Talking Pictures

0

Passion Play

Close encounter: Emily Watson and James Frain star in Hilary and Jackie.

Poet Jane Hirshfield on genius, happiness, and the film ‘Hilary and Jackie’

By David Templeton

Writer David Templeton–driven by an impulse he has never properly explained–takes interesting people to interesting movies in an ongoing quest for the ultimate post-film conversation. Each discussion is taped, labeled, and cataloged. When moved to do so, Templeton shares these tangential chitchats with the public. This time out he takes renowned poet and teacher Jane Hirshfield to see Hilary and Jackie.

JANE HIRSHFIELD gazes down at the round, white, marble-topped table between us. Sliding her decaf mocha to one side, and placing both of her hands on the cool, smooth stone, she glances up and smiles.

“They talked about wanting to be special,” she says, referring to Hilary and Jacqueline du Pré, the two real-life sisters at the center of the provocative new film Hilary and Jackie. Now seated at a small cafe in downtown Sausalito–Hirshfield lives in nearby Mill Valley–we’ve already found much to discuss since seeing the film at a nearby theater.

“Special,” Hirshfield repeats. “Well. I would say this about being special. Special doesn’t matter. This tabletop is not trying to be special. It doesn’t need to. It is sufficient in itself. As a matter of fact–it’s perfect.”

“At the very least,” I reply, now gazing at the table myself, “it certainly isn’t unhappy.”

“Definitely not,” Hirshfield says, laughing, patting its glistening surface. “No suffering here.”

Jacqueline du Pré, on the other hand–as portrayed in the film by Emily Watson–was most decidedly unhappy–this in spite of enormous international success as a concert cellist in the 1960s. The real Jackie du Pré died at the age of 42, a victim of a long illness, multiple sclerosis, that ended her career years before taking her life. Conversely, Hilary du Pré–who with her brother, Piers du Pré, wrote A Genius in the Family, the book on which the film is based–traded her own dream of playing the flute in concert for the less-glamorous role of mother and wife. Initially considered the more gifted of the two, Hilary (played by Rachel Griffiths) watched as her sister, by sheer effort and stubbornness, essentially willed herself into becoming a world-class musician. Ironically, it was Hilary who found the deeper happiness that always eluded Jackie.

“That’s one of the things that I found so interesting in the movie,” Hirshfield says, “that Jackie became a great musician out of envy. ‘God damn it, I will be noticed!’ Through sheer willpower, she changed roles with her sister. She became the genius.

“And that was an almost fateful wrong turn–because it didn’t work. It didn’t give Jackie the happiness she wanted. It didn’t give her the consolation she wanted. It makes the story a tragedy of the classical Greek kind.”

Hirshfield, renowned as a poet and teacher, is the author of numerous award-winning books of poetry, including The October Palace and The Lives of the Heart. She edited Women in Praise of the Sacred: 43 Centuries of Spiritual Poetry by Women, and crafted dazzling translations in The Ink Dark Moon: Love Poems of Ono No Komachi and Izumi Shikibu. She is also the author of a recent book of essays, Nine Gates: Entering the Mind of Poetry, praised by the poet and fellow Zen-practitioner Gary Snyder as being “fearless” and full of “diamond-hard insights.” She is widely considered one of our country’s greatest living poets.

AS FOR THAT aforementioned notion–illustrated so clearly in the film–that artistic genius can be built by effort and determination alone, Hirshfield is still pondering the idea.

“Well, you know that saying ‘Ten percent inspiration and 90 percent perspiration,’ ” she says. “But what the movie is saying is that, without great ambition, no one will become a great artist.

“I don’t want to agree with that,” she adds. “But it doesn’t mean it may not be true.”

“It’s certainly an idea that is supported by our culture,” I note.

“That’s the Western romantic image of the artist, that art is born of striving and torment,” Hirshfield replies. “And in Jackie’s case, as shown here, it was that torment of wishing to be seen–and wishing to be loved.

“And yet,” she muses, “that desire is presented as something unworkable in the end, because life will strip you of all accomplishments. It will. Life strips everybody of all their accomplishments, some sooner than others. But nobody dies with their accomplishments. You simply die with your heart.

“If anything in the film troubles me,” she goes on, “it might be the implication that the one who chases art won’t be happy, and that the one who will be happy is the one who walks away from the realm of creativity. I think that’s a cultural stereotype, and it’s unfortunate. It’s the Sylvia Plath model, the ‘art-and-unhappiness’ connection.

“It says that the artist is a person who will never be satisfied, that the artist is always self-centered. And of course, in this movie–if you step way back from the fact that this is biography, that it actually happened–there’s the notion that the artist will pay. The artist will suffer. The artist will get MS and die, while the non-artist will stay healthy and will breed and live on. And that troubles me, because I don’t think there’s one way of doing anything. So when that old stereotype leaps up–particularly as put onto women–it is, to me, a bit of a difficulty.”

Hirshfield pauses, absently running her hand along the table once again. After a moment, she describes the time she read all of Yeats’ poems, chronologically, from first to the last.

“I was quite delighted to see some very bad poems in there,” she admits. “It was nice to know that Yeats, too, could write badly. Because if Yeats can write badly, then I can write badly–and it doesn’t mean the end of everything. It merely means we all write badly.

“The trick,” she says, “is to sometimes write well.”

From the February 11-17, 1999 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Luis Rodriguez

Class War

Always Running doesn’t belong in classrooms.



Luis Rodriguez casts a skeptical eye on attempts to ban his autobiography

By Patrick Sullivan

IT’S A HARD-CORE book. I’m the first to admit that,” says Luis Rodriguez. “There’s a lot of graphic material. But that’s done for a reason. There’s no way you can write this kind of book without getting as close as possible to what these young people are going through.”

Speaking by phone from his home in Chicago, the controversial author maintains a remarkably even tone as he discusses ongoing efforts to boot his award-winning autobiography out of school libraries and classrooms across California. His gravelly, lightly accented voice betrays no hint of anger as he tallies up the growing list of bitter battles over Always Running–a graphic account of life among L.A. street gangs. Last July, the Santa Rosa Board of Education voted unanimously to sharply restrict use in district schools of the 1993 book. Recently the book has been the focus of school board struggles in Fremont and San Jose, and just last week San Diego began to grapple with the issue.

Rodriguez is fighting back by speaking out in defense of his life’s story. He will appear at the Sebastopol Veterans Auditorium on Feb. 20 to talk about Always Running at a banquet given by the local chapter of the American Civil Liberties Union, which recently sponsored a high school essay contest on the issue (For the winning contest entry, see “Contest Winner, next page). And no matter how nasty the fight gets, here or elsewhere, the author says he’s determined not to take the attacks on his book personally. He has, after all, been through all this before.

“In Rockford, Illinois, when they banned my book, which was the first time [book banning] was ever done in the Rockford school district, they went ahead and banned 16 other books,” he says. “So there seems to be more than just my book at stake. There’s an agenda of keeping other voices, certain experiences, certain kinds of literature out of the hands of our kids. It’s bigger than just Always Running.”

About the only time Rodriguez does get hot under the collar is when he starts discussing common attitudes toward the troubled kids his book was intended to help, the at-risk teenagers that he still works with as a youth counselor and community organizer. Many people, Rodriguez says, don’t understand inner-city kids and gangs half as well as they imagine they do.

“They don’t know these kids,” he says emphatically. “They haven’t spent time with them. People want to be tough on crime, but I tell you, the toughest thing is to walk down these streets, to care about these kids. That’s tough.”

Banned in Santa Rosa?

A Windsor High School student speaks out on the controversy.

Life on the street is a subject that the author himself, now 45, understands from firsthand youthful experience. Born in Mexico, Rodriguez grew up in East Los Angeles amid poverty, racism, and gang warfare. By the time he was a teenager, he’d witnessed countless acts of savage violence committed by everyone from gang members to the L.A. Sheriff’s Department. As he explains in Always Running, Rodriguez joined a local gang because it seemed to offer protection and power in a dangerous world: “I was a broken boy, shy and fearful. I wanted what Thee Mystics had; I wanted the power to hurt somebody.”

But years spent immersed in La Vida Loca, the crazy life, left a terrible mark on the young man. Suicide, murder, and drugs took the lives of friends and family members. Slowly, painfully, he broke free from violence and despair, and eventually went on to become an award-winning poet (his latest book is Trochemoche), an activist, and a journalist.

Then, in the early ’90s, Rodriguez saw his 15-year-old son, Ramiro, descending rapidly into gang life. Determined to educate and protect the boy, the author put his own youthful experiences down on paper. Always Running was the provocative result.

