Personal Best

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September 20-26, 2006

Crush time is here, and the grapes hang heavy in the Indian summer sun. Such a sight makes wannabe vintners of many dreamers. How nice it would be, they sigh, to have a winery of one’s own, tucked somewhere far back in the quiet oak-studded hills of Napa or Sonoma.

But such idyllic dreams can quickly turn to vinegar when reality and logistics collide. One must, of course, harvest the fruit, crush the grapes, fill the vats, clear the hoses of muck, understand nuances in temperature and generally have a grasp of chemistry, the science of taste and old-fashioned farm methods.

Perhaps grapes are best left to the growers and wine to the makers, but the lazy layperson can still craft his or her very own vintage, as several wineries in the North Bay produce custom wines.

In this process, clients choose varying degrees of physical involvement, from little more than a few telephone calls to actually joining in the fall harvest, the crush and all the dirty, sticky work that follows. Most significantly, however, the client may precisely direct the winemakers in what grapes will be used and by what proportions the different blends will be mixed before bottling.

Judd’s Hill MicroCrush, located just north of Napa, has produced custom wines since 1992. It’s a two-generation family business with Judd, owner Art Finkelstein’s son, acting as winemaker. In addition to their own 3,000 annual case winery, Judd’s Hill, the family has added the last element of the name, “MicroCrush,” indicating their specialization in very small and personal batches of wine made exactly to the specifications of others.

“Other wineries custom crush,” says Art Finkelstein, “but many have a minimum requirement of several tons. We don’t like to do more than eight tons. We save that for the big guys and they send the small guys to us. It’s a very nice arrangement.”

Judd’s Hill will process as little as a half ton of grapes, which is one barrel’s worth, or 24 cases of wine totaling 288 bottles. By a winemaker’s standards, a half ton of grapes is a paltry bundle. Yet even for the dinkiest batches, the Finkelsteins don’t let their guard down.

“When you make it with us, you’re guaranteed success. We don’t mess up. We’ve got three winemakers here with 40 years of experience,” Finkelstein assures.

Judd’s Hill MicroCrush grows 12 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon on the hillside that ascends eastward from St. Helena, and the winery maintains a priority in producing its own various wines each year. Its mainstay, however, is custom wines, of which the family annually generates 7,000 to 9,000 cases–enough to prompt the opening of a new winery last year. The grapes for these custom vintages vary in origin. Some clients have their own vineyards, just no winery, so they truck their fruit over to Judd’s Hill and leave the winemaking to the experts. Others–city slickers, perhaps–have no grapes at all, and for these Judd’s Hill MicroCrush provides the grapes, as the winery works with many local growers and has access to several varietals of Napa’s finest clusters.

“We’ve also got an inventory of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc stored in barrels, and we can complement someone’s blend with these wines if they like,” Finkelstein says.

Finkelstein stresses that he does not rent his facility out to grape-holders who want to make their own wine, but clients are welcome to participate in the process. Enthusiastic individuals sometimes help with the picking, the crushing, stirring the vats and cleaning the equipment.

“But mainly people just come in and taste their wine’s progress, see that it’s a living thing that mellows out over time.”

Certainly, many wines are cheaper than a custom blend from Judd’s Hill MicroCrush. However, here you’re paying not only for grapes and labor, but also for a very personal attention to exactly what you want in several hundred bottles of wine. The price, says Finkelstein–after crushing, fermenting, bottling and labeling–arrives at about $275 per case.

Judd’s Hill MicroCrush works seasonally, and now is the time. If you want to get purple and sticky, go for it–and forget about that vineyard. It’s a lot of trouble, and it’s probably just a pipe dream anyway.

Judd’s Hill MicroCrush, 2332 Silverado Trail, Napa. For details, call 866.438.5833 or go to www.nvcmc.com.

Chateau Felice Winery in Healdsburg also offers custom wines. It’s a different sort of business, though. First, the winery grows all the grapes and provides its clients with the unblended wines, says winemaker Genevieve Llerena. There are no strange pickup trucks from the Sacramento delta pulling up out front with two tons of alien grapes–not here at the prim and pretty Chateau Felice. Second, one must be a member of the wine club to partake, but it’s not a big commitment to join.

Clients may assist in the harvest and the crush if they like, but Llerena says that the primary service at Chateau Felice is simply the tutored tasting of the estate reds–Cab, Merlot and Zinfandel–and the subsequent blending to each client’s fancies and desires.

“We’re always right there assisting. I really want to show them that blending is one of the main parts of winemaking and that it has a strong effect on the finish. The wines are the same ones we use for our own label, so I already know how they mix. I’ll suggest a good starting point, then ask if they want fruity or spicy wine, and we fine-tune it from there. So far, no one has ever ordered exactly the same wine as another person.”

The blended wines age in barrels down in the estate cellar, and when clients grow so thirsty they can no longer bear it, they call in to have the wine bottled and make arrangements for pickup or delivery.

“For the winemaking, it’s $100 to sit down and blend with us and it comes out in the end to about $180 per case when the wine’s ready to take home,” says Llerena. The cost usually ends up at about $14 per bottle.

