French Toast

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Americans just don’t celebrate Bastille Day like they do the public holidays (or national heritage-themed festivities, anyway) of a handful of other nations: with a bout of drinking any alcoholic beverage associated with said nation.

Maybe July 14 follows too close on the heels of a beer-soaked Fourth, but it’s a missed opportunity for North Coast wineries. As Irish stout is to St. Patrick’s Day, surely such a French-themed holiday would be soused in what most folks think of as numéro un of French wines: Cabernet Sauvignon.

The funny thing about that is, while Cab is king in California, it’s merely in the top five in France, ranking below workaday Carignan and humbled by the reign of Merlot. And while native to Bordeaux, Cab gained its favored status in close concert with the wine-drinking habits of aristocratic Englishmen who were in need of something weedy and tannic with which to continue staining their teeth after taking black tea at four.

There’s a line of wine criticism which insists that, since Americans prefer coffee, often with cream and sugar, they fancy their Cabernet with roasted oak, vanillin and sweet fruit flavor. The Educated Guess 2016 North Coast Cabernet Sauvignon ($19.99) offers no contradiction—only roasty, toasty French roast aroma, inky purple marker notes and convincing tannic grip, for a democratic price. The producer, an outfit called Roots Run Deep Winery, also makes a Napa Valley-designated wine; this even more economical North Coast version includes a Lake County portion that comes to the blend with the good rep of Beckstoffer Vineyards. The wine’s black plum and black-cherry fruit flavors sweeten in the glass, balancing the charred character. If this doesn’t do it for your backyard barbecue guests, then let them drink . . . $400 Napa Cab?

Another funny thing about Cabernet in Napa Valley is that it’s most often seen in the company of that trophy blonde, Chardonnay, when its real mate, or rather, maman, back in Bordeaux, is Sauvignon Blanc—a mix-up that probably stems from the lineup at the 1976 Judgment of Paris tasting.

Speaking of stems, the Ehlers Estate 2017 St. Helena Sauvignon Blanc ($32) fumes with those pyrazine notes shared by both varietals. Here, it’s evocative less of green pepper than dusty shale, or to some, flint or smoke, like some Loire Sauvignon Blancs. Grapefruit pith and hardly ripe yellow plum flavors might be a bit tart for some tastes, yet if the long finish is bracing, it isn’t bitter. Anyway, this organically farmed, varietal exemplar is best suited for quiet summer evening sipping, not a bout of drinking.

This story was updated to correct information about Roots Run Deep Winery.

Finalmente!

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When I was a senior editor for Make magazine a few years back, the two biggest events of the year were the Maker Faires in New York and San Mateo.

If you’ve never been, Maker Faire is part science fair and part Burning Man festival that attracts legions of DIY tech enthusiasts, hackers and geeks. There’s nothing like it.

My favorite part of the event was the day before it opened, when all the makers were busy setting up their booths and readying various contraptions, experiments and whirligigs. It’s a tradition that the long day of preparation ends with a party featuring cold beer, music and a long line of hungry makers waiting for a plate of Gerard Nebesky’s paella.

The Occidental resident, whose white goatee matches his curly head of hair, has long been a fixture at the two big Maker Faires, where he cooks vast quantities of paella with wooden spoons as big canoe paddles in mammoth pans as big as satellite dishes. I miss those paella parties.

Nebesky and his brigade of risotto pans are regulars at various Bay Area festivals and farmers markets, but now the patron of paella has a fixed location in downtown Santa Rosa. After what seemed like an eternity (I was hungry), he finally opened on Fourth Street last month, where Persona Pizza had its short run. I predict Gerard’s Paella will be there for quite a while.

The remodeled space has an understated, modern feel. I love the low orange stools and beautiful wooden tables. There’s a bar with a great lineup of local and Spanish wine and beer, and a separate patio that I’m eyeing for our holiday party.

Nebesky inherited the former occupant’s wood burning oven. I’m glad he kept it. The paella dishes are assembled in front of customers as they line up to order, and are finished in the oven to delicious effect.

