‘Cops’ Under Fire

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As the Cops film crews roll with deputies from the Sonoma County Sheriff’s Office (SCSO), there is growing pushback against the controversial reality TV show’s sudden arrival in the county last week—and questions about whether the Santa Rosa Police Department will ride along with the plan.

After an SCSO-led media push celebrated the show’s arrival last week, with multiple outbreaks of the show’s theme appearing in the Press Democrat and KSRO, local elected officials are now questioning the wisdom of allowing film crews into a region hammered by the October wildfires and continuing to deal with fallout from the shooting death of 13-year-old Andy Lopez in 2013. All of that, and it’s an election year, too, which will see the first contested sheriff’s race in more than two decades.

Sonoma County Supervisor Lynda Hopkins represents the part of the county where Lopez was shot by a deputy who remains on the force as a lawsuit against the SCSO and Sonoma County drags on. She wonders if Cops is in the best interest of her constituents.

“Given the heightened anxiety in our community in the wake of the fires, going through a sheriff’s candidacy and election process,” she says, “I would question anything that could disrupt the fragile peace that we have right now in general.”

It’s unknown at press time whether the Santa Rosa police will sign a contract with Langley Productions, the Santa Monica–based production company that produces Cops.

Santa Rosa Police Chief Hank Schreeder is meeting with Santa Rosa City Council members this week and taking the pulse of the community before he makes a decision, say city council members, the city manager’s office and a spokesman for the city police force.

“They are still in the planning phase as far as the contract
goes,” says Santa Rosa police
Lt. Rick Kohut. He says Schreeder might decide to pull the plug on Santa Rosa’s participation in the program. “I would say that it is a possibility,” Kohut says.

At issue is the content of the contract and the extent to which it gives the Santa Rosa Police Department (SRPD) latitude to participate in the editing of the show. The SCSO contract signed in March gives the sheriff’s office final say over what clips are used.

And, says Kohut, the chief is aware of the show’s controversial history of portraying policing in starkly “black-and-white” terms—often literally—and how such portrayals might be viewed as counterproductive to effective policing.

“We absolutely want to avoid that,” Kohut says.

POLARIZING TV

But can they? Even as Langley Productions was emailing the SRPD and SCSO to solicit their interest in participation in January, the Marshall Project criminal-justice organization produced an investigative feature on Cops that declared it the “most polarizing reality show in America.”

That’s a message city officials are hearing as they meet with Schreeder this week to figure out whether to sign on with Cops.

Cops follows a general formula that features an opening bit of action, some reflection in the police cruiser and more action to close out the episode.

The stock-in-trade of the long-running show is the foot chase. It makes for great television—but does it provide a fair depiction of the communities where Cops has filmed?

“Our city image has already been negatively impacted by the fires,” says Santa Rosa council member Julie Combs. “Tourism is already down. We don’t need an unearned and exaggerated portrayal of violent crime too. I’m not sure what the city is getting out of having such a polarizing program filmed here, especially since I don’t think the show is compensating the department, even though they are making money off of it.”

Law enforcements agencies receive no financial benefit from the show’s producers.

Santa Rosa Assistant City Manager Gloria Hurtado says the city is waiting on the chief’s recommendation before deciding how to proceed. His recommendation, she says, will “weigh heavily.”

“The chief is doing due diligence, asking for additional information and deciding whether this is the right thing to do at this time.”

ROCKY ROLLOUT

That’s not how the Cops producer envisioned the run-up to the show’s episodes set in Santa Rosa and Sonoma County. An email exchange between producer Zach Ragsdale and the show’s public relations firm the Lippin Group provides insight into what Cops‘ producers had hoped would happen.

The original plan was for the SRPD and SCSO to roll with the cameras at the same time. It’s unclear what would become of the sheriff’s office’s participation if the SRPD decides to pull the plug on Cops.

Cops has come under fire for its portrayals of racial basis. In 2013, the civil rights group Color of Change successfully pushed Fox to drop the program based on its claim of persistent racial bias. It’s now on the Paramount Network. The show has changed channels, but not its treatment of race, says Arisha Hatch, Color of Change’s managing director of campaigns. She ran the Fox campaign for Color of Change in 2013.

