Grizzly Studios

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Photograph by Rory McNamara

Monsters of Rock: Roger Tschann has been courted by L.A. music execs and may yet move to where the money is. But for now, Grizzly is his home.

Behind the Music

Beyond the doors of Roger Tschann’s Grizzly Studios, legends are made

By Sara Bir

You hear stories. Oh, you hear stories: plates of petrified spaghetti in the sink; crusty punk rockers in gorilla suits with bottles of Jim Beam, standing in the driveway heckling passers-by; shock-rock bands smearing feces (or something like it) all over the studio walls.

Bands on speed. Bands with crazy people on speed. Bands that aren’t even old enough to drive yet and have to have their moms drop them off at the studio, where they get all jacked up on junk food and soda. Bands that sit in front of a television playing fat-fetish porn as the studio is readied . . .

So the first thing you notice about Grizzly Studios–the actual, real life studio, not the one of legend–is that it’s really not that bad. Where once there was a lot full of weeds there is now a brand-new deck, and the studio itself is clear of McDonald’s wrappers and used condoms and empty beer cans–all the flotsam typically associated with rock bands gone wild. The sofa’s pretty beat up, and recording equipment is strewn about, though not wildly. “The reason these cables are not put away,” Roger Tschann says, gesturing toward a few piles of recording equipment, “is because we use them.”

Maybe Grizzly Studios used to be that bad. As it is now, the bathroom looks in better shape than most public restrooms found in fast-food joints, even though it has no sink. But you know how stories are. They gain momentum upon each retelling, and any place as storied as Grizzly is bound to be the victim of wild exaggeration for dramatic effect.

Or maybe not. Some of these stories are true, and others may be slightly less true. But they’re all good ones.

Someday someone could write a book about Sonoma County’s underground music scene. It would make a great read, but not too many people would care, save the ones from the bands and maybe their moms and girlfriends or boyfriends. After a while, you learn that everyone in the scene is in some kind of band. It’s like one huge band with 1,000 different side projects–one big, happy/miserable incestuous family. Some people you know by name; others, just by sight, and you will never know their names, just their faces and they way they lurk in corners and nod their heads to the music.

Probably half of that book would take place at Petaluma’s Grizzly Studios, where Roger Tschann has been recording bands since 1993 or so. Sometimes he’s credited as producer, sometimes he’s credited as engineer, and sometimes he’s not credited at all. What started in his mom’s garage moved to grander digs where partyers have puked, legends have been created, and about a million bands have recorded. Most of them are locals, but some come from Santa Cruz, Oakland, and L.A. One band even drove all the way from New Jersey to record.

What makes Grizzly great is also what makes it not so great. “Grizzly is very comfortable,” says Jon Fee, bass player for the Rum Diary, who have recorded an EP and two albums there since 1999. “Which is wonderful, but it can also become a band’s worst enemy when it’s time to work.”

Ah, yes. Fun, comfort. Translated into rock-musician terms, that means partying. And party the musicians have. The studio itself looks like it’s seen some rock. “You can’t have on the big, bright lights. You gotta have these,” Tschann says, flipping on a set of red and blue track lights that cast a seedy glow. “You close the door, you don’t know whether it’s day or night outside. You’re in your own world in here.”

It’s difficult to put a finger on exactly which world that is–small-time rock stardom? Fledgling greatness? The sordid lair of rock incarnate, going on nonstop right under our community’s nose?

“Having a career like this encourages you to have a certain rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle,” confesses Tschann in his usual dry yet dramatic delivery, at turns self-deprecating and self-glorifying. He has longish, dark, unkempt hair; and has sported variations of a Fu Manchu/goatee arrangement for years. “It’s not the jet-set rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle–people come here and they’re all rock ‘n’ rollers. I’ve curbed my rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle a lot, and you will see that reflected in the organization and tidiness of the place. There used to be a lot more rock ‘n’ roll, let me tell you.”

This coming from a man who uses the tag line “Smells like ass” in his studio’s advertisements. But he’s grown up since then. And he’s put some stuff away, most of it in a narrow storage room full of junk. “I’m kind of a pack rat. I have a hard time throwing things away,” explains Tschann as he pulls out a flat piece of plastic that’s covered in spray paint. “This is one of the stencils they used to make the promo packs for Little Tin Frog’s press kit. We’re talking 1996.”

It’s precisely such junk–plus a library of recordings by hundreds of bands that have come, gone, and come again–that makes Tschann an archivist of North Bay music by default. “Pretty much every band that ever existed in the North Bay,” Tschann says, pointing to a shelf crammed with tapes, “almost any band–they’re up there.”

Scanning their labels, you can receive a crash-course in North Bay music of the past decade or so: SFB, Meriwether, Skitzo, the Tonkas, Shut Up Donny, Cannonball, the Wunder Years, Farewell to Steam.

Those are all older recordings, though. As for the new stuff, it just keeps on coming. “Yesterday,” Tschann says, flipping through a legal pad that makes up his recording schedule, “Go Time was here–California ska, kind of Sublime-ish.” Also recently at Grizzly: Sorry about the Fire, Enslavior, Traction, and some metal band called Crucial Torque.

So that’s ska, emo, and metal. “There’s definitely trends in music, and that’s reflected from people who come in here,” says Tschann. “It affects me, too; I get into whatever everybody else is into. A lot of the bands that come to me are on the heavier side–maybe punk, metal. Most of the time, I record rock groups or live acoustic kind of things. It runs the gamut from bluegrass to bands like Inkwell, heavy pop stuff.”

Grizzly’s bread and butter are local bands, who come to the studio for dependable recording that’s within their budget. “There’s such a need for what he does. There’s a lot of recording studios around the county, but I wouldn’t really want to go to any one of them,” says Gabe Meline, whose band, Santiago, recorded an album at Grizzly this summer. Meline works at the Last Record Store in Santa Rosa and has been in many North Bay bands over the years (including, for a few months, a Bruce Springsteen cover band with Tschann). “It’s incredibly affordable, the sound quality is magnificent. Roger hangs out at shows; you can get drunk at a party with him. He’s a good person.”

“Grizzly is basically the Honda Accord of studios,” says the Rum Diary’s Fee. “It ain’t a BMW and it ain’t a Pinto. What makes it great is the finished recording product will always provide you with an honest description of the band. Roger will never make you sound better than you are, and he’ll never make you sound worse.”

Not everyone would agree, though. Some maintain that crappy bands with crappy equipment can go to Grizzly and come out with a decent-sounding recording, because Tschann will do what he can to make them sound good. Whether that’s a good thing or not is up to the listener.

Sometimes bands–particularly bands from farther away–will camp out at Grizzly for the duration of their recording. “It’s kind of fun. I like doing albums that way,” Tschann says. “It’s almost like a vacation for them, and it’s cool because we’ll barbecue and drink beer and hang out and record an album–like going to camp or something.”

Camp Grizzly is typically what spawns the best stories–and the most trash. “If I had the gumption to bring my recycling in, I’d be a wealthy man.” Tschann theorizes. “Every week there’s a trash can full of beer bottles, because every week four or five bands come through.”

A few months ago, Los Dryheavers came up from Watsonville with an entire library of wrestling videos to keep them entertained while recording their new album. That’s the tamer side of Grizzly. There’s a story involving closed-circuit video cameras and the unwitting participants of a sexual encounter who got spied on. There’s a story about a band who smoked crack. Or the band who dressed up like the Village People . . .

And then there’s Casey, who Tschann insists is “the future of rock ‘n’ roll.” Casey (Tschann says he doesn’t remember his last name) was a not-quite-all-there guy with the singing voice of Kermit the Frog, who played guitar and wrote strange little songs prodigiously. He’d hire a session drummer, book studio time at Grizzly, and record an album. Not as crazy as Wesley Willis, Casey was as serious. Sample lyric: “Minerals in my gray teeth / Minerals in my gray teeth . . .” When Casey moved to Portland, Grizzly lost its most unique client.

Tschann grew up in Petaluma, listening to “everything from glam metal to death metal to punk rock to shoegazer stuff.” He used to play guitar in various bands, and when he convinced some friends of his to chip in to buy an ADAT (a recording device about the size of a VCR), the recording bug bit.

Tschann began acquiring equipment and set it all up in his mom’s garage–“a bunch of rinky-dink microphones and stuff,” he says. “Sure enough, it didn’t sound like a record, just some rinky-dink studio. But it didn’t sound that much worse than what all of my friends were getting out of going to more legit studios. And I was doing it super cheap. I got more and more into it, and eventually it became this obsession.”

Figuring he could make a go at doing this for a living, Tschann quit his job at the T-shirt silk-screening place where he worked and put all of the money he made into buying more gear. The first band he recorded was called Lungbutter.

“I’m lucky that my mom let me do it in her garage for a few years. It was cool of her. She’d had just about enough. But I bet she kind of misses it now. Tattooed skinhead kids using the bathroom–‘Hi, Mrs. Tschann.'”

In 1997, Tschann moved from his mom’s garage to the “Ranch,” as it’s called, a house in an unassuming east Petaluma neighborhood. Tschann gutted it and converted it into what advertisements for Grizzly claim, perhaps only half-jokingly, is “quite simply the best recording facility in the whole wide world.”

At the time bassist Josh Staples and his then-girlfriend (and presently wife and bandmate in the New Trust) Sara Sanger rented out the house next door to Grizzly. In the early ’90s they started Flying Harold Records, which eventually put out albums by locals Cropduster, Adam Theis Ensemble, the Conspiracy, and others. Roger had become a partner in the label in 1994 with a release by Eric Lindell and the Reds.