Critics of the book argue that, far from preventing gang violence, Always Running actually glorifies it: “Mr. Rodriguez is long on graphic sex, drug abuse, and violence, but short on consequences,” one speaker told the Santa Rosa Board of Education.

Rodriguez is flabbergasted by such views.

“I would say they haven’t read the book,” he says. “It does not glorify or demonize gang involvement. Both views distort reality. I work with gang kids today, and I realize that these kids have rational reasons for joining gangs, and I also realize that it can be very destructive and against their own dignity and value as human beings. It’s a complicated thing, and we should spend time looking at it.”

What, exactly, is all the fuss about? Here’s one excerpt from Always Running that’s outraged critics: “The dude looked at me through glazed eyes, horrified at my presence, at what I held in my hands, at this twisted, swollen face that came at him through the dark. Do it! were the last words I recalled before I plunged the screwdriver into flesh and bone, and the sky screamed.”

Could Rodriguez have told his story without the use of graphic language? Would the book have packed the same powerful punch?

“I’m convinced it wouldn’t,” the author says. “There’s a level of authenticity, a level of ‘Do you know what you’re talking about?’ You can’t just preach to people about this. What the kids are living is even worse [than what I wrote]. The sex scenes are nothing compared to what some of these kids are going through today. The drug scenes, which are very vivid in my book, are so much worse now. The violence, even as terrible as it may have been in my book, is just more extensive and more intensive today. “

Some observers, including the ACLU, argue that racial tensions play an important role in the Always Running controversy. All the critics of the book who addressed the Santa Rosa Board of Education in July were white. Among the book’s most ardent defenders were several Latino youths. That’s no surprise to Rodriguez, who says he’s seen this pattern repeated in other communities across the nation. He chalks the division up to what he calls the country’s “highly polarized” racial climate. But for those white critics who go so far as to argue that a book about gangs has no possible relevance for children in their affluent suburban communities, the author offers a wake-up call.

“The fastest rise of gang membership in this country is among suburban white kids,” Rodriguez says. “Parents don’t realize how much some of this stuff is actually going on. The drugs, the meth, the heroin, some of the crack, it’s going on in these suburban communities. It’s a kind of denial, that they’re above all of this.”

Despite his hopes, Always Running did not achieve everything that Rodriguez had hoped for. The book helped for a time, but last year his son Ramiro was sentenced to prison for attempted murder. That fact was seized upon by activists in San Jose in an attempt to discredit Rodriguez, a tactic the author calls “ugly.”

“They said, ‘If he couldn’t help his own son, how can he help others?’ ” Rodriguez recalls. “But that’s just not the way it works in the real world. I’ve mentored a lot of kids out of the violence, kept them in school. The fact that my son is in prison doesn’t make him the worst person in the world either. He’s still a poet, he’s still a leader. He did leave the gang, by the way. He made a terrible mistake, and he will pay the consequences. But I don’t think he should be written off.”

As for the struggle over the book itself, Rodriguez expresses hope that eventually, through open and honest discussion, communities and school boards will come to terms with the controversial subject. He’s looking forward to a time when it’s no longer an issue.

“I actually hope that my book will lose its validity some day, that there isn’t a need for a book like Always Running,” Rodriguez says. “That we don’t have gangs, and kids killing each other, and drugs in the communities. I hope that some day it becomes obsolete. But right now that’s not the case. The book is very relevant, and as long that’s the case, then we should make sure that people can get access to it.”

From the February 4-10, 1999 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Talking Pictures

0

Curtain Call

By David Templeton

Writer David Templeton–driven by an impulse he has never properly explained–takes interesting people to interesting movies in an ongoing quest for the ultimate post-film conversation. Each discussion is taped, labeled and catalogued. When moved to do so, Templeton shares these tangential chit-chats with the public. This week, Templeton taps into Tape #189: a conversation with quirky Unknown Museum curator Mickey McGowan. after a screening of Playing By Heart.

Juggling an enormous cinnamon roll and a cup of hot coffee, I make my way to the table where Mickey McGowan has already set up camp, pouring his own cup of herbal tea from the weather-beaten thermos he carries everywhere he goes. Sitting down, I stir my coffee. He sips his tea. I push the little red button on my tape recorder.

“I was delighted, ” I quickly confess. “Almost shocked. Weren’t you?”

“Oh, sure! It was wonderful,” enthuses McGowan. “It gave me a warm thrill of nostalgia. It reminded me of going to the movies in the 1950s, when it was still a magical experience.”

He sips his tea. I tear off a piece of my roll.

Thus begins our ritual. We’ve been observing this same series of cozy elements–the café, the coffee, the tea, the conversation–since first we met six years ago, at the very same neon-and-chrome movie megaplex at which we rendezvoused today. What’s different this time, is that the film McGowan and I have just seen (the star-studded, relatively enjoyable Playing By Heart) is not what has inspired this spirited verbal exchange.

Instead, we are captivated by what took place just seconds before the film began, when the wide-open screen–featuring one slide-show advertisement after another–suddenly went dark and–as we sat watching in surprise–the curtains slid elegantly shut. After a short pause, the lights in the theater faded, the curtains ceremoniously opened again, and the coming attractions began.

“It was beautiful,” McGowan recalls. “Seeing a curtain open. It was nice to be reminded that once upon a time every movie began with that curtain rising up before us. It heightened our sense of anticipation. The curtain’s rising was always a very special moment.”

McGowan, an accomplished display artist, is the cultural commentator and curator of Marin County’s legendary Unknown Museum. An ever-evolving archive of pop-culture artifacts from the ’50s, ’60s, and ’70s, the museum earned itself an international cult-following before losing its home a decade ago. All the artifacts are now in storage, awaiting rebirth in a new location.

“Obviously, some theaters still use curtains,” I remark. “But most theaters use those pre-show advertisements interspersed with dumb trivia questions.”

McGowan nods, “The experience of going to the movies is completely different now. Remember being shown to your seat by an usher in a uniform? With a flashlight? You were treated like royalty. It was always grand and magical. Remember making projectiles out of folded popcorn boxes? You never wanted to sit down front because you’d always be whacked by something.

“That’s how it was at the Paradise and the Loyola in Westchester, Calif., where I grew up,” he recalls. “The Loyola was a gorgeous art-deco classic. It was wonderful–single screen, balcony, lush, gorgeous. I saw Psycho there. Love Me Tender. It Came From Outer Space.

“I visited my home town last week,” he continues. “I was doing the ‘roots’ thing, going back to see the house I grew up in, the school I went to, all of that. It’s the first time I’d been back in years. I went to find the Loyola. It’s been converted to professional offices. And the Paradise Theater is gone. Completely.

“At a moment like that, you feel three things at once,” he explains. “You get this rush of experience and nostalgia, mixed with a sense of dismay and an awareness of change, combined with a feeling of acceptance and a Zen attitude of ‘Life goes on.’

“Nothing lasts forever, you know,” he adds with a resigned chuckle.

As I slowly work towards the matrix of my cinnamon roll, McGowan–after a short tangent on the subject of drive-in movies–pours himself another cup of tea.

“On the other hand,” he murmurs, in a voice that suggests he’s about to offer an alternative viewpoint to his own, “perhaps the experience of going to the movies hasn’t changed as much as we’re saying. The basic experience is pretty much the same, isn’t it? You eventually get to a seat, you’re in a darkened room with a group of other people. It’s like going to church, but the worshippers all buy snacks in the lobby. The screen is still our altar.

“The movies are still sacred.

“In some ways, one could argue that going to the movies is even better today,” he adds, verging on a total about-face from his initial stance.

“How could anyone argue that?” I politely demand.

“Well, the screens are better today,” he points out. “The projectors are better, the sound systems–THX and Dolby and all the rest–are better. The seats are more comfortable than ever. Once the lights go down, the experience is possibly, possibly better than it was.

“And I suppose I’m glad they don’t throw flattened popcorn boxes anymore. There’d be lawsuits. Those popcorn boxes were lethal.”

The ritual is nearing an end.

The roll has been consumed. Our cups and thermoses are empty.

“Bottom line, though” McGowan thoughtfully concludes. “I think it was always the movies that made the magic, not the theaters. Even as a kid, once the lights went down, the movie itself was the final test, wasn’t it?”

“Well, I still miss the theaters,” I half-heartedly grumble.

“Oh, so do I,” McGowan nods. “But if you think about it, you’ll recall that it was the movies themselves that first made a believer out of you. The theaters were just the icing on the cake. I guarantee it.”