If anything, the paella is even better than I remember it. The rice has a wonderful, toothsome quality. I could taste each grain. I tried the El Pescador ($14), mussels, clams, shrimp and squid made with peas, sweet peppers and inky black arroz negro. The three dollops of aioli were about two too many, but otherwise it’s fantastic and big enough to share. There are also vegetarian and meatier versions.

The bocadillos (baguette sandwiches, $8) may be my new go-to lunch. They’re served on soft, freshly baked baguette rolls. I tried the Choripan—thinly sliced chorizo sarta, tetilla cheese and charred kale. Tetilla is a semi-soft cow’s milk cheese from Galicia that’s wonderfully creamy and sweet. It’s great layered with hearty chorizo. The jumble of fat olives on the side is a nice bonus.

I was pleased to see a number of classic Spanish tapas. The kitchen serves a respectable patatas bravas (spicy potatoes, $8) that’s just begging for a glass of Estrella Damm lager to go with it. The fried calamari is another beer- or Albariño-friendly snack. Instead of bread flour, they’re battered in chickpea flour and served with smoked paprika-spiked aioli. The gambas al ajillo ($10), five plump prawns sizzled in spicy garlic butter, are worth the ensuing garlic breath—use it to tell your friends about Gerard’s new home.

Gerard’s Paella, 701 Fourth St.,
Santa Rosa. 707.708.8686.

Creature Crafter

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It could be said that
Lex Rudd makes dreams come true—
or, more precisely, she makes visions a reality. That’s because the longtime Sonoma County resident is a special effects master who specializes in designing and building puppets and props for film, television, theater productions and toy makers.

This summer, Rudd steps out of the shop and into her new Dreams and Visions Puppet & Craft Studio in downtown Forestville, where she’ll display her work and offer a series of crafting and sewing classes starting in August.

Born in England, Rudd was a young artist enamored with creatures like those created by Jim Henson in the films Labyrinth and The Dark Crystal.

“When I was 16, for Halloween, my friend and I wanted to make some masks,” remembers Rudd. “Instead of doing papier-mâché or whatever, we thought we’d do it properly, so we bought some clay and some plaster and some latex, and we made these werewolf masks. Ever since then, I’ve loved sculpting and I’ve loved creatures.”

In college, Rudd earned a degree in special effects and began working for a U.K. company where she sculpted dragons for the 2002 film Reign of Fire and created puppets for the 2005 film The Brothers Grimm.

Rudd moved to Los Angeles to work on a children’s TV show in 2004, and eventually relocated to the East Bay and then Sonoma County in 2008. In 2014, she appeared on Syfy’s reality competition show Jim Henson’s Creature Shop Challenge, where she made monsters on camera along with nine other contestants. Though she was eliminated on the show, Rudd was one of two contestants picked up by the Henson Creature Shop to work as a contractor.

“As far as puppets go, they’re the pinnacle, really,” Rudd says. “I just worked on the new Dark Crystal [Netflix series], and I can’t say what, but I got to work on one of the major puppet characters.”

While Rudd travels for work, she now wants to establish a presence in the artistic hub of the North Bay. “I absolutely love it here in Sonoma County. I want to get more involved in the community, and am hoping that people start to notice me.”

At the Forestville studio, currently open by appointment only, Rudd has assembled a working space, complete with industrial machines and a wall of fabrics, that will also serve as a classroom. The upcoming adult-oriented classes will let prospective crafters make their own Billy Goat Gruff puppets, tote bags and more.

“If there’s interest, I want to open it up to making professional puppets and get more in-depth,” Rudd says. “I’d also love to get into bigger local projects and cool, weird community art stuff.”

Days of Malaise

We’re halfway into the first year of recreational cannabis sales and taxation under Proposition 64. So how goes it for the rank-and-file growers and manufacturers who were coaxed into support for Proposition 64? Not so good.

That’s the assessment of the California Growers Association’s “Mid-Year Outlook, 2018,” a report on the state of the industry thus far.

“From disappointing [first quarter] tax revenue, to disappointing license numbers, the market is inundated with a general sense of malaise,” writes CGA executive director Hezekiah Allen. “What was once a dynamic and diverse marketplace is now stagnant, with significant barriers disrupting commerce and communities.”

