News Briefs

August 8-14, 2007

Roving porpoise

A lot of visitors drive or fly into the Napa Valley, but one recently swam in. From July 30 to Aug. 4, excited onlookers reported a number of startling sightings in the Napa River. Based on a photograph, the Marine Mammal Center in Sausalito confirms that at least one juvenile or small adult harbor porpoise is plying that waterway. Since the cetacean tourist appears calm and unharmed, the marine center has a wait-and-see attitude. “Unless the animal is injured or in distress, we can’t take any action,” explains center spokeswoman Mieke Eerkens. Although river water might not be the ideal environment, harbor porpoises can live in both fresh and salt water. Under federal law, it’s illegal for humans to feed this watery guest or to get closer to it than 100 yards.

Wineries sold

There was a flurry of sales in the wine country at the end of last month. It wasn’t bottles changing hands, either–it was entire wineries, with three major deals in two days. On July 31, the investment firm GI Partners reportedly paid an estimated $250 million for Duckhorn Wine Company, a collection of small estates focused on site-specific wines in the Napa and Anderson valleys. The day before, Chateau Ste. Michelle Wine Company of Washington and Marchese Piero Antinori of Italy partnered to pay $185 million for Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, which made wine-industry history in 1976 when its Cabernet Sauvignon emerged victorious in a pivotal blind winetasting against famed French vintages. Included in the sale are the Silverado Trail winery and more than 150 acres of prime Napa Valley vineyards. Also on July 30, EJ Gallo bought the William Hill Estate and the 45-acre Silverado Bench vineyard for an undisclosed amount.

Water-less lessons

With the state mandating summertime water conservation in Sonoma and north Marin counties, the College of Marin is making an extremely timely addition to its Indian Valley campus: an outdoor Water Management and Education Center. “Indian Valley offers an extraordinary space to teach and demonstrate state-of-the-art-strategies in the design, installation and maintenance of sustainable landscapes and irrigation systems,” says College of Marin president Frances L. White. At the groundbreaking ceremony, officials dug up grass between the Pomo and Miwok buildings. Removing the lawn illustrates a first step in water conservation. This summer, local landscapers had a chance to attend workshops on water efficiency, and in the fall environmental landscape students will survey and work on the site.


Star Light

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music & nightlife |

By Gabe Meline

As the final embers of this year’s Reggae Rising festival burn to ash and as the last guitar upstroke and downbeat bass line ring out over Dimmick Ranch, there’s still plenty of reason–not simply botanical–for reggae fans to stick around Northern California this week. In an unexplainable stroke of the patently absurd, the Twinkle Brothers, a legendary four-decades-deep institution from Jamaica’s shores, were absent from this years’ festival lineup. The oversight of Norman and Ralston Grant, who have recorded over 60 albums with the likes of Lee “Scratch” Perry and Leslie Kong, is somewhat remedied this week in an appearance at the Last Day Saloon in Santa Rosa.

Having emerged in Kingston singing competitions in the early ’60s, just as Jamaica received its independence from Great Britain, the Twinkle Brothers’ sound is charged by the formative years of reggae music; the early soul influence in the Ralstons’ famous harmonies comes from the same sources that elevated the Heptones and the Melodians. But the Twinkle Brothers remained current musically, and by 1982, the year of their famous performance of “When I Threw the Comb Away” at Reggae Sunsplash, they’d formed a powerhouse band, anchored by the 10-ton bass of Derrick Brown and augmented with numerous backup singers (the same group also recorded the Twinkles’ highpoint, Countrymen, in 1980). The alchemy is energizing, and even today, in concert, Norman Ralston is in constant motion, either pacing the stage or walking in place like a stimulated televangelist eager to get his message across.

“Remember, there is not just one type of people in this world,” Ralston said in a recent interview. “It’s a melting pot, so people have to learn to live with one another, with your neighbors and brothers and sisters.” That sounds like perfect advice for a huge festival attended by thousands of people squinting at a faraway stage in the middle of the redwood forest. For the few hundred still in town, the chance to see the Twinkle Brothers in a small club should be a breath of fresh air. Unless, of course, the place is hotboxed.

The Twinkle Brothers perform with Sol Horizon and DJ Bob Slayton this Thursday, Aug. 9, at the Last Day Saloon. 120 Fifth St., Santa Rosa. 9:30pm. $20. 707.545.2343.




