Seat Headrest set, a propulsive affair, is a mixture of old and new, with the emphasis on the new.

“It’ll be about 60 percent Teens of Denial,” Toledo says. “It’s all such high-energy rock, we have to do a couple slow songs from the back material or we’d get wiped out.”

Listen to the Drought Cult’s Debut EP, “Moon Lust”

0008656749_10
Dark and drenched in reverb, the experimental indie rock coming from new Sonoma County trio the Drought Cult mixes engrossing hooks and fuzzed-out psychedelics for a lush dreamscape of sound.
Featuring long-time North Bay rockers–Francesco Echo on guitars and vocals, Jef Overn on bass and Anthony Vaccaro on drums–this is a new incarnation of music from the trio, who originally got together under Echo’s name earlier this year. Now armed with a forlorn edge and undercurrent of gloom, the Drought Cult have released their debut EP, Moon Lust, on bandcamp.
See the band live for the first time this weekend, as they join fellow Sonoma County rockers Manzanita Falls and San Francisco soul rock outfit Doncat for a show on Saturday, Nov 12, at HopMonk Tavern in Sebastopol. Copies of the Drought Cult’s EP will be available at the show, and you can get a listen right here, when you click on the player below.

Nov. 3: Stevensoniana in St Helena

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Famed author of ‘Treasure Island’ and ‘The Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde,’ Robert Louis Stevenson spent nine weeks in Napa Valley in the summer of 1880. Today, St. Helena’s Robert Louis Stevenson Museum is the world’s largest collection of his works and celebrates his ongoing literary legacy. This week, the museum presents an exhibition at the St. Helena’s local library, ‘The Story of Robert Louis Stevenson,’ that highlights the author’s life and works. The show opens with a reception and talk on Thursday, Nov. 3, at the St. Helena Public Library, 1492 Library Lane, St. Helena. 6pm. Free. 707.963.5244.

Nov. 4–6: Cinema Celebration in Santa Rosa

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One of wine country’s fastest-growing film festivals, OUTwatch, marks its third year with an offering of five feature films and three thought-provoking documentaries focused on LGBTQI issues revolving around the theme of “More Than Meets the Eye.” Screenings include ‘Political Animals,’ a documentary about fighting for LGBT equality in the California State Assembly. ‘Real Boy’ follows a young man finding his voice as a transgender singer-songwriter. And ‘Hunky Dory’ is a gritty and heart-warming film about a bisexual bohemian drag queen caring for his precocious pre-teen son. Special events include an opening-night party, live entertainment and more. OUTwatch runs Friday to Sunday, Nov. 4–6, at Third Street Cinemas, 620 Third St., Santa Rosa. $10–$75. outwatchfilmfest.org.

Play at the Pump

'I don't want to say millennials," says James Harder, co-owner of Tank Garage Winery in Calistoga, when asked how the wine industry has changed in the last decade. He doesn't really have to. Tank Garage, situated in a restored 1930s service station on Highway 128, speaks volumes to the new wave of the region's winetasting culture. With its hip, old-meets-new...

The Ugly Truth

The Bundy Boys have been acquitted, and the militias are inflamed, It's a green light for the white right, the system can be gamed. They're above the law, it's a huge flaw, no jury will convict them. They say, 'Like Dr. King, it was a peaceful thing, we're not the criminal, we're the victim.' The government was overreachin', we're wrapped in the flag,...

Letters to the Editor: November 9, 2016

Kudos Will Parrish's "The Spigot" (Oct. 26) story is great journalism, well reported, clearly written and socially relevant. This is the kind of local reporting that the alternative weeklies were originally set up to do, because the mainstream corporates, such as the Press Democrat, have always ignored the lineaments of reality and do not produce journalism, but only advertising and...

Whiskey Tango Fun

A note to sensitive readers and hipster sommeliers: the following story contains multiple references to the existence of bourbon-barrel-aged Zinfandel. If you are not already laughing out loud or hissing like an angry cat at the idea, the very idea, this brief backgrounder is just for you. America's "heritage grape," Zinfandel has been made in a variety of styles, from...

Shock Appeal

Sex sells. It always has, because sex, when properly presented, has always had the ability to shock, and like it or not, people do enjoy the sensation of getting their juices flowing. Shock does that. It's part of what makes a box-office success out of a show like The Book of Mormon, with its giddily offensive sense of sacrilege, or...

Genius Jack

Shortly before he died on Nov. 22, 1916, Jack London told his second wife, Charmian, "I will be smiling at death, I promise you." Eight years earlier, in Martin Eden, his autobiographical novel, he wrote of his protagonist, "Death did not hurt. It was life, the pangs of life . . . it was the last blow life could...

Music Machine

Will Toledo isn't wasting any time. After all, he's getting old. Last October, Toledo's band, Car Seat Headrest, released Teens of Style. In May came Teens of Denial. Now, squeezing out the time between touring and moving out of his house, Toledo is already recording another album with Headrest. "I've got ideas and I don't want to sit on them," Toledo says...

Listen to the Drought Cult’s Debut EP, “Moon Lust”

Dark and drenched in reverb, the experimental indie rock coming from new Sonoma County trio the Drought Cult mixes engrossing hooks and fuzzed-out psychedelics for a lush dreamscape of sound. Featuring long-time North Bay rockers–Francesco Echo on guitars and vocals, Jef Overn on bass and Anthony Vaccaro on drums–this is a new incarnation of music from the trio, who originally got...

Nov. 3: Stevensoniana in St Helena

Famed author of 'Treasure Island' and 'The Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde,' Robert Louis Stevenson spent nine weeks in Napa Valley in the summer of 1880. Today, St. Helena’s Robert Louis Stevenson Museum is the world’s largest collection of his works and celebrates his ongoing literary legacy. This week, the museum presents an exhibition at the...

Nov. 4–6: Cinema Celebration in Santa Rosa

One of wine country’s fastest-growing film festivals, OUTwatch, marks its third year with an offering of five feature films and three thought-provoking documentaries focused on LGBTQI issues revolving around the theme of “More Than Meets the Eye.” Screenings include 'Political Animals,' a documentary about fighting for LGBT equality in the California State Assembly. 'Real Boy' follows a young man...
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