Renters Rights

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The fires that ravaged Sonoma County created havoc in a community already stressed by too little and too expensive housing. People were already leaving—I know quite a few—but now we are faced with a mass exodus of the very people who make this county work: its labor force, its young families and those who should feel secure at the end of life, its seniors.

In a county with a less than 1 percent vacancy rate, we lost more than 6,000 housing units. This increases the temptation for landlords to evict tenants and raise rents. Government understands this and has included protections against price-gouging in its emergency declaration. District Attorney Jill Ravitch has said she will aggressively prosecute those who violate those new regulations.

But now we’re beginning to hear from people who have been threatened with eviction or with rent increases, who are afraid to speak up because of fears of retaliation. The California Apartments Association, the group which spent so much money to defeat a limited rent control measure in Santa Rosa, has written to the Santa Rosa City Council questioning the legitimacy of some of the anti–price gouging measures.

It’s a precarious time for Sonoma County residents who are sleeping on the couches of friends and family. The county has an already seriously underserved population—the homeless—and now there’s a threat that some of the newly homeless could become permanently so.

In response, the Green Party of Sonoma County, the Peace & Justice Center of Sonoma County, the Community Action Coalition and members of several groups have come together to organize a series of “Conversations Around the Fire.” The first conversation will bring representatives from Legal Aid of Sonoma County and the county Counsel’s Office to help tenants understand their rights. There will also be a discussion of homelessness before, during and after the fires, as well as information about monetary aid. This will be followed by time to discuss organizing for mutual support and to exchange fire stories.

“Conversations Around the Fire: Renters’ Rights in a Disaster Zone” will take place on Monday, Nov. 27, from 6pm to 8pm at Christ Church United Methodist, 1717 Yulupa Ave., Santa Rosa. The event is free and childcare available. Call 707.889.3021 for information.

Susan Lamont is a local peace and social justice activist, writer and artist who retired this year from the Peace & Justice Center of Sonoma County.

To have your topical essay of 350 words considered for publication, write op*****@******an.com.

Letters to the Editor: November 22, 2017

Hats Off

Thank you for your reliable coverage throughout the terrible crisis of the firestorm, as well as your consistently fine writing on the disaster. Like other issues such as homelessness and mental illness, this will prove to be one of the central ongoing issues of this region. I applaud your commitment to keeping a tight focus on reporting on it, even as time passes and the initial wounds begin to heal. Our recovery, as so many have observed, will take a long, long time.

Santa Rosa

Pencil Wizard

The Bohemian should be commended for its great track record of using the work of local artists and illustrators for its cover art and giving up-and coming-artists a public viewing. However, it may have overlooked a pencil wizard who has been active in the West County for nearly 40 years. The name of this versatile artist is Michael Fisher. Maybe you’ve seen one of his calendars in the mail recently. Check out his cartoon blog Aldo & Me (aldome.wordpress.com) to get a true sense of his illustrating range.

Monte Rio

Devil Weed

Sonoma County has no idea what it is asking for with cannabis tourism (“On the Bus,” Nov. 15). Even the very word “cannabis” has real evil in it.

Pot is a drug. It is not medicinal. It causes complete indifference in its users, and can lead to death when smoked in heavy quantities. I don’t care what is happening to our “progressive” society. Drugs are evil. Pot, meth, heroin, cocaine and on and on are all inherently evil.

There will be even more problems here in Sonoma County with accidental deaths among our youth, as well as among long-term users. “Cannabis,” that evil word, is going to cause more problems than it is worth. Taxing it only allows more evil and tolerance among people who do not truly believe in God Almighty. God would be the very first one to tell you how evil pot is and that it truly does come from the evil one.

Our society continues to go too far with legalizing controversial issues from the 1960s. And we will all pay the price. Just watch and wait.

Santa Rosa

Baloney

I find the article written by Ari LeVaux (“Alt Turkey,” Nov. 15) very contradictory toward vegetarians and vegans who choose what we eat based on health, animal welfare, environment, etc. To say vegetarians miss turkey once or twice a year and bacon every day is a ridiculous and a foolish statement. Cooking tofu with bacon for a vegetarian? Absurd! I doubt your vegetarian friends will melt in a vat of ignorant bliss. No vegetarian will be begging for your bacon grease secret. Please include thoughtful, educated articles in your newspaper, not garbage such as this.