Web extra to the February 4-10, 1999 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Y2K Bug Preparedness

Time Balm

While the clock ticks, Y2K activists work to strengthen our communities

By David Templeton

BY THE TIME midnight arrives on Dec. 31 of this year, a mere 47 weeks or so from now, a lot of folks will be so tired of hearing the term “Y2K” that they’ll stay home with the blankets up over their heads, either to avoid any further mention of the Next Millennium or out of fear that, once the clock strikes 12, all hell will commence to break loose. The much-discussed Y2K Bug–that bothersome technical snafu that may or may not cause a hundred million computers to mistake the last two digits of the year 2000 for the last two digits of the year 1900–has raised serious concerns in all quadrants of society, with predictions of massive electrical blackouts that may last for weeks or months, and shortages of everything from water and food to available public services such as the police and fire departments.

While certain all-knowing, acronym-addicted extremists are calling it TEOTWAWKI (The End of the World As We Know It)–and others merely roll their eyes, shake their heads, and staunchly insist that nothing bad could possibly happen (nothing more apocalyptic than a few off-line ATMs at any rate)–there are still others who are carefully taking the middle road.

When asked what is likely to occur when the big 00 glides onto the digital calendars of the world’s all-important computer systems, these latter individuals will firmly reply, “We don’t know,” a reassuringly sensible response.

“It’s true,” states Shepherd Bliss, a north county organic farmer, author, and longtime social activist. “We don’t know what’s going to happen. So, many of us are following the slogan ‘Prepare for the worst, and hope for the best.’

“Beyond that,” he adds with an easygoing chuckle, “we really can’t make any predictions.”

While computer experts and engineers are racing the clock to fix the problem–rewriting the codes over and over to teach the machines to read four-digit dates–an incredibly motivated, spectacularly well-organized grassroots movement has shifted into its own high gear. Not knowing what’s to come, they are, as Bliss states, preparing for the worst.

This preparation includes following your basic disaster-readiness protocol: stockpiling canned and dehydrated foods, batteries, battery-operated lamps, blankets, sleeping bags, food, gasoline–and plenty of water, enough to allow each family member one gallon per day for however many days one anticipates we’ll be without public utilities. This could be a matter of hours or days or–as some especially cautious folk insist–the utilities might no longer function at all. Some of those who own their own property and don’t already have a well are investing in the cost of having one drilled.

But at the heart of the movement is the notion that, should a full-scale disaster occur–be it Y2K or and earthquake or other natural disaster–the best way to stay safe and well cared for is to make sure that the entire community is safe and well cared for. Stressing the positive side of a situation that might otherwise scare the wits out of everyone, these Y2K activists are working to create nothing less than a widespread sense of interdependent community.

“The advantage of prudent planning, which is the path I am taking, is that it builds community along the way,” says Bliss. “The two courses we must avoid are denial–that’s where most people are, and will be for a while–and fear. The logical alternative is prudent planning. It doesn’t matter if it’s Y2K or an earthquake or any other natural disaster. If we prepare ourselves, and build a sense of community, we’ll be ready for anything that happens.”

To that end, Y2K forums are being held across the nation with several already held in the county and more in the works. Support groups are being formed in neighborhoods, apartment complexes, city blocks, and rambling rows of farmhouses. Websites have sprung up listing preparations that can be made and giving information on how to pressure city and county officials to take the Y2K threat seriously. Everyone from the Red Cross to the Utne Reader has published a Y2K survival manual. Some neighborhoods have already started community gardens and have organized lists of all local residents, including the addresses of doctors and neighbors trained in CPR. While still building momentum, the response has been phenomenal.

People of all classes and income levels, all belief systems and political persuasions, have been filling the seats at the increasingly common Y2K forums.

A few weeks ago, the residents of Boulder, Colo., held their first public Y2K forum, and 700 people showed up. In Sonoma County, groups have been meeting for months. There are now monthly meetings in Sebastopol, Petaluma, Santa Rosa, Graton, and Forestville, with others being added all the time. The city of Santa Rosa, in part to quell rising public concerns, will be holding a Y2K forum on Feb. 18, at 7:30pm, at the Santa Rosa Veterans Building, where representatives of PG&E, Pacific Bell, Sonoma County safety agencies, and others will be answering questions.

The first countywide Y2K action day–in which participating families deliberately shut down all electricity, gas, and water in their homes for 26 hours of practice without them–was held last weekend. A number of community churches, most notably Grace Fellowship in Santa Rosa, have joined the Y2K effort, providing space for preparation meetings and information centers.

SPEAKING OF churches, though much noise has been made of the way certain fundamentalist church groups have embraced Y2K as proof of the impending apocalyptic end of the world–as foretold in the Bible’s frightening book of Revelations–members of Sonoma County’s Y2K community are quick to point out that no such Armageddonish gloom and doom have been introduced into the group’s safety-first ideology. In fact, there seems to be none of the pumped-up, clench-toothed brand of survivalism one might readily assume was at the core of such a movement.

“I’ve not met a survivalist or a doomsdayer since I got involved,” insists one active contributor to a local Y2K website. “These people all got plugged into Y2K as an opportunity to build more resilient communities and to create strong human connections we’ve lost over time.”

Echoing a guarded uncertainty that Y2K will turn out to be all that big a problem after all, the writer adds, “Nobody knows. So the most prudent thing is to prepare ourselves.”

Fred Beeler of Sebastopol has been preparing for months now. His online checklist of necessary Y2K provisions has become a much-prized, much-quoted mainstay of the Y2K community. He’s helped numerous neighborhood Y2K groups set up shop, and was handpicked to create Grace Fellowship’s Y2K Resource Center, where a Y2K hotline (526-1926) is maintained, training sessions take place, and all manner of handouts and literature are made available.

“People are really starting to band together,” says Beeler. “People are scared, so rather than sitting there like a deer in the headlights, we should be doing something positive, and doing it together.”

One of the more striking aspects of the local Y2K community’s efforts is the prevailing attitude of positivity that is being promoted as an alternative to fear. To hear some of these people speak, one would think they were looking forward to having the industrialized world come crashing down.

“I think Y2K is a blessing, a gift,” agrees Bliss. “It’s what some people have been praying for. We’ve been on a collision course with nature on this planet. There’s been such a violation of the earth, so if we lose the tools of that violation, we can rebuild along saner lines.”

Even so, its clear that a full-scale return to a no-industrial, agrarian society is viewed as merely the icing on the cake. The real appeal of Y2K is not what might happen then, but what is happening now.

“We are getting to know our neighbors again,” affirms Bliss. “We are banding together and learning from each other, sharing our strengths and preparing for the unseen. It’s what communities once did without question. What we are witnessing is the beginning of a movement, possibly the most significant social movement since the civil rights and women’s movements.

“I’ve never been more excited,” he admits. “I’m looking forward to the year ahead of us. I’ve lived through a lot, and seen a lot during my life, but 1999 is already turning out to be the most exciting year of my life.”

From the February 4-10, 1999 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Valentine’s Day Wines

0

In the Mood

Valentine’s Day tips on wine, women, and whatever

By Bob Johnson

IT’S TOO BAD Beavis and Butt-head were always ditching English class. Had they shown up once in a while, they may have come in contact with the poetry of William Butler Yeats, and Mr. Yeats’ rhythmical compositions could have helped them achieve their primary objective in life. His poetry could have helped them score.

To wit (or, since we’re dealing with Beavis and Butt-head, half-wit): “Wine comes in at the mouth/ And love comes in at the eye;/ That’s all we shall know for truth/ Before we grow old and die./ I lift the glass to my lips;/ I look at you and sigh.”

What woman wouldn’t swoon at such romantic words? We bring up the subject of romance because, husbands and boyfriends, Valentine’s Day is just a few sunsets away. By law, you are required to take your wife or girlfriend out for a romantic dinner to commemorate the occasion. (OK, it may not be a law, but it certainly is stridently enforced.)

Now, I do not profess to have the insights on personal relationships that Dr. Laura possesses, nor do I have access to a crystal ball. But it seems fairly obvious there are certain components that go a long way toward assuring a romantic repast:

Quiet. It’s hard to pitch woo in a place where one must yell the words, “YOU LOOK REALLY LOVELY TONIGHT!”

Low lights. Supermodels excepted, virtually everyone looks better in subdued lighting.

Romantic food. Entrées that are pretty on the plate. This is not the night for heavy, greasy dishes. It’s also best to stay away from hot and spicy preparations; taking a bite of food infused with hot chili pepper and breaking into a sweat does not leave a positive impression.

