Letters to the Editor

03.05.08

Against the Grain

I had a good laugh reading your article “The Meat of the Matter” (Feb. 20). I am a supporter of humane farm practices, and am pleased to see the growing concern over consumer safety. But the author may want to spend a little time “out on the ranch” to observe first-hand how “natural beef” is raised.

I spent several months working alongside an employee at a “natural beef” feed lot some years ago. I will not mention the name of the producer, but it is an industry leader. We spent time moving cows and calves on horseback in west Sonoma County, and while I don’t call this “pampered” (grazing in open land is the natural state for cattle), this stage of the process sounds pretty good. But then calves are crammed into trucks (do cattle trucks look comfy to you?) and shipped to other destinations to graze for a season, and then shipped back to feedlots here to fatten for slaughter.

The feed lot is what [author Christina] Waters might want to visit. Confined in large concrete floored pens, steers gorge themselves day and night on hay and grain. So much sloppy manure is produced (grain is a “hot” food and gives cattle diarrhea) that cattle sometimes stand in ankle deep slop. We waded through the slop in tall boots to check for sick animals. We used tractors to periodically scrape the slop into dump trucks, which were dumped out in pasture. Some steers get pulled out; their feet rot. Some steers die in the feedlot, too obese to rise after reclining.

The fact that they are not fed growth hormones and are fed natural feed is admirable (if farmers can trust the grain producers), but I would not go so far as to call their existence “pampered” or their production “sustainable.” Take a good look at West County grazing lands, devoid of all natural grasses, in varying states of erosion, to get an idea of what I mean.

Don’t get me wrong, I still eat red meat (although we raise our own, and they have a much, much better life) with a good glass of local red wine at least once a week, and I support local agriculture and ranching. I’m sure some operations are an improvement over what I experienced. But people shouldn’t fool themselves into thinking a livestock animal’s life is grand or that the process is humane and sustainable just because the sellers of the product market it as such.

The high price of your “natural beef” isn’t going into the pockets of the employees (very low wages, no health insurance, no vacation, no overtime, exhausting hours, illegal workers) or into the improvement of the land (often state land leased at very cheap prices). These producers are selling “natural beef” to make money.

I would encourage everyone to be more aware of how all our food is produced, first-hand. Don’t believe everything they tell you.

jan G.

Santa rosa

To-go, Begone!

Yesterday I came to a stark realization as I walked back to campus after grabbing a smoothie from the local juice shack. Everyone around me had at least one “to-go” package, if not more. As I looked around, I imagined trash just piling up and covering the earth. There must be a special place in Dante’s Inferno for people to be buried in their own trash. Today, I’m at school armed with my commuter mug and a bowl from home. However, it was despairing that the girl at the kiosk on campus used a to-go bowl to measure soup into my bowl. (That’s for another letter entirely.)

My message for everyone is: Now is the time!

Get involved and take action! There really is so much for us to lose as a planet and as a species. Pick something that you are passionate about and get involved, because every little bit helps and there’s so much healing that needs to done. As for me, my next step is to figure out how to get the soup into my bowl without the styrofoam cup being involved.

rhianna frank

cotati

Jah May Sing!

Listen, a real change in the spirit of the students is happening at the Santa Rosa Junior College. People are talking to each other more. The green lights are flashing in the eyes of students, and it’s exciting. Pay attention to our campus; we are on the verge of something fantastic and mystical. Walk through campus one day and feel the energy. I hear the drums of change in the movement of the students journeying the paths of enlightenment. Jah-may-sing!

jerome beck

Santa rosa


True Cost

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03.05.08

E veryone wants to make prudent financial decisions, both individually and on a community-wide level. But what’s the best way to go about it? How much do officials need to know to make a decision?

Nowadays developers expect to do an environmental impact report (EIR) for any large-scale construction project. But are physical results like noise or traffic and the ecological balance the only things decision-makers should evaluate to determine if a proposal will help or harm the local community? In Petaluma, activists are proposing requiring a community impact report (CIR) to assess the true fiscal costs and benefits of potential projects.

Environmental impact reports have entered the standard public lexicon. Are CIRs the next step? “Twenty-five or 30 years ago, the environmental impact report was also a new tool, and now it’s standard,” asserts Marty Bennett, a Santa Rosa Junior College instructor and co-chairman of the Sonoma County Living Wage Coalition, part of the group that’s urging Petaluma to adopt the CIR requirement. “From my point of view, 25 years down the road, we will say that a CIR has become standard in the approval process for new developments. That will be a huge step forward.”

But Petaluma resident and Sonoma County Planning Commission member Don Bennett (no relation) thinks that’s a bad idea. Community impact reports, he says, would be used as “a tool to keep things from happening within the community.” He argues that the proposal is anti&–chain stores and anti-big-box retailers.

“It comes down to a philosophical thing, whether you think the role of government is to control business and management, and who you’re managing it for,” he says. “Who’s going to decide who you want in? That’s the problem. Whose will do you impose?”

Cities such as Los Angeles and San Jose already require CIRs as part of the approval process for major projects. Usually less than 50 pages, a CIR looks at five main impacts: fiscal, employment, affordable housing, neighborhood needs and smart growth. Unlike an EIR, a CIR isn’t binding and doesn’t require mitigation of any impacts.