Santa Rosa

Write to us at le*****@******an.com.

Weighing Options

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It’s a busy Thursday morning in Coffey Park as the debris cleanup is in full effect.

Workers in white protective suits are clearing out home sites throughout the wasteland where some 1,300 homes were destroyed in the October Tubbs fire. The sound of beeping trucks backing up fills the air, as heavy front-loaders are making piles of trashed cars and all sorts of rugged equipment is rolling around the streets.

Numerous sites have been cleared in the mass cleanup underway. They await new foundations and the first swing of a hammer into a two-by-four to signal that the rebuilding is afoot. Throughout Coffey Park, sites have gotten the federal Environmental Protection Agency seal-of-approval, signified by a laminated certification of safety on the front lawn.

Coffey Park is coming back—except in front of the former home at 1613 Kerry Lane, where homeowner Dan Bradford has been waiting for city approval of a private cleanup and rebuilding plan submitted days after the fire by his Lake County–based contractor-friend Mark Mitchell.

Bradford is one of more than 300 residents split between the city and county who have so far “opted out” of the cleanup that’s being undertaken by contractors working under a federal-state umbrella that includes the Federal Emergency Management Agency and the state Office of Emergency Services, and overseen locally by city and county officials. But Bradford had good insurance and an experienced contractor ready to go just days after the fire, and didn’t want to go through the time-consuming rigamarole of the opt-in plan. Bradford thought the opt-out would expedite his rebuilding process; instead, it slowed it down.

Homeowners who lost their property to the fire, approximately 5,100 in the county, have until Nov. 22 to either opt-in or opt-out with the mass cleanup already well underway. Bradford didn’t sign up and doesn’t plan to. He just wants the city to approve his contractor’s debris-removal plan and his rebuilding plan, and as of last Friday, he did get some good news from the city: they’d approved his debris removal plan. Now comes his rebuilding plan, which has not yet been approved.

It remains to be seen what will happen if the remaining noncompliant residents blow past the Nov. 22 date and the hold-outs don’t opt-in to the program. Sonoma County Supervisor James Gore says nobody will be forced into any abatement program on Nov. 23 or forced to sign up with the sanctioned cleanup plan if they don’t want to, despite the Nov. 22 deadline.

The hope is that the debris cleanup will be completed by the end of the year. But as of Nov. 22, more than homeowners out of the 5,100 burned out in the city and county still had not signed up at all. Hundreds had opted out, including Bradford, only to wait for city and county bureaucracies to catch up with their own debris-cleanup plans and set up a process for them. The city started reviewing and approving (or rejecting) opt-out plans on Nov. 13, according to emails from Santa Rosa City Manager Sean McGlynn. The debris removal was well underway by the time Bradford got his approval on
Nov. 18.

According to the numbers provided by the joint county-city information center, as of the morning of Nov. 22, 188 county property owners had opted out; 139 city property owners had gone that route, including Bradford. There were 229 parcels on city land, and 381 on county land, that did not have the necessary “right to enter” paperwork filed, or hadn’t signed on to the debris removal plan.

Nobody, says Gore, will be able to rebuild anything in Coffey Park until all the sites have that EPA sign in the front yard. That’s to make sure contractors aren’t laboring in toxic work sites. The EPA sign-off is a requirement for everyone, Bradford included, whether they opted in or opted out of the debris cleanup.

Bradford, who is 60, was burned out of his home on the morning of Oct. 8 and escaped with his two dogs. He’s a respiratory therapist at Santa Rosa Memorial Hospital who lost his wife, Vicki, two years ago. Bradford has been living in a Rincon Valley rental and has taken a two-month leave from work to sort out the details of his rebuilding. He considers himself among the lucky.

“You really have to stay on top of the phone calls—you can’t miss a call,” Bradford says of the process. He returned to work for a couple of days after the fires but realized he couldn’t put his patients first if he was always waiting for that critical call from the insurance company. Bradford is not the suing type and says with a smile that the fires were an act of God. He’s not jumping on to any PG&E legal action around the fire and what might have caused it. He just wants to get back into his house, with his dogs, as quickly as possible—and wonders what the hang-up is and why the city gave citizens the chance to opt-out without having a process in place to deal with people like him who went that route.