Quality service. You want to avoid the place where your next-door neighbor’s barely-old-enough-to-drive daughter is the star server: “Hi! My name is Tiffany and, like, I’ll be your waitress!” For this occasion, select a restaurant where the service is known to be professional and, most important, unobtrusive.

Wine. This is a no-brainer (especially considering this is a story about wine). Some say champagne is the ultimate romantic wine. I disagree. Valentine’s Day is the holiday of the heart, the heart is red, and so, too, should be the wine.

So skip the sparkling and white wines on the restaurant’s wine list and proceed immediately to the red section. Do not pass go; do not collect $200. Don’t worry; you don’t have to spend $200, either. A fine bottle of red wine can be secured at any number of local restaurants without paying an arm and a leg; one limb, perhaps, but not two. Even though most fine restaurants mark up the wines they offer two to three times over their suggested retail price, if you read the list from right to left you’ll stay within your budget and have enough moola left over for one dessert and two forks.

How does one go about selecting the right red wine for the Valentine’s evening culinary rendezvous? By sticking with the known–selecting bottlings that have a track record for quality.

If cabernet sauvignon is your preferred cup of vino, look for cabernets or cab blends from Silver Oak (be prepared to spend two limbs for this one), Simi, Arrowood, Alexander Valley, B.R. Cohn, Sonoma Creek, or Kunde. Shooting for a mellow mood? Opt for a bottle of merlot from St. Francis, Matanzas Creek, J. Fritz, Armida, Ferrari-Carano, or Benziger. Outstanding zinfandels–red, not white!–are made by Quivira, Ravenswood, Ridge, De Loach, Cline, Hartford Court, and Seghesio.

If your tastebuds have hopped on the syrah/shiraz bandwagon, seek out the renditions by Preston, Geyser Peak, Benziger, or Clos du Bois.

If you’re a pinot-phile (it’s not what you’re thinking; it simply means “one who likes pinot noir”), Schug, Roche, Sebastopol, Mueller, and Optima make all-star bottlings, the last finally coming into its own with the 1997 vintage. Cabernet, merlot, zinfandel, syrah/shiraz, and pinot noir compose the “big five” of Sonoma County reds, but you also can find some wonderful bottlings of less familiar varietals. Truly wine-savvy restaurateurs may offer cabernet franc by Gundlach-Bundschu or Ravenswood, or sangiovese by Rabbit Ridge or Seghesio.

All the aforementioned wines match well with a wide array of dishes, making them integral ingredients of a romantic dinner.

OK, gentlemen, you’ve been warned and informed. Pick up the phone and make that Feb. 14 reservation now. And when you get to the restaurant, order your bottle of red wine with confidence.

From the February 4-10, 1999 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Spins

0

Swan Songs

Pair of blues CDs from dear and departed

By Greg Cahill

IT AIN’T GRITS ‘n’ gravy, but the new blues CDs pouring into the stores this year portend a feast for diehard blues hounds. Last year certainly had its high points–notably great new albums from B. B. King, Duke Robillard, and Robert Jr. Lockwood. But you don’t get great blues without, well, a case of the blues. Which means the genre lost some of its heroes in the past year, particularly vocalists Charles Brown and Johnny Adams, and guitarists Jimmy Rogers and Junior Kimbrough.

At least they left us not only lasting legacies but strong swan songs.

Here are just a couple:

The Jimmy Rogers All-Stars Blues Blues Blues Atlantic

THIS WAS supposed to be Jimmy Rogers’ comeback album. Instead, it’s a tribute to the late Chicago musician, the last member of the original Muddy Waters Blues Band and the man who was responsible for developing the electric-blues guitar style emulated by many of the rock era’s best axeslingers. This recording project–featuring Eric Clapton, Mick Jagger and Keith Richards, Taj Mahal, Jimmy Page and Robert Plant, and Lowell Fulson, among others–began several months before Rogers died. He spoke excitedly about it in an Independent interview shortly before his appearance at the Mystic Theater just eight weeks before his death at age 74.

There are many bright spots–most notably, pianist Johnny Johnson (the former Chuck Berry sideman), who provides the cohesion to these far-flung sessions. Then there’s Rogers himself. His vocals are strong, and his picking is clean and unpretentious. And while he never quite slips into one of the primitive-sounding trance grooves that he often evoked, he remained one of the genre’s most unappreciated contributors. If there is any complaint, it is that the sessions suffer from too many jaunty, barroom jams, such as the cover of “Sweet Home Chicago” with guest Stephen Stills.

Unfortunately, Rogers often is forced to fit into a generic mold that suits his blues-rock guests without reinforcing his own trademark sound–a problem that has plagued similar all-star blues projects in the past. Buy it for kicks, but if you really want to sink your teeth into this guitar great’s work, search out last year’s MCA/Chess Jimmy Rogers two-CD retrospective.

Junior Kimbrough God Knows I Tried Fat Possum

R. L. Burnside Come on In Fat Possum

JUNIOR KIMBROUGH put the danger back into a genre that had been co-opted by funk-oriented wannabes and slick beer commercials. Hailing from northeast Mississippi, Kimbrough–who died last year at age 67–didn’t record until 1992. New York Times blues writer Robert Palmer brought him to the public’s attention in his book Deep Blues. That work later was transformed into a rootsy documentary of the same name by filmmaker Robert Mugge, who included scenes of Kimbrough in his backwoods juke joint. Such rock bands as the Rolling Stones, U2, Sonic Youth, and the Jon Spencer Blues Explosion made pilgrimages to the club to savor Kimbrough’s raggedy, trancelike songs, which abandoned the traditional blues progressions in favor of rough-hewn riffs and rambling melodies. God Knows I Tried is Kimbrough at his unassuming best. Grab a stiff drink and bundle of heartache and pull up a chair.

Meanwhile, labelmate R. L. Burnside, alive and kicking, who recorded 1996’s A Ass Pocket of Whiskey with Jon Spencer–gets the royal treatment on Come on In from big-time engineer Tom Rothrock, who remixes Burnside’s simple Delta blues for trendy urban beat boys and beat girls. Sort of like Burnside’s low-rent Zootopia tour from the trailer park to your house.

For the most part, Burnside’s stinging slide work rises to the top, and one can’t help but get the feeling that he’s pretty amused by all this attention. With Gen X already firmly embracing the blues, projects like this one can only help firm up the genre’s future.

Let it ride, baby.

From the February 4-10, 1999 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Maceo Parker

0

Funk Felt Deep



Saxophonist Maceo Parker delivers a ‘Funk Overload’

By Greg Cahill

ASK MACEO PARKER to characterize his musical style and the celebrated saxophonist gets reflective. “Funky–lots of syncopated chops, stabs, stops, and jerks,” he explains, during a phone interview from his hometown of Kingston, N.C. “Sometimes I try to stop and start where people least expect it. It’s almost like a running back trying to dodge guys trying to stop him from gaining yards. You know, how a running back does the shake ‘n’ bake–dodging left and right?

“It’s the same kind of thing.”

For three decades, James Brown, the Godfather of Soul, beckoned Parker to “blow, Maceo, blow.” And Parker, now 55, responded with in-the-pocket tenor and baritone sax solos that helped signify such classic James Brown tracks as “Papa’s Got a Brand-New Bag” and “Cold Sweat.” If just for his soulful work with Brown, Rolling Stone once opined, Parker’s place in history would be secure. But in 1990, Parker launched a solo recording career with the organ-soaked jazz and soul standards on All the King’s Men (4th & Broadway), followed by a pair of acclaimed instrumental jazz CDs, 1990’s Roots: Revisited and 1991’s Mo’ Roots, both on the Verve label and both hitting the top of the jazz charts. Those hits rekindled his career and made him a highly sought-after session player who contributed to tracks by Deee-Lite, Living Colour, Jane’s Addiction, De La Soul, and others.

Six months ago, he released Funk Overload (WAR), his first solo recording in two years and a tribute to ’60s and ’70s soul legends (Brown isn’t among them). The dead-heavy funk CD is a marked departure from his earlier jazz recordings. “I wanted to do something a little different,” he explains, noting that the new project provided a chance to record with his rapper son, Corey, who contributes several vocals.

“It’s another source of energy and gives me a bit more longevity to have my son with me,” he adds. “It feels good.”

Fresh from a Midwest run with the Dave Matthews Band and an appearance on Late Night with David Letterman, Parker performs Feb. 13 at the Phoenix Theatre in Petaluma.

PARKER’S PERFORMING career started in elementary school when he formed the Junior Blue Notes. “I’ve pretty much been Maceo since I was born,” he says with a laugh. “It came easily for me–it was something I could do in my sleep–and once I recognized that I could do what I do, I just decided to stay with it.”

