First Bite

Editor’s note: First Bite is a new concept in restaurant writing. This is not a go-three-times, try-everything-on-the-menu report; rather, this is a quick snapshot of a single experience. We invite you to come along with our writers as they—informed, intelligent eaters like yourselves—have a simple meal at an area restaurant, just like you do.

At Miguel’s, the walls are painted in black-and-white murals, looking a bit rough, as if the painter went off for a beer and a nap, and will come back to fill them in later.

Service can be slow. Even in sleepy Calistoga, where mud baths are a fitting symbol of the unhurried, viscous approach to daily life, it’s not unusual to lounge through impressive waits between the arrival of the basket of big, thick, puffy chips and torrid umber-hued salsa, and an appetizer or entrée.

The food ordered may show up as something else. The kitchen, perhaps contemplating the ambitious task of putting out the lengthy list of Sonoran and California-themed fare, might languidly decide that certain primary ingredients and accoutrements are more suggestion than promise.

And when all is done, you may or not get the correct bill. On a recent visit, my table received a neighbor’s tab, and—cha-ching! —we scored, since it was at least $20 less than what we’d run up. (Yes, I did call the mistake to the server’s attention, so no lightning will strike me dead and start another Napa County fire.)

But ultimately, owner Miguel Cuenca has put together an experience that most blandly can be called auténtico, and more glowingly as soul-satisfying and delicious. There’s a reason notable chefs from neighboring fancy restaurants make the place a regular breakfast stop, for the soupy steak and guacamole chilaquiles ($10.95) or Texas French toast sopped in brandy-cinnamon egg batter ($6). Importantly, too, Miguel’s has its priorities. Meals may mosey in, but a potent margarita ($6) appears nearly before the request leaves your lips.

Huevos rancheros ($10.50) are a messy all-day favorite, layering flour tortillas with lacy-edged fried eggs, beans, salsa, cheese, guacamole, sour cream and chunky golden-brown potatoes. As a Oaxacan specialty, juicy chicken splays on a mirror of velvety mole ($15.95) to be wrapped with rice and beans in tortillas—the server may not apologize for the tortillas being absent from the plate, but he’s quick to fix the problem.

Two tamales are served in an ungainly heap, yet the masa is fresh steamed corn, the chicken tucked inside is tender, and the red sauce splashed atop is edged with just enough burn to command respect without going gringo-unfriendly. And do I really need the masa cakes promised with the carnitas ($12.95)? Yes, I do, so my server finally brings them solo, to soak up the thin gravy of pork braised with onions, garlic, citrus and bay leaf.

We’re loosening our belts and laying down our entrée forks before the quesadilla appetizer ($6.45) arrives. No matter, it’s still a lovely thing, bloated as fat as a grilled cheese sandwich and smothered in guacamole and sour cream.

As we leave, our server pops his head out of the kitchen and says, “Hurry back.” Wonderful choice of words. But fitting, because indeed, I will.

Miguel’s, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. 1437 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga. 707.942.6868



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Quick-and-dirty dashes through North Bay restaurants. These aren’t your standard “bring five friends and order everything on the menu” dining reviews.

Shock Value

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07.09.08

Since they were introduced in 1993, Tasers have been aggressively promoted as a nonlethal “electronic control device” for use by law enforcement, military personnel and correctional officers. Formally known as the Thomas A. Smith electronic rifle (named for the cofounder of Taser International), this instrument fires twin metal barbs attached by insulated wires to the Taser device, which delivers a 50,000-volt burst of low-amperage electricity into the target body at the point of contact. The resulting shock “temporarily overrides the command and control systems of the body to impair muscular control,” the company’s website crows.

Tasers have been purchased and deployed by more than 1,700 law enforcement agencies across the country, including most North Bay police departments and the campus officers at Sonoma State University and Santa Rosa Junior College.

“We now issue the Tasers to all our deputy sheriffs,” says Sonoma County Sheriff Bill Cogbill, whose department has purchased 127 of the $800 weapons. “I’m so convinced, based on the data, both medical and practical, that the use of the Tasers has really helped avoid injuries and death to officers as well as suspects,” he says, adding that “the number of people dying in police custody hasn’t changed over the years,” even as Taser use has mushroomed.

But Tasers have been implicated in a growing number of fatalities. “Since 1999, there have been 148 deaths in the United States and Canada following the use of a Taser, more than half of which occurred in the last year alone,” Mark Schlosberg writes in “Stun Gun Fallacy: How the Lack of Taser Regulation Endangers Lives,” a 2005 study by the ACLU of Northern California. Fifteen of those deaths were in Northern or Central California, including 31-year-old Carlos Fernandez, who was Tasered six times by Santa Rosa police on July 16, 2005. His autopsy attributed Fernandez’s death to “drug-induced delirium from methamphetamine intoxication.”

To date, there have been few genuinely independent studies of the Taser’s possible risks, particularly for individuals with a history of heart problems or drug abuse. Dr. Zian Tseng, a cardiologist at UCSF, has warned that a Taser discharge could be fatal if the shock happens to hit at the wrong moment during the heartbeat cycle, a possibility that increases when multiple shocks are given quickly.

Cogbill dismisses that as an insignificant risk. “If you have pre-existing issues, in a very small percent—point zero-zero-zero-something—you might have somebody react and die as a result of the confrontation with police and what’s going on inside of their body. If this person’s high on drugs or psychotic or something, and you’re fighting them and they’ve got their core temperature up and pulse and everything up, that’s the same as if you Tasered them, ’cause it does the same thing to the body. So whether you use a Taser or physically fought them or use the baton on them,” he concludes, “they most likely would have died from that confrontation.”

On June 6, a federal jury in San Jose awarded a $6 million judgment to the family of a man who died after being Tasered by police officers more than two dozen times. The case upheld the family’s claim that Taser International was partially responsible for Robert Heston’s death, because the company had failed to warn police “that its stun guns could be dangerous when used on people under the influence of drugs,” the Associated Press reported. Heston’s death was officially attributed to a combination of meth intoxication and the Taser shocks.

Although the company has been sued at least 71 other times, this was the first time a jury had found it liable, a conclusion made even more notable by the fact that the jury exonerated the officers who had applied the 30 or so shocks.

The decision echoed a key criticism in the ACLU report, that Taser International has marketed the Taser “as a use of force measure that can be used in a wide range of circumstances,” Schlosberg said in a recent interview. “I feel that the way they’ve promoted it, saying that it’s safer than Tylenol, is not very responsible. We’re concerned that the Taser is going to become not just a substitute for guns, but a substitute for verbal persuasion, for less intensive persuasion measures and may actually end up proliferating the use of force without proper regulation.”

In the three years since the ACLU report was issued, many departments have heeded its call for heightened training and regulation of Taser use, although others, notably the Royal Canadian Mounted Police, have begun to seriously reconsider their use of the device.

