Art for All

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Now in its seventh year, Napa Valley Arts in April is the county’s annual month-long showcase of arts and events that highlights local talent amid world-class exhibitions.

Produced by the Arts Council Napa Valley, Arts in April is changing the script for this year’s offerings and collaborating directly with community partners in each town in the valley—American Canyon, Napa, Yountville, St. Helena and Calistoga—to bring art directly to the people with programming that’s largely free, family-friendly and accessible to all.

“We invited all of the arts and cultural stakeholders that we knew in each town,” says Arts in April producer Danielle Smith. “And told them, ‘We think it’s important to create programming that reflects the unique culture of your town.'”

With that in mind, the upcoming schedule of events embraces each town’s cultural personality. For example, Arts in April kicks off the month with a four-day grassroots celebration, “Sarafornia: The Arts of Calistoga,” that honors the town’s bohemian spirit.

Throughout the weekend, the Napa County Fairgrounds in Calistoga will house the ENGAGE Art Fair, an interactive way to meet dozens of local artists and see them working in an eclectic environment of creativity. In addition, the exhibition “Flower Bomb” at T-Vine Winery features several local florists pairing their artistic bouquets with a variety
of paintings. And on Saturday, April 1, Tank Garage Winery hosts a Storytelling Speakeasy.

“Speakeasies are those place where people go to feel safe,” Smith says, “where outsiders congregate to share their art in a place where they feel they can be vulnerable.”

The events were planned before the current administration announced its intention to dismantle the National Endowment for the Arts, which is a source of Arts Council Napa Valley’s funding. Smith recognizes that many of these events have now taken on a new meaning.

“I think there needs to be a cultural shift in this country,” Smith says. “Most Western civilizations treat the arts as something that’s essential.”

After Calistoga’s bohemian weekend, Arts in April celebrates Napa Valley’s diverse scene with events like Art, Sip & Stroll in Yountville on April 22 and FLOW: Arts at the River in Napa on
April 30, where partner Festival Napa Valley presents performance art on stage while local students work on a public art piece.

Smith also says that anybody can basically join Arts in April by putting their event on the Arts in April’s online calendar.

“To see a community rally around the idea of doing something for the arts, to stand up and say this matters to them, is awesome,” Smith says.

For more info, visit artscouncilnapavalley.org/artsinapril.

Rock On

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And so another rock ‘n’ roll icon, Chuck Berry, has departed the stage. Along with Little Richard and James Brown, they seemed to individually integrate the music of the 1950s and ’60s that many young Americans were listening to. Race music, as it was called, lent itself to the blues and R&B, both rural and urban, but never quite crossed over to white audiences. When this triumvirate appeared, that glass ceiling of separation was shattered.

What made their music so appealing was not only the raw energy of the sound, but the visual theatricality onstage and on television. And although James Brown and Little Richard would be impossible to imitate because of their unique style, Chuck Berry was already garnering the attention of young musicians, both homegrown and across the pond in England, who listened, studied and stole his licks. If imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, one had to only look at the who’s who that imitated him. The list is endless . . .

Not only was Chuck Berry an accomplished guitarist, he was also a fine lyricist and poet—he was a craftsman of tunes. He could tell a great story in three and a half minutes. With his steady voice and clear diction, his words simple and rhythmic, he painted the picture for you. Whether it was straight-ahead rockers (“Johnny B. Goode,” “Roll Over Beethoven,” “Sweet Little Sixteen”), odes to unfaithful women (“Maybelline,” “Nadine”), songs about the breakup and heartbreak of a family (“Memphis, Tennessee”) or the slow-tempo story of a young Cuban woman waiting on the docks for someone (“Havana Moon”), Chuck Berry easily guided you to the emotions he wanted you to feel, and you did! Before long you knew the melody and the words. What more can a songwriter ask for?

So here’s to you Chuck Berry. Hail, Hail, Rock ‘n’ Roll.

E. G. Singer lives in Santa Rosa.

Open Mic is a weekly feature in the ‘Bohemian.’ We welcome your contribution. To have your topical essay of 350 words considered for publication, write op*****@******an.com.

Hold the Meat

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I suppose you could say restaurants that offer veggie burgers as a meatless alternative to customers with beef cravings should be applauded for their efforts.

But most meatless burgers are awful. The frozen discs reheated on griddle tops generally taste of compressed wood pulp and aren’t worth the grease they were fried in.