But his serious flirtation with fame began at age 21, when in 1964 he and his drummer brother Melvin joined the James Brown band, then on the verge of becoming an R&B hit machine.

It was a heady experience.

“It was really something to start out working on something of that magnitude,” Parker enthuses, ” traveling not only all over this country but also Europe, Asia, and Africa.

“It was top of the line–you couldn’t get no higher.”

The move started Parker’s longtime association with saxophonist Pee Wee Ellis (who later joined the Van Morrison band) and his lifelong friendship with trombonist Fred Wesley, who still records with Parker. But after a string of chart-topping successes, Brown’s celebrated band mutinied over professional differences. Parker moved on.

It was the beginning of Parker’s on-again, off-again relationship with the band leader.

In response, Brown formed the J.B.’s, a hot collection of young bloods that included bassist William “Bootsy” Collins and his guitarist brother Phelps “Catfish” Collins. The Collinses left a year later to join funkmeister George Clinton’s psychedelicized funk outfit Parliamentfunkadelic. Parker would join them three years later, but not before switching to alto sax and contributing to such legendary James Brown funk hits as 1972’s “Get on the Good Foot” and 1974’s “The Payback” and “Pap Don’t Take No Mess.”

For the next 20 years, Parker freelanced with Clinton’s P-Funk and Bootsy’s Rubber Band, while periodically reuniting with Brown.

Despite the turbulent times he spent with Brown, Parker expresses no ill feelings toward the legendary soulman. “We recognized what we had together, but along with that comes the recognition that you just can’t stay together 100 percent of the time and there’s a point where you just have to go out and do your own thing,” he concludes. “We are comfortable with that. If something arises where we can do some more projects together, that would be fine, but we’re very comfortable with how we’re doin’.

“But James Brown has his own style. And I have my own style, though I certainly learned from him. Still, I like to keep it hip and keep it funky.”

Maceo Parker performs Saturday, Feb. 13, at 9pm at the Phoenix Theatre, 201 Washington St., Petaluma. Tickets are $15. For info, call 762-3565.

From the February 4-10, 1999 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Talking Pictures

0

Stepping Up

Blended family values: Julia Roberts and Jena Malone get cozy in Stepmom.

Family therapist says ‘Stepmom’ delivers us from stereotypes

By David Templeton

David Templeton takes interesting people to interesting movies in his ongoing quest for the ultimate post-film conversation. This time out, he schedules a session with therapist Felicia Matto-Shepard, a Petaluma-based expert on blended families and stepparenting issues, to see the new comedy/drama Stepmom.

STEPMOTHERS haven’t fared too well on the big screen recently. In 1998, if a stepmom was depicted at all, she was either a nasty, two-faced manipulative Barbie doll–as in Disney’s remake of The Parent Trap–or else she was the classic Brothers Grimm-style monster as in Drew Barrymore’s Ever After: A Cinderella Story, in which Angelica Huston played the part of the unrepentantly wicked stepmother. As a happy ending, she is publicly humiliated and forced into a life of miserable servitude. That’ll teach her.

In the midst of all this stepmother bashing, along comes Stepmom. Starring Susan Sarandon as a divorced mother with two young children, and Julia Roberts as their father’s new fiancée, Stepmom is a flip-flop of the conventional step-story: This time the stepmom is the goodhearted heroine, and the real mom is the sneering, snarling heavy. At least she is until the film’s ending when both characters attain a kind of teary-eyed sainthood. At any rate, to therapist Felicia Matto-Shepard, the appearance of a film like Stepmom is a welcome step in a positive direction.

“I knew right away that I would be seeing this movie,” she says. “I knew a lot of my clients would be talking about it.”

A respected family therapist with an office in Petaluma, Matto-Shepard, herself a stepmother, can claim a certain amount of personal and professional expertise in the area of blended families–and of stepmothering issues in particular. For several years she’s been moderating a stepmom support group with a whimsically apt title: “Wicked No More.” In the course of her work, she’s heard hundreds of horror stories–and a good number of success stories as well–as parents and children struggle to adapt to stepfamily life.

“Forming a successful stepfamily,” Matto-Shepard says with authority, “is always harder than anyone expects it will be. And making things worse is the fact that stepmoms don’t have many obvious role models, and there are no positive pop-culture icons from which to learn.”

So does Stepmom fill the gap? Yes. Sort of. Though overbearingly sentimental and frequently preposterous, Stepmom is successful, Matto-Shepard insists, because buried beneath its slick, sitcom-style facade is a treasure trove of painfully accurate observations. Furthermore, it comes up with a surprisingly optimistic vision of how a blended family can, with effort, regroup to form a healthy, harmonious household.

“It is realistic that these kind of relationships can start out shaky, and mean things can be said between people–and then years later it can be healed,” Matto-Shepard explains to me over tea, immediately after seeing the film. “What was unrealistic was that it only took about three months. Typically, it takes a stepfamily about five years to settle into their roles. By the time you’ve reached five years, everybody pretty much knows who they are and where they fit into the family dynamic.”

IN AN EARLY SCENE, Sarandon goes horseback riding with the kids, and after ridiculing Roberts incessantly–almost begging for the children to join in–she is shocked when her little boy states, “I’ll hate her if you want me to, Mom.”

“How could she be so amazed?” I ask. “After all of her jibes, I think she would have patted him on the back and said, ‘That’s my boy!’ “

“I don’t know that I agree,” Matto-Shepard replies. “When parents are divorced there’s a lot of emotion involved. You lose a lot of your reasoning sense, and you say and do a lot of mean things. And sometimes your kids are like mirrors, reflecting those words and actions right back to you. When he said, ‘I’ll hate her if you want me to,’ she realized for a moment what she was doing, and she was sorry. That’s realistic.

“On the other hand, a little 7-year-old kid is not likely to say that ‘I’ll hate her if you want me to’ to his Mom,” the therapist says. “But he’s likely to feel it. He’ll get the message. ‘Mom doesn’t like her, so if I like stepmom, I’ll be betraying Mom, therefore I’d better protect Mom by hating stepmom.’

“Another thing the film got right was the way Julia Roberts just dives right in there with the kids, taking on too much responsibility too soon. That’s a mistake that a lot of stepmothers make. … It is wise for a new stepmom to be very careful in her entry into the family,” she notes. “You have to develop a relationship with the child first–a connection on some basic human level–before you can take on any real authority.

“The best way a stepparent and a stepchild are most likely to build a relationship with each other is by having lots of little moments together,” Matto-Shepard says. “Like when Roberts offers to show the girl how to paint a tree, or when they’re in the car and Roberts lets her use her lipstick. Bonds are made from little things, like saying, ‘I’m running to the store. Do you want to go with me?’ And then you have a 10-minute chat on the way to the store. That’s how you develop a relationship with your kids.

“The best thing about Stepmom,” Matto-Shepard concludes, “is that it shows–even if not very realistically–that a stepfamily can work. At the very end, Susan Sarandon says, ‘There’s a place for each of us.’ I love that. I believe that’s really true. If kids have four parents, they find a way to have four parents. It works for them. Eventually, everyone finds a way to fit together. Speaking from personal and professional experience, I can say that stepfamilies really can work. They can work incredibly well.”

From the January 28-February 3, 1999 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Abandoned Mercury Mines

0

Mercury Rising

Michael Amsler



Abandoned mercury mines leave toxic legacy in North Bay

By Janet Wells

MERCURY–with a mythological cachet of fleet-footed skill, and synonyms like “quicksilver” and “cinnabar” gracing the names of local restaurants, schools, and theaters–is part of Northern California’s heritage. The sinister era of mercury may be over–people no longer regularly go insane from working with highly toxic mercury liquid or strip-mine the coastal hills for mercury ore.

Yet, few people even know about the old mercury mines hidden in the hills of Sonoma and Marin counties, the processing buildings and sheds abandoned to rust, dilapidation, and weeds.

But mercury waste, hundreds of thousands of cubic yards of tailings thrown into the deep gullies and ravines, is very much part of the present, flowing into streams and showing up in fish and wildlife at alarmingly high levels. An intensive $3 million cleanup effort is nearing completion in northern Marin County, where, in a steep canyon, 200,000 cubic yards of mining waste containing 590,832 pounds of mercury have been eroding into Gambonini Ranch Creek, which drains into Walker Creek and, about 10 miles downstream, Tomales Bay.