Meanwhile, Taser International is proudly rolling out a new consumer product, the C2, billed as “a personal protection device.” Small enough to fit easily into a purse or pocket, it comes in “nine designer colors,” including leopard-skin print.


‘Rally’ for the Planet

07.09.08

I like to think of myself as noncompetitive. I don’t care if I win, because I never do anyway. However, there is something about a good old-fashioned, intellectually challenging competition that really gets me going. This is why, when I started my own Carbon Rally team, the Seb-Town Rockers, I decided to go straight for the big guys, the Royal Acorns, a team of 17 self-proclaimed tweens who, from the looks of their picture, all attend the same private girls school.

The Royal Acorns, with the guidance of their team leader, Carbon Cruncher, are kicking serious carbon ass. Since joining, they have reduced 13.77 tons of carbon, and this game has only existed since April 2007. Granted, the Royal Acorns have some things in their favor. They are, for example, too young to drive. Also, they have the benefit of youthful vigor.

I, however, am not to be deterred, and after interviewing Carbon Rally’s Jason Karas, I set about putting together a team that I believe will, given enough time, take the Royal Acorns down. In about 10 minutes, I am able to create a Seb-Town Rockers account, invite people, come up with a team motto (“No more excuses!”) and take about three carbon challenges. I email everyone I know. This is not a lot of people, but within the week most of them join. Now, I have a team of 11 people. Together, we have already saved 317 pounds of carbon, and I’m pretty sure no one is cheating. As Karas so aptly tells me, what’s the point of cheating when the entire point of the exercise is to feel good about yourself? The only thing anyone can win from this is the sense of wellbeing that comes from a job well done and some stiff competition.

What Karas and his team have created is not just an Internet site that educates and empowers people regarding the climate crisis, but one that is fun to use. The challenges may seem simple enough: agree not to eat meat two days this week, don’t use a disposable water bottle for the next seven days. These are small things, but ultimately, all are tasks that can be scientifically measured and accounted for, and best of all, they compound.

Each task comes with clearly stated information—details of the challenge, rules of the challenge and a fancy-looking math equation that shows how not accepting this particular challenge uses carbon and to what degree. There are location maps and graphs, and members can suggest potential challenges for weeks to come.

As I settle into my new role as team leader, I take my cues from knowledgeable sources. Karas suggests that a good team leader is not passive, but rather active and strong. He speaks highly of the Royal Acorns. In fact, he is the one who pointed them out to me in the first place. He also mentions Kevin Schlabach, team leader for a corporate team called Beyond Green. Karas, who feels that the Carbon Rally participants are the life-giving force of the site, arranges for me to talk with Schlabach. I do my research and discover that Schlabach’s team of 31 people has saved 3.15 tons of carbon thus far.

 Via email, Schlabach tells me of the importance of keeping the team engaged while making sure the team environment is positive and supportive. Schlabach has been an active member for six months. He was the 540th person to join Carbon Rally, and he created the 49th team. There are now over 280 teams and over 3,500 members, half of whom do not belong to a team at all but operate as individuals.

Schlabach and his team members have the benefit of being co-workers at Beyond.com, the world’s largest network of niche career communities—whatever that means. Schlabach sees his teammates every day, thereby affording himself an excellent opportunity to apply a little peer pressure. As good as Beyond Green may be, however, they are still behind the Royal Acorns by a number of tons, which makes them seem less of a threat to the Seb-Town Rockers.

The Royal Acorns have 366 comments on their team page. Beyond Green has 41. The Seb-Town Rockers have 12. At this point, I feel fairly confident that, with enough rigorous attention on my part, combined with the fantastic commitment of the Seb-Town Rockers team, we will soon be measuring our carbon in the tons and our team messages in the thousands.

Already, I have cut my car idle time by minutes on a daily basis, cut my meat eating back by two days a week and refrained from buying a single plastic water bottle. Yesterday, I agreed to compost for two months. A few of the Seb-Town Rockers have complained that they need more challenges. Then they tell me they already do most of these things anyway. “Well, do it again,” I snap. “And this time, do it for the team.”

To join Carbon Rally, go to [ http://www.carbonrally.com/ ]www.carbonrally.com.

The challenges seem simple enough but they add up to a lot of carbon saved.


Roasted Peanuts

07.09.08


Sonoma County is truly fortunate to host within its borders such a stellar theater-arts training program as SRJC’s annual Summer Repertory Theatre. Each summer brings a new crop of actors and crew members, and those of us who make the pledge to see all five shows often become fans of particular players, rooting for this actor or that singer, whom we get to see performing in a range of roles, large and small, over the course of two months. Some of the shows, of course, turn out to be stronger than others, but part of the SRT experience includes walking away from a weaker show happy that we were able to see one of our favorite performers shining in an otherwise unfocused or unevenly carried-out production.

Such is the case of the cute-as-a-button but not-as-solid-as-the-other-shows musical Snoopy, which opened last weekend, the fourth of this season’s shows to debut. The primary reason to see Snoopy is Sarah Michelle Cuc as Peppermint Patty. Having already made a strong dramatic impression as Mary Warren in The Crucible and as a comic actress in several roles in The Women, Cuc, who comes to SRT from Santee, Calif., demonstrates in Snoopy that she also has a powerhouse singing voice. It’s safe to say that we can expect good things from Sarah Michelle Cuc in the future.

Snoopy, based on the beloved cartoons and characters of Charles M. Schulz, is something of a sequel to the better-known You’re a Good Man, Charlie Brown, only with more and better songs, this time by Larry Grossman and Hal Hackady. Essentially plotless, it covers a year in the lives of Charlie Brown, Linus, Lucy, Sally and especially Snoopy, Charlie Brown’s imaginative, wannabe-novelist dog.

Nothing much happens, of course, but then nothing much happened in Schulz’s strip. Snoopy tries to write a novel and waits for each new rejection letter, he pines for his long-lost mother and he stages satirical sock-puppet shows for the kids in the neighborhood. The kids go to school, worry about things, swap witty kidlike insults and make tentative attempts at reaching out to one another. What we get, basically, in Snoopy is a series of musical performances illustrating the daily grind of being a kid without much to do, each song stitched together by short and joke-filled sketches, many lifted directly from the panels of Schulz’s comic.

In the SRT production, competently directed by William McNeil, Cuc nicely displays the awkward uncertainty of being Peppermint Patty, one of the “odd kids,” alternating between openly expressing her befuddlement with school and homework, and her passive-aggressive affection for Charlie Brown (Brian Watson). When she sings the wonderful song “Poor Sweet Baby” to Charlie Brown, she shows serious singing chops.

