Two-Wheeled Transport

11.07.07

A couple of weeks ago, I found myself confused by the acronym DIY. The fact that it appeared in reference to one of my own articles did nothing to clarify matters. I puzzled over this for some time. Dogs in Yard? Drinking in Yurts? Clearly not cool enough to understand hip acronyms, it wasn’t until I visited Community Bikes on Sebastopol Road in Santa Rosa and saw their bulletin board that I finally got it. A sign there reads, “DIY—Fix a Bike,” and at last the words fell into place.

Obviously, I’m not much of a punk rocker or a do-it-yourself kind of gal. Not that I don’t try; it’s just that my efforts never seem to amount to much. I can’t cut straight, I can’t sew, I can’t draw, paint or grow things, and I definitely cannot fix a bike.

There is one thing I can do, however: imagine things. I can imagine myself with a bike. A pink German beauty of a road bike, to be precise, with a white seat covered in daisies and a bell on the handlebars. One of the volunteers at Community Bikes is currently working on what I quickly begin to think of as “my” bike, the Pink German Beauty.

My PGB, once a rigorous check-list of repairs have been meticulously executed, will join the others at the front of the patched-together building that serves as headquarters, volunteer center, donation station and repair shop for the nonprofit Community Bikes. There my Pink German Beauty will sit until it is sadly snatched out of the row by some other discerning individual with more money than I.

LITE Initiatives, Community Bikes’ mother ship, was founded in 2000 by Sammy Nasr and Portia Sinnott as a way of promoting and supporting communities to live “lightly and more efficiently.” Nasr and I recently met at Community Bikes so he could give me a tour and tell me about this fantastic little rustic shop where people donate hours of their time to taking apart, repairing and teaching others to fix their own bikes.

Nasr stresses the fact that Community Bikes is not a place where others will fix your bike for you; this is a place where volunteers will help you to DIY. The walls are lined with boxes and boxes of well-organized bike parts; just about anything a bike enthusiast could need is available, including spare helmets, extra water bottles and lots of tools and devices that look very important.

Like a bicycle, LITE Initiatives is made up of a number of spokes. Each of these spokes is an endeavor meant to inspire public awareness, car-lite behavior, do-it-yourself capabilities and zero-waste activism. When we meet, Nasr tells me that he and Sinnott have shared a car for years (they live five miles apart), and that it was their car-sharing that initially inspired them to start the nonprofit.

Bicycling can be liberating, Nasr tells me, a way to feel empowered, healthy and strong. Though he puts in over 20 hours a week just to keep the nonprofit running, he is in love with the work, and this love shows not just in the welcoming atmosphere of the place, but in the sheer, impressive nature of this selfless endeavor.

The bikes for sale may not be shiny, they may not meet conventional standards of beauty, but they are quality bikes just the same. Nasr assures me that nonquality donations, of which there are many, never make it into the lineup. What he terms “department store” bikes will be scrapped for a small fee of $10. All other bicycle and part donations are welcomed and painstakingly rehabilitated.

I speak briefly with the volunteer who is working on my Pink German Beauty. He tells me that he spends about 12 hours a week at Community Bikes doing exactly what he is doing now: making sure that every bike, not just mine, is safe, oiled and running smoothly. I admire his handiwork, and run my hand over the shiny chrome thing that is covering the front tire.

In order to give the appearance of a purpose other than just staring at my PGB, I ask a vague question about bicycling. What’s with the clip-on shoes? Am I the only one who gets freaked out by that? I’m assured that though this method of riding does serve a purpose, clip-on shoes are not necessary for the kind of riding I will probably be doing on my PGB.

As I’m leaving, I pause to scan the bulletin board one more time. My eyes land on a “We Need You” list: bike repairing, fundraising, hosting workshops and donating time and work on graphics, videos and the website—almost anything DYI. I wonder if writing articles counts. From deep within, I can feel my inner barterer begin to stir. Pink German beauty, you will be mine. Oh yes, you will be mine.

Community Bikes is open for donations, sales and volunteers, on Thursdays from 5pm to 9pm, and on Sundays, from 1pm to 5pm. 4009 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa. For more information, call 707.579.5811. For bicycle safety tips and to find out about street skills seminars in Sonoma County, go to the www.bikesonoma.org; in Marin County, check out www.bikemarin.org. In Napa, the Napa Bike Coalition is supported by the Eagle Cycling Club, www.eaglecyclingclub.org.


Sleeper Cells

11.07.07

It had to be proven to me that something was going on with my body,” says Sacramento resident Kelly Simpson, even though she came of age aware there was such as thing as Fabry disease. An uncle died of the rare disorder when she was a teen, and she says, “I grew up knowing my brother had this thing and knowing that I might be a carrier.” But she wasn’t ready to confront it within her own metabolism.

Still, the signs were there—pain in her hands and feet, elevated levels of protein in her urine, heart palpitations—and she eventually agreed to medical monitoring of her kidney and heart functions. “There was just a slight decline,” the 40-year-old mother of five recalls, “but enough so that in my mind, I knew that I needed to do something.”

Officially diagnosed in 2002, while pregnant with her youngest, Simpson began getting treatment for the disease 18 months ago, bi-weekly enzyme infusion sessions that keep her symptoms at bay.

Simpson is also keeping a watchful eye on her 10-year-old daughter, Brittany, who has also tested positive for Fabry, the first confirmation that this little-known disease has passed to yet another generation in her family. “If she complains of any of the symptoms,” Simpson says, “then we’ll talk to the doctor.”

First identified by doctors in Europe almost 110 years ago, Fabry is caused by an abnormal gene on the X chromosome that governs the production of a key enzyme, alpha-GAL That’s an important little protein, because its job is to break down a fatty substance known as GL-3, which otherwise builds up in the cells of the heart, kidney, brain and skin, causing damage and decreased function in one or more of those organs.

Fabry is believed to affect somewhere between one in 40,000 and one in 117,000 patients, but some who work closely with the disease suspect those numbers are low. “It could be underdiagnosed,” says Cindy Johnston, a genetic counselor at UCSF, “because in females, the clinical manifestations are not so severe. So those patients may not come to the attention of medical professionals.”

Women, with an additional X chromosome, often have less severe symptoms and higher levels of the alpha-GAL enzyme, and until recently, were thought to be only carriers for the defective gene, as Simpson was told. But for men, Fabry is a slow-release poison, gradually unleashing a veritable Swiss Army knife of pain and problems.

Corrine Casey, a Santa Rosa mortgage broker who asked that her real name not be used, has watched her brother Ed wrestle with a dizzying array of medical issues for years. “The symptoms he has include body pain, fatigue, some kidney problems,” Casey lists. She continues, “He doesn’t sweat, he has an intolerance to heat, he’s got some cardiac problems, he has a particular distinctive rash around his navel [which is common for Fabry], he has a problem with his hands and feet—itching, burning and swelling, which is also common—and he has chronic depression.”