“For me, [a CIR] is a win-win for both sides,” says Melissa Abercrombie of the Petaluma Neighborhood Association. “You look at the information, you weigh it and you figure out what works.”

There’s an urban-growth boundary to protect Petaluma against sprawl, Abercrombie points out. “Any project that’s built within that should be the best, because it’s a limited amount of space.”

Petaluma is already looking at plans for new Target and Lowe’s stores within city limits. Among other items, a CIR would evaluate the number and types of jobs, including salary levels, that they would bring to the area. It would look at whether they would bring new sales tax revenues to city coffers or just cannibalize the sales taxes already being collected by other, usually smaller stores.

For Abercrombie, a CIR is just a way of looking at the big picture before making a decision. It’s similar to what developers do before deciding to build a project, she argues, and isn’t at all anti-development. “I would welcome a development that I thought would benefit our community, and I don’t think analyzing that makes it not happen.”

But Don Bennett sees a CIR requirement as a “fact-finding thing to determine what you don’t want in your community.” The CIR proposal, he asserts, is being supported by those who don’t want more chain stores in Petaluma. But if a lot of folks didn’t like big-box retailers, he says, they wouldn’t exist.

“If the majority of people didn’t want to shop in those places, they couldn’t keep their doors open.”

In his view, it’s more important for people to be able to shop, work and live in Petaluma. A CIR, he argues, is an attempt to have the government decide what can be built on private property based on the social aspects of the project.

But Abercrombie sees things differently.

“A CIR is just a tool so we can have a clear picture for our decision making.”

The coalition presented its CIR proposal to the Petaluma City Council in late January. Coalition members are now working with city staff to answer a number of questions raised by the council members, including how much CIRs cost and how they’ve been implemented in other communities.


The Urge to Splurge

03.05.08

A fter years of refusing to spend money on things like children’s healthcare, George W. Bush is generously giving all of us in the under-$75,000 tax bracket a $600 rebate. In the Feb. 25 issue of The New Yorker , James Surowiecki analyzes this move, noting that, while it may be akin to economist Russell Roberts’ quote about “taking a bucket of water from the deep end of a pool and dumping it into the shallow,” it could also be a welcome boost to our languishing economy. Surowiecki’s article (“The Stimulus Strategy”) is eloquent and thoughtful, but it also points out a disturbing trend: the notion that as Americans we can spend our way to prosperity.

These days, $600 doesn’t buy much. Used wisely, it’s perhaps two months of health-insurance premuims (assuming you have any), 12 tanks of gas, a small deposit in the IRA account that most people don’t have or a pittance toward the enormous credit card debt that most people do. Those who go with Uncle Sam’s plan and spend it not so wisely will end up owning a bunch of video games but will be further perpetuating the sort of financial conundrum that results in documentaries like 2006’s Maxed Out and our eventual takeover by the Chinese when the national debt comes due. Whatever we do, we’re bound to discover that spending doesn’t equal salvation.

I should know. When I worked at Macy’s, I developed a shopping addiction. I was fresh out of college and in love with a married man who didn’t love me, and I felt as powerless as any one in that set of circumstances ever could. Taking full advantage of Macy’s “generous employee discount,” I thought if I could just buy that skirt or that pair of shoes, I would feel complete. I’d look polished. I’d be in control. The man I loved would weep that he’d had the audacity to marry before he discovered me. And so I spent. I went into debt. And the next week, there would always be some other item I just had to have to fill in my inner deficit.

Whatever the reasons, I think all big spenders are trying to console themselves. In the 1999 film Fight Club , Edward Norton’s character is desolate when he loses his collection of Ikea furniture in his bombed apartment. But it’s only when he stops buying things and moves into Brad Pitt’s rotting Victorian that he actually feels alive. Severed from the myth that possessions equal satisfaction, Norton’s downtrodden corporate drone finally gets his “smirking revenge.”

Since Fight Club first piqued my interest in denying the Man his funds, I’ve been hearing about various movements of people who have jettisoned frivolous spending from their lives. In San Francisco, the ever-increasing ranks of the Compact make a yearly pledge not to buy anything new. The Rev. Billy and his Church of Stop Shopping protest Starbucks, and he has penned a book based on his sermons called What Would Jesus Buy? ; the accompanying documentary made ripples in theaters last year. And then there’s Spend Nothing Day, where people from England to Taiwan take a “holiday from consumerism.”

Yes, Mr. President, the anti-consumer movement is steadily gaining steam. One of my favorite examples is the brilliant Into the Wild , Sean Penn’s screen adaptation of the John Krakauer book. We’ve all heard the story of how a young man named Christopher McCandless abandoned modern society and eventually died in the Alaskan wilderness. In the movie, Chris, portrayed by Emile Hirsch, sneers when his parents offer to buy him a new car, declaring: “I don’t need stuff .” It’s a scene that speaks to the heart of anyone who has ever wondered just how, exactly, a BMW is supposed to bring you enlightenment.