Also launched at the house not long afterwards was Section M, a zine covering underground music in the North Bay with an irreverent but ultimately charming tone. It was a bit of a golden age for music up here. Venues were plentiful; bands like the Conspiracy, Edaline, and Cropduster developed major local followings; and idealism ran high.

Later that same year, Flying Harold, proving to be too time-consuming for its partners to support and stay sane (Roger often spent 60-plus hours working in the studio, Staples’ band was frequently gone on tour, and Sanger was a full-time student with a full-time job), ceased to be. In 2001, the all-ages Inn of the Beginning, which hosted many local and touring bands in a midsized, hospitable venue, closed its doors. Most recently, Section M, in want of manpower and funding it never had in the first place, went on hiatus. These events all went down over an extended period, but they’ve been somewhat indicative of how diffused the music scene has become in the North Bay.

“Santa Rosa’s a provincial town, and people involved in the music scene in Santa Rosa are in love with the idea that none of the really remarkable bands from here are going to go anywhere,” says Meline “And that’s unfortunate. There’s a sort of nihilism that pervades us all, a romanticism of failure, and I think that actually affects the fact that Roger hasn’t had a big hit.”

Tschann himself is in a band. Tschann’s alter ego (“Pedactor”) plays drums in Aphrodisiax, a full-on assault of ’80s metal, sort of on the Guns N’ Roses tip, with songs about evil women and drinking too much. Scott “Scotty Steele” Morris–formerly of the Invalids, currently an engineer at Grizzly–does the vocals. Aphrodisiax don’t play too many shows, but their CD sounds really good. Go figure.

A few years ago, an A&R guy from Virgin called Tschann. He had noticed some very nice-sounding records sent his way, and they were all recorded at a Grizzly Studios. Then someone from Capitol called. The big-time music industry came a-courting. “For a while there, I was talking to people from the L.A. world, and they were all saying that I should move to L.A. I’ve weighed my options, and I’m still thinking about maybe doing that at some point. But I like being up here. I like that I have some history here. Plus, I don’t like L.A. that much. Maybe I would like it if I tried it out for a while, but it doesn’t appeal to me very much right now.”

In any case, Tschann isn’t as content to sit in his pink bathrobe recording bands in a room full of empty beer cans as he used to be. Grizzly studios is growing up, sort of. “Back in the day, I’d sit there and hold the bands’ hands through the whole process a lot more than I do now.” he says. “I was often not credited as producing, but I never really cared. I just wanted to make some cool records. But to get on that industry track–it’s a lot more of a different style of operating. I know I need to make some sort of next step, because I’ve been cruising along like this for a while. And maybe,” he trails off, “the next step is moving to L.A. . . .”

And it’s true. You get older, restless, ponderous about what else in the world there is for you to do and where you could be doing it. But Grizzly Studios is here now, and as long as it is, both the 16-year-old next door who just learned to play bass last year and the slightly balding mandolin virtuoso know where they can leave a record of their art for all posterity. And for hella cheap, too.

“Roger once told me his studio was the cheapest whore in town,” says Fee. “I wouldn’t know where to start with naming every single band or artist that has recorded at his Grizzly–he’s pretty much nailed us all! And to think he’s supposed to be the whore in this equation? Go figure.”

“I just like music,” Tschann says. “Music’s cool. Almost everyone listens to music, and I think it helps to shape people’s identity. It certainly has shaped my identity. If I wasn’t doing this, I don’t know what kind of stupid person I’d be. I like thinking of myself as some sort of maverick studio dude.”

A Grizzly Sampler

Over the past seven years, some of the best and brightest recordings of the North Bay (and beyond) have come from Grizzly Studios. Here’s a crib sheet.

Cropduster, ‘A Strange Sort of Prayer,’ 1998
The swan song of Flying Harold Records. Nearly every person spoken to for this story cites Cropduster’s heartbreaking alt-country masterpiece as their favorite record to come out of Grizzly. Says Gabe Meline: “That record is as if the heavens opened up and the descending angel of all that is good landed in Grizzly Studios.”

Cannonball, ‘Hiphopulation,’ 2001
Trombonist extraordinaire and Sonoma County native Adam Theis plays ringleader to Cannonball’s funky circus of creative rapping and be-bop jazz.

The Pattern, ‘Immediately,’ 2001
Well, that whole ‘garage band revival’ thing didn’t last too long, did it? Perhaps Oakland’s Pattern, who dropped a string of singles and just one album in three short years before disbanding last month, sensed this. But they were a blast of a band, and on Immediately they distilled all of the energy from their terse, loud, and raunchy live sets into a six-song EP with hooks, sneers, and leers aplenty.

Sin in Space, ‘Asteroid Band,’ 2001
Santa Cruz’s Sin in Space have sadly imploded (too much rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle), but they leave behind Asteroid Band, whose crystalline simplicity and upbeat aggressiveness call to mind Trompe le Monde-era Pixies in all of the best ways. The recording is clear as a bell. No tuneless emo-esque singing or messy fusion of 50 underground music styles here, and thank God. You play this CD and you know what you get.

Skitzo, ‘Got Sick?’ 2000
Decades will pass and civilizations will fall, but Sonoma County will always have Skitzo. This album’s cover features a photo of lead puker Lance Ozanix’s face imposed upon a woman’s genitalia, so it looks like her–well, her you know–is puking. Metal, metal, metal, sick and addictive.

From the November 13-19, 2003 issue of the North Bay Bohemian.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Spencer Hughes

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Swing Right

Spencer Hughes, Pat Thurston’s replacement on KSRO, is right-wing, loudmouthed, and not particularly local

When local newstalk station KSRO-1350 AM–the self-titled “voice of Sonoma County”–was forced to find a pregnancy-leave replacement for North Bay icon and afternoon drive-time host Pat Thurston, who gave birth to triplets in July, a lot of people just assumed that her new pinch hitter would be much like herself–Liberal with a capital L, heavily dependent on in-studio interviews, and deeply rooted in Sonoma County.

What listeners got instead was Spencer Hughes.

A product of San Francisco’s radio station KSFO, where he worked as an intern and fill-in host for the likes of Michael Savage and Tom Cam, Hughes held his own weekend show on KSFO in the mid ’90s and has practiced his act on several stations in Sacramento, including KFBK, Rush Limbaugh’s old alma mater. Over the years, Hughes has developed a highly entertaining radio style, blending on-air comedy routines with paranormal gossip (UFOs, Bigfoot sightings, ghost stories) and archly conservative, liberal-bashing tirades against everything from the “liberal media” to the recent law granting drivers licenses to illegal aliens.

Hughes has publicly refuted government statistics showing a national decline in violent crime (“It’s not that we’re killing less but that medical advances are making it harder to keep them dead!”) and has proposed that convicted criminals be stranded on an island of rabid dogs, surrounded by sharks, and fed with stale bread dropped from passing helicopters. After a successful stint espousing such views at KFBK, he hopped over to startup station KTKZ, owned by the Salem Radio Network, a conglomerate so far to the right that Hughes, ironically, was immediately labeled NCE: not conservative enough. “They were so far right,” Hughes has said, “they made me look like a moderate.” He was let go after a year despite impressive ratings.

When KSRO station manager Brian Hudson, who originally hired Pat Thurston, began casting about for part-time fill-in hosts for the afternoon show, he remembered once hearing Hughes in Sacramento. “I remember thinking, ‘This guy is pretty entertaining. His mix of pop culture and politics is fun, he’s a witty guy, and he’s insightful,'” says Hudson. Not long after, Hudson added Hughes to his stable of part-time substitutes.

Last spring, when Thurston announced her pregnancy, Hudson picked Hughes to become Thurston’s regular Monday through Friday replacement. This, to put it mildly, sparked an immediate shit-storm of opposition from the county’s left-leaning radio-listening population. Hughes admits he expected some resistance from Thurston’s faithful followers but insists he was unprepared for the hostility he encountered during his first months on the air.

“I think I had three things working against me,” says Hughes. “I wasn’t left of center; I wasn’t female; and I wasn’t Pat.” For the record, Spencer Hughes is still none of those things, and his audience–or rather, Pat’s audience–is still numb from the shock of the left-right transplant.

“All I can say about Spencer Hughes,” states longtime KSRO listener Carolyn McLeese of Bodega, “is that he does not even come close to the work of Pat Thurston, whom I hope will come back quickly. I don’t know where Spencer came from, but I hope he will fade into the woodwork soon.”

Hughes argues that anyone stepping into Thurston’s shoes would have faced a similar response, regardless of his or her politics.

“People weren’t giving me a chance, and a lot still aren’t,” he says. “It’s a backlash. I’m still facing it. People were saying, ‘Hey, you’re not the person I’ve been listening to for the last few years, and . . . you know, I resent you for that.’ But listen: I’m not Pat Thurston. Nobody can be Pat Thurston except for Pat Thurston. I’m Spencer Hughes. Just give me shot, man. Just give me a chance.”

One person who strongly supports Hughes is Gene Burns of San Francisco’s KGO-AM 810, whom Spencer views as an early mentor. Nighttime radio’s resident Libertarian, Burns admits to being at odds with some of Hughes political views, but he encourages KSRO listeners to look beyond that to the new host’s many other qualities.

Other qualities?

