Classic Thrills

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Halloween comes early to North Bay stages with two productions more commonly seen around that particular holiday. Monte Rio’s Curtain Call Theatre recreates The Haunting of Hill House through Sept. 28, while Healdsburg’s Raven Players present the serial-killing comedy Arsenic and Old Lace through Sept. 29.

Many people, including Steven King, consider Shirley Jackson’s 1958 novel The Haunting of Hill House one of the finest horror novels ever written. Adapted for film twice (and currently a Netflix series), F. Andrew Leslie adapted it for the stage in 1964.

Curtain Call’s previous genre production (Dracula) suffered from a leaden script. This time, uneven performances are problematic. Casting often poses a challenge for smaller community theaters, and this West County troupe is no exception. Where they excel is with scenic design. They somehow manage to fit really interesting sets onto their tiny hall stage and also provide effective technical elements. Here, they successfully create an atmosphere of fear and suspense through lighting, sound and special effects.

It’s an earnest production—good for at least a shiver or two.

Rating (out of 5):★★½

Joseph Kesselring’s tale of the Brewster sisters and their proclivity for poisoning lonely, old gentlemen has pleased audiences for over 75 years. The popular 1944 film-adaptation, directed by Frank Capra and starring Cary Grant as nephew Mortimer Brewster, contains what most film aficionados (and Grant himself) consider the debonair star’s worst performance.

Unfortunately, Michael Hunter appears to base his interpretation of the role on that performance. The eye-popping, face-mugging approach to the character didn’t work on film, and it doesn’t work on stage.

Other performances in this Joe Gellura-directed production do work; including Rebecca Allington and Priscilla Locke as Abby and Martha Brewster; Sophia Ferar as Mortimer’s girlfriend/fiancé; and Eric Yanez as a play-writing cop on the beat. Steve Cannon is actually a touch Karloff-ian as murderous brother Jonathan Brewster (Boris Karloff originated the role) and the reliable Robert Bauer is amusing as Jonathan’s sidekick Dr. Einstein. Michael Romero is a bit young as Teddy, but his appearances bring much-needed energy to the proceedings.

With dated references and its raison d’être (Karloff) long gone, Arsenic is starting to feel old.

Rating (out of 5):★★★

‘The Haunting of Hill House’ runs through Sept. 28 at the Russian River Hall, 20347 Hwy. 116, Monte Rio. Fri–Sat, 8pm. $15–$50. 707.524.8739.russianriverhall.com

‘Arsenic and Old Lace’ runs through Sept. 29 at the Raven Performing Arts Theater, 115 North St., Healdsburg. Fri–Sat, 8pm; Sun, 2pm. $5–$28. 707.433.6335.raventheater.org.

Grape Crush

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Bacon fat. Smoked meat. Green olive.” Getting hungry? Be thirsty, instead. That’s winemaker David Ramey describing the classic aromas of wine made from Syrah, a classic grape of the Rhône.

This harvest time of year, the story seems to always be about the same grapes: First, it’s about Pinot Noir that’s been picked for sparkling wine—in July! Last, it’s about Cabernet Sauvignon still hanging on the vines—and rain is on the way! Rarely do we hear about the dozens of other grapes being picked. Recently, sommelier Chris Sawyer hosted an opportunity to get to know some of these varieties a little better at a cozy tasting and seminar at Sebastopol’s Gravenstein Grill.

Winemaker Mick Unti, of Unti Vineyards in Dry Creek Valley, says he discovered the wines of France’s Rhône Valley when he was a student. “And it was cheap!” Similarly, as a student on a tight budget in Paris back in 1979, Ramey kept an eye open for the good stuff, for cheap. “Cheap Bordeaux didn’t taste good. But the wines of the southern Rhône were great—and I could afford it!”

The varietal wines at the tasting included Syrah, some fermented along with a splash of the white grape Viognier in the style of the northern Rhône; Grenache, often blended with Syrah and Mourvedre in the southern Rhône style; and a host of other varieties blended in crisp rosés, whites and reds.

The panel echoed familiar laments about Syrah—rumored to have been tainted by the fast rise and faster fall of cheap Australian Shiraz (the same variety by a different name)—while affirming that producers still in the game are really on their game. Some 2,639 tons of Syrah were crushed in Sonoma County in 2018. Compare that to 34,841 tons of Pinot Noir.

Ramey 2015 Rodger’s Creek Petaluma Gap Syrah ($65) A sweet, spicy note, like hickory smoke, or a hint of nag champa, wafts above savory aromas of black and green olive. No marsupial fruit bomb, like some Shiraz; this is a silky, subtle, grown-up wine with grilled red fruit flavors accented with spice and leather, yet it’s not too rustic—like some Rhône—and is well suited to pairing with autumnal flavors.

Look for more Rhône-style wines at these wineries: ACORN Winery, Amapola Creek Winery, Benovia Winery, CRUX Winery, Dane Cellars, Davis Family Vineyards, Donelan Family Wines, Enkidu Winery, GlenLyon Winery, Jeff Cohn Cellars, Keller Estate, The Larsen Projekt, Lasseter Family Winery, Mengler Family Wines, Miner Family Winery, Muscardini Cellars, Odisea Wine Company, Raft Wines, Scherrer Winery, Winery Sixteen 600, Trentadue Winery and Two Shepherds.

