La Vie la Rose

I spent last Wednesday, Thursday and Friday at the Hotel La Rose in Santa Rosa, since I could not get home to Guerneville through the flood waters. I had been in Pennsylvania talking to young writers at Bloomsburg University, and did not realize how isolated my home had become while I was away.

I love the La Rose, having rented a room from them once so I could finish a manuscript and needed a room where I could spread chapters all over the floor. They were happy to give me just that, and this time they welcomed me with a warm, dry room and a short walk to the nearby thrift stores where I bought a clean T-shirt for pajamas and a bathing suit just in case. Didn’t need the bathing suit but the T-shirt lasted for two nights, and I am going to keep it as a memento of the great flood of 2019.—Dorothy Allison, author of ‘Bastard Out of Carolina’

Making a Stand in Guerneville

Tom Lynch had four feet of water in his Guerneville house after the rains and flooding along the Russian River. His wife and his 15-year-old daughter got out of Guerneville and went to somewhat higher ground in Sebastopol. Tom and his mother-in-law stayed at home to brave the extreme weather in a town that was all but cut off for days because of the flooding. While the downstairs of his home was wet, upstairs was dry.

A colorful candidate for county supervisor a few years ago, Lynch has lived in Guerneville since 1980. “I’ve seen floods before,” he says, sounding not one bit intimidated by the Great Flood of 2019. Indeed, it would take a flood of Biblical proportions to dislodge tom Tom Lynch from his Guerneville niche.—Jonah Raskin

Going with the Flow in Forestville

I’m on River Drive in Forestville. We left on Tuesday evening, Feb. 26, in anticipation of the rising water. We knew we would get hit, and prepared by removing everything from the basement, which we had made into a living space for two teens. I assumed we would get four to four-and-a-half-feet of water. I was wrong. The silt line on the house is at about seven and a half feet.

Coming home to River Drive was surreal: A neighbor’s car was turned over, and was washed into the middle of the street by the current. I lost parts of all four sides of fencing, and my yard is full of oddities: a wooden duck, a garden bench that doesn’t belong to me, a brown tattered suitcase, which happens to be partially unzipped and full of clothes. And mud. Slimy stinky mud.

The mess and repair is daunting, but I have a charming river home and I love it. Living on the river is not for everyone, but there’s a state of being that happens out here when the river reminds us that we aren’t in control—a muddy acceptance of our connection to the river and a kinship with neighbors that reminds us we are in this together. River rats in California hillbilly country. I love it.—Angelina Hovan

The Literary View from Monte Rio

Poet Pat Nolan has lived in Monte Rio along the Russian River since 1973. “Right now it’s not a pretty picture here,” he says. Nolan had four feet of water in his studio, where he makes block prints. He knew the flood was coming—he listened to the National Weather Service— and so he and his wife moved everything they could to prevent severe damage. They even took up the carpet.

“Old-timers survive floods better than newcomers,” says the old-timer Nolan. “After the flood of 1995, we had our house raised above the floodplain, so we were in relatively good shape this time. Not so our neighbors. They got seven feet of water in their place.”

The Russian River is now down from what it was, but in Monte Rio, the flooding made a mess. “There’s a lot of mud and silt,” Nolan says. “It covers everything.” When the river peaked and the creek backed up, he and his wife couldn’t leave. Now, they can come and go and reflect on the Great Flood of 2019.—Jonah Raskin

Split Scene in Sebastopol

I heard the rain pouring all night and morning in my Sebastopol neighborhood. When I got up, I was surprised how little standing water there was in my backyard. Love the sandy-loam soil. Gratefully, we were high and dry. It wasn’t until I saw a Facebook post of someone paddling past the Highway 12 Chevron later that morning that I knew things were not going so well across town.

I took my kids down to the Barlow because I knew it was flood-prone. And flood it did. We watched in amazement as kayakers stroked down McKinley Street to the water’s end at Taylor Lane. A Circle of Hands, my daughter’s favorite toy store, was an island. Although it was near noon, Community Market workers appeared to be just erecting their flood barriers in face of the rising tide of flood waters.