“Well, with Spencer Hughes, what you hear is what you get,” posits Burns. “You are not listening to someone who has become a bomb thrower of either ideology just to cause a reaction or to get attention. He believes what he says.” Asked to speculate why KSRO, a station serving a largely left-of-center county, would replace a popular liberal talk-show host with a fiercely conservative one, Burns laughs. “Leaving aside his ideology, he comes with a great work ethic. He’s very responsible, and he’s a serious student of his craft. Either [KSRO] wanted to throw the audience a changeup pitch, or they were sold on his work habits and personal qualities–regardless of his political opinion.

“Of course, there’s nothing wrong with shocking the audience a little bit if they get too comfortable with whoever they’re listening to,” Burns adds. “Agreement is boring. A couple of people on the radio telling one another how right they each are is snoozeville. When somebody comes out of the box and comes at you, yelling, fighting, and challenging your every word, if you are up for the fight–and Spencer is up for the fight–that’s when you get exciting radio.”

For some listeners, it’s not Hughes’ politics, exciting or not, that bothers them. Faithful KSRO listener and talk-radio aficionado Keith Thompson explains, “Agree or disagree with Pat Thurston’s politics, she was decidedly interested in local issues and local personalities. Even when she did a show on foreign policy, she tended to use local experts. Spencer Hughes almost never has local guests.”

This brings us to a particularly odd piece of the Spencer Hughes controversy. Hughes freely admits that he resides in Sacramento and phones his show in from home two or three times a week. (Well, he freely admits it during this interview, anyway. He’s been known to hang up on callers who make that assertion). According to Hughes, he commutes to Santa Rosa and performs the show in-studio at least twice a week.

To be fair, there are many radio hosts who do this in the Bay Area, from KGO’s Len Tillem and Dean Edell to KSFO’s David Gold and now-retired Jim Eason (who used to phone his show in from North Carolina). Pat Thurston her self lives in Marin County. According to Hughes, should his position at KSRO become permanent, he’ll be happy to relocate his family from Sacramento to Sonoma County. Till then though, his ties to Sacramento will probably remain a focal point for a group of callers who’ve been making a game of pointing out the Sacramento connection on air, to Hughes’ smoldering annoyance.

“It’s such a dumb thing to make a big deal about,” Hughes says. “I live in Sacramento. I commute to Santa Rosa all the time. I appear at breakfast club meetings and public events in Sonoma County. I’m working to familiarize myself with Sonoma County issues, and I’ll do more of that in the future. People who have a problem with that are just embarrassing themselves.”

Thompson supports Hughes and affirms that at least twice a week, Hughes does the show from the KSRO studios in Santa Rosa.

“If you hear Spencer saying he’s in the studio,” he says, “then he’s in the studio. But there are these people who are convinced that he never sets foot in Sonoma County. That’s just not true.”

As for why he hired a right-winger to occupy what is arguably the highest profile spot on the North Bay radio dial, Thompson insists it was not to “kick the beehive,” so to speak, but to draw new listeners to the station. Clearly though, he knew the move would be controversial.

“People are wildly, extremely loyal to their talk-show hosts,” Thompson says. “Changing someone’s radio show routine is not something any station programmer wants to do. That said, Pat got pregnant with triplets. She was going away. We had to bring in someone, and we picked Spencer.” While admitting that Hughes has attracted a lot of conservatives and alienated what Thompson calls “the left-wing fringe,” Thompson points out that some of the most vocal opponents of the new guy are listeners who can recite, point by point, every offensive remark Hughes has made every day for the last several months.

Says Hughes, with a laugh, “Some of my most loyal listeners are people who hate me.”

From the November 6-12, 2003 issue of the North Bay Bohemian.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Loading Zone

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Photograph by Katrina Van Winkle

Arts and Craft: The cast of ‘Dinner with Friends’: at top, David Lear; middle, from left: Jan Freifeld, Cynthia Abrams, Clark Miller, and Al Liner; bottom: Christina O’Reilly and Corisa Aaronson.

In the Zone

In Loading Zone, actors are doin’ it for themselves

By Davina Baum

Corisa Aaronson is sitting in one corner of a small room in the Lincoln Arts Center, stretching her limbs and emitting deep, yogalike ha’s. Clark Miller is pacing about the room, looking slightly worried. David Lear–wiry and monklike in a skullcap–is tasked, as director, with getting his actors motivated this evening. He has Miller and another actor, Jan Freifeld, engage in a warmup exercise that involves them trading barbs.

The first run is stilted, awkward. Lear stops them, pushing them to get into character. The second run is more naturalistic; the two are riffing off the characters they are playing in the Donald Margulies play Dinner with Friends, taking digs at each other about their relationships with their wives. It’s clear they know their alter egos pretty deeply.

Next, Aaronson and Cynthia Abrams perform the exercise. Lear is clearly happy with the results, and he gets Aaronson and Miller started on Scene 2, Act I, in which Miller, playing Tom, surprises his wife, Beth (played by Aaronson), at home after her return from a dinner party with their best friends. Tom realizes that Beth has told their friends about their breakup, something he had wanted them to do together.

The actors work and rework their lines, with Lear stopping them, working through the emotions, studying their gestures, their timing, their voices. After two hours, they’ve made it through about half the scene.

As Al Liner, the show’s stage manager, puts it: “There is no end result; it’s all about the process.”

Loading Zone is Corisa Aaronson, Cynthia Abrams, Christina O’Reilly, David Lear, and Al Liner. Jan Freifeld and Clark Miller are joining the group for this production. The group emerged from Aaronson, Lear, and Liner working together at Studio Be, Lennie Dean’s now-defunct theatrical studio and acting school. The impulse to perfect their craft has kept the group together almost three years, workshopping two days a week. The performance of Dinner with Friends–running Nov. 7 through Dec. 13–is presented almost as a side thought.

“About a year ago,” Lear says, sitting with Aaronson, O’Reilly, Liner, and me at Wolf’s Coffee in downtown Santa Rosa, “Corisa came in with Dinner with Friends, and I thought that it was a great piece to work on in the shop. . . . We worked on it off and on for a year and one night Al said we should do this [for the public]. It’s not like we took this play on to present it to the public, not at all; that’s not the focus. It emerged out of our work with it.”

The players are so intensely involved in working their craft, it seems to come as a surprise to them that an audience may have an interest in looking in. But, as O’Reilly notes, “Performing is craft also, because you don’t know what you’ve done or what you’ve got until you perform. It’s a chance to take all the work that we’ve done and put it in front of an audience and see how deep it goes and what the effect is.”

A smart audience will want to look in on this craftcentric group. In this rehearsal–a full month before the play goes up–the actors immediately draw their audience (me, as well as Liner, Freifeld, Abrams, and O’Reilly, sitting on the side) in. Their characters, Tom and Beth, are truly alive–emotional beings, separate from Aaronson and Miller’s real lives.

As the couple fight, Lear suggests that they pick up the cadence. As the fight crescendos and they’re nailing it, Liner is sitting on the sidelines, pumping his fist, and Lear is hovering over the actors. They are transcending their lines; they are really speaking to each other.

This depth of character comes in part from the luxury of time, according to the members. Instead of the typical market-driven theater group, which has a season and a production calendar, Loading Zone has the freedom to do what it wants, when it wants.

“I don’t see our group having an outcome,” asserts Lear, who seems to have been labeled the highly respected grumpy iconoclast of the group. “Loading Zone is a gymnasium where we work out our craft, hone it, and try on new techniques, combine them, and by combining them, we come out with something that is exciting, serious, that makes us nervous.”

Liner–who acts as the goofy, personable foil to Lear’s gravitas–adds that the play went through many experimental stages; originally he and Lear were going to each do both male parts. “The whole thing was, ‘Let’s do this and practice our craft.’ It’s never been about, ‘Let’s try and pull in an audience.’ We’re doing it for ourselves.”

Dinner with Friends is not an obscure, arty play; it’s entirely accessible. It’s about you, it’s about your friends and your relationships–how they fall apart, how they stick together. It’s even been made into a film, starring Dennis Quaid and Andie MacDowell. In choosing a mainstream play to mount, Loading Zone wasn’t trying to make any statements; it was “right for [them] at the time,” as Lear says, “because of some of the work we were doing in technique. It dealt with the aspect of human nature that we were actually working on. . . . The more we worked on it, the deeper we went.

“We telescoped further and further in, we started freeforming the things we were finding out about it, and then we go back to the written word. It might be mainstream, but it depends what people do with it that makes it different and takes it above mainstream pop stuff.”

The quintet, who all have various full-time or part-time day jobs, have worked elsewhere in the county’s theater scene–Aaronson at Cinnabar and Liner and Lear at Actors Theatre. Their impulse with Loading Zone comes largely from the need to break free from restrictions–artistic, market, or just personal.

“That’s why I’m a part of Loading Zone,” says Lear, “because it offers me the opportunity to do the kind of work I want to do, the kind of work that wouldn’t necessarily be acceptable in other theaters in the county. This is where I can try out my ideas and see if they work or not.” Their ideas run the gamut, and the group casts a wide net in their theatrical methods.

With the time the group allows themselves, and their commitment to craft, it behooves Loading Zone to explore all sides of the characters, using different techniques. Jerzy Grotowski is a favorite. The Polish director trained actors to focus away from themselves and used very active movement. The arrival of Christina O’Reilly into the Loading Zone group brought the inclusion of “authentic movement”–a dance technique, really, “where you let yourself go” says Lear. The combination of these methods and others allowed for further exploration of the characters.