“Our concerns about the show then are the same as our concerns about the show now.”

Hatch says that she wouldn’t expect any episode of Cops filmed in Sonoma County to be an accurate portrayal of the criminal-justice system there, “because it’s just not set up that way. . . . It has been kind of a [public relations] machine for police departments across the country for several decades now.”

The Bohemian emailed questions to Langley Productions about racial bias, the status of the contract with SRPD and what role, if any, last year’s fires played in the selection of Sonoma County. An email exchange inadvertently sent to the Bohemian between Ragsdale, who signed the SCSO contract on behalf of Langley Productions and is the point person on a presumptive SRPD contract, and the show’s PR firm revealed some of the producers’ thinking.

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“This is the first time filming with this agency [SRPD],” Ragsdale wrote to the Lippin Group. “We were supposed to start filming with them last week when we started with Sonoma County but the city was slow to get the agreement complete, so I pushed the start date for Santa Rosa PD to May. The agreement still isn’t done. I prefer to give this guy as little as possible.”

The fires? The fires, Ragsdale wrote, had nothing to do with the show’s decision to come to Sonoma County.

The persistent charges of racism raised by Color of Change? “You already know how to answer this one,” Ragsdale wrote to the PR firm. The answer: don’t answer it.

After the back-and-forth between Ragdsale and the Lippin Group, Langley Productions provided the following statement to the Bohemian: “We are looking forward to featuring the exceptional work the men and women of the Sonoma County Sheriff’s Office do everyday in upcoming episodes of Cops.”

After learning about the mistakenly sent email, Cops‘ executive producer Morgan Langley weighed in: “The intent of Cops is to document the reality of policing on the ground as it happens. There is no intended bias in the show.”

ENTERTAINMENT OR REALITY?

Color of Change’s work on this issue hasn’t gone unnoticed by Santa Rosa officials. Less clear is whether anyone at SCSO is aware that Cops is considered by police-accountability advocates to be a highly problematic program.

“Studies have shown that this TV program portrays a disproportionate number of people of color than the actual percentage involved in crimes,” Combs says. “And it shows violent crimes disproportionately—and also underrepresents women and minorities on the police force itself. It also misrepresents effective police work. I think our city is better than this.”

The controversy over Cops now touches on who will be Sonoma County’s next sheriff and heightened scrutiny of law enforcement accountability following Lopez’s death and officer-involved shootings across the country.

Ernesto Olivares wears three hats in this debate as a member of the Santa Rosa City Council, a former city cop and a candidate for sheriff. He says that if it had been his decision to make, he would have said no to Cops.

“My historical perspective is that it hasn’t really provided any real public benefit,” he says as he emphasizes ongoing efforts at police accountability and transparency in the county.

Candidate John Mutz, a former Los Angeles police captain, says he could support Cops if it portrayed “honest transparency” in policing. At its best, he says the show portrays police officers on the beat doing a difficult job.

“People have to understand that it’s a show based on ratings and entertainment,” and that if it does reflect biases, “that is not acceptable. From my POV, as sheriff, I wouldn’t participate in that kind of viewpoint. In that case, this is more of the corporate-media coverage of crime. It is not helpful and is strictly entertainment.”

Mark Essick, the other candidate for sheriff, is currently on the SCSO force and did not respond to a request for comment.

Chief Schreeder’s due diligence is not the typical response of local law enforcement when contacted by Cops, says Hatch. In her study of the show, she has never seen a situation where “there is an effort to get community buy-in, and it’s part of the normal [public relations] machine that has been intentionally set up.”

“It might be rare, but it’s not rare in Santa Rosa,” says Olivares, who likens Schreeder’s effort to the city’s recent rollout of body-cameras. “When Schreeder introduced body cameras, he initiated input throughout the community to help shape the policy.”

Not so at SCSO, which did not reach out for community input before signing the contract with Cops on Feb. 7. The show’s producer told the sheriff’s office that SRPD would be participating.

Sheriff’s office spokesman
Sgt. Spencer Crum says SCSO had not consulted with SRPD “at all about their decision to be involved. Don’t know their decisions, other than a Cops producer told us they had agreed.”