But the times are changing, and so are the veggie burgers. We are living in the early days of a vegetarian revolution with animal-free products like Hampton Creek’s Just Mayo (eggless mayonnaise made with vegetable proteins); Modern Meadow’s lab-grown meat (which poses an existential question for vegetarians: if no animals were killed to make it, is it OK to eat?); and now the Impossible Burger, a hugely popular product that looks and tastes a lot like ground beef because of the addition of an ingredient called heme.

Heme is an iron-rich molecule in blood that carries oxygen. Turns out it’s also found in plants and yeast, which is where Impossible Foods gets its heme through a proprietary fermentation process. It’s the heme that makes Impossible Burgers “bleed” to the delight of former carnivores.

Superburger makes a fine burger from regular ground beef. Their burgers bleed the old fashioned way. Last week, they took yet another Best Of award for best burger in Sonoma County. Don’t look now, but the burger baron has gotten into the fake-meat business, too, with the addition of the Imposter to its menu.

The vegan, non-GMO, gluten-free patty is produced by Missouri’s Hungry Planet, which calls it a Range-Free burger. It’s made with soy protein of the concentrated and isolated variety, some autolyzed yeast extract for a hit of umami savoriness, various vegetable gums for texture and a sprinkling of beet powder for color and a little red juice.

Would you mistake the Imposter for the real thing at Superburger? In appearance, yes. The patty looks thoroughly meat-like, well browned and nubbly. It’s especially attractive, if no longer vegan, with a slice of cheddar cheese draped over it.

When eating an Imposter ($9, which cheese) side by side with one of Superburger’s burgers, however, as I did, the differences become apparent. The vegan patty is springy and moist, like a beef patty, but lacks the pleasantly fatty, uniquely beefy quality of, well, beef.

But it’s a far cry better than the first generation of Boca Burger–like fake meat-food pucks. Loaded up with pickles, red onion, lettuce and tomatoes and slathered with mustard, mayo and catsup, the Imposter will certainly satisfy most vegans, and even some carnivores observing Meatless Monday.

Are vegan burgers like the Imposter and Impossible Burger better for the planet? Not necessarily. Both contain soy. Soybean agriculture can be destructive with its use of fertilizers and pesticides, and when forest is clear-cut for the crop as in places like Brazil. On the other hand, properly managed, grass-fed cattle operations can improve soil and water quality while also pulling climate-warming carbon from the atmosphere back into the earth, (see this week’s cover story “Climate Solution,” p19).

But if you don’t like the idea of eating animals and prefer red beet powder to blood, the Imposter is the real thing.

Superburger, 1501 Fourth St.,
Santa Rosa. 707.546.4016.

A Climate Solution

This year, the third warmest in recorded history, spring has come a month early, with regions all across the United States experiencing May temperatures in March. While warmer temperatures are welcome after a cold, wet winter, the cause is not.

Oceans are warming and rising, and last year was the fourth consecutive year of mass seal pup strandings along local beaches due to reduced populations of anchovies and sardines. Glaciers are melting and collapsing at record rates. Heat waves and fires are likely to threaten our placid summers. Worse disasters loom in our children’s future.

Despite what the Trump administration says, climate change is here. As Naomi Klein pointed out in a 2011 article in

The Nation, climate deniers know its consequences full well: addressing climate change means not only ending the flow of their black gold—it’s the end of their entire way of life.

“To lower global emissions,” she writes, “can only be done by radically reordering our economic and political systems in many ways antithetical to their ‘free market belief system.” Hence, oil companies have invested billions to convince much of the voting public that climate change is a hoax and accomplished the ultimate coup d’état with the installation of a like-minded government that will raise the temperature, and the consequences, even more.

But we still have a chance to pull back from our race to the edge. There is a climate-change solution that can take root at the local level which can actually reverse climate change by at least 40 percent. By changing the way we grow food, we can actually draw down carbon from the atmosphere and put it to good use where it belongs: in the soil. Call it carbon farming.

HEALTHY SOILS

North Bay farmers have led the way with these techniques, and with the help of climate-advocacy groups, they won state support to promote a program that just might save the world.

The Healthy Soils Initiative, launched Jan. 11 in Sacramento by the National Resource Conservation Service and the California Department of Agriculture, encourages farmers to adopt carbon-friendly farming methods by offering grants and training assistance. Grant applications will be accepted later this spring.