Chateau Felice Winery, 10603 Chalk Hill Road, Healdsburg; tasting room, 223 Center St., Healdsburg (down the street from Barn Diva). 707.431.9010. www.chateaufelice.com.

The Napa Wine Company on Highway 29 in Oakville crushes grapes and ferments the wine for commercial clients. Such labels as Bryant Family Vineyards, Colgin, Staglin and Pahlmeyer have come out of the vats here, and emerging winemakers are welcomed. The Napa Wine Company provides all the facilities–and even some of the grapes–for producing large quantities of wine, but clients must have their own winemaker and show potential and interest in building a long-term relationship with the company.

Napa Wine Company, 40 Hwy. 29, Oakville. 800.848.9630. www.napawineco.com.

Rutherford Hill Winery on the east side of the Silverado Trail offers tours and blending sessions by appointment. The winery serves groups of two to as many as several dozen people. They receive a walk-through of the fermentation facilities and the vineyard, a tasting of several Merlots and a blending lesson that sees each guest off with a half bottle of their own personally labeled blend.

Rutherford Hill Winery, 200 Rutherford Hill Road (off the Silverado Trail and near the Auberge du Soleil), Rutherford. 707.963.1871. www.rutherfordhill.com.

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War’s Terrible Noise

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music & nightlife |

Eat the rich: Tracy’s Sept. 22 gig will be a live recording.

By Gabe Meline

Peter Tracy, a 58-year-old activist and songwriter with a rough voice and an easygoing manner of speaking, is talking about Vietnam. As a young man firmly against the Vietnam War, Tracy says that when he was drafted, he simply “didn’t have enough conviction to just say no.” He soon found himself miserably dragging his feet on the other side of the world. With little hope to live on, the despair almost destroyed him. He attempted to take his own life. By a fortunate fluke, he was found just in the nick of time and rescued.

“I was very lucky that I came out the other side,” he says now, reflecting on his decision. “At the time, of course, it was a horrible thing to do. But actually, as I look at it now, having faced that at an early age, I guess there’s not really much worse that can happen.” Discharged back to the United States, Tracy entered a mental hospital where he was treated in the fashion of the day for suicide attempts: he was shot up with Thorazine.

Tracy has played music since he was 10, but it wasn’t until he traveled to Boston with Veterans for Peace three years ago that he started writing his own songs, the newest of which will be performed Sept. 22 at the New College of California. His song titles alone–“I Want a President,” “Right-Wing God”–offer a basic idea of Tracy’s perspective as a fervent antiwar veteran, and his lyrics, far from the dopey, vague poetry that often passes for protest, bite back at specific societal corruptions. One of his recent compositions about misguided prioritization of values and red-baiting is entitled “Gay Marriage and Flagburners.”

This weekend’s performance is a stone aimed at two birds: the first is the recording of Eat the Rich, a live CD that will be released shortly thereafter if, Tracy says, “I don’t screw up the songs.” The second is to help pay medical bills for Mitchell Crane, a co-worker’s son who was hit head-on in a motorcycle accident and is still recovering.

With a confident finger-picking style and a casual, almost spoken-word singing style, Tracy gives his song a comfortable spin–on the surface. Step inside the open blues tunings and contagious choruses, and it’s not so cozy. This weekend, he’ll be performing a song he wrote last month for a heated rally in Fulton defending undocumented workers, and another song dedicated to a local woman’s struggle to help people get out of the Army through the legal means of separation.

“But hopefully there’s a lot of humor in most of these songs,” Tracy offers. “I don’t want to beat people over the head with stuff they already know, and I try to look at serious political stuff with some humor, so it’s not just ranting.”

Tracy’s first album, Speak Out, tilted toward this humor with the song “Gropin’ Fuhrer Governator,” which included the lines “See you later, Terminator / Time to terminate yourself.” “Ignoranus” is one of his newer songs, profiling that special breed, “someone who’s stupid and an asshole, too. Somebody with a huge truck or a Hummer with a flag on the back,” Tracy notes. And who can resist “Cheney’s Drinkin’ Whiskey for Breakfast,” a bluegrass song which Tracy admits, with a laugh, “is basically about Cheney getting drunk and shooting his buddy in the face”?

It’s heartening to know that Tracy can still laugh even as he documents the world’s problems in song, and more so that he has survived to enjoy a relatively normal life. For the last 25 years, he has worked at a county mental hospital, a job he brings a dose of compassion to from past experience as a patient. He is married with children and lives in Santa Rosa, and for 10 years he even attended a church. Recently, however, he’s found himself at odds with its religious trajectory.

“They’re kind of moving toward God,” he says, “and I’m moving away.”

Peter Tracy performs this Friday, Sept. 22, with David Woeller, Michael Drayton, Tim Salz, Robert Lunceford and Leslie Rolleri at the New College Of California. 99 Sixth St., Santa Rosa. 8pm. $15. 707.568.0112.




