Wine Tasting

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“Wine tasting.” Quick, what comes to mind? An alien invasion from planet Tommy Bahama? Although it’s a big hit with out-of-towners, sometimes for local residents, the activity suffers from the same “special occasion” stigma that wine itself does. At best, it’s something to do when the relations fly in. At worst, it’s tragically uncool.

(Overheard, one snarky video store employee said in reference to the movie Sideways, “If I wanted to see desperate loser wine tasters, I’d just go outside!” Ha ha! But over a decade ago it was the apogee of hip to grimly suck malt liquor out of 40-ounce bottles while wearing 1970s athletic apparel. You kids got anything new on that? I didn’t think so.)

It’s astounding, the locals young and old who have never been, or only “that one time.” Teetotalers notwithstanding, what’s not to like about free wine, offered in a kaleidoscope of ever-changing variety? Try before you buy? You don’t have to recite pseudo-technical babble to appease the angry wine gods. Wines and their characteristics are like people; you only really get to know them over time, so relax. Just don’t tie your sweater over your polo.

Kokomo Winery could hardly have made it easier. Their new little urban tasting room is right off Santa Rosa’s downtown freeway exit. View of a parking lot. No bucolic preciousness here, and on my evening visit–myself notwithstanding–no desperate losers.

Backstory: Kokomo means “here.” Where? Kokomo, Ind. Why? This guy Erik Miller lands in Dry Creek Valley, finds his calling, etcetera, names winery after his home town. And? Opens the tasting room in the one city that thinks it’s in the Midwest instead of the capital of wine country. That’s the best part.

So how’s the wine? Other than the sweet and crisp 2005 Mendocino County Sauvignon Blanc ($16), it’s about the reds. The 2005 Perotti Zinfandel ($22) nearly jumps up out of the glass to give a raspberry-flavored smooch on the nose. The 2005 Timber Crest Zinfandel ($26) took me on a pleasant ramble through a country junkyard, brambleberry vines spilling over rusted cars, a nostalgic whiff of oil. Yes, the 2005 Petite Sirah ($22) is tannic, don’t panic. Steak, blackberries and cigar–it’s an entrée, a dessert and a vice. The 2005 Pinot Noir ($45) hints subtly of smoked Tofurky and spice, while the 2005 Dry Creek Valley Syrah ($22) comes on like a forest fire, all pine cones and smoke.

But so much for what I say. Check it out for yourself. Kokomo offers food and special discounts at its grand opening on Sunday, April 15. Ooh, I wanna take you down to Kokomo Winery Tasting Room, 305 Davis St., Santa Rosa. Open daily, noon to 7pm. 707.542.6580.



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Fuel to the Fire

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Wasted: ‘Junk’ wine becomes fuel for cars when in the hands of the Green Energy Network geniuses.

Behind a one-time pencil manufacturing plant in the rolling hills south of Sebastopol, Damon Knutson is brewing the antidote to Big Oil. Using windfall apples and “junk” wine that local vintners can’t sell, he is out to demonstrate that decentralized production of ethanol from locally grown agricultural waste is beneficial and viable, both economically and environmentally.

Believing that “oil and our consumption of gasoline had a lot to do with what happened on 9-11,” Knutson dove into an exploration of alternative fuels, first studying hydrogen and then biodiesel before concluding that ethanol “seemed to be the best answer for renewable energy.” Having met other like-minded folks during those inquiries, he says, “We formed a group of community enthusiasts who use ‘E’ and are trying to promote the production and use of it.” Thus the Green Energy Network (GEN) was born, as a modern, socially acceptable application of an old, disreputable practice.

“We’re basically making moonshine,” Knutson explains cheerfully, showing off the newly cleared space where a low-tech, decidedly homemade apparatus is being set up. “Ethanol is alcohol, very strong alcohol, about 180 proof. You can actually burn about 140 proof, but if you’re going to mix it with gasoline, which is how we do it, you want to get the water out, and 180 proof is basically 90 percent alcohol and 10 percent water.”