“It takes a toll,” says Bradford of the emotional stress of being displaced and caught in the bureaucratic shuffle. “I’ve been trying to maintain some type of normalcy, but it’s hard for people who are displaced. That’s all the more reason to rebuild quickly.” A newcomer to Coffey Park, Bradford says his heart goes out to longtime residents who were burned out.

To add insult to the injury of losing his home, someone stole the undamaged metal mailbox from Bradford’s front yard. He laughs and shrugs about it as Mitchell pulls up in his truck. Mitchell, who owns Lake County Contractors, has been through this before—he’s still going through it in Lake County. He rebuilt 31 houses destroyed in the 2015 Lake County fires, including, he says, the first one that went up after the firestorm.

He’s eager to be the first guy swinging a hammer in Sonoma County, too, as he and Bradford take in all the surrounding activity and wonder why they can’t be a part of the action. A who’s who of big-dollar contractors from around the region—those Ghilotti Brothers trucks are hard to miss—are hard at work on the cleanup, while Bradford’s left to contemplate his patch of black grass with his hands in his pockets.

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The recent rain has brought with it the jarring vision of small square patches of very bright green grass popping up amid the charred ruins. That’s a hopeful sign, but a bigger one will come once construction starts.

“People have to have hope,” Mitchell says as he recounts the scene in Lake County when his crew started building their first house. People were driving by and applauding, thanking the workers, dropping off 12-packs of beer. “There’s nothing like it,” he says.

Bradford says if it weren’t for Mitchell’s quick call to him after the fire, he might have made other immediate plans, such as leaving the region entirely. There’s concern over a potential “brain drain” in Sonoma County as a result of the fires, and Mitchell highlights that the more frustrated people get with bureaucracy, the more likely they are to take their insurance settlement and buy or build somewhere else.

Bradford toyed with the idea himself but was taken by Mitchell’s plan for a quick rebuild.

“First, when it came to my big decision to rebuild or not, I was able to get a hold of Mark,” says Bradford, “and he was really positive and enthusiastic about a quick rebuild and I said, that’s the way to go. If not for Mark and the speed of his rebuilding [plan], I probably would have done something different.”

The problem, as Bradford and Mitchell describe it, is that even as the city and county were setting a deadline for people to opt-in to the mass cleanup, the process for those who chose to opt-out was not fully in place, if at all, until recently.

“I’ve got trusses coming in 30 days,” says Mitchell, but no building permits to go with them. If not for the opt-out bureaucratic hold-up, Mitchell says he’d have cleared the debris and been well-prepared for rapid rebuilding of the Bradford home.

Gore says he understands the urgency of Bradford’s situation, and that Mitchell is not alone in wanting to be the first man to rebuild. He cites a constituent who has an “insatiable desire to rebuild, and I want to help him.” In the endgame of a rebuilt Sonoma County, Gore says enthusiastically that he’d like to see not just 5,100 houses rebuilt, but a fresh batch of 20,000 on top of those in the county.

But it starts with just one, and Mitchell hoped it would be the Bradford house. Gore says Bradford has a legitimate point in highlighting the price of opting out of the FEMA cleanup. The last thing the county or city needs now is bad faith around bureaucracy, “which can never, ever get in the way of rebuilding,” he says.

“We cannot make the private option seem to be infeasible in order to force them into it,” says Gore. “That is not what the process is for, and it’s not what we are doing.”

The bureaucratic lag at Bradford’s property highlights that there’s a massive recovery process afoot with huge numbers to account for—$7.2 billion in damage, up to 9,000 jobs evaporated in the region, 43 deaths—while also being, says Gore, a human story with individual victims such as Bradford deserving of one-on-one attention from their local government. There’s already been one fire-related suicide at the site of a burned-out home.

Lake County Supervisor Rob Brown has offered some advice to Gore as the county struggles out from under the ash. Brown has had numerous interactions with Mitchell and says that he’s trying to do the right thing and that he’s passionate about being that first guy on the scene of a disaster with the hammer.