To me, Into the Wild is almost a superhero movie, except, rather than slinging spider webs or snogging Kirsten Dunst, McCandless’ superpower is his refusal to conform to the dictates of capitalist society. Sure, Spidey is cute, but he’s also the ultimate corporate drone: working insane hours, he fights to protect the norm, valiantly battling anarchists and rescuing babies. But he’s always got to promote himself (via Peter Parker’s rigged cameras) and, at the end of the day, he’s too tired to notice that Mary Jane is growing distant. Holy American dream, Batman! Spiderman may be validated as a hero and slapped on a bunch of lunch boxes, but I’d rather die in an abandoned bus, poisoned by wild potatoes but happy that I’d actually managed to live in the first place.

With these happy sentiments in mind, I decided that in 2008 I would start my own personal rebellion against the urge to splurge. Similar to the Compact, I decided not to buy anything that wasn’t absolutely essential to my existence. No new clothes, no CDs, no DVDs, no gadgets and no pricey lattes. While I remain a great fan of movies, books and clothes, I don’t actually feel the need to buy them unless I venture too near a store.

It’s been a good start. But if you really want to see how deep you’re in, try putting a complete moratorium on spending. A few days after liberating myself from my credit card, my boss mentioned that he wanted to “up the game” to impress our clients. He spoke fondly of some past associate who always dressed to the nines, an intimidating concept for a girl who was wondering just how long she could get away without a haircut before it threatened her job. It also provided me with my first lesson: the world doesn’t get off the wagon just because you do.

This whole venture has proven to me that consumerist philosophy, despite all its charm, makes everybody miserable. Forget how much money trying to stay hip is draining from your bank account; you could spend it all, look exactly like Tyra Banks, celebrate every Hallmark holiday and afford every car that rolls off the block, and you still wouldn’t be happier. If you’re one of the poor souls in credit-card debt, as I was, you’ll be twice as miserable trying to live outside your means. Depending on what study you read, the average American is $35,000 in debt with precious little to show for it.

Fortunately, more Americans seem to be realizing this. Suzanne Barlyn, a writer for TheStreet.com, has noted that a good third of the people surveyed by the tax-information provider CCH about the so-called economic incentive package that the IRS will be mailing to us in May are planning to actually save their rebate money. In answer to the question “So, is it time to go shopping now?” Barlyn quips, “Congress may think so. But I don’t.”

The desire to actually save money may be the most heartening economic trend America has ever seen, but don’t expect it to catch on just yet. We still live in a society where money and materialism are marketed as the path to fulfillment. And we still live in an era where, in the wake of the 9-11 recession, the leader of the free world actually got on television to promote Disneyland.


Rise of the Demise

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03.05.08

E very few years during the past decade, the cultural trumpet has sounded to herald the “reemergence” of the vinyl LP. Combined with the glaring oversight of the fact that vinyl, even in the CD-crazed years of the late ’80s and ’90s, never really went away, such repeated declarations have always been weak with the dominance of digital media.

But this time, the vinyl resurgence is very real—with a little help from its digital friend, the mp3. In fact, nearly every prominent independent record label in the country—Merge, Sub Pop, Epitaph, Matador, Saddle Creek and many more—are now applying what’s becoming a familiar sticker on LP versions of their releases: “Includes coupon for free mp3 download of entire album.”

And it’s helping vinyl sell like crazy.

Stores, bands and record labels all praise the combined accessibility of LPs with enclosed mp3 download cards, but no one has responded more favorably than the customers themselves. After all, it’s a sleek and hip way of cutting out what’s becoming an increasingly maligned middleman for music consumers: the CD. It’s not infeasible that record stores, as the “real” format of vinyl becomes suavely marketable to a digital generation, could very well start becoming record stores again—mp3 download included.

Brian Davis, a buyer at San Francisco’s Amoeba Music, has seen the phenomenon’s impact firsthand. “Vinyl sales have noticeably increased in the last six to nine months,” he says, noting that the enclosed mp3 download card is so widespread for vinyl releases that it’s rarely even mentioned as a selling point anymore. “It seems to be the standard,” he says. “We just assume it now.”

Not only has Davis noticed regular customers switching from CDs to LPs lately, but he’s seen completely new customers buying LPs for the convenience of the enclosed download card. “It just makes it easier,” Davis speculates, or—hinting at the beleaguered conscience of the illegal downloader—”maybe they feel better about themselves.” And in some cases, as with Beach House’s recent Devotion album, he explains, the LP/mp3 version of a band’s album has nearly outsold the CD format at Amoeba.

The pioneer of this marketing practice is indie heavyweight Merge Records, home of acclaimed acts like the Arcade Fire, Spoon and M. Ward. Merge’s founders Mac McCaughan and Laura Balance approached their digital assets manager Wilson Fuller with the LP/mp3 idea in 2005, and shortly thereafter, the label released the Clientele’s Strange Geometry with an enclosed download card. The public response was immediate: hell yes!

“People love it!” Fuller enthuses, adding that vinyl sales have quadrupled since 2004. “It’s boosted vinyl sales, and its versatility makes labels more likely to put out vinyl. You can tell by just looking at the amount of vinyl we’re putting out now versus the last few years.”

Chad Pry, a website programmer who developed the PHP/MySQL web application for Merge, Polyvinyl, Matador, Touch & Go, Epitaph and many other labels, goes even further in his praise of the idea. “I do feel that vinyl will surely outlast CDs,” he says. “The compact disc is a total drag and will hopefully be out of our lives before too long.