FIND A MUSIC REVIEW

Morsels

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September 20-26, 2006

In the vast galactic history of Heavenly Hamburgers, my time as chief grill master–OK, so I made that title up–was but a speck of dust. Though my impact on the place may not have been mighty, the place certainly had an effect on me. After watching my brother slave away there every weekend of his high school days at the fiery grill of Heavenly under the simultaneously kindhearted and hip boss known only as Mick (no need for that Mr. Powner crap), I was nonetheless wary of taking over such responsibility. But with plenty of patience and positive reinforcement, Mick molded me into a top-notch burger baron who takes pride in his grilling skills to this very day.

Even when flipped by my less-than-experienced hands, the burgers were always top-notch at Heavenly. Crispy fries, thick shakes, fresh veggies–these might seem like cliché expectations to any burger-loving layman, but when you get right down to it, there just wasn’t a better burger joint within driving distance of Santa Rosa. But now those craving a quality piece of meat slathered in delicious secret sauce will have to seek elsewhere, because after 51 years at the same location, a redesign of the building will force the little hamburger stand that could to close its doors on Sept. 30.

Mick is truly a gentleman among burger men; he is there bright and early every single morning, getting the place ready for the day’s steady stream of regulars and first-time customers. For years he could even be seen personally manning the grill with a smile and a greeting for all every weekday until 4pm, when punks like me took over for the night. And when the secret sauce shelves started to empty, Mick is there with his jovial grin. He could spend all night with his giant, hollowed-out, washing-machine-sized bowl on top of the grill, cooking up the sauce recipe that no one but the most privileged of privileged few were privy to.

But enough of the “was” and “did” of the past. There’s still almost two weeks left before Heavenly closes its door at its Sonoma Highway outpost, and there’s even a possibility that the secret sauce may boil over again one day in a different location. (Mick says, “All options are being considered.”) But there are no guarantees in this life, so head on down to Heavenly while you still can for a burger that really is sent down from the angels above.

Heavenly Hamburgers, 4910 Sonoma Hwy., Santa Rosa. Open 11am to 8pm daily–through Saturday, Sept. 30. 707.539.9791.

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News of the Food

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September 20-26, 2006

A few years ago, The New Yorker published its first-ever food issue. I still have a dog-eared copy of the magazine that I saved for posterity. The serious treatment of food writing in a publication like The New Yorker was a vindication of sorts for people (OK, me) who have long enjoyed food writing of greater depth than the stereotypical article on choosing a Thanksgiving turkey or how to bake a bundt cake.

Because of food’s universality, it offers a window into culture, politics, history, biology and personalities that goes well beyond what’s for dinner. In short, food is about much more than food, and food writing is finally getting its due.Of course, literary food writing, as it’s sometimes known, is nothing new. Writers like Calvin Trillin, Raymond Sokolov, Jim Harrison and the late M. F. K. Fisher have long mined the subject with brilliant results. What’s interesting is that now some of the best food writing is found outside the pages of traditional food magazines.

The latest magazine to discover food as a journalistic subject is The Nation. The venerable weekly magazine is best known for its sharp, left-leaning political analysis and investigative reporting. Its Sept. 11 issue (not a coincidence, I bet) is its first-ever food issue. The cover shows a sleeping woman decked out in red, white and blue and the words “Wake up, America! Pay attention to what you eat.”

The issue includes many of the usual suspects of serious, nonrecipe-based food writing such as Alice Waters, Wendell Berry and Michael Pollan. If you’ve read Fast Food Nation or seen Super Size Me, many of these articles will be familiar to you and echo similar themes: the industrialization of food is making us sick, poisoning the earth and endangering the health of farm laborers and food-service workers.

“What single thing could change the U.S. food system, practically overnight?” writes Fast Food Nation author Eric Schlosser in an essay on improving the state of what we eat. “Widespread public awareness–of how this system operates and whom it benefits, how it harms consumers, how it mistreats animals and pollutes the land, how it corrupts public officials and intimidates the press, and most of all, how its power ultimately depends on a series of cheerful and ingenious lies.”

Several writers found both in the kitchen and in the laboratory gather on Sunday, Sept. 24, to discuss modern-day food issues at the Russian River Food & Winefest. Gathering at 2pm that day are What to Eat author Marion Nestle, writer Michael Pollan, whose latest is The Omnivore’s Dilemma, as well as New York Times writer Kim Severson, San Francisco Chronicle columnist Marlena Spieler, local chef and author John Ash and event co-organizer and restaurant consultant Clark Wolf. Coming from divergent backgrounds and experiences, the panel will hash the “Earth to Table” issue that has become a major area of concern.

The Nation‘s food issue is off the newsstands by now, but is available online. It’s well worth seeking out. There’s nothing wrong with bundt cake recipes, but food is too important a subject and too important to the health of the planet and the creatures who inhabit it to relegate it to just the pages of Bon Appétit and Women’s World.