When the family heard of Fabry on a cable TV medical show and asked Ed’s doctor about it, the physician “basically told him he was gonna die and the only way he could be saved was with a kidney transplant,” Casey recounts, “neither of which are true.”

She can say that now because she plunged into researching Fabry herself, digging through Internet sites to confirm and expand what they knew about the disorder. And in doing so, Casey made another discovery: “As I read the list of symptoms, I recognized myself.”

But she also learned there is a treatment available. At the UCSF-Stanford Lysosomal Disease Center, about two dozen patients make regular visits for enzyme replacement therapy that uses a synthetic version of the defective enzyme “which we can infuse into our patients every other week,” says genetic counselor Johnston. Accomplished through an IV drip, that process can take anywhere from two to eight hours per visit. “Basically, you sit there in a chair for however long it takes,” Simpson says.

Qualifying for the costly therapy can be even more daunting. Getting a confirmed Fabry diagnosis requires both blood and DNA tests, and HMO doctors who are unfamiliar with the disease are too often unwilling to order those screening tests.

“But without the testing, without the diagnosis, without the enzyme replacement therapy, people don’t have a chance,” Casey says grimly. “Men will typically die by the time they’re 51.”

Her laywoman’s prescription?

“You have to fight for yourself. You have to go and do the research yourself. You have to educate your doctor yourself. You have to insist on the tests,” she asserts. “As a patient, you have got to become an expert.

“Because your doctor is not gonna do it.”


Letters to the Editor

11.07.07

Bye-Bye Byrne

I just wanted to wish Peter Byrne good luck on his book (“Later Alligators,” the Byrne Report, Oct. 31) and finally let him know that I consider him one of the finest investigative reporters in what is left of this good old U.S.A. I have been a fan of Byrne’s for a long time, and he is the main reason why I seek out the Bohemian. I will miss Byrne and will look forward to his book. He’s a gutsy genius! Stay in touch. Thanks to him for all his efforts.

Dennis Sala , Santa Rosa

State of Journalism, wot-wot

Just wanted you to know how much Peter Byrne will be missed. I’m only sorry I didn’t write before, now that he’s taking a leave. We’ll just wish him well, look forward to a fascinating book and await his return.

The state of journalism in this country has degraded to the point where very few are actually practicing the real craft. And Mr. Byrne is one of the few really good ones out there. I’ve saved many of his articles because they are just so damn good.

Thanks for giving him a home in your publication.

Ann Kennedy , Santa Rosa

Free to Be You and Me

Very intrigued by Peter Byrne’s assignment by the American Institute of Physics to write a bio of Hugh Everett, the “many worlds” theorist whose ideas, with impeccable mathematical support, have seemingly solved physics’ quantum indeterminacy problem. I’m no physicist or mathematician, but would view with glee any well-founded theory that (a) supported Einstein’s dogged assertion that nothing in the cosmos behaves randomly and (b) puts all those “free will” folks—including many Heisenberg-enthralled physicists—down several pegs. It may well turn out that the teeny tiny quanta don’t actually run around randomly, “freely,” after all, ho ho, but live and have their being in an orderly way, even as you and I.

(Strange that randomness should be pointed to as proof of freedom of will. Would we want to live in a truly “free” universe? I think not. I think what each of us wants is freedom for me to do as I desire or “will,” but everybody else had better behave as I expect them to lest their freedom impinge upon mine. In other words, a standard infantile fantasy.)

Constant reader Don Macqueen, Santa Rosa

Dissing Day of the Dead?

The current focus on the Mexican holiday of the Day of the Dead is curious (“Skeleton Crew,” Oct.24). Several years back, I was fortunate to witness this holiday in Tzintzuntzan Michoacan and I was deeply moved by the ritual. The North Bay version of this ancient celebration accentuates the most superficial aspects (sugar skulls, storytelling, etc.) while ignoring the central ritual. The whole point of the holiday is to spend the whole night around the graves of your ancestors. The cemeteries in Mexico are lit up with candles, and the graves are covered with marigolds. People sing and chant, eat and drink, socialize and commune with their ancestors’ spirits. Perhaps our culture’s fear of death influences the skewing of this holiday.

Andrew Haynes, Petaluma


Heritage for the Holidays

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11.07.07

Splitting his time between Guerneville and Manhattan, acclaimed consultant Clark Wolf graces these pages with the occasional diatribe from the periodic local.

It’s hard to believe and kind of a giggle to learn that Laura Chenel, our local and national queen of all things goat cheese, once worked at her parent’s Sebastopol eatery, Goobler’s Roosterant. They had a farm where they raised the all-American bird, so naturally a cafe followed. Truth is, the North Bay has for years been Turkey Central.

In certain circles, Petaluma has long been known as “the birth place of bird propagation,” in no small part due to the efforts of one George Nicholas who turned a “mutant” (genetic accident) single white turkey into a broad-breasted juggernaut. This post-’50s embrace of all things technical was built on a long, solid history of chicken and egg production (about which there is no question of order). Even more than Colorado has been known for lamb, the North Bay region has long been lousy with birds. Squab, quail, duck, even geese have all been waddling toward our dinner tables from in and all around what the Miwok Indians referred to as “flat back hills” (pe’ta: “flat”; lu’ma: “back”), those lovely soft rises in the open valley.

As words like “heritage,” “artisan” and “heirloom” have become more popular over the last few years, so too have birds with meat of deeper flavor and hue. Me, I’m a dark-meat boy from way back, so the transition to what is now more commonly called a “heritage” turkey has been easy and pleasant. More flavor than that dry, nasty white blob of butterball seems like the way to go. (If it’s plastic and it pops out of my food, then it’s simply not my food.) That said, I have fond college-day memories of Turkey Wing Thursdays at Berkeley’s Brennan’s Cafeteria, when not much money would get you a whole lot of chew and a side of messy mashed potatoes and gravy.

Recently I had the pleasure of visiting Santa Rosa’s Shone Farm to join in a Slow Food event supporting a local 4-H project raising heritage turkey breeds for holiday slaughter. Our meal was delicious and dear, the farm was beautiful and the 4-H-ers looked surprisingly like skateboarders in farm drag. All worlds happily met to do good and eat well.

It got me thinking about how innovation and advancement can come full circle. Here we were near the home of modern, mass and mediocre bird “production” (such a cold, distancing term), gathering with fresh-faced youths working to restore traditional husbandry to provide for classic American meals long associated with family celebration.

In one of the historical references I recently perused, the excited ad language for the newly mass-produced turkey went something like, “and made formerly expensive birds, once only reserved for special occasions, available every day at low, low prices!”