“For some reason, vinyl demands my respect,” the digital-savvy Pry adds. “Maybe it’s the large album cover and format size or the great feeling of finding a cool old LP at a second hand store for a buck, or just that magical transducer, the needle in the groove.”

The download cards themselves reinforce the superiority of vinyl: “Like you, we love vinyl,” states a card inside Spoon’s Ga Ga Ga Ga Ga LP; “Your good taste has been rewarded,” says Okkervil River’s The Stage Names LP; “Thank you for purchasing vinyl,” declares Headlights’ Some Racing, Some Stopping LP.

On the card is printed a website and a randomly generated password to enter online to download the entire album, and sometimes bonus tracks, in mp3 format. Most download cards are good for one digital download, after which they expire, and the tracks are fully importable into any iPod or portable music player. Fuller says there’ve been few, if any, technical problems.

“We have had times where the pressing plant has forgotten to put the download cards into the actual records during the pressing process,” he laughs, but that’s all. Since the passwords are one-use-only, there’s no concern about piracy.

As the head of publicity over at Polyvinyl Records, Seth Hubbard is a “big believer” in the LP/mp3 format. “It’s boosted our vinyl sales significantly,” he says, “and it’s the way a lot of people buy records nowadays—it eliminates the need for the CD.” Their first LP release to include an mp3 card was Of Montreal’s Hissing Fauna, Are You the Destroyer? and customer response, he says, was and continues to be “overwhelmingly positive.”

Hubbard also points out that the downloadable mp3s are available at a near-CD-quality standard of 320kps, and that any potential losses accrued by the LP/mp3 from digital or CD sales are negligible. “The younger kids who are very tech-savvy don’t really need to buy CDs,” Hubbard says. “We’re just lucky that they’ll pay to download instead of steal it somewhere.”

All of which points to the demise of the disc. “If CD sales continue to decrease, I don’t think we’ll keep putting them out if it doesn’t make sense to keep putting them out,” Hubbard predicts, pointing out the label’s obvious allegiance to continuing to make vinyl. “We’re not stuck on the CD. I mean, we’re called Polyvinyl.”

With such great success, the LP/mp3 combo provides a rare beacon of hope for a faltering music industry. But as usual, major labels from the Warner Music Group, EMI, Sony BMG and Universal Music Group are late to the party. Although a hugely increased number of new major-label releases from the past five years have been pressed on vinyl—Amy Winehouse, Bruce Springsteen, Alicia Keys and the Foo Fighters, to name only the most high-profile examples—there’s been no evidence of the majors embracing the LP/mp3 offer. (One exception: MGMT, a psychedelic scenester band from Brooklyn signed to Columbia Records, who no doubt goaded a reluctant Sony into offering the mp3 download for their LP, Oracular Spectacular .)

“To get a major label to change how they do business, they’ve got this giant, massive entity to try and fix to adapt to this rapidly changing market,” Hubbard says. “Since Polyvinyl’s so small, we can adapt quickly. I feel like we’ll be able to stay on the cutting edge of trends.”

For their part, major labels have been faltering with sometimes altogether goofy ideas. “Ringles,” which attempted to combine a CD single with downloadable ring tones and wallpaper for cell phones, died a quick death due to compatibility issues. Similarly, albums packaged on USB drives, released for bands like the White Stripes, Matchbox 20, the Mars Volta and Ringo Starr, have experienced slow to nonexistent sales. Sometimes costing three times as much as a CD and often containing few bonuses, the USB drive serves to draw attention to an artist but generally fails to sell well, especially in the case of Ringo Starr.

“Everything always starts with the underground in the independent music scene,” says Jon Collins at Dropcards, a company that offers credit-card-style download cards for labels and bands. “Once the major labels catch on that Sub Pop has been doing it, Touch & Go has been doing it, Def Jux has been doing it, it’s only a matter of time before they start doing it as well.”

For as little as 20 cents per card, Dropcards hosts mp3 files and prints high-quality, glossy cards to include in vinyl pressings, instead of the more common photocopied coupon. A benefit is that many bands order overruns of the cards to sell at their merchandise table on tour, Collins says.

Dropcards does big business, and has printed literally millions of consumer-brand media cards for Red Bull, Disney, Vitamin Water and iTunes, designed to be given away for free. Independent labels, too, order promotional cards (“This month we’re getting slammed with South by Southwest,” Collins says), but 20 percent of the company’s business is in cards designed for inclusion in LPs, including albums by Aesop Rock and the Polyphonic Spree. As that number keeps growing significantly, Collins says, LPs with mp3 cards aren’t necessarily taking over so much as they’re starting to fill what could one day be a void of physical media.

“CDs,” he dryly observes, “seem to be making themselves pretty obsolete on their own.”


Spring Screens

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current reviews |

Ephemera: Old film footage gets revived in ‘Flames.’

By Michael S. Gant

S aved From the Flames’ (three discs; Flicker Alley; $49.99) This seven-hour collection begins with the sad fact that for about half of its history, cinema was recorded on volatile nitrate stock. As many as eight out of 10 early films are lost, irretrievable. Luckily, thanks to obsessive collectors and outfits like Blackhawk Films and Lobster Films, something of our recorded past has been salvaged, and even restored, thanks to advances in digital technology.

