The Byrne Report

May 2-8, 2007

On a rainy night in late April, I sat in the Tomales Town Hall watching a live theater troupe perform a play about the Vietnam war called A Piece of My Heart. Normally, I do not attend live theater. Retread Broadway scripts bore me to curses and commercial actors creep me out. Nor do I watch television shows. (Well, I did rent a video of The Sopranos once and was neither shocked nor amused to see that our violence-sucking society considers murder-for-profit and snarling misogyny to be a humorous form of entertainment.)

I avoid television news; it gives me gas. But I am marginally well-informed, thanks to the snippets of real life that filter through our thought-controlled Internet. And I read lots of those interesting books that Amazon.com tells me to buy. For example, I recently finished C. Wright Mill’s classic 1956 study of the military-industrial-political complex, The Power Elite. We’ll talk about that in a minute.

So there I was, sitting on a cold metal folding chair in the drafty town hall of a tiny town on a wet night with a dozen others watching a true-life play about American nurses and soldiers getting the shaft in Vietnam. A Piece of My Heart was first produced in New York City in 1991. The song-filled drama, written by Shirley Lauro, opened for a short run in Point Reyes Station a few weeks ago. But Tina Taylor, the play’s director, tells me that her local newspaper, the Point Reyes Light, owned and operated by Robert Plotkin, did not write a story about the community-produced event nor review it nor print any of several letters to the editor about the play that readers sent in.

In response, Plotkin told me, “We review almost no plays. Sometimes we run it in the calendar section. When we have an art critic, as we did last summer, our art coverage goes up. But amateur reviews are lousy.”

I thought the antiwar play was extraordinarily timely, and I applaud the gutsy cast for raising their voices to expose the shame of warring on Vietnam and, by implication, Iraq and Afghanistan. Taylor and her troupe want to tour local high schools with the play. They hope seeing it will discourage North Bay youth from enlisting in the armed forces only to be chewed up and spit out after “serving” their country. My main criticism of the play is that it does not search for–nor find any meaningful analysis of–why the United States killed 2 million Vietnamese civilians before they finally defeated us on the battlefield.

Playwright Lauro throws a few rhetorical barbs at warlike males as a group, as if American females are not just as bloodthirsty as their mates, and rants a bit about “the brass,” without telling us who “the brass” are. In short, the play has pathos a-plenty, but lacks tragic stature, due, in large part, to its failure to acknowledge that the Vietnamese side of the struggle was a war of liberation against foreign invaders.

And that brings us back to The Power Elite. In it, Mills systematically lays out how the post-WW II military-scientific bureaucracy, multinational corporations and the “political directorate” combined into a profit-seeking elite that runs America as a permanent war economy. Mills foresaw, several generations ago, that much of American culture, education, journalism and our very thought processes have been militarized: “Peace is no longer serious; only war is serious. Every man and every nation is either friend or foe, and the idea of enmity becomes mechanical, massive and without genuine passion.”

The military-industrial publicity machine, observes Mills, “plant[s its] metaphysics firmly among the population at large,” relying upon “the absence of opposition to [its program] . . . portraying the armed forces in a manner attractive to civilians” and developing “a cast of mind that defines international reality as basically military.”

This is a profound broadcast by Mills over the chasm of a half-century. Since then, we have degenerated to the point where we shrug off presidentially ordered torture, officially sanctioned kidnappings, indefinite detentions and the daily slaughter of innocents as merely another installment of The Sopranos. But the Dance Palace’s heart-felt antiwar production stood out in the poisoned cultural atmosphere we breath. Mass media suffocates us intellectually and scorches our hearts with a cultural diet that promotes consumption, narcissism and the blind eye.

Mills warned us: “American militarism, in fully developed form, would mean the triumph in all areas of life of the military metaphysic, and hence the subordination to it of all other ways of life.”

I salute Dance Palace for raising a small voice against the tide.

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First Bite

Have you ever wondered what lies within that huge, posh-looking facade on Sausalito’s Bridgeway Avenue called Poggio? I always have, and one day in early April I found out. White tablecloths, romantic interior lighting, polished wood, maroon velvet, regal arched doorways and a few more of my very favorite things are all found within.

