True Believer

The impassioned qualities Paul Schrader brings to First Reformed are exactly what one hopes for in a religion: it’s compelling even when you don’t believe it.

Ernst Toller (Ethan Hawke) is a solitary pastor, a devotee of Kierkegaard and Thomas Merton in a working-class upstate New York wowed by charismatic churches. Toller leads the steepled, 250-year-old First Reformed church in Albany. It’s a bone thrown at him by Jeffers, the well-fed pastor of the Abundant Life megachurch (Cedric Kyles, aka Cedric the Entertainer).

Toller’s pregnant parishioner Mary (Amanda Seyfried) approaches the pastor about her troubled husband, Michael (Philip Ettinger), tormented about bringing a baby into a world doomed by climate change. Mary finds evidence that Michael plans a terrorist act. His likely target: a billionaire climate-change denier (Michael Gaston), modeled after one of the Koch brothers, who is a major donor to Abundant Life and First Reformed. Torn by his own uncertainty, and convinced by Michael’s ecological activism, Toller wonders if he should make a martyr of himself.

Seyfried is the sun in this wintry movie, warming it up; her long blonde hair falls like a curtain in front of the camera. And Hawke is very convincing as a wifeless, childless divine whose devotion to duty has almost destroyed him. If Toller is the type of Protestant scold who advertises his next sermon as “Will God Forgive Us?” he shows compassion when a class of visiting kids tour the holiest place in the church. It’s the trapdoor concealed under a pew, a leftover from when First Reformed was a stop on the Underground Railroad. Toller’s eagerness to make the kids understand is very touching.

Every now and again, one glimpses Hawke measuring the effect of his own acting. And sometimes Schrader seems to turn Toller into his most famous character, Travis Bickle of Taxi Driver. Toller is part of Schrader’s career-long obsession with fanatics, and the director’s continuing question of how deeply into the woods one can follow a madman.

‘First Reformed’ is playing at Rialto Cinemas, 6868 McKinley St., Sebastopol,. 707.525.4840.

A County Divided

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Patricia Damery grows grapes and lavender in Napa County. A supporter of Measure C—that called for woodland and watershed protections on hillsides—she showed up at the raucous victory celebration June 5 at St. Helena’s Native Sons Hall, founded in 1915.

Damery, her friends and a hundred or so supporters of C, had good reason to celebrate. At the end of the day on June 5 , yes on Measure C was ahead, albeit only by 40 votes. 7,188 citizens voted yes, while 7,148 voted no.

John Tuteur, the Napa County Registrar of Voters, said that as of June 7 there were still between 15,000 and 25,000 votes to be counted. Tuteur added that “The final results will not be certified until the week of June 25 at which time victory can be declared by one side or the other.”

Measure D, which called for restrictions on private heliports, was less controversial. It won by about 3,000 votes.

For the first time ever in Napa, all voting was by mail.

Supporters of C monitored the electoral process at the office of the Napa County Registrar of Voters to make sure no irregularities took place.
Mike Hackett, the co-author with Jim Wilson of C, said, “It would be very difficult to cheat at the polls. We saw no wrongdoing.”

No on C supporters gathered a stone’s throw away from the Native Sons Hall at Tra Vigne, the upscale pizzeria on Main Street in St. Helena. While they were disappointed by the results on C, they were elated by the victory of Diane Dillon for supervisor.

The incumbent in the race, Dillon defeated Lucio Perez, a farmer known to friends and family as “Cio,” who was a strong supporter for Measure C.

“I feel pretty good about the results,” Dillon told her supporters who chanted “Diane! Diane!” The June 5 tally showed that she received 55 percent of the votes. Unlike Perez, who entered the race late in the campaign, she did not tie herself directly to Measure C. Perez faulted her for trying to “stay in the middle.”

“I actually had a position,” he said.

At her victory celebration, Dillon spoke about the need for “sustainable agriculture and for open spaces” and insisted that she wanted “the community to come together.”

Whether or not Napa heals its wounds depends in part on the Napa County Farm Bureau, which officially supported the No on C campaign.
But many Farm Bureau members, including Cio Perez himself, as well as his allies, Mary Sue Frediani and Yeoryios C. Apallas, who grows Cabernet grapes, rejected the leadership of the organization and its president Manuel Rios.

“I’m on the opposite end of the political spectrum from Rios,” Apallas said. “But he also takes care of my vineyard.”

