Out of the Fog

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There was a time when Fogline Vineyards co-owner Evan Pontoriero was no wine geek. Like a lot of us, Pontoriero bought wine at the store to go with dinner, and that was that. Then one day, a colleague invited him to help pick grapes in Geyserville for a home winemaking hobby. When he smelled the aroma of fermentation steaming from the vat, everything changed.

“It was just like in Ratatouille,” Pontoriero says, “when [Anton Ego] tastes the stew and it brings him back to his mother.” Pontoriero was brought back to memories of his grandfather, who always made a little wine in his garage in Pennsylvania. Pontoriero, too, became a home winemaker and confirmed wine geek who has, for instance, an opinion on the Dijon clones of Pinot Noir. With business partner Brent Bessire, he made the jump into commercial winemaking in 2009 after leaving his job at Pixar.

Yes, I said, “after leaving his job at Pixar.” As a computer animator, Pontoriero worked on Star Wars at Skywalker Ranch, and on the 2007 computer-animated hit Ratatouille at Pixar. It’s an enviable career, but the downside was sitting behind a computer for years on end. With one hit of grapey ferment, Pontoriero says, “it’s like I’d found home.”

After a few peripatetic years in custom crush cellars, Bessire and Pontoriero got a tip on a long-vacant winery with an interesting history and crazy good visibility, just off 101. Some may remember this as the Farmery, an organic produce stand in the 1990s; it was built for Fulton Valley Cellars in 1984, with Joseph Swan’s Rod Berglund as winemaker. Now it’s owned by a neighboring church, and Fogline set up shop in 2014.

The partners also planted an estate vineyard situated at 850 feet on Sonoma Mountain, just where the fog tops out—hence, the name. The 2014 Zephyr’s Block Sonoma Coast Chardonnay ($38) was barrel-fermented with a strain of malolactic bacteria that does not produce the byproduct diacetyl, which lends many Chardonnays that characteristic “buttered popcorn” aroma, and gives Pontoriero a headache. The Zephyr’s Block has an appealing aroma that suggests lemon flower honey, and shows up a lot of the so-called no-oak Chardonnays.

Scented like orange peel, with a red cherry savor that’s brightened by citrusy acidity, the 2012 Hillside Estate Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($65) is joined on the roster by darker, lush Pinots from purchased fruit. Sweet-toothed Zin lovers are welcome, too, with the 2014 Sonoma County Old Vine Zinfandel ($35), while the experimental 2015 Flora may leave you thirsty for more.

Fogline Vineyards, 875 River Road, Fulton. Open daily, 11am–5pm. Tasting fee, $10–$15. 707.636.4415.

Office Space

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Swimmers, by Rachel Bonds, is a gorgeously poetic play about that specific form of crushing loneliness that can only be felt in the presence of other people, and it’s beautifully performed by a large company of 11 actors.

Presented by Marin Theatre Company and directed with detailed precision and immense humanity by Mike Donahue, the play is structured as an interconnected series of scenes taking place on the same day, each on a different floor of a large office building.

Tom (Aaron Roman Weiner), begins his morning cowering in the basement in the grip of a full-on existential emergency. The custodian, Walter (L. Peter Callender), juggles a series of casual conversations with various tasks. Vivian (Kristin Villanueva) nervously starts a new job in a new department. Over the course of the play, other workers appear, talking but rarely connecting—until suddenly, in an unexpected place, some of them actually do.

The documentary-level realness of the performances becomes a perfectly unified mechanism for carrying Bonds’ remarkable dialogue and persistent ideas. As a writer, she accomplishes a lot with what might seem to be very little, and in so doing, leaves a ripple of strong emotions, both devastating and gently hopeful, in the wake of her words.

Saying Goodbye to Jim DePriest

When word spread earlier this month that Jim DePriest had died at 79 there were those in the Sonoma County theater community who expressed more than just shock and sadness. To many, the tireless actor and director had given the impression that he might never die, so relentless was his commitment to local theater.

“It’s just so sad,” says Diane Bailey, a longtime collaborator of DePriest’s from back in the days when the Sonoma County Repertory Theater ran two theaters, one in Sebastopol (where Main Stage West now operates) and the other in downtown Santa Rosa, now business offices.