The Profiler

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Malcolm Gladwell is a complete stranger to me. Sure, I’ve read a few of his past books—The Tipping Point, Outliers, Blink and his latest, Talking to Strangers—and listened to most of the four seasons of his podcast Revisionist History. We recently talked over the phone and had an enlightening conversation about his work. Most of the gatekeepers in the modern media world would now consider me qualified to write a profile of Malcolm Gladwell.

Gladwell himself, however, would not. Because the truth is, I don’t really know him at all.

“I’ve always had a baseline skepticism about journalistic profiles,” Gladwell says. “I always feel they’re overly ambitious. The idea that you can sit down with a stranger and come to a reckoning of who they are, and what motivates them, in a short period of time is just nonsense. It’s just not true.”

Gladwell isn’t singling out journalists here. The conceptual through-line of his new Talking to Strangers: What We Should Know About People We Don’t Know is that we’re all downright terrible at reading people we don’t know—gleaning their true feelings, motives or intentions.

“Journalists are not immune from the mistakes that all of us make, and maybe we ought to be a lot more cautious,” Gladwell says. “I think the best journalists do that. The best work, the most successful profiles, are modest in their aspirations. They aim to focus on a very specific part of the person being profiled, as opposed to a global assessment.”

Misreading
and Writing

Throughout his new book, Gladwell lays out example after example of instances where the misreading of strangers resulted in historically catastrophic consequences. The chapter on Jerry Sandusky and the sex-abuse scandal at Penn State includes a couple of examples of profiles that the writers would probably like to take back, including one from the Philadelphia Inquirer that lays it on thick about a pre-disgraced Sandusky’s “ennobling” qualities. But even here, Gladwell’s point is not to shame the writers. On the contrary, the Sandusky section of the book attempts to build a complex case for why the people around Sandusky didn’t understand what was going on at the time. He argues that the fallout from the case led to misinformed scapegoating, including of Joe Paterno.

“I think Joe Paterno was treated abominably. It was completely wrong to blame him,” Gladwell says. “Having read hundreds of pages of the court transcripts, I don’t think a plausible case could be made that Joe Paterno had any inkling whatsoever of Jerry Sandusky’s activities. He did exactly what he was supposed to do—he notified his superiors immediately and turned the matter over to them. That is what he was supposed to do. I’m quite sympathetic to some of the Penn State people who feel that case was mishandled.”

The Sandusky chapter is perhaps the toughest to analyze, and the easiest to criticize, partially because it’s a very limited discussion of a sprawling topic. Entire books could be written about who knew what, and when, in the Penn State story—and, of course, they have. The titles of these books alone make their vastly different conclusions apparent: Game Over: Jerry Sandusky, Penn State and the Culture of Silence will never be confused for The Most Hated Man in America: Jerry Sandusky and the Rush to Judgment. The latter goes even further than Gladwell, arguing that Sandusky may very well be innocent, and that the same “repressed memory therapy” that spurred the fraudulent “Satanic Panic” in the 1980s played a huge role in the case—but he takes 400 pages to explore this argument, compared to Gladwell’s 35-page chapter.

Campus Conundrum

The Penn State case is far from the only controversial topic Gladwell takes on in Talking With Strangers. In a chapter called “Transparency Case Study: The Fraternity Party,” he uses the 2015 case in which Stanford University student Brock Turner was convicted of three counts of felony sexual assault to examine the problem of alcohol abuse on college campuses.

This would be a dicey proposition by any measure: Turner’s assault of Chanel Miller (who was known at the time as “Emily Doe”; she revealed her real name earlier this month) made national headlines when Santa Clara County judge Aaron Persky ignored prosecutors’ recommendation of a six-year sentence and gave Turner six months in county jail (he ended up serving three) plus three years probation.

Perksy’s assertion that Turner’s lack of a criminal record and his upstanding character warranted a reduced sentence led to the judge’s 2018 recall. The case led to changes in California state law about the definition of rape and the mandatory minimum-sentencing for sexual assault of an unconscious or intoxicated person.

“The People vs. Brock Turner is a case about alcohol,” Gladwell writes. He then proceeds to walk a very fine line in defining what his argument is about (a salient point about a lack of education for young people concerning the dangers of blackout drinking) and what it is not (a denial of the seriousness of Turner’s crime).

Gladwell knows that with both the Sandusky and Turner cases, he’s venturing into territory that’s difficult to write—but also difficult to read.

“I have, after 30 years, an enormous amount of faith in my readers. I know who my readers are, and I know my readers read things carefully. Those chapters both require careful reading,” he says. “I am not blaming the victim in the Brock Turner case. I am making an argument about how we prevent these kinds of things in the future. That’s a subtle point, but I think people who listen to my podcast or read my books are totally fine with subtle points.”

Indeed, fans of Revisionist History will be familiar with other times Gladwell took on topics other writers might consider taboo; for instance, the Brown v. Board of Education episode “Miss Buchanan’s Period Of Adjustment” (possibly the best episode he’s produced), in which he attempted to lay out the problems black teachers faced in the wake of the landmark desegregation ruling, without undermining the importance of the decision itself.