Crum has praise for the show and did not address questions about bias.

Cops provides a platform to provide information to the public on the good work being done by Sonoma County deputies and the challenges they face on the streets,” Crum said in response to a set of emailed questions. “It’s also a chance to showcase how far along policing, training and community relations have come since Cops started filming 31 years ago.”

The SCSO’s work with Cops had nothing to do with ongoing fallout from the Lopez incident, says Crum, who adds that the sheriff’s office based its decision on input from the Stockton Police Department, where Cops recently filmed.

“The filming of Cops was widely accepted by the community, the elected leaders and their individual officers.”

Crum believes police-accountability groups would appreciate the sheriff’s office’s efforts to provide “better transparency on a local and a national level.”

Hatch, for one, does not.

“The show never tackles accountability,” says Hatch. “It paints a one-sided view of law enforcement. At its worst, Cops is very cheap to produce, and it’s a very dangerous television show,” she says, noting that police officers can and do perform for the cameras, as she highlights that there is no profit or benefit to the community. The profits go to the Paramount Network, “and those are the people who are profiteering off of the pain of the individuals and the community. There is nothing to gain for Sonoma in Cops coming to town.”

We’re Not Going to Take It

Due to an editing error, Alissa Hirshfeld-Flores’ Open Mic was transposed with another column. Her correct column is now below. The Bohemian regrets the error.

In the movie “Network,” the prophetic newscaster says: “[You’ve] got to say, ‘I’m a human being, damn it! My life has value!’…I want you to get up right now and go to the window…and yell, ‘I’m mad as hell and I’m not going to take this anymore!’”

Here we are, 40 years after this movie opened. Many of us are beyond mad, and beginning to say so. Women are speaking out about harassment. People of color are proclaiming that black lives matter. And teens are taking matters into their own hands, speaking out against gun violence and even running for office themselves.

Since the Parkland shooting, there have been half a dozen threats at local high schools, including my daughter’s. Today, she asked if she should wear a certain pair of chic boots, worried that they were impractical from running away from a potential shooter. Our kids should not be having to worry about such things. How do we engender a sense of trust in our children when the world is so obviously unsafe? How do we protect our community’s kids, still healing from the trauma of the wildfires?

It’s beyond time for commonsense gun laws, as well as stronger gun regulations, and perhaps a community buy-back program and a boycott of gun vendors.

In terms of the president’s idea to address mental health issues, we can start by reinstating the law passed under President Obama making it harder for people with a history of instability to acquire firearms. We can put money into preventive treatment. We can teach our boys that it is manly to express a full range of emotion, not only anger and violence. We can provide mental health coverage as part of a universal health plan and engage in a public health campaign to de-stigmatize seeking treatment. We can adequately fund and staff mental health institutions or even better, develop a system of safe places people can go to “cool off,” to work through issues of grief and trauma with compassionate healers—without being penalized for taking time off work, charged untenable costs or forced into warehouses to medicate rather than to truly heal.

If nothing else in these divided times, we all do share the same humanity and hopefully love for our children. So let’s collectively open the windows of our souls and call out: “We’re mad as hell, and we will not take it anymore!”

Alissa Hirshfeld-Flores, MFT, lives in Santa Rosa.

Open Mic is a weekly feature in the ‘Bohemian.’ We welcome your contribution. To have your topical essay of 350 words considered for publication, write op*****@******an.com.

Letters to the Editor: March 28, 2017

Taking Aim
at the NRA

Hats off to the Florida high school students for taking the lead for a sane gun policy in America. To keep things moving forward, let me be the first to suggest the National Rifle Association be considered a domestic terrorist organization, and dealt with as such. The NRA has successfully defeated every attempt at banning the assault weapons that are now killing scores of innocent Americans on a regular basis. They own the president and a majority of Congress. We’re learning the NRA is now international in scope, having moved money from Russia to our last election for the purpose of electing a man who is creating domestic havoc. They have no suggestions on ending the mass murders other than “more guns.” Really?