“Jim loved theater so much,” says Bailey, who has relocated back to Sebastopol after founding Theater Anew in San Francisco, “and Jim’s love of this art form was truly inspiring to many, many local theater artists. He changed our lives.”

A tribute to DePriest has been planned for this Friday evening, March 25, at the Raven Performing Arts Center in downtown Healdsburg at 7pm. Attendees are encouraged to bring a bottle of wine and their stories of DePriest.

Additionally, Bailey says that the entire run of her upcoming Theater Anew production of “Three Viewings,” by Jeffrey Hatcher—running April 1 – 16 at Santa Rosa’s Church of the One Tree—is being dedicated to DePriest.

“Jim had a wicked sen

se of humor,” says Bailey, “and I think he’d appreciate having a play about a funeral be dedicated to his memory. It’s ironic, and he loved irony. He’d get a good laugh out of that.”

Furthermore, says Bailey, there are plans afoot to commission a memorial “Shakespeare Bench,” to be placed in DePriest’s honor somewhere in Sebastopol’s Ives Park. There, DePriest founded the Sonoma County Shakespeare Festival, which for many years provided lavish outdoor productions of Shakespeare’s plays.

A percentage of the box office receipts from “Three Viewings” will be given to the campaign, said Bailey. Go to theateranew.com for more information.

March 20: Ugly Tattoo Contest

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If you’ve got a regrettable Tazmanian devil tattoo or maybe an ill-rendered tramp-stamp, the second annual Ugly Tattoo Contest is for you. The inky gathering offers you the chance to turn that lame barbed-wire tattoo around your bicep into something positive. More than $1,000 in prizes are available, including a $400 tattoo cover-up from tattooist (and this week’s cover artist) Shotsie Gorman. There’s also live music from Half People, Dmitra and Pascal. The tattoo redemption happens on Sunday, March 20, at B&V Whiskey Bar & Grille, 400 First St. E., Sonoma. 6–9pm. 707.938.7110.

March 19: Crazy Cold Beautiful in Santa Rosa

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Crazy Cold Beautiful is a one-of-a-kind song cycle composed by Robin Eschner 
with the American Composers Forum. Performed by Take Jack and Orchestra and the Kitchen Choir, the show tells the history of sled-dog mushing in northern Minnesota—in song. The West Coast premiere will be conducted by Bay Area composer Omid Zoufonoun. Put on a parka and come to the Glaser Center on Saturday, March 19, at 3pm and 8pm. 547 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa. Tickets at crazycoldbeautiful.brownpapertickets.com. 

March 19: Bill Kortum Memorial Hike

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Bill Kortum was Sonoma County’s premier environmental activist. He was instrumental in stopping the nuclear power plant planned for Bodega Head. He also helped create the California Coastal Commission, which set limits on development along the entire California Coast. Bill passed away in 2014 after a long battle with prostate cancer. Celebrate his legacy at the second annual Bill Kortum Memorial Hike at Shell Beach for an easy 3.5-mile hike, March 19 at 11am. Contact prostateawarenessfoundation.org, or for more info.

March 26: SonoMusette in Santa rosa

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Following a sold-out show at the Occidental Center for the Arts, SonoMusette tap into 20th-century Paris with the songs of Edith Piaf, Jacques Brel and fellow Frenchmen (and women) with a spirited show at the Glaser Center on March 26 at 7:30pm. 547 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa. $15 in advance (Brownpapertickets.com/event/2508427) and $20 at the door.

All Together

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‘Ensemble” is one of those confusing words that can mean two different things.

Often used to describe the supporting members of a cast, singing and dancing behind the leads, “ensemble” also refers to a type of show in which the entire cast has more or less equal responsibility in creating the world in which the story takes place. The 25th Annual Putnam County Spelling Bee, presented by Marin Onstage and running through April 2, is one of two such new shows.

Directed with conspicuous glee by Pat Nims, Spelling Bee features a committed cast playing adorably misfit middle-school spelling competitors. Aided by some clever audience participation, it plays out like The Hunger Games crossed with Revenge of the Nerds.