Gladwell says he’s not so much drawn to controversial topics as he feels he should be taking them on at this point in his career.

“I would say that I feel I have an obligation to write about those kinds of things because I can. I’m now in a position—having been a journalist for a long time, and having established a reputation for myself and having a readership—to have the freedom to write about those things. I can take the blow,” he says.

“Sure, people will get upset, but it’s fine. I mean, I can handle that. A 25-year-old journalist starting out would be taking a real risk for their career if they were to approach some of these topics. I think when you’re an established journalist, you have an obligation to go where others can’t or don’t want to.”

‘History’ Lessons

The material Gladwell takes on in Talking to Strangers is not the only parallel to his podcast: The whole book is laid out like an episode of Revisionist History, or perhaps a whole season packed into one book. It starts out with one character—Sandra Bland, an African-American woman from Chicago who was the victim of a bizarre and frankly terrifying traffic stop by a white cop in Houston in 2015—and then threads through other stories before returning to Bland’s story and a fierce indictment of the policing system responsible for it. This is a classic setup for a Revisionist History episode—the aforementioned Brown v. Board of Education episode employed the same structure. And Talking to Strangers is so thoroughly character-driven that it, too, seems the result of a lesson Gladwell learned doing the podcast. Though Revisionist History is perhaps most famous for episodes like 2016’s “Blame Game,” which smashed popular misconceptions about the “unintended acceleration” recalls of Toyota vehicles in 2009, 2010
and 2011, I’ve always found the
best episodes to be the ones
solidly built around characters first, and Gladwell’s trademark data-analysis second.

The author says it’s no accident his latest book is so reminiscent of the podcast, and that Revisionist History has had a “profound impact” on the way he writes books.

“The podcast has been the dominant thing in my life now for four years,” Gladwell says, “and it’s the thing I’m most excited about. It’s been a way to kind of—not re-invent, that’s too strong a word, but learn a whole new skill, and think about storytelling in a whole new way. It absolutely influenced Talking to Strangers.”

The most definitive sign of that influence is the fact that instead of the traditional audiobook, in which he reads the text, he actually created—well, basically a podcast. It includes the audio from his interviews for the book, as well as archival tape that he discusses in the book, and music. And he’s more excited about it than the print version.

“It’s like a six-hour episode of Revisionist History,” he says. “This is an emotional book, and I feel like in some ways the audio book is better than the print book, because you get more. You hear Sandra Bland at the beginning talking about ‘my beautiful kings and queens,’ and she stays with you. And at the end, the whole thing, about the cop and the deposition, [State Trooper Brian] Encinia explaining himself, I have that tape. So you hear him, and it becomes really, really visceral and real.

“And then you’re hearing this Janelle Monae song; she wrote a song about all the police shootings where she names all the victims. So it’s a whole overwhelming experience when you listen to it. I really encourage people to experience the book that way.”

‘Blink’ Again

Gladwell cites a number of examples in his new book about how misplaced confidence in our ability to read other people resulted in disastrous consequences. He discusses Neville Chamberlain’s famous failure to judge Adolf Hitler’s intentions, leading him to foolishly return from Munich waving a piece of paper Hitler had signed, and promising “peace in our time.” He examines how the CIA went for years believing they had faithful spies throughout Cuba, only to discover that every single one of them was a double agent working for Fidel Castro. He explains how truly astonishing the con job Bernie Madoff pulled on his victims really was—all because he managed to create a false aura of sincerity and good intentions. On the flipside, in one of the best chapters for explaining our inability to read the people around us, Gladwell deconstructs how Amanda Knox was convicted of murder not because she was guilty, but because she unintentionally acted guilty.

If all of this talk about perception and the length of time it takes to accurately parse information sounds a lot like Gladwell’s 2005 book Blink, that’s because it is. In fact, Talking to Strangers came out of Gladwell’s belief that Blink, a book about snap judgement, had been widely misunderstood and misinterpreted in the media.

Blink was a fascinating and frustrating experience for me,” he says. “Because Blink was really a cautionary tale about our first impressions. It was a story that began with all the ways they work, and then the latter half of the book was about all the ways that we’re misled by our intuition. That didn’t quite come across.

“So this book first of all zeroes in on a particular kind of first impression, which is the relationship with a stranger. But I really wanted to squarely address what can go wrong, and the consequences of that—just as David and Goliath grew out of Outliers, this book grows out of Blink. With a lot of my books, I write it once, then I sit with it, then I come back and tackle the issue again.”

Ultimately, Talking to Strangers looks at the problem of how we misunderstand strangers from both a macro and micro perspective. It suggests the need for reform in our institutions— policing, the justice system and military-intelligence interrogation policies (the section on the biological reasons for the ineffectiveness of torture is a stunner)—and argues that action is needed to bring the systems of society in line with how our brains really work. But on another, individual level, it also suggests that the “default to truth” principle most of us use in everyday dealings with each other isn’t such a bad thing—even if it can be wrong. The alternative, he suggests, can be much worse.

“Let’s make sure that our institutions and practices conform to who we are,” says Gladwell. “But let’s accept ourselves for who we are, and stop pretending otherwise. We should stop beating ourselves up over our fundamental tendency to trust each other, and instead intelligently adapt to it.”