While commercial Tomales Bay oysters–grown on racks or in bags above the sediment where mercury settles–are well within safe limits, research on native shellfish, along with other fish and birds, tells a different story. The Gambonini Ranch mine site “poses a significant threat to the beneficial uses of Walker Creek and Tomales Bay,” according to a new report by the San Francisco Regional Water Quality Control Board. The report also warns of a “potential threat to humans and wildlife.”

Says Tom Baty, an Inverness resident who has been fishing Tomales Bay for 40 years, “The possibility that there is mercury bio-accumulation that people are eating is of great concern. It’s a tricky question to be asking oneself, but if there’s a problem with the local fish, it’s better that we all know.”

Farther north, at the headwaters of the Eel River, a source of water to the Russian River, officials from the North Coast Regional Water Quality Control Board have found elevated levels of mercury in freshwater bass. The probable cause, according to senior engineer Bob Tancreto, is underneath Lake Pillsbury, where a town with a mercury mine was abandoned and buried in the early 1900s when the Cape Horn and other dams were built to create the reservoir.

In Sonoma County, a mercury mine similar to the Gambonini site’s ore extraction and processing, caused consternation more than 15 years ago. Construction of the Guerneville sewage plant used mercury-laden tailings in soil and gravel from an abandoned mine at Mt. Jackson for road base material. After extensive tests, county health officials found nothing alarming about the inert reddish dirt, and Tancreto says that waste from the Mt. Jackson mine–which likely is washing down into Fife Creek and on to the Russian River–“is not an issue.”

“If you take a sample of soils anywhere in this county, you will find mercury in it, but in the form of oxide, so it’s not a dangerous element,” he says.

However, testing of creeks and wells in the Mt. Jackson mine area was last done 15 or 20 years ago. “Whether it deserves another look is a good question,” Tancreto concedes.

MERCURY CAN BE a nasty substance. Liquid mercury, which can be absorbed through the skin, leads to insanity and death, as in the “Mad Hatters” who used the chemical to form felt for hats. The ore form of mercury mined in California was processed using high-temperature ovens. The waste from ore processing becomes a threat to humans when it stews in an anaerobic environment like water and transforms into an organic substance that “bio-accumulates,” coming up through the food chain and causing long-term health problems, especially in pregnant and nursing women and young children.

Mercury, along with dioxins, pesticides, and PCBs, is a known health issue in San Francisco Bay, where fish advisories are posted, warning what kind and how much fish is safe for consumption. In contrast, Tomales Bay, the long thin estuary nestled among coastal rolling hills just south of the county line and feeding into Bodega Bay, is considered a clean-water haven.

“It’s a big issue, because the bay is so clean, relatively speaking,” Baty says of Tomales. “No one thinks about any problems here.”

But maybe they should. Last year, a study on heavy metals accumulating in Suisun Bay ducks from agricultural runoff was published in a national science journal. Tomales Bay ducks were to be the “clean” control group for that study until scientists found that the Tomales birds had twice as much mercury as those in the Delta–levels high enough that “over winter survival and reproductive successes are at risk,” according to the water board report.

“That was an eye opener for us,” says Dyan Whyte, associate engineering geologist for the San Francisco Regional Water Quality Control Board and head of the Gambonini site cleanup. “From a statewide perspective, it is a relatively small mine, but when we looked at the amount of mercury [washing down from the site], it was a very high amount and going into a very pristine water body.”

Whyte spent two winters slogging out to the remote Gambonini mine site, often in the middle of the night, to gather data on how much mercury was traveling from the waste pile into the water system. “We found that discharge was very tied in to storm events,” she says. “If I’d gone in the summer or even once a week, I might not have found anything. It’s a very different picture if you go out when it’s raining. Eighty percent of the mercury left within 20 percent of the time.”

The big El Niño storms last year and in the early ’80s only made the downstream contamination worse. In 1982, a dam made of mine tailings failed, inundating the creek below with mercury waste. Last January and February, the mine site released an “alarming” 170 pounds of mercury to downstream waters, according to Whyte’s report, about one third of the amount that the entire Central Valley releases to the San Francisco Bay in a year.


CSAA

Poison path: Mercury is washing out of the Gambonini Ranch mine site into Walker Creek and then flowing west into Tomales Bay near the county line.

LEGALLY, environmental hazards are the responsibility of the property owners or the polluter. In the Gambonini mine case, the property owners don’t have funds for cleanup, and the mining company that leased the property is long gone.

Property owner Alvin Gambonini, who suffered a stroke in 1997 and has difficulties speaking, grew up on the 1,400-acre cattle-grazing-ranch. Gambonini, 76, and his 64-year-old wife, Doris, lease most of the property to cattle grazers, keeping enough land for their 26 cattle, seven sheep, and a ramshackle ranch compound, with sheds, pens, bales of wire, and even a cast-iron clawfoot bathtub out front.

The mine site, leased to the Buttes Gas & Oil Co. by Gambonini’s parents, is across Wilson Hill Road from the ranch house six miles southwest of Petaluma, and up a steep ridge. The Gamboninis used the site’s deep canyons as a dumping ground for old cars and tires.

“We didn’t know too much about it,” Doris Gambonini says of the mine. “We felt like there wasn’t any problem at all.”

Buttes Gas & Oil operated the mine at Gambonini Ranch from 1964 to 1970, when the price of mercury plummeted and all but killed the ore-mining industry. In 1985, Buttes Gas & Oil filed for bankruptcy, and in a federal bankruptcy court settlement the state agreed to release the company from liability in exchange for $128,000 to be used toward remediation of the site. Cleanup of a 15-acre unstable pile of mine waste had a significantly higher price tag than the amount wrested from the bankruptcy court, and the state didn’t want to take on the cost or the responsibility, since, legally, whoever cleans up a site is then liable for it.

Eventually geologist Whyte, armed with findings showing levels of mercury high enough to qualify as an emergency, secured $2.5 million in federal funding through the Environmental Protection Agency. The state is kicking in about $500,000 for non-remedial portions of the project, thereby avoiding future liability.

The six-month cleanup removed the enormous tailings pile, replaced it with about 400,000 cubic yards of dirt, and built creekbeds 30 feet higher than the original gullies and filled them with 201,000 tons of rock to stabilize the slope. The hillside now looks almost manicured, terraced with drainage culverts and sausage-shaped straw “wattles.” A nursery in Napa is growing 5,000 plants from seeds collected from the surrounding hillsides to plant on the new slope. About 100 willow cuttings were pounded into the center of the slope, where they will sprout into trees that soak up water from the slump-prone area.

“It’s not for aesthetics, but for long-term stability,” Whyte says of the plantings. “The goal of the project is to eliminate the release of any sediments from the site.”

The land is, for all intents and purposes, permanent open space, since the state will not allow anyone to use or live on the contaminated property. The site will be fenced off, and warning signs posted.

While the Gambonini mine cleanup effort will go a long way toward cutting off the mercury flow at the source, the amount of mercury still in the ecosystem is unclear. “It will become less available if it is covered up with clean sediment or washes out to the ocean,” Whyte says. “But how long it is going to take for it to flush through the system, we don’t know. There still is mercury coming through the Delta into San Francisco Bay that is associated in part with mercury used during the Gold Rush.”

In August, the state began studying fish in Tomales Bay to determine mercury levels, which at least preliminarily are highest in shark. A sizable Hispanic population has discovered shark fishing in Tomales, both for recreation and as a source of protein, says Baty, who has been helping the state with its research by providing samples of leopard shark, halibut, jack smelt, and other native fish.

“If the sharks they are consuming are a large proportion of their protein, there conceivably could be major health consequences,” says Baty, who is concerned that the amount of the sport fishing–and therefore the amount of mercury consumed–may be underestimated in Tomales Bay.

“Fish and Game has no idea of how big it is here, how many people have been fishing, how many fish are landed or where they are going. There’s no way of monitoring it,” he says. “They should know so they can manage it.”

The state’s findings on Tomales Bay fish will go to the state Office of Environmental Health Hazard Assessment, which issues health advisories through the media and works with county health departments to post warning signs or distribute flyers.

FOR SEVERAL YEARS, Tomales Bay oyster growers have endured mandatory closure of harvesting owing to septic and sewage flow into the bay during heavy rains. There are currently no warnings or advisories about mercury poisoning in the bay.

Drew Alden, owner of Tomales Bay Oysters, which cultivates about 200,000 oysters each year for sale at a local retail outlet, talked with Whyte about the Gambonini mine several months ago, and is confident that his shellfish are safe. But even if the levels of mercury are low in commercial shellfish, any allegations about environmental problems in the bay can be tough to combat, he says.