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Letters to the Editor

August 8-14, 2007

Tell us more!

I read (Letters, June 27) and I am in responding in kind.

[Regarding water issues surrounding the Green Music Center construction at Sonoma State University], the permit was not drawn for the shallow “de-watering” wells until after we had gone to the Water Quality Control Board and issued a complaint. A hearing was held and an after-the-fact permit was issued.

I did not make a claim that “no permits were issued,” only that the work was started before the permit was issued. And perhaps if the permit process had been done correctly, there would have been a denial of the permit based on the usual things that would be contained in an EIR.

Ms. Grossi’s 500-foot-deep well had its casing collapse at the stated 210 feet.

There is much more about the acquisition of the Green Music Center’s land.

Paul D. Stutrud, Rohnert Park

Le beurre chaud

I read in Petaluma (First Bite, July 25). I ate there 19 years ago and and again in 2007. Both times the chef used salted butter for cooking. Very un-French and a no-no in chef circles. I mentioned this both times to the owner, and he was very curt with me. I will never return.

Pat Goddard, Petaluma

Failure and folly

Now is the time to begin finding candidates to replace California legislators, not extend term limits ( Aug. 1). Our state senators and assemblymembers failed to gather sufficient support to enact a timely budget. Their failure had a domino effect on all of California’s counties, cities and districts, delaying many budgets. Hardships were created for individuals awaiting payments.

These legislators failed to accomplish any competitive re-districting. These legislators failed to adopt or maintain a governmental agency as the single-payer of all Californan’s medical and dental bills. These legislators failed to adopt meaningful corporation reforms. These legislators failed to make eco-fuel available for their eco-friendly government vehicles.

We need to find and elect replacements who also just say no to campaign donations from lobbyists political action committees and unrestrained corporation CEOs.

John Bauer, Martinez

Conspiracy theory

Does anyone else find it strange that traffic camera video of the Minneapolis bridge collapse was made available within hours, yet the traffic-cam videos of the plane striking or flying toward the Pentagon have not been made available for six years?

Willie Davis, Johnstown, Penn.

Back to Us

(June 20) was such a pleasure to put together and was so nicely received by you lovely folks that, hey, we got an actual idea.

Now that green is the new black and we’re all kinda thinking a little tiny bit about not entirely wrecking the planet, it seems like a good time to introduce .

We’ve cleverly titled it the Green Zone–one idea pretty much exhausts us; two is a veritable burden–and it debuts this week by writer Gianna de Persiis Vona. The Green Zone will highlight North Bay people, businesses and organizations that are doing right by the planet. Send notice of all eco-fabulousness to ed****@******an.com, and Gianna will consider its shout-out potential.

In other news, our Ask Sydney column officially retires this week. Not to apply guilt like extra frosting on a 12-layer cake, but Sydney just didn’t get enough letters. We loved Sydney and are sorry to see her go; there are few other places in print where sex and parenting frolicked together so openly.

And in a final flourish, it thrills us to announce that Gabe Meline joins us on staff this week as music editor, taking the dearly missed Brett Ascarelli’s in-house writing gig. Change, as the rumor goes, remains the only constant. Good fun!

The Ed., Entirely Clad in Bamboo


The Byrne Report

August 8-14, 2007

I am pleased to announce that has been selected as one of the 25 most underreported stories in 2006-2007 by Project Censored, headquartered at Sonoma State University. I cherish this award because it means I am doing my job as an investigative reporter. Stories that the mainstream media ignore often reveal truths about our system of governance that editors at corporate daily newspapers work overtime to cover up.

In this case, however, the cover-up was abetted by the editor and publisher of The Nation, Katrina vanden Heuval, after The Nation‘s nonprofit investigative fund had bankrolled my investigation of Feinstein. The story was headed for the cover of that weekly magazine shortly before the 2006 elections when vanden Heuval, a wealthy Democratic Party partisan, spiked it. Subsequently, vanden Heuval wrote an editorial praising women leaders of the newly empowered Democratic Party, mentioning Feinstein on a positive note.

In the kill memo, The Nation‘s investigative editor, Bob Moser, who had worked closely with me on the project, wrote that I had done a “solid job,” but that the magazine liked to have a political “impact,” and since Feinstein was “not facing a strong challenge for re-election,” they were not going to print the story.