Hemp It Up

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More marijuana is grown in California than anywhere else in the U.S., but 10 states, including Colorado, Kentucky and Oregon, leave California in the dust when it comes to the cultivation of hemp. Still, if Santa Rosa Junior College (SRJC) has a say in the matter, California will emerge as a leading producer, especially since the federal government legalized hemp in the 2018 Farm Bill.

This summer, the SRJC Agriculture Department announced the launch of a hemp program at Shone Farm on the outskirts of Forestville, where farmers still grow marijuana illegally in the woods.

The SRJC program is the only one in the North Bay and the state of California as a whole.

When Sonoma County placed a moratorium on hemp last year, supervisors gave SRJC an exemption. Starting in 2020, students at the college will be able to major in hemp, though nearly an acre is already in the ground and growing quickly, outdoors in direct sunlight and in rich composted soil.

The plants are mostly from female clones, though some are from seeds. Students are already tending the crop and learning about it. Local media have emphasized the cash value of the Shone Farm hemp, but Benjamin Goldstein, the dean of agriculture, says the real value is the information it will yield, not any cash in hand. “The real payoff is student interest,” he says.

On a hot September morning, Goldstein led a tour of the experimental crop, which grows between tall rows of corn. The corn serves as a windbreak and a visual shield against thieves. A sign in the field reads, “SRJC Industrial Hemp Research Project: Not for human consumption. No THC. No street value.” Goldstein reminds those who don’t remember or who have never learned, that hemp and marijuana belong to the same genus and species: cannabis sativa.

The hemp plant—which scientists and horticulturists designate as “cannabis sativa (L)”—and the marijuana plant look, feel and smell the same. The only difference is the THC. To be considered hemp, the plant must contain less than 0.3 percent THC. Only a lab test can tell the difference between the two. “We want to show that hemp can help diversify crops on a farm or dairy,” Goldstein says. “As Luther Burbank pointed out—we can grow everything and anything here, from citrus and apples to potatoes, olives and now hemp.”

Sonoma Agricultural Commissioner Tony Linegar is also pro-hemp and eager for it, and marijuana, to be grown legally. Still, Linegar sees potential problems. “Some farmers might use hemp as a cover to grow marijuana illegally,” he says. “Others, who are against marijuana, might weaponize male hemp plants so that they go to seed and pollinate female marijuana flowers and decrease their market value.”

Forestville grower Joe Munson, better known as “Oaky Joe,” takes a characteristically arch view of the nearby hemp farm. “I think the government is illegal,” he says. A medical marijuana provider for more than 20 years—with a history of compassionate care for HIV/AIDS patients—Munson takes a critical view of all rules, regulations, taxes, government inspectors and anything that smacks of officialdom.

But a little bit of law enforcement will go a long way towards destigmatizing whatever stigma remains around hemp, says Linegar—he wants strict enforcement to prevent fraud and says he’s prepared to stay in office beyond the end of December, when he’s slated to retire, to see the Shone Farm through to harvest.

“I think of the hemp project as my swan song,” he says. “I want to see it through.” For Goldstein, who became SRJC’s dean of agriculture in 2017, this year’s hemp crop marks the beginning of a beautiful relationship. “Our program has helped to bring hemp farmers out of the woods,” he says. “We have the potential to recruit research partners from all over California.”

At the Oct. 12 annual Fall Festival in Forestville, Goldstein and others will talk to the public about the hemp project. Last July, the California Department of Food and Agriculture (CDFA) issued guidelines for municipalities interested in pursuing industrial hemp and noted that municipalities around the state, including Sonoma, Napa and Marin, all have local laws of their own regulating industrial hemp production. Neither Marin nor Napa have embarked on industrial hemp projects of their own.

IOLERO Review

The defanging of Sonoma County’s Independent Office of Law Enforcement Review and Outreach continues apace. Last week the county police-accountability’s new director, Karlene Navarro, presented the Sonoma County Supervisors with a plan to gut her office and severely curtail its scope and mission. Navarro took over the post from Jerry Threet, who left at the end of last year.

As public documents from the county indicate, Threet was viewed by the Sonoma County Sheriff’s Office as being biased against police and policing in his role as the county’s first IOLERO director. Navarro, whose husband is a former prosecutor in District Attorney Jill Ravitch’s office, does not appear to have the same issue when it comes to her biases. She was supported by Sheriff Mark Essick and approved unanimously by the supervisors. On Sept. 10 she presented a raft of proposals to the board that left police-accountability activists breathless. Navarro said the supervisors should move to cut the number of persons on the Community Advisory Committee by half and suggested that the CAC no longer have input on policy recommendations made to IOLERO. She also suggested a cut in the number of CAC meetings. Activists in attendance at the meeting last week noted that Navarro’s recommendations were made without any public meetings—and that the they were foisted on the community just a few days before the scheduled vote.

Thanks to the efforts of Supervisor Lynda Hopkins, the vote was postponed to another day. Hopkins’ 5th District includes the area where Andy Lopez was shot. The 2013 shooting of Lopez by an SCSO deputy gave rise to the creation of the CAC and the IOLERO. Its mission is to track law enforcement investigations and public complaints, and, according to the ordinance that created IOLERO, would “include community education and outreach,” and “conveying feedback from the community on law enforcement issues,” among other tasks.