Napa is so small, geographically speaking— 789 square miles, as opposed to Sonoma’s 1,768 square miles—and so insular, that political adversaries often work together to harvest the crop that makes the county world famous.

Some yes on C supporters predicted the implosion of the Napa Farm Bureau, though no one would go on the record on that topic. Apallas held out an olive branch to the farm bureau so that the community would come together and the beauty of Napa might be preserved.

Born in Greece in 1946, Apallas served as the deputy attorney general for the State of California from 1973 to 2000 and later worked as the general council for the Pabst Brewing Company.

“I took money from beer and put into wine,” he said and laughed. He added, “Our lives are too ephemeral not to have a sense of humor. What defines us as humans is our ability to laugh at ourselves.”

At the Native Sons Hall in St. Helena on Election Day, Patricia Damery—the lavender and grape grower—wasn’t laughing.

“After this campaign, I no longer respect some of my neighbors who opposed C,” she said. “They put up signs meant to confuse people.”
The signs were still up on June 6 as Damery looked forward.

“We will have to forgive one another,” she said, adding, “The battle for democracy will go on.”

Local Knowledge

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Describe your perfect day in Guerneville?

Waking up to a beautiful sunrise and doing my morning gardening with my yellow Lab, Skye, who is trying to get me to throw the toy one more time. Then we load up the kayaks and the dog, and drive across the river to our family property, where we unload and play fetch in the water with Skye. We lazily trek up river, enjoying the water, wildlife and an occasional paddler who stops to say hello. Once we reach Monkey Island, we beach the kayaks and set up our afternoon picnic. After a brief nap and more fetch, we get back in our kayaks and head home for dinner. After dinner, we watch the Giants win and prepare for sleeping under the stars where it’s nice and cool, and we fall asleep gazing up into the night sky—listening to the crickets, frogs and other creatures out there among the redwood trees.

Where is your favorite place to eat in Guerneville and why?

Anywhere from the Russian River Pub to the Tides in Bodega Bay, and everywhere in between, you will find delicious offerings for breakfast, lunch and dinner, whether you’re in Rio Nido, Guerneville, Monte Rio, Duncans Mills, Occidental, Jenner or Bodega Bay.

Where do you take first-time visitors in Guerneville?

Armstrong Woods State Park, of course! It’s an easy stroll for those who are elderly and an adventurous place for the youth who want to run, climb or enjoy hiking to Bullfrog Pond. Another nice tour for first timers is the Garden-Winery Tour at Korbel.

What do you know about Guerneville that others don’t?

I don’t think there is anything I know about Guerneville that others don’t, as there actually are some residents who are older than me!

If you could change one thing about Guerneville what would it be?

There isn’t just one thing I would like to change about Guerneville, as there are many issues that need to resolved: drug use, homelessness, robberies, lack of sheriff’s deputies, no parking, lack of affordable housing. I guess if I could change just one thing, it would be to go back to yesteryear when we went on evening hayrides, screamed down the Super Slide, rode go-carts and played miniature golf, all while drinking a Mountain Dew and chewing on a wax Coke penny candy and living to tell about it.

Russian Revels

One of west Sonoma County’s most celebrated vacation destinations, Johnson’s Beach, located along the Russian River in Guerneville, turns 100 this summer.

Most famous as the spot of massive jazz and blues music festivals for over 40 years, the beach is also known by locals as the place to swim, sun, picnic and rent boats for a day of adventure on the river.

The beach’s biggest fans are owners Nick Moore and Dan Poirer, who purchased and took over operations of the property in 2015 from longtime owner Clare Harris.

“I have been going to Johnson’s and Guerneville for 35 years,” Moore says. “From my college days at UC Davis, all though my career in San Francisco, I would come up every other weekend and camp and get out on the river.”

“We recognized the history and reputation that Johnson’s Beach had, and we didn’t want mess that up,” says Poirer. “We wanted to continue to keep it a family destination to spend the day or spend the weekend and have a fun, safe family time.”

Located within walking distance of downtown Guerneville, Johnson’s Beach is more than a stretch of sand and a boat-rental building, though even Moore and Poirer say it took them a few years of visiting to realize that the property features a hidden gem of a resort that encompasses a historic lodge, vintage cabins from the 1920s and a campground surrounded by redwoods.