“Put down your cell phones and help,” called out one of them to disaster gawkers like me.

It’s bizarre how there can be devastation on one block and normalcy the next block over. It’s like toggling between two worlds. The morning of the flood in Sebastopol had that feeling. People rode bicycles on closed streets, friends chatted with coffee in hand and kids out of school wandered about—while a few feet away businesses and dreams lay under three feet of brown water.—Stett ‘Sebastopol Strong’ Holbrook

Huffman’s Rolling Thunder Tour

It wasn’t raining, pouring or storming, but U.S. Congressman Jared Huffman barnstormed across swaths of Sonoma County that were hardest hit by February’s floods. According to the most recent tally, 2,600 properties were either partially or totally flooded, though no one knows for sure the full extent of the damage or the dollar amount it will take to make the necessary repairs.

At the battered Barlow in Sebastopol, Huffman stopped to chat with John Stewart, who owns and operates Zazu with his wife, Duskie Estes; they’ve made their restaurant a destination for foodies from here and around the country. Zazu is now closed with no opening date on the calendar.

“It’s sad to see the flood damage when you could be serving delicious food,” Huffman said to Stewart, who was helping to clean up the mess. Huffman added, “We’re taking stock and we’re trying to get people help. I’m so sorry.” His words sounded heartfelt.

Stewart explains that it rained so heavily and the floodwaters rose so quickly that nothing could have prevented the damage to his restaurant, not even sandbags.

The Congressman’s day began in Guerneville, where floods are a way of life. Then he was off to Forestville, where he rendezvoused with local residents and with Sonoma County Fifth District Supervisor Lynda Hopkins. Sebastopol was up next. Flood damage was extensive. The raging waters not only hit the Barlow, but also Park Village, formerly the Mobile Home Park on Highway 12, as well as the Community Center on High Street, which wasn’t high enough to escape the raging waters.

Newly appointed Sebastopol Mayor Neysa Hinton toured the Barlow with Huffman. A third-generation Sonoma County resident, she grew up and came of age with floods.

“We need FEMA funds,” Hinton said. “We’ll have to see if we qualify.” She adds that Huffman’s first-hand experience will enable him to go back to Washington, D.C., and lobby for help.

“We want President Trump to act,” Hinton said. “We hope he’ll act.”

Recognizing the urgency, on Feb. 28, Gov. Gavin Newsom declared a state of emergency for all of Sonoma County after the days of heavy rain led to mudslides and flooding along the Russian River and in low-lying areas close to the Laguna de Santa Rosa, the county’s largest watershed and wetland and home to all sorts of flora and fauna.

Hinton has called for a community meeting in Sebastopol on March 13 at 4pm, with the location still to be determined. At the Community Center, the removable floor was saved, but floodwaters damaged the electrical system and the siding. The building is closed for social gatherings until further notice.

Huffman, a Democrat who represents the fourth Congressional district, knows all about the “national emergency” orchestrated by President Trump. Huffman has repeatedly called it a “sham national emergency.” He knows that there’s nothing sham about the emergency here. The congressman is no stranger to Sonoma County’s wild weather. In January 2017, he chose to avoid Trump’s inauguration in Washington, D.C. Instead, he trekked to Guerneville to support the Russian River cleanup efforts after the flooding at the start of the year. Some things don’t change.

Now, citizens hardest hit by the storms are worried about the cost of repairs and about weather reports that predict more rain in March. But in Forestville, Guerneville and Sebastopol citizens are relieved that Huffman saw the worst of the damage. Will his presence here today bring help from the federal government? There’s hope.—Jonah Raskin

Lookout from
the Laguna

In the four years that Kevin Munroe has been in Sonoma County, the executive director for the Laguna de Santa Rosa Foundation has seen the region’s 254-square-mile watershed fill, but never quite like last week’s flooding.

“My understanding is the last time the waters of the Laguna flooded to this level was, I think, 2005,” he says. “And my understanding is the rain we received in that 24-hour period between Tuesday and Wednesday [Feb. 26–27] was the most rain that had fallen in this area in a 24-hour period in a hundred years.”