How will the IOLERO mission continue under Navarro? It remains to be seen, says longtime police-accountability activist Susan Lamont. “We and the supervisors should be seeking the answers to those questions,” she says. The board will take up the Navarro recommendations at a future meeting.

Park-Land Protection

Election Day is coming right up, with its usual array of off-year measures and local ballot initiatives. At issue this year is a big vote in Rohnert Park to protect the town’s open space against the pernicious influence of suburban sprawl.

Rohnert Park voters will cast ballots on Measure B this Nov. 5, a measure that attempts to protect the town’s so-called urban-growth boundary. The Greenbelt Alliance is holding a trio of teach-ins on the measure in advance of election day, on Sept. 25, Oct. 6 and Oct. 10 (see www.greenbelt/rohnert-park.org for more info).

Rohnert Park’s urban-growth boundary was created in 2000 when 71 percent of voters there voted to support limits on growth in the city’s perimeter areas. “The UGB is a line around the city that contains development,” says Greenbelt Alliance’s Teri Shore in a statement. “It has safeguarded Rohnert Park for 20 years and needs to be renewed by the voters to avoid a lapse in protection.”

Dodd on Fire

As fire-safety inspections continue around the region, North Bay State Sen. Bill Dodd has punched out a trio of wildfire safety bills that are expected to get the signature from Gov. Gavin Newsom.

“The height of fire season is approaching,” says Dodd, “which underscores the need for immediate action. We can’t sit back and watch our state burn.”

Indeed we can’t. Dodd’s three bills passed the legislature last week. His SB 190 is pegged at vegetation buffer zones and is particularly keyed in on “defensible space,” a newish buzz-phrase that basically means, keep your property free and clear of debris and stuff that can burn. Dodd notes that homes that maintain 100 feet of defensible space are eight times more likely to survive a fire “than homes without a properly maintained buffer.” SB 109’s goal is to enhance awareness and compliance with vegetation removal. Dodd’s SB 209 is a more “meta” sort of legislative initiative, seeking to create a Wildfire Forecast and Threat Intelligence Integration Center to serve as the state’s “central hub for wildfire forecasting,” with capabilities that include weather forecasting and threat assessment abilities.

Finally, SB 247 obliquely targets PG&E in its crosshairs over the energy provider’s inadequate vegetation-removal policies, which were held to be the culprit in numerous of the 2017–2018 California wildfires. That bill would create a Wildfire Safety Division to conduct audits of vegetation-clearing around utility lines, and end the longstanding practice of self-auditing undertaken by utilities and their contractors.

Is Jared Huffman The Antichrist?

Possibly. But he’s definitely not running for President of the United States in 2020. The North Bay congressman was the recent subject of a feature in the Epoch Times that called Huffman out for his non-belief in God—Huffman’s a humanist and agnostic—and in doing so, ventured that he was one of the numerous Dems to throw his hat into the 2020 ring. Huffman took to Facebook to brush back the errant reporting (since corrected online) and to take a shot at the Trump-supporting Epoch Times for pandering in end-times prognostication and for being supported by a cult.

The sect indicated by Huffman is the Fulang Gong of China, a persecuted minority of anti-Communists, whose adherents often participate in Qi Gong healing practices and movement. The Qi Gong practice is popular regionally and one of its teachers is a woman named Vivienne Verdon-Roe. Before she was a Qi Gong teacher, Verdon Roe was a documentary filmmaker who won an Academy Award in 1986 for a film called Women for America, for the World. Her short documentary took on the spectre of nuclear war, speaking of end-times fixations. Huffman, who founded the Congressional Freethought Caucus, has been in the news a few times recently over his agnosticism. Following his Epoch Times moment, he was subsequently interviewed by the Freethought Matters publication and was asked who his favorite historical “freethinkers” were. According to a social media post from the congressman, he rattled off a few names: Kurt Vonnegut, Thomas Paine—and, praise the Lord!—Jesus Christ himself.

Bear Necessities

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In May, in a nondescript warehouse tucked away in Rohnert Park, James Mahon emerges from the back of the shop clutching two “silver bullets.” Not the Coors Light kind.

They’re two shiny, unlabeled aluminum cans of pilsner-style beer, identically made to brewer Andy Hooper’s exacting specifications at Seismic Brewing Co. in Santa Rosa. The only difference, says Mahon, is the base malt Hooper used.

Mahon cracks the cans.

Can No. 1 is made with barley malted in a light-tasting, pilsner style, by a major supplier, thousands of miles away. It’s crisp, light and what else? Pilsner-y.

Can No. 2 is made with California-grown barley, which Mahon malted right here. It’s light and it’s crisp, but there’s more. There’s a more rich, golden color—for a pils—and more flavor, too. It’s almost like the grain is showing off the warmth of the California sun under which it grew.

The base malt Grizzly provides won’t compete on price with a product that’s malted on a bigger scale and shipped from thousands of miles away, Mahon allows. But he thinks it’s more than competitive on flavor, and local appeal. “I think there’s a great opportunity for breweries to differentiate themselves,” says Mahon.

The team at Seismic were convinced by the trial run they did with Grizzly Malt’s product. Today their Magnetic Midnight black lager is made with 100 percent Grizzly malt.