Judging from the number of people who turned out for the September Healthy Soils Summit—over 200 for the conference itself and many more via webcast—interest in this carbon-friendly “regenerative” soil-management program is growing. It can’t come too soon: the very existence of topsoil is at risk.

The World Wildlife Fund reports that over half the topsoil worldwide has been lost over the past 150 years, mostly due to industrial agriculture. Some sources say the loss is more like 70 percent. It’s possible that in 60 years, the topsoil on heavily grazed and monocropped farmlands will be gone, leaving nothing but an impervious layer of hardpan in its place, conditions that led to the Dust Bowl phenomenon in parts of the United States and Canada in the 1930s. Without its thin skin of topsoil, fertile land turns to desert, a process that has been accelerating all over the world in large part because of intensive industrial agriculture.

But David Runsten, policy director of the California Association of Family Farmers, says agriculture can be part of the solution. He began working with the California Climate and Agriculture Network (CalCAN), a nonprofit that advocates for climate-friendly agricultural policy, in 2009 to get state officials to embrace carbon farming.

“Finally, the governor said he would support Healthy Soils,” says Runsten.

The legislation passed last summer and allocates $7.5 million for the program, $3 million for demonstration projects and up to $4 million in grants of up to $25,000. Gov. Brown is sold on the program. He originally asked for $20 million once he embraced the idea.

Funding for the program comes from the California Air Resources Board’s cap-and-trade program.

California’s cap-and-trade program generates money from big emitters who are required to buy permits to emit greenhouse gases, says Renata Brillinger, executive director of CalCAN.

“The Legislature and the governor decide how much [of that] money to spend and on what. It’s billions of dollars that we can influence through a democratic process,” she says.

Healthy Soils projects must be directly linked to climate change, she says. “Farmers are getting money to do things on their farm that draws down carbon or reduces emissions. It is the only source of funding in the United States that will pay farmers to do that.”

One of the pioneers of carbon farming is the Marin Carbon Project (MCP). The nonprofit took it upon itself to provide scientific evidence to substantiate the benefits of carbon farming. Working in concert with Whendee Silver, professor of ecosystem ecology at UC Berkeley, the MCP found that adding a half-inch of compost to the soil increased soil carbon by one ton, or 40 percent, per hectare.

Most dazzling was the discovery that the amount continued to increase by the same rate year after year without adding more compost. This research demonstrated that carbon farming “can improve on-farm productivity and viability, enhance ecosystem functions and stop and reverse climate change,” explains Torri Estrada, executive director of the Carbon Cycle Institute, a Petaluma-based organization partnered with the MCP.

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THE CARBON CYCLE

Plants sequester carbon from atmospheric CO2 by photosynthesis, using the airborne carbon to create carbohydrates and relaying the excess sugars to microbes in the soil. In turn, microbes return carbon to the soil. The more microbes, the more carbon is taken up, the stronger the roots and the more productive and resilient the plant. Adding organic matter to the soil feeds the fungi and bacteria, and enhances the effect.

In addition to providing fertility to the plants, microbes release a protein called glomalin, which makes soil clump together. Healthy soil, which holds more microbes per teaspoon than there are people on the planet, is porous, so it holds water more efficiently. It also keeps pests at bay, while nourishing earthworms, who enrich the soil with their castings. Keeping the land covered with some form of plant material, or even mulch, protects it from erosion and keeps the carbon from going back into the atmosphere as carbon dioxide. The more plants that grow in the field, the more carbon dioxide will be drawn down from the atmosphere and retained in the soil.

“Some scientists have projected that 75 to 100 parts per million of CO2 could be drawn out of the atmosphere over the next century if existing farms, pastures and forestry systems were managed to maximize carbon sequestration,” reports Michael Pollan in a 2015 story in the Washington Post. “That’s significant, when you consider that CO2 levels passed 400 ppm this spring. Scientists agree that the safe level of carbon dioxide in the atmosphere is 350 ppm.

At the 2015 United Nations Climate Change Conference in Paris, the French government proposed that all nations sign on to its “4 Pour 1000 Initiative” (four per 1,000), based on the belief that if soil carbon were increased worldwide by .4 percent, climate change could be reversed.

“A small amount,” comments MCP founder Jeff Creque, “but if everyone did it, the greenhouse gas problem would be solved.”

How long the carbon remains in the soil depends mainly on what happens afterward, Creque explains. “If you go in and plow, the carbon will go back into the atmosphere,” because “tillage breaks up the root systems that disperse the carbon to the microbes in the soil.”