There is absolutely no reason for a sane, law-abiding member of our society to own what is essentially a machine gun. The NRA has ensured that every misfit who wants a mass murder weapon has ready access to one.

Yes, I know, the Constitution grants the right to “bear arms,” but we impose reasonable limits. Citizens are not free to own bombs or rocket launchers, so why automatic weapons? To our neighbors who may be NRA members, please take some time to consider what your gun club has become. It’s no longer about the best deer rifle or teaching junior how to plink cans with grandpa’s .22; it’s about enabling mass murderers. Maybe it’s time for high school students to run the show.

Geyserville

Special Treatment

This is an open letter to the Santa Rosa City Council. Speaking in favor of including parts of downtown in multiple districts in its new plan, Mayor Chris Coursey said, “It’s not a gift to the business community. It’s a recognition that this is the most vital part of the city.”

It left me wondering if Mayor Coursey actually understands the concept of democracy. Democracy is one person, one vote, and everyone registered to vote in Santa Rosa is free to vote for the candidate most likely to represent their economic interests, if they so desire. But businesses and their owners are no more important in a democracy than all those individuals who are not part of the downtown business community.

Districts are required because the wealthier and more business-connected individuals in Santa Rosa have had too much representation for far too long. This gerrymandering of the districts seems an intentional subversion of the remedy that districting is supposed to try to alleviate. Citizens may decide to vote for downtown interests, or not. That is their right. It is not your right to make that decision for them in advance.

Santa Rosa

Dept. of Corrections

Last week’s Best Of issue omitted Zialena Winery, winner of Sonoma County’s “Best Emerging Winery.” And Napa Valley Performing Arts Center at Lincoln Theater, winner of “Best Peforming Arts Center,” was misidentified. The Bohemian regrets the errors.

Write to us at le*****@******an.com.

Art in Bloom

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Creativity is blossoming in the Napa Valley.

For the past eight years, the region has welcomed spring with the month-long Arts in April showcase of exhibits and events that highlight local talent in world-class locations. In 2018, spring’s sense of renewal is juxtaposed to the region’s feelings of loss as the North Bay recovers from the destruction of October’s wildfires. It’s a duality that longtime Calistoga resident, director of ArtQuest at Santa Rosa High School and the new gallery owner Jan Sofie understands.

“Arts in April is a fabulous spring event in Napa Valley,” says Sofie, who opened Sofie Contemporary Arts gallery in the heart of downtown Calistoga with her husband, Scott, in September 2017, one month before the Tubbs fire forced the evacuation of the entire town. “However, under the circumstances we have this new reality to face [after] the fire,” she says. “What we really need to do is not to pretend it didn’t happen, but to say, ‘It’s spring, it’s beautiful, we can rise again.'”

When it opened, Sofie Contemporary Arts’ mission was to give a meaningful venue for new art that is diverse in media, styles and approaches. Sofie adds that all the art shown in the gallery is in some way connected to California, and often to Calistoga specifically, be it subject- or artist-related. “The tagline we use is ‘Contemporary, California, Calistoga,'” she says.

Part of that ideal includes involvement in Arts in April. For Calistoga’s celebratory weekend, known as “Sarafornia,” that kicks off Arts in April each year, Sofie Contemporary Arts hosts the annual “Flower Bomb” exhibit April 6–8, with an opening reception April 5, in which floral designers create arrangements paired with pieces of art.

Rather than pair the flowers with classic or well-known paintings as in years past, Sofie is inviting the florists to create arrangements that respond to a larger exhibit, “Artist Spring:
The Fire & the Rose Are One,” that features works by 15 Northern California artists which both reflect on last year’s fires and offer a sense of resurgence and rebirth.

Artists featured in the show include Karen Lynn Ingalls,
whose studio was lost in the Tubbs fire. Ingalls’ new paintings incorporate ashes from her studio in acrylic landscapes that appear to emerge from the ruins.

Calistoga’s “Sarafornia” weekend also commemorates the town’s grassroots artistic spirit with the interactive ENGAGE Art Fair at the Napa County Fairgrounds, April 6–8, and the Storytelling Speakeasy at Tank Garage Winery on April 7.