The members are careful not to disparage other local theater companies, but they stress that Loading Zone is fundamentally different. Liner notes that “[in] a lot of other theater companies, because of the short period of time, you have just enough time to learn your lines and go stand where you have to stand. But if you really are going to connect as a human being and be real, I have to hear what you’re saying. Not only the words, but what you mean. So we are really studying all that stuff.”

Says O’Reilly, “There’s an embodiment, there’s a dimensionality that happens in the characters. . . . You can go very deep into the characters because it’s taken all that time to integrate fully into each person, it’s not just something that’s a cloak.”

Liner came into Loading Zone with a very inside-out method of acting, and he says that working through all the different methods has made him a better actor. In rehearsal, Lear stops the actors often, forcing them to verbalize how they, as their characters, are feeling at that moment, and how they should be physicalizing their emotions.

The group isn’t out to best all the other theater groups in the area; they don’t see themselves as competitors. As each member often stresses, they are there to hone their craft and do their best. Each comes to Loading Zone with different goals beyond craft. Liner, for example, is more interested in film than theater. O’Reilly is writing plays. “The outcome, though, for all of us together is delving into our crafts,” says Liner. “That’s the unifying factor. How that comes to fruition for each of us might be different, but we all still go headfirst into our craft.”

The Loading Zone production of ‘Dinner with Friends’ runs Nov. 7 through Dec. 13, Thursday-Saturday, at 8pm, and Sun, Nov. 30, at 2pm. Lincoln Arts Center, Studio 208, 709 Davis St., Santa Rosa. $15-$18. 707.765.4843.

From the November 6-12, 2003 issue of the North Bay Bohemian.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Geyser Smokehouse

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Photograph by Michael Amsler

Smokin’: Sara Aries serves up sumptuous smokehouse grub with sass.

Cowboy Cuisine

Geyser Smokehouse appeals to the little buckaroo in all of us

By R. V. Scheide

In 1979, when Geyser Smokehouse owner Bill Weisel moved to California, he was a little disappointed. An East Coast native, he’d grown up watching Hollywood Westerns featuring cowboy heroes like Hopalong Cassidy, the Lone Ranger, and the Cisco Kid. The Golden State was nice enough–he took to Sonoma County right away–but something was missing. Weisel found himself asking, nearly two decades before cultural anthropologist Jewel would pose the very same question, “Where have all the cowboys gone?”

A former television producer, director, and set designer for ABC News in New York City, Weisel was in the process of a fairly dramatic career change, from TV executive to home renovator. Settling in Healdsburg, he carved out a successful niche for himself renovating homes and hotels, but in the back of his mind, the absence of one of the wild, wild West’s most recognizable icons persisted.

Then, maybe five years ago, while sitting in Santi Restaurant in Geyserville, it struck him. The place was packed with patrons plenty willing to pony up $80 for dinner and wine for two. Wouldn’t they be even more likely to fill up a joint that offered similar high quality fare, but at a more moderate price? And what if this moderately priced eatery was centered around a kick-ass cowboy bar? Thus, with visions of Hoot Gibson galloping through Weisel’s head, the concept for Geyser Smokehouse was born.

Weisel purchased one of the oldest buildings in Geyserville, the Odd Fellows Hall, built in 1862. At the time of purchase, it was a foundering Mexican restaurant, but it had once been a stagecoach stop for travelers visiting the famed resorts and spas of Lake County. Weisel and his business partners went to work.

They ripped up five layers of linoleum to
get to the hardwood floors underneath, sand-blasted and sealed the dusty brick walls, installed a neoclassical tin ceiling, and then started shopping the auctions. Their discoveries included an enormous wood bar with twin columns, a knockoff of a Frederic Remington bronco-busting bronze to go between the columns, and an old hay baler that looks like a diabolical cattle guard to hang on the wall. Finishing the place out with a homemade antler chandelier and assorted rusty bits of farm machinery and cowboy tackle, Weisel’s vision was fully realized two years ago, when Geyser Smokehouse opened for business.

Geyserville is the proverbial small town that you’ll miss if you blink while passing through. It’s that tiny. But unlike other North County hamlets that were bypassed by the rebuilt 101 freeway, access into Geyserville couldn’t be easier. Coming from the north or the south, the first Geyserville exit dumps right onto Old Redwood Highway, renamed Geyserville Avenue. The Smokehouse is the place with all the Harleys parked in front.

The booming V-twin set has discovered Bill Weisel’s kick-ass cowboy bar–and why not? As noted philosopher Bon Jovi once remarked, “I’m a cowboy, on a steel horse I ride.” There’s likely to be a hot rod or two parked out front as well. Put the highway and all this glinting chrome together outside a solid brick shithouse of a building fronted by a dusty boardwalk, and it makes sense that on the menu the kick-ass cowboy bar has been officially recast as “a good time Sonoma County roadhouse with a simple country kitchen.”

The type of moderately priced food to serve was never in doubt: good ol’ American barbecue, the kind of food you might get at a stagecoach stop or on a cattle drive. Weisel and company combed the backwaters of Texas and Louisiana, searching for the perfect barbecue sauce. “I can’t tell you what’s in it without giving away the secret,” says current executive chef Josh Anderson. “Our first chef found it, and we’ve only tweaked it a little since then.” Its smoky, spicy, tangy flavor informs just about every dish in the house, from the barbecued oysters to the pulled pork sandwich.

My first sampling from this simple country kitchen was the oysters ($7.95). The half-dozen bivalves, provided by a local food purveyor who searches out the freshest shellfish available, were small and plump, broiled medium-rare in the half-shell and topped with the aforementioned barbecue sauce. A squeeze of lemon wedge, a splash of Tabasco, they’re gone. I’ve had them on three occasions, and haven’t had a bad mollusk yet.

Southwest house-smoked chicken salad ($8.95), a heap of lettuce topped with grated cheddar, tortilla strips, fresh salsa and sliced smoked chicken breast, provided a light and tasty introduction to the restaurant’s specialty, various kinds of meat slowly cooked in a gas-fired wood-burning rotisserie smoker. The smokers are manufactured by Southern Pride, a Texas company whose service reps, according to Weisel, will tell you after you’ve called and informed them you’re from California, “We ain’t gonna hold that against you.”

Here’s how the Southern Pride system works, as explained by chef Anderson. Each particular cut–chicken breast, quarter chickens, turkey breast, beef ribs, baby back ribs, three-bone ribs, tri tip, Texas brisket, pulled pork–gets its own special dry rub. Chicken, for instance, is brined, seasoned, and salted for 24 hours. Then it’s placed in the smoker.

The gas flame never touches the meat; instead, it ignites a combination of different woods–oak, apple wood, and Chardonnay vines–in the bottom of the smoker. The billowing clouds of sweet-smelling smoke filter upward and engulf the meat. Chicken gets an hour and a half to two hours in the smoker. Ribs get three hours. Brisket and pulled pork get eight.

This process has at least two advantages over your basic backyard barbecue operation. One, it impregnates the meat from skin to bone with a rich, savory flavor; and two, it tenderizes without overcooking and drying the meat out. Got a hankering for a drumstick, gramps? No problem. The chicken falls easily off the bone, no teeth required. Same deal with the three-bone ribs (chicken and ribs sampler $16.95). But so far, my favorite is the pulled pork sandwich ($7.95). Tangy, smoky, shredded meat, not too wet, not too dry, on a white sandwich bun that soaks up the juice just right. Tastes as good as a sloppy Joe used to when you were a kid.

In typical barbecue fashion, the Smokehouse offers a variety of side dishes, two free with a barbecue plate, one free with a sandwich, or you can get them à la carte for $2.95 each–cornbread with honey butter, ranchero beans, old-fashioned cole slaw, and the like. The cole slaw has little gold raisins and the cornbread has little niblets of corn, just like my mom’s.

The beans, seasoned with chipotle and cumin, taste just like something they might serve to grateful, starving cowboys on a cattle drive. Order ’em with the shredded pork sandwich, and they throw an extra dollop of shredded meat into the beans.

Noncowboys can choose from salads and burgers, even a smoked turkey or grilled eggplant sandwich. Wash it all down with Racer 5, Red Tail, or Boont Amber Ale from the bar, take in the Remington knockoff between the bar’s two massive wooden columns and all the rusty hardware crammed between the Smokehouse’s narrow brick walls, and it’s pretty easy to see that Bill Weisel accomplished what he set out to do: create a kick-ass cowboy bar and moderately priced restaurant.

Or call it a good time Sonoma County roadhouse with a simple country kitchen. Whatever. It’s the kind of place you want to drive to in a ’57 Cadillac convertible, “with the top let back and the sunshine shining,” as child psychologist Kid Rock puts it. “I wanna be a cowboy, baby.”

Who doesn’t, at least every once in a while?

Geyser Smokehouse is located at 21021 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville. Open daily, 11:30am-9pm. 707.857.4600.

From the November 6-12, 2003 issue of the North Bay Bohemian.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Starvation

Chew on This

Starvation in the pursuit of happiness

By Gretchen Giles

Encased in a plastic box suspended over London’s Thames River for 44 days, American trickster David Blaine performed a stupendous feat of perseverance. His self-imposed Perspex prison regularly pelted by onlookers with fish and chips, egg missiles, greasy sausages, and paint-filled balloons, Blaine had drunken women expose their breasts to him, was awakened to disruptive horn blasts and drum beats in the wee hours of the morning, and was verbally taunted by an outraged public almost without cease. What had he done to warrant such huge attention and bad manners?

Quite simply, he didn’t eat.