Reducing or eliminating tillage is one of the three basic carbon farming techniques, says Creque, one that’s emphasized in the Healthy Soils Initiative. Research has found that two-thirds of soil carbon is released into the atmosphere through poor soil management, mostly tillage.

LOCAL SOLUTIONS

Farmers Paul and Elizabeth Kaiser met in the Peace Corps in Africa where Paul taught farmers how to revitalize desertified ecosystems through agroforestry. The Kaisers are now in their 11th year at Singing Frogs Farm in Sebastopol. When they bought the property 10 years ago, it had been lightly farmed according to standard practice.

“There were no nutrients or organic matter in the light, sandy soil,” says Paul Kaiser. “It didn’t hold water and turned to concrete in summer.”

They began with standard organic farming techniques, “which we understood to be the best method,” he says, but they quickly found that it wasn’t sufficient. Plowing and tilling produced only one crop per year. “We couldn’t pay the mortgage.”

One day in 2004, Deborah Koons Garcia, who was making the film, Symphony of the Soil, visited the farm.

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“She wanted shots of earthworms,” says Kaiser, “but there were none in the beds that we had rototilled. But the beds that hadn’t been tilled were chock-full.”

Not only were there earthworms, but, as they later learned, there were microbes that help plants consume carbon. The Kaisers began to read everything they could find on innovative farming methods. Seeking ways to improve the soil to produce more than one crop, they incorporated three key practices recommended by the U.S. Department of Agriculture to support healthy soils: disturb the soil as little as possible (no tillage); keep the ground covered at all times, with green growing plants whenever possible; and encourage species diversity on the farm.

Now, with no tillage, no amendments except compost, and with minimal irrigation, the three-acre farm grows more than a hundred varieties of produce for its CSA and farmers markets, and grosses $100,000 per acre per year.

It’s been a very wet winter, but due to the farm’s superior water retention, the land didn’t flood like some other farms in the neighborhood. Singing Frogs Farm has been growing a dozen different vegetables for its customers through the winter, says Kaiser, who plans on sharing his methods with the California Association of Family Farmers and its network of small farms.

Livestock raised in typical feedlots generate enormous amounts of methane, polluting creeks and trampling soils. Methane is a potent greenhouse gas. But raising livestock can be beneficial to the climate. Rotational grazing allows animals to munch a variety of grasses; as they’re moved to other pastures, they deposit manure along the way that strengthens carbon sequestering plants.

Stemple Creek Ranch in Tomales is one of three MCP demonstration farms. One day last spring, rancher Loren Poncia drove me out into the pasture to see his “happy cows,” who came bounding through the tall green grasses to greet us. They frolicked with one another, their fine black coats gleaming in the sun.

Stemple Creek had been using a number of best-practice techniques on the ranch before the MCP invited the ranch to be a test case for its compost study. Poncia’s father had begun the practice of planting dozens of trees, thereby creating windbreaks and inviting many new species of wildlife to take up residence, especially birds. Poncia is particularly proud of his “duck tubes,” which are placed in the pond each spring. These sturdy nests, made from wire netting stuffed with natural forage, provide safe nesting habitat for the wild mallards that visit.

Stemple Creek’s cattle are all grass-fed. They consume no grain. Grass is better for the animals because it is the natural diet of ruminants, whereas feeding cattle grain produced intestinal distress—and lots of climate-warming methane gas.

Poncia’s beef is sold at some local Whole Foods and at select markets throughout the state. The ranch is doing so well that Poncia has been able to give up his “day job” selling animal pharmaceuticals to veterinarians.

GETTING THE WORD OUT

While the state’s Healthy Soils Initiative will help recruit more carbon farmers, getting growers to see the financial and environmental benefits remains a challenge. But a nearly 90-year-old federal agency may help spread the word.

The national network of Resource Conservation Districts (RCDs), governmental entities that provide technical assistance and tools to manage and protect land and water resources, came into being during the Dust Bowl era. There are more than 3,000 RCDs in the country.

“Soil health has been our focus for 75 years,” says Brittany Jensen, executive director of the Gold Ridge RCD in Sebastopol.

“After the Marin Carbon Project brought to light how you could increase soil carbon with the application of compost, we shifted our emphasis,” says Jensen, “developing carbon farm plans for farmers and ranches with the extra lens of how we increase carbon and more planned grazing.”