Also good are Zach Raino as Snoopy (acrobatically leaping on and off that iconic doghouse, displaying solid comic timing in his interactions with other characters) and Jimmy Robertson as Linus, capturing the sweet intelligence of the kid who can’t bear to be apart from his security blanket. Robertson has a nice quick bit when his blanket must be taken away and laundered, and we see various stages of panic play across his face before he finally gets the blanket back and melts with relief.

Lucy, the bossy-crabby queen of the neighborhood, is played by Nicole Odell with the right amount of self-assured cluelessness, and as Charlie Brown’s sister, Sally, Raquel Cockrell has some strong, funny moments of her own.

That said, this is one of the inherent problems with the “Peanuts” plays: it’s always weird to see adults playing kidlike voices and attitudes, suggesting some sort of arrested development or brain damage that doesn’t present itself in the strip where the kids look like kids.

There are a few other problems as well, though none is crippling. In general, the women of Snoopy all out-sing the men, many of whom wobbled and pitched their way through opening night.

The set by Sherry Rahn looks a bit slapped-together compared to the first-rate sets on display in all the other shows, and the musical accompaniment by pianist Lilli Wosk seemed a bit uncertain and off-tempo. Despite these quibbles, Snoopy is mostly enjoyable, and the stunning closing anthem, “Just One Person,” had the audience in tears, it was so well staged and performed.

‘Snoopy’ runs through Aug. 6. July 5, 8&–11, 19, 25&–26, 29&–31 and Aug. 6 at 8pm; also July 5&–6, 9&–11, 19&–20, 26, 30 and Aug. 6 at 2pm; July 6 and 20 at 7:30pm. Newman Auditorium, Santa Rosa Junior College, 1501 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa. $8&–$20. 707.527.4343.


Museums and gallery notes.

Reviews of new book releases.

Reviews and previews of new plays, operas and symphony performances.

Reviews and previews of new dance performances and events.

Letters to the Editor

07.09.08

Voodoo Econ

John Sakowicz’s article on the “Shadow Economy” (June 25) was succinct, powerful and dead on. I first became aware of how “shadowy” things were getting when I learned that there was a financial instrument called a “weather derivative.” Betting on the weather! Sure sounds like voodoo economics to me. Time will tell how this all plays out but it should be an interesting time to say the least. Thanks again for the great writing.

Nic Smith

Santa Rosa

It really needs to stop

More than dark, symbol-laden German cinema, this gripping, yet horrifying story (“Shadow Economy”) strikes me as the perfect theme for a Robert Ludlum thriller—very much of our times, sans the chickens.

It is mind-boggling yet eerily plausible that this garbage is going on. Lots of brilliant minds on Wall Street driven by greed (another famous movie image from the movie of the same name!), the lust for power, the ease of contrivance and strategy, and the fact that beautifully and simply, they can.

As our country and most of its inhabitants struggle with everyday problems—and lately, that’s gas and groceries—the evil-making of these strangely charismatic villains continues unabated. This needs to stop. It really needs to stop.

Marva Marrow

hesperia

Unclothed Emperors

Excellent paper! I was looking for a glimpse into the zeitgeist of the Californian economy and popular culture while visiting the Napa Valley and came upon your well-written publication in a restaurant in St. Helena with the front page article on the secrets and lies of the current commodities market (May 28). John Sakowicz made us all proud with his alarmingly accurate perception of the current situation. Unfortunately, I’ve misplaced the paper and desperately want to show my people in Canada what’s really going on.

Please email me a copy of this article as I believe this information needs to be circulated, and I no longer feel alone in knowing the emperor is wearing no clothes.

Keep fighting the good fight.

Jonalyn Siemen

Victoria, B.C., Canada

Last Dance?

Last Sunday, at the San Anselmo Street Fair, my wife and I enjoyed a talented band playing renditions of Beatles’ tunes. While observing the crowd dancing to the music, we both noticed a particular dancer gesticulating in an eccentrically ’60s style of movement. I remarked about how his exaggerated style enhanced the ambiance of the music. It seemed to be a reminiscent celebration for all.

Very soon after, we observed a police officer approach the dancer and pull him aside. The officer proceeded to quietly handcuff the dancer. Within three minutes, a gathering of puzzled and concerned citizens approached the officer to ask what the dancer had done. The officer answered that someone had placed a call to the police department, feeling threatened by the dancer’s behavior. 

A brief conversation among the gathering of concerned citizens revealed that no one had witnessed any behavior at any time that could be construed as threatening. At one minute the dancer was celebrating, the next minute he was shackled, shamed and crying in front of a dismayed crowd.

I communicated to the officer in charge that the dancer had committed no crime and suggested that the proper procedure would be to release the dancer, while maintaining a police presence in his vicinity. I also pointed out that by the officer’s standards, at least 10 other imbibers swaying to the music should be detained. The officer responded that the dancer was obviously intoxicated and was a threat to his own safety. I replied that the dancer should be allowed to decide for himself if he was a threat to his own well-being.

The demeanor of the three officers involved was professional, courteous and firm. Their presentation represented their unit well. But why did the dancer have to be publicly humiliated? How eccentric must one be to be considered a threat? What kind of paranoid and self-obsessed individual would summon the police in response to such benign behavior?

After our brief conversation, the commanding officer returned to our small crowd of concerned citizens and said the dancer voluntarily acquiesced to going to detox. We left the dancer sobbing in the squad car. I trusted the word of the officer. I hope my trust was not misplaced.

 James Miner

San Rafael

   


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Dynastic Days

the arts | visual arts |

Amber Dreams: This bowl carved of amber serves both form and some function.

By Richard von Busack

In the public mind, three centuries of the imperial Ming dynasty come down to the vase. The porcelain is haunting, underglazed in a sky-blue to glow creamy white. The once-guarded science of porcelain making is available to every community college’s ceramics class, so the divinity of these vases must seem a little faded. In our era of mechanical reproduction, even Grecian urns don’t wring any Keats out of the average passer-by.

There are valuable and beautiful Ming vases on display at the San Francisco Asian Art Museum’s summer show, “Power and Glory: Court Arts of China’s Ming Dynasty,” outlining the arts of the regime (1368–1644). This is an ambitious, expensive and politically fraught borrowing of treasures from three different Chinese museums.

In the ground-floor galleries, the growing richness of the emperors is seen in luscious white nephrite jade, carved into belts and pendants, glowing like starlight. Overlooking some of the treasures are silk paintings of the emperors in their serene mildness, posed in stiff gowns embroidered with heraldic animals.

Glazed stoneware, preserved from the ages underground, includes a segment of the arched gate of the Temple of Gratitude, circa 1412–1431, featuring an elephant with squinting, human eyes. The show also features specimens of gold-threaded “Heavenly Splendor” brocade, woven into a pattern of disbelief-inducing intricacy.