As a first-generation immigrant well on my way to weeping at a good tissue commercial, nearly every meal is a serious celebration for me. In fact, in many cultures and countless religious permutations, the blessing at mealtime, while often vestigial or rote, really does have meaning. Every meal truly is a gift. Food ought to be of gift and celebration-caliber, in some way, as often as possible. That’s a huge part of what people the world over still comfortably think of as the American dream. Anyway, it’s the one I dream.

Thanksgiving harvest time has always been an opportunity to appreciate the bounty new generations are just now beginning to realize might easily slip away. Getting back to basics—a turkey that can actually run around, hunt and peck, make a little whoopee and sow some new chicks—seems a particularly fitting piece of the puzzle.

Believe me, I have no trouble with the notion of free-spirited innovation, especially where it can help bring good, nourishing food to more folks everywhere. But when the end result rushes headlong toward a water-and-chemicals-pumped turkey “roll,” I’m delighted to see food and fashion swing another way.

Stewardship of our Eden, marshalling of our creative forces and individual talents requires a thoughtful balance between independent thinking and community good. Nowhere is this more obvious or critical than with food; it’s why GMOs are such a hot topic. It may be fine to fiddle with your own peaches, but not if it leads to cross-pollination that wafts across the fence and forever changes your neighbor’s fruit. Sometimes what’s called being independent is just a cover for good old-fashioned selfishness. There, I’ve said it.

So this holiday season, bust the bank and sport for a heritage bird or two. Support a trajectory that, like our beloved tomato, probably originated in what is now Mexico and Central America, went to Europe with the Spanish explorers, then came back via our East Coast settlers (yes, those nattily dressed Pilgrims most likely had turkeys on board) to become what Benjamin Franklin wanted to declare our national bird.

Chow down on a Bourbon Red, Narragansett, a juicy Slate, Standard Bronze, Jersey Buff or Black Spanish, if you can get your hands on one. Order early and pay a premium. Consider it an investment in our future while we celebrate our past.

Clark Wolf is the president of the Clark Wolf Company, specializing in food, restaurant and hospitality consulting.

The Slow Food Russian River chapter facilitates heritage turkey sales this holiday at $7.50 a pound; pickup is in Petaluma. For details, go to www.slowfoodrr.org or call 707.480.0379 or 707.526.2922. Liz Cunninghame of Clark Summit Farm out in Tomales also sells heritage turkeys, but at press time, she’d been sold-out for three full months. To get on next year’s list, write to her at cl*************@*ol.com. Also, Mollie Stone’s markets often carry Mary’s Heritage Turkeys, animals raised free-range in Fresno. Two locations in the North Bay: 100 Harbor Drive, Sausalito; 415.331.6900; and 270 Bon Air Shopping Center, Greenbrae; 415.461.1164.

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Saint Elsewhere

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MAESTRO DI CUCINA: Chef Dino Bugica of Santi.

The population of Geyserville is 2,100 souls, give or take various seasonal winery workers or the random off-the-grid types drawn to this bucolic northern Sonoma County burg where, if one sneezes while driving into its downtown, one can miss the entire expanse of a dozen shops, the fire station and post office.

Except after 5:30pm on Friday and Saturday nights, when the numbers swell to 2,500 or more.

As the dinner hour beckons, limousines pull up in front of Taverna Santi on the main street, unloading resort-garbed visitors with faces flushed from daylong winetastings. Shiny SUVs and carefully scrubbed pickup trucks navigate parking spaces for their occupants, well-heeled locals who’ve traded their rumpled vineyard workaday dungarees for pressed jeans, polished cowboy boots and designer fleece. Rental cars crawl in, carrying tourists who’ve trekked from as far away as San Francisco and now peer cautiously out of their vehicle windows, wondering if the small metal sign cut with a filigree rooster is the beacon they’re looking for.

By 5:45pm, there’s a crush of hungry bodies spilling out of Santi’s front door up and down the narrow sidewalk, lining up for a seat at one of the white cloth-covered tables within.

Most are savvy enough to have made reservations far in advance, and are quickly led to tables in the two dining rooms of rustic exposed brick and buttery lemon painted walls; enough others are hoping to score last-minute space at the small bar or half-dozen communal “travelers tables” in the entry that it’s a push to make it through the throng to the hostess stand.

Whoever they are, however they got here, they’ve come for handmade, authentic Old World Italian fare, celebrating seasonal, local ingredients so fresh that produce and herbs are plucked, as much as a tiny and unpredictable harvest allows, from a small garden banking the trellised patio out back of the restaurant. They’ve made a pilgrimage for founding chef Franco Dunn and executive chef Dino Bugica’s pan-roasted pork tenderloin with slow-roasted pork belly, sautéed broccolini and potato purée in pork jus; house-made beef tripe braised with borlotti beans and garlic fettunta; and the daily cornucopia of handcrafted pastas, olives, salumi, sausages, gelato and even liqueurs that hold true to painstaking European artisan style.

They’re here for a wine list of almost 200 coveted selections from the boutique vineyards of the surrounding Alexander, Dry Creek and Russian River valleys. Many guests are winemakers themselves, a who’s who of the industry that have made a favorite of the rustic taverna as much for a casual meal of lasagna with Calabrian meatballs as for a complicated breasola decorated with Black Mission figs, Moliterno cheese, arugula and white truffle oil.

As the dining rooms bulge with glowing guests and the cash register rings up easy tabs of $75 per person, Santi—which means “saint” in Italian—appears a seamless, obvious success, effortless in its rustic-chic charm.

Yet for owner Doug Swett, it’s been a calculated acquisition of an enormously labor-intensive operation, and the slow but ceaseless grooming of its growth from a simple out-of-the-way cafe to a world-class destination.

Swett, who grew up in Sonoma and worked in various wine country resort restaurants, had recently returned to the county after seven years enmeshed in the Wolfgang Puck empire as manager of its portfolio of Italian eateries. After opening an eighth restaurant in Los Angeles, “It was time to come home,” Swett says matter-of-factly. “I missed Sonoma.”

When Santi first opened in 2000, it was as a joint venture by two former winery chefs with a dream, Thomas Oden and Franco Dunn. By 2001, their fledgling business crippled from 9-11, the chefs found little joy in the daily running of a restaurant and wanted to focus on their cooking. Swett saw a remarkable opportunity in the rough, and jumped at the offer to become general manager.

“Financially, [Santi] was severely hit by [the Sept. 11 attacks] and never fully recovered,” Swett explains. “The reputation locally was solid but not spectacular, and there were clearly things that had to be fixed. It became obvious that the set-up they had established was not going to work.”

In early 2005, he bought out the owners, retaining Dunn, as chef emeritus, and the 28-year-old, up-and-coming executive chef Dino Bugica, who joined the team in 2003.