Russian River Food & Winefest is slated for Sunday, Sept. 24, from 11:30am to 5:30pm. Artisan food and cheese samplings, barista and cooking demos and plenty of lovely, yummy wine. Extra events reserved for VIP ticket holders. Monte Rio Riverfront Meadow, Rocky Beach, Monte Rio. $20-$60. www.russianriverfoodandwinefest.com.

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Cool to Be Kind

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It matters: Community Matters’ executive director Rick Phillips believes that school violence can be diffused if the strongest kids lead.

By Diane Darling

Columbine. Red Lake. Violence in the schools is a significant public-health issue that is pervasive and ongoing in every school system regardless of its demographics. Bullying is a familiar problem with an enormous, long-term price: adults who were targets of bullies have a high incidence of depression and low self-esteem. Adults who were schoolyard bullies have higher rates of incarceration and domestic and workplace violence. To say nothing of the heartbreaking effects on the child victims themselves: sleep disturbances, eating disorders, depression, anxiety, even suicide.

After the shootings at Columbine High School, the federal government poured millions of dollars into school safety, mostly in security measures: keep the guns out, keep the bombs out, keep the troublemakers out. All of which is what Community Matters’ executive director Rick Phillips calls an ‘outside-in’ approach.

“Here’s what we know: you can check the guns at the door, but you can’t check the kids at the door,” Phillips says, seated in the Sebastopol office of his nonprofit agency. “They still walk into the campus, into every building, bringing with them their grudges, stereotypes, family history, values and bruises that often get played out on campus.”

This approach has been successful in that rates of school violence have declined. But that doesn’t mean that the numbers are good. In 2003, reports show that in schools nationwide, there were 154,200 serious violent crimes–rape, sexual assault, aggravated assault (855 average each day); 584,500 simple assaults (3,250 average each day); and 1,191,400 thefts (6,620 average each day).

During Phillips’ 20 years as a teacher and principal in California elementary and high schools, he witnessed the struggles of thousands of kids. “I saw the costs of school violence: the cost to the child; to the school in lost revenues due to suspensions; to school personnel time trying to deal with it; the cost to the families trying to assist their kids in having a successful school day. I saw these things every day.”

Eleven years ago, Phillips, 60, founded Community Matters, an organization devoted to creating a safe physical and emotional environment for students to learn.

“We take a different approach, one focused on relationships, on empowering young people to partner with adults in addressing this issue,” Phillips says. “And most importantly, setting up social norms of compassion and of bystanders speaking up and taking care of each other. We approach school violence from the inside out, putting students at the center.”

In addition to the traditional schoolyard abuse of physical, verbal and social bullying, a novel form of harassment has recently emerged: cyberbullying. To a kid whose picture has been posted on a website to make him look bad, this can be devastating.

“Much of this is going on under the radar of what adults see,” Phillips explains. “Overt bullying, teachers can see. But covert kinds have become pervasive and are usually not seen by adults.”

Enter Safe School Ambassadors, an innovative program developed by Community Matters to diffuse the often-invisible elements that prompt school bullying and violence. Community Matters has been training Safe School Ambassadors for over five years: 15,000 people in 400 schools in 21 states have participated in the program. In the 2006-2007 school year, another 150 schools will incorporate this program into their social ecology.

“Students see, hear and know things that adults don’t. They can intervene in ways that adults can’t. Also, students are first on the scene of an incident before adults ever get there,” Phillips reasons. “While adults set the rules, the young people set the social norms of what’s cool or not cool. When it’s cool to be cruel, that cannot be mandated away by policy. We can’t prevent that away, we can’t threaten that away or wish that away. We have to engage parents, staff and the community, but most importantly the young people themselves, because they hold the key to creating a safer school climate.”

The first puzzle to be solved is in breaking the code of silence that inhibits kids from alerting adults to impending violence. At Columbine and Red Lake, it was reported that as many as a hundred kids knew days before that these incidents were planned, but no one spoke up. What was stopping them?

Community Matters found that kids fear retaliation from which adults cannot protect them, and while they may know right from wrong, they don’t know what to say or do.

“Our challenge was to mobilize the bystanders, to change the social norms in a school from ‘it’s cool to be cruel’ to ‘it’s cool to be compassionate, it’s cool to intervene,'” Phillips says. “We had to look for the influential early adapters. The students most likely to speak up are the kids who have high social status amongst their peer groups. We identify the ‘alpha kids’ within all the different cliques of the school.”

A school is like the United Nations: within each are little countries, and within each country are different customs, standards and leaders. Some of them have issues with other countries, with contrary belief systems, different behaviors and goals: stoners, jocks, goths, gangs and so on. Within each group are kids who have high social capital and well-developed verbal skills, who are likely to speak up in a situation. What Phillips and his team have done is to actually nominate those kids as Ambassadors. Once identified, an Ambassador is given training to be a peer mentor.

“We identify, recruit and train these alpha kids in nonviolent communication skills,” he says. What motivates these so-called alpha kids to switch from cruelty to compassion?