“It makes a wonderful experience to camp and be able to walk right to the beach and walk into town,” Moore says.

Given their deep bond with the beach, Moore and Poirier are also dedicated to continuing the music festivals that have taken place there each summer since 1976’s first Russian River Jazz Festival. The jazz festival quickly became a summer staple in Sonoma County, and a blues festival was added in 1996. The blues event typically took place in June; the jazz festival happened in September.

In 2007, producers Omega Events took over operations and combined the separate shows into the single Russian River Jazz & Blues Festival that’s kept the tradition of welcoming headlining acts to the river for a communal weekend each September.

This year’s centennial celebration of the beach inspired Moore and Poirer to pitch Omega with an expanded summer schedule of festivities, starting with splitting the blues and jazz shows back to their separate weekends, with a two-day Russian River Jazz Festival happening Sept. 8–9, and the Russian River Blues Festival moving up to
June 10 (See Music, p20.)

New this year, the beach gets its own day in the sun at the Johnson’s Beach Feel Good Beach Party on Saturday, June 9. Aside from featuring headliners Goo Goo Dolls and Shaggy, the beach party boasts a localized lineup showcasing Santa Rosa rockers Kingsborough and Forestville native David Luning and his band. Eclectic Bay Area bands Royal Jelly Jive and the California Honeydrops round out the upbeat lineup.

“We’re thrilled to be the custodians who can bring Johnson’s Beach into another hundred years,” says Poirer. “We hope that this going to be a celebratory season.”

Trail Travails

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Last week, the California Senate unanimously passed a bill introduced by Sen. Mike McGuire that would create the long-anticipated Great Redwood Trail, extending from San Francisco Bay to Humboldt Bay.

But don’t lace those hiking boots just yet.

McGuire’s proposal, SB 1029, calls for the eventual construction of a 319-mile trail from Napa and Marin counties up to Humboldt County, along railbed now maintained by the debt-wracked North Coast Railroad Authority. The NCRA was created by the California Legislature about 30 years ago.

The trail would offer hikers a path that would run through old-growth redwood forests, along the Russian and Eel rivers, and end at Humboldt Bay.

“[Senate Bill] 1029 sets the stage to turn this 300-mile long-suffering train track into a world-renowned trail system,” says McGuire in a statement, “that will benefit locals and visitors alike and be a boon to our local economies.”

But there’s a big roadblock before any of that can occur. The cash-strapped NCRA is based in Ukiah, and as part of his bill, McGuire calls for the dissolution of the agency once it has paid off the estimated $9.1–$9.6 million in debt now on its books.

According to the California Transportation Commission (CTC), roughly half of the debt, $4.2 million, is owed to the Northwest Pacific Company (NWP Co.), which is co-owned by former North Coast Congressman Doug Bosco.

Bosco says the debt to NWP Co. is the result of the state creating the NCRA and not adequately funding it. “They never got any money from the state,” Bosco says. The NWP Co. stepped in to, among other things, pay off legal debts accrued by the NCRA over two lawsuits; one was brought by the city of Novato and cost the NCRA $750,000 in legal fees picked up by the NWP Co. The NCRA and NWP Co. are currently locked into a 99-year lease, Bosco says.

Under McGuire’s bill, the NCRA is obliged to pay off its debt to the NWP Co., even as the bill calls for the dissolution of the NCRA after it has paid off all its debts. So what about that lease?

“The debt would still be owed,” says Bosco, who is also an investor at Sonoma Media Investments, which owns the Press Democrat.

So why doesn’t the state just come in and pay off that portion of the debt, to clear the way for this much-anticipated public use trail? “It could pay the debt if it wanted to,” Bosco says.

And what’s the deal with a private company making loans to a public agency? “It’s unusual and it’s a bit concerning,” says McGuire. “It will take several years to unwind the mess that the NCRA is in,” he adds and notes that the authority will “hit a crisis point in their finances” this fall, which is why McGuire is pushing for his bill now.

According to recent figures from the CTC, the NCRA also owes $2.7 million to the Federal Rail Authority on a 25-year note, which runs through 2036. And, as of January of this year, it was holding about $2.2 million in accounts payable, accrued expenses, accrued interest and other liabilities, according to the CTC, which criticized the debt-plagued authority in January for failing to come up with a plan for future solvency.

The NCRA has since backed the plan for its eventual dissolution under the McGuire bill.