As his first course of business, Swett invested in the chefs’ talents. Both are classic, Italian-trained artists of a peasant palate that relies on humble meats, obscure items like black cabbage and chestnuts, young chickens cooked under bricks, rough ragus slow-cooked to savory velvet and sumptuous exclamations like toasted anise shortbread under sambuca-infused whipped cream. So Swett sends them to Italy several times a year to refresh and expand upon their skills.

“Any restaurant is a risk, but this was definitely a calculated one,” he says of his leap of faith. “I felt like the food needed to come up a notch, and there had to be a better business plan and model in place, but ultimately it had a good chance of succeeding.”

He gradually changed the menu from being relatively fixed to changing every several weeks to being updated daily and fancied with an elaborate slew of specials fed by local farmers, the seasons and the traditions of the Italian culinary calendar.

He elaborated on the established seasonal tasting menus and added winemaker dinners plus a wildly popular Wednesday locals night, featuring dinners like succulent herb-roasted leg of lamb, Sicilian meatballs and mashed potatoes, or pork cotelletta with corn and sweet onions for a reasonable $18, including a house salad of local greens. He rounded out the in-house banquet functions with a full-service catering department, and began stocking Santi’s signature sausages, homemade spice rubs, barbecue sauce and other specialties for sale at Healdsburg’s Saturday morning farmers market.

Last summer, he added live jazz performances on the patio Sundays through the warm months. This January, he introduced the Supper Club, offering family-style communal dinners the last Sunday of each month, and in March began lunch service Wednesday through Friday.

Swett is the first to admit that it’s been a battle; he jokingly describes Santi to a visitor as being an “albatross around my neck,” but it looks like it’s paid off.

At a recent dinner, Swett greets a guest with a proud display of the oversized portrait of a bar scene that hangs on the wall next to the host stand. It’s an ancient shot of Catelli’s the Rex, a bar that for decades occupied the 1902 building that now houses Santi. Dusty and sun-worn, wearing overalls and broad brimmed hats, happy imbibers smile at the camera. The bartender serving them, long-retired and now in his 90s, remains a regular and holds court at a big, curved booth just inside the restaurant’s weathered wooden doors.

I have foolishly arrived without a reservation, and no private tables are available, but space is made at a travelers table, sharing with two other patrons what turns out to be a lovely evening of conversation and camaraderie.

The waiter lauds the oft-requested moscardini con patate as “amazing,” and he’s right. A quartet of whole baby octopus lie like cartoon dolls in the dish, deeply purple and likely having met their demise from being massaged to death by chef Bugica. Braised in red wine with tomato, garlic, black olives, herbs and diced potato, their juices soak into grilled crostone for a crunchy sog of salty tartness, gently chewy tentacles and buttery body.

The rest of the meal comes from the evening’s specials, and they shine as some of the finest Italian food to be found in northern California. Aromas of fresh earth and ocean waft from a hot cast-iron skillet glistening with silvery house-cured anchovy fillets, sharply tart roasted gypsy peppers, caramelized cauliflower and a thick mantle of toasted breadcrumbs. Monkfish is prepared osso bucco style (bone-in and braised) with finely diced tomato, battuta (typically onion-garlic-fatback), white wine and herbs over potato risotto (the little cubes cooked to beguiling silk in cream) sprinkled in an unexpected accent of pomegranate seeds. A fat slab of monkfish liver shimmers atop in a decadent display of pumpkin-colored organ meat.

The chefs make their own gnocchi, and tonight the tiny velvety dumplings come layered with chanterelles, crimini, porcini, oyster mushrooms and a dusky confit of duck hearts and gizzards bathed in a richly aromatic broth.

Desserts are equally sublime, with a Meyer lemon tart like a small slab of pie with its soft, toasted pine-nut crust, dollop of unsweetened cream and shock of tiny sweet-tart huckleberries in thick purple syrup. A slippery round of silky panna cotta studded with almonds arrives smothered in Black Mission figs from Santi’s garden.

Santi “is finally achieving what it’s potential always had,” Swett says, and it’s time for him to turn his attention to something new. In January, he will take another gamble on Geyserville, with the opening of Diavola in the former Geyser Smokehouse just a few doors down. It will be another homecoming of sorts, with Bugica in charge of the kitchen and Oden returning as an investor in the new LLC.

The trattoria will be more casual, set amid aged brick walls and rustic wooden floors and focusing on Bugica’s artisan wood-oven-baked thin-crust pizzas, simple roasts such as porchetta and quick bites like sautéed peppers. A small retail counter will offer house-cured meats and salumi, breads, soups, salads and cheeses.

Tonight, meanwhile, the population surge lasts until about 10pm, when—poof!—the sojourners disappear, the streetlights click off and the town slides back into its dusty slumber. The limos are gone; the tiny lot across the street will re-open in the morning, offering its shiny red and green tractors for sale, and the mercantile will sell its paint, hardware and fencing supplies.

And behind the rugged, terra cotta walls of Santi, Swett, Dunn, Bugica and crew will be quietly working their magic to bring it all to life again less than 24 hours later.

Taverna Santi

Address: 21047 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville

Hours: Open for lunch, Wednesday–Friday, 11:30am–2pm; dinner, Monday–Saturday, 5:30–9pm; Sunday, 5–9pm.



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Lyrics Born

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10.31.07

The world of rock and roll is (you should pardon the term) studded with gifted visionaries and/or obsessive egomaniacs who not only write songs and sing them, but also play several instruments and produce the sessions, too. This article isn’t about them.

No, our purpose here is to celebrate the specialists who deal exclusively with words, whose lyric vision complements their colleagues’ instrumental and melodic talents so aptly that they blend into a seamless, holistic creative merging.

In the broader world of popular music, it’s easy enough to find such precedents as Ira Gershwin, Oscar Hammerstein or W. S. Gilbert, but among rockers, the prototype for these rare writers has to be Keith Reid, without whom Procul Harum would never have “tripped the light fandango.”

Although he never appeared onstage with the band and never played a note on any of their albums, Reid has been a full-fledged member of Procul Harum since the band’s inception (an early press release described the group as “five musicians and a poet-in-residence”). He provided the lyrics to all of their original material (save a pair of instrumentals, naturally), and is usually simply credited with contributing “words.”

Reid’s writing is evocative and often surreal in its imagery, a curious vehicle for the richly authoritative vocal stylings of Gary Brooker, Procul’s pianist and primary composer. Reid also co-wrote fairly often with guitarist Robin Trower, more extensively after he went solo. The Brooker-Reid partnership has endured for 40-plus years, and their early chart-topping collaboration “A Whiter Shade of Pale” may be the most widely covered English pop song not written by a Beatle.

Pete Brown was already a published poet in 1966 when he was recruited to try writing songs with Ginger Baker, who was trying to come up with original material for a new blues-rock trio he was part of called Cream. The two never clicked, but Brown unexpectedly found a strong creative rapport with the band’s bass player. (Ironically, Bruce’s wife, Janet, proved a more successful collaborator with Baker.)