“I’ve always been enamored with the idea that when we create something, we can change things,” says Sofie. “Now we can make something and create change that is meaningful even if, and especially because, we recognize the intensity of what we’ve gone through as a community.”

Trial by Storm

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One wouldn’t think a play that deals with the wreckage left behind by a natural disaster would be particularly attractive to North Bay residents right now, but Sharyn Rothstein’s By the Water speaks to what our community is going through. While it’s set in 2012 on New York’s Staten Island after Hurricane Sandy, the human and material devastation portrayed might as well be set in Coffey Park today.

The show opens with Marty and Mary Murphy (Mike Pavone and Mary Gannon Graham) returning to what’s left of their storm-ravaged home to begin the process of rebuilding. Word comes that the government may be offering buyouts to the residents, as long as 80 percent of the neighborhood is willing to sell. The Murphy’s son Sal (Mark Bradbury) and their best friends, Philip and Andrea Carter (Clark Miller and Madeleine Ashe), are all for getting out, but Marty is resistant.

Actually, Marty is more than resistant, as he recruits his other son, Brian (Jared Wright), to actively campaign against the buyout. He speaks of family and community and history, but there’s another reason for his intransigence. That reason just may do the job that Hurricane Sandy couldn’t and finish off the family.

Rothstein’s script is Arthur Milleresque in its examination of a middle-class American family in economic crisis. The shadow of Death of a Salesman hangs over this production, with its floundering patriarch, long-suffering-but-loyal wife, sons whose lives took different paths, a financially supportive friend, family secrets, etc. But Rothstein has effectively updated the story and added a few layers, though some, like a subplot involving Brian’s rekindling of an old flame (Katie Kelley), feel superfluous.

Director Carl Jordan has an impressive cast with leads Graham and Pavone terrific as spouses whose relationship is put to the test, not by the disaster, but by what it reveals about the family. Bradbury and Wright do well as the siblings who have their own issues but whose love for each other is clear. Madeleine Ashe delivers the most devastating line in the play—a single sentence that speaks of the desperation and frustration that many in this community now feel: “I’m 60, and I have nothing.”

The pain in that line was palpable, and yet it was also cathartic. By the Water is not a story of natural disaster, but of human resilience. It’s our story.

Rating (out of 5): ★★★★

‘By the Water’ runs Friday–Sunday through April 8 at Spreckels Performing Arts Center, 5409 Snyder Lane, Rohnert Park. Friday–Saturday, 8pm; 2pm matinee, Sunday; Thursday, April 5, performance at 7:30pm. $16–$28. 707.588.3400.

Friends in Folk

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Folk trio I’m With Her, who make their Sonoma County debut with a show on April 4 at the Luther Burbank Center for the Arts, are something of a folk supergroup, featuring Sara Watkins, Sarah Jarosz and Aoife O’Donovan.

Individually, these songwriters have formed seminal bands like Watkins’ Nickel Creek and O’Donovan’s Crooked Still, and their respective solo outputs have garnered international praise.

After crossing paths in the contemporary folk scene for many years, the three first shared a stage together at an impromptu performance in the summer of 2014.

“We’d all been friends and colleagues—that’s sort of a funny word to describe folk musicians—but we’ve known each other for many years,” says O’Donovan, who explains that the trio discovered a spark in their vocal blend at a workshop during the 2014 Telluride Bluegrass Festival in Colorado. “Later that night, we put together a short opening set for the Punch Brothers, and the next day we all said, ‘Wow, that was really special, should we take this one step further?'”

They did. For the last several years, I’m With Her, named after an early tour of the same title, have collaboratively shared their sparkling harmonies and stripped-down acoustic styling with audiences throughout the United States and Europe.

The band’s recently released debut album,

See You Around, is also a collaborative effort.

“It was so different from [my solo songwriting] and so rewarding,” says O’Donovan about making the new album. “With Sara and Sarah, when we decided we wanted to write the music all together, it was part of the idea that this was a band. We all have a joint ownership of the material.”

Co-produced by Ethan Johns (Ryan Adams, Paul McCartney) and recorded live at Peter Gabriel’s Real World Studios in Bath, England, See You Around comprises 11 originals and a never-before-released Gillian Welch song, “Hundred Miles.”