In fact, according to National Weather Service data going back to 1902, it was the rainiest day in Santa Rosa’s history. Without the Laguna’s wetland complex, the water would have risen even higher.

“A large wetland like the Laguna can benefit downstream communities,” says Munroe. “The Laguna can grow to 30,000 acres of wetlands. Think of all that water being slowed down and held before it goes downstream.”

While the flooding in Sebastopol, Monte Rio, Forestville and Guerneville was severe in places, it would have been several times worse if it were not for the Laguna.

Munroe also points out the importance of the annual cycle of flooding for the wetlands. “It’s understandable to think of flooding as an emergency and a crisis, and of course for us living near the river it can be, but from an ecological standpoint, flooding is so important. It recharges the water table and creates habitat for wetland creatures.”

For their part, the foundation’s staff was out in kayaks the day after the heavy rains to monitor the situation in real time, posting photos and videos on social media for the public to see. “We tried to be a source of information and education,” says Munroe.

As the water levels go down, Munroe adds that there are three simple things that individuals can do throughout the year and during floods to help the wetlands, including picking up trash before it flows downstream, staying conscious about any chemicals or fertilizers being used on personal property and using native plants in gardening.

“Those native plants will do a better job of providing wildlife habitat and holding the soil than invasive exotic plants,” says Munroe. “The more native plants you have on your property or in your neighborhood, that’s going to help wildlife recover from a flood.”—Charlie Swanson

Well, it’s Restaurant Week and that can only mean one thing: stay home and eat some soup! No, no, no—it means get out there and get happy and enjoy yourself at one of the legion of top-notch dining destinations we’re blessed with here in the North Bay. We love participating in this annual civic event devoted to eating. We love eating, we love coffee and we love oysters. We don’t really love this incessant rain outside since it’s keeping us from our Restaurant Week mandate to stuff our fat face in a highly public manner, but don’t let a little atmospheric river keep you from hitting the pavement pounding down some choice North Bay eats this week. But before you do, take a spin through this selection of write-ups from our peerless crew of foodies.

Rocker Oysterfeller’s Kitchen & Saloon

“The soul of the South, coupled with the bounty of our coastline is what inspired the menu at Rocker’s,” says Brandon Guenther, co-owner of Rocker Oysterfeller’s Kitchen + Saloon in Valley Ford.

Guenther revels in serving up local, seasonal and sustainable farmed foods with a Southern-inspired twist. Five styles of Sonoma County’s own barbecued oysters, followed by an heirloom tomato salad and Rosie organic fried chicken, are on the menu, as well as a cornmeal fried oyster po’boy. Are you hungry yet?

Life in Arizona and an interest in hotel and restaurant management led to Guenther’s marriage to Shona Campbell, and also his partnership at Rocker’s, as co-owner of a Mexican restaurant in Placerville and a catering service in Oakland. The two founded Firefly Catering in Oakland in 2003 before they relocated to west Sonoma County. By 2006, they had opened Valley Ford Hotel and Rocker Oysterfeller’s in 2006, housed in a building built in 1864.

Guenther actively consults on new restaurant concepts, designs and operations. His most recent venture was in 2016, to develop a coastal flatbread concept at Gourmet au Bay wine bar in Bodega Bay. In this same year, the couple took over a 40-year-old Mexican Restaurant in downtown Placerville, remodeled the restaurant, crafted a cocktail program, installed a “from scratch” authentic Mexican menu and opened Tortilla Flats Cantina.

It’s obvious there is no shortage of motivation between Brandon and Shona, who plan to tweak the menu at Rocker’s a bit more in the coming months.

The inspiration, says Guenther, is his wife’s heritage. “Shona is from Galveston on the Gulf Coast of Texas. Our menu will begin to focus more on that particular region of the South in the coming months as it shares a lot of similarities food-wise with this part of California.”

Rocker Oysterfeller’s Kitchen + Saloon, 14415 Hwy. 1, Valley Ford. 707.876.1983. rockeroysterfellers.com.—Charlene Peters

Smokin’ Bowls

Nick Topolos’ earliest memories revolve around food. With a heritage that speaks to Greek and comfort food from the American South, he was influenced by more varied cuisines than would be expected from a suburban boy growing up in Petaluma. In addition to his heritage, he attributes his multicultural culinary background to his mother and a Chinese-American friend of the family. His diversity in cuisine is self-recognized.