Brown also notes the value of remaining patient in the face of a process that can be frustrating. Before any new homes are built in the North Bay, Brown says he has stressed to Gore the importance of prioritizing the completion of pre-existing infrastructure projects (the emphasis in Sonoma County will be on fixing the roads,
says Gore) and making sure municipalities have hired building officials for when the rebuilding plans start to come hard and fast.

Two years after the fires, Lake County is still hiring staff, Brown says. Of an approximate 1,300 houses destroyed, Brown says around 350 have been rebuilt and 500 have been permitted over two years.

“Two years” is the most-bandied-about timeline for when people blown out by the North Bay fires will return to rebuilt homes. Mitchell’s goal was to shorten that timeline for Bradford, but the city only started approving the opt-out plans as of Nov. 13. He’s already behind schedule for his opt-out client, even as the opt-in house across the street from Bradford’s has been cleared of debris and awaits a new foundation, and a new lease on life.

Two Squared

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Two-hander. It’s a funny term, meaning a play with two actors. Currently, two different two-handers are running in Sonoma County, proving exactly how much range and variation these plays can have.

At Left Edge Theatre, Stephen Sachs’ Bakersfield Mist is a witty, coarse and brutal dark comedy set in a Bakersfield mobile home. It clocks in at a super-brisk 79 minutes, with no intermission. Co-directed by Kimberly Kalember and Argo Thompson, the play concerns Maude Gutman (Sandra Ish), a foul-mouthed, ex-bartender divorcée, and Lionel Percy (Mike Pavone), an arrogant, condescending art expert who’s convinced Maude has discovered an authentic Jackson Pollock painting in a local thrift store.

Both actors are equally excellent—a necessity in a show with only two performers—and the co-directors, showing a keen facility for this kind of ugly-funny confrontation, keep the action moving through sharp, often deadly comedy and escalating mystery, to remarkably personal drama and a satisfyingly ambiguous climax.

Rating (out of 5): ★★★★

Main Stage West’s Daddy Long Legs is in many ways the opposite of Bakersfield Mist: a lush, nostalgic, sentimentally romantic musical (by Jane Eyre‘s Paul Gordon and Les Misérable‘s John Caird), slightly overstuffed at two hours, two minutes (including an intermission) but absolutely dripping with sweetness and charm.

Based on the classic 1912 novel by Jean Webster, this 2009 gem, imaginatively and sensitively directed by Elly Lichenstein, is told mainly through correspondence between the spirited Jerusha Abbott (a superb Madison Genovese), who sings the autobiographical “Oldest Orphan in the John Grier Home,” and Jervis Pendleton (Tyler Costin), the titular “Daddy Long Legs,” a wealthy, anonymous benefactor who funds Abbott’s college education and dreams of becoming an author.

With lovely offstage orchestration from a live ensemble, this openhearted, unorthodox two-hander proves, with beautiful tunes and a soaring, if improbable love story, that less can sometimes be much, much more. ★★★★½

‘Bakersfield Mist’ runs through Dec. 2 at Left Edge Theatre. 50 Mark West Springs Road, Santa Rosa. Thursday–Saturday, 8pm; 2pm and 5pm matinee, Sunday, Nov. 26, and Saturday,
Dec. 2. $25–$40. 707.546.3600. ‘Daddy Long Legs’ runs Thursday–Sunday through Dec. 10 at Main Stage West, 104 N. Main St., Sebastopol. Thursday–Saturday, 8pm; matinee, Sunday at 5pm. $15–$30. 707.823.0177.

Finding Truth

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Dark and drenched in reverb, the experimental psychedelic rock of Sonoma County trio the Drought Cult mixes dreamy hooks and fuzzed-out guitars for a lush gothic sound.

Formed and fronted by Santa Rosa native Francesco Echo, whose musical career began with high school band Girls in Suede and flourished recently with the John Courage Trio, the Drought Cult unleashed its sophomore EP,

The Truth, earlier this month, featuring four tracks of heavy, hypnotic rock that recall the post-punk of Joy Division and industrial grit of Nine Inch Nails.