Moser claimed the story had no “smoking gun,” which totally amazes me, since I had reported that Michael R. Klein, the vice chairman of Perini Corp., a company owned by Feinstein’s husband, Richard C. Blum, regularly gave Feinstein lists of Perini projects impacted by Senate legislation. As chairwoman of the MILCON appropriations subcommittee, Feinstein regularly vetted and approved Perini’s military construction projects. That gun wasn’t smoking; it was on fire!

Fortunately, the Bohemian and its sister newspapers in San Jose and Santa Cruz had the guts to print (“Senator Warbucks,” Jan. 24). I wrote three follow-ups: , and the nonprofit Sunlight Foundation he set up last year with a $3.5 million donation (“Daddy Kleinbucks,” Jan. 31); of the University of California (“Blum Rap,” Feb. 28); and from the Appropriations Military Construction subcommittee, where she committed her unethical behavior (“Feinstein Resigns,” March 14).

In March, left- and right-wing bloggers by the thousands started calling for a Congressional investigation of Feinstein. Michael Savage and Rush Limbaugh did radio segments on my findings. Because I do not associate with demagogues, I declined to appear on their shows. Fox’s Bill O’Reilly invited me to talk about Feinstein on his show, but uninvited me after I promised that the first sentence out of my mouth would cast Feinstein as a neoconservative war profiteer just like him and his boss Rupert Murdoch.

As the storm of conservative outrage intensified, political reporter Joe Conason of the Nation Institute telephoned and asked to have the sentence thanking the Nation Institute for its funding removed from my stories because, he said, vanden Heuval did not want The Nation brand to be positively associated with Limbaugh. I informed Conason that I am required to credit the Nation Institute under the terms of our contract, period.

After the stories appeared, my editors and I received a stream of threatening e-mails from Klein, who until recently was a partner in the powerful WilmerHale law firm. But since Klein could show no errors of fact in my reporting, we declined his request for a retraction. Soon, the story crested a Google wave of bloggers wondering why the mainstream media was ignoring the Feinstein scandal. In April, two dozen daily newspapers throughout the United States ran a McClatchy wire service article about the blogger tempest. The story observed that no one had found any factual faults in my reporting, but it did not report the details of Feinstein’s conflict of interest.

Consequently, without calling me for comment or finding any errors in my reportage, the liberal group Media Matters attacked me on its website as being a right-wing pawn. I parried Media Matters’ malicious rant with hard facts and the authors were compelled to retract substantial errors of their own.

In April, Code Pink held a demonstration in front of Feinstein’s San Francisco mansion, demanding that she return war profits to the Iraqi people. And on April 30, The Hill newspaper in Washington, D.C., ran an op-ed by a conservative pundit quoting from my story and (unfairly) comparing Feinstein to convicted felon and former congressman Randy “Duke” Cunningham. Shortly thereafter, without contacting me for comment, an employee of the Sunlight Foundation posted a “critique” of my story on the foundation’s website that was loaded with personal insults but contained no factual substance. Not coincidentally, Feinstein’s press office distributes, upon request, an almost identically worded “rebuttal,” which, while citing no factual errors in my reportage, insults my personal integrity. Such “press” additionally does not address the damning fact that after reviewing the results of my investigation, four nonpartisan D.C.-based ethics experts declared that the senator had a serious conflict of interest.

In my original story, I quoted Jennifer Gore, the spokesperson for the Project on Government Oversight (POGO) in Washington, D.C. For attribution to POGO’s executive director, Gore said, “The paper trail showing Sen. Feinstein’s conflict of interest is irrefutable.” But Gore’s comment was made before I found out about Klein’s role. It turns out that POGO receives funding from the Sunlight Foundation. After my article appeared with the damning information about Klein, Gore claimed that she had not said “irrefutable.”

(I offered to give her a copy of the tape recording of our 90-minute interview in which she indisputably uses “irrefutable” and goes on at great length about the egregiousness of Feinstein’s ethics, but she declined my offer.)

On July 1, the Copley News Service reported on the fallout from my story. Seduced by the promise of mainstream coverage for this important story, I walked Copley reporter Marcus Stern through my research document by document. But instead of reporting on Feinstein’s failure to recuse herself from acting on matters that substantially affected her personal wealth, Stern framed his piece in accordance with the spin coming out of Feinstein’s office: that I had accused the senator of feloniously steering contracts to Perini and URS.