Most discouraging, Allen says that legalization has not happened yet for most of the state because city and county governments are still working to implement permitting ordinances. Many have no plans for cannabis sales.

“The general outlook for the California market is likely to be depressed until things change at the local level,” he says.

The new report warns that the costly transition from temporary to annual licenses “may change the landscape” as businesses without sufficient means fade away. License fees range from $1,200 for small growers to $77,000 for the largest cultivation license, and $4,000 to $120,000 for retail operations.

The new report also points to an oversupply “ticking time bomb” created by large-scale growers who have ramped up production ahead of retail outlets.

“There are a handful of businesses, some rookie and some veteran, seeking to bring some of the state’s largest harvests ever to market,” says the report. “Fortunes may be earned and most certainly will be lost.”

On the plus side, the report is bullish on the first legal light-deprivation crops about to hit
the market later this month, followed by sun-grown cannabis by year’s end.

“These harvests are marked by some of the richest and most delicate entourages of flavors, aromas and cannabinoids.”

Meanwhile, in what may be a case of the cart before the horse, Sen. Mike McGuire and Assemblyman Jim Wood announced last week that the North Coast Regional Office of the Bureau of Cannabis Control is open in Eureka.

The office will save North Coast growers and retailers a trip to Sacramento to pay their taxes—cold comfort for the many growers struggling to pay their taxes and stay afloat.

Prairie Sun Recordings Releases “Out Of The Fire” Compilation Album

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albumart_0ialb01368426_200x200On Sunday, July 8, Prairie Sun Studios in Cotati is hosting a benefit party celebrating the release of a new compilation album, “Out Of The Fire,” featuring 11 songs performed by local musicians that aims to raise money for people who lost their instruments or audio gear in the devastating October 2017 Sonoma County wildfires.
The new CD features mostly original songs, with a few carefully selected covers, by artists like Sarah Baker, Volker Strifler, Levi Lloyd, Danny Sorentino, Johnny Campbell, Doug Jayne, Willy Jordan, Eki Shola and Steve Kimock.
Produced by Baker, Mark “Mooka” Rennick and Allan Sudduth, and recorded and mixed at the renowned Prairie Sun Recording Studios, the richly compelling collection will be available at the release party, with many of the participating musicians on hand. The show is free, but an RSVP is required. For more info on the album and the concert, click here.

Local Knowledge: Bodega Bay

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Describe your perfect day in Bodega Bay.

Any kind of outdoor exploration, any kind of learning that expands my appreciation and understanding of place. Anything that connects me to where we live and work.

Where is your favorite place to eat in Bodega Bay and why?

Well, I love spending time outside, and after a walk or outdoor activity, I’m usually interested in a snack. I’m happy with a granola bar and a piece of fresh fruit from a local farmers market. There’s nothing like eating a ripe peach next to the ocean, but I’m not opposed to a treat from the Tomales Bakery or a scone from Wild Flour Bread in Freestone either!

Where would you take first-time visitors in Bodega Bay?

I’d take them for a walk, probably on Bodega Head. The trail that follows the southern end of Bodega Head provides a chance to see whales. There are amazing views of Point Reyes and Tomales Bay. Looking across the harbor to town, you can watch the fishing boats and think about Bodega Bay’s history and how lucky we are that people have cared about this part of the coast for so long.

What do you know about Bodega Bay that others don’t?

There are so many different habitats in Bodega Bay that I think you could go out every day—on foot or on the water—and see something new. Take your pick: a sandy beach, sand dunes, a coastal bluff, coastal prairie, the tidal flats, a salt marsh, an eelgrass meadow, rocky tide pools, the open ocean. We’re very fortunate to live in a part of the world where there’s such incredibly high species diversity.

If you could change one thing about Bodega Bay what would it be?

There’s no doubt that it would be easier to live here if everything was cheaper. But money aside, if I had a magic wand, I’d create a “town square” where community members and visitors could gather, a space that would encourage people to spend some time outside and to check in with each other.

Jackie Sones is a marine biologist at the Bodega Bay Marine Reserve and writes the excellent ‘Natural History of Bodega Bay’ blog at bodegahead.blogspot.com.