Most members of the small collective use “splash blending” to combine the ethanol with conventional gasoline, usually in a ratio of 25 percent to 50 percent ethanol per tankful. “At 25 percent, you definitely notice more push,” reports Kevin Counter, an experienced mechanic and GEN member. That extra power comes with a slight decline in mileage–which becomes more noticeable as the ratio is increased–but a significant drop in exhaust emissions. Having tested 30-plus cars of varying age and make, Counter says, “Almost every car at 25 percent gets about half the emissions of the car on regular gas. It’s unreal how clean the car will run after its been running on 25 percent ethanol.”

Most any car produced since 1984–the year when rubber-based hoses and gaskets that can be dissolved by ethanol were phased out–can use splash blending without modification (although new model owners may find that doing so invalidates their warranty). “I’m using my Volvo with 50 percent, and it’s running great,” exults GEN enthusiast Tui Wilschinsky. “The sluggish Volvo engine is peppy.”Beginning with just a gallon or two of ethanol mixed with the usual petrol, Wilschinsky explains, “You slowly clean out your engine.” A more abrupt transition would “release so much crud, you’d gum up your engine.”

Higher concentrations do require some minor adaptations, but Knutson has converted his Nissan sedan to run at 85 percent ethanol. They have also modified a Taurus that now burns 95 percent, and the new generation of “flex-fuel” vehicles coming out of Detroit are manufactured to operate at the E-85 standard, 85 percent ethanol.

Initially, GEN “imported” corn-based ethanol from Nebraska, just to have fuel on hand to experiment with. But the larger vision was always to produce their own, which they first did with a gift of “27 cases of bad wine,” donated, Knutson says, by a local vintner who would prefer to remain anonymous. With a little trial and error, they soon attained 160 proof, using a seven-foot distillation column and “just a 55-gallon drum sitting on top of a propane burner,” says Brian Eberly, the young engineer who assembled the column.

Satisfied that the concept was sound, Eberly oversaw the construction of a new, larger and more energy-efficient system able to process 2,500 gallons of raw materials at a rate of 30 gallons per hour, resulting about eight hours later in approximately 250 gallons of fuel. Using a small gas-powered generator (converted to run on ethanol, of course), the process begins with the wine being pumped through a series of heat exchangers connected to the generator’s exhaust port. It passes through a second chamber with a heating element (much like a home water heater) and, having reached 185 degrees, or boiling temperature, it enters the boiler, which was formerly a sturdy metal beer keg.

From there, water and alcohol vapor rise from the liquid up the column, with the heavier water dropping out while the vapor enters a coil at the top which has cold wine circulating around it. This warms the wine and cools the vapor, which condenses back into a liquid with the desired 180 proof. As more wine enters the boiler, the leftover “wash” is pushed out into more heat exchangers that transfer its warmth to cold wine, before the wash winds up in a storage tank, awaiting reuse as vineyard irrigation, fertilizer or even animal feed.

As a whole, the system is approximately 90 percent efficient, Eberly says. “For every 100 gallons we make, 10 gallons goes into running the generator.”

The big remaining variable is the raw material. While just about any kind of vegetable matter can be converted to alcohol, wine has the immediate and obvious advantage of already being alcoholic. Windfall apples work, too, but they must be fermented first. As Eberly explains, “Anything you make from fruit is called ‘wine’; if you make it from grains, it’s called ‘beer.'”

Regardless of nomenclature, there just aren’t large volumes of ag waste readily available these days. So Knutson is investigating growing his own raw material, in the form of Jerusalem artichokes. “They’re not actually an artichoke, they’re actually a sunflower,” he elaborates, and “they produce in the neighborhood of 600 to 1,500 gallons of ethanol per acre,” which contrasts quite favorably with 60 gallons per acre for the soy that is grown for biodiesel. The Jerusalem artichoke is also known for its willingness to grow abundantly in poor soils and with minimal cultivation, attributes that the GEN experimenters plan to gauge in some test plots over the coming months.