Embarking on a water-only fast in full view of the English public and various international TV cameras, Blaine starved himself as his “toughest endurance feat” ever. He lost 50 pounds in weight, reportedly gained £5 million, and to judge from his incoherent statements upon exiting the box for an ambulance this Oct. 20, evidently found some sort of a babbling god.

That people without an agent or a television contract unwillingly starve to death every hour of every day evidently upset some of Blaine’s detractors. That the cessation of eating is often the final stage of terminal illness assuredly affected those whose loved ones might be suffering that effect as Blaine wasted grossly away for the cameras. And with the Muslim fasting month of Ramadan underway since Oct. 27, one would assume that there are not a few spiritual adherents who might find such a public “feat” disrespectful.

But Blaine isn’t the only one starving for attention. The Aug. 24 New York Times‘ Sunday Styles section ran a feature story on Manhattanites who, while emphatically not stuck in egg-begrimed plastic boxes, instead cab about the city shopping, clubbing, and going to work energized by little more sustenance than comes from a commercial-grade juicing machine. Gushing about the myriad pleasures of not eating, adherents assured that they felt great, were having near-spiritual moments in the petites section of the Barney’s department store, and revealed sometimes unmet longings to spend a week in Desert Hot Springs at We Care Spa, a pricey “holistic health” facility offering a juice-only diet.

Frequented by celebrities seeking foodless down time replete with lymphatic massage and earnest “breath work,” We Care Spa charges some $3,500 a week–filet mignon not included. Flaming from one media outlet to another, the Sunday Styles story earned the ire of syndicated Miami Herald satirist Dave Barry. “I don’t know about you,” he wagged in a Oct. 12 column, “but when I see misguided individuals spending large sums of money–money that could be used to feed the hungry–on New Age wacko self-abuse, my reaction, as a humanitarian, is: How can I cash in on this?”

The Truest Prayer

Much more than just a quick zip down to a size zero, fasting has long been used as a means of making penance, assuring fertility, achieving retreat, commanding political influence, and finding a deeper connection to the ethereal. Ancient fasting traditions evolved in part to emulate the suspended sense of time experienced by those about to both enter and exit the world through birth and death, respectively. Almost every religion includes short fasting spates in its observances. The Encarta Encyclopedia reports that “Native North Americans held tribal fasts to avert threatening disasters. The Native Americans of Mexico and the Incas of Peru observed penitential fasts to appease their gods.”

Jews abstain on Yom Kippur and other holy days. Tibetan Buddhists take fasts, though Buddhism generally preaches more moderate observance. And the Bible is filled with stories of those including Jesus himself going for 40 long days without refreshment. Ruth fasted for a child; Moses to receive the Ten Commandments; Elijah to surmount Jezebel.

The great Indian leader Mahatma Gandhi regularly used fasting as a political and spiritual tool, writing that, “A complete fast is a complete and literal denial of self. It is the truest prayer.” But Gandhi denied more than the self during his fasts, abstaining even from water during his frequent hunger strikes.

So too did Irish Republican Army member Bobby Sands, who died 66 days after he began his fatal 1981 refusal of food and water in order to protest British authority over the Irish people by demanding to be termed a political prisoner for his activism rather than a common criminal. Canonized as an informal saint by IRA sympathizers, Sands and the nine others who died with him during the strike came not only to represent ill-conceived English rule but the dangers of refusal as a means to action.

Refusal of food is one of the most powerful personal tools of rational modern-day humanhood. Anorexics who reject sustenance to the point of hospitalization exercise punishing authority over the messy demands of a calorie-needy body. The exasperated parent of a firm-lipped toddler can only weakly hail the emerging selfhood shown by a repeated “no no” nod to that spoonful of greens. By negating nourishment, hunger strikers and children and those with eating disorders attempt to effect differing levels of command over situations that seem beyond their ken. The simple act of not doing something, the arc of absence, is wildly potent.

Show-offs and those who can afford to spend thousands of dollars in order to not eat make us extremely angry–otherwise more fish and chips would have been consumed than hurled at David Blaine, and Dave Barry wouldn’t need to call anyone a “wacko.” As animals, we innately can’t understand not eating; as animals, it fills us with dread.

Our entire genetic history is one long, elaborate story that essentially details getting enough food to be able to successfully reproduce and raise offspring who will also need to get enough food to reproduce. Culture and politics and societal structures are a recent and fairly light dessert addition to the constant ceaseless grubbing of the main meal.

Fat and Sick

Yet what if refusal were in fact the best means to action? What if not eating could actually save your life? Publishing a peer-reviewed scientific study in conjunction with Cornell University and as outlined in a new book for the nonscientific reader, Rohnert Park chiropractor Dr. Alan Goldhamer avers the radical notion that water-only fasting is sometimes the best nonprescription method of avoiding early death.

Co-author of The Pleasure Trap, published in October, with colleague and psychotherapist Dr. Doug Lisle, Goldhamer suggests that our constant grubbing has been far too successful. As a nation, according to a study released last month in the Archives of Internal Medicine, 34 million of us are either already diabetic or in the beginning stages. Some 58 million of us have high blood pressure. And a full 20 percent of us are morbidly obese. If Americans continue to grow at the rate we currently are, a super-sized 80 percent of the population will be morbidly obese by 2040.

And why are we so “fat-and-sick” (pronounced by Goldhamer as a one-word phrase of disgust)? Because we want to be happy. Sweet, simple happiness, which pursuit is an unalienable right so desirable that it finds reference in our Declaration of Independence. And what makes the modern-day American so hugely happy? Oil, flour, and sugar.

Seated in his office at his TrueNorth Health practice, Dr. Goldhamer has a fresh-faced aspect and the professional clinical demeanor of someone who treats thousands of patients each year. Our foods, he explains, are so highly processed that they buffet our minds about with each bite we take. Like alcoholics, like junkies, like those who crave and need and jones for the next fix, we have by the millions become a nation of addicts whose pursuit of happiness is wholly controlled by the ups, downs, and surprising sideways emotions caused each hour on the hour by the highly processed food and drink we regularly consume.

When the feel-good hormone dopamine released by these foods ebbs, we want more so we eat more to attain it, slowly getting fatter and more prone to diabetes and heart disease with each bite we take. This is what Goldhamer and Lisle identify as the “pleasure trap,” and they ably set out to prove how it’s killing us.

As with any addiction, the fastest and perhaps harshest fix of all is to go cold turkey. In reference to foods, this means not eating at all.

Fortunately, this trap can also be broken by a devout consumption of only whole foods. By adhering to a strict regime of fresh fruits and vegetables, brown rice, potatoes, small servings of such ostensibly “rich” things as nuts, and eschewing every other single thing available in markets and restaurants–including alcohol, aspirin, and foods processed in any manner–fully robust, long-lived health is within grasp, Goldhamer avers. But here’s the surprising catch: Contrary to the “eat, drink, and be merry” school, there is no middle ground.

“You cannot talk about moderation in response to substances that have no normal relationship to the human organism,” Goldhamer says. “In a natural setting, there’s no chocolate chip cookie tree, there’s no cheeseburger bush. These are . . . modern contrivances that artificially stimulate dopamine in the brain and, to vulnerable people, it leads to an addictive cycle that makes them fat and sick.”

And vegans can wipe that smug smile away. Tofu is just as bad in the paradigm of the pleasure trap as is a burger stuffed with triple-crème brie and topped with bacon. “You can be on a vegan diet that’s nothing but processed foods and be fat and sick,” Goldhamer says. “[Vegans] often trade their meat for processed soy products. What we’re suggesting is that you have to actually go back to a diet designed with your biology in mind, a diet of fresh fruits and vegetables, unprocessed grains, beans, walnuts, and seeds. That means,” he says, drawing a breath in order to prepare to slur the next several words together, “eliminating meatfishfowldairyproductssoysaltsoilflour-andsugar.”

Nature’s Surgeon

Goldhamer’s word-slam elucidates that which he believes–when combined with sedentary living, smoking, and alcohol–eventually conspires to cause most major American health epidemics. And giving them up is easier said than done in what he calls “a world that’s designed to make you sick.” But on a lonely strip of a country road high above Penngrove, his residential health education program is aimed at resetting the internal dopamine-driven gnaw for more of what’s bad.

Combining bed rest with just water, TrueNorth Health’s fasting clinic has treated over 5,000 patients since its establishment in 1984, documenting the results of 174 consecutive patients in a study showing that their blood pressure rates and insulin levels dropped dramatically upon enduring 40-day water-only fasts and stayed down after release if the patients adopted Goldhamer’s diet. The Union of Operating Engineers was impressed enough to include the facility in its private insurance coverage.

“Fasting is very radical,” Goldhamer says. “Even though it’s a simple natural process that’s a biological adaptation, in people’s minds it seems so counterintuitive. The World Encyclopedia around the turn of the century told people that if they didn’t eat for a week they would die, because they didn’t understand the adaptation process that happens with fasting.” Though Goldhamer says the biology of fasting is extremely well-understood and documented, none of the physicians contacted for this article would agree to comment on the practice.

“There’s lots of criticisms of fasting, but they mostly focus on how fasting is misused,” Goldhamer says. “Using fasting for weight loss or because you want to fit into a dress and then binge eating afterwards–with all of these things I agree completely with the critics and that’s why we insist so vehemently that if it’s going to be done, it be done right or forget about it.

“Human beings had to be able to fast for our species to survive,” he continues. “We have the largest brain-to-body mass ratio and the largest use of glucose. If human beings could not fast, our species could not have survived. Sometimes spring comes late and there’s not always enough to eat. Part of that adaptation is the brain’s ability to provide fuel. That’s very unique to humans, where it shifts from burning glucose to burning ketones, that’s what allows fasting to take place.