Standouts in the nine-actor cast include Arielle Mandelberg as the lonely, dictionary-loving Olive; Peter Carroll as the oddball, cape-wearing Leaf Coneybear; and John Griffin as the lugubrious, hilariously eccentric William Barfee (he pronounces it “bar-fay”). Also quite strong are Amanda Morando as the spelling bee moderator Rona Lisa Peretti and Dell Parker as the community-service-mandated “comfort counselor” Mitch Mahoney.

It’s all good, goofy fun, a bit uneven musically and with a number of slightly clunky rough spots, but with an infectious energy that literally pulls the audience—volunteer spellers, that is—into its giddy, slightly skewed, entirely life affirming embrace.

Rating (out of 5): ★★★½

Anna in the Tropics, the gorgeously crafted 2003 Pulitzer Prize winner by Nilo Cruz, gets a stylish, lyrical, visually impressive staging at 6th Street Playhouse, buoyed by exceptional performances from Bronwen Shears, Armando Rey and Laura Sottile, standing out among a strong ensemble portraying immigrant workers in a cigar factory in 1930s Florida.

With an impressive, evocative set by Jesse Dreikosen, the story explores what happens when the newly hired lector, a traditional reader of novels to Cuban cigar makers, chooses to read Tolstoy’s Anna Karenina. That novel begins to affect the workers in powerful ways, unleashing hidden depths of jealousy, ambition and desire.

Though a bit undercooked in places, the ensemble does a fine job of bringing this forgotten world to vibrant life.
★★★★

‘The 25th Annual Putnam County Spelling Bee’ runs Friday–Saturday through April 2 at Belrose Theater, 1415 Fifth Ave., San Rafael. $10–$25. 415.448.6152 ‘Anna in the Tropics’
runs Thursday–Sunday through
March 26 at 6th Street Playhouse. 52 W. Sixth St., Santa Rosa. $15–$32. 707.523.4185.

Writers Picks: Family

Best
Foul-Mouthed Mommy Blogger

Sonoma County native and mother of four Janelle Hanchett was tired of the bullshit. Despite the endless amount of motherhood-based blogs and online forums, Hanchett struggled to find anyone writing about personal experiences that matched hers, and anyone willing to open up about the day-in, day-out challenges of parenting—in short, she struggled to find anyone who told the truth about the unrelenting task of raising kids.

So Hanchett decided to stop looking and start writing. In 2011, she founded the no-holds-barred Renegade Mothering blog to open up about the most taboo subjects surrounding motherhood. And she spares no expletives in her rants and inspirational tirades that rail against society’s sugarcoated view of what a mother is supposed to be.

Five years later, Renegade Mothering tops tens of thousands of views each month. Hanchett is the first to admit that she’s not everyone’s cup of tea, yet her diatribes about everything from asshole parents in restaurants to her own past battles with alcoholism (which earned Hanchett the BlogHer Voice of the Year Award in 2014) are increasingly seen as important conversation starters in a world where women often undertake motherhood alone and unsupported.

In addition to her fearless approach, Hanchett is a damn fine writer, and her sharp prose and acerbic point of view is as out-loud funny as it is biting. Currently working on her first book, Hanchett also leads online writing workshops, encouraging aspiring writers to stop worrying about what people think and write anyway. Hanchett’s next six-week workshop is scheduled for May 2016. www.renegademothering.com.—C.S.

Best Place for a Cold One While Someone Else does the cooking

Eating meals at home as a family is important, but it’s not always possible. Sometimes there just isn’t time. Or the fridge is empty. Or you just don’t feel like cooking and would rather have a beer and pay someone else to do it. When such circumstances occur, I head to Papas and Pollo. It’s cheap, the food is good and healthful (I’m a fan of the barbecued pork taco plate—$10 with rice, beans and salad), the kids can wander around and not bother anyone, and the beer is cold. You can bet the Warriors or Giants are on the telly, too. Once the weather dries up, the backyard, open-air patio—complete with lounge chairs set between raised vegetable beds and walk-up beer and food window—will be the place to be for some away-from-home family time and good food. 915 Gravenstein Hwy. S., Sebastopol. 707.829.9037.—S.H.