The goal is an easily scalable alternative to corn, the heavily subsidized, petrochemical intensive source for most commercially produced ethanol in this country. According to Knutson, “Corn only generates about 300 gallons per acre,” while Brazilian manufacturers are using that country’s widely grown sugar cane. “The figures I’ve seen are anywhere from 600 to 1,200 gallons per acre, 662 gallons per acre by one report,” he says. “That’s pretty good.”

But that’s production on an industrial scale. Brian Eberly’s vision runs in the opposite direction, where every large farm or vineyard has its own still onsite. “That way we don’t have to truck the raw materials around, and the wash is right there to irrigate their farms,” he says. “It’s much easier to transport 100 gallons of fuel than it is a truckload of apples.”

Getting there will require some substantive changes in current law. “In California, there is only one station where you can buy ethanol legally,” Knutson notes. It’s in San Diego. “There are some other test sites, four or five of them, and then there are people like us that are doing it under the radar. In the Midwest, where the fuel is plentiful, it’s actually cheaper than gasoline, so California needs to do something to bring a clean fuel to the masses.”

In attempting “to do some of the guinea pig work” for the Golden State, Knutson and the few dozen others who have participated in the Green Energy Network’s experimental efforts have been doing it as a “hobby.” But Knutson assures, “We have a bigger picture in mind. We want to see this take hold as a business or economic model that can sustain itself. And that’s how we’re forming it: community shared fuel.”


News Briefs

April 11-17, 2007

Don’t shop–impeach

Pushing the concept of a boycott to an entirely new level, the National Committee to Impeach for Peace and WeAreNotBuyingIt.org are urging folks dissatisfied with the present administration (especially those who’d like to end the war in Iraq by impeaching Dubya and his sidekick Cheney) to wholeheartedly embrace the National Corporate Shopping Boycott from April 15 (tax day) to April 22 (Earth Day).

“It’s something people can do. Actually, you don’t have to do anything. Go to the flea market; stay out of the mall,” explains Sonoma State University instructor Peter Phillips, co-author with Dennis Loo of Impeach the President: The Case Against Bush and Cheney. Asked the best way to support the nation after Sept. 11, Bush replied, “Go shopping.” Now Phillips, Loo, 25 endorsing organizations and more than a thousand grassroots organizers nationwide hope Americans will protest by doing exactly the opposite–suspending all corporate shopping for one week by delaying major purchases, avoiding chain stores and staying out of shopping malls.

Participants are urged to support local retailers and small business owners. Buy produce from farmers markets. Fill up the gas tank in advance, or at an independently owned station. “Not shopping is pretty important in this country because shopping is so important. It’s another pressure point we haven’t used yet,” Phillips explains. The goal is to make as many people as possible aware of the boycott plans and to get them all to participate.

“If millions of people do anything against the government in protest, they notice,” Phillips asserts. “Whatever the American people do together has an impact.” The boycott is being announced through e-mails, radio shows and newspaper stories. Positive responses have come in from all over the country, Phillips says.

In the past, activists have successfully boycotted a single product, such as grapes, or a particular company for its policies or practices. Now the idea is to go after every large corporation’s bottom line. “The corporate economy is tied to political power,” Phillips stresses. “This is aimed at corporate America. Whatever people do in mass numbers is scary to the elite.”


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Morsels

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April 11-17, 2007

The Italian Wines 2007 extravaganza last month at San Francisco’s Fort Mason brought together 127 Italian wineries, nearly 150 wines, a plethora of alien grapes and the best-dressed crowd of wine enthusiasts to march west of Sardinia.

Italians evidently will travel to other continents in order to taste wines grown in their neighbors’ backyards. Seems preposterous, but at the Fort that Thursday, it seemed that nearly everyone was tall, slender and sexy, with chins high in the air, dressed to kill, of impeccable posture and confident stride, and speaking in the sing-song cadence of Italian.

As for the wines themselves, they mostly tasted like dirt, or terroir, I should say. The wines might have tasted a bit more distinct had not almost all of them been relentlessly blended, but that’s how the Europeans do it, mostly. This results in faceless, homeless drifters in a land of stately Zinfandels, proud Petite Sirahs, reserved Chardonnays and other distinguished North Bay purebreds.