Perhaps more heavenly and splendid: a Tibetan tanka, a gift from the emperor to the high lamas. This silk satin embroidery depicts Raktayamari, three-eyed “Red Conqueror of Death,” in midcopulation with his consort goddess. It has a lavishness and sophistication that might not have been rivaled in the world of 1400.

Preferring art on the human scale, I was more taken by a Wu Wei painting. Wu (1459–1508) was officially declared “the Number One Painter” of two imperial regimes, though he was a rough-houser, a Bukowski. Wu’s A Monk Enjoying a Moon Painting depicts a wanderer staring in amorous glee at a fine scroll. His physique suggests that the plump friars on German beer bottles had Chinese cousins. This monk has a square chin and a boxer’s nose, and he holds the rolled-up lower end of the scroll at a downward angle, like Groucho’s stogie.

Over the course of the dynasty, the emperors left Nanjing to establish a new capital in Beijing. Here, the emperor and about 60,000 of his closest friends retired from the world. The Ming flourished at the same time as the European Renaissance. And these Chinese paintings recall incidents and heroes of earlier times, just as European artists looked back to ancient Rome. China, too, had its age of exploration, like Europe. Part of the show discusses the emperor’s treasure fleet with mariners who voyaged from Surabaya to Mombasa. “The emperor did not trade,” explains the museum’s Dr. Michael Knight. “He received tribute and he gave presents.”

The difference between the Ming and the European Renaissance is the former’s lack of interest in everything outside the palace walls. Rather than initiating the growth of the individual, the Ming reinforced connoisseurship, rank andrigid tradition.

As the Beijing Olympics commence, one hears all the grumbling about how these next decades will be a Chinese century, just as the last was an American century. If this is the case, this show provides some solace. This art provides a tremendous argument for the human race, no matter what language that race speaks.

‘Power and Glory’ runs through Sept. 21 at the Asian Art Museum, 200 Larkin St., San Francisco. 415.581.3500.



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Museums and gallery notes.


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Reviews and previews of new dance performances and events.

News Blast

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07.09.08

Leaky Hulls

It’s been eight months since 58,000 gallons of Cosco Busan bunker fuel severely damaged Bay Area waters and beaches, killing, injuring and endangering wildlife—with monetary costs now exceeding the $61 million federal insurance liability limit.

One North Bay organization working to prevent future spills is especially devoted to protecting Bay Area marine wildlife by providing hands-on opportunities for citizen action. Marin Headlands&–based Seaflow “is an educational nonprofit organization building an international movement dedicated to protecting whales, dolphins and all marine life from active sonars and other lethal ocean noise pollution.” In addition to focusing on audio threats, Seaflow’s Vessel Watch Project, modeled after the Beach Watch movement, asks concerned citizens, surfers, swimmers and beach walkers to help monitor large vessel traffic into the Bay. The aim is to prevent another Cosco Busan&–type disaster.

This Saturday, July 12, Seaflow invites volunteers to sail with them to the Gulf of the Farallones National Marine Sanctuary and newly proposed state Marine Protected Areas. California Assemblyman Jared Huffman is expected be present at the launch. A Scripps Marine Laboratory acoustician will be aboard assisting volunteers while they sight, listen to and record whales and other marine wildlife. Participants will also track radar, monitoring large ships passing through the Sanctuary area for potential Coast Guard violations.

To sign up for either Saturday’s cruise, for a second trip on Aug. 2, or to participate in the Vessel Watch Project go to www.vesselwatchproject.org, or contact Jackie Dragon at 415.229.9354.

Legal Marriage

Though hundreds of LGBT’s have now legally tied the knot, their travails have not yet ended. The next state challenge to marriage between two humans in love comes this November in the form of Proposition 8, the “Anti-Marriage Ballot Initiative.” The proposition, if passed, would constitutionally ban same sex-marriage, thus overriding the recent State Supreme Court decision permitting it.

To highlight the issue, Spectrum LGBT Center, serving Marin and Sonoma counties, along with underwriting sponsor Fountaingrove Lodge and a host of co-sponsors, holds a town-hall gathering at Santa Rosa’s Glaser Center on Tuesday, July 15. A reception kicks things off at 6:30pm, followed by four prominent local presenters: LCLR executive director Kate Kendell, Maya Harris, Northern Cal’s ACLU executive director Deb Kinney, Chair of Equality California’s Marriage PAC Committee and Evan Wolfson, author of Why Marriage Matters: America, Equality, and Gay People’s Right to Marry.

To RSVP (not required), call 415.457.1115, ext. 209, or email ev****@****************er.org. A $5&–$10 donation is suggested.


Abecedarian of Fun

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07.09.08

Animal Crackers In the sticky fist of 108 years of kids, Barnum’s Animal Crackers have taken the shape of 54 different animals (or sometimes just the sticky fist). A string was added to the brightly colored box so it could be hung on a Christmas tree.

Bubbles In a glass of Guinness stout, the bubbles float downward. Bubbles at the center rise and create a circulating current in the glass, causing those bubbles along the walls of the glass to be pulled down in the draft.

Civet coffee (kopi luwak) Palm civets, furry little critters that live in tropical forests, have become unwitting factories for a strange brew. Swallowing coffee cherries whole, their stomach acids and enzymes “process” the cherries, removing the fruit, leaving the bean. After the civet does its, ahem, civet duty, the beans are collected from the scat, cleaned and dried before roasting. Enthusiasts rave about the “distinctive” coffee that can sell for up to $450 a pound.

Diamond Jim BradyA typical day’s consumption for this early-20th-century rail baron with a legendary appetite could include hominy, eggs, cornbread, muffins, flapjacks, chops, potatoes, beefsteak, a full gallon of orange juice, two to three dozen clams and oysters, a brace of boiled lobsters, three deviled crabs, a joint of beef, several kinds of pie, a platter of seafood, six more crabs, two bowls of green turtle soup, six lobsters, two canvasback ducks, two portions of terrapin, steak, vegetables and an entire platter of pastries for dessert. Brady’s autopsy revealed a stomach six times larger than the average person’s.

Eggs The white part of an egg is called the glair. The empty space at the base of the egg between the white and shell is the air cell. The candler uses the size of the air cell to determine an egg’s grade. The chalazae are those mucousy strands of egg white that anchor the yolk in the center of the thick white. The more prominent the chalazae, the fresher the egg.

FuguConsidered a delicacy in Japan, fugu (blowfish) contains a deadly poison in its organs. Prepared correctly, it creates a mellow, tingling buzz in the mouth; incorrectly, it can cause seizure or death. Only licensed cooks can prepare it; training takes 10 years. Fugu is cooked in separate kitchens, and by law every chef must taste his preparation personally before serving it to customers. Disposal of fugu’s toxic wastes is also strictly regulated, following the death of homeless people who ate fugu waste from dumpsters.