This Flicker Alley set presents 54 short films made from 1896 to 1944, and they only whet one’s appetite for whatever other treasures remain to be rescued. Many early clips are valuable simply because they open a window on to mundane life a century ago: workers mill around a factory, casting curious glances at Lumière’s candid camera in 1896; intrepid motorists drive and drag their cars from San Francisco to Reno in 1915.

Early filmmakers delighted in the sleight-of-hand effects of their new art, as with Georges Méliès, who enhances his own magic act with editing tricks. The astonishing 1911 Automatic Moving Company presents furniture scuttling out of a moving van and into a new house all by itself in stop-motion animation, done, according to the accompanying booklet, with doll-house furniture, although the illusion is nearly perfect.

Also included are experiments with synchronized sound (a scene from Cyrano de Bergerac ) and wonderful, labor-intensive hand-coloring. The best example is The Talion Punishment , a fantasy about human/butterfly hybrids who taunt a lepidopterist. Some familiar faces also show up. Charlie Chaplin, donning his tramp suit for the first time, wanders into the path of speeding cars in 1914’s Kid’s Auto Race , and Stan Laurel mugs in The Pest , a 1922 short about a door-to-door salesman.

The sound entries range from French theater ads for Week-End cigarettes with Fernandel and Tati, to an amazing industrial documentary about a Chevrolet factory in which unsung cinematography great George Avil creates a symphony of images from spinning gears and stamping machines.

My favorite, however, is Play Safe , a Fleischer Studios cartoon from 1936 using gorgeous early three-color Technicolor and mixing 2-D characters with 3-D sets. In seven minutes, a plucky kid moves from playing with toy trains to racing along with anthropomorphized streamliners. It beats Polar Express hands down.

‘Beowulf: Director’s Cut’ (one disc; Paramount; $29.99) Robert Zemeckis repurposes a musty epic to attract 14-year-old boys addicted to video games. King Hrothgar (Anthony Hopkins) keeps losing minions to Grendel’s pop-ins, and calls on Beowulf (Ray Winstone) to save his kingdom. Beowulf obliges and eventually snags Queen Wealthow (Robin Wright Penn, as bland in motion-capture as she is in real life) in the bargain. It’s Shrek enlivened with gore and Renaissance fair wenches.

The mead-hall action is hectic and confusing, but Crispin Glover’s tortured “mama’s boy” Grendel (“Rippéd offa me arm,” the monster bleats) and Angelina Jolie’s supermodel mom steal the hero’s Nordic thunder. The director’s cut promises scenes “too intense for theaters,” but I saw nothing that a bloody-minded child wouldn’t enjoy.

The extras are more entertaining than the film. The behind-the-scenes footage demonstrates how complicated—and ludicrous—performance-capture photography can look. The actors don their scuba suits covered with tiny sensors and wires and start jumping in their harnesses like kids in a play set. Especially amusing is the sight of Glover tearing apart miniature stuffed dummies that will eventually, through the miracle of software, become gushing monster meat.

Ultrabuffed Beowulf turns out to be doughy Ray Winstone, whose Richard Burtonesque voice would be wasted in a life-action film. Some other features show the impressive models and storyboards for the project; they even reveal that what look like spiked high heels on Grendel’s mom’s feet are actually pointy hoof claws.



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The Johnny Mann Invasion

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Jake Moore did not win the Bad 13 Challenge, but he gave bad music a run for its money. Here’s his Bad 13 playlist, with his own notes in italcis.Worst CD EVER! By Jake More1. O Holy Night—Unknown Ahh…the joys of Christmas. I will spend the rest of my life hunting down this fabulous musician so that I can hug him.2. Wenn Ich Vergn, Gt Bin, Mufl Ich Singen—Comedian HarmonistsSanctioned by Hitler as truly GREAT music. Need I say more?3. A Groovy Kind of Love—Mrs. MillerI’m actually not in the mood anymore.4. Girl from Ipenema—MeditationOrgans and sand don’t mix.5. Highly Illogical—Leonard NimoyYes it is.6. Gevald! Di Bananas (Help! The Bananas!)—David MedoffA bad song to begin with…even worse in Yiddish7. Mah-Na, Mah Na—Artist UnknownDon’t wanna get this one stuck in your ear8. Heart Full of Soul—The Johnny Mann SingersThey told each other they sounded good…go figure9. Brazil—Fausto PepettiYes, organs CAN ruin everything10. Mrs. Robinson—Guy LombardoLove exists…in many forms11. The Official Hampster Dance Song—Hampton the HampsterNot to be confused with the unOFFICIAL hamster dance song12. Electric Youth—Debbie GibsonElectric Chair13. You’re the Top—Artist UnknownCan we even call this music?“O Holy Night” is pretty amazing. Maybe some poor fellow who was full of the Christmas spirit went to one of those places at the mall where you can record a song for twenty bucks and recorded it. I kind of liked “Wenn Ich Vergn, Gt Bin, Mufl Ich Singen” (note: I probably transcribed that wrong). The Comedian Harmonists, based on what I skimmed from this Wikipedia article, had Jewish members, so probably Hitler didn’t like them after all.I didn’t know anything about Mrs. Miller before this, but now you can know EVERYTHING.As far as the Johnny Mann Singers, I personally love this kind of bullshit white person music. That others may find it highly offensive is understandable. Such Wonder Bread-ification of beloved pop songs (see “The Girl from Ipenema”, “Mrs’ Robinson”, and “Brazil” from the rest of Jake More’s CD) is limp-dicked and devoid of soul, but also oddly soothing.The Hampster dance song is a great example of how out of touch I am with pop culture today. If this hybrid of teeny bopper club music and the original Chipmunks is pop culture today, in fact, please just gimme dusty old Johnny Mann Singers albums. The version of “You’re the Top” on here is sort of like Spike Jones, punctuated with sound effects like car horns and water dripping. Silly stuff.