One wine whose affiliation I didn’t bother to note carried flavors of lemon rind, spilled beer, arugula, thriving compost and beta carotene. I looked at the label and saw a storm of Italian hieroglyphics, showered with accents forward and back and several alphabets’ worth of vowels.

“Perdon, Madame, qu’est-ce que c’est, por favor?” I queried.

“This is 100 percent Merlot, and it sells itself, at $100 per bottle.”

“Why so mucho?”

“Because the maestro made less than 600 cases last year,” she snickered.

This was a perfect textbook example of scarcity–not quality–driving the price of wine, and somehow people fall for this scheme. Truly, I’ve tasted Merlot more memorable from the corner wine shop that cost $5.

There were relatively few Americans on the premises, near as I could tell. They could be distinguished from the Italians primarily by their stunning lack of style and grace. But Steven Segal was there, and he made a strong representation for us North Americans. From the cheese table, he analyzed the situation with his characteristic nobleness. He stood tall in black leather boots, blue jeans, a silky gray button-up shirt, his hair tied back in that classic ponytail we have all come to love. But as I approached him to ask for his autograph, he suddenly belted out “Ciao bella!” at a passing raven-haired farmgirl who broke into a laugh of familiarity. “Nothing but an Italian,” I grumbled as I snapped shut my notebook. “They probably stomp grapes together back home.” Another day of my life, and still I had never met Steven Segal.

Before departing, my date and I sampled the 2003 Chianti Classico Vigni Casi from Castello di Meleto. It tasted like fine bottled water with a hint of rich limestone dust. The 2003 Tenores Badde Nigolosu, on the other hand, was the finest wine we experienced, like a Zinfandel of softened pepper notes over a foamy sweetness of blueberry pudding. The 2004 Gewürztraminer Passito Terminum, also a nice one, tasted perfectly of pineapple.

But overall, the blended terroir of the wines made them drab and unremarkable–not what I had expected of Italian wine. I recall the ZAP festival and can say I’ve had better vino, but I stand convinced that Italians are the most beautiful people on earth.

Quick dining snapshots by Bohemian staffers.

Winery news and reviews.

Food-related comings and goings, openings and closings, and other essays for those who love the kitchen and what it produces.

Recipes for food that you can actually make.

Here’s a Stretch

Land Lover

Odds and Sods

Three chamber art

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April 11-17, 2007

Discovering the music of Estonian composer Arvo Pärt (above) for the first time is like stumbling onto a new language that expresses clearly and plainly the previously unthinkable; with a minimal investment, it provides great release. His “Spiegel Im Spiegel” is a work of inexhaustible beauty, his “Tabula Rasa” a piece of intricate challenge. While the former enjoys the spotlight on screen and stage, the latter is a well-loved yet underperformed masterpiece, mostly because of the daunting uphill climb toward violinist Gidon Kremer’s untouchable and definitive 1977 recording of this delicate work, blooming as it does with harbored rapture. “Whoever wrote it,” muses Wolfgang Sandner in the album’s liner notes, “must have left himself behind at one point to dig the piano notes out of the earth and gather the artificial harmonics of the violins from heaven.” San Francisco’s award-winning New Century Chamber Orchestra performs “Tabula Rasa” in an inspired pairing with Bach’s “Concerto for Two Violins and Strings” and Schoenberg’s “Verklarte Nacht” on Wednesday, April 11, at Osher Marin Jewish Community Center. 200 N. San Pedro Road, San Rafael. 7:30pm. $28-$42. 415.357.1111.

Adding to the reservoir of chamber music from which to drink is the wonderful Russian River Chamber Music Society, which graciously presents free performances from all over the musical spectrum. Whether with the dissonant glissandos and eerie tape loops of Ethel, presented last year, or the civilized Mendelssohnian veneer of the Amadeus Trio just last month, the RRCMS can be counted on for quality and taste. Next up, New York’s Proteus Ensemble perform works by Copland, Carter, Villa-Lobos, Piazzolla, Gershwin, and Rorem on Saturday, April 14, at the Healdsburg Community Church. 1100 University Ave., Healdsburg. 7:30pm. Free. 707.524.8700.