Birds and Blobs

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Alfred Hitchcock made dozens of films over a half-century-plus movie career, but the one everyone talks about in Bodega Bay is, of course, The Birds, his 1963 spine-tingler about murderous birds which was filmed in town and provides a cultural signpost to visitors here.

The freaking crows are everywhere you look in Bodega Bay, and the Hitchcock-honoring Birds Café is where you go for chowder and fish tacos and to soak up the foggy scene in a properly Hitchcockian manner. Put on the voyeur lens and pan out: the restaurant was once a garage featured in the movie.

The Birds arrived on American screens at the end of what, viewed in retrospect, is an especially incredible period in Hitchcock’s career—just a few years removed from Rear Window, Vertigo, North by Northwest and Psycho.

For my money, The Birds stands up to those classics, as I still can remember watching the movie on the old black-and-white TV at grandma’s in the early 1970s and getting totally freaked out when the murderous black birds arrive on the scene, silently awaiting a victim to emerge from her home. Don’t do it, Tipi!

It’s bone-chilling stuff which makes me wonder: How might one experience other Hitchcockian vibes in Bodega Bay? And, what were those darn birds in The Birds so ticked off about, anyway? The short story from which the movie is drawn does not provide answers—but the answer to this cliffhanger question appears at the end of this essay.

To that first question, if you’re looking for some Vertigo vibes to your visit, that’s easy: trek up to Bodega Head and look down, down to the rocks and the crashing surf below. Inhale the salty air and belt out the theme from High Anxiety. Now take 39 careful steps away from the cliff, and grab some lunch at Fishetarian (p12).

If Psycho is your Hitchcock referent du jour, I suggest you settle in at a choice local hotel and check out the punk rock band from New York Norman Bates and the Showerheads on YouTube—since the wi-fi is free at the Bodega Inn. And if there’s a bargain hotel in town, the Bodega Inn is it, with rooms going for about a buck-fifty a night.

True, there are a couple of other hotels in Bodega Bay where guests who are not Rich and Strange are occasionally heard to scream their heads off when confronted with steep nightly rates that cut a vacation budget like a knife through a shower curtain. The good news is there’s lots of cheap camping options up here, or perhaps a priced-out visitor to Bodega Bay will be spotted in the Rear Window making tracks south for the affordable camp spots at Doran Park.

Well, hey then, are you a visitor to Bodega Bay planning on a North by Northwest adventure? You could do worse than get on one of the several open fishing boats that run out of Bodega Bay and, generally speaking, head in that direction to the fishing grounds, from whence salmon the size of a Lifeboat are occasionally landed. If it’s fire season, who knows, maybe you’ll get chased by a DC-10 spewing red algae (hint hint: the reference to red algae is not a red herring).

Which brings us to the funny thing about The Birds. The funny thing about The Birds isn’t actually funny, but pretty ironic, given recent events in local waters that have dramatically and negatively impacted fishermen here.

According to numerous Hitchcock scholars and scientists, the murderous crows in the film were inspired by actual events that took place in Monterey Bay in 1961, when dying, sooty shearwaters started to fly headlong into people’s houses. Totally freaked people out.

Scientists eventually determined that the birds were disoriented and distressed because they’d been poisoned by domoic acid—yes, the selfsame shellfish poison that has conspired to end or otherwise limit several recent Dungeness crab seasons—and cripple the Bodega crabbing fleet in the process.

So there’s The Birds, and then there’s The Blob. Hitchcock
didn’t direct the American classic The Blob, but there was an interesting piece in the Boston Globe a few years ago where the author argued that the two movies compare favorably insofar as they render the seemingly innocuous into something horrific—sort of like if a reality show star became president or something. And, yes, indeed: there’s a big and scary blob of warm water lurking off the California coast that has fisheries experts worried that next year’s crab season could be canceled again.

Oh, it’s lurking all right. Watch those birds.