Of course, the band pre-dates the #MeToo movement by several years, though O’Donovan says I’m With Her represents camaraderie in a folk scene that can feel like a boys club.

“We’re musicians first and foremost. We view ourselves as equals to one another and our
male peers,” O’Donovan says. “My goal is that it becomes a non-issue, that we are just a band, the same way a band with three men is a band and nobody’s calling them a dude band.”

Doggone It

In Wes Anderson’s Moonrise Kingdom, runaway kids Sam and Suzy stumble across the corpse of a dog with an arrow in it. Suzy asks, “Was he a good dog?” Sam replies, philosophically, “Who can say?”

This New Yorker cartoon caption was a highlight of that movie—heartlessly debonair and tonic among the swoonier parts. But in Anderson’s crafty yet off-putting Isle of Dogs, this kind of coolness is a tonal mistake.

In the film, a dog flu plagues 2038 Japan. Kobayashi, the ominous mayor-for-life of Megashima, takes action before the disease jumps to humans. All dogs are sent to a quarantined island. Kobayashi’s ward and “distant nephew,” Atari (Koyu Rankin), flies in a makeshift airplane to rescue his exiled pet Spots, (voiced by Liev Schrieber). It crashes and Atari is marooned. Meanwhile, a pack of bad-off mutts surviving on garbage are catalyzed into action by Chief (Bryan Cranston), a stray dog for life, whose motto is “I bite.”

Anderson’s animators work small, trying to capture a nation where people tend to swallow their emotions. But in a culture where the minimal is so important, Anderson crowds in his usual bric-a-brac—whether it’s the step-by-step sushi preparation or the flashcard-like listing of story elements.

Anderson, trying to keep Isle of Dogs from getting mired in overdone emotions, errs too far in the opposite direction. The result is something that doesn’t really arouse feelings, no matter how many animated dogs stare us down, sometimes with tears in their eyes.

The borrowings from The Lady and the Tramp work, as when the show dog Nutmeg (Scarlett Johansson) tells Chief she’s uncertain about finding a mate: “I wouldn’t want to bring puppies into this world.” Anderson channels the old classic cartoons, staging dogfights that are giant clouds of dust with limbs emerging from it. But he seems torn between honoring what the Japanese call “beauty in sadness”—mono no aware—and parodying it.

After the Fire

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When songwriter, producer and longtime Bay Area music industry figure Scott Mickelson was growing up, there was no such thing as DIY in the recording industry. “You either had a record deal, or you didn’t,” says Mickelson, who formed San Francisco alt-rock outfit Fat Opie more than 20 years ago. “I went through all those paces, and I’m at a place in my life where I can pay forward a lot of that experience.”

For the last seven years, Mickelson has done just that while producing albums for younger artists in his Mill Valley home recording studio. “I like to work with artists who are interested in pushing the boundaries of what they can do,” he says.

Last October, Mickelson watched in horror as wildfires ravaged the North Bay. “My wife and I have been enjoying Napa and Sonoma since 1987,” Mickelson says. “It hit me hard, the thought that it won’t ever be the same in our lifetime.”

Mickelson pushed his own musical limits when he called up 15 artists like David Luning and the Crux to record brand-new songs for a benefit compilation album, After the Fire: Vol. 1. All proceeds from album sales go to fire-relief efforts.

Taste of Home

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At D’s Diner, Sonoma County’s perennial best diner in the Bohemian‘s Best Of readers poll (they won again this year), you’d expect the burgers to be good. And they are.

Mel’s Magic Burger (a bacon cheddar cheeseburger) is the top-selling item on the menu. Primus’ Les Claypool wrote an ode to D’s that praises the Caliente burger. I like the burgers, too, but it’s a nontraditional diner item that stands out: the falafel sandwich.

Musa Awad has owned D’s for 10 years, but only put falafel on the menu five years ago. Awad, a Palestinian from Ramallah, understands that American diner fare is his bread and butter and he didn’t want to detract from that, but he also wanted to share his passion for falafel.