“In a natural setting, I’m not sure that fasting would have been necessary from a health standpoint. But in a natural setting, we didn’t have dietary excess except in very rare individuals–we used to call them kings. They developed the diseases that we see epidemic today. And it just so happens that when you allow a person to properly fast, the consequences of dietary excess are reversed. And that’s why diseases like high blood pressure and diabetes can be treated so effectively, by using these very simple natural biological adaptations.”

But this experience is not for Manhattanites planning to catch a cab, chard juice in hand. At TrueNorth Health, patients may not leave the grounds, can see visitors only on Saturdays, must submit to daily medical oversight, and may not exert themselves beyond the odd group lecture, video screening, or book. Deborah Boyar, a teacher, has visited the facility four times since 2000.

“It actually feels very nurturing,” Boyar says, seated cross-legged on a couch in her Marin County home. “I’ve never felt trapped when I was there. Each time I’ve felt very glad to be there, very glad to be free of my responsibilities and my environment, and like I’m being taken care of in this big family that understands real health–which is so rare in this world.”

Boyar says that she’s naturally been adhering to the diet outlined in The Pleasure Trap for 14 years, well before she met Goldhamer. She goes to TrueNorth not because she has dire health problems but to “use fasting as a recalibration, like hitting the reset button on my system.”

As for the experience itself, Boyar says, “Once you get there and you get in your room, you’re able to do it. You’re in the transmission of the place, and everyone there is doing the same thing, and they’re very supportive and welcoming, asking what day are you on and where are you from and what do you do. There might be discomfort along the way, and some days are better than others.”

Asked to describe what she means by “discomfort,” Boyar responds, “There could be headaches, pains in the belly or lower back, or any other part of the body depending on what’s happening with the person. I’ve only had headaches and lower back pain but it was very fleeting. The more water you drink, the less pain you have. [Fasting] is called ‘nature’s surgeon.’ Very deep levels of healing take place, and discomfort is understood as part of the process, not as a reason to break the process unless the doctors decide. I have seen a couple of cases where the doctors ended the fast early.”

Back at the clinic, Goldhamer says, “Health results from healthful living. Fasting alone won’t do it. You have to adopt a health-promoting diet in order to be healthy. Many people are so afraid of fasting and they don’t want to do it so vehemently that they’re motivated to stick with the program and get well. There are doctors in town who threaten their patients with me, ‘If you don’t get well soon, we’re going to have to send you to Dr. Goldhamer’s place.’ They joke that our sign should say, ‘The Last Resort.’

“Because clearly, people don’t want to have to take the time out. It can be quite uncomfortable. It takes time away from work, away from family, there are costs involved with staying in a facility. There’s nothing about it that people like, except,” Goldhamer says with a chuckle, “the results are quite dramatic.”

From the November 6-12, 2003 issue of the North Bay Bohemian.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

‘Modern Times’

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Man Against Machine: Charlie Chaplin’s ‘Modern Times’ portrays a far different time from ours, but manages to speak to us anyway.

Soul Man

Leonard Maltin talks about cogs, farm animals, and ‘Modern Times’

Writer David Templeton takes interesting people to interesting movies in his ongoing quest for the ultimate postfilm conversation. This is not a review; rather, it’s a freewheeling, tangential discussion of life, alternative ideas, and popular culture.

Charlie Chaplin and Leonard Maltin go way back. According to the famously amiable movie critic whom most people know from TV (Entertainment Tonight) or from his annual bestselling Leonard Maltin’s Movie and Video Guide, one of the very first films he ever saw on the big screen–possibly the first–was Charlie Chaplin’s 1936 semisilent masterpiece Modern Times. If a rogue bus driver were to hop the curb right now and kills us all on the sidewalk, Modern Times would also be the last movie Leonard Maltin ever saw, since we’ve just left the Rafael Theater where the classic film has been playing as part of the Mill Valley Film Festival. Maltin’s teenage daughter Jesse tags along as we step next door for a cup of coffee.

The movie, which Maltin confesses to having seen at least a couple of dozen times (and which has recently been released in a pristine DVD format, with plenty of extras), follows the labyrinthine adventures of Chaplin’s Little Tramp, who is driven comically insane by the tedious monotony of his joyless job. He’s a bolt turner on a massive assembly line in a futuristic factory (futuristic for 1936), where the actions of every employee are watched on monitors, and where the boss is a little dictator.

It’s a remarkably fun–and funny–film, and the theater was packed. But I had to wonder whether a 2003 audience was going to miss a lot of the historical references. “I wonder how well a movie like Modern Times can be understood in, you know, modern times,” I remark. “With manufacturing going overseas or being computerized, with assembly-line jobs being replaced everywhere by desk jobs, aren’t we losing the movie’s central metaphor–that the working class have all become cogs in the industrial machine?”

“I agree that most kids today have never even seen a cog,” Maltin replies. “If it’s not electronic, it doesn’t exist. . . . That said, I think Modern Times is ageless. I think that funny is funny, and Chaplin always dealt with what I’ll call the human condition because I can’t think of a better phrase, though that one is pretty tired out by now. Chaplin’s comedies built on observations of human nature, and those observations are as valuable and insightful and funny now as they were then, though we might have lost touch with some of the context. It’s a great movie.

“I think the struggle for individuality is ageless, though the particulars may change,” Maltin adds. “There’s an opening scene of people coming up out of a subway exit, and there’s this quick cut making the visual comparison to cattle–or is it pigs?”

We decide it was sheep. Maltin continues, “The point is, you don’t have to have ridden the subway in New York at rush hour to get that gag. But again, being part of a crowd and needing to be an individual is something that all of us deal with in our lives, at one time or another, if not every day of our life.”

“What was Chaplin trying to say about the, uh. . .?”

“The human condition?” laughs Maltin. “I think he was trying to say, ‘Cling to your own individualism. Fight for your own humanity. Don’t allow yourself to become dehumanized, even though it’s going to be a tough fight.’ Chaplin didn’t make light of that struggle. He shows it as a David and Goliath struggle, to not get caught in the wheels, to not be forced into a job that takes your soul and turns you into a drone–or a cog. It’s hard, Chaplin says, but it’s worth it.

“Ultimately, that’s what the film says,” says Maltin. “It’s worth it to fight the machine.”

From the November 6-12, 2003 issue of the North Bay Bohemian.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Y&T

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Rock Solid: Y&T are now sticking to what they do best: live shows.

In Rock They Trust

Y&T beats the odds, reunites for three-night stand

By Greg Cahill

I love this job,” says Y&T guitarist Dave Meniketti, “the live performance, the interaction with the fans, this feeling that is unexplainable to someone in any other job. When you stand up in front of an audience of a couple of thousand people, or even a couple of hundred, and feel the emotion that they’re giving back to you from what they’re getting from you–well, there is no other feeling quite like that.”

It’s been 30 years since Meniketti, bassist Phil Kennemore, and drummer Leonard Haze– Oakland residents at the time, one and all–formed the core of a band inspired by the melodic hard rock of Deep Purple and named after the Beatles Yesterday and Today album (the band shortened its name to Y&T in 1978).

Y&T’s first two albums–1976’s eponymous debut and 1978’s Struck Down, both released on the London label–won kudos for their melodic rock, swaggering confidence, and biting guitar riffs. Sales were slow at first, but on nearly a dozen major label albums released throughout the ’80s and early ’90s, Y&T unapologetically flew in the face of the punk, new wave, and grunge onslaughts to build a rock-solid blue-collar following. Some critics derided Y&T as defiantly unhip–the All Music Guide decried the band as “little more than a blot on the American hard rock canvas.”

But don’t assign Y&T to the heavy metal scrap yard just yet.

After a four-year respite and playing with its original lineup for the first time in 15 years, Y&T is set to perform an unprecedented three-night stand next week at the Mystic Theatre in Petaluma. Even rhythm guitarist Joey Alves, who gave up playing professionally in the late ’80s, will join the band for a couple of songs.

The band’s return is a milestone for a group often portrayed as the Bad News Bears of hard rock. The rap on these big-hair, power-ballad-toting rockers is that Y&T had one of the best live performances around but suffered from bad luck, missed opportunities, and an inability to convey on record the sheer energy of their concerts.

“I’ve heard that assessment for most of my career,” Meniketti says with a laugh, “so it’s not something new to me. And I understand some of that–actually I understand the whole thing, but I don’t necessarily agree with it. When you’re in the studio, there is a whole different energy than when you’re onstage, and it is difficult to capture that on tape. So there is some validity to that criticism.

“And there are breaks and there are breaks. Sometimes there are mistakes made by management or the record label or the band members themselves. And in collaboration with all that happening, you never know how the dice are gonna roll.”

A promoter coaxed Y&T back onstage last November to join Joe Satriani, Journey, and several other ’80s acts at the Chronicle Pavilion. “We were just sort of testing the waters,” says Meniketti, 50, who also fronts his own band, “and when people found out about it things just sort of went crazy. We started getting offers for festivals in Europe and all sorts of gigs. We sat down and evaluated it and said, ‘Yeah, this is fun–let’s keep playing.'”

Earlier this summer, Y&T played the huge Monsters of Rock tour in England, along with former Thin Lizzy guitarist Gary Moore and White Snake. “It was great,” says Meniketti. “It’s always good to play, and it was a real exciting thing for fans to see the band after almost 20 years. And it was equally exciting for us because we knew that fans were anticipating seeing the band again. It made for great performances for us.”