“We speak to their enlightened sense of self-interest,” Phillips smiles. “We say, ‘Here’s a program that will train you with communication skills that will help you get a job, get along with your parents better and negotiate with your friends and your teachers. And if you use them, you can also save your friends from getting in trouble, getting suspended, getting hurt, getting into a fight. You can play that role. That’s what this program can do for you. You are already a powerful person. What about using your power to make the world around you and the people you care about safer and better?'”

Recently, the Navajo nation approached the program about helping it address youth violence by bringing the Safe School Ambassadors program to 50 reservation schools.

But most schools are underfunded. For the 2006-2007 school year, the federal government decreased funding for violence prevention by 21 percent. It costs $4,000 per school to bring the Safe School Ambassadors program to train 40 of the most powerful kids in skills they’ll have for the rest of their lives at a cost of roughly $100 per child. And if these kids intervene to stop fights in their school, they will have paid for the program and more.

In many instances, the overall grade point average of the school improves, and in particular, the Ambassadors’ grades, attendance, communication skills, empathy and acceptance of diversity improve markedly.

“Over a three- or four-year period, we see huge societal shifts within school systems. Schools where we’ve trained [to have] Safe School Ambassadors report reductions in fights and suspensions and in gang violence, and increases in attendance by those kids who used to stay home because of bullying.

“When a few months have gone by, we come back and interview the Ambassadors,” Phillips explains. “They say, ‘I feel different about myself. I used to feel like I was just another kid coming to this school to get educated, but now I know I’m somebody here who makes a difference. I come to school ready every day with a sense of purpose because I’m doing something I know is contributing, and it feeds me.'”

“What we’re really doing is shining a light on a path that they didn’t know existed. These are powerful kids, and they are looking for ways to express their power. We show them a different way, and they discover it feels good to walk this path of courage, healing, helping and compassion.

“We know it works: Believe in kids. Identify the ones who have social capital from all the diverse cliques. Teach them, train them, then meet with them regularly in school so they’re not just left to their own devices and there’s a safety net, a small circle of community around them as they do these brave actions.

“What we want more than anything is to give our work away to schools that want it.”

Community Matters holds its second annual Circle of Change charitable luncheon on Nov. 9 at the Flamingo Hotel. For details, call 707.823.6159 or go to www.community-matters.org.


Leggo My Ego

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September 20-26, 2006


Once celebrated and feared as the bad boy of filmdom, Orson Welles was a brilliant director so difficult to work with and so personally erratic that following his first movie, the monumental Citizen Kane, he never again made a movie in Hollywood that wasn’t controlled and butchered by the studios. Simultaneously egotistical and emotionally fragile, Welles, with only sporadic moments of post-Kane brilliance, was ultimately reduced by the end of his life to spoofy walk-ons in The Muppet Movie, bizarre meteor-toting appearances on The Tonight Show and those terrible Gallo wine commercials currently enjoying a vogue on Youtube.com.

In Orson’s Shadow, now in its Northern California premiere at the Marin Theatre Company, playwright Austin Pendleton has devised a fascinating way to muse upon the tragicomedy that was Orson Welles’ creative life, piggybacking onto the similarly loose-cannon mind-set of that other emotionally contradictory acting genius, Laurence Olivier. Taking a little-remembered footnote from film and stage history, Pendleton re-creates the moment in the early 1960s when Welles’ friend, the English theater critic Kenneth Tynan, persuaded him to direct a London production of Eugene Ionesco’s Rhinoceros, starring Olivier and his then-mistress (and future wife), Joan Plowright. The resulting clash of egos and wounded psyches nearly swamped the whole production, made more complex by the fact that Olivier was at that point married to the mentally unstable actress Vivien Leigh, of Scarlett O’Hara fame.

In Orson’s Shadow, thoughtfully directed by Lee Sankowich, Welles, brilliantly and soulfully impersonated by Steve Irish, is still smarting from the bad reviews and empty houses that met his disastrous original work Chimes at Midnight, a grandiose variation on Shakespeare’s Henry IV. When an ailing Tynan (Liam Vincent) appears backstage to encourage his troublesome friend to take the job directing Rhinoceros, the show kicks off in an entertainingly farcical tone with Tynan addressing the audience.

Welles’ first appearance is, as the title suggests, as a shadow, thrown larger than life across the stage floor as his stentorian voice booms down from an upstairs dressing room. This early scene, enhanced by the pleasantly clueless backstage hand Sean (Zac Jaffee), is a verbal jousting match between Tynan and Welles. Once Welles agrees to direct Olivier, with whom he has long had a love-hate relationship, and whom he now blames for his failure in Hollywood, the action shifts to the Royal Court Theatre in London, where the biggest battles of the play take place.

Plowright, an arch and watchful Deborah Taylor Barrera, and Olivier, played with magnificent manic energy by Nicholas Hormann, are experiencing their own series of relationship issues. The sexy-maternal Plowright expertly caretakes the great one while absorbing the heartbreak of his lovestruck stories about his crazy wife, who, of course, finally shows up to spread more comic drama.