Gum blondes Toronto artist Jason Kronenwald constructs portraits of such celebrities as Britney Spears and Lindsay Lohan entirely out of ABC gum (that’s “already been chewed” gum, for those of you who skipped childhood) stuck to plywood. All the colors are “natural” to the gum and “mixed” in the mouth by a band of willing chewers. Kronenwald keeps his own teeth out of it.

Huitlacoche From the Nahuatl, “huitlatl” meaning “excrement” and “coche” meaning “raven,” this black fungus, known to most farmers as corn smut or soot, grows on ears of corn making the kernels swell with spores until they are bulbous and black. It has a long history in the cuisines of Aztecs, Hopis and Zunis for its pungent, earthy taste and reputed life-giving properties.

Ice cream Squid, bacon, whale, Stilton cheese, pit viper, silk, ox tongue, natural Viagra, raw horseflesh, fried pork rind, garlic, sauerkraut, cold sweat are all ice cream flavors. Puts Baskin’s 31 to shame.

Jello Technicians at St. Jerome Hospital in Batavia, N.Y., tested a bowl of lime jello with an EEG machine and found it to have the same brainwaves as adult men and women.

Kwispelbier “A beer for your best friend,” this canine beverage named after the Dutch word for wagging a tail, was invented by pet-shop owner Gerrie Berendsen, who wanted to share a Miller-time moment with her dogs after a day of hunting. It’s nonalcoholic, so your best friend will have no trouble drinking you under the table, then licking you mercilessly.

LutefishPurported to be the food of the Vikings and still a Nordic tradition around Christmas, lutefish is made from dried cod or ling prepared with lye, creating its famous jelly-like consistency. But be careful not to let it lie in the lye too long, else the fats of the fish turn to soap.

McDonald’s Think Big Macs are universal? In India you’ll find a Maharaja Mac, of lamb or chicken meat, and a vegetarian McAloo Tikki. In Israel, there are three kosher versions of the Golden Arches. Sweden has the first ski-through McDonald’s in the world. Germany’s serve beer. In Chile, you dress burgers with avocado paste, not ketchup. And in Hong Kong, burgers come between two patties of glutinous rice.

New Year’s rituals In Spain, the special tradition is to eat 12 grapes in 12 seconds as the clock bell tolls the hour and rings in the New Year. Each grape represents the 12 months to come, sweet or sour. You can even buy a tin of 12 peeled, seeded grapes all ready for popping.

Olives This fermented fruit holds a place of glory in history (not to mention on pizza slices). Victors in the Olympic games were crowned with olive leaves. Athena won the favor of the Greeks and the naming of their capitol by the most useful gift of an olive tree. A twig of an olive tree brought back by his white dove assured Noah land was ho, and lo, became a symbol of peace.

Peanuts An ingredient of dynamite. Peanut oil can be processed to produce glycerol, which is used to make nitroglycerin, one of the key components of the explosive.

Quinoa Cultivated from before 3,000 B.C., quinoa was worshiped by the Incas (explaining why the Catholic Spanish conquerors evidently felt moved to suppress it almost 400 years). Each planting season, the Inca leader planted the first seed using a solid gold shovel. Although most people believe it is a grain, it’s really a fruit.

Roadkill cook-off Since West Virginia legalized harvesting roadkill some 20 years ago, it was no big surprise when the cook-off was born. In Marlinton, W.V., this September, expect to sample such dishes as Thumper Meets Bumper and One Ton Wonton. The number one contest rule is that the entry must include animals typically found dead on the road—groundhog, possum, deer, rabbit, squirrel, raccoon, etc.—though they need not actually come from there.

SushiThe best sushi chefs prepare octopus by first giving the live animal a long, full-body massage.

Turkey testicle festivalAfter the road kill cook-off, head over to Byron, Ill., in October to have a ball—a turkey ball, that is. Go ahead and have two (they come in a matched set.) Gobble, gobble.

Uses for food A teaspoon of pepper sprinkled in the washing machine before adding clothes will keep colors from fading. Dry orange peels, which contain flammable oils, can be used to start a fire instead of paper, with a much nicer aroma. To speed up the ripening of tomatoes, place in a brown paper bag with a ripe apple and seal for a few days.

Vinegar Pliny the Elder tells of how Cleopatra bet Marc Antony she could host the most lavish feast ever. After a pretty luxe meal, she dropped one of her pearl earrings (said to be worth 15 kingdoms) into a glass of vinegar where it dissolved. Bottoms up!

Watermelon A 17-pound black Densuke watermelon sold for 650,000 yen or $6,100 on June 6, 2008, making it the most expensive watermelon ever. 

Xanthan gum A polysaccharide produced by fermenting corn starch with the Xanthonomonas campestris bacterium, xanthan gum has acquired currency in the latest molecular gastronomy craze. It helps “stabilize,” “thicken” and “emulsify.” Add it to foods or liquids to change them into gel, paste, foam or glop.

 

Yeast In the production of lambic, a Belgian ale, no yeast is artificially added to the wort (the liquid mash); instead, it’s exposed to the open air of the “Zennevalei” (Senne Valley). Wild yeast cells do their natural, spontaneous magic to start fermentation. 

Zedoary An ancient spice, related to turmeric, native to India and Indonesia, with a bouquet and taste like ginger. Although quite rare in the West, it is used in Indian pickles and curries, and in Chinese medicine to purify the blood and cure flatulence.

Quick dining snapshots by Bohemian staffers.

Winery news and reviews.

Food-related comings and goings, openings and closings, and other essays for those who love the kitchen and what it produces.

Recipes for food that you can actually make.

Blowing Hot Air

07.09.08

Millions of gallons of North Bay wastewater are pumped high into the Mayacamas Mountains each day, injected down deep-drilled wells aimed at permeable igneous rocks, which lie like enormous frying pans atop molten magma thousands of feet beneath the earth’s crust.

On contacting this supraheated rock, the water flashes into steam, racing back to the surface via corresponding production wells. The steam is funneled through tentacle-like networks of above-ground pipes before arriving at one of 22 spotless geothermal plants spread throughout 30 square rugged miles comprising The Geysers geothermal area. The steam is fed through turbines mounted inside each plant, which generate more electricity than any other geothermal field in the entire world. In fact, the electricity generated from these plants could easily power the entire North Bay, were it a truly local resource.

My idea was that there might be some big company who was trying to control all the hot lands, and as I consider the Geysers the best . . . therefore could not see how it was to your advantage to join any such combination when you have done all the pioneer work and put the whole matter on a good foundation.