After I was seated by the hostess, my very kind server followed with a tall crystal carafe of water. To begin, I considered the chicken liver and asparagus crostini ($9) but went instead for the Caprino baked goat cheese and flatbread ($10). The crunchy, wafer-thin flatbread was stuck with pine nuts and grappa-soaked raisins and apricots. I wasn’t sure whether or not the point was to spread the creamy hot cheese over the bread and make a mini pizza, but that’s what I did and I liked it just fine. A dinky pear-and-greens salad dressed in vinaigrette sat meekly beside the crostini. Meanwhile, a hitch-hiking scrap of liver had somehow found its way onto my plate and was a welcome surprise.

The vinegar and the oil, the goat cheese and the complimentary oven-fresh rolls which I lathered in smooth-whipped butter all conspired to lift me up and away to the hills of Southern France. It wasn’t quite Italy, but that is no fault of Poggio. The excellent food is plainly Italian, and with it I savored a very nice Chianti Superiore ($7.25). Yet there I was in the hills of France. As a kid, I traveled with my family through much of southern Europe. I was only five and couldn’t see any difference between one wine-soaked land and the next, and I think my olfactory transmitters must have gotten a little mixed up with all the baguettes and cheese and the mules and peasants scurrying in every direction.

The baby beets and arugula salad ($9) bumped me right over the Alps and into Italy. The sliced ricotta on top was fresh and cool, white as snow and pure as the River Po, and it absorbed the color and the faint sweetness of the pink and orange beets just beautifully, while the crunchy arugula cut the flavor like a knife.

We could talk on and on about the little things: how the droplets of green olive oil lingered like polka dots in the dark burgundy vinegar; how the dry Chianti reflected the Europeans’ confident, no-nonsense approach to winemaking; how the foam of my espresso ($1.95) tickled my upper lip; how many of Poggio’s herbs and garnishes come from the certified organic garden on the hillside out back, but the fact is my food was gone. No airplane could have taken me to Europe and back faster than the food at Poggio did, and I walked out the door and down the street as one who has really been somewhere.

Poggio has a seasonally changing menu and is open for lunch and dinner daily; the cafe opens for breakfast daily at 6:30am. 777 Bridgeway, Sausalito. 415.332.7771.



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Quick-and-dirty dashes through North Bay restaurants. These aren’t your standard “bring five friends and order everything on the menu” dining reviews.

Cottage Industry

May 2-8, 2007

Spring Fashion:

Sebastopol mother of two Alix McCauley has been content to stay at home with her kids for the last seven years, taking special time to raise her son and daughter, now seven and three, be available for play dates and do school volunteering, work on her garden and help renovate the old house she and her husband bought a few years ago. Trained as a painter and photographer at the Rhode Island School of Design, McCauley hasn’t had time to do much fine art, but she has made her children’s clothes and, before that, made her own maternity clothes. And then one day last November, a friend told her about an online marketplace for crafters and artisans, Etsy.com. Never one to turn down an idle moment to shop, McCauley took a look and loved what she saw.

“I was immediately inspired,” she says. “I’d never seen anything like it; it’s a compilation of so many energies.” Before she went to bed that night, specifically the night of Nov. 19, 2006, McCauley took some photos of clothes she had made for herself and, thinking little of it, posted them to Etsy.

When she woke up the next day, all of them were sold.

Now just five months later, McCauley–who taught herself to sew–estimates that she has completed some 700 custom-made pieces through her store, Treehouse28, on Etsy.com. Standing in the airy backyard cottage that literally houses her cottage industry, she still seems a little shocked by her immediate success.

A tall, willowy strawberry blonde who is also her brand’s only model, McCauley, 38, is an old-fashioned dressmaker in a decidedly new-fashioned world. Working exclusively with cotton-lycra blend fabrics that are stretchy and forgiving and particularly beloved by pregnant women and yoga enthusiasts, McCauley makes earth-tone dresses, headbands, shirts, arm warmers and pants exactly to her customer’s dimensions.

“It’s all custom work,” she says. “I don’t work from sizing charts. I’m finding that a lot of people of different sizes and shapes want a wardrobe that works for them perfectly.” McCauley posts pictures of herself modestly modeling her designs, customers send in their dimensions–including how long they like their tops to be from shoulder to leg–and in a two-week turnaround, the item appears in the mail, hand-addressed and with a short note from McCauley inside the package.