A stark departure from the roots-rock and garage-band sound of previous projects, the Drought Cult reflects Echo’s personal philosophy about music. “I really feel like the only thing I want out of it is to feel like I’m progressing,” Echo says. “We all gauge our success; I try to gauge mine on small, achievable goals—being satisfied with the art we’re making, and doing what small working bands do.”

That attitude toward creative progress led to Echo leaving Sonoma County about three years ago to tour with Tucson’s Burning Palms, thinking it was a stepping stone to a larger career in music. After a summer in Arizona, Echo says he started having an existential crisis.

“I would take these walks out into the desert,” he says. “I realized that I still felt strong in the reasons why I left, but that the one thing that I could never rebuild was my . . . community” in Sonoma County.

“Whatever happens with music, what I need is a community. I need to feel immersed in love and familiarity and to contribute to that,” says Echo. “There’s no other place I can do that, despite my wanderlust. I had to go back to Santa Rosa.”

After his return, Echo ventured into creating art and sculpture, and recruited longtime Santa Rosa bassist Jef Overn (Litany for the Whale) and recently added drummer Dan Ford to make what he calls “spooky music” with the Drought Cult.

With two strong EPs to their name, the Drought Cult are focusing on multimedia projects like music videos and mesmerizing audiences with spellbinding live shows.

“I need to feel like I can get onstage and basically put myself into a trance with the music we’re creating,” Echo says. “If anything else, it’s to make myself feel good, and having my friends on board is the best part of that.”

Super People

The engaging, endearing Justice League, in its brisk two hours, is a big improvement on 2013’s Man of Steel and last year’s Batman v Superman—which could have been subtitled “The Dawn of Superman’s Funeral.”

Justice League commences with charm worthy of the Christopher Reeve Superman films. A couple of off-camera kids corner Superman (Henry Cavill) for an interview. The question that stops him speechless: “What’s the best thing about Earth?”
In BvS, the demise of the hero seemed like a sad gimmick. Here, the montage of street-corner monuments and rotting flowers on the street corner really stings: Leonard Cohen’s “Everybody Knows” on the soundtrack, Superman flanked with Bowie and Prince on a tabloid cover, Lois (Amy Adams) reaching for the empty side of the bed, and a beggar on a blanket next to a cardboard sign: “I TRIED.”

Smelling blood in the water, an alien god called Steppenwolf (voiced by Ciarán Hinds) arrives by wormhole. He’s essentially another Sauron, from Lord of the Rings, here to retrieve three strange pulsating cubes hidden by the ancients—three boxes to rule them all.

To save the world, Batman recruits a defense team of meta-humans, including the witty, self-doubting Flash (Ezra Miller), the fastest man alive and a self-described “attractive Jewish kid”; the insanely hearty barbarian of Atlantis, Aquaman (Jason Momoa); the somber half-machine Cyborg (Ray Fisher); and, in a welcome return, Wonder Woman (Gal Gadot).

This rapid yet smooth film has the time for breaks—the aging Bruce Wayne gets a sympathetic ear from Wonder Woman: “You can’t do this forever,” she warns. “I can barely do this now.”

The weariness and second thoughts are as much a surprise as the final battle where Steppenwolf is busy un-terraforming Terra. Gadot is glorious in slo-mo, and the sight of the Batmobile roaring away with a cloud of flying monsters behind it is thrilling to any former child who ever tied a towel around his neck, pretending it was a cape.

‘Justice League’ is playing in wide release in the North Bay.

Artifact Art

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Mosaic artist and longtime Napa resident Kristina Young was already three years into her massive art project memorializing items lost in Napa’s 2014 earthquake when disaster struck again in the form of the Atlas Peak and Tubbs wildfires.

The Napa Quake Mosaic began as a planned community art piece made up of objects damaged and destroyed in the Aug. 24, 2014, quake. “Each person had a story about the object they would bring in,” says Young. “They all had nostalgic, sentimental meanings to the people.”

Whether it was part of their mother’s wedding china or their child’s kindergarten macaroni jewelry, the objects and their stories painted a portrait of a community reeling, but also healing, from tragedy.