“People look at that and say, ‘I don’t want to eat those oysters, they have mercury in them,’ ” he says. “But I’m an advocate of educating the public. Mercury is a naturally occurring mineral. If there were no mercury mine up there, we would still have mercury. The question is, How much mercury is there to cause alarm?

“If there’s enough, people should be aware of it.”

From the January 28-February 3, 1999 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Sonoma County Road Food

0

Road Food

By Marina Wolf

ONE USUALLY EATS in a fancy restaurant for one of several reasons: to celebrate the raise, to impress the parents, to warm up the sweetie for a little woo. But where to go when there’s no reason, no one to impress or seduce, when all that’s needed is comfort, convenience, or just good solid chow?

To the workhorses of the restaurant world, that’s where: the cafes, diners, BBQ pits, pizza shacks, taquerias. … By any name, in any part of the country, there’s good cheap food to be had in the most unassuming places. Jane and Michael Stern coined the term “road food” over 20 years ago to describe this everyday grub, which they “discovered” while crisscrossing the country talking to truck drivers. At the time, food trends were heading toward either haute or health cuisine, so the Sterns’ excitement over such all-American fare was understandable.

Road food has as much to offer the casual diner now as it did then. A road-food establishment is convenient in a very unobtrusive way: no neon signs, no flashy commercials, just a plain building that’s at exactly the right place between point A and point B, where A equals home and B equals the beach, church, work, or any place other than A. Road food is cheap, is simply flavored (which means you don’t have to concentrate to “get it”), and affords a blessed loosening of aesthetic, behavioral, or nutritional constraints. Here you can lick your fingers, use a roll to wipe your plate–if there even is a plate–and ask for a triple helping. They won’t even look at you sideways.

To this day the Sterns remain unparalleled reporters on road food. Their enthusiastic bulletins from around the United States can be seen at the Epicurious web site and, of all places, in Gourmet. But strangely, in all their travels, the Sterns have spent no ink at all on Sonoma County. I’d like to rectify that situation with my own arbitrary guide to some of the off-to-the-side eateries of the county. I won’t even pretend to be comprehensive–these are just personal favorites and tips from friends.

If you know a local joint that serves up outstanding road food–that is, good food and a comfortable atmosphere costs $30 or less for two people, including tip–drop me a line, ‘cuz I want to know.

Ingram’s Chili Bowl
THE DISPLAY CASE on the south wall tells it all: two menus, one from the restaurant’s first year of Santa Rosa operations in 1951 and one from today. The scary thing–the wonderful thing–is that, other than the prices, nothing has changed. The third generation of Ingrams has been dishing out the same platter of killer chili all these years. The thin, rusty sauce with tender chips of beef is made in the back every day, and then left to simmer while awaiting the call to cover foods that normally stand alone, but are better for the union: open-faced cheeseburgers, spaghetti, enchiladas, ham. The chili spreads out over the oval plate, lapping at the edges of a hot pile of hash browns. Breakfast is done here, too, but it’s hard to concentrate on the four food groups when the one that matters–chili–is available all day long, sending aromatic clouds over the assortment of old-timers, youngish businessmen on their lunch breaks, and wide-eyed food writers. Even though a pull at the slot machine near the door didn’t win me a free dinner, or even a second pull, I still felt lucky. Ingram’s Chili Bowl, 3925 Old Redwood Hwy., Santa Rosa. No phone (the fax number on the menu is a joke). Hours: Mondays-Fridays, 6 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Saturdays, 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Sundays, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Pack Jack Bar-B-Que Inn
THIS ROADSIDE SHACK, gussied up on the inside with Old West memorabilia and a deer’s head, sits just a little south of Sebastopol on Highway 116. You might drive past a couple of times before you see it, but do keep looking. Independent readers give Pack Jack’s a Best Of award year after year, so our readers, at least, are in the loop. But if you’re picking up the paper for the first time, here’s the dirt: Pack Jack’s digs down to the deep, greasy roots of barbecue and brings up a winner. The menu offers six or seven kinds of roast beast, all slow cooked in a smoky oven for a perfect crust that lies beneath a generous slathering of Bonnie and Marie Harris’ homemade sauce (hot, sweet, mild, or mix-’em-up). A half-size dinner is aplenty, while a regular dinner–one meat, two side dishes–is perfect, and the two-meat plate is just this side of over the top. Leave room for the beans: they’re sweet but not candied, with plenty of spice. Pack Jack Bar-B-Q Inn, 3963 Gravenstein Hwy. S., Sebastopol. 823-9929. Hours: Tuesdays-Thursdays, 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.; Fridays-Sundays, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Michael Amsler



Zoya’s Truck Stop Cafe
THE ONLY EXIT leading from Highway 101 to Zoya’s Cafe in Petaluma–a favorite hangout for performance artist and musician Tom Waits–is on the northbound side. We non-truckers have to wend our way around the dark curve of Petaluma Boulevard South before we can crunch into the gravel parking lot to a place amid the behemoth trucks. Once at your table, with its wallside phone and rubbed-pale Formica top, head straight for the back page of the menu, where you’ll find a few simple lines describing the Russian specialties of the house. The cafe’s namesake came to Sonoma County the long way, via China, in the late ’40s, and clearly her culinary heritage survived the journey. This is road food po-russky: Beet-red borshcht, chunky with beef and veggies, makes a meal in itself with some buttered bread, as do the pel’meni–handmade meat dumplings piled into a deep bowl of clear broth. My Russian-American girlfriend shares the secret of garnishing pel’meni: a splash or two of soy sauce and a dollop of sour cream stirred in for cream-of-pel’meni satisfaction. Ask for some frozen to heat up at home! Zoya’s Truck Stop Cafe, 2645 Petaluma Blvd. S., Petaluma. 762-2233. Hours: Daily, 5 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Willow Wood Market Cafe
THE WILLOW WOOD Market Cafe was part of the first wave of gastronomic gentrification to hit the west county hamlet of Graton a few years back. Now it is a downtown fixture, with its cozy tables accommodating a steady stream of townsfolk who want a bit of chat and a good cuppa joe. Owner Sally Spittles keeps the market stocked with a bemusing mix of British condiments and foodstuffs, gourmet SoCo items, and a few staples like beer and bread. Spittles also provides local artists and writers with ample wall space and a back area for readings once a month. Here you’ll find food for the body as well as the soul. The famous polenta is a sturdy, flavorful porridge that is equal to any stew you care to lay on it (they’re all good choices). And the sandwiches are slightly adventurous without being strange (try the hot ham and brie sandwich, with toasted rustic bread that lets the melty cheese seep through its holes).

Wash down your meal with a bottle of old-fashioned soda like key lime or strawberry. Take your time. Drink it slow. Willow Wood Market Cafe, 9020 Graton Road, Graton. 823-0233. Hours: Mondays-Thursdays, 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Fridays-Saturdays, 8 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Closed Sundays.

Betty’s English Fish & Chips
IF YOU HAVE to fiddle with a knife and fork, you are approaching the line between simple and not-so-simple good food. Betty’s Fish & Chips, a plain white storefront on Highway 12 on the eastern edge of Santa Rosa, falls firmly into the simple corner. Though you do get silverware with your hotly glistening platter of fish and fries, no one expects you to actually use it, except maybe on a heavier piece of the tender Icelandic cod that’d flake in half if you tried to dip it wholesale into the tartar sauce. Otherwise use your fingers–Miss Manners be damned. The kids over in the corner are doing it, and who knows better than kids how to enjoy food? The decor is functional British, with a few touristy wall hangings, but the restaurant wisely puts most of its energy into the food. A nice cap to the meal is a mini-pie, made every day on the premises. First time in? Try the lemon cloud pie, a mini-pie shell that holds a thick, rich, well-balanced curd under real whipped cream. Next time you can try the others. Betty’s English Fish & Chips, 4046 Sonoma Hwy., Santa Rosa. 539-0899. Hours: Tuesdays-Thursdays, 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Fridays-Saturdays, 11:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.; Sundays, 12:30 to 6 p.m. Closed Mondays.


Michael Amsler

Homestyle: Betty Carr of Mom’s Apple Pie knows comfort food.