—Luther Burbank’s 1924 letter to Mr. J. D. Grant of Healdsburg

Eighty-four years have passed since Luther Burbank penned that letter. The Geysers, the geothermal power anomaly Burbank hoped would remain in local hands, is instead a tiny subholding tied to trillions of international finance dollars, massive worldwide pollution, carbon energy, corporate rip-offs, juicy scandals, Third World oppression, neo-con and Republican Party politics, and even to the machinery of war.

But what does this transcontinental dynamic suggest about the nascent development of our nation’s renewable “green” energy resources? Will humanity’s inevitable shift away from “dirty” fossil fuels merely lead to an adjusted energy regime, a corporate-controlled continuum emphasizing nuclear, ethanol, geothermal, massive solar plantations, mammoth wind farms and other big centralized “clean” technologies?

Or does our ongoing energy crisis bring us to an opportunistic fork in the road, a point at which we might choose to shift the entire energy paradigm and plunge, Manhattan Project&–like, into developing technologies aimed at decentralizing energy generation, taking us off the grid for good by clean-powering our entire physical existence from those very places we live, work and play?

One way to explore these complex issues is to put a face—or in this case, three distinct human faces—upon the corporate power structures within which our local green resource, The Geysers, is currently subsumed. In other words, let’s start by exploring just who’s really behind all that steam at The Geysers.

The New ‘Deal’

“Delaney & Strong can make a lot of money with your tax plan,” star investment banker Tom Hanson says to naive environmentalist Abbey Gallagher, concerning her carbon-trade-for-pay scheme. “Which means all these companies that are developing alternative energy will finally get the money they desperately need. At the end of the day, it’s all about results. All the good intentions in the world,” Hanson says, “aren’t going to save the planet.”

—From the movie The Deal

David M. Leuschen was an executive producer (i.e., the money man) for Christian Slater’s 2005 straight-to-DVD flop The Deal. The film has all the earmarks of an autobiopic wank-fantasy. In real life, Leuschen is cofounder and senior managing director of the private equity firm Riverstone Holdings LLC. He’s also a managing director for the Carlyle Group. Carlyle Group associates, past and present, include former president George H. W. Bush, his former secretary of state and consiglieri James Baker, former U.K. prime minister John Major, billionaire George Soros, former secretary of defense Frank Carlucci and Shafig bin Laden, brother of you-know-who.

Riverstone and Carlyle partnered up with U.S. Renewables to buy up both Santa Rosa&–based ThermaSource, which provides worldwide geothermal drilling services, and the newly restored Bottle Rock geothermal plant located at The Geysers in Lake County.

For relaxation, David Leuschen kicks back at his Switchback Ranch, 200,000 acres abutting Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming. But don’t think this means Leuschen’s some soft-headed enviro-nut. Nosiree, he’s a former partner at what the NPR show Marketplace calls “the granddaddy of investment banking,” Goldman Sachs.

Leuschen founded and later headed up Goldman Sachs’ Global Energy and Power Group, advised Mobil on its merger with Exxon and, according to the Carlyle Group, “was responsible for establishing and managing the firm’s relationships with senior executives from leading companies in all segments of the energy and power industry.” These companies, in addition to Exxon-Mobil, include Kuwait Petroleum, Chevron, BP Amoco, Unocal, Anadarko Petroleum, Kinder Morgan, and Phillips, to name but a few.

While Leuschen may dabble in geothermal, solar and ethanol, he’s stuffed to the gills with fossil-fuel investments, including lots of dirty coal-fired plants. “Our first obligation to our investors is to make money,” Leuschen told BusinessWeek in 2006, “and I wouldn’t have initially considered renewable energy the best place to make money.” In other words, damn the environment, full carbon ahead!

And now, back to Hollywood.

Mideast war rages across an obsolete cathode ray tube. U.S. homelanders take it in the shorts as gas hits six bucks a gallon. It’s us true-blue, freedom-lovin’ patriots against them schmarmy A-rabs again, and we’re jonesin’ bad to score their cheap sweet crude. Condor Oil, the high-powered energy firm with ties to the White House, steps in with the fix: a dubious-sourced petrol flood from Kazakhstan.

Meanwhile, star investment banker Tom Hanson (Christian Slater channeling David Leuschen?) from Delaney & Strong (read: Goldman Sachs), “the most prestigious firm on Wall Street,” seduces cute kung-fu tree-hugger Abbey Gallagher (Selma Blair) over to the corporate dark side, from whence, Hanson reminds us, all sensible environmental protections and alternative green-energy breakthroughs are conceived, designed and implemented.

By the film’s end, our shining knight has throttled the Russian mafia, resurrected his embattled firm, exposed corporate malfeasance, nailed the girl, saved the nation’s honor and mused over how he got here from art school—before dramatic irony knocks him from his idealistic perch, thus restoring the rational cynic in him. Anyway, that’s The Deal.

Ring of Fire

The David M. Leuschen&–invested Geysers are actually fumaroles, meaning the hot fumes they emit are mostly dry steam. The Geysers are tied into both the volcanic and seismic systems of the Pacific Ring of Fire. Volcanics provide the thermal, supraheating permeable rock beneath the earth’s crust, while the millions of gallons of treated wastewater shot down The Geysers’ injection wells periodically provoke earthquakes.

For at least 10 millennia, aboriginal peoples came here for medicinal and spiritual R&R. During the American Era, these 30 square miles of billowing hot plumes, mud pots and “radium and arsenic” hot springs were used for a series of commercial resort ventures. Mark Twain, J. P. Morgan, Ulysses S. Grant, P. T. Barnum, the future King Edward VII, William Jennings Bryan, Teddy Roosevelt and Italian revolutionary Giuseppe Garibaldi were a few of its many famous visitors.

In 1921, gravel-pit owner and Healdsburg native J. D. Grant realized that The Geysers could be harnessed to generate electricity for local communities. Famed horticulturist Luther Burbank ponied up as an investor. But Grant’s initial stab at tapping The Geysers’ electricity-producing potential proved a financial failure. Truth is, he just couldn’t compete with cheap fossil-fuel operations.

Two other local firms gave it a shot in the 1950s, but it took power behemoth PG&E to build the first “modern” geothermal electricity plant at The Geysers in 1960. Union Oil Company of California assumed operation of the steam fields in 1967. Sixteen years later, Union Oil morphed into a subsidiary of the newly formed Unocal, which eventually was acquired by Chevron.

The Geysers are only arguably a renewable “green” resource, though. Arguably renewable, because just like any sauna, keeping the rocks hot presents a challenge. Experts predict The Geysers’ heat will peter out in decades to come, even with judicious management of the resource.

Secondly, The Geysers are only arguably green, because while they emit far fewer toxins than oil or coal-fired facilities, they do spew steam that contains arsenic, chromium and copper. On the other hand, PG&E estimates a 1 million&–barrel oil savings for each 110 megawatts of power generated each year at The Geysers. With its current 750 megawatt output, that means The Geysers save the environment 7 million expended barrels of oil each year.