“Food has often been part of my most treasured memories, whether it was at the French Laundry or a $2 street taco,” says Topolos. “What they have in common is great food that’s made from the heart.”

Topolos entered the restaurant business in September 2017, bringing with him a professional background in graphic and web design for Jackson Family Wines, Hog Island Oysters and Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, to name a few. His passion for food and drink led to a partnership in the restaurant business with two of his friends.

Smokin’ Bowls was born from a desire to reinvent the concept of comfort food with a focus on flavor and value. It was built with the intention to provide a space for those with gluten sensitivities to enjoy a variety of quality meals without the anxiety that comes with dining out. This inspiration behind this idea was based on the experiences of his gluten-intolerant business partners.

Located in the heart of Rohnert Park, Smokin’ Bowls showcases menu items such as the Rohnert Pork—slow-cooked, pulled-pork barbecue served on french fries fried in beef fat, covered with house-made cheese sauce and topped with bacon and green onions. Another popular option is the Dragon Bowl, filled with white-meat chicken with hot-sweet Asian sauce over bacon-fried rice. And then there’s the Bowl Named Sue, with white-meat chicken over creamy mashed potatoes covered with country gravy, bacon and green onions. The options for gluten-free diners are fun and seemingly endless.

Says Topolos, “My favorite moments at the restaurant are when people who are celiac come up and genuinely thank us for finally providing them a place where they have a choice.”

Smokin’ Bowls, 290 Southwest Blvd., Rohnert Park. 707.665.5265. smokinbowls.com.—C.P.

The Girl & the Fig

Does it seem like just yesterday that the Girl & the Fig opened up a little space in the little village of Glen Ellen? Maybe not, because it was darn well over two decades back. “We’re going to turn 22 this summer,” says restaurant founder Sondra Bernstein. Those many years ago, Bernstein recalls, she had just left Viansa Winery and Italian Marketplace, and thought it would be nice to open her own little cafe in a 42-seat space in Glen Ellen. “It was just a really fun, funky place, and that started everything.”

Everything includes a catering service, a food truck dubbed the “Fig Rig” and a few ventures that have opened and run their course, in addition to the original restaurant—or “the Fig,” in Bernstein’s fig world—which now occupies a more spacious, choice spot on the Sonoma Plaza, and “the cafe,” in the original digs. Confusing? Not to worry—both locations offer prix fixe dinners for Sonoma County Restaurant Week.

At the Fig Café, where the house style is what Bernstein calls “California home cooking,” $29 gets a diner a first course of roasted beet salad, mache, orange-chèvre crema and toasted pistachios; a second course of roast pork loin, farro, Brussels sprouts and bacon vinaigrette; and a dessert course of chocolate budino, vanilla Chantilly and cinnamon pecans.

Over at the original “Fig,” $39 worth of what Bernstein calls “country food with a French passion” starts with a crispy Brussels sprouts and kale salad, with shaved Vella dry Jack, herb croutons and creamy pepper vinaigrette. The main course features duck sugo, a slow-roasted duck stew, served on creamy polenta with seasonal baby vegetables. Dessert is butterscotch panna cotta, chocolate croutons, Italian meringue and candied cocoa nibs.

“We try to pick out things that tend to be crowd pleasers,” says Bernstein of the menu choices. “They are not totally luxurious, but things that people feel they’re getting a great value for.” But something that diners may not realize is that both figgy eateries offer three course, fixed price options every day at just a few dollars more—it just may take Restaurant Week to overcome diner expectations that they’re really “expensive” wine country restaurants, Bernstein muses.

An even hotter tip on value is the $12 wine pairing. The Fig has a thing for wines from France’s Rhône region, and California wines in those styles—think Viognier, Roussanne for whites, Syrah and Grenache for reds. Get three two-ounce pours of customizable wines for each course, or sample them to then splurge on a bottle. Girl & the Fig’s house brand is another good value for Sonoma Valley Syrah made by their friends at Highway 12 Winery, or Viognier made at Cline.