Wine Tasting Room of the Week

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Can’t wait for the acclaimed 2007 vintage? Sonoma County’s Barrel Tasting Month affords early birds the opportunity to sip the new wine straight from the barrel. The Sonoma Valley version is called Savor Sonoma; expect a wide variety of miniature culinary delights that add up to a meal the more spots you hit (bringing a designated eater is always a good idea). Meanwhile, the Russian River Wine Road’s barrel tasting, including Dry Creek wineries, is too big for one weekend. The event, which started last week, continues this Friday through Sunday with tastings, futures for sale and barbecues aplenty. If you haven’t been, I highly recommend it; it’s become quite a popular crowd-drawing event. Not being in the mood for crowds last weekend, I headed exactly in the opposite direction.

Homewood Winery sits on a quiet country lane just a few doors down from busy Highway 121. It’s in the flat farmlands of the Carneros but doesn’t include much vineyard land. The small tasting room adjacent to the crush pad is guarded by a vociferous canine; the main caution to exercise around Lily is not to step on her while she’s sniffing one’s shoe, as she’s roughly the size of a shoe herself. Homewood offers tasting in a small, somewhat disheveled indoor office or an outdoor deck. Indoors is where the tasty black olive and bread samples are, and the folks are low-pressure and friendly. Free tasting, anything you like. That works for me.

The 2006 Russian River Sauvignon Blanc ($18) was initially pungent with musty dish towel, but poured into a fresh glass it was golden, dude; this is a high-pitched, citrusy-tart sipper that would be a lot better with white fish in a lemon cream sauce, but I’m just guessing. The 2005 McHugh Vineyards Pinot Noir ($18) intrigues with bay leaf and cherry, but lets down with a bit of a bitter finish.

The 2005 Russian River Zinfandel ($18) and the 2005 Dry Creek Zin ($20) seem switched at birth; the former is brambly and dry while the latter is bright, with soft, juicy cherry. Upon closer inspection of a bottle later that evening, it’s confirmed that this light, pleasant Dry Creek Zin has only 12.5 percent alcohol by volume—just the kind of table-friendly claret everybody says they want to take home.

Homewood Winery, 23120 Burndale Road, Sonoma. Open daily, 10am to 4pm. No tasting fee. 707.996.6935. Russian River Wine Road Barrel Tasting continues March 7–9, 11am to 4 pm. $20. www.wineroad.com. Savor Sonoma is March 16–17, 11am–4pm. $55. [ http://www.heartofsonomavalley.com ]www.heartofsonomavalley.com.



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Trouble Brewing

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03.05.08

Stock up on American microbrews now, for a current availability crisis affecting two of beer’s main ingredients could force many popular beers and even entire microbreweries off the market within the next year. There are those who believe that the shortage of hops and barley will actually be a boon to beer; without them at the ready, brewers may follow creative new whimsies in fermenting. Perhaps there will be herbs like heather tips, yarrow and chamomile to flavor beers, and rice, wheat and honey to create the alcohol. But one thing seems almost certain: The production volume of those big bitter beers and high-alcohol whoppers that hopheads love so dearly will almost certainly decline.

Hop acreage around the globe crashed from 236,067 acres in 1992 to 113,417 acres in 2006, according to 2007 data from Hopunion LLC, a hop-distribution company based in Yakima, Wash. (Compare that number to the more than 800,000 acres of grapevines that grow in California alone.) In the same time period, U.S. hop plantings diminished from 42,266 to 29,435 acres.

But the most startling decline has occurred in the United Kingdom, where 56,000 acres of hops covered the land in 1856. A steady vaporization of the hops industry gave way to 7,700 acres of hops in 1996; today, just 2,400 acres remain. Meanwhile, from 2005 to 2006, North American barley production dropped from 15.3 million metric tons to 13.8 as foreign markets experienced declines as well, making things that much harder for microbrewers already struggling. All the while, the national and international demand for these products has increased as drinkers have come to realize that craft beer is the shit.

So how did this shortage happen? With hops, a small portion of the current problem stems back to October 2006, when a large warehouse fire in Yakima destroyed about 2 million pounds of dried hops. But the warehouse only contained 4 percent of the American hop load. The primary cause of the hopvine pullout that began so brutally in the late 1990s was a price crash generated by a devastating surplus of hops.