Jensen says one of the most powerful ways of drawing down carbon is planting trees in riparian corridors. The RCD also helps farmers plant windrows, trees to block the wind and increase forage productivity. The Gold Ridge RCD is working with other RCDs on the North Coast to develop practices for various crops, including grapes.

What about home gardeners? The same principles apply, says Jensen. “It gets back to holistic landscaping. Plant more bushes and trees, don’t disturb the soil, perhaps take out that driveway and replace it with a more porous surface, make your own compost . . .”

According to the UN’s Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change, “a large fraction of anthropogenic climate change resulting from CO2 emissions is irreversible . . . except in the case of a large net removal of CO2 from the atmosphere over a sustained period” (emphasis mine).

While the Trump administration denies climate change, California’s science- and market-backed Healthy Soils Initiative offers a viable way forward.

For more information on the Healthy Soils Initiative, visit cdfa.ca.gov/subscriptions/#environmental.
Stephanie Hiller is a Santa Rosa Junior College writing instructor and freelance writer who lives in Sonoma. She can be reached at
hi**************@***il.com.

Party with Power

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Has it already been one year since punk promoter and organizer Ian O’Connor launched Shock City, USA? Seems like only yesterday that the young and outgoing rock and roll purveyor set his sights on bringing the best in underground noise to the North Bay. Twelve months and 16 shows later, Shock City, USA celebrates its one-year anniversary with its heaviest concert yet.

On April 4, Dallas thrash-metal band Power Trip (pictured) headline Shock City’s anniversary show. Power Trip’s new album, Nightmare Logic, is being called the best thrash-metal record in years. Featuring punishing intensity and staggering energy throughout its eight tracks, the band’s sophomore effort offers an unrelenting, no-holds-barred rampage of sonic aggression.

If that wasn’t enough, Arizona’s foremost freak rockers Destruction Unit are also on the bill, back in Santa Rosa for another round of acid-washed punk and psychedelic rock.

Up-and-coming San Diego punks Mizery and Santa Rosa’s own experimental punk collective Rut kick the show into gear. In addition to the bands, Shock City is also hosting an eclectic art show featuring 20 local painters, photographers, tattoo artists and more.

Power Trip roar into the North Bay on Tuesday, April 4, at Arlene Francis Center,
99 Sixth St., Santa Rosa. 7pm. $12. For more info, visitfacebook.com/shockcityusa.

Letters to the Editor: March 29, 2016

Taxpayer Questions

I totally agree with Peter Byrne’s legitimate questioning of the Sonoma County Independent Office of Law Enforcement Review and Outreach (IOLERO) as a complete waste of taxpayer money (Open Mic, March 1.) If Jerry Threet needs nine paragraphs to justify and defend his newly formed organization (Letters, March 15), the questions are well-deserved.

To the common person, the fact that half of the total budget goes to one person is difficult to comprehend. His explanation for this is weak at best. In paragraph three, Threet wants us to know, and possibly feel sorry for him, that he “took a salary cut from $180,000” to his present $160,000 salary and $103,00 in benefits, totaling $263,000. His assistant receives $63,000 in salary and $59,000 in benefits for a total of $122,000. In the remaining paragraphs, Mr. Threet states what the agency has done to get set up, the “hundred” meetings held and, finally, what they can and cannot do, which included his reasons why the tragic Lopez murder cannot be examined by the IOLERO.

I have never met Mr. Threet, nor do I know anything more about him except what has been written. I am sure he is a fine attorney, an honorable man and wants to do what is best for the community in which he resides by providing a link between the public and law enforcement. This interaction is desperately needed.

My point is that a nine-paragraph

response explaining and justifying the IOLERO’s existence has done more harm than good. My suggestion is to make the IOLERO website more user-friendly by breaking down the “investigations currently pending in our log” in an orderly manner so they can be clearly understood and followed from inception to completion. This will help taxpayers make up their own minds as to whether the IOLERO is worth the cost.

Sebastopol

Pave the Way

After the rainiest winter in memory, many Marin and Sonoma county roads are in deplorable condition. The $65 million that the Sonoma County Board of Supervisors has invested in pavement preservation during recent years has enabled 300 miles of well-traveled county roads to largely escape the storms’ ravages. We thank the supervisors for addressing the decades of neglect that transformed the county’s road system into one of the worst in California.

But we still desperately need funds to repair the 60 percent of the Sonoma County road system that remains in poor or failing condition. Marin County roads have similar problems.