Brown’s partnership with Jack Bruce not only generated some of Cream’s best-known songs (“White Room,” “I Feel Free,” “Politician” and, with Eric Clapton, “Sunshine of Your Love”), but also provided material for most of Bruce’s post-Cream recordings. Interestingly, at least for the purposes of this article, when Bruce and Robin Trower teamed up for the 1981 album, Truce it featured songs by both Bruce/Brown and Trower/Reid.

Pete Sinfield was a founding member of King Crimson—he also came up with the name—having been in earlier bands with co-founder Ian McDonald. He soon found his musical abilities eclipsed by others in the group, but Sinfield’s literary gifts ensured his continued participation through their first four albums, most conspicuously on the King Crimson debut, In the Court of the Crimson King.

Following a falling out with guitarist Robert Fripp, Sinfield began working with former band-mate Greg Lake who had moved on to form Emerson, Lake & Palmer. He provided lyrics for Lake’s “I Believe in Father Christmas” and numerous other ELP tracks, as well as co-writing with ltalian prog-rockers PFM, who were also signed to ELP’s vanity label, Manticore. Sinfield also mustered a obscure 1971 solo disc, Still, which he has recently reissued.

Renaissance was a capable, moderately successful progressive rock ensemble from the same era, perhaps most noteworthy for the blissfully assertive vocals of Annie Haslam. But it was another woman, Betty Thatcher, who provided their lyrics. In an unusual process, composers Jim McCarty (the former Yardbird) and later, Michael Dunford, would send Thatcher their music on tapes and lead sheets, and she would compose lyrics to fit and mail them back to the band.

Finally, on this side of the Atlantic, we come to Robert Hunter, who became Jerry Garcia’s primary lyric collaborator, although he wrote with other members of the Grateful Dead as well. From “Dark Star” to “Touch of Grey,” he provided the words for many of the Dead’s best-loved songs, including the signature phrase “What a long, strange trip it’s been.” Although Hunter performed with some early incarnations of the Dead (he was also briefly part of New Riders of the Purple Sage), that did not carry over into the band’s heyday. However, Dead members are prominently featured on Hunter’s several solo discs.

In subsequent years, the path these pioneers carved out was followed by the likes of Bernie Taupin and Tim Rice. But we mustn’t hold that against them.


Hoods

10.31.07

WHEN The Godfather commenced with the phrase “I believe in America,” Francis Coppola wanted us to understand the part America had in the creation of a gangster. It was a shocking idea, and equally shocking was the insistence that a gangster could be just a good family man in a bad line of work. Thirty years later, the critique is stale. Someone approaching that idea—especially by stating it as boldly and flatly as it is in the title American Gangster—had better come up with a new angle. Don’t look for one here. American Gangster is based on the true story of Frank Lucas (Denzel Washington), the black Harlem drug runner who decided to contract with the Golden Triangle’s poppy lords. When cheap and relatively pure heroin plagued Harlem, the crooked NYPD stood aside and took its cut—thus the birth of the DEA. It is the opening salvo of a drug war that’s no one’s idea of a triumph at this point, not even director Ridley Scott’s. The hard work of being a drug cop is all vanity. We can see that from the sorrows of the honest cop Richie Roberts (Russell Crowe) when he gets appointed to the task. Crowe doesn’t bring more to this part than a saintly wounded quality.

A bad gangster movie is more entertaining than other kinds of films, and I probably wouldn’t switch American Gangster off if it were on TV. Marc Jacobson, whose excellent New York profile served as the source for the film, described talking to Lucas as “a season of the Black Sopranos.” On TV, this lengthy, lard-butted opus might seem a little less full of lukewarm air. But as directed by Scott, the film mistakes hastily set-up shots for pace. One can count on every juicy bit of supporting cast being evicted from the film. Not enough of Clarence Williams III’s Bumpy Johnson, kvetching about the superstores to come; not enough Kevin Corrigan as a greasy weasel, way too much of Josh Brolin doing a credible if inferior imitation of the big-mustached Nick Nolte in Sidney Lumet’s Q&A.

There is no central woman to light up the film. As Frank’s wife, Lymari Nadal, making the least auspicious debut in a long time, plays a former Miss Puerto Rico as if she were cast because she was a former Miss Puerto Rico. Richie’s bimbos (“Fuck me like a cop!”) almost have no faces; the other women are naked heroin packagers or vindictive ex-wives. In the most unedifying role, Carla Gugino threatens her Jewish ex-husband Richie with the hell-fire he probably wouldn’t believe in, anyway.

Scott tries to reprise the theme of The Godfather: success in America depends on the strength of one’s family, and unfortunately most families have weak links. In real life, Frank was his own family’s weak link, if you count how many of his brothers went to jail. The point Washington stresses, with his dogged, staid performance, is that Lucas could have been any other kind of driven businessman. Eventually, there’s a point where a gangster movie becomes a knock-off of an Arthur Miller play.

AMERICAN GANGSTER (R; 157 min.), directed by Ridley Scott, written by Steven Zaillian, photographed by Harris Savides and starring Denzel Washington and Russell Crowe, opens Nov. 2 valleywide.


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Prisoners’ Progress

10.31.07


In 1996, when a jury convicted Jay Ly for manslaughter related to road rage, the judge ordered him to pay $3,500 for the funeral of the person he had killed. For a moment, Ly was shocked. “And I thought, ‘Oh, shoot—funeral,'” he says. “It had never occurred to me that there was a funeral.”

It wasn’t that Ly, then an 18-year-old Asian gangbanger from Southern California, didn’t know that he had killed someone. It was just that he had never thought about the consequences of his crime all the way through until that moment in the courtroom. He had never before considered the funeral and the grieving families and the loss that were caused by his actions. “Those thoughts had never been mentioned to me, and I never would have learned them if the judge hadn’t said that,” he says now.

It wasn’t until toward the end of Ly’s 10-year sentence, half of which was spent in Marin County’s San Quentin State Prison, that he continued the spark of deeper thinking he had started that day in the courtroom. He began taking classes at the Prison University Project at San Quentin.

Prior to the classes, even after five years of prison, Ly describes himself as being a bit of a hothead. When he first got to San Quentin in 2001, he almost started a riot against white inmates, but another prisoner stopped it at the last minute. Then he started hearing about the university, where inmates could take classes in everything from math to Spanish to philosophy.

“A couple of guys, Eddie and another guy, Mike, had all these books and were doing speeches and stuff, and they would come to my cell and say, ‘Hey, man,’ and would talk to me,” he recalls. “They were always talking about school and stuff and I was like, ‘Yeah cool, whatever,’ you know. But then the spring semester came and I took some courses.”