“The idea of the mosaic is that, after it’s completed, you can go and sit in reflection,” Young says. “You can find your object that you contributed and think about what home means, what the objects in our lives mean to us.”

Still in the planning stages, the mosaic found a site within the developing Rail Arts district in downtown Napa, and Young is coordinating with the Napa Valley Wine Train to donate a railcar upon which the mosaic will be assembled. Young also designed the piece, which uses the objects to represent layers of earthly sediment and an outward radiating seismic disruption. Currently fundraising for the project, Young has received grants from the Napa Valley Art Council, Mentis and other groups.

“I was literally about to go out in the community to do some kind of crowdfunding program when the fires hit,” she says. “At first, I thought, ‘I don’t even know if [the mosaic] is relevant anymore,’ because the fires impacted so many more people and were so much larger of a disaster than the earthquake.”

Young decided she would broaden the mosaic’s scope and add objects found in the wildfires’ aftermath.

“This is very in line with what the original concept of the project was,” says Young. “It’s documenting the process of healing after a trauma. Whether it’s an earthquake or fire or any other natural disaster, the healing process is an important one.”

Young is reaching out to those affected by the fires in Napa County and asking for any objects they may want to donate to the mosaic. She has already received objects from several artists who lost their studios in the fire, among them, Napa photographer Norma Quintana.

Calistoga-based landscape painter Karen Lynn Ingalls, who lost her barn studio in the Tubbs fire, will also be contributing some of her recovered items.

“These objects are important to people’s lives; they can’t keep them, but they can’t throw them away either,” Young says.

Family Jewel

The family-owned cannabis farm has taken a back seat in Northern California as corporations gobble up more resources. And yet parents and their children continue to plant, cultivate and harvest.

Probably no father-daughter team does more in the cannabis world, and does it with more panache, than Tim, 60, and Taylor Blake, 33.

This year the Emerald Cup that Tim (pictured) founded in 2003 takes place Dec. 9–10 in Santa Rosa. Bigger and perhaps better than ever before, the focus is on regenerative, ecologically minded farming.

At the first Cup, Taylor was 19, an observer rather than a participant. This year, as women have become more prominent in the industry, she has selected speakers, assembled panels and picked judges who will smoke and eat a wide variety of cannabis products and then rate them.

“It’s hard to select judges,” Taylor says. “We pick people who smoke regularly, know a lot about different strains and who can go though many rounds without dropping out.”

Once a family get-together, the Cup has turned into an extravaganza that’s part marijuana country fair, part industry confab and part live music festival. In 2013, Tim brought the Cup from Mendocino County to Santa Rosa, now a major center in the cannabis-manufacturing industry.

In 2003, there were 23 cannabis strain entries. Last year, there were 1,205. This year, the Cup has more entries and more sponsors than ever before, including AbsoluteXtracts and the International Cannabis Farmers Association.

Tim learned about marijuana in Santa Cruz County in the 1970s. “I was the Irish kid who worked for the older guys,” he says. “Tons of Thai weed arrived by boat. One guy told me that the day of the smuggler was ending. ‘We’ll all be growing indoors under lights,’ he said. I told him, ‘You’re crazy.'”

Taylor learned about cannabis in Mendocino County and studied psychology at UC Santa Cruz.

“For years, I ping-ponged from pot fields to college classrooms,” she says. “There are marijuana people in both places, but in Mendo it’s harder to find someone who’s not involved in the industry.

“Growing up,” she adds, “I helped my father with his outdoor projects. He taught me that cultivation is a labor of love.”

Cultivating marijuana hasn’t always been fun and games for the Blakes.

“I watched friends go to jail,” Tim says. “I also saw growers trash the environment.”

To those who are eager to join the “green rush,” Taylor suggests: “Join a growers’ group, find a mentor, go to a job fair—and come to the Emerald Cup.”

Jonah Raskin is the author of ‘Marijuanaland: Dispatches from
an American War.’

Alley-Oop

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When I drop by impromptu at Alley 6 Craft Distillery one weekday afternoon, it looks likely they aren’t open—or that I might disturb someone who’s hard at work—so I’m about to turn away after a minute or so when a sleepy-eyed Jason Jorgensen peeks out the door. Actually, he’d been having a nap.