The success of the U.K. tour has ignited interest stateside. “It looks like this could end up being a banner year,” he adds.

Unfettered by the pressure of a recording contract, Y&T now can focus on what they do best–live shows. “It’s funny because we studied that recently,” Meniketti says when asked what distinguishes Y&T in concert. “We realize that we really put a lot of energy into our shows and a lot of passion into our playing. It’s not like nobody else does that but there just seems to be this amazing amount of energy inside of us that’s never left through the years. The intensity has never changed and we really enjoy what we’re doing up there. Lots of bands have that–we just have it in spades.

“I mean, the whole thing about enjoying music is to get out there and play in front of people and get the reaction of the fans. That’s the most exciting part for me, and I sorely missed doing it in a big way like we did in the ’80s. So this past year has been great.

“It feels like we never stopped, really.”

Y&T perform Nov. 14-16 (9pm on Friday and Saturday; 8:30pm on Sunday), at the Mystic Theatre, 21 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma. Tickets are $30. AC/Dshe open the first two nights. 707.765.2121.

From the November 6-12, 2003 issue of the North Bay Bohemian.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Jeanne Sloan

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Photograph by Ed Carter

Color Riot: This ‘güipil’ from the town of Patzun–hand-woven and intricately embroidered with the Mayan calendar–is one of the textiles on display at the Loanna Clark Gallery.

Weaving Sustainability

Jeanne Sloan brings Mayan weavings to Petaluma

By Stephanie Hiller

While Jeanne Sloan was raising her six children in Petaluma over the past 30 years, war in Guatemala raged.

Activists do their work in many different ways, some fighting for myriad causes or umbrella issues–world hunger, civil rights. Others work on issues close to home, while still others choose to fight for human rights for a specific group. For some, there is a life-changing event; for others, the path is chosen at an early age.

Jeanne Sloan’s path to activism began on the first Earth Day in Washington, D.C., in 1970. There, she came to understand the effects that the human way of doing business was having on the environment, and she notes, “I kind of dedicated myself at that time to do what was best for the earth. Ever since then I’ve thought every day, ‘How should I do things, how should I live?'”

Previous to that event, Sloan had worked with the Kushis, founders of the Western macrobiotic movement, during the ’60s, where she became acquainted with another culture and was “just amazed at how different people can be, and that really opened my mind up to the dream we’re living in in the United States.”

Later she joined a Missouri community to attempt self-sufficiency through farming. She gave up her car for a year, just riding a bicycle–in Connecticut in the snow–and raised her children without television. Sloan wanted to go deeper, though. “I still wanted to know how people thought and felt, who were close to the land, who still had a connection with their ancestors, who were living on the line between life and death,” she says.

Sloan’s most recent project, grown out of a life-changing trip to Guatemala, is bringing the fine weaving of the Mayan women weavers to the States to be sold for a price that truly reflects their artistry and value.

To do that, she has given up her house and her car, residing in a space that had once been her art studio in Penngrove, reserving every extra penny for her project. “I don’t want what I wanted before. All I want is another 20 bucks so I can print up more brochures or buy more silk for the weavers.” Sloan’s is a story of fierce determination to equalize her circumstances with those of the poorest people in the world.

In January, 2000, Sloan accompanied Catherine Sagan on a trip to Guatemala to do field work on Sagan’s doctoral dissertation. Sagan had gone to Guatemala in the 1960s as a Catholic religious worker and she says that it “had opened [her] eyes to the stark world of the haves and have nots.”

At that time, the Guatemalan army was going into the villages, claiming the indigenous people were supporting the guerrillas. Whole villages were razed, and people fled for their lives just with the clothes on their back. In 1996 a peace accord was signed.

Sagan decided to return because she “felt it would be interesting to see how the lives of these women had changed after surviving this prolonged civil war in their country.”

The women Sloan and Sagan met in the village of Victoria, in the Ixcan region, had been among those refugees. When they returned to Guatemala, their fertile ancestral lands had new corporate landowners. With the help of religious charities and the United Nations, they were able to buy land, but it was not in the cool mountains of their origin but in the tropics, where the rainforest had once stood. There, topsoil is minimal, and climate change has brought intense weather, where droughts alternate with floods followed by severe erosion. Their drinking water is carried from the river where they wash clothes and where their pigs slosh around. Fuel is in short supply so boiling the water is not an option. Diarrhea is a persistent health problem.

“I went there and met these people, and they became my family,” says Sloan. “I felt I had to contribute to their welfare by setting up a system that is sustainable and that comes out of their way of life.”

The richness of their culture, Sloan saw, is a wealth far exceeding the value of dollars. Their art, like their entire lives, is deeply interwoven with their spirituality; the gods and the ancestors are a constant presence.

Visiting a market, Sloan encountered the beautiful woven fabrics that are made into the traditional güipils (pronounced “wee-peels”) that had been their customary attire in the mountains. She took everything out of her suitcase and filled it with fabrics she had bought.

Sloan met the anthropologist Ed Carter by chance when leaving Guatemala. They traveled together on the bus to the airport, where he talked about his years of work with the Mayan weavers. It was his view that “peace would be restored through advocating for the return of their culture.”

A unique collaboration ensued, and Fire Circle Productions was created. Sloan returned home to work on grant proposals and to find outlets for the brilliantly colored, intricately woven cloths with the intention of marketing these genuine projects for their true value. Carter continued his work creating documentaries about the Guatemalan people.

Since the textiles take two to three months to create, Sloan decided that they should be sold through galleries for several hundred dollars, a price commensurate with the labor and artistry that went into them. She asked everyone she knew to contribute. Lilith Rogers, who met Sloan at the Sitting Room in Cotati, was so inspired by the project that she too began asking friends to write checks so that Sloan could buy more güipils. And then Loanna Clark offered her Petaluma gallery for the first showing, now in progress.

Selling their products to supplement what their husbands earn from farming is giving the women a sense of their own power, said Sagan, and they’re beginning to see the power of their influence, not only on other women, but on their families. “In Guatemala, there is this sense of machismo. The man is considered the most important in the family. But the women have come to appreciate that they really are in charge of raising their children.”

Sloan and Sagan hope to help them create a sustainable lifestyle. “In our complex world, we need to remember the power of the individual to change things,” says Sagan. “If we can make the choice for conscious consumption, rather than going to the mall and buying as much as possible for the lowest price, we can help right the balance.”

Adds Sloan, “Our tool is our money. Money and water flow the same way. And that is why it’s appropriate to bring these things here, to move some of that wealth from where there’s lots of it to where there’s little.

“We’re trying to create a little streamlet in that direction.”

On Nov. 1, the Loanna Clark Gallery will host a reception from 6­9pm, featuring native foods, music, dancing, and the stories of the designs wrought by the Mayan weavers. The show continues through Nov. 30. 21 Kentucky St., Petaluma. 707.762.2133.

From the October 30-November 5, 2003 issue of the North Bay Bohemian.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Timonium

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There Goes the Sun: Bright colors belie the mood conveyed by Timonium’s new release, ‘Until He Finds Us.’

This Is Slowcore?

Gear up for moody fall days with Timonium’s stunning release

By Sara Bir

The term slowcore is another one of those handy but ultimately annoying devices that music fans and critics use as shorthand. And just as with the genre handles of emo, punk, and shoegaze, slowcore is not exactly the most alluring of names. Apparently, slowcore’s tempo is–well, slow–and the range of dynamics it employs lists noticeably to the quiet side.

The L.A.-based band Timonium does require a bit of patience to appreciate, but labeling their output–especially their latest, Until He Finds Us–as slowcore, as a few music critics have done, is unwieldy and inaccurate. Though their music takes place in a world where edges are blurred and volume is subjective, Timonium’s inversion of the pop music equation eventually leads to a liberating musical catharsis unexpected enough to stop time for just a glorious split second.

Timonium was formed in 1994 by guitarist and vocalist Adam Hervey, drummer Adam Garcia, and bassist and vocalist Tracy Uba, who all met in high school. When Hervey departed L.A. to attend Sonoma State University in the mid-’90s, the band turned into a long-distance relationship.

While at SSU, Hervey took money he had made from acting in a Pizza Hut commercial and started a small record label, Pehr (first based in Petaluma, now located in L.A.), which has subsequently released all of Timonium’s recordings. Nearly all of Pehr’s bands (many of which are European or South American) fall into a very specific musical niche, offering minimal to no percussion and dissonant tones galore. That’s right: slowcore. But the main thread is that it’s all very pretty music, the kind of stuff indie filmmakers use to score movies about interpersonal relationships.

Timonium has always been the most accessible of Pehr bands, and Until He Finds Us sees the quartet at a peak (guitarist James Rawson has departed since the album’s recording, and Timonium is once again a trio). Until He Finds Us was recorded at Prairie Sun studios in Cotati last summer, with engineer Gene Cornelius (who has worked with And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Dead, as well as Tom Waits) at the helm.

Toms roll like a distant, muted thunderstorm in the opening measures of “Populations,” the first track, echoing the ominous rumblings in the sky that break in the middle of cloudy afternoons, muzzled and moody.

Timonium is not a sunny-day band. Their previous album Resist Education and the EP Suspende Animation were both studies in subtleties that unwound delicately, weaving drawn-out chords with the hushed vocal trade-offs between Hervey and Uba. On Until He Finds Us, the vocals function more as a centerpiece rather than additional layers of sound, as they did on previous recordings. Uba, who before was primarily on backing vocal duty, sings a lovely, understated lead on the album’s most moving tracks, such as “Across the Footlights.”