Over time, the classes began to work their way into Ly’s spirit. In his ethics class, reading Plato and Locke and other philosophers, he started looking at the world in new ways. He began to think critically, to reason, to question. And like that moment in the courtroom, he began to feel empathy for the world around him. “I would be in class and go, ‘Oh shoot, I never thought of it that way before,'” he says. “I was even a vegetarian for a while because I felt so bad for eating meat because of that class.”

San Quentin’s Prison University Project is the only onsite university for inmates in California. About 200 men take about two classes a semester toward their AA degrees. Since the university was founded in 1996, 68 students have earned AA’s at San Quentin, and many more have transferred and gone on to complete their studies after being paroled. The school is an extension of Patten University, a nondenominational Christian college based in Oakland.

Despite struggling at times, the Prison University Project gains momentum and prestige every year. It is also controversial. At a time when the cost of a four-year college education in California is approaching $100,000, many people are against providing free higher education to inmates.

“If you are a working-class family and you are law-abiding and struggling to put your kids through school, you may think, ‘Why should someone be able to commit a crime and then go to prison and get a college education?'” says Terry Thornton, spokesperson for the California Department of Corrections and Rehabilitation (CDCR). “People are supportive of education, but the taxpayers are not going to want to pay for prisoners to get a college degree while in prison.”

Building a School

Today, San Quentin’s university is completely privately funded. It didn’t start out that way. Originally, the university was supposed to be government-funded. Then, in 1994, Congress barred prisoners from receiving Federal Pell Grants, which in turn eliminated funding to higher education in prisons and forced some 350 programs to shut down. San Quentin would have done the same if it weren’t for one person: Jody Lewen.

In 1998, Lewen, a graduate student at UC Berkeley, went to a conference on psychoanalysis and happened to sit by someone who worked in San Quentin’s university program. Soon after, Lewen decided to volunteer to teach literature and composition to the inmates. Although she liked the university, Lewen could see how it could be so much better than it was, so she took an active role. She began e-mailing and contacting people in charge for more resources and bringing up her thoughts on the project to anyone who would listen.

Then the project’s executive director announced that he was leaving for another job in two weeks. People began saying the university would close down. They also started looking to Lewen for answers. “And I thought, ‘I’ll kill myself if I just stand here and watch this happen,’ you know,” says Lewen. “So I ended up saying, ‘This is really, really important to a lot of people, and I have to stabilize it somehow.'”

After she took over as executive director, Lewen found that she loved her new job. It was challenging, sure, but also satisfying. The inmates were so grateful and loved the classes so much, and it allowed Lewen a chance to teach and work in social justice at the same time.

“I was always a little uncomfortable teaching kids at Berkeley, because no matter what, I knew those people were going to be OK,” she says. “So I thought, ‘Oh, my God, here’s a way I can be in an academic setting and still help more marginal and needy people.'”

To generate funding, Lewen formed a nonprofit to support the university. Today, it is funded through donations from individuals, private foundations and corporations. Publishers donate textbooks. The classes are taught by approximately 60 volunteer teachers, most of whom are graduate students or instructors from Sonoma State University, UC Berkeley, SFSU and other Bay Area universities.

Freeing Minds

Running an accredited university within a prison system is a difficult challenge, to say the least. Much of Lewen’s time is divided between two things: getting funding and appealing to prison officials.

Since 2001, for example, Lewen has been trying to get officials to give her more classroom space. The university needs a minimum of eight classrooms five nights a week, but currently only has an average of three classrooms a night. Now, thanks to some pressure from members of the state Legislature, Lewen is seeing signs that her request may be granted. The Prison Industry Authority is building modular buildings, and one may be put aside for the university.

Although this is a positive development, six years is a long time to wait for such a basic resource. “Someone said to me, ‘Wow you’re running an entire college for us for free and all you’re asking for is some place to put it, and we can’t even do that,'” says Lewen. “‘What’s wrong with us?'”

While San Quentin’s program is the only on-site university in the state, other college opportunities are popping up for prisoners elsewhere. The CDCR is working with California community colleges to create opportunities for prisoners to learn online and through correspondence courses. In June, 71 inmates earned AA degrees this way at Ironwood State Prison and Chuckawalla Valley State Prison, making them the largest group of prisoners to graduate at one time with higher educational degrees in the United States.

Still, according to Thornton, there are no plans for taxpayers to pay for college education for prisoners. And we probably couldn’t afford to, anyway: the budget for the CDCR is $10 billion plus another $7.4 billion allocated to build 40,000 new prison beds. By comparison, the budget for higher education in California is around $15 billion. For the first time in the state’s history, Californians are paying more for prisons this year than they are for higher education.

On the other hand, studies suggest that spending money on educating prisoners may cost the taxpayer less in the long run. People who get an education in prison are far less likely to commit new crimes when they are released on parole, which means fewer repeat offenders. A 2001 study by the City University of New York found that prisoners who take college classes are four times more likely to behave themselves when they are released. It also found that college prison programs save taxpayers about $900,000 per 100 students every two years. It is more expensive to house a prisoner for a second and third time than to educate him once.

Prison education also lowers the toll that repeat criminals take on a community. “Ninety percent of people in prison today will be released back into the community,” says Owen Modeland, president of the Correctional Education Association, which serves educators and administrators who teach prisoners. “College education can mean that an ex-offender will get a job, pay taxes, support his family and stay out of trouble.”

Micro Macro

All inmates at the Prison University Project have to take college prep courses before they can start taking college-level classes, whether they have a high school diploma or GED or not. “I was naive about this when I went into the program,” says Lewen. “I thought, ‘Oh, a high school diploma. That means they should be able to write an essay, write a full sentence.’ No. A lot of students the schools are graduating can barely read or write.”

Half of California’s 173,000 prisoners read at a seventh-grade level and almost a quarter read below a third-grade level. Because of this, the college prep course in language skills starts with such basics as grammar and spelling. By the end of the semester, everyone has learned to write a five-paragraph essay.

The inmates are also required to take a college prep math course to get up to basic algebra. In some cases, this means reviewing decimals, fractions and multiplication tables. For other people, it means learning basic math for the first time.

“It is unbelievable,” says Lewen. “I had no idea going in what it was like. The story of what’s going on in California’s public school system is in the Prison University Project.”

Prisoners often couldn’t concentrate when they were in school because of other pressing issues like abuse, hunger, drug addiction, homelessness and gang activities. Additionally, a large portion of the prison population have undiagnosed learning disabilities, like ADD or dyslexia, making classroom time just that much more difficult. When they were ignored or chided by teachers for their disabilities, they may have acted out and slid into behavioral problems. Whatever the case, with most of them the educational system did not address their needs.

“In a way, prisoners are society’s failures,” says Department of Corrections spokesman Thornton. “When the average reading level is seventh grade, there have been a lot of failures. I’m not saying that that is the case with everyone; there are certainly people who deserve to be in jail. But a lot of people have been failed along the way.”