Mahon thinks that beer drinkers, too, will be as interested in tasting the difference as he is. “For me, this is an extension of my personality,” says Mahon. “I like to geek out on stuff.”

Now it’s September, and farmer Tristan Benson is on hand to demonstrate just how much grain can, or can’t, be grown in the North Coast.

Benson reaches into a bag of barley, one of a half-dozen or so similar bags containing freshly harvested barley and wheat grown in Petaluma, that he’s delivered to Grizzly for processing.

Mahon is working with several local farmers to grow barley and he’s dialing-in a malting process five years in the making. Mahon explored opening a craft brewery but now chuckles that he suspected, five years ago, that there were already too many craft breweries. Instead, he contacted agriculture specialists at UC Davis and began collaborating on test plots of new strains of barley. These were then bred for suitability to California and for flavor in brewing, instead of only for the old standards of yield and disease resistance.

Mahon ordered a malting vessel that would allow him to offer malts caramelized at higher temperatures. It took a while to get there. Meanwhile, he secured a pair of giant maple-syrup vats that a failed business had repurposed for malting. Lifting the hood of a vat, he explains that the process takes a week, and a lot can go wrong. When it goes right, heated air is sent through the bed of grains that rests on a screen inside.

A steady supply of Sonoma-grown barley may be in the offing, though many farmers are set in their ways about grain. Mahon describes how one seventh-generation rancher who’s tinkering with craft crops like hops and barley, explained his willingness to experiment because, “I’m the younger guy around here.”

Benson, another younger guy in the grain business, says the North Bay was a major grain producer a hundred years ago, one reason the region’s famed poultry and dairy operations set up here. California once grew two million acres of barley, according to Benson, much of it shipped to breweries in the Midwest.

“Now, we’re down to this,” says Benson, shrugging at the resistance among craft brewers to even believe it’s possible.

Nouveau Name

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North Bay native and vocalist Stella Heath specializes in evoking bygone eras of music, both as titular singer of the Billie Holiday Project and as bandleader for long-running Gypsy-jazz group French Oak, who are about to formally change their name to Bandjango Collectif upon the release of their new album by the same name.

French Oak got its start in 2014, when Heath moved back to her hometown of Petaluma after residing in New York for a decade. “I contacted (guitarist) Gabriel Pirard to start a jazz band,” says Heath. “I actually had the idea to name the band Bandjango in the beginning, but we wanted to target wineries and venues like that so we thought of French Oak. Now we’ve grown out of that and want to go back to the original I liked.”

After releasing a debut album in 2016 as a trio, French Oak also grew in size, to include Heath, Pirard and James Inciardi on tenor, baritone and soprano saxophone; Skyler Stover on standup bass; and Jamie Foster on drums and percussion. After recording their sophomore album—Bandjango Collectif—over the course of the last year, the group decided the album’s release would be the best time to transition to the new band name. This month, the group plays their final shows as French Oak on Sept. 20 at Redwood Café in Cotati and on Sept. 27 at Red Poppy Art House in San Francisco, before Bandjango Collectif makes its official debut on Oct. 2 at Blue Note Jazz Club in Napa.

While the name is changing, the music remains the same, French chanteuse–inspired sound.

“I’ve loved Edith Piaf ever since I was a kid,” Heath says. “I also loved Louis Armstrong, and as I started to discover jazz I was introduced to this whole genre of Gypsy-jazz made famous by Django Reinhardt.”

While Reinhardt’s French-jazz guitar inspired the band’s sound, Heath notes they’ve added more styles to incorporate Spanish and American jazz. International pop tunes are also mixed into the group’s repertoire, offering classic and contemporary styles of music in their live shows. “I want everybody to be welcome at our shows,” says Heath. “It’s a very comfortable vibe and a celebratory atmosphere.”

French Oak (soon to be re-named Bandjango Collectif) plays Friday, Sept. 20, at Redwood Cafe, 8240 Old Redwood Hwy, Cotati. 8pm. $10. 707.795.7868.

Let It Flow

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A funny thing happened on the way from the wine tasting.

After swirling and spitting some of Sonoma County’s finest wines at this year’s Taste of Sonoma event at the Green Music Center, the heat of the day set in and I stumbled into the expanded beer garden. Did I want a pale ale? The outgoing staff at the Seismic Brewing Company booth wanted to know. That hefty pour of a complex (but low-alcohol) and refreshing Namazu pale ale, which I hardly swirled and certainly did not spit, was among the few drinks that memorably brightened up the afternoon.

When the Seismic project was announced, the story was all about the novelty of Christopher Jackson, son of North Coast wine icon Jess Jackson, founding a craft brewery. When the operation got up and running, the story was about their sustainable practices—lowering water use and using geyser-based energy, for example. So what’s the story, now that beer is flowing in the taproom? Well, the beer.

But it isn’t just about Chris Jackson’s beer. “I’m not going to win any major competitions with my home brewing,” says Jackson, laughing off his attempts. Instead, he points to the contributions of his team, which includes brewer Andy Hooper, who came from Anderson Valley Brewing Co., and taproom manager Alfie Turnshek, formerly of Brewsters Beer Garden in Petaluma.