[page]

Back in January, the CTC issued a report that drilled into the debt issue facing the NCRA and said the authority could pay off those debts through a combination of state bailouts and a renegotiated contract with the NWP Co., which was first signed in 2006 and enacted in 2011. Or it could just go the bailout route for the entire debt, the CTC wrote.

“Total debts are $9.1 million,” the CTC wrote in January, “and NCRA has no liquid assets or realistic prospects of future cash flow from operations to pay off this debt, he says. Many of the liabilities are delinquent and others are vulnerable to collection demands by the creditors.”

Enter McGuire, who says that the CTC estimates have spiked by upwards of another half-million dollars since January. The CTC will ultimately sign off on any deal reached to settle the NCRA debt. Under the Healdsburg senator’s bill, once its past debts are paid off, the NCRA would be dissolved, and the tracks it maintains would be split between two agencies, with a dividing line at the Mendocino County town of Willits.

The tracks north of Willits would be maintained by a new entity called the Great Redwood Trail Agency. The tracks south of Willits would be managed by the Sonoma-Marin Area Rail Transit (SMART), which currently uses about 45 miles of railbed for its passenger trains, and has plans to eventually expand to a 70-mile corridor spanning Sonoma and Marin counties. The NWP Co. now runs freight trains along 62 miles of track, from Lombard to Windsor, and shares track with SMART.

(Bosco says he’d like to extend the existing freight service north to Cloverdale, and the CTC notes that “it is likely that freight operations will be extended to Cloverdale in northern Sonoma when SMART eventually extends its services there.”)

The SMART train was supposed to include a pedestrian and bike path along the whole route upon completion. According to SMART online maps, that’s a work in progress, and there are numerous stretches along the route where the promised bike and pedestrian pathway is either in progress or put off to a future date.

McGuire’s bill also expands the scope of the state-created SMART board of directors to “consider the need and financing for employee workforce housing,” as it adds another board member to the new rail agency drawn from Mendocino County. The SMART board is currently comprised of elected officials from Sonoma and Marin counties. Under McGuire’s bill, SMART would be responsible for passenger and freight service in the southern section of the right-of-way, “and will build the southern section of the Great Redwood Trail.”

McGuire says his bill is supported by organizations ranging from the Sierra Club to Trout Unlimited, and that it was one of the Green California “Hot List” of must-pass bills this year.

He is pitching it as a boon to a local economy to the north of Sonoma County, which now over-relies on cannabis production. And, he says, it’s supported by SMART, which pushed for the language in the bill that would create workforce housing for rail workers.

“The Great Redwood Trail will be a significant economic driver for the rural North Coast communities it would wind through,” he says as he highlights the potential benefit to tourism and local economies. “California outdoor recreation is one of the fastest growing sectors of the Golden State’s economy. It generates over $92 billion a year here in California, is responsible for nearly 700,000 jobs with over $30 billion in wages, and brings over $6 billion in tax revenues back to state and local communities. The trail will attract hundreds of thousands of locals and visitors alike to hike this spectacular landscape and inject needed funds into our small, rural economies.”

The newly established Great Redwood Trail Agency would have its own board of directors drawn from regional elected officials.

The bad news is that it will be a while before it’s all sorted out. “We’ve always known that this will be a multi-year process,” McGuire says.

The good news is that the
state is now fully tuned in to
the NCRA fiscal debacle and
its implications. This year’s senate budget would provide
$4.1 million, split between
a master plan for the trail
($1.5 million) and long-overdue repairs at NCRA rail crossings ($2.6 million), which, McGuire
says, have been neglected for decades.

Do Some Good

It was the first day of Ramadan, May 17. I started fasting at 4:30am. No water or food until sundown at 8:18pm. That morning, at 11:30am, almost lunch hour, my boss leaned against my desk chatting and eating Rainier cherries. He’s a delightful character. He meant no harm or insult, and I have no need for him to change just because I’m not eating for 16 hours.

I am an observant Muslim, a minority in a local culture of alcohol and pork. I’m the one who scours the menu to avoid ubiquitous bacon and queries the waiter, could the chef make that piccata without wine? There’s no hardship in it for me; it’s a choice I make because I feel so enriched by the practice of my faith. I’m a California girl who made a lifestyle change in her 50s, and found peace in prayer and moderation.