A typical dress costs just $60, entirely intended from color choice to breadth to length just for its new owner. And prices don’t change for larger women, whose clothing assuredly uses more fabric than do the size-zero eenie-beanies. “It’s really rewarding making clothing for women who don’t feel like they can pick up a piece of stylish clothing and have it fit,” McCauley says. “A lot of women don’t want to go out shopping or don’t have the time or feel shy trying clothes on in public.”

The small cottage where McCauley works is immaculate, with clothing samples hanging from the ceiling, and her three sewing machines–two of them commercial sergers that she had to hastily purchase within the first month of her uncanny success–sitting on a white table, quietly at the ready. Even with the flood of orders that come in daily from spots as disparate as New Zealand, England and North Dakota, McCauley still keeps track of her inventory flow on a yellow legal pad.

A bright orange basket on the floor holds fabric scraps that she uses to hand-tie each garment before packaging it herself for shipping. In less than half a year, she already has large design houses interested in her products and is fielding offers to expand and redirect the very personal nature of her business. And, oh, she has also had to learn how to actually do business.

“I’m at that point already where I need to consider how big I want to be, how much I want to do,” she says, settling down on an oversized white sofa. “I can make the sales. Now it’s a matter of how to handle a business that’s growing. It’s exciting.”

She leans forward and smiles. “It’s something I would never have forecast five months ago.”

To learn more, go to www.etsy.com and search for Treehouse28 under ‘sellers.’


Cosmetic Damage

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May 2-8, 2007

Spring Fashion:

We all want to be healthy; we want be good to the environment and ourselves. Yet in our ever more health conscious society, a surprising the number of people cover themselves with unhealthful toxins every day. Of course, you’d never do that. Would you?

Most likely, you do. You may not know it, but an astonishing number of personal care products are full of unhealthy chemicals, including proven carcinogens. The brands of highest concern include, but definitely aren’t limited to, Chanel, Banana Boat, Revlon, Clairol and Gillette. But there are alternatives. Over 500 brands, including Burt’s Bees and the Body Shop, have signed a pledge to replace harmful or dangerous ingredients with more healthful alternatives.

This sort of voluntary action is needed because little is being done in America to regulate the cosmetics industry. The Marin-based youth coalition Teens for Safe Cosmetics (TSC), which recently held a prom-themed protest against unsafe products, says that the European Union has already banned more than a thousand chemicals from cosmetics due to health concerns, while the United States has only deemed nine ingredients potentially damaging enough to ban them. Right now, one in three of our personal-care products includes possible carcinogens, and only 11 percent of the more than 10,500 chemicals used in them have been tested for safety.

Last fall, the California legislature passed SB 1379, which requires cosmetic companies to provide a list of potentially damaging ingredients to the Department of Health Services for review. But while the state program is still getting up to speed, the Environmental Working Group, a team of experts who investigate and expose health and environmental threats, is acting. They have posted ingredient lists and “safety scores” for most brands of cosmetics on their website at www.ewg.org. Among the top things they warn against are mercury, thimerosal, lead acetate, formaldehyde, toluene and petroleum distillates.

Conjuring up images of dead frogs and scalpels, formaldehyde is not exactly reminiscent of lovely scented bathroom products. But in addition to being a preservative, formaldehyde also functions as a disinfectant and a germicide, and can therefore be found in commercial soaps, deodorants and shampoos, among other things. Not only is formaldehyde a suspected carcinogen, it may also trigger asthma and damage DNA.

Two other pervasive ingredients are sodium laureth and sodium laurel sulfate, which TSC avers can “alter skin structure, allowing other chemicals to penetrate deep into the skin increasing the amount of other chemicals that reach the bloodstream.” Both compounds are found in just about all types of makeup as well as many other products. And, as a short-hand, anything that lists “fragrance” as an ingredient may be using that as a façade for harmful ingredients. But label scanning won’t always protect you; companies are known to leave off some ingredients or disguise them by only printing their Latin names.

One new alternative to conventional cosmetic chemistry is mineral makeup, which uses naturally occurring minerals as the basis for the products. Not only is mineral makeup free of toxic chemicals, it provides protection from the sun and can even include customized levels of moisturization or oil control.