“I view myself as a facilitator,” Jackson explains. “With Alfie at the taproom and Andy in the brewery, what I did was set the standards, and got their buy-in. But when it comes to the creative execution of the brewery—that’s them.”

The taproom, anchoring a corner of the Barlow market district in Sebastopol, has style. It’s clean, contemporary and emphasizes natural wood tones. The few decor standouts include a glowing Seismic logo, an enigmatic sketch of Clint Eastwood as Dirty Harry and a curvaceous nook.

The beer also has style, although what style is difficult to pin down. Is it a Germanic take on West Coast craft-brew style? Their Shattercone IPA stands out partly for its restrained structure and use of Hallertau Blanc hops.

“There is merit to the German provincial styles of beer,” Jackson allows. “It’s fortunate that Andy and I had a similar view of what genre we wanted to be in, and that was about balance and execution, not extremes of style.”

Seismic’s core lineup includes Alluvium pilsner, Megathrust IPA and Liquifaction kölsch-style ale. The Germanic theme continues with a Doppelbock and a refreshing gose on tap.

And when it’s time, yet again, for evening winter warmers, a bourbon barrel–aged porter awaits.

Seismic Brewing Taproom, 6700 Sebastopol Ave., Sebastopol. Open daily, 11:30am–9pm; to 10pm Friday–Saturday. 707.544.5996.

Craft Cartoons

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Ken Weaver knows a thing or two about craft beer in the North Bay, as well he should; he wrote the book on it in 2012. Weaver’s The Northern California Craft Beer Guide featured his exhaustive reporting paired with his wife-and-photographer Anneliese Schmidt’s images.

Since writing the definitive who’s who of the region’s breweries and crafters putting beer on the map in wine country, Weaver keeps up with the craft beer scene these days in a new way, producing a webcomic, Massive Potions, each week for over a year, in which Weaver’s fictional post-apocalyptic brewery features a cartoon cat and other denizens who satirize craft beer clichés and poke fun at industry trends, like this summer’s hard seltzer craze.

“I got into beer more as a consumer at least a dozen years ago,” says Weaver, who earned a master’s degree in physics at Cornell University and an MFA in creative writing from the University of Maryland. “I had gotten involved in RateBeer.com back in DC, and that gave me the lay of the land. I got involved in the craft beer scene for fun, then I was writing on the side and it all came together.”

Weaver moved out to the North Bay with his wife, who had family in Marin, and the couple settled in Petaluma. In hindsight, Weaver says his Northern California Craft Beer Guide came about randomly after years of beer blogging and a timely conversation with publisher Chris Gruener of Petaluma-based Cameron + Company.

“That was a great opportunity for my wife and I both to settle into the scene,” says Weaver. “As someone new to Northern California, it was a great way to explore and become immersed in what was going on out here.”

In the intervening years, the craft beer scene in Sonoma, Napa and Marin County continued to expand. There is increasing competition to have the latest and greatest available on tap and to go, and long-running craft brewery staples like Lagunitas Brewing Company and HopMonk Tavern are now in company and competing with new breweries, taprooms and locations such as 3 Disciples Brewing, who host their Oktoberfest on Saturday, Sept. 21, in downtown Santa Rosa, and HenHouse Brewing, who’s inaugural Freshtival Beer Festival commences on Oct. 12 in Rohnert Park.

“The thought of re-doing the Beer Guide at this point feels overwhelming,” says Weaver. “There’s breweries everywhere, it’s a much more matured and developed scene; and this was a relatively mature and developed scene seven years ago. It’s gotten even more so.”

Weaver also says that the continued development of the local scene means that breweries are becoming more localized and specialized to their neighborhood. “They’re serving their local geographic area, their footprint is modest and they are working on close relationships that are much more sustainable long-term,” he says. “The growth is stable, but there’s more competition and people are having to settle for smaller niches than they originally expected.”

While another Beer Guide isn’t in the works, Weaver has been plenty busy keeping his eye on the scene and offering his takes via Massive Potions.

“I’d been kicking this concept around for a while,” says Weaver of the webcomic. “I had been trying to find my feet going down the path of writing fiction.”

The concept of and characters in Massive Potions went through several literary forms, from novel to graphic novel to four-panel webcomic once Weaver started drawing the characters on his digital device. “It felt like the right gear for what I was doing,” he says. “Adding the graphic component, a light switch flicked on, it made sense. I could get a feel for this world.”

The two focal figures of Massive Potions, the big-haired Zo and the glasses-wearing cat Whalefeather, are the heart of the brewing operation. They hang out with characters like the brewery’s easy-going and only customer Pete, the bartending cow Dennis and other interlopers like the recently arrived White Claw, who expels the virtues of hard seltzer upon the IPA enthusiasts to little avail.

Though there are blueprints for a book coming in the next year, the best way to read Massive Potions is to find the series online.

“It’s fun making fun of these things, but the nice thing about the comic is that it’s not just one voice,” he says. “Having these characters gives me the opportunity to have different opinions, different angles and concepts; it’s more fun to explore how different people are thinking about this stuff.”

massivepotions.com.