Legislation designated as SB1 will eventually provide over $18 million and $7.8 million annually to fix Sonoma and Marin county roads, respectively. Our cities face similar challenges and will benefit greatly.

Of Marin and Sonoma county’s five legislators, only Assemblyman Marc Levine has not endorsed this proposed legislation. Save Our Sonoma Roads urges voters to contact Assemblyman Levine (Ma*********@****ca.gov) and insist that he support this vital legislation.

SOSroads

Write to us at le*****@******an.com.

Crossing Borders

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Singer, songwriter and guitarist Gaby Moreno’s earliest memories are of being on a stage. Growing up in Guatemala, she was encouraged by her parents at a young age to perform.

“That’s something that’s been natural to me,” she says. “I feel very comfortable there.”

Today, Moreno is considered one of the premier voices in Latin pop, singing with tremendous emotional power in both English and Spanish while mixing blues, jazz, indie folk and more for a dynamic sound that recently earned her a Grammy nomination.

Moreno will share her songs in an intimate setting when she performs with a trio on April 3 at Sweetwater Music Hall in
Mill Valley.

Moreno is the kind of singer whose raw talent became apparent early. When she was 18, Warner Brothers Records discovered her and gave her a deal. That was also the year she moved to Los Angeles. “What I wanted to do was surround myself with all kinds of producers and songwriters,” she says of her decision to attend music school in Hollywood. “I wanted to absorb everything around me. and I knew L.A. would be the perfect city for that.”

When she first came to Los Angeles, Moreno sang and wrote exclusively in English. While she was happily plugging away in the alternative pop scene, she started to think back on her roots. “I started to embrace my Latin culture,” says Moreno. “I wanted to tell people where I come from.”

In 2006, Moreno started writing in Spanish for the first time. That year, she submitted her song “Escondidos” to the John Lennon Songwriting Contest, established by Yoko Ono in 1997, and won in the Latin category and then the overall prize. “That was kind of a big deal,” Moreno says. “I think that motivated me to want to keep doing it.”

Last year, Moreno released her most acclaimed album yet,

Ilusión. Produced by Dap-Kings member and Daptone Records co-founder Gabriel Roth, the record is an analog assembly of live takes in studio. “We decided to just do a few takes, and take one without editing,” she says. “There’s a very raw sound to this album, but the emotion is there.”

Since becoming a bilingual songwriter, Moreno has seen her audiences grow. “People are affected by music no matter what language they’re being spoken to in,” she says.

“I love French music, I love Brazilian music. I don’t understand what the words are, but the music moves me,” she says. “That’s testimony that, indeed, music is a universal language.”

Wedge Issue

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A small triangle of cheese lies on its mark on a tasting sheet. This is no ordinary, creamy yellowish wedge of cheese, nor does it merely sport a rustic rind or smell faintly of the farmyard. This cheese looks like it was retrieved from the crypt. Marbled gray-blue, it looks like it’s smoldering. This cheese needs a beer.

It’s no everyday ale that stands up to Boonter’s Blue, which is actually a mild blue cheese in the Spanish Cabrales style, and is made from raw goat’s milk by Boonville’s Pennyroyal Farm. Still, this sample of dusty gray-blue, hazily marbled Boonter’s, gamy and earthy smelling, is about as far from the usual jack or cheddar served at beer joints as Miller Light is to Russian River Brewing’s Consecration ale.

Those two are a pretty good pairing, says certified cicerone Chris Munsey, who presented a seminar on cheese and beer pairing at the California Artisan Cheese Festival in Petaluma. Indeed, the cheese brings out the wine and fruit notes in the sour dark ale, which is aged in Cabernet barrels with black currants, without losing its earthy appeal. So this is a good beer to pair with artisan cheese? Not with Fiscalini Farmstead’s bandaged-wrapped cheddar, which to my taste accentuates lactic off-flavors in the beer.

Munsey chose his pairings well, matching the cheddar with Calicraft Brewing’s the City IPA. That’s how a cicerone earns his keep—the designation basically means “beer somm.” Although he is employed by a Vermont creamery, Munsey lives in California, and promotes the idea that farmstead cheeses, which by definition are made with milk from the creamery’s own animals, ought to be enjoyed with “farmhouse” beer, which he more loosely defines as beer brewed “with a sense of place” or the inclusion of local ingredients.