The Fifth of July

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This week our country celebrates the Fourth of July. We should take note of our history at this moment. Older nations have commented on our country’s short existence, that we are in an adolescent stage, both socially and politically. And so it is true, looking back on our historical narrative, even up to the present: abuse, removal, enslavement, exploitation and imprisonment of indigenous populations and peoples of color and ethnicity and destruction of the land itself—we have displayed arrogance and callous disregard for humanity and sacred space.

Perhaps our founding fathers would have been proud of our many accomplishments. We have come very far, very fast, but they would have scratched their powdered wigs, perplexed by the multitude of social and economic problems we have brought upon ourselves and continue to grapple with ineffectively at best.

One would think the Declaration of Independence’s endowment for “life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness” would be a reasonable template for an honest government and a framework for the populace to put their trust in.

Reflecting back over 150 years, our country survived a civil war, two world wars, the Korean and Vietnam wars, the Afghanistan and Iraq conflicts, a major depression and a major recession, but our country somehow found the angels of our better nature in service to its citizenry—not perfectly, and most assuredly with much need for improvement.

Incumbent upon all of us in these times is to be more vigilant than ever regarding the guiding principles of that declarative document and that they be held high as a remembrance to ideals embraced then and in sore need now.

When we return to our lives after the holiday and fireworks are over, let us look into the eyes of family members, friends, co-workers and even strangers among us and know that their personal ideals are no different from our founding father’s values and our own.

E. G. Singer lives in Santa Rosa.

Open Mic is a weekly feature in the ‘Bohemian.’ We welcome your contribution. To have your topical essay of 350 words considered for publication, write op*****@******an.com.

Letters to the Editor: July 4, 2018

Five Seconds

Now that the U.S. Supreme Court has allowed the civil lawsuit to go ahead against Eric Gelhaus (“Denied,” June 27), we can take another look at the bad judgment exhibited by Sonoma County District Attorney Jill Ravitch and the “multiple law enforcement groups”
that lobbied to shield Gelhaus from responsibility. These groups skewered their own argument by claiming that the decision will “require officers in the field to second-guess themselves.” Exactly. Maybe if Gelhaus had taken five seconds instead of three to size up the situation, Andy would be alive today.

Occidental

Bygone Burger

Kudos to John Omaha for his Open Mic (“There Goes the Neighborhood,” June 20) on the imminent ousting of Carmen’s Burger Bar by the “Stark juggernaut.” As Omaha noted, Carmen’s offered plenty of options besides beef, reasonable prices and a family-friendly atmosphere. What he was gracious enough not to mention is that Carmen’s was forced out after 13 years by a landlord who gave away the lease.

The fact that Willi’s burned in the October fires was a tragedy. The fact that, by all appearances, its insurance settlement was used as lucrative bait to poach a lease is sadder yet. Shame on both sides for this stinker of a deal.

Santa Rosa

Bridges
Not Walls

I find that nationalism is an impediment to human dignity. This is evident in many ways. Debate rages as the United States restricts movement of people through or across its borders. There are as many 70 border walls made by countries to restrict movement of people. My dream is that the movement of people across national borders over all the earth would be the same as human movement over the border between Massachusetts and Connecticut. I believe pride, devotion and love for one’s country is OK. However, our immigration system is broken and needs to be fixed.

Sebastopol

Beaver Relievers

James Knight’s article (“Leave It to . . . Beavers,” June 27) leaves out one crucial caveat to beaver overpopulation. Much of the water in places you would think would be cleaner, such as Alaska and Canada, has been contaminated because of their droppings. We don’t need too many, since nothing good comes out of beaver droppings, I’m afraid.

Via Bohemian.com

Write to us at le*****@******an.com.

Flag Wave

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The gay flag-swipe caper that has roiled Guerneville for months has been solved—and justice is at hand.

On June 29, Sonoma County District Attorney Jill Ravitch announced that 55-year-old Vincent Joseph O’Sullivan was found guilty by a jury of filching the rainbow flag that hangs from the pole in Guerneville Plaza on May 9. According to a release, O’Sullivan was to be sentenced for the crime on July 2—but his sentencing was postponed to July 13, says media coordinator Joseph Langenbahn at the district attorney’s office. O’Sullivan remains free on bond in the meantime.