If it sounds like he’s asking for trouble, à la moonshiner’s folly, it’s all part of the distiller’s long shift at work, Jorgensen explains in the tasting room, an unexpected little hideaway furnished like a cozy pub within this light industrial district northwest of downtown Healdsburg. Having already started a distillation of Viognier wine, which he and his wife, Krystle, use as a base for their bay laurel and wild-harvested fennel-infused Harvest gin ($40), he’s got a few hours to wait it out (while the spirit drips tediously into a collecting vat) in what he describes as a man-cave-style room upstairs until having to decide when he will cut the “tails” of the distillation.

If you’ve heard that a narrow cut in between “heads” and “tails” yields the purest product, the spirit in question may have been vodka. Where it concerns whiskey, says Jorgensen, he prefers to leave the tails rather long, as this more oily portion contributes mouthfeel and flavor.

So is that the secret to the Jorgensen’s Alley 6 rye whiskey ($50), which Bohemian staffers picked as their overall favorite in a tasting earlier this year? Or is it the 22 percent aromatic malted barley from Heidelberg, Germany, that also makes up 100 percent of their Alley 6 single malt whiskey ($60)? Could be those antiquey copper stills over there, manufactured in Portugal for the brandy trade—although other local craft distilleries use the very same design, with very different results.

The distiller’s hard-earned art is paramount, of course. And for the Jorgensens, there was that one dream trip to Scotland . . . and that two-day course in Colorado . . . “I like to say I went to the university of YouTube,” jokes the often-chuckling Jorgensen.

Surely the barrel regimen plays a role. Although the whiskey is aged in the same charred, new American oak barrels that’s required of all American whiskey bearing the name, some of the barrels in the Alley 6 cellar, a mere pantry compared to the most boutiquey of winery cellars, are as small as five gallons. Some say that’s a whiskey aging “trick.” I say it’s a delicious whiskey. Who wants to wait for whiskey this good?

1401-D Grove St., Healdsburg. Daily, 11am–5pm. Tasting fee, $10. 707.484.3593.

Top (Secret) Chef

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You wouldn’t know it from the outside, but the tidy house on Brown Street in Healdsburg is a secret food and drink R&D laboratory.

The kitchen is loaded with high-tech devices like colorimeters and incubators. One wall is given over to an apothecary of spices, herbs, extracts, roots and functional ingredients used in recipe formulation. And there’s a custom-built beer cooler that comes out of a big log. For research, I’m guessing.

The team behind the company—Pilot R&D—is impressive. The four partners (Kyle Connaughton, Ali Bouzari, Dana Peck and Dan Felder) have résumés from some of the most acclaimed and innovative restaurants in the world: Momofuku, the French Laundry, Noma, Saison, Benu, Eleven Madison Park and WD-50. Connaugthon is the executive chef at Healdsburg’s Single Thread, which earned two Michelin stars last month.

Pilot R&D develops menus and proprietary food and beverage products for companies like Sprig, Exo, Avenir, Primal Kitchen and Barnana. While those projects are hush-hush, Pilot launched its own brand, Render, and just introduced its first product called State Bird Seed, a partnership with San Francisco’s State Bird Provisions restaurant.

The idea behind Render is to collaborate with great chefs to create great food and drink products—chef-to-shelf they call it. State Bird Seed grew out of State Bird Provision’s transformation of leftover quinoa and seeds into a salty, crunchy snack that’s also used as an ingredient on other dishes. The Pilot team refined the process and created three flavors (sea salt, almond and rosemary, and furikake) and put it all an attractive, co-branded resealable bag. The snack is good right out of the bag, but last week the Pilot team opened their doors for a private lunch to show how the crunchy bits work with other food.

The verdict? Very well. State Bird Seed is great as a crusty layer on cider-braised ribs and excellent sprinkled on bitter greens or on pear-apple crumble.

A bag goes for $4.99 at Mollie Stone’s, Healdsburg Shed and Good Eggs.

The next product launch will be his-and-her beverages from former Bar Tartine chefs Nick Balla and Courtney Burns that are due out in the spring.