There’s a place for lighter beer beside the cheese board, too. A slice of Point Reyes Farmstead’s Toma, which is mild but more flavorful than standard jack, fills out a crisp, bright ale brewed with chamomile and orange peel instead of hops by Oakland’s Ale Industries.

If fancy beer and the lilting term “cicerone” cement your notion that craft brew has gone too far down the precious path toward the old Chardonnay and brie trope, relax—greasy nachos are not going out of style. You could also think about craft brew and artisan cheese as basically reinventions, with up-to-date equipment and fermentation science, of even older traditions—and flavors.

For beginners, regular old stouts are very versatile with cheese, says Munsey, particularly with cheddar, gouda and rich, creamy cheeses. Sometimes even Cowgirl Creamery’s Mt. Tam needs a beer.

Waiting on a Train

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Even the most ardent supporter of a commuter train linking Sonoma County to central Marin County has to be feeling a little skeptical these days.

The Sonoma Marin Area Rail Transit (SMART) was supposed to be shuttling passengers from Santa Rosa to San Rafael. But a December 2016 promise of service was postponed until “late spring.” There was also the promise that a voter-approved quarter-cent sales tax would cover all expenses. That’s not happening either.

Meanwhile, empty trains roll up and down the North Bay, adding costs to an ambitious, $500 million build-out plan that’s growing more expensive by the day. How much is SMART laying out in payroll and other expenses since December? The agency won’t say. Public records requests from the Bohemian are pending.

The train’s social media pages are meanwhile peppered with frustration from citizens weary of the delay: “Trains operating, yet still empty,” Jerry Gibson wrote on Facebook. “Our tax dollars hard at work.” Missy LePoint wrote: “SMART is dispensing advice on time-management? Hilarious. Just tell us the day that ‘late spring’ arrives, OK?” And a note from Michael Nelson spoke for long-standing opponents: “Stop, already, enough of this horse crap . . . hope the people that voted for this are happy.”

The train is still popular among the region’s political class, which has proposed it as a traffic-beating alternative along Highway 101. None of the elected officials who championed SMART have publicly wavered, despite delays and budget increases—not even Windsor mayor Deb Fudge. She’s been on the SMART district board since 2005, and in January was selected to head the board, notwithstanding the fact that the train is not scheduled to head her way for years—and nobody can say for sure how many.

Larkspur vice mayor Daniel Hillmer represents Marin County mayors and councilmembers on the SMART board. He’s pleased with the progress.

“SMART is performing according to the Measure Q requirements, has balanced budgets and is on schedule,” Hillmer says, referring to the Marin measure that partially funded the train in 2008. “SMART continues to make significant progress in preparation for passenger service to begin in the late spring.”

Hillmer’s on-time optimism doesn’t jibe with what voters were promised when Measure Q appeared on the ballot nine years ago—a fully operational train ferrying riders from Cloverdale to Larkspur by 2014, paid entirely by a quarter-cent sales tax.

SMART spokeswoman Jeanne Mariani-Belding notes that a late-game engine snafu caused the latest delay, as she concedes that “federal and regional grants” had to be called upon to keep the project alive when it became clear that the voter-approved tax was not going to be enough to pay for the train.

Expenses keep mounting, a challenging situation which puts more pressure on SMART to deliver a service whose budget is contingent on ridership. Skeptics of SMART’s ticket-revenue note that maximum daily round-trip adult fare to ride the train’s entire route will be fixed at $23, and SMART is offering a slate of discount rates for regular commuters, seniors, youth and disabled passengers.

SMART’s funding has
long been a challenge. Before
Measure Q passed in 2008, Measure R in 2006 failed to earn the two-thirds majority of combined votes between Sonoma and Marin counties. With the most to gain from a train offsetting Highway 101 gridlock, about 70 percent of Sonoma County backed Measure R, but skeptical Marin County voters doomed the proposed quarter-cent tax to pay for SMART.

SMART financing returned as Measure Q and incorporated bicycle paths into the mix. That helped nab it the endorsement of the Marin Bicycle Coalition, among the area’s more vocal activist groups. Marinites again failed to deliver two-thirds support, but overwhelming support in Sonoma County carried the day (the combined vote eclipsed the two-thirds threshold needed to pass it) and the $500 million SMART commuter train was born—with a then-projected completion date of late 2014 and a promise to link Cloverdale to Larkspur, eventually.