Best Place for Kids Who are Bouncing Off the Walls to Bounce Off Walls

Yes, we need the rain, but being cooped up makes the kids restless and the parents edgy. So here’s what you do: take your kids over to Flying Frog Academy in Rohnert Park. Instead of jumping off couches and bunkbeds, your kids can learn the ways of parcour. You know, parcour, the urban-born sport of jumping, leaping and flipping from ledges, walls and various obstacles. Flying Frog has taken the sport indoors and created a fun and safe environment for kids (and adults). They’ve got classes, camps and open gym hours. 215 Classic Ct., Rohnert Park. 707.292.8201.—S.H.

Best Claw-
Machine Game

In the casinos, you like to play the machines where the odds are pretty good that you’ll win—or not lose too much too fast. Casino junkies will get to know and hover around slot machines with a history of paying out on a consistent basis. There’s a corollary for kids and families in those popular claw-machine games. You know, the one where you put in a quarter and try to lift a worthless trinket with a crane-like claw. There’s a bunch of them in the North Bay, and if you hit these machines on a regular basis, you know that most of them are a total rip-off. You put in the quarter, and you can never grab the stupid toy. Before you know it, mom’s just blown half her paycheck, the kids are weeping, and it’s very sad. But here’s an insider’s tip: the machine at the Santa Rosa Kmart on Cleveland Avenue pays out on a pretty consistent basis—one toy for every $10 you waste, on average. That’s not a great return on your investment, but at least
no one’s crying. 3771 Cleveland Ave., Santa Rosa. 707.544.2245.—T.G.

Best Place to Refuse to Buy Your Kids New Clothes

One of the many things you can’t know about kids until you actually have some of your own is all the clothes you’ll need to buy for them. Those little buggers just keep outgrowing the pants and shoes you just bought for them, like, six months ago. Buying new clothes for kids is for suckers. Or for grandparents, in which case it’s fine. New socks and underwear are fine too, but I say it’s foolish to buy new clothes when you can get something perfectly good at a fraction of the price secondhand. It’s good for the wallet and for the planet. My favorite place for pre-owned kids’ clothes is Santa Rosa’s Wee Three. I was looking for snow boots for my daughter, and it made my day when Wee Three had just the pair I was looking for—at about $50 less than new. The store tries to carry only cotton and wool, which is cool because polyester stains, you know. When your kids do outgrow their clothes, march back into Wee Three and sell them back (the clothes, not the kids) so you can get some more. It’s a virtuous circle. 1007 W. College Ave., Santa Rosa. 707.525.933.—S.H.

Best Fun Adventure to Look Forward To,
with the Kids

The long-anticipated opening of the Sonoma-Marin Area Rail Transit (SMART) system is scheduled to go down late this year, and everybody’s freaking excited about it, for the most part. Who doesn’t love to ride a train, just for the pleasure of riding a train? Kids love that stuff, and so does dad. So put it on the calendar for your Christmas break 2016 plans: you are going to ride that train. It’ll take some work, perhaps. You’ll have to pry junior away from his beloved Thomas the Tank Engine sets, and might have to inform the kids that the “Little Choo-Choo That Can” is a stupid, unrealistic story. What’s not stupid is the SMART train—your best bet for a low-cost adventure on the rails awaits. Just don’t let the kids put their feet on those new SMART train seats.—T.G.

Best Of Sonoma and Napa 2016: Heroes

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Every year at the Bohemian, we put on our thinking caps to come up with a new and novel way to present our annual Best Of issue, our biggest of the year. The issue celebrates what we think are the best people, places and things in Sonoma and Napa counties. And it’s not just what we think, it’s what you think. The issue reveals the results of our annual readers’ poll, who and what you think makes the North Bay so great.