Ramadan is the ninth month of the Islamic calendar. One goal during the 30 days of fasting is to rekindle one’s relationship to God through service and remembrance of the needy. Acts of kindness are a great goal anytime. The Interfaith Council of Sonoma County Muslim support campaign, Of One Soul, invites all Sonoma County on Sunday, June 10, to join a day of fasting—a lot or not. Definitely join by doing good works. We call it Insist on Kindness. Meet up with us or do it on your own.

If you know a project needing volunteers, let us know. So far we’re serving the homeless, helping the St. Vincent de Paul Thrift Store and meeting for breakfast at King Falafel in Sebastopol.

Check out Insist on Kindness on Facebook, or email in**@**************ma.org.

Aisha Morgan lives in Rohnert Park and has worked in K-12 education since 1980.

Open Mic is a weekly feature in the ‘Bohemian.’ We welcome your contribution. To have your topical essay of 350 words considered for publication, write op*****@******an.com.

Letters to the Editor: June 6, 2018

Mars Mails It In

As a music-festival veteran and Napa local, I’ve yet to miss a full day of great live music at my hometown’s biggest party since BottleRock’s inception. When they throw a party at your place, you gotta be there, yeah?

Most important, though, is the excited and warm positivity attendees bring, from near and far, young and old. And all have at least some level of expectation that the performers, ostensibly doing what they love while being paid by us, give us all they got.

Too much to ask? I say no. And until this year’s grand finale by Bruno Mars, a show that a whole lot of cash-paying music lovers expected to blow us away, all performers have delivered.

I’m just not sure how Bruno Mars justifies mailing it in on Sunday night. He was 20 minutes late, but that did not temper our mass expectation, and shit happens. But to complain that we, his fans and paying customers, were “just not ready to party” and to treat us to a beautiful 10-minute keyboard solo (really?), then top off the full diva effect by walking offstage 20 minutes early, is not acceptable.

Math has never been of interest to me, but I bet there are many with math skills, with more time than me and the same feeling of being taken for granted, who could come up with what Bruno owes us for his petulant and abbreviated set.

Napa

Shining a Light

Great article (“Napa Sunset,” May 30). Thank you to Jonah Raskin for writing and to the Bohemian for featuring this well-written feature story.

Napa

In Memoriam

Have we not been down this road before?
This pain that strikes us to the core . . .

To our children, we’re forever bound,
but, now, no comfort to be found.

In our memories and in our dreams . . .
Cannot put to rest these silent screams.

Their storied lives spent . . .
the laughter . . . the tears;
so much joy and so much fear—

will not be told this very day,
for they no longer come to play.

Their fiery spirits that once burned
so bright;
now scattered embers to a darkened night.

Grief-stricken faces turn from the sun;
the words all spoken, the hymns all sung;

Under skies of blue, wooden boxes on grass,
the tear-stained countenance of sorrow will last . . .

An eternity and more won’t replenish our souls;
as the breath becomes short, the earth becomes cold.

We find your answers to questions unreliable;
the rudeness of your responses, undeniable.

Santa Rosa

Write to us at le*****@******an.com.

Highs and Lows

Well, the High Times Cannabis Cup came to town this past weekend, and it’s hard to not compare it to our more or less local Emerald Cup, especially since this is Sonoma County’s first adults-only post-fake-legalization event.

The crowds were thinner and the demographics have shifted dramatically toward more seniors and middle-aged folks, often attending as couples. This was especially noticeable without the twitchy throngs of the younger post-millennial generations.

That the attendance was sparse both days also reminds us that the market for cannabis fairs is pretty much saturated, just as the California market for cannabis itself is flooded, given that, unlike in states newly “legalizing,” Californians have long had essentially unfettered access through black and gray markets.

That access continues despite—or because of—racketeering by Big Pot and its government minions. In a way, this regulatory regime guarantees a thriving black market for cannabis in California, at least until cannabis becomes “legal” throughout the country. And it provides yet another reality check for the wildly inflated anticipated tax revenues that state bean counters have used to justify their industrial action—as they try to fund their shriveling pensions.

Vendors presented the full gamut of commercial attitudes: some wanted to share their bounty without cost but were constrained by regulation against giving it away, so they attached a token $1 charge. Others offered prices that seemed to be unencumbered by the excessive tax burden found outside the event. And some simply expressed the celebratory mood by sharing with all.