One of Timonium’s greatest gifts is their ability to make a profound impact by doing very little. With such sparse pacing and slow-motion guitar chords, when Timonium builds up to a richly colored sonic backdrop in their peak moments, it’s a thrilling revelation, as if it were the first time you’ve heard anything get loud, giving you virgin ears all over again.

By saying that Until He Finds Us is more of a rock record isn’t saying that it rocks, because it does not–and God forbid if it did, anyway. It would be missing all of its ethereal dismalness. But the songs are shorter, more compact, more concrete than previous Timonium efforts.

Until He Finds Us is the perfect rainy-day album, sharing a broken worldview that’s uplifting in its fragility, akin in tone to Nick Cave’s The Boatman’s Call, Bonnie “Prince” Billy’s I See a Darkness, and Sir’s The Night I Met My Second Wife. Indeed, I think these are all breakup albums–or at the very least albums about the human condition’s innate helplessness. Timonium’s whole album wrangles with this, in fact, on both a grand and an intimate level; there has to be some breaking up going on behind all of this.

Even so, Until He Finds Us isn’t just another depressing album; it’s a gorgeous depressing album, beautiful enough to make depression exquisite.

From the October 30-November 5, 2003 issue of the North Bay Bohemian.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Ecco Caffé

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Photograph by Michael Amsler

Artisans of the Bean: Andrew Barnett and Giya Hannigan focus on small-scale production of fine coffees.

The Art of Coffee

Santa Rosa’s Ecco Caffé proves there’s more to coffee than meets the eye (and nose)

By Sara Bir

Bad coffee–diner coffee, served with a greasy heart-attack breakfast, or 7-11 coffee drunk to fuel a road trip–is like Pabst Blue Ribbon. It has its place, but as a pure expression of the integrity of the beverage, it’s . . . well, it’s embarrassing.

Though it seems that everyone drinks coffee, most of us have no idea what we are drinking. When it comes to coffee, people tend to think in terms of light or dark roasts, latte or au lait. There’s no shame in that, though once the politically charged and deeply involved backstory of coffee production is taken into account, it gets pretty mind-boggling; a bean is no longer just a bean. Where was it grown? And, for that matter, how was it grown? Who grew it? How was it roasted, how was it brewed, and who brewed it?

Andrew Barnett is not a man who takes his coffee for granted. Less of a coffee snob than a coffee crusader, Barnett knows where his coffee comes from because, in some cases, he’s actually been to the plantations and met the growers. In a region saturated with coffee roasters, Barnett’s Ecco Caffé has carved out its own diminutive yet distinctive niche for coffees of note that are not just another hoity-toity cup of joe.

Ecco Caffé’s smaller scale is one of the factors that define the company. In a tiny and very tidy warehouse off Sebastopol Road, Ecco Caffé’s two-person team–Andrew Barnett and Giya Hannigan–roasts coffees from around the world in a 35-pound custom-built roaster.

“We’re really a small, artisan boutique roaster,” says Barnett. “And when I say small, during the course of the week, we’ll roast five to six hundred pounds of coffee.” Peet’s Coffee, on the other hand, roasts 4,000 pounds of coffee in an hour–and they’re not even a mega-corporation (yet). “I think in a month, we don’t produce what they produce in an hour. But it’s a different type of business.”

Though trained as a chef, Barnett discovered his passion for coffee while working at an espresso bar as an art major at San Francisco State in the 1970s. From 1994 to 1995, Barnett and Hannigan ran the Western Café in the Railroad Square space that’s currently Flying Goat Coffee.

In 1996 Barnett opened Centro Espresso, the espresso cart in Sawyer’s Newsstand in Santa Rosa, with Susan Hoffman (now Susan Koshow). Centro Espresso and Ecco Caffé–formerly one business–became separate entities in 2002; Koshow now owns Centro Espresso, which serves Ecco Caffé and, to many devoted followers, makes hands-down the best coffee in the North Bay.

With few dreams of getting rich quick–and with the desire to have more control over the coffee they served at Centro–Ecco Caffé began roasting coffee in 2000 to separate the wheat from the chaff, or, shall we say, the bean from the swag. “Coffee has this wonderful aroma, and the smell–people love it, everyone loves coffee,” explains Barnett. “But a lot of times, you drink it and it’s bitter. The aroma’s very inviting, but then you taste it, and it’s ‘why bother?'”

This makes it a challenge to find brewed coffee that tastes like true coffee, and espresso that’s made to be enjoyed for what it is and not just diluted with obscene amounts of milk. “Espresso isn’t a roast; it’s just a method of preparing the coffee.” Barnett is referring to the method of forcing steam through ground medium-roasted beans. “It’s made immediately, and it’s made expressly for your pleasure.

“Coffee has 1,200 different chemical compounds. Through this [espresso] process, you can probably get the most flavors out of it. In this country, it’s kind of a mystery . . . espresso machines are ubiquitous–7-11, McDonald’s–and they’re not that special, but most places you get really awful-tasting espresso. And if you go through Northern Italy, coffee tastes good.”

Barnett should know. He’s been a judge for the World Barista Championships (yes, there is such a thing) in Italy, where coffee culture is treated differently. “A barista is perceived as a culinary artist, like a winemaker. It’s a cool gig, and at a really good espresso bar that’s hopping in Italy, a barista can make $60,000 a year.” Here, the archetypical barista is working at Starbucks to make rent–not as a serious career move.

“With espresso preparation, if you really get it right, and you get the coffee roasted right where the sugars are caramelized, you get a lot of the sweetness,” Barnett says. Coffee is a fruit–the beans come from what is called a cherry–“so a really good coffee cherry that’s been developed right will have a natural sweetness in it. Part of our job as roasters is how do you capture that, because coffee doesn’t have to be this bitter experience. If you were baking cookies, and you get to a point where the cookie’s a golden brown, it’s nice. If you bake it a little longer, it’s a little crisper, a little darker. You keep that cookie in the oven long enough, it’s going to get carbonized.”

Barnett compares that dark, scorched cookie to French roast, the most popular roast in many coffeehouses. “What most people do to compensate for that is to put in a lot of sugar and a lot of milk,” he says.
“I think they’re missing a lot of the really great flavors and nuances in the coffee.”

Ecco Caffé buys a large percentage of its beans from a Sumatran collective that is high in quality and consistent, so customers with larger accounts can have a product that will last their restaurant more than two or three days. “With the smaller estates, there can be more variance . . . but it’s very subtle. How many people can tell the difference?”

Not me, for one. We taste four coffees, brewed in French presses, from four different small estates in Guatemala and Sumatra, and while they all have their own quirks and flavor profiles, they pretty much all taste like really, really good coffee to my untrained mouth. It’s unusual to taste coffees as if you were tasting wine–that is, tasting critically instead of sipping and swallowing and thinking, “Gosh, that’s nice.” These samples are full of lively acidity, fruity and fresh.

Barnett notes that “coffee from India, coffee from Brazil, coffee from Sumatra–they each have different flavors, and if you go to different regions within the country, there are completely different flavor profiles. If you go into a coffee shop to buy a pound of coffee and you say, ‘I want a pound of Sumatra,’ that’s great . . . but if someone went into a wine shop and said, ‘Give me a bottle of your California wine,’ there would be so many.”

One of the programs to increase awareness of outstanding individual coffee estates is Cup of Excellence, a strict competition begun by Brazilian farmers to recognize the best coffees. Cup of Excellence now has competitions in Nicaragua, El Salvador, Brazil, and Guatemala. Last year, Brazil’s winning coffee commanded $12 a pound. Earlier this month, Barnett went to Brazil to be a judge in the 2003 Cup of Excellence.

Cup of Excellence helps to bring growers the money they deserve, which is difficult in the present international coffee industry. “In the world market right now, coffee prices are lower than they were 40 years ago. In 1935, the price for coffee on the world market was 35 cents a pound. Now, 70 years later, it’s 63 cents a pound. There’s a glut, overproduction,” says Barnett.

One of the solutions to the crisis for growers is fair trade. Fair Trade­certified importers pay a premium to growers. “They pay almost double, so that money’s going directly to the farmers.” Ecco Caffé sells several Fair Trade coffees, as well as shade grown, organic, and conventional beans.

Because of their size, Ecco Caffé can buy three bags of coffee–several hundred pounds–from a small family farm with the Cup of Excellence designation, while a larger company couldn’t even fill half the cracks in their warehouse floor with that amount of beans. “I think Peet’s buys great coffees. I think that’s what separates them from other companies in the specialty coffee market,” says Barnett. “But a company like ours can cherry-pick–five bags of this and five bags of that.”

Barnett and Hannigan aren’t in production to change the world, although they try to do their part to support their growers. They are in the business to offer high-quality, locally produced coffee. Says Barnett, “there are a lot of people who, when you think of coffee, you think of Starbuck’s– the same way when you think of tissue, you think of Kleenex. We’re just trying to offer alternative choices and flavors.”

Ecco Caffè beans are available for retail sale at Centro Espresso (in Sawyer’s News, 733 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707.542.7449); Traverso’s (106 B St., Santa Rosa, 707.542.2530); Oakville Grocery (7856 St. Helena Hwy., Oakville, 707.944.8802 and 124 Matheson St., Healdsburg, 707.433.3200); and at the San Francisco Farmer’s Market at the Ferry Plaza in San Francisco.

From the October 30-November 5, 2003 issue of the North Bay Bohemian.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

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