“There was a large stockpile of hop extract in warehouses around the world,” says Marc Worona, national sales director with the Santa Rosa arm of Brewers Supply Group West, one of the four leading suppliers of hops in America. “We all had an artificial sense of security, but a couple of years ago, this stockpile ran out. At that point, acres were down and the growers were gone.”

Prices for some highly demanded varietals of hops have surged upward by as much as 600 percent, and many farmers in Yakima and Willamette valleys, the heart and soul of the American industry, are now replanting their lands with hops to cash in once more on the demand. Worona expects to see a healthy crop load in September 2009—but the varietals being replanted are highly bitter alpha hops. These acidic varieties, such as Columbus hops, are often reduced into a simple hop extract oil for quick addition to brewing tanks, and although they’re necessary for many beer operations, they’re not the specialty aromatic sorts that microbrewers so eagerly seek.

“A lot of aromatic hops get low yields, and farmers are replacing them with the high-alpha hops for making extract,” Worona explains. “There’s a very strong alpha market right now. What it comes down to is how much we’re willing to pay for hops, and consumers for beer. If we’re not willing to pay for these hops, we’re going to lose them. We need to put our heads together and decide if it’s time we pay these farmers a fair price.”

Hayward’s Feb. 9 Double IPA Festival offered a telling snapshot of how the global hops shortage is affecting the beer business in our own backyard.

“Last year, we had over 50 beers pouring,” said Vic Kralj, owner of the Bistro, which hosts the annual event. “This year, only 36 brewers showed. Guys just aren’t willing to throw all their hops into one recipe. Right now, there aren’t many hops to get for some guys, and come June or July, there will be some breweries without any hops at all.”

Lagunitas’ Hop Stoopid, a super-Imperial IPA of 90 IBUs (international bitterness units) was entered at the festival, though brewery publicist and self-described “beer doctor” Pat Mace says it will go on hiatus next season.

“We can’t afford to make any more right now. If we did, we’d run out of hops for our IPA, our flagship beer.”

Double, or Imperial, IPAs often require two times or more the hops as milder beers, and as a general rule, craft brewers, who pride themselves on the intensified flavors of their brews, use more hops per unit of beer than the large companies. These little operations also utilize a wider range of hop varieties, and they will feel the shortage most poignantly, particularly those companies that never secured contracts, standard protocol among the macrobreweries.

Samuel Adams, the largest “craft brewery” in the nation, is in the midst of a good-Samaritan effort to help microbrewers out of this emergency. The brewery has announced that it will soon be selling 20,000 pounds of two varieties of hops to small U.S. beer makers in need, asking for no more money above what the big brewery initially paid to suppliers. But these 10 tons amount to a drop in the bucket compared to what the industry needs. Healdsburg’s Bear Republic Brewing Company, for example, uses 40,000 pounds of six varieties of hops per year, while Petaluma’s Lagunitas used 120,000 pounds of hops in 2007.

But some in the brewing business foresee interesting experiments among crafty brewers as they seek to bitter their beers in potential absence of hop flowers.

“When people face economic hardships, creativity really kicks into gear,” says Tom Bleigh, head brewer at Pyramid Breweries. “These kinds of pressures are always good to an extent. They force us to reevaluate what we’re doing and to explore parameters of beer that we otherwise would not have thought of. It’s a healthy pressure that helps us redefine what beer is.”

But some rare varieties of aromatic hops, like Amarillo and Simcoe, are actually at risk of disappearing as farmers adopt more profitable types, which carry both more alpha acids and also produce a greater tonnage of flowers per acre. And some oddities have already gone commercially extinct.

“The Eroica hop disappeared a few years ago,” says Lagunitas’ Mace. “It wasn’t very popular in general. So farmers ripped it all out. We made a beer called Eroica as a goodbye salute to the hop, and it’s totally gone now.”

As hops blow away with wind, there remains the barley shortage, which has boosted prices of malt by approximately 50 percent, according to Worona. Blame floods in from all directions—bad weather everywhere, harvest idiosyncrasies, rising demand for craft beer in developing nations—but the most commonly cited cause is the biodiesel movement. Many farmers who once raised barley have shifted to corn for the making of ethanol.

“We’re now in the position where we need to decide: Do we want to drink beer or drive biofuel cars?” Worona says.

But how dire are these shortages, should they linger longer than predicted? Is beer without hops beer without hope? Is beer without barley barely beer? But yes, some beers are brewed in the partial or complete absence of these ingredients. Lagunitas’ Brown Shugga attains approximately 25 percent of its 9.9 percent ABV from cane sugar.

Brewery Silenrieux in Belgium produces a spelt-based beer called Joseph. Crafted of 30 percent wheat malt, this refreshing and zesty brew carries a notable aroma of perfume and a breadlike body. Pyramid’s Hefeweizen consists of 60 percent wheat malt. Sorghum beers are available for those who avoid gluten, but they are criticized as flavorless and without body or character. MateVeza, a highly rated organic pale ale from Butte Creek Brewing, is bittered in part by the South American yerba maté.

If none of these ideas makes your mouth water, take solace in the opinion of David Teckam, certified beer judge and member of the American Brewers Guild in Woodland. He believes that regardless of how brewers and farmers temporarily mitigate the problems at hand, beer as we know and love it is here to stay.