Nonetheless, these folks represented a microcosm of the remaining cannabis culture and industry, celebrating its substantial accomplishments and its survival (so far) of regulatory suppression and extortion.

The mood was relaxed and happy, with only an undercurrent of resentment at the regulatory overburden. The only openly fractiousness was an intrusive battle-of-the-bands, as booths cranked up their tunes to compete with their neighbors’ music, seemingly oblivious that they were interfering with conversations and annoying their own customers. Clearly, cannabis is not an antidote for narcissism.

There was accomplishment for all to see and taste: outstanding biodynamically grown flowers; exotic cocktails of pure extracts; exquisite flavor blends in edibles; advances in cultivation, curing, extraction and technology; and a strong sense of community from the sharing of a benign wellness therapy and a relaxed and creative experience.

Alexander Carpenter is the organizer of the Sonoma County Cultivation Group.

Hands-On Theater

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Ten down-on-their-luck Texans gather on a car lot to compete for a cherry red Nissan pickup. They must lay their gloved hands upon the truck and, except for scheduled breaks every six hours, never let go. The last person standing wins. That’s the premise behind Hands on a Hardbody, a 2012 musical now in its Bay Area premiere run at Napa’s Lucky Penny Productions.

Based on a 1997 documentary that followed 24 contestants in an actual endurance competition, Pulitzer Prize–winning playwright Doug Wright trimmed the number of contestants to 10, and Trey Anastasio (Phish) and Amanda Green composed a Tony-nominated score to tell their backstories.

For those who don’t think there’s enough here for a full-length musical, each contestant explains what they’d do “If I Had This Truck.” Benny (Brian Watson) won the contest before, but has since lost the truck and his wife. Ronald (Michael David Smith) thinks his all-Snickers diet is the ticket to victory (he’s mistaken). J.D. (Barry Martin) sees the truck as a way to regain his virility. Greg (Ryan Hook) and Kelli (Kirstin Pieschke) meet and then make plans to drive away to Hollywood together. Janis (Lucinda Hitchcock Cone) is doing it for her kids. Jesus (Alexander Gomez) could use some help putting himself through vet school. Chris (Michael Scott Wells) is a military vet who’s looking to make his son proud. Heather (Jenny Angell) may have the inside track, but Norma (Daniela Innocenti Beem) has God on her side.

Benny is the ostensible lead, but it’s a true ensemble piece with each character, including the non-contestants involved (spouses, the car dealers, a radio DJ), having his or her moment. Credit to director Taylor Bartolucci for assembling a talented, diverse cast to explore the themes beneath the surface, and to choreographer Staci Arriaga for figuring out how to make the cast move with one hand attached to a truck at all times—well, mostly. Musical director Craig Burdette leads a four-piece band in the heavily country and western–influenced score whose musical highlight is the raucous gospel number “Joy of the Lord.”

Basically, it’s A Chorus Line with a truck. At two and a half hours, it runs a bit long, but by the end you’ll be giving a hand to this Hardbody.

Rating (out of 5): ★★★★

Real Bohemian

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If you’re looking at a map right side up, the namesake river of the Russian River Valley viticultural area appears to hang a sharp left right in the middle of the region, and weaves toward Guerneville through the redwood-forested canyon like a tipsy but determined tippler through an increasingly dark and crowded bar.

You might guess that, as a wine region, this artistic enclave and vacation wonderland would harbor the kinds of wineries founded by real bohemians, and you’d be right about that in the case of Korbel Champagne Cellars, whose estate vineyards have hugged a bend in the river since the latter quarter of the 19th century. Korbel was founded by three bohemians from Bohemia, proper.

Confused? Long before the term “bohemian” was associated with impoverished artists drinking absinthe in louche company, it mainly applied to a region of hardworking German-speakers in the western part of what’s now the Czech Republic. Not that student Francis Korbel didn’t get himself into a spot of radical fallout in 1848, the tumultous granddaddy to 1968’s Prague Spring, with similar results.

For his part, Korbel was sent to the Daliborka Tower prison in Prague Castle, a fate that might only seem romantic if you’re drinking cheap Czech beer and scribbling in your notebook about it circa 1992. Still, long after Korbel got out, allegedly sauntering out the gates in civilian clothes, he memorialized his dreary imprisonment by building a brick tower reminiscent of Daliborka at his winery on the banks of the Russian River.