About that winning name? Sondra Bernstein says it was “name brainstorming with a friend under a fig tree—totally random.”

The Girl & the Fig, 110 W. Spain St., Sonoma. 707.938.3634. thegirlandthefig.com.—James Knight

Central Market

When I moved to the North Bay in early 2015, my foodie cousins couldn’t stop gushing about Central Market in Petaluma. For the next few years, the pricey menu, along with my general ignorance about fine dining, kept me away. However, when my best friend visited Sonoma County for the first time not too long ago, I knew I had to treat him to a great dinner that featured local ingredients. The plates we sampled that night—wagyu beef skewers, fried shoestring zucchini and a charcuterie plate—were delightful and worth the splurge.

Not only does Central Market offer first-time Sonoma County visitors great flavors, but the restaurant itself says much about our corner of the world. The tasteful décor pays tribute to Petaluma’s agricultural roots. You might find yourself sitting next to a painting of a cow, restored cabinet or egg basket. These additions play into chef Tony Najiola’s vision of serving up amazing dishes in a warm, welcoming, and authentic environment.

During Restaurant Week 2019, Central Market has some fantastic sounding dishes for budget-conscious gourmets. For just $39, diners can indulge in a three-course menu that boasts soup or roasted veggies for the appetizer, fennel sausage or chicken breast for the main, and butterscotch pot de crème or almond macaroons for dessert. Pro tip: have you and your dining partner order opposite courses so you can taste a little bit of everything.

But don’t feel too guilty if you end up spending more than you intended. Central Market has an extensive wine selection, including a whole page dedicated to German Rieslings. Also, you may end up ordering one—or more likely two—baskets of rustic bread straight from the restaurant’s wood-fired stone oven.

Central Market, 42 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma. 707.778.9900. centralmarketpetaluma.com.
—Thomas Broderick

Zazu Kitchen
& Farm

In 2001, what inspired Duskie Estes and John Stewart to open Zazu Kitchen & Farm was a commitment to slow cooking, sustainability and “knowing the face that feeds you.” They spread the gospel of responsible and ethical handling and purchasing of meats by sourcing direct from the farmer. The husband-and-wife team are also farmers in their own right, with three locations in Sonoma County where they raise rabbits, ducks, chickens, goats, sheep and pigs. With respect to the animal’s life, they use all parts “snout to tail” and teach their cooks at Zazu to butcher the whole animal.

Duskie has come a long way since she began cooking in her EZ-Bake oven at the age of five. She has proven to be a fierce competitor on the Food Network’s Next Iron Chef (seasons 3 and 5) and has served as a judge on Guy’s Grocery Games; her beloved Zazu Kitchen & Farm was featured on Food Network’s Diners, Drive-Ins & Dives.

John is an avid salumist who studied at the University of Iowa’s meat science program. The couple met in Seattle, both working for Tom Douglas at Palace Kitchen before moving to Sonoma County, leaving behind Duskie’s year-2000 status as City Search’s Seattle Best Chef. During her tenure at Palace Kitchen, Gourmet magazine ranked it one of the top 20 restaurants in the country. No stone was left unturned for Duskie, who also co-authored Tom Douglas’ Seattle Kitchen, which received the James Beard Award in 2001.

As one of the San Francisco Chronicle‘s Top 100 restaurants and San Francisco Magazine‘s Top 50 restaurants, Zazu continues to accumulate accolades. Adding to the list, Zazu has been recommended in the Michelin Guide from 2008 to 2018, and in 2017, Duskie and John were featured on the cover of Wine Spectator in recognition of the restaurant and their Black Piglet food truck.

“We are lucky to be in Sonoma County,” Estes says in regard to life with her husband, children and animals. “We want to represent what is awesome about this place, [especially] its proximity to source.”

Mission accomplished.

Zazu Kitchen & Farm, 6670 McKinley St. #150, Sebastopol. 707.523.4814. zazukitchen.com. —C.P.

Sonoma County Restaurant Week runs March 1–10. Visit sonomacounty.com/restaurant-week.