With conventional makeup, says Tara Voight, owner of the Always Pampered salon in Novato, “women are trying to cover up instead of work with their skin.” Instead, she advocates using mineral makeup, which doesn’t clog pores and can be customized to complement your skin.

Voight, who has been working in the skincare business for 14 years, is such a believer in the benefits of mineral makeup that she has developed her own line. She says creating high-quality mineral makeup is just a matter of practice, and her long-term goal for her line is to “make one better than the rest.”

The cost of these products is greater than their drugstore counterparts, with blush and powders ranging from $25 to $45 and lipsticks and eye shadows somewhere between $20 and $25.

For Voight, assisting her clients in making the changeover is a source of satisfaction. “It’s great to see people out of their ugly eye shadow and into something better,” she smiles. And it is not only an aesthetic improvement, Voight says, “it makes them feel better too.”

Is feeling and looking better worth the extra effort? It would certainly seem that way. According to TSC, breast cancer rates are rising rapidly and “sperm counts among men throughout the industrialized world” have already fallen by 50 percent in only 50 years. To reverse these ominous trends, they suggest you “demand your stores stock your favorite safe products, contact manufacturers directly and urge them to replace hazardous ingredients with safe alternatives, or write your state and local officials urging them to support and initiate safe cosmetics legislation.”

Or we could just allow the great cosmetic chemical cover-up to continue.

Always Pampered, 818 Grant Ave., Novato. 415.899.8445. To learn more about Teens for Safe Cosmetics, go to www.teens4sc.org.


Crowded House

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May 2-8, 2007

Jimmy Tamborello has always gotten by with a little help from his friends. It seems that every project the electro-mastermind behind Figurine and the Postal Service has worked on is packed full of the 21st-century indie-rock elite. Dumb Luck, the new album from his Dntel project, is no different, gathering a glittering crew of guest vocalists and musicians to contribute.

His most famous collaborator, Ben Gibbard–the voice that made the Postal Service’s Give Up a hit and the “other” album for Death Cab for Cutie fans to own–is conspicuously missing. But Dumb Luck continues to offer Tamborello’s signature blend of sparse yet warm and whimsical electronic textures that convey a sense of the state between sleep and consciousness. The title track kicks off the album, with Tamborello himself speak-singing like Lou Reed over a melody fighting through the synthesized haze, before Sufjan Stevens-like choruses blend with acoustic strumming.

This trend continues throughout the album, with instrumentation shifting with each verse while retaining cohesion, proving the meticulous five years it took to record was worth it and making a quantum leap over 2001’s more uniformly Eno-like Life Is Full of Possibilities. Highlights include the slow crawling “Rock My Boat,” which evokes late-era Massive Attack, especially with Mia Doi Todd’s ethereal singing. Of course, the superstar spots also satisfy, especially “Breakfast in Bed,” where Conor Oberst returns the favor to Tamborello (who programmed Bright Eyes’ “Take It Easy”) with another gorgeously intimate warbling romantic lament over a propulsive synth slide.

Most impressive is the organic sense pervading Dumb Luck that extends far beyond the live drums and guitar accompaniment to all of Tamborello’s pulses, blips, bottle taps and jingling keys. The nicest surprise is the cohesion even in the midst of the varying vocalists, something owed entirely to Tamborello’s soulful (yes, really) programming. While electronic music may arguably be the hardest genre in which to establish one’s recognizable identity, Tamborello’s sense of musicianship seems to have sealed the deal.


Wine Tasting

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The story of the vine is a story of human migration. From Gaul to Botany Bay, Vitis vinifera has been planted wherever the shock troops of Western civilization landed. Missionaries brought the good grape along with their good word, followed by ordinary people seeking opportunity. California’s would-be “state grape” (if not for our Austrian immigrant governor’s veto), Zinfandel, arrived anonymously from some European backwater, its name bowdlerized as if by an indifferent ellis island agent and became an iconic equal of the “noble” grapes. Meanwhile, Italians who labored in the vineyards in the 1800s founded their own. even now, local families are realizing the dream, becoming among the first Mexican-American winery owners since General Mariano Vallejo. What’s that, it’s Cinco de Mayo this week? What a coincidence!