This year, we settled on the theme of “Heroes,” in the classic Greek sense of the term. Our fantastic cover art and inside illustrations were painted by Shotsie Gorman, an enormously talented Sonoma County tattoo artist. The cover image depicts Athena, the Greek goddess of wisdom, the arts, civilization, courage and inspiration. Since our Best Of issue is a celebration of all the creative people and inspirational places and businesses in our corner of the world, we thought Athena was perfect for the cover. Inside, Shotsie drew gods and goddesses to represent our six Best Of categories—Culture, Food and Drink, Recreation, Romance, Family and Everyday. With a nod to the late David Bowie, congratulations to everyone who won a Best Of award this year, and thanks to everyone who voted. You’re the heroes who make the North Bay what it is. And thanks, too, to our writers for this issue, Tom Gogola, James Knight, Charlie Swanson and Flora Tsapovsky.

Stett Holbrook, editor

If you’re an award winner, click here for a printable PDF of your award.

Out of the Fog

There was a time when Fogline Vineyards co-owner Evan Pontoriero was no wine geek. Like a lot of us, Pontoriero bought wine at the store to go with dinner, and that was that. Then one day, a colleague invited him to help pick grapes in Geyserville for a home winemaking hobby. When he smelled the aroma of fermentation steaming...

Office Space

Swimmers, by Rachel Bonds, is a gorgeously poetic play about that specific form of crushing loneliness that can only be felt in the presence of other people, and it's beautifully performed by a large company of 11 actors. Presented by Marin Theatre Company and directed with detailed precision and immense humanity by Mike Donahue, the play is structured as an...

Saying Goodbye to Jim DePriest

When word spread earlier this month that Jim DePriest had died at 79 there were those in the Sonoma County theater community who expressed more than just shock and sadness. To many, the tireless actor and director had given the impression that he might never die, so relentless was his commitment to local theater. “It’s just so sad,” says...

March 20: Ugly Tattoo Contest

If you’ve got a regrettable Tazmanian devil tattoo or maybe an ill-rendered tramp-stamp, the second annual Ugly Tattoo Contest is for you. The inky gathering offers you the chance to turn that lame barbed-wire tattoo around your bicep into something positive. More than $1,000 in prizes are available, including a $400 tattoo cover-up from tattooist (and this...

March 19: Crazy Cold Beautiful in Santa Rosa

Crazy Cold Beautiful is a one-of-a-kind song cycle composed by Robin Eschner  with the American Composers Forum. Performed by Take Jack and Orchestra and the Kitchen Choir, the show tells the history of sled-dog mushing in northern Minnesota—in song. The West Coast premiere will be conducted by Bay Area composer Omid Zoufonoun. Put on a parka and come to the Glaser...

March 19: Bill Kortum Memorial Hike

Bill Kortum was Sonoma County’s premier environmental activist. He was instrumental in stopping the nuclear power plant planned for Bodega Head. He also helped create the California Coastal Commission, which set limits on development along the entire California Coast. Bill passed away in 2014 after a long battle with prostate cancer. Celebrate his legacy at the second annual Bill...

March 26: SonoMusette in Santa rosa

Following a sold-out show at the Occidental Center for the Arts, SonoMusette tap into 20th-century Paris with the songs of Edith Piaf, Jacques Brel and fellow Frenchmen (and women) with a spirited show at the Glaser Center on March 26 at 7:30pm. 547 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa. $15 in advance (Brownpapertickets.com/event/2508427) and $20 at the door.

All Together

'Ensemble" is one of those confusing words that can mean two different things. Often used to describe the supporting members of a cast, singing and dancing behind the leads, "ensemble" also refers to a type of show in which the entire cast has more or less equal responsibility in creating the world in which the story takes place. The 25th...

Writers Picks: Family

Best Foul-Mouthed Mommy Blogger Sonoma County native and mother of four Janelle Hanchett was tired of the bullshit. Despite the endless amount of motherhood-based blogs and online forums, Hanchett struggled to find anyone writing about personal experiences that matched hers, and anyone willing to open up about the day-in, day-out challenges of parenting—in short, she struggled to find anyone who told...

Best Of Sonoma and Napa 2016: Heroes

Every year at the Bohemian, we put on our thinking caps to come up with a new and novel way to present our annual Best Of issue, our biggest of the year. The issue celebrates what we think are the best people, places and things in Sonoma and Napa counties. And it's not just what we think, it's what...
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