Old Reliable

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I’ve never understood the concept of “guilty pleasure.” It’s a way of expressing one’s tastes while apologizing for them. Taste is subjective—so why let other people make you feel bad about yours? If your idea of Fine Art is a black-light poster, embrace it! If you like celebrity gossip, own it! If your favorite song is “Don’t Stop Believing,” don’t apologize for it!

There’s no guilt involved when I say I like Budweiser. No hipster irony, either—for me, Bud isn’t a fermented proxy for a vintage Gulf gas station jacket. When I say I like Bud, it’s because I like Bud.

I know Budweiser is a factory product, and the choice of lunkheads everywhere. Is Bud as good as my favorite beer? Of course not—it’s my everyday beer, one I vastly prefer over most craft beers. I tend to dislike bitter flavors, so most hoppy craft beers are off limits for me.

Moreover, I prefer to buy beer from grown-ups. When I see craft beers with cringeworthy names like Hoptical Illusion and with cartoon-like label designs, it feels like kids playing dress-up. Say what you want about Bud, its brand presentation remains classic, timeless and non-generational.

Beer should be for everyone. So many craft beers seem like they’re trying to weed out the squares and the olds. Imagine your father shopping for beer and seeing Hoptimus Prime or Citra Ass Down. Even if he got the joke, he might reasonably conclude they were intended for someone else.

Beer should unite, not divide. I like Bud the same way I like the Rolling Stones, or baseball, or a burger with fries—it makes me feel connected to the rest of America. In this era of fragmented subcultures, it’s nice to feel like I’m going wide instead of narrow.

Also: Most stores and bars carry it, it’s reasonably priced, it goes down easy and the 5.0 percent ABV gives just the right buzz. So yeah, I like Bud. I’m drinking one right now, in fact. Unapologetically? Guilty as charged.

Paul Lukas is a staff writer at Sports Illustrated. He also runs the Uni Watch Blog, among lots of other projects. We welcome your contribution. To have your topical essay of 350 words considered for publication, write op*****@******an.com.

Polio Grounds

Abraham Entin expounds about the pernicious pharmaceutical industry, but his real goal is to defend the anti-vaxxers (Letters, Sept. 11). Big Pharma, which I despise, makes virtually nothing on vaccines. “Of course vaccines work in the short run.” Abe old chap, you know any polio victims? I did. My mother contracted polio in 1954 in a hospital giving birth to my little sis. She survived, wearing a leg brace and paralyzed on one side, until she passed due to post-polio complications at age 65. Tell ME about side effects. You don’t want to vaccinate your kids? Fine—but keep them away from my kids.

Occidental

Russia Hoax

The article by Chris Rooney (“Divisive Data,” Sept. 11) suggested that Russia, through “RT America,” was trying to sow division in the U.S. by casting doubts about the safety of 5G technology. Besides getting several paragraphs in the text, you chose to add a subtitle that featured “reports of health risks associated with 5G linked to Russians.”

It may just be my aging memory, but in my five years or so of following RT on a more-than-daily basis I cannot recall ever reading a negative article about 5G. In fact, since the U.S. has been trying to ban sales of Huawei’s 5G technology internationally, and given Russia’s general support of all things Chinese, RT tends to have articles slanted in favor of 5G.

I use the RT android app on my cell phone and look at it several times a day, finding it a refreshing antidote to the spin of sites such as The Guardian, NPR and Democracy Now. As far as their coverage of the U.S. goes, they seem to favor Republicans more than Democrats, I think not because of a plan to sow dissent but because they tend to favor what they think of as

“traditional Western values.” I sometimes find that annoying, but, since my news otherwise comes from Democracy Now and other KPFA programs, as well as NPR and Bill Maher, I like to hear the “other side” also, and I very much enjoy their great coverage of international news, which gets short shrift in most American news.

Guerneville

I was amused by the Chris Rooney article on 5G. He correctly cites that the 10,000-plus studies, including the gold-standard, $30 million, tax-dollar-funded NTP study done recently, apparently aren’t good enough in the eyes of the FDA, FCC or many courts, though it’s curious that the richest cities like Hillsborough, Belvedere, Los Altos, etc., seem to be able to sidestep Uncle Sham’s plans for more and more wireless coverage. Apparently, we’re in a race with the Chinese. . . .

There are over 100 cell-tower sites under contract for installation in Santa Rosa. Want to do something about having a cell phone tower planted in front of your house, or your child’s school? Contact your lawmakers before it’s too late. Sonoma County for Responsible Technology has a list of current and future cell tower installations. https://www.facebook.com/groups/431787887408649/

Via Bohemian.com

Write to us at le*****@******an.com.

Classic Thrills

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Old Reliable

I've never understood the concept of "guilty pleasure." It's a way of expressing one's tastes while apologizing for them. Taste is subjective—so why let other people make you feel bad about yours? If your idea of Fine Art is a black-light poster, embrace it! If you like celebrity gossip, own it! If your favorite song is "Don't Stop Believing,"...

Polio Grounds

Abraham Entin expounds about the pernicious pharmaceutical industry, but his real goal is to defend the anti-vaxxers (Letters, Sept. 11). Big Pharma, which I despise, makes virtually nothing on vaccines. "Of course vaccines work in the short run." Abe old chap, you know any polio victims? I did. My mother contracted polio in 1954 in a hospital giving birth...
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