It seems like every new winery can disinter some Italian great-grandpa to provide an illusion of hands-in-the-dirt continuity. Robledo Family Winery is the real deal. Reynaldo Robledo Sr. emigrated from Michoacan in 1968 and worked his way up from field hand, eventually founding a vineyard-management company and recently building the winery. A small army of his children run all aspects of the family business, which uses their heritage in a way that’s both proud and savvy.

Yet the empire-building Robledos did not go over the top with their tasting room. Entry is via a plain service door. The middle of the barrel room, where Luis Robledo or his twin brother welcome visitors, is decorated with family portraits and Mexican art. The background music: ranchero, of course. Because of the stool seating, there’s no elbow-war claustrophobia at the bar. a big tour group that arrived before me was safely seated at a table.

The first taste offered is the 2005 Sauvignon Blanc ($16), which is such a delicious standout of ripe melon fruit, finishing sweet and round, that it overshadowed the pleasant and balanced but more neutral-tasting Pinot Blanc and Pinot Grigio. The 2003 Pinot Noir ($32) is made in a tight, fresh style, pomegranate fruit without the tartness. The 2003 Merlot ($29) shows 18 months in American oak, but the wood is saturated in dense, chewy fruit and an intoxicating brandy cordial aroma, while the equally structured 2002 Reserve ($36) is less interesting. The distinctive 2003 Chardonnay ($30) may be redolent of nacho cheese, but it could have been power of suggestion. The 2004 “Los Braceros” Red Blend ($30) is a robust brew of blackberry and parching tannins, demanding the heartiest barbecue available. What about zesty Zinfandel, notable in its absence, typically paired with spicy cuisine? Luis says the Zin’s coming. Mañana.

Robledo Family Winery, 21901 Bonness Road, Sonoma. Tasting room is open daily; Monday-Saturday, 10am to 5pm; Sunday, 11am to 4pm. Tasting fee, $5-$10. on Saturday, May 5, the winery hosts a Cinco de Mayo celebration from noon to 3pm. $40-$55; RSVP required. 707.939.6903. a winemakers diner at Noona’s Bar and Grill follows that night at 7pm. 2233 Larkspur Landing Circle, Larkspur. $85; reservations necessary. 415.464.8711.



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Sand Trap

May 2-8, 2007

In a monster movie, you have to root for whatever has a face. The face you carry out of Spider-Man 3–which features a couple of monsters–belongs to Thomas Haden Church. His Flint Marko is an escaped convict who falls into a particle accelerator and becomes an animated sand heap. He can rise to the size of a small mountain or turn his fist into concrete sledgehammers, and the tabloids call him Sandman.

Wherever he goes, Marko is always trying to warn people not to get in his way or they’ll get hurt. And in his ever-dissolving hand he carries a locket with the picture of his sick child, whom he’s trying to help with the loot from the robberies he commits. These Spider-Man movies used to be proof that you could make a CGI spectacle and not lose the sense of structure; Church is all the structure this movie has, and he keeps going missing.

Spider-Man himself undergoes a transformation; as in Superman III, the superhero turns bad. A bloblike piece of extraterrestrial matter slithers aboard Peter Parker (Tobey Maguire) and makes him vengeful and arrogant; it grows on him and turns his suit black. Where Superman got drunk and flicked peanuts against a bar mirror at supersonic speed, Parker turns bad the way a dweeb might–he combs his hair forward and macks on the girls coming down the street. He flips his hips and rolls his package at them and shows up his poor long-suffering girlfriend, MJ (Kirsten Dunst), with a new girl, Gwen (Bryce Dallas Howard).

All the regulars come back for their usual bits. Director Sam Raimi, a Three Stooges fan, restages a vintage Moe Howard routine with J. K. Simmons as J. Jonah Jameson. This time “America’s most respected newspaper editor” is nursing his blood pressure with a trayful of pharmaceuticals. Rosemary Harris, looking more spry than in the last outing, returns as Aunt May to set Peter on the moral railing off of which he keeps jumping. Discovering that Sandman was the triggerman in the death of Uncle Ben, Peter is swept by vengeance. And so is Harry Osborne Jr. (James Franco), heir to the armory of the Green Goblin. He goes flying, and pretty soon the mixed metaphors do too, as Spider-Man tries to learn not to be bent by revenge while carrying out the vigilante’s trade.