For these inmates, going back to school can bring back bad memories or unexpected emotions. It’s common for a prisoner to believe he is stupid and incapable of learning, and discovering this is not true can be upsetting. Some inmates will drop out of class when they start to do well, assuming it must not be a real class if they can get good grades.

Ly stayed in high school for the girls; if he had gone to an all-boys school, he jokes, he would have dropped out in the ninth grade. Yet he knew he was good at math. In 11th grade, he skated through calculus while barely paying attention, squeaking by with a C.

Still, Ly didn’t think of himself as intelligent until his prison classes. “I started realizing that I’m smart,” he says. “Not a super genius or anything, but I’m pretty quick. And I started thinking, ‘Hey, I could do something with my life.'”

This realization came slowly as Ly kept getting A’s. Then, for his intro to ethics class, he wrote a 30-page essay for his midterm, the longest thing he had ever written. When it was handed back, the teacher praised the essay in front of the class.

“She said, ‘This is the best paper in class,'” he remembers. “When I look back, it was nice. She said, ‘I don’t give out A-pluses very often.’ She had handed out only fours A-pluses in her whole career. I got an A-plus in that class because of that midterm.”

Life’s Random Pattern

Ly is one of many students who has been encouraged by the Prison University Project. When David Deutsch was sent to San Quentin for trafficking cocaine and marijuana in 2000, one of the first things he heard about from the other inmates was the university. “They absolutely loved that program,” he says. “There is no group of people more enthusiastic about learning than these prisoners.”

Deutsch, who got his bachelors from Humboldt State University in 1976, spent much of his time in prison tutoring other prisoners. Still, in his last year in San Quentin, he took some courses in Spanish. The class not only re-ignited his love of learning, he found that it distracted him from his situation in a way that almost nothing else did.

“When I would sit in Spanish class, I would forget I was in prison and just focus on Spanish,” says Deutsch, who was paroled in 2003 and is now pursuing a graduate degree in social work. “That may be another reason they love it so much. They completely forget about the fact that they are incarcerated. You temporarily forget where you are.”

Like most people, when Lewen first volunteered to teach at San Quentin, she was a little concerned about her safety. She was surprised to find that the prisoners were not threatening at all, but respectful and pleasant. In fact, in the program’s 11 years, there has never been a fight in a classroom and no teacher has ever been assaulted. By getting past the prison stereotype and getting to know the men as people, Lewen has started to see the potential the inmates once had—and, in many cases, still have.

“It’s almost like, as a society, we imagine people in prisons as a composite image of all the people who have ever committed a crime,” Lewen says. “Everyone imagines a psychopath. It’s just such a waste. Most of the people I see, if they had gone to my little private school in New York, they would have never been in prison. No way.”

For Ly, reentering society has been difficult after 10 years in jail, but he is still managing to get A’s in his five classes. While he finds the classes at SFSU are harder than the ones at the Prison University, the students are also less enthusiastic about learning.

“People here just sit in class, they don’t participate, they’re like, ‘Whatever, when are we going to be done?'” he says. “Half the class doesn’t show up. The class will have 60 students and only 30 will come.”

Ly can’t afford to be that apathetic. If he hadn’t gone to the Prison University, Ly thinks he would still be in jail now. Considering all it has given him, education is his top priority. “I know it’s work,” Ly says. “If I don’t have an education, with my background, things would be tough for me. That’s what education means to me.”


High on Grass

10.24.07

Three days pass before I discover my samples of Amazing Grass propped up against the front door that no one ever uses. The box is soft and soggy from rain, but this does nothing to quell my excitement. I love a package, even if what it contains are freeze-dried cereal grasses.

Inside, I discover three types of Amazing Grass drink powder: Green SuperFood, both plain and chocolate flavor, and wheat grass, all a little damp but apparently no worse for it. I mix my first sample of Green SuperFood drink powder with pink lemonade. Though not the most desirable combination, this is all I have on hand. I can’t stand to wait.

The resulting concoction, while not as good as, say, an Americano with half-and-half and brown sugar, definitely falls within the category of what I would consider consumable, and I’m pleased with the buzz I feel after drinking it. Perhaps I’m imagining things, inspired by the potential of having ingested more greens in one eight-ounce cup than I’ve had all month, but I definitely feel a subtle but discernable energy boost. Within only a couple of days, I grow addicted to the chocolate-flavored grass, which I mix with soy milk and down at an alarming rate, possibly exaggerated by the fact that I recently quit coffee and am desperate to engage in some type of addictive behavior.

Bored with my own experimentation, I decide to branch out and try my samples on unsuspecting friends. The adults I encounter, however, seem predisposed to not trying my grass, simply because they think they won’t like it, and so I’m forced to find a new set of victims, my own children. A few days earlier, after threats and cajoling, they both tried one sip, and then made gagging noises and refused to comment further. Bribery was obviously in order.

I start with a low-end bribe of $2 under the conditions that they consume an entire packet. They agree, and then begin to bargain. We finally settle on five Red Hots and five Sweet Tarts each, which saves me four bucks but probably annihilates the nutritional value obtained. However, the question remains: Will two boys, ages 13 and 11, drink an entire package of chocolate-flavored Green SuperFood, which, even in milk, fails to lose its disturbingly greenish tint? The answer is yes, and with nary a choke, gag or exclamation.

I speak to Brandon Bert, cofounder and co-owner of Amazing Grass with Todd Habermehl, about the beginnings of this four-year-old company and his inspiration to bring organic, nutritionally superior green foods to the marketplace. Bert grew up on green foods provided by his uncle and grandfather’s Kansas farm, where he says the cold winters are ideally suited for the growing of nutritionally superior grass. It is this same farm that supplies the grass they use today.

According to Bert, the nutrient levels contained in many of our fruits and vegetables are depleted from poor farming practices. Add to that the fact that many of us don’t have the time to eat as well as we should, and an easy fix like Amazing Grass makes a lot of sense. Granted, the idea of chugging down wheat, barley and alfalfa, with spirulina and chlorella thrown in for good measure, does not sound as tempting as, well, a lot of other things.

Because taste can be such an obstacle between any American and her greens, Bert and Habermehl have taken extensive measures to ensure that their products are not only of the highest quality, but as pleasing to the palate as it is possible for grass to be. For their children’s powder alone, which contains 33 fruits and vegetables (who knew there were so many?), they tested samples with over 500 kids, adjusting the ingredients until the taste was right. Their attention to this detail has paid off, and even the wheat grass powder, which I was the most hesitant to try, proves more than palatable.

Bert tells me his commitment is not just to keeping it local and organic, (all of their products are processed locally and grown in the United States), but to be as green as possible. As members of the nonprofit Co-op America, Amazing Grass is helping to sponsor the upcoming San Francisco Green Festival, slated for Nov. 9&–11.