Pine Cone Restaurant
THIS MAIN STREET cafe in Sebastopol is never totally busy, which makes it a nice retreat from the modern, totally zapped java joints that occasionally–I’ll admit it–are a little too much. It’s always shady in here, and quiet. The soda counter serves straight-up, no-nonsense ice cream treats made from Clo’s ice cream, and the rest of the menu is equally plain and simple: eggy breakfasts with knock-out pancakes, sandwiches on white bread, burgers and hot fries. The counter attracts a certain category of older men–you know, the ones who are always trying to snag somebody else’s newspaper to go with their coffee. But then there’s the nice young man who pipes up with information about Leftover Salmon concert dates at just the right moment. The waitress teases both regulars and first-timers as if she’s on good terms with everybody’s parents. The high-backed booths sink under your weight as though they’ve been expecting you. This is a very good thing. Pine Cone Restaurant, 162 N. Main St., Sebastopol. 823-1375. Hours: Daily, 7 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Mom’s Apple Pie
ANY ESTABLISHMENT that names itself not only after a specific dish, but gives you the name of the person nominally responsible for that dish, is worth checking out as a road food possibility. Odds are that the people thereabouts will display a fervent loyalty to the cause. Betty Carr, the mom in Mom’s, has been inspiring that loyalty at the same location on Highway 116 just south of Forestville for about 15 years now. The menu, composed in white plastic letters on a black velvet-covered board, advertises sandwiches, burgers, fried chicken. But the real draw is the pie, one slice at a time or whole pies to go, made from the same recipe Carr learned in a home-ec class over 30 years ago: good tart apples (Gravenstein in season), not too much sugar, and a flaky crust that is never soggy, unless your ice cream melts on it. If you’re not an apple person, try the rhubarb pie, a tart piece of divinity that isn’t trying to hide its origins. Then pull up a chair in the side gallery and watch the traffic go by. Mom’s Apple Pie, 4550 Gravenstein Hwy. N., Sebastopol. 823-8330. Hours: Daily, 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Rob’s Rib Shack
SOME ROAD-FOOD establishments break the mold by not actually being on the way to anywhere, but by being destinations in their own right. Not in an “But, darling, you must eat here at least once before you leave for Paris” sense, but in a “Hey, I feel like some really good barbecue tonight” sense. Rob’s Rib Shack in Sonoma falls into both of those categories. The brick ovens in France can’t hold a candle to the magical one here: pieces of chicken, beef, and pork get shoved in there and emerge all charred on the outside, tender on the inside. Ah, forget the clichés and just shove your teeth into all the little spaces between the bones. And don’t worry about getting barbecue sauce on your face. First of all, you will. Second of all, even with the extra illumination afforded by strands of pig lights hanging from the low-slung ceiling, the Rib Shack is dark enough that no one will notice. A few yuppie touches here and there, in the achiote catfish sandwich or the Santa Fe smoked-chicken salad, but nothing to get alarmed about. From the outdoor eating area to the slow-burn killer fries, here’s a place that hard-core hogs can call home. Rob’s Rib Shack, 18708 Arnold Drive, Sonoma. 938-8520. Hours: Daily, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Owl Cafe
IN CLOVERDALE, the land that time and the freeway forgot, where night falls hard and the traffic is driving a lot faster down the main drag since the overpass went up and no one really needs to stop anymore … Well, traffic patterns may shift, but some things never change. The Owl Cafe, a motorist landmark since the ’40s, is still serving the same rib-sticking food–fish and chips, prime rib and potatoes … You get the picture–these are protein-and-carb combos that can keep truckers and college students fueled on the long haul to Arcata, at least. Do ask about the specials, and do get some pie; it’s not made on the premises, but it’s got a decent crust, and the friendly waitresses–there aren’t a lot of male servers in the heartland–will put a lot of ice cream on top if you ask. We came late in the evening and got very attentive service, and even got an eavesdropping earful about a waitress’ ex-husband. Seems he’s taken up with a much younger woman in Texas and … Owl Cafe, 485 S. Cloverdale Blvd., Cloverdale. 894-8967. Hours: Sundays-Thursdays, 7 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. (“8 if we slow down”); Fridays-Saturdays, 7 a.m. to 9 or 9:30 p.m.

The Crab Pot
I GOT BIT by a shark recently. It was after I had bought two cracked and cleaned fresh crabs in the packed little cottage on Highway 1 called the Crab Pot. Outdoors a party of people were busy taking snapshots of their seafood feast at the lone picnic tables, right behind the ramshackle smokehouse. Inside a man spoke in impatient Spanish to two big-eyed children and then ordered several cups of clam chowder, so thick that the spoons stood up in it. I checked out the clean-smelling shellfish and smoked fish that were sharing quarters in the cramped refrigerator case, then asked for an eighth of a pound of shark jerky instead of the half-pound that was listed on the board. In response, the poker-faced woman behind the counter handed me a harmless-looking shred. “You can try it first,” she said. One nibble at the thumbnail-sized piece ripped my face clean off. “Do you make this here?” I asked, my eyes watering at the cracked pepper that thickly coated the shark flesh. “Yup,” she said stoically, toting up the rest of my order on a thickly scribbled piece of paper. “Well, I only have enough money for the crabs and bread, but thanks,” I said, and fled. That was a lie. I had enough money for a bag of saltwater taffy. It took two or three pieces to soothe the flames in my mouth, the revenge of that old shark. The Crab Pot, 1750 Hwy. 1, Bodega Bay. 875-9970. Hours: Daily, 9 a.m. to 5 or 5:30 p.m.

From the January 28-February 3, 1999 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Talking Pictures

Passion Play Close encounter: Emily Watson and James Frain star in Hilary and Jackie. Poet Jane Hirshfield on genius, happiness, and the film 'Hilary and Jackie' By David Templeton Writer David Templeton--driven by an impulse he has never properly explained--takes interesting people to interesting movies in an ongoing quest for the ultimate post-film conversation....

Luis Rodriguez

Class War Always Running doesn't belong in classrooms. Luis Rodriguez casts a skeptical eye on attempts to ban his autobiography By Patrick Sullivan IT'S A HARD-CORE book. I'm the first to admit that," says Luis Rodriguez. "There's a lot of graphic material. But that's done for a reason. There's no way you can write this...

Talking Pictures

Curtain Call By David Templeton Writer David Templeton--driven by an impulse he has never properly explained--takes interesting people to interesting movies in an ongoing quest for the ultimate post-film conversation. Each discussion is taped, labeled and catalogued. When moved to do so, Templeton shares these tangential chit-chats with the public. This week, Templeton taps into Tape #189:...

Y2K Bug Preparedness

Time BalmWhile the clock ticks, Y2K activists work to strengthen our communitiesBy David TempletonBY THE TIME midnight arrives on Dec. 31 of this year, a mere 47 weeks or so from now, a lot of folks will be so tired of hearing the term "Y2K" that they'll stay home with the blankets up over their heads, either to avoid...

Valentine’s Day Wines

In the Mood Valentine's Day tips on wine, women, and whatever By Bob Johnson IT'S TOO BAD Beavis and Butt-head were always ditching English class. Had they shown up once in a while, they may have come in contact with the poetry of William Butler Yeats, and Mr. Yeats' rhythmical compositions could have helped them...

Spins

Swan Songs Pair of blues CDs from dear and departed By Greg Cahill IT AIN'T GRITS 'n' gravy, but the new blues CDs pouring into the stores this year portend a feast for diehard blues hounds. Last year certainly had its high points--notably great new albums from B. B. King, Duke Robillard, and Robert Jr. Lockwood....

Maceo Parker

Funk Felt Deep Saxophonist Maceo Parker delivers a 'Funk Overload' By Greg Cahill ASK MACEO PARKER to characterize his musical style and the celebrated saxophonist gets reflective. "Funky--lots of syncopated chops, stabs, stops, and jerks," he explains, during a phone interview from his hometown of Kingston, N.C. "Sometimes I try to stop and start where...

Talking Pictures

Stepping Up Blended family values: Julia Roberts and Jena Malone get cozy in Stepmom. Family therapist says 'Stepmom' delivers us from stereotypes By David Templeton David Templeton takes interesting people to interesting movies in his ongoing quest for the ultimate post-film conversation. This time out, he schedules a session with therapist Felicia Matto-Shepard, a...

Abandoned Mercury Mines

Mercury Rising Michael Amsler Abandoned mercury mines leave toxic legacy in North Bay By Janet Wells MERCURY--with a mythological cachet of fleet-footed skill, and synonyms like "quicksilver" and "cinnabar" gracing the names of local restaurants, schools, and theaters--is part of Northern California's heritage. The sinister era of mercury may be over--people no longer regularly...

Sonoma County Road Food

Road Food By Marina Wolf ONE USUALLY EATS in a fancy restaurant for one of several reasons: to celebrate the raise, to impress the parents, to warm up the sweetie for a little woo. But where to go when there's no reason, no one to impress or seduce, when all that's needed is comfort, convenience, or...
11,084FansLike
4,606FollowersFollow
6,928FollowersFollow