Played with surprising decency and respect by Amy Resnick, Vivien Leigh is at once bonkers and wise, the only character who seems to recognize what all of these fragile egos really need and how they can drop their petty worries and grudges and get down to the work they are famous for: creating brilliant art on stage and screen. In its final moments, Orson’s Shadow becomes startlingly moving, proving itself to be a love letter, of sorts, not only to the quirky brilliance of Olivier and Welles, but to the ridiculous, incalculably neurotic beauty of the creative process itself.

‘Orson’s Shadow’ runs through Oct. 8 at the Marin Theatre Company. Tuesday and Thursday-Saturday at 8pm; Wednesday at 7:30pm; Sunday at 2pm and 7pm; also, Sept. 20 and 28 at 1pm; Oct. 7 at 2pm. Sept. 20 at 6pm, singles night reception. Marin Theatre Company, 397 Miller Ave., Mill Valley. $19-$47; Tuesday, pay what you can. 415.388.5208.


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Letters to the Editor

September 20-26, 2006

I Am a Teacher

I try not to reply or get outraged at what is, essentially, agendized commentary rather than actual news or reasoned debate, but–when Peter Byrne compares President Bush to a baby killer far more horrific than the likes of Richard Allen Davis ( Sept. 13), it’s too outrageous of a knee-jerk, irrational, anti-Republican, liberal, idiotic tirade to let slide. Claiming Bush (and/or American business interests) are responsible for thousands of children’s deaths ignores the native culture or the political entities truly responsible for the direct murder of children. Yes, we shouldn’t do business with bad regimes, but that doesn’t make us responsible for the behavior of those regimes. You could make equal claims against Roosevelt or Churchill as being indirectly responsible for the deaths of innocent children as a consequence of the Allied counterattacks during WW II.

Let’s be clear, I am not a Bush fan (and I don’t consider him a Churchill or Roosevelt). I think his nonsustainable education policies (I am a teacher) are stupidity itself, since they judge based on standardized tests which have nothing to do with authentic achievement. I have no problem with liberal thought, just the knee-jerk, irrational liberalism espoused by Byrne. I have a feeling that a lot of liberals feel the need to join a club that is more anti-white Southern male than one based on any reasoned thought process.

Steve Salkovics, Sebastopol

Flaming Sydney

As a long-time reader, I would like to give you a review of your new column, . And that would be: Are you kidding? Are these letters made up? I mean, they all seem so ridiculously simple (-minded), trite, shallow, naive, etc. These can’t be letters from real people. If they are, then their shallowness is really something to be depressed about. I feel this column cheapens your whole paper primarily because it is so shallow and your paper prides itself on the depth of its attachment concern and commitment to the nonmainstream community.

Michael L. Hoffman, Santa Rosa

The simple-minded, trite, shallow, naive truth is that lots of people are actually cheap enough to indeed, yes, write to Sydney. These are real letters. And given that Sydney is a brand-new columnist from our area–not some slick syndicator who doesn’t know squat about the North Bay–it would be nice if we could all give her a bit of break, what eh? But thanks for that nice end bit. One of the things that we do best at the Bohemian is to nurture emerging writers. Like Sydney. Write to her early and often at as*******@******an.com.

Fakt Czeching

I think Eugene Dey should check his facts ( Sept. 6). He may know of “bikers” who have in fact used and manufactured speed/crank. But he is quick to condemn all bikers as users and cookers. The one glaring so-called fact that keeps rearing its ugly head is the assurance that “the Hells Angels consider P2P their economic niche.”

That creates the assumption that the Hells Angels, as a club or organization, have been prosecuted and found guilty of manufacturing and or distributing speed and crank.

If Dey took the time to check his facts instead of falling for all the romantic notions that many authors before him have used to sell copy, he would discover it not to be true. At all. Not one bit. Ask the FBI. The DEA. To be found guilty of such an offense, as a club or organization, would constitute a RICO statue violation, and this in fact has never happened.

I hope Dey will use his remaining time in custody to brush up on his fact-finding, or sell the next article or book as a fantasy adventure.

Fred Brown, San Jose

Erotic frontiersman speaks!

I’m a man, and I read your story on the rift between mothers and feminists ( Sept. 13). Overall, I thought the story was really interesting, and I hope both sides work things out.

That being said, while I believe in equality between men and women, the authors characterized the sexbloggers as trying to “reclaim” sexuality on the Internet from a male-dominated sex market. From my male point of view, I don’t see that as ever having been exactly “claimed” by men. Certainly, we’ve settled that country, just to extend the “claiming” metaphor ad nauseam, but “claiming” and “reclaiming” implies that we men won it and it must somehow be wrested away from us by women. I don’t think we men do own erotica, at least not anymore. We welcome any woman who wants to settle that land with us.

Certainly, most men, being human, like sex and erotica. However, in the ’90s, feminists seemed really anti-sex. I think we men, at least those of us who were young men in the ’90s, got the mistaken impression that women didn’t like sex or something.

The term “reclaiming” made me feel like I, as a man, was being blamed for women’s lack of openness to the erotic, that I had somehow claimed a territory of humanity for men only, which I certainly haven’t. I’d just like to say, as an erotic frontiersman, that “this land is your land, this land is my land.”