But 2008 was more than SMART’s birthday—it also marked the onset of the Great Recession. Citing the economy’s downturn, the SMART district’s revised plan delayed northern Sonoma County SMART service in Healdsburg and Windsor—even as residents there said they needed a commuter train. At the Marin County end of the line, residents sparred with SMART over a proposed two-mile connector line from San Rafael to Larkspur, a key component in getting Bay Area commuters onto cross-bay ferries.

That fight was settled recently with the help of North Coast Congressman Jared Huffman and the Larkspur railroad extension was OK-ed with an expected opening in 2018. Down the road, SMART pledges it will stay true to the original plan. “Future expansion plans include Windsor, Healdsburg and Cloverdale, for a total of 70 miles,” said Mariani-Belding.

SMART critics said the new plan for a “future expansion” belied the original promise made to voters: a complete railway from Cloverdale to Larkspur by 2014. Those opponents complained that the faltering SMART project might have siphoned transportation funds needed for Sonoma and Marin county’s decimated rural roads since the agency tapped state and federal transportation grants. A Measure Q repeal push in 2011 failed and now the double-whammy of disappointment: no train, and the roads are still terrible.

A faltering late-aughts economy also meant a decrease in tax revenues and pushed SMART’s opening to the end of 2016. But a July 2016 engine failure in a Toronto commuter-train system, which uses the same engine-car combination as SMART, pushed the opening into 2017, as all the SMART engines had to be replaced while SMART struggled to sort out problems with its warning systems.

“This new engine problem, and the need to complete our system-wide safety testing . . . has led me to the conclusion that beginning of passenger service by the end of 2016 is not advisable,” wrote SMART general manager Farhad Mansourian in an October 2016 memo to SMART’s board. “We will be working even harder, and target late spring 2017 as our beginning of passenger rail service.”

SMART worked with Cummins Inc., which supplied the train’s diesel engines, and Nippon Sharyo, which designed the trains, to fix a design flaw in the crankshaft, “and replace all 14 of our engines prior to service,” Mariani-Belding explained. The engines are under warranty, and the manufacturer is eating the cost. “Each engine weighs 2.7 tons, so this is no small feat. The good news is that the work is right on schedule, and we now have 13 of the 14 engines replaced.”

She added that the system as a whole, which has also been beset with road-crossing issues up and down the current 43-mile line, is “in the home stretch of some important system-wide safety testing.” Those safety issues have also delayed a final sign-off on the project by the Federal Railroad Administration.

The safety tests include the not-infrequent blaring of train horns, which have been met with complaints from residents near the tracks, an audible reminder that SMART is still not up and running.

Next Steps

Now that Measure A passed, some in the cannabis industry are wondering how the permitting process will work. Sonoma County businesses (except dispensaries) can start applying for business permits July 1. I expect the county is using the next few months to come up with the systems needed to process applications. How are you getting ready?

Proof that you are following the best management practices and operating standards will be necessary to get your permit. If you don’t understand those, you need to learn them immediately. The county has given growers until Jan. 1, 2018, to either come into compliance with local regulations or cease growing.

As for permitting itself, I again urge everyone to read the county’s ordinance. No longer can you form a collective and grow cannabis without government oversight. Assuming your business is properly zoned and complies with the appropriate setbacks and land-use issues, you’ll also have to confront things like air quality and odor, energy use and water supply. This is on top of issues like grading, building, plumbing, septic, electrical, fire, and public health and safety.

Some of these areas will require both professional assistance (such as an engineer) and oversight or approval from other government agencies (such as the North Coast Water Quality Control Board). Successful permitting will require properly completing county applications forms, providing supporting documentation, paying fees and meeting the various requirements and regulations.

It’s that last item that I expect will cause a lot of hair pulling. Going from unregulated to highly regulated will not be easy. I won’t be surprised if many farmers spend hundreds of thousands of dollars to get a local permit, as most properties will need significant expenditures to bring them up to code, especially as they relate to the Americans with Disabilities Act requirements.

One other area to be especially aware of is that many permits are conditional. If I were thinking of getting such a permit, I would want to get a good grasp on how my neighbors feel about a commercial cannabis business before I started the process. Some cannabis businesses that would otherwise qualify will be denied a permit based on neighborhood objections.

You have three months to get your act together. The decision to go forward must be based not only on the economics of your business, but also on the likelihood of getting a permit. Be conservative in your estimated returns, and plan for delays and greater expenses. Success isn’t impossible, but we’re entering an unpredictable new era.

Ben Adams is a local attorney who concentrates his practice on cannabis compliance and defense.

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