“We wanted to introduce people to our food,” Awad says. “It was always my dream to sell falafels. And they just flew. They sell quite a bit.”

In Palestine, and the Middle East in general, the falafel is the equivalent of the hamburger, everyday food available from street vendors and cafes. There’s a debate over who invented the dish. The Israelis and Palestinians both lay claim to it. Awad, as you might guess, credits the Palestinians.

“In Palestine, the falafel is very particular,” he says. Awad imports a mixture from his hometown that’s a blend of ground cumin, coriander, nutmeg and caraway. He stores the mixture in a large, yellow plastic canister that looks like it once held mustard. He holds the container up to his nose and inhales deeply before handing it to his daughter Nadeen and beckoning her to do the same.

“What does this smell remind you of?” She takes a whiff of the heady aroma. “Ramallah,” she replies, joining him in smile and a faraway look.

To make falafel, he adds the spices to garbanzo beans that have soaked in water for 18 hours, then adds fresh parsley, cilantro, jalapeño, garlic and onions, grinds it all up and empties the mixture into a large bowl.

“You mix it like you’re making pizza dough,” says Awad. “You mix it by hand.” He says he doesn’t have a recipe. He goes by taste and feedback from his family.

From there, the batter is formed into balls and fried in oil. Each sandwich ($6.50) gets a generous four balls of falafel.

The falafel balls, tahini, hummus, diced tomatoes, cucumbers, thin pickles and lettuce, are stuffed into a commodious pita bread that somehow holds together in spite of the load it carries. The bread is delivered from Jerusalem Bakery, a specialty baker in Sacramento. It’s a great sandwich. My only quibble would be the out-of-season tomatoes. They don’t add much, and I picked them out.

A falafel sandwich should be verging on messy—dripping hummus, tahini and all the condiments. On its own, a falafel is flavorful but rather dry. It needs the creamy richness of hummus and the lemony bite of tahini sauce and pickles to complement it. And that it does.

Awad had fond memories of his father bringing falafel home when he was a child. “It was a treat.” He makes his falafels with the same affection.

“You have to put your heart and soul into it,” he says. “Otherwise, it won’t taste good.”

D’s Diner, 7260 Healdsburg Ave., Sebastopol. 707.829.8080.

Dark Arts

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Location, location, location? No doubt that’s still a viable mantra in the domains of real estate and restaurants. But for breweries recently launched in the thick of craft-brew revolution 2.0, like Barrel Brothers Brewing in Windsor? Not really. It’s just about beer, beer, beer.

The Barrel Brothers have had no trouble tempting the thirsty to their out-of-the-way taproom, tucked in an industrial court behind a Home Depot and shared with discount flooring and auto shops. It’s actually a newer and somewhat snazzy industrial court. The taproom opens via rollup door, displaying ping pong and foosball tables in an area that the brewery expanded into in the fall of 2017. Originally, I’m told, brothers-in-law Wesley Deal and Daniel Weber planned a production-only facility, but opened a small tasting room to satiate thirsty and curious beer fans.

Don’t expect a brewpub—some of the only food on sale is jerky, but on the upside, your well-behaved pooch may crunch on similar treats while you sample the golden-hued Naughty Hops IPA, a lightly pine-scented IPA sweetened with a hint of caramel, or the floral March Fadness New England–style hazy IPA (a trend-chaser with a delightfully sardonic moniker).

The double IPAs here seem to mainly up the malt, not the hops, despite the roster on the helpfully info-heavy beer menu: at 9.5 percent alcohol by volume (ABV), Hello Dankness, My Old Friend is a strong-tasting IPA more reminiscent of ye olde barley wine. Before I drove away, I forgot to taste (perhaps fortuitously) a strong ale called Bamboozelry that claims to be 20 percent ABV!

The brewery’s flagship porter, Dark Sarcasm, is sold in bottles and cans in the brewery and on the market. At 7 percent ABV, it’s a slightly sweet, chocolate and coffee-inflected “meal in a glass” porter that hits the right balance between creamy and bitter. An alluring, tangy, barrel-aged version of this beer is called Black Velvet.