However, even combined with every other geothermal resource worldwide, geothermal presently delivers merely a drop in the terrestrial energy bucket, especially when compared to the open hydrants of fossil fuels pouring into today’s marketplace.

Some 22 separate power plants spread throughout The Geysers draw from nearly 400 production steam wells powering turbines generating sufficient electricity to keep the entire North Bay humming 24/7. While additional power plants are currently in the works, 19 of the 22 facilities presently online at The Geysers are owned and operated by Calpine Corp. However, Calpine, which recently emerged from Chapter 11 bankruptcy, is considered prime pluckin’s. Just this May, Calpine fended off a hostile takeover bid from rival indie producer, New Jersey&–based NRG, who, it is said, along with others, still has Calpine in its crosshairs.

The Fix-It Guy

I’m Winston Wolfe. I solve problems.

—Pulp Fiction

Problems, indeed. In Quentin Tarrantino’s famed edit-fest, underworld fix-it man Winston Wolfe, brilliantly portrayed by Harvey Keitel, directs cinema’s seminal no-bullshit, bust-a-gut, murder-scene scrub-a-dub. Once the crime’s bloody evidence has been hosed down and disposed of, so too away rides Wolfe like some lonesome celluloid cowboy riding off into the sunset—only this cowboy’s lonesomeness is attenuated by a trophy moll in tow.

Which leads us next to Geyser-capo number two, corporate turnaround specialist and soon-to-be ex&–Calpine CEO Robert P. May. May is the cucumber-cool corporate version of Winston Wolfe. And just like Mr. Wolfe, who cleans up the scene and moves on, Robert May will soon depart Calpine, doubtless to clean up yet another corporate mess somewhere not far over that angry investor-strewn horizon.

The past four years have been busy ones for May. He bailed out Richard Scrushy’s $2.7 billion accounting-fraud-wracked HealthSouth Corp. after five consecutive CFO’s pleaded guilty of involvement. May also resuscitated Microsoft billionaire Paul Allen’s Charter Communications before coming on board to shepherd Calpine through its Chapter 11 bankruptcy.

Aside from the Calpine mess, the Charter sitch seemed a particularly sticky wicket. May walked in following the indictment of four Charter Com execs, after the Better Business Bureau gave Charter two thumbs down and after both Consumer Reports and PC World suggested that Charter’s media services ratings lay beneath the industry’s metaphorical barrel bottom. All of this just months after Charter had pried open its coffers to settle a class action lawsuit dealing with shady financial reporting.

Still, Calpine couldn’t have been much of a cakewalk, either. The firm, founded in San Jose in 1984 with an initial investment of $1 million, shot straight to the top of the “cleaner” energy production heap, primarily by building and acquiring natural gas-fired power plants. In four short years, that million bucks turned into assets of $21 billion. Its 1996 IPO was the largest offering ever for an indie energy firm. By the year 2000, Calpine had 58 facilities pumping out 3,355 megawatts, enough juice to light up San Francisco, San Jose, Oakland and Sacramento, with java to spare.

The good times stopped dead with the California energy crisis of 2001, a downturn in the economy and the collapse of Enron. Still, by 2004, Calpine had soared to an 89 energy-plant portfolio, generating some 22,000 megawatts of electricity. But the writing was on the wall. Calpine stock, which traded for more than $50 a share in 2001, nose-dived to just over two bits (as in pennies) a share in 2005. It was time to fold the ole traders’ tent. On Dec. 20, 2005, Calpine sought Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection under the guidance and expertise of its new CEO, Robert P. May.

Get it straight, buster—I’m not here to say please, I’m here to tell you what to do, and if self-preservation is an instinct you possess, you’d better fucking do it and do it quick! I’m here to help. If my help’s not appreciated, then lots of luck, gentleman.

—Winston Wolfe in Pulp Fiction

Just a week and a day before filing its bankruptcy, the financially distraught Calpine named May its CEO. Energy deregulation, thanks to verminish members of Dick Cheney’s power-bud junta, had wrecked Calpine, just as they had wrecked both PG&E and California’s aptly-named pre-Governator Gray Davis. The state economy still listed from a mega-profitable surge (for some) of blackouts, brownouts, cutbacks and hyperaccelerated price hikes that financially haunt us to this very day.

May stepped in and worked his well-honed magic. Calpine reorganized, emerging from bankruptcy just this past January. Shortly afterward, with Calpine hosed down and ready to rock again, May announced he’d depart Calpine by year’s end.

In the meanwhile he’ll be advising Deutsche Bank about flat-earth investments, and John McCain about how to best serve corporatist interests, should the old fellow manage to find the keys to the White House. Under “Board Members Affiliated” with Robert May, BusinessWeek lists 121 such connections. These include, but are not limited to Procter & Gamble, U.S. Airways, Daimler, General Motors, Bayer, JPMorgan Chase, BASF and Hyundai.

Great & Powerful Oz

So an individual CEO, let’s say, may really care about the environment. In fact, since they have such extraordinary resources they can even devote some of their resources to that without violating their responsibility to be totally inhuman.

—Noam Chomsky

Oh, no, my dear, I . . . I’m a very good man—I’m just a very bad wizard.

—The Wizard of Oz

If David Leuschen and Robert May are capitalist archetypes, with Leuschen a Mr. Money Bags, initiating practices and funding projects that May, the Cleanup Guy, is invariably obliged to set right, then our third Geyser-guy, one Kenneth T. Derr, sits Humpty-Dump atop them both. Derr embodies just about everything a genuine corporate fat cat could ever hope to be. He’s the Wizard of Oz, CEO of Emerald City, that sparkling green place comprised of stone-precious folding green, and maybe even a skosh of environmental green, too—assuming it translates into more mounds of moolah.

Derr is the oldest and most prominently connected member of this troika of well-connected execs. Derr was named to Calpine’s board in 2001. He served as Calpine’s interim CEO until Bob May came aboard to guide them through bankruptcy.

Calpine founder Peter Cartwright got shit-canned in the wake of Cheney’s energy-industry imbroglio-cum-Enron debacle. The chairmanship of Calpine’s board was then, fittingly, handed over to the old oil dude, Derr. Derr resigned from the Calpine board late this last spring, his exit curiously coinciding with NRG’s hostile Calpine takeover bid.

But Calpine, once the nation’s largest independent, and one of the nation’s cleanest electricity providers, had to be small potatoes to Ken Derr. Consider that for 10 years, from 1989 to 1999, Derr was both CEO and chairman of the board at Chevron Corp.