“There are three items that are recession-proof,” he said. “Flowers, candy and beer. That’s something I read somewhere. I’m not certain about the flowers or candy, but beer’s been around for 10,000 years. It’s not going anywhere.”

Quick dining snapshots by Bohemian staffers.

Winery news and reviews.

Food-related comings and goings, openings and closings, and other essays for those who love the kitchen and what it produces.

Recipes for food that you can actually make.

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Up on the Hill

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03.05.08


A long Fountaingrove Parkway lies the elaborately stone-covered entrance to Varenna, Santa Rosa’s newest soon-to-be completed retirement community. On the approach, a family of deer romp quietly through the grass, but once inside the job site, clang and clamor from hundreds of workmen fills the air. Our car is immediately accosted by a guy dressed in grubbies who, having evidently just lost some of his men, leans in the window. “Hey, can you guys paint?”

Nearby, a taco truck does brisk midmorning business next to two dozen new refrigerators waiting to be installed. Up the tractor-cluttered driveway, some carpet guys are overheard discussing who may or may not be drunk on the job today. And then the grand welcome: the two-tiered fountain, the porte-cochère, the arched entrance and the absolutely gargantuan main lobby. Welcome to this totally insane thing on the hill.

As the baby-boomer generation grows older, assisted-living retirement communities with onsite healthcare have become a secure, bankable industry. Just ask Aegis Senior Living, formerly known as Gallaher Construction, one of the area’s major retirement developers. Gallaher once developed single-family subdivisions in the North Bay, but has for the past 10 years built assisted-living centers almost exclusively. Fountaingrove’s lavish Varenna is in a 29-acre stratosphere of its own.

There’s a cocktail lounge, indoor and outdoor pools, a hobby shop, spa, bocce court, library and barber shop. Regular housekeeping, meals, activities, transportation, valet service and fitness training are included. And for retirement in full regal splendor, chauffeured town-car transportation, delivered meals and personal dry cleaning are an option.

So how much does this all cost? Entrance fees for Varenna’s 250 resort-style units start at $345,000 and go up to $1.3 million; additionally, residents pay a required monthly fee of $2,700&–$5,400. Varenna’s units are not owned by residents, so these fees are essentially for the luxury of renting. And yet, even though Varenna isn’t completed, 85 percent of the units have already been taken.

“There’s been a pent-up need for something of this quality,” says Varenna project manager Bill Mabry via phone. Although the cost is high, Mabry says, there’s nothing like Varenna anywhere in the Bay Area, and “there’re a lot of people who were waiting for something like this.”

Upon move-out or death, the former resident or the estate of the deceased receives 90 percent of the original entrance fee, minus any monies owed, in case “we go into their unit and somebody had a giant beer party in there, and they threw all the chandeliers off the deck,” Mabry jokes.

While touring a model unit at Varenna, a stereo plays Tony Bennett and Barbra Streisand, softly. Hat boxes dot the walk-in closets, and bookshelves are lined with works by Mailer, Grisham and Robert Benchley. A martini shaker and a chess table sit among faux African sculptures and large prints, some of steam ships, some of flowers—victory and serenity.

Extravagance lies around every corner as one stumbles upon the wine cellar, with walls and ceiling sculpted to resemble a rock cave. Up the hill, neighborhood-style units called Casitas feature a two-car garage—with a separate, smaller garage door for a golf cart. The trip from the main patio down to the lake is made easy by a planned sky tram.

For wealthy retirees still on the fence, Varenna has a slam-dunk selling point, and it’s undeniably breathtaking: the 150-degree view looking out over the lake to the coastal mountains. Rolling by on the job site covered in sawdust, even Bob Pospisil, Varenna’s construction manager, echoes the sentiment. “It’s just kick-butt beautiful,” he agrees.

Not all is serene on the hill, however. Though Varenna was welcomed by the Fountaingrove Master Homeowners Association (FMHA), a smaller assisted-care project down the hill, also proposed by Aegis, has been ensnared in public objections from the FMHA and stalled in an environmental impact report for over a year. It’s called the Lodge at Fountaingrove, and it’s oriented specifically toward gays and lesbians.

After two and a half years, Aegis has not yet broken ground on the Lodge and Mabry says that though the costs of the opposition now are reaching over half a million dollars—an amount that would normally kill a project—Aegis remains financially and morally dedicated to the many gay and lesbian seniors waiting to move in. Asked if Aegis plans to stick with it, Mabry’s answer is swift and resolute: “Absolutely.”


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03.05.08Stock up on American microbrews now, for a current availability crisis affecting two of beer's main ingredients could force many popular beers and even entire microbreweries off the market within the next year. There are those who believe that the shortage of hops and barley will actually be a boon to beer; without them at the ready, brewers may...

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Up on the Hill

03.05.08A long Fountaingrove Parkway lies the elaborately stone-covered entrance to Varenna, Santa Rosa's newest soon-to-be completed retirement community. On the approach, a family of deer romp quietly through the grass, but once inside the job site, clang and clamor from hundreds of workmen fills the air. Our car is immediately accosted by a guy dressed in grubbies who, having...
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