Ivan Richmond, Mountain View


News Briefs

September 20-26, 2006

Hot losses

The impact of record-breaking triple-digit temperatures that baked California for two weeks in late July continues to be felt throughout the North Bay and statewide. The U.S. Department of Agriculture recently declared an economic disaster in Sonoma and 15 other California counties, making farmers and ranchers in those areas eligible for emergency loans from the federal Farm Services Agency. Residents of 31 neighboring counties, among them Marin and Napa, are also eligible for loans to cover agricultural losses caused by the high temps. “The heat wave really impacted the livestock industry more than anything,” says Mike Smith, deputy agricultural commissioner for Sonoma County. “We basically lost production from animals that succumbed to the heat.” Smith estimates Sonoma County losses at more than $1.4 million, including $982,064 in lost milk production. Fred Crowder, Marin County’s deputy agricultural commissioner, pegs his county’s losses at more than $4 million, including $3.5 million in lost milk production. Crowder adds that Marin County is asking state and federal officials to reconsider its status for receiving primary disaster funding. Napa County’s losses were negligible, says assistant commissioner Greg Clark, because most of the county’s farmland is devoted to wine grapes. Statewide, more than 130 people died from heat-related causes. California’s agricultural industry was hard hit, especially in the Central Valley where more than 25,000 cattle perished.

West Nile woes

A 17-year-old Novato girl has the dubious distinction of having contracted Marin County’s first human case of West Nile virus. A 58-year-old Petaluma man had that honor in Sonoma County last fall. Both recovered from their flu-like symptoms, but their bouts with this mosquito-borne disease indicate that vigilance is needed. Although there have been two California deaths, other statistics appear upbeat: 197 human cases statewide so far this year compared to 663 in 2005; only 43 California horses infected in 2006, as opposed to 372 last year. “I attribute that to the public being more aware of West Nile,” says Chris Canterbury of the Marin/Sonoma Mosquito and Vector Control District. Much more significant, Canterbury says, are the figures for “sentinel” chickens monitored statewide. Last year, 438 of these caged fowl contracted West Nile; this year’s count is already at 446, with more expected. More than ever, people need to eliminate pools of water where mosquitoes lay their eggs. “We’re always asking the public to flip it, dump it, drain it and get rid of any standing water around their property,” Canterbury explains. Napa County has had no human cases and found only three birds with West Nile this year, but abatement district director Wesley Maffei says West Nile is still a concern. “Continue to manage the water,” Maffei adds. “It’s not a one-time deal.”


Morsels

0

September 13-19, 2006

It’s OK to have mixed feelings about celebrity chef Thomas Keller. He’s almost annoyingly successful, cooking for the most elite of crowds. Yet his interviews are down-to-earth and playful (“Food should be fun,” he has said) and he opens his prized French Laundry gratis to the public once a year. While the local population seems to harbor a strange mixture of gratitude, envy and populist-inspired bitterness toward him, the mogul chef blithely has plans for expansion.

Already home to three of Keller’s meticulously designed and gut-wrenchingly priced eateries, Yountville currently boasts the French Laundry, Bouchon and Bouchon Bakery. But the little town (population 3,328) is now poised for a quadruple shot of Keller. The Midas touch chef will shortly be opening Ad Hoc, a meat-and-potatoes restaurant with a $45 prix fixe menu of four courses that will change daily. Scheduled to open on Sept. 16, the epicurean hot shoppe will take walk-ins only. Kristine Keefer, spokesperson for the French Laundry says, “So far, the community reaction to Ad Hoc has been very positive. They all say we need a nice, casual restaurant in Yountville.” (We’ll second that.)

Like its name, Ad Hoc is just temporary; after a few months, the restaurant will be completely re-outfitted into a burger joint, Burgers and Half Bottles. (This move might ring a bell with foodies, who will remember that Catalan chef Ferran Adria opened a fast-food restaurant, Fast Good, in Madrid, two years ago.) Keller’s venture, inspired by In-N-Out, will serve burgers, fries and milkshakes, as well as Modicum, the French Laundry’s house Cab.

But Keller has something else up his white sleeve: the Inn at French Laundry, an elaborate blueprint combining hospitality with gourmandise. Designed by Antoine Predock, who won the American Institute of Architects gold medal this year, the upscale auberge’s 20 rooms will sit on a three-acre site near its august namesake, but the inn is not slated for completion for another two or three years. Until then, we’ll be wondering: Will the pool be filled with Sauternes? Will the lobby have tomato air piped in? Will the pillows be programmed with visions of organic sugar plums, so that guests will literally have sweet dreams?

Ad Hoc Restaurant will be located at 6476 Washington St., Yountville. Open for dinner, Thursday-Monday. Walk-ins only. 707.944.2487.

Quick dining snapshots by Bohemian staffers.

Winery news and reviews.

Food-related comings and goings, openings and closings, and other essays for those who love the kitchen and what it produces.

Recipes for food that you can actually make.

News Briefs

September 13-19, 2006

Deutsche bank dupes?