I wanted to like a sour, barrel-aged beer called Leatherbound Books (available by the bottle for $18), and I did—made with dried cherries, figs, dates, prunes and blackcurrants, and a host of funky bacteria, then aged for months in Pinot Noir barrels, it’s still as fresh tasting as a cherry cider or a young Beaujolais. But if it’s not quite as beguiling as the Duchesse de Bourgogne that it aspires to, well, just add time, time, time.

Barrel Brothers Brewing Company,
399 Business Park Court #506, Windsor. Samples, $3–$4.50 per five ounces; 10 ounces, $4–$9; basic pints, $5.50. Monday–Friday, 4–8pm; Saturday–Sunday, 1–8pm. 707.696.9487.

‘Cops’ Under Fire

As the Cops film crews roll with deputies from the Sonoma County Sheriff's Office (SCSO), there is growing pushback against the controversial reality TV show's sudden arrival in the county last week—and questions about whether the Santa Rosa Police Department will ride along with the plan. After an SCSO-led media push celebrated the show's arrival last week, with multiple outbreaks...

We’re Not Going to Take It

Due to an editing error, Alissa Hirshfeld-Flores' Open Mic was transposed with another column. Her correct column is now below. The Bohemian regrets the error. In the movie “Network,” the prophetic newscaster says: “ got to say, 'I'm a human being, damn it! My life has value!'…I want you to get up right now and go to the window…and...

Letters to the Editor: March 28, 2017

Taking Aim at the NRA Hats off to the Florida high school students for taking the lead for a sane gun policy in America. To keep things moving forward, let me be the first to suggest the National Rifle Association be considered a domestic terrorist organization, and dealt with as such. The NRA has successfully defeated every attempt at banning...

Art in Bloom

Creativity is blossoming in the Napa Valley. For the past eight years, the region has welcomed spring with the month-long Arts in April showcase of exhibits and events that highlight local talent in world-class locations. In 2018, spring's sense of renewal is juxtaposed to the region's feelings of loss as the North Bay recovers from the destruction of October's wildfires....

Trial by Storm

One wouldn't think a play that deals with the wreckage left behind by a natural disaster would be particularly attractive to North Bay residents right now, but Sharyn Rothstein's By the Water speaks to what our community is going through. While it's set in 2012 on New York's Staten Island after Hurricane Sandy, the human and material devastation portrayed...

Friends in Folk

Folk trio I'm With Her, who make their Sonoma County debut with a show on April 4 at the Luther Burbank Center for the Arts, are something of a folk supergroup, featuring Sara Watkins, Sarah Jarosz and Aoife O'Donovan. Individually, these songwriters have formed seminal bands like Watkins' Nickel Creek and O'Donovan's Crooked Still, and their respective solo outputs have...

Doggone It

In Wes Anderson's Moonrise Kingdom, runaway kids Sam and Suzy stumble across the corpse of a dog with an arrow in it. Suzy asks, "Was he a good dog?" Sam replies, philosophically, "Who can say?" This New Yorker cartoon caption was a highlight of that movie—heartlessly debonair and tonic among the swoonier parts. But in Anderson's crafty yet off-putting Isle...

After the Fire

When songwriter, producer and longtime Bay Area music industry figure Scott Mickelson was growing up, there was no such thing as DIY in the recording industry. "You either had a record deal, or you didn't," says Mickelson, who formed San Francisco alt-rock outfit Fat Opie more than 20 years ago. "I went through all those paces, and I'm at...

Taste of Home

At D's Diner, Sonoma County's perennial best diner in the Bohemian's Best Of readers poll (they won again this year), you'd expect the burgers to be good. And they are. Mel's Magic Burger (a bacon cheddar cheeseburger) is the top-selling item on the menu. Primus' Les Claypool wrote an ode to D's that praises the Caliente burger. I like the...

Dark Arts

Location, location, location? No doubt that's still a viable mantra in the domains of real estate and restaurants. But for breweries recently launched in the thick of craft-brew revolution 2.0, like Barrel Brothers Brewing in Windsor? Not really. It's just about beer, beer, beer. The Barrel Brothers have had no trouble tempting the thirsty to their out-of-the-way taproom, tucked in...
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