But that’s just for starters. Derr’s a former board member at both AT&T and Potlatch Corp., is a member of the right-wing Hoover Institution’s Board of Overseers, a former chair of the American Petroleum Institute, sits on the Council on Foreign Relations, the National Petroleum Council, the Business Roundtable, the Basic Fund, the California Business Roundtable, belongs to the exclusive Pacific Union Club, the equally exclusive San Francisco Golf Club, the UCSF Foundation and the Orinda Country Club.

Derr’s pillaging for pachyderms include jaunts benefiting the George W. Bush for President Committee, Bush-Cheney ‘O4, the Friends of Giuliani Exploratory Committee, the Rudy Giuliani Presidential Committee and, when those last two lost traction, Derr sidled up to John McCain.

Derr’s Chevron tenure was marked by grand success and not a few dark controversies. “Better than the best” was Derr’s motto. Some tagged him a “philosopher king.” Others called him a polluter and human-rights violator.

With Ken Derr at the helm, Chevron shifted emphasis from domestic to foreign petrol acquisitions, selling off two-thirds of its domestic gas and oil holdings. By shifting primary oil acquisitions from domestic to international fields, Chevron skirted EPA restrictions that otherwise would have cut into profits. He instituted a hard-driving informality into Chevron’s button-down corporate culture, carved up sheeps’ heads to get at oil in Kazakhstan, and pulled focus on Kuwait’s Burgan Field, the second largest oil repository in the entire world.

Destiny Road

Back where I come from there are men who do nothing all day but good deeds. They are called phila . . . er, phila . . . er, yes, er—Good Deed Doers!

—The Wizard of Oz

Ken Derr is known for his philanthropic efforts. He co-chairs the Committee to Encourage Corporate Philanthropy and has even shared the stage with renowned bleeding heart Paul Newman. Perhaps someday we’ll see Derr holding hands with Bono. But before getting all misty-eyed and blubbery, consider Derr’s May 28, 1998, exchange at the annual Chevron stockholders’ meeting with Democracy Now! host Amy Goodman. Goodman inquired whether Derr would ask the Nigerian dictator to halt Chevron-abetted murders of anti-Chevron protesters. Derr’s response? A curt “No.”

But recent news tied to Iraq War #2 show how another Kenneth Derr quote still resonates with the U.S. corporate state. Addressing San Francisco’s Commonwealth Club on Nov. 5, 1988, Derr famously said, “Iraq possesses huge reserves of oil and gas—reserves I’d love Chevron to have access to.” It took 20 years to accomplish, but, judging from recent Iraqi government pronouncements, who can deny corporate inertia über alles?

Before leaving Derr, perhaps we should touch on two board memberships he currently holds. First there’s Citigroup, named by Forbes as the world’s largest company. Citigroup has a market value of a quarter of a trillion dollars. It tallied almost $22 billion in net profits on revenues of $147 billion last year, and its assets clock in at close to $2 trillion.

And finally there’s this little Dubai-based company called Halliburton. Derr sits on that board of directors, too. Much could be hammered into this, but with Halliburton being such a wide-body target, it feels rather unsportsmanlike to do so.

So, yes, even obscure, innocuous and fairly clean energy resources like The Geysers tend to be controlled by the very corporatists whose greedy, polluting ways necessitated we stage a green revolution in the first place. And by continuing to destroy life on this planet, these folk actually enhance the eventual worth of their heretofore minor or even purposely suppressed alternative-energy investments.

Pessimism aside, the question remains whether we should continue placing both our common resources (tax monies) as well as our personal resources into the hands of corporate-energy providers.

Which leads us finally here, to that next grand fork down Destiny Road.

“Now which way do we go?”

“Pardon me, this way is a very nice way.”

“Who said that?”

(dog barks)

“Don’t be silly, Toto. Scarecrows don’t talk.”

“It’s pleasant down that way, too.”

“That’s funny. Wasn’t he pointing the other way?”

“Of course” (Scarecrow extends both arms) , “some people do go both ways.”

 


Wine Tasting Room of the Week

0


K-J being everywhere, everyone’s familiar with the family-owned empire that set the standard for widely available, quality coastal California varietal wine, and whose success even inspired slumbering industry giants to turn a new leaf. Why make a special trip here, in the center of Kingdom Jackson? It turns out, it’s not so much the wine, although K-J pours mainly limited releases, not just the bread-and-butter vintner’s reserve, at two local tasting rooms, where the motto is “a taste of the truth.” The truth is, one’s better off to skip Healdsburg and spring instead for the gastronomic flight in Fulton. Yes, it’s about the food.

The original owner built this landmark chateau, which K-J acquired in 1996, to specifications that would make Marie Antoinette feel perfectly at home sipping Chardonnay with her cake. Under the grand ceiling, visitors may opt for a $5 tasting, browse gifts and get dizzy watching a plasma wide-screen video-rama that swoops roller-coaster-style over lush green vineyards. On its surface, the center offers an enhanced suite of tasting-room standbys. But take a walk around, and find that the grounds are an authentic gourmet-locavore showcase.

Look over here: the wine center hosts a demonstration vineyard planted by SRJC; over there, find a renowned two-acre culinary garden that provides herbs and veggies for a special wine and food pairing, along with regional products like Liberty duck and CK Lamb, served up by talented chefs from the local scene. They even whip up a vegetarian plate that mirrors the flavors of the meaty treats.

Road-weary tourists expecting a meal may make a frowny face when presented with the artful tray of micro meals. I feast my eyes on the intricately detailed amuse-bouche, and note the transformation that accompanies the well-matched battery of wine pours. For instance, though I am not at first won over by Chardonnay from the regular tasting, the butterscotchy 2006 Camelot Highlands Chardonnay ($25) adds another dimension of delight to the Lilliputian pitcher of potato and fennel vichyssoise. And the 2007 Grand Reserve Malbec Rosé ($18), marginally too sweet for my taste on its own, cuts nicely through the neutral-flavored richness of cured California sturgeon, enlivened by spicy garden-fresh radishes.

The varietally solid 2005 Seco Highlands Pinot Noir’s ($35) brooding dark berry and twiggy riparian notes perfectly douse a smoky whiff of duck pastrami, served with microgreens and strawberry mostarda on a bruschetta. Fortunately the brighter, juicier 2004 Hawkeye Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon ($55) is served with the medium rare (and not at all gamey) lamb tenderloin with chimichurri; the 2004 Trace Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon’s ($55) has a dry palate of black cherry and tobacco that calls for chocolate truffle. If this is a taste of the truth, I’ll take a bottle of veracity.

Kendall-Jackson Wine Center, 5007 Fulton Road, Fulton. Open daily, 10am–5pm. Tastings only, $5-$15; food and wine pairing, $25. Sept. 6, Kendall-Jackson presents the 12th annual Heirloom Tomato Festival, featuring over 150 varieties of tomatoes grown in its culinary gardens. 707.571.8100.



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