A Marin County couple who hired Bankers Trust of California to manage a $19 million trust fund to aid Jewish charities were shocked to discover that the company is wholly owned by Deutsche Bank, which had financial links to the Nazi regime. Lawrence and Regina Lawrence of Ross sued, saying the bank should have disclosed its Nazi connections before agreeing to manage a Jewish charity trust fund, especially since relatives of Regina Lawrence perished in the Holocaust. In 1999, Deutsche Bank acknowledged its archives show that it financed companies that built the Auschwitz death camp and that it also handled accounts for the Gestapo, accepting deposits from the auction of Jewish property. The bank joined other major German companies to create a $5.2 billion compensation fund. The Lawrences’ suit also alleges mismanagement of their money. They’re asking for more than $4 million; if they win, the money will be donated to Jewish charities. A preliminary hearing is set for Oct. 27.

Lest we forget

About 30 Holocaust survivors from Sonoma, Napa and Marin counties will be honored on Sunday, Sept. 17, at Congregation Ner Shalom. Many of these folks endured the Nazi death camps; others hid during the war, were part of the Kindertransport or were able to leave Europe prior to 1939, says Larry Carlin, spokesman for the Alliance for the Study of the Holocaust. Founding members of the Alliance will also be recognized at this fundraising event for Sonoma State University’s Holocaust Lecture Series, which holds its 24th season beginning next January. “Many of the Holocaust survivors who share their stories now are in their 80s and 90s,” says Elaine Leeder, dean of SSU’s school of social sciences. “We want to honor them now.”

No good deed . . .

City officials at American River Canyon are coping with a couple of long delays. Last year the city council voted to send $10,000 to aid hurricane victims in Abbeville, La., about 150 miles due west of New Orleans with a population around 13,000. But because of the logistics of getting the money directly to people in need in Abbeville, the $10,000 remains in the city’s coffers. In a separate challenge, playground equipment bought for $66,600 in 2003 remains in the city’s corporation yard. The city tried to hire a contractor to install the equipment in four parks in conjunction with other projects, but the lowest bid was $240,000 over budget. Robert Weil of the city’s planning department said the project will be divided into two parts–site prep and actual installation–in an attempt to attract lower bids.


Personal Best

September 20-26, 2006Crush time is here, and the grapes hang heavy in the Indian summer sun. Such a sight makes wannabe vintners of many dreamers. How nice it would be, they sigh, to have a winery of one's own, tucked somewhere far back in the quiet oak-studded hills of Napa or Sonoma. But such idyllic dreams can quickly turn...

War’s Terrible Noise

music & nightlife | Eat the rich: Tracy's Sept....

Morsels

September 20-26, 2006 In the vast galactic history of Heavenly Hamburgers, my time as chief grill master--OK, so I made that title up--was but a speck of dust. Though my impact on the place may not have been mighty, the place certainly had an effect on me. After watching my brother slave away there every weekend of his high school...

News of the Food

September 20-26, 2006 A few years ago, The New Yorker published its first-ever food issue. I still have a dog-eared copy of the magazine that I saved for posterity. The serious treatment of food writing in a publication like The New Yorker was a vindication of sorts for people (OK, me) who have long enjoyed food writing of greater depth...

Cool to Be Kind

It matters: Community Matters' executive director Rick Phillips believes...

Leggo My Ego

September 20-26, 2006Once celebrated and feared as the bad boy of filmdom, Orson Welles was a brilliant director so difficult to work with and so personally erratic that following his first movie, the monumental Citizen Kane, he never again made a movie in Hollywood that wasn't controlled and butchered by the studios. Simultaneously egotistical and emotionally fragile, Welles, with...

Letters to the Editor

September 20-26, 2006I Am a TeacherI try not to reply or get outraged at what is, essentially, agendized commentary rather than actual news or reasoned debate, but--when Peter Byrne compares President Bush to a baby killer far more horrific than the likes of Richard Allen Davis ( Sept. 13), it's too outrageous of a knee-jerk, irrational, anti-Republican, liberal, idiotic...

News Briefs

September 20-26, 2006 Hot losses The impact of record-breaking triple-digit temperatures that baked California for two weeks in late July continues to be felt throughout the North Bay and statewide. The U.S. Department of Agriculture recently declared an economic disaster in Sonoma and 15 other California counties, making farmers and ranchers in those areas eligible for emergency loans from the...

Morsels

September 13-19, 2006It's OK to have mixed feelings about celebrity chef Thomas Keller. He's almost annoyingly successful, cooking for the most elite of crowds. Yet his interviews are down-to-earth and playful ("Food should be fun," he has said) and he opens his prized French Laundry gratis to the public once a year. While the local population seems to harbor...

News Briefs

September 13-19, 2006 Deutsche bank dupes? A Marin County couple who hired Bankers Trust of California to manage a $19 million trust fund to aid Jewish charities were shocked to discover that the company is wholly owned by Deutsche Bank, which had financial links to the Nazi regime. Lawrence and Regina Lawrence of Ross sued, saying the bank should have...
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