Raimi has claimed he considered breaking this film into two movies, and this rambling story is forced into one but still looks like two. The most extraneous part of the script is an evil man-spider called Venom, a creature who has all of Spidey’s powers, in addition to fangs and claws. Topher Grace plays Eddie Brock, a glad-handing plagiarist photographer who picks up Peter’s alien parasite. Where Peter is a benign spider, Venom is more like a tarantula. He has no aim more ambitious than to kill Spider-Man. There’s rarely a good way to link up a conspiracy of supervillains, but the scene of the Sandman and Venom meeting in an alley is the worst planned of anything in these three movies.

Spider-Man 3 is an anxious film. It tries to top the other two by tripling up the villains, instead of giving us a new facet of Parker. Rather than becoming arrogant and silly, wouldn’t it have made more sense if Parker became a muttering obsessive, brooding over the police scanner?

Spider-Man 3 has heart, yes, but its head is spinning, a sequel deeply confused and finally unnecessary. The climax is a tag-team wrestling match between costumed heroes and villains, with a public cheering on the violence. And here, Church’s solemn grief dissolves; the Sandman turns from a tragic fugitive to faceless flying debris, an image of that sandstorm that still traps our soldiers.

‘Spider-Man 3’ opens everywhere on Friday, May 4.


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Cackling Sonic Emissions

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May 2-8, 2007

Pointy and squawky is what the Brooklyn-via-Ohio trio Pterodactyl are all about, and their name aptly evokes their cackling sonic emissions. Live, Pterodactyl project a jerky energy that’s at once off-kilter and magnetic; they sweat a lot, play fast and trade off vocal duties which run from coyly restrained to screamo. These guys switch without warning but stop on a dime.

Though that intensity doesn’t translate as strongly on their new eponymous CD (issued by Brah, the label curated by fellow Brooklynites and musical soul mates Oneida), it’s still a rewarding listen. “Polio” barrels ahead like a bullet train besieged by robots, though the album’s highlight is its gloriously tense closing song, “Esses,” which creeps along quietly as nonsense lyrics about letters (“I stepped onto esses / Resting on two aitches / Lessons from the exes . . .”) sung in a barely contained whisper, then gains a sinister edge and culminates into an ominous crescendo that threatens to explode but never actually does.

It would be interesting to see Pterodactyl share a bill with Sonoma County’s own Archeopteryx, whose output is even more compact and frantic. It’s not often that you have a musical showdown between two audio assaults named after extinct flying reptile-like creatures; the audience might wind up having seizures! We should perhaps be thankful that thousands of miles separate these two bands.


Conscious Clothing

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May 2-8, 2007

Spring Fashion:

It’s the right size, perfect style, great color and at a rock-bottom price. What could possibly be wrong with this fashion find? Well, where was it made? And by whom? Under what conditions? Out of what types of materials? Those are all questions that Santa Rosa resident Chrissy Kaufman asks before she buys.

“People who really love clothing and love shoes and love makeup need to be the ones who speak up and not fall into [thinking] that you have to walk around in oversized hemp socks to promote earth awareness,” Kaufman asserts. “You can look great and know that you’re spreading compassion and righteousness.”

A jewelry and fashion designer–she co-founded Sunmoon Company of Sebastopol, which contracts directly with Bali craftsman to manufacture jewelry–Kaufman tries to tread lightly in all areas of her life, including her clothing. She looks for tags showing a name or photo of the person who made the item, or labels indicating it wasn’t mass-produced in a sweatshop halfway around the world. She patronizes thrift stores and small boutiques whose owners’ know the origins of their stock, and she makes a lot of her own clothes.

And yet, occasionally, Kaufman will find something beautifully well-made in a chain-owned department or discount store and–despite all her good intentions–she’ll buy it. “Sometimes I’m still just a plain old consumer,” she admits, “and I want something that’s cute.”

Which means having a fashion conscience isn’t an all-or-nothing situation. Even a little bit of awareness can go a long way toward making things better.

