It’s a lovely afternoon for financial panic. The sun warms the air just so, the vineyards are speckled with yellow and red, and don’t all the really great stock market crashes happen in October? If it isn’t exactly October, 1929 or 1987—and who can forget the Panic of 1907?—I can’t take my eyes off the live electronic stock ticker above the bar at UPTick Vineyards. Today, every big-name stock that flashes by is in negative territory. On the plus side, there’s drink.

Just having a passion for wine is really great, but it will not build a brand-new tasting room on Westside Road with ample parking and furnish it with a baby grand piano. When owners Steven and Robin Black founded UPTick in 2007, they rather candidly themed it after the heaps of money that Steven Black made in the New York financial-services industry, having started in the mail room at Merrill Lynch at age 18.

But it’s not all no bull at UPTick. In one corner, a sculpture inspired by the Wall Street “Charging Bull” snorts and stomps under a 9-11 memorial flag. Like a hyperinflated market, the bull’s not solid—it’s convincingly spray-painted styrofoam and can be lifted with one finger, as tasting room host David Day demonstrates. Until they step out from behind the bar, the people here appear in bizarre silhouette against the vineyard—almost as if, say, an invisible hand were pouring the wine. Day, who is also assistant winemaker, explains that the tasting room was designed that way, to showcase the view, not the people. But it is actually Day’s knowledgeable and honest talk about the winery that turn this visit from a curiosity-seeking whim into a favorable impression of their efforts.

Wines are 100 percent varietal, single vineyard, and are custom-crushed in Sebastopol. The 2012 Hilda’s Rosé ($22) is crisp and steely, with strawberry highlights. The 2012 Dry Creek Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($30) has that classic Sauvignon cat-pee nose, but a nicely rounded, oak-aged body. Also well mannered, the 2011 Estate Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($30) shows barrel aging without malolactic fermentation—juicy, golden raisin and baked apple flavors linger without undue sweetness or tartness.

A diverse portfolio of reds fills out the roster: juicy Pinot Noir, toasty Syrah, old vine Zin and requisite Cabernet. Since all bubbles must pop, a light, yeasty Sparkling Brut ($25) is poured at the end to refresh the palate. Give this place a chance next time you’re joyriding in the area; although past performance is no guarantee of future results, the opportunity cost is low.

UPTick Vineyards, 779 Westside Road, Healdsburg. Open daily, 11am–5pm. Tasting fee, $10. American songbook piano, Saturdays. 707.395.0864.

It’s three-star scores all the way for this batch of well-made, predictable Pinots from the celebrated, maybe over-lauded 2012 vintage. And that’s nothing to scoff at. It’s good news that for about $25 these days you get a square deal in Pinot Noir. No sous bois and no surprises.

Cuvaison 2012 Carneros Pinot Noir ($38) No surprise that this selection, priced one tier above the others, wins favorite in a blind tasting—I, er, didn’t even look at the tech sheet before assembling the lineup. The hint of smoky, incensey oak has a high-quality savor to it; the fruity potpourri aroma has depth; the plum and cherry flavors are intensified with cola character; and the finish is firm. It’s got a bit extra and it costs that bit extra.

Landmark 2012 Overlook California Pinot Noir ($25) First release of this label, following Landmark’s successful Overlook Chardonnay by a mere 20 years. While the dusty, fine oak aroma doesn’t reveal much besides the faintest cherry perfume, it’s an enticing perfume, and the palate of sweet strawberry jam and allspice is substantial. Also, this wine held up or improved the day after opening.

Benziger 2012 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($29) It looks like Pinot, smells like Pinot, and tastes like Pinot—and it’s certified sustainably grown. Not smoky, sweet, heavy or light, having a solid palate of mixed berry fruit, this seems a safe, no-fail dinner party Pinot.

Cherry Tart 2012 California Pinot Noir ($25) From dessert-theme wine baron Jayson Woodbridge of Cherry Pie, a single vineyard wine marketed with colorful whimsy. The only fault I found with Cherry Tart—besides its being called a “Multi-Single-Vineyard” blend, like calling it a fingernails-on-chalkboard blend—is that it’s got a waste-no-time screw cap, but it takes time for a note of lawn clippings to blow off and reveal substantial and enjoyable, if slightly baked, flavors of cherry syrup—halfway to a quality sangria.

Francis Ford Coppola 2012 Director’s Cut Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($21) The best of the winery’s 2012 Pinots, and in the middle of their price range. Bearing a similarity to the Landmark in sweet, cherry-berry fruit spiced with vanilla, with a weediness that peeks in and out of the aroma.

Cambria Julia’s Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir ($25) From a Jackson Family Wines property. A handshake of 4-ethylguaiacol (a smoky aroma somewhere between French roast coffee and highway skunk) just never leaves its grip, even a day after opening. It’s unclear if and when the intense, dark fruit might overcome that.