At Bert’s urging, I check out the website for the Green Fest, which will be held at the Concourse Exhibition Center in San Francisco. With 150 speakers, including Deepak Chopra, Dr. Andrew Weil and, most importantly, pioneering journalist Amy Goodman, as well as 400 green businesses, live music, workshops and local, organic food and drink, this festival looks as promising as Amazing Grass tastes. For a mere $15 ($7 if you ride a bike), anyone can attend what is being called a three-day green party, with events into the evening. Amazing Grass will be there, and so will visionary activist and astrologer Caroline Casey, which is all the motivation this grass lover needs.

To learn more about Amazing Grass, go to www.amazinggrass.com; for details on the SF Green Festival, go to www.greenfestivals.org.


First Bite

0

10.31.07

Editor’s note: First Bite is a new concept in restaurant writing. This is not a go-three-times, try-everything-on-the-menu report; rather, this is a quick snapshot of a single experience.

For a part of the country already revered for its bounty of garden-fresh fruits and vegetables, Ubuntu in Napa has some of the most extraordinary specimens available on a restaurant plate. The upscale vegetarian oasis, opened in August, sources most of its ingredients from daily harvested organics grown in its own biodynamic gardens—planted by former COPIA curator Jeff Dawson—and its dairy, eggs, grains and accents like honey from Northern California’s finest purveyors.

The chic, sleek spot (it must be mentioned, for the novelty factor, that Ubuntu is a also swanky yoga studio upstairs), features some high-end international nods, like matsutake mushrooms that can cost $30 per pound in Japan, Marcona almonds and Padrón peppers from Spain, vadouvan spice from India, and burrata that comes from Italy’s mozzarella di bufala. And everything comes bundled in sophisticated dishes, like biodynamic risotto folded with globe onion purée and summer truffle-stuffed fougerus cheese (a bloomy-rind cow’s milk cheese from Tournan, in the ÃŽle-de-France), or a summer berry float of watermelon-hibiscus agua fresca spiked with lime granita.

Yet the best pedigreed food, most complicated recipe or glitteriest concept doesn’t guarantee excitement without the talents of a skilled chef, and for that, credit Ubuntu artist Jeremy Fox, a Johnson & Wales grad who’s cooked with Gordon Ramsay and was previously chef de cuisine with Manresa of Los Gatos. What he’s doing with these fine things is an inspiration.

Those precious matsutakes come thinly sliced but meaty, decorated with tiny bitterish white flowers, whole miniature hot radishes and dices of slippery homemade sesame tofu in a delicate, earthy broth ($10). A panzanella salad sings with grilled sweet-juicy peach, fluffy ricotta, crisp string beans and a zingy basil bud vinegar that imbues the bread with oily fire ($9). A single, simple beer-battered garden pepper stuffed with summer squash seemed pricey ($8), until the tempura melts in the mouth and the full-throttle romesco kicks in.

Fox sets the sensation bar so high, in fact, that in comparison, one evening’s “carta de musica” ($12) tasted almost ordinary, the whisper-thin cracker bread dotted with the slightest amount of porcini, pecorino and summer truffle, while the pizza of Kadota fig, braised amaranth and beet greens with Point Reyes blue cheese ($14) was more decoration than flavor.

The only true concern is that it’s very possible to leave here still hungry; the most filling dish on a recent menu was a gratin of three-hour braised fava beans and fideo sofrito with smoked tomato and a Long Meadow ranch egg. It was an intense but appetizer-portioned spaghetti casserole ($12).

That means that even the most generous ordering leaves room for dessert, prepared by Jeremy’s wife and partner Deanie Fox, also formerly of Manresa. Fox prepares such not-to-be-missed delights as brioche French toast with coastal huckleberries, sweet corn ice cream, honey and bee pollen ($8). The custardy bread is partnered with a crackly thin fruit roll-up and, yes, there were plenty of fat kernels in the ice cream for a weirdly pleasing effect. Brown butter crêpes, too, with nectarines, Bourbon-butterscotch ice cream and pecans ($7) were pillowy pleasures shocked with spun sugar. All of which adds up to a most remarkable meal in a most remarkable restaurant.

Ubuntu, 1140 Main St., Napa. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. 707.251.5656.


Quick-and-dirty dashes through North Bay restaurants. These aren’t your standard “bring five friends and order everything on the menu” dining reviews.

Two-Wheeled Transport

11.07.07 A couple of weeks ago, I found myself confused by the acronym DIY. The fact that it appeared in reference to one of my own articles did nothing to clarify matters. I puzzled over this for some time. Dogs in Yard? Drinking in Yurts? Clearly not cool enough to understand hip acronyms, it wasn't until I visited Community Bikes...

Sleeper Cells

11.07.07It had to be proven to me that something was going on with my body," says Sacramento resident Kelly Simpson, even though she came of age aware there was such as thing as Fabry disease. An uncle died of the rare disorder when she was a teen, and she says, "I grew up knowing my brother had this thing...

Letters to the Editor

11.07.07Bye-Bye ByrneI just wanted to wish Peter Byrne good luck on his book ("Later Alligators," the Byrne Report, Oct. 31) and finally let him know that I consider him one of the finest investigative reporters in what is left of this good old U.S.A. I have been a fan of Byrne's for a long time, and he is the...

Heritage for the Holidays

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Saint Elsewhere

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Lyrics Born

10.31.07The world of rock and roll is (you should pardon the term) studded with gifted visionaries and/or obsessive egomaniacs who not only write songs and sing them, but also play several instruments and produce the sessions, too. This article isn't about them.No, our purpose here is to celebrate the specialists who deal exclusively with words, whose lyric vision complements...

Hoods

10.31.07WHEN The Godfather commenced with the phrase "I believe in America," Francis Coppola wanted us to understand the part America had in the creation of a gangster. It was a shocking idea, and equally shocking was the insistence that a gangster could be just a good family man in a bad line of work. Thirty years later, the critique...

Prisoners’ Progress

10.31.07In 1996, when a jury convicted Jay Ly for manslaughter related to road rage, the judge ordered him to pay $3,500 for the funeral of the person he had killed. For a moment, Ly was shocked. "And I thought, 'Oh, shoot—funeral,'" he says. "It had never occurred to me that there was a funeral." It wasn't that Ly, then...

High on Grass

10.24.07 Three days pass before I discover my samples of Amazing Grass propped up against the front door that no one ever uses. The box is soft and soggy from rain, but this does nothing to quell my excitement. I love a package, even if what it contains are freeze-dried cereal grasses. Inside, I discover three types of Amazing Grass...

First Bite

10.31.07Editor's note: First Bite is a new concept in restaurant writing. This is not a go-three-times, try-everything-on-the-menu report; rather, this is a quick snapshot of a single experience. For a part of the country already revered for its bounty of garden-fresh fruits and vegetables, Ubuntu in Napa has some of the most extraordinary specimens available on a restaurant plate....
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