“It would make a difference with a capital D if mainstream America was thinking about this,” Kaufman explains. “We can make a huge dent if we were each just a little more careful. There’s tremendous potential for change.”

Awareness of that potential is crucial, says Candi Smucker, co-owner of Baksheesh fair trade stores in Sonoma and Healdsburg (a St. Helena location opens later this month). “Fair trade” means the weavers, seamstresses and others artisans are guaranteed to earn a living wage in their country. Smucker says it’s possible to develop a healthy fashion conscience in small, do-able increments.

“The first step is to just read the label,” Smucker explains. “It doesn’t mean buy it or don’t buy it; it just means educate yourself about where it’s from.”

Next, ask the sales clerk what the company’s policy is on clothing made in a particular country. “The clerk won’t know,” Smucker adds wryly. “If you’re really into it, ask who in the company would know. And if you’re really, really into it, don’t buy it.”

Like Kaufman, Smucker patronizes thrift stores and smaller shops with direct ties to the clothing makers. “That might mean I spend more, like at Silk Moon in Sebastopol, which has beautiful silk pieces from Southeast Asia. For the quality they’re a wonderful bargain.”

She won’t but anything labeled “Made in China,” because the Chinese government doesn’t allow independent verification of workplace conditions. This eliminates more than half the items in most stores. “Shoes are a real problem,” Smucker laughs.

Never buying “Made in China” items may be a symbolic action, but it’s an important one to Smucker.

“Every time I make a purchase, I am contributing to justice–or injustice,” she says. “How I spend my money affects people. That realization haunts me, but I cannot allow it to paralyze me. Instead, it motivates and empowers me to find new ways to make all trade fair trade. If each of us as consumers ask for this, it can happen.”

One of the for-profit companies turning that ideal into a reality is the Santa Rosa-based Indigenous Designs, a pioneering natural-fiber wholesale clothing company that has been offering fair trade, sweatshop-free, organic and sustainable fashions for 14 years. The company works with 275 cooperatives just in Peru alone, and most of the workers are women, says Scott Leonard, the company’s co-founder and CEO.

“It makes such a difference in these people’s lives to be paid fairly and to have part of their destiny, their livelihood in their control,” Leonard says. “People have literally risen out of a poverty situation and are now providing education and a better family life.”

All Indigenous Designs apparel is made of environmentally sensitive or low-impact materials, right down to the natural dyes. The fabric is organically grown cotton blended with quality silks or tencel, a cellulose fiber made with wood pulp from sustainably harvested trees.

“When we set out 14 years ago, we wanted to show that you could do the right thing and still be profitable,” Leonard recalls. “We have been very successful.”

The company’s designs have draped models strutting down New York runways and are available in a number of mainstream catalogues as well as Whole Foods stores from British Columbia to San Diego, and other retailers nationwide.

“We’re in the fashion business,” Leonard says emphatically. “First and foremost, we have to keep our eye on looking good. The days of wearing frumpy organics are long gone. You have to make a clear fashion statement, you need to look good, you need to be comfortable and also be fair-trade and organic at the same time.”

He agrees with Kaufman and Smucker that consumers can make a big difference by simply being more mindful and aware.

“Respect your own purchasing power,” he advises. “It makes such a big difference.”


Crazy for Tryin’

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Among the treasure trove of insanity that is in George Jones’ autobiography I Lived to Tell It All is the County Music Hall of Famer’s open admission that for years he suffered from hearing incessant voices inside his head. Two voices, to be exact: an old man who had no name, and a duck, whom Jones named Deedoodle. The old man and Deedoodle the duck would get in long, vicious arguments, distracting Jones so completely that at one point in 1979, blasted on booze and coke, he sang an entire concert in the voice of Deedoodle the duck.

A live recording is not known to exist, but if so, the Omni Recording Corporation would surely and desperately pay top dollar for it.

Licensing and reissuing classic but way-the-hell-out-there country music is the label’s forte, its maiden release having been a spotlight on Henson Cargill, who drawled not about those country standbys of loose women and lost love but, rather, Adolph Eichmann and the stupidity of the space race. Omni has also recently, and rightfully, honored the demented genius of four-time Grammy-winning gospel singer Porter Wagoner with a collection entitled The Rubber Room: The Haunting Poetic Songs of Porter Wagoner, 1966&–1977. Its title track is a reverb-drenched portrait of Wagoner’s real-life psych ward, built with mirrors and cushions on every surface, a personal sanctuary where his static head noise could be cleared by writing songs of varying lunacy.