Part of the idea behind Render is that many chefs have great ideas but developing them into a packaged product is beyond their skill set or resources.

“That’s not what any of these chefs set out to do,” says Peck, “but Render allows for that collaboration.”

Ali Bouzari, who has a PhD in food chemistry from UC Davis and worked on cooking vegetables sous vide with the French Laundry for his dissertation, says a lot of the firm’s work involves getting everyone in the kitchen a table and playing with ingredients, adding this and trying that, iterating—rendering—as they go. At the end of lunch, Bouzari grated bits of this and that—pecan, allspice—over a plate of just-made marshmallow in effort to achieve autumnal flavors.

“In improv,” Bouzari says, “they would say, ‘yes, and . . .'”

It will be delicious to taste
what that means in the months
to come.

For more information, visit pilotrd.com.

Renters Rights

The fires that ravaged Sonoma County created havoc in a community already stressed by too little and too expensive housing. People were already leaving—I know quite a few—but now we are faced with a mass exodus of the very people who make this county work: its labor force, its young families and those who should feel secure at the...

Letters to the Editor: November 22, 2017

Hats Off Thank you for your reliable coverage throughout the terrible crisis of the firestorm, as well as your consistently fine writing on the disaster. Like other issues such as homelessness and mental illness, this will prove to be one of the central ongoing issues of this region. I applaud your commitment to keeping a tight focus on reporting on...

Weighing Options

It's a busy Thursday morning in Coffey Park as the debris cleanup is in full effect. Workers in white protective suits are clearing out home sites throughout the wasteland where some 1,300 homes were destroyed in the October Tubbs fire. The sound of beeping trucks backing up fills the air, as heavy front-loaders are making piles of trashed cars and...

Two Squared

Two-hander. It's a funny term, meaning a play with two actors. Currently, two different two-handers are running in Sonoma County, proving exactly how much range and variation these plays can have. At Left Edge Theatre, Stephen Sachs' Bakersfield Mist is a witty, coarse and brutal dark comedy set in a Bakersfield mobile home. It clocks in at a super-brisk 79...

Finding Truth

Dark and drenched in reverb, the experimental psychedelic rock of Sonoma County trio the Drought Cult mixes dreamy hooks and fuzzed-out guitars for a lush gothic sound. Formed and fronted by Santa Rosa native Francesco Echo, whose musical career began with high school band Girls in Suede and flourished recently with the John Courage Trio, the Drought Cult unleashed its...

Super People

The engaging, endearing Justice League, in its brisk two hours, is a big improvement on 2013's Man of Steel and last year's Batman v Superman—which could have been subtitled "The Dawn of Superman's Funeral." Justice League commences with charm worthy of the Christopher Reeve Superman films. A couple of off-camera kids corner Superman (Henry Cavill) for an interview. The question...

Artifact Art

Mosaic artist and longtime Napa resident Kristina Young was already three years into her massive art project memorializing items lost in Napa's 2014 earthquake when disaster struck again in the form of the Atlas Peak and Tubbs wildfires. The Napa Quake Mosaic began as a planned community art piece made up of objects damaged and destroyed in the Aug. 24,...

Family Jewel

The family-owned cannabis farm has taken a back seat in Northern California as corporations gobble up more resources. And yet parents and their children continue to plant, cultivate and harvest. Probably no father-daughter team does more in the cannabis world, and does it with more panache, than Tim, 60, and Taylor Blake, 33. This year the Emerald Cup that Tim (pictured)...

Alley-Oop

When I drop by impromptu at Alley 6 Craft Distillery one weekday afternoon, it looks likely they aren't open—or that I might disturb someone who's hard at work—so I'm about to turn away after a minute or so when a sleepy-eyed Jason Jorgensen peeks out the door. Actually, he'd been having a nap. If it sounds like he's asking for...

Top (Secret) Chef

You wouldn't know it from the outside, but the tidy house on Brown Street in Healdsburg is a secret food and drink R&D laboratory. The kitchen is loaded with high-tech devices like colorimeters and incubators. One wall is given over to an apothecary of spices, herbs, extracts, roots and functional ingredients used in recipe formulation. And there's a custom-built beer...
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