Finally, from out of the pit and onto the stage comes Craig Reiss and the Eos Ensemble, a group mainly comprising members from the San Francisco Opera orchestra. With guest artist Richard Savino on guitar, the quintet will perform works by Boccherini, Piazzolla and Falconieri before bowing out, guitarless, with Shostakovich’s String Quartet no. 8 on Thursday, April 12, at the 142 Throckmorton Theatre. 142 Throckmorton Ave., Mill Valley. 8pm. $15-$20. 415.383.9600.


NO Foolin’

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April 4-10, 2007

Leave it to accomplished director Lasse Hallström (Chocolat, Casanova, My Life as a Dog) to accomplish the unexpected not once but twice in his latest film. First he manages to take a very serious real-life crime and turn it into a buoyant and lighthearted comedy, and second of all he made me enjoy watching Richard Gere. Because it is, quite frankly, genius casting; only someone with the abundance of smarmy charm that Gere exudes onscreen could convincingly portray a man who used every charming bone in his body to pull off such an amazing stunt.

In the early 1970s, Clifford Irving was just another struggling writer. His one published book never sold very well, and his latest manuscript was soundly rejected. Eager for a chance to become famous, Irving decides to pen what he has dubbed (before even having any sort of idea in mind) “the most important book of the 20th century.” After blurting out said phrase to his contacts at McGraw-Hill, he turns to his friend, fellow author and crack researcher Richard Suskind (Alfred Molina) for help in figuring out just what would be this most important something to write about. Envious of the man’s obvious power, he settles upon Howard Hughes, but decides to go the extra faux mile by making his sham manuscript an autobiography. And thus begins an escalating series of illegalities that take our hero and his sidekick down a slippery slope into the land of felonious fraud.

Irving was clever enough to realize early on that–especially in the case of lying about your nonexistent dealings with a reclusive and probably insane billionaire–the more implausible the story, the more likely people are to believe it. Most of the fun comes from seeing the amazingly tall tales that Irving conjures up at the drop of a hat to keep his deception rolling along. Hallström and screenwriter William Wheeler also add a smartly placed layer to the story by focusing a sub-plot on Irving’s infidelities. Not only does this add to our understanding of the character as a habitual liar, but it also gives audiences some food for thought about how many of us, too, get through our lives via a series of little white lies.

The Hoax opens at select North Bay theaters on Friday, April 6.


New and upcoming film releases.

Browse all movie reviews.

Wine Tasting

Fuel to the Fire

Wasted: 'Junk' wine becomes fuel for cars when in...

News Briefs

April 11-17, 2007 Don't shop--impeach Pushing the concept of a boycott to an entirely new level, the National Committee to Impeach for Peace and WeAreNotBuyingIt.org are urging folks dissatisfied with the present administration (especially those who'd like to end the war in Iraq by impeaching Dubya and his sidekick Cheney) to wholeheartedly embrace the National Corporate Shopping Boycott from April...

Blank Page

Morsels

April 11-17, 2007 The Italian Wines 2007 extravaganza last month at San Francisco's Fort Mason brought together 127 Italian wineries, nearly 150 wines, a plethora of alien grapes and the best-dressed crowd of wine enthusiasts to march west of Sardinia.Italians evidently will travel to other continents in order to taste wines grown in their neighbors' backyards. Seems preposterous, but at...

Land Lover

Odds and Sods

Three chamber art

April 11-17, 2007 Discovering the music of Estonian composer Arvo Pärt (above) for the first time is like stumbling onto a new language that expresses clearly and plainly the previously unthinkable; with a minimal investment, it provides great release. His "Spiegel Im Spiegel" is a work of inexhaustible beauty, his "Tabula Rasa" a piece of intricate challenge. While the former...

NO Foolin’

April 4-10, 2007 Leave it to accomplished director Lasse Hallström (Chocolat, Casanova, My Life as a Dog) to accomplish the unexpected not once but twice in his latest film. First he manages to take a very serious real-life crime and turn it into a buoyant and lighthearted comedy, and second of all he made me enjoy...
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