Three musically distinct songs are threaded in and out of each other in “George Leroy Chickashea” to create a country-soul powwow hodgepodge that concerns a man who pleads with God to let him die because he is part black; Wagoner even sings a love song to his own bones. But what’s entrancing is Wagoner’s pure sincerity with even the most hermetic material. Alcohol-induced dementia could be to blame, as evidenced by songs like “The Bottom of the Bottle” and “Wino” (the kitschy sound effect of a desperate alcoholic rummaging through trash cans begins and ends the song).

Wagoner is presented on the CD’s cover resplendent in full country regalia in a vibrant blue suit by famed designer Nudie Cohn and sporting a Murray’s Pomade pompadour that could knock over a building. But he’s loosened his tie and, his face covered in sweat, is looking upward with a mixture of captivation and horror on his salted face.

Alcohol was not Wagoner’s only problem in life; many of his trials stemmed from a genuine desire to do good at a time when the country-music establishment refused to recognize his vision. (Wagoner once caused a Southern-conservative ruckus by bringing his friend James Brown along as his guest to the Grand Ole Opry, and he defied gender roles by performing with an all-female backing band.)

But Wagoner’s reputation will probably always be linked to his crumbled relationship with duet partner Dolly Parton, whom he discovered and featured on his long-running TV series, The Porter Wagoner Show—especially since country-music couples, at least before the days of CMT, chronicled their ups and downs on vinyl rather than camera.

After their split in 1974, Parton fought with Wagoner for years over songwriting royalties, but Wagoner’s penchant for songs in which an adulteress ruins a man may hint at some personal tumult as well, an unhinged depression that saw the performer turning over the years more and more to the comforts of religion instead of the stage.

So where is Porter Wagoner now?

The corner of Broadway and Fifth in Nashville is informally known as “Legends Corner.” Within blocks of the Ryman Auditorium, the Ernest Tubb Record Shop, the Grand Ole Opry and the Country Music Hall of Fame, the faces of country-music legends come alive in the intersection’s sculptures and murals. But on a recent visit, the likeness of Porter Wagoner is nowhere to be found. Furthermore, I asked the people passing by here in the very heart of Country Music USA about Porter Wagoner; it only resulted in shrugs and blank stares. The fact that, after a 50-year career and huge success as a gospel singer, “Mr. Grand Ole Opry” is so vastly unrecognized is probably the impetus for his recent signing to Anti- Records, a label that has shown an affinity for forgotten performers of great talent, like Mavis Staples, Merle Haggard and Ramblin’ Jack Elliott.

Wagonmaster, the Anti album due in June, will not top Billboard’s country charts. But with engaging songwriting and with Wagoner in perfect voice, it will at least redeem him from the nutball status so sweetly suggested by The Rubber Room. These days, his insanity has taken form in the guise of different outside characters, most notably the poor songwriter featured in “Committed to Parkview” in a song composed by Johnny Cash in 1981 for Wagoner and immediately lost—until now. In economic rhyme, the tune chronicles the denizens of the mental ward with a sympathy for inmates that is pure Cash; Wagoner delivers it impeccably. Both men had spent time there.

Other mental states abound. “Albert Erving” chronicles a man who keeps a portrait of a nonexistent woman hanging on his wall, and “Be a Little Quieter” is an admonition to imaginary sounds. Both signal an overcoming of whatever anguish dulled Wagoner’s pen throughout much of the last two decades, and, aided by producer Marty Stuart’s top-notch band, the 79-year-old singer sounds more alive than ever. Paced like a stage show, replete with introductions and instrumental breakdowns, Wagonmaster is a hoot of a listen from an American original.

Is Wagoner the craziest of them all? Not by a long shot. Once, while Wagoner was using a bathroom stall, a he felt a hand reach around his groin and yank at his penis, twisting it and pulling it mid-urination. Shocked, he spun around. Who do you think stood before him, fucked up out of his gourd? You guessed it: George Jones.

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