That is not what I reported; that is a straw issue created by public-relations experts to confuse people about what was really reported. Somehow, Stern failed to mention Klein’s role in the ethical lapse. Incredibly, Stern concluded that the public record is so “opaque” that “there is little the public can do but trust Feinstein when she denies helping her husband’s companies.” In fact, the record is anything but opaque.

Tom Fitton, president of the conservative group Judicial Watch, agrees. His national organization, which files lawsuits regarding governmental ethic violations, has mounted its own investigation of Feinstein’s conduct using the Freedom of Information Act (FOIA). It takes time and lawyers to pry FOIA documents out of the federal bureaucracy–it is not generally inclined to open its files to the public. I did not go that route in my investigation, relying on more easily accessible public records.

I have suggested that Fitton’s forensic specialists compare the defense contracts that Blum’s companies received through the military construction appropriations process with the forms that the defense department submitted to Feinstein’s MILCON subcommittee as budget justifications. These documents lay out the details of every Perini and URS project that Feinstein approved as chairperson or ranking member of MILCON, and should leave little doubt about what the senator and her MILCON staffers knew and when they knew it.

But I am not going to wager a penny that the mainstream media will give a damn.

or


Earth Tones

August 8-14, 2007


The sea around Antarctica sounds otherworldly, full of the trill of penguins, the gulps and rumbles of seals and the rubbery bumps of glaciers hitting up against each other. The sound of a sunrise at Sugarloaf State Park near Kenwood, on the other hand, is more familiar; even without seeing the sunrise, the singing birds sound like they are welcoming in the new day. In a rainforest in Indonesia, the birds sound spooky as they echo in the distance over the steady quaver of insects.

These are some of the recordings by Sonoman Bernie Krause, a specialist in bio-acoustics who has been recording natural sounds all over the globe for the last 40 years. He owns the largest private collection of these biological symphonies in the world–more than 3,500 hours of it.

Now, his company, Wild Sanctuary, in Glen Ellen is working with Google Maps and Google Earth to allow people to hear sounds from anywhere in the world.

Google Maps is a website that lets users plot out points on a map. Google Earth is a 3D globe that uses satellite imagery and aerial photography to let users zoom close up to any part of the world. With Krause’s sound layering technology, people will not only be able to look at other parts of the globe, they would be able to hear them, too.

“It’s almost scary how Google Earth can evoke the physicality of a place,” says Jim Cummings, executive director of the Acoustic Ecology Institute in New Mexico. “To add an overlay of the voice of a place makes it nearly palpable. My hope is that the sound layer will open people up to the ways different habitats connect to each other.”

So far, Krause has developed a beta version of the layer, which can be tried out at www.wildsanctuary.com. Krause does not yet have an official agreement with Google on the project, although he has their permission to develop his content. If it proves successful, Google may invest in adding a more in-depth sound layer to Google Earth and Google Maps.

“We have no paper contract with them, no formal agreement,” Krause says. “If what we’re doing proves itself and there is visitor interest in this particular component, Google may spend the time and effort to develop the layer to support the audio.”

Krause is also planning to add historical recordings of areas to show how they have changed over time, in part to demonstrate the impact of human behavior on the environment. The soundscape is as much an indicator of environmental damage as the landscape.

“You can record an area for a long period of time and hear the human impact on those environments,” says Krause. “You can hear the difference in an area where there is a lot of selective logging, like the Amazon rainforests, or the before and after of pollution on places like a coral reef.”

Sound can even reveal changes in an area that sight cannot. Take Lincoln Meadow near Truckee, which has been surrounded by logging for the last 15 years. Although it looks roughly the same today as it did before the logging started, the difference in sound is dramatic. Krause’s recording of Lincoln Meadow from 1988 is full of birdcalls and insects. Some 15 years later, all you can hear is water running. The difference shows what the eye does not.

“Through acoustics, you can show how healthy a habitat is,” says Krause. “It’s partly instinctive, but if you really want to crunch numbers, you can do some scientific comparisons having to do with density and diversity. It really does help.”

Scientists are just starting to understand how sound pollution affects nature. One growing concern is how noisy the ocean has become. With the Navy using sonar and all the sounds related to oil and gas exploration, the overall background noise in the ocean is doubling roughly every 20 to 30 years. And while some experts don’t think that it is anything to worry about, others believe the change is affecting sea life. Many creatures use sound to communicate and find