You’ll learn all this and more on the free tour at Korbel, which includes a smart, Ken Burns–esque documentary screened in a little theater with wooden pews for seats—sweater-vest-wearing historian narrator not optional! The tour starts in the railway station of the Korbel brothers’ own stop on the San Francisco and North Pacific Railroad—something to think about on your drive west on River Road, which was originally built as a railroad, not an auto road.

Once was the time that bohemian folk loved the retro stuff, and you can hardly get more retro than the delightfully dated tasting room at Korbel (aside from the sadly shuttered but amazingly time-frozen Italian Swiss Colony tasting room in Asti), where cool, sparkling wine is called “California champagne” by decree of, well, the inheritors of that bohemian legacy. Of course, Bohemia is better known for its beer, and the same might be said of the Russian River these days—Russian River Brewing Co. got its start at Korbel, and the deli here still has beers that are coveted elsewhere on sale for your picnic lunch: Pliny the Elder, Damnation and a few more.

Korbel Champagne Cellars,
13250 River Road, Guerneville. Tasting Room open daily, 10am–4:30pm; tours, 11am–3:45pm. 707.824.7000.

True Believer

The impassioned qualities Paul Schrader brings to First Reformed are exactly what one hopes for in a religion: it's compelling even when you don't believe it. Ernst Toller (Ethan Hawke) is a solitary pastor, a devotee of Kierkegaard and Thomas Merton in a working-class upstate New York wowed by charismatic churches. Toller leads the steepled, 250-year-old First Reformed church in...

A County Divided

Patricia Damery grows grapes and lavender in Napa County. A supporter of Measure C—that called for woodland and watershed protections on hillsides—she showed up at the raucous victory celebration June 5 at St. Helena’s Native Sons Hall, founded in 1915. Damery, her friends and a hundred or so supporters of C, had good reason to celebrate. At the...

Local Knowledge

Describe your perfect day in Guerneville? Waking up to a beautiful sunrise and doing my morning gardening with my yellow Lab, Skye, who is trying to get me to throw the toy one more time. Then we load up the kayaks and the dog, and drive across the river to our family property, where we unload and play fetch in...

Russian Revels

One of west Sonoma County's most celebrated vacation destinations, Johnson's Beach, located along the Russian River in Guerneville, turns 100 this summer. Most famous as the spot of massive jazz and blues music festivals for over 40 years, the beach is also known by locals as the place to swim, sun, picnic and rent boats for a day of adventure...

Trail Travails

Last week, the California Senate unanimously passed a bill introduced by Sen. Mike McGuire that would create the long-anticipated Great Redwood Trail, extending from San Francisco Bay to Humboldt Bay. But don't lace those hiking boots just yet. McGuire's proposal, SB 1029, calls for the eventual construction of a 319-mile trail from Napa and Marin counties up to Humboldt County, along...

Do Some Good

It was the first day of Ramadan, May 17. I started fasting at 4:30am. No water or food until sundown at 8:18pm. That morning, at 11:30am, almost lunch hour, my boss leaned against my desk chatting and eating Rainier cherries. He's a delightful character. He meant no harm or insult, and I have no need for him to change...

Letters to the Editor: June 6, 2018

Mars Mails It In As a music-festival veteran and Napa local, I've yet to miss a full day of great live music at my hometown's biggest party since BottleRock's inception. When they throw a party at your place, you gotta be there, yeah? Most important, though, is the excited and warm positivity attendees bring, from near and far, young and old....

Highs and Lows

Well, the High Times Cannabis Cup came to town this past weekend, and it's hard to not compare it to our more or less local Emerald Cup, especially since this is Sonoma County's first adults-only post-fake-legalization event. The crowds were thinner and the demographics have shifted dramatically toward more seniors and middle-aged folks, often attending as couples. This was especially...

Hands-On Theater

Ten down-on-their-luck Texans gather on a car lot to compete for a cherry red Nissan pickup. They must lay their gloved hands upon the truck and, except for scheduled breaks every six hours, never let go. The last person standing wins. That's the premise behind Hands on a Hardbody, a 2012 musical now in its Bay Area premiere run...

Real Bohemian

If you're looking at a map right side up, the namesake river of the Russian River Valley viticultural area appears to hang a sharp left right in the middle of the region, and weaves toward Guerneville through the redwood-forested canyon like a tipsy but determined tippler through an increasingly dark and crowded bar. You might guess that, as a wine...
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