The rainbow flag has been stolen several times this year, says Ravitch. O’Sullivan was charged with one of the thefts. The rainbow flag flies underneath the United States flag and the state flag of California.

O’Sullivan confessed to the crime to an arresting officer, a Sonoma County Deputy Sheriff, and said the flag’s presence on the pole offended him, and others, according to a statement from Ravitch’s office.

The rainbow flag is an iconic pennant created by gay San Francisco artist Gilbert Baker in the late 1970s.

The district attorney, who is one of the highest-placed openly gay elected officials in the joyfully Sapphic state of California, says that “there were many who were very upset by this conduct. The jury’s verdict reflects the support this community has for the rule of law and the right of all of us to enjoy this county.”
—Tom Gogola

French Toast

Americans just don't celebrate Bastille Day like they do the public holidays (or national heritage-themed festivities, anyway) of a handful of other nations: with a bout of drinking any alcoholic beverage associated with said nation. Maybe July 14 follows too close on the heels of a beer-soaked Fourth, but it's a missed opportunity for North Coast wineries. As Irish stout...

Finalmente!

When I was a senior editor for Make magazine a few years back, the two biggest events of the year were the Maker Faires in New York and San Mateo. If you've never been, Maker Faire is part science fair and part Burning Man festival that attracts legions of DIY tech enthusiasts, hackers and geeks. There's nothing like it. My favorite...

Creature Crafter

It could be said that Lex Rudd makes dreams come true— or, more precisely, she makes visions a reality. That's because the longtime Sonoma County resident is a special effects master who specializes in designing and building puppets and props for film, television, theater productions and toy makers. This summer, Rudd steps out of the shop and into her new Dreams...

Days of Malaise

We're halfway into the first year of recreational cannabis sales and taxation under Proposition 64. So how goes it for the rank-and-file growers and manufacturers who were coaxed into support for Proposition 64? Not so good. That's the assessment of the California Growers Association's "Mid-Year Outlook, 2018," a report on the state of the industry thus far. "From disappointing tax...

Prairie Sun Recordings Releases “Out Of The Fire” Compilation Album

On Sunday, July 8, Prairie Sun Studios in Cotati is hosting a benefit party celebrating the release of a new compilation album, "Out Of The Fire," featuring 11 songs performed by local musicians that aims to raise money for people who lost their instruments or audio gear in the devastating October 2017 Sonoma County wildfires. The new CD features mostly original songs, with...

Local Knowledge: Bodega Bay

Describe your perfect day in Bodega Bay. Any kind of outdoor exploration, any kind of learning that expands my appreciation and understanding of place. Anything that connects me to where we live and work. Where is your favorite place to eat in Bodega Bay and why? Well, I love spending time outside, and after a walk or outdoor activity, I'm usually interested...

Birds and Blobs

Alfred Hitchcock made dozens of films over a half-century-plus movie career, but the one everyone talks about in Bodega Bay is, of course, The Birds, his 1963 spine-tingler about murderous birds which was filmed in town and provides a cultural signpost to visitors here. The freaking crows are everywhere you look in Bodega Bay, and the Hitchcock-honoring Birds Café is...

The Fifth of July

This week our country celebrates the Fourth of July. We should take note of our history at this moment. Older nations have commented on our country's short existence, that we are in an adolescent stage, both socially and politically. And so it is true, looking back on our historical narrative, even up to the present: abuse, removal, enslavement, exploitation...

Letters to the Editor: July 4, 2018

Five Seconds Now that the U.S. Supreme Court has allowed the civil lawsuit to go ahead against Eric Gelhaus ("Denied," June 27), we can take another look at the bad judgment exhibited by Sonoma County District Attorney Jill Ravitch and the "multiple law enforcement groups" that lobbied to shield Gelhaus from responsibility. These groups skewered their own argument by claiming...

Flag Wave

The gay flag-swipe caper that has roiled Guerneville for months has been solved—and justice is at hand. On June 29, Sonoma County District Attorney Jill Ravitch announced that 55-year-old Vincent Joseph O'Sullivan was found guilty by a jury of filching the rainbow flag that hangs from the pole in Guerneville Plaza on May 9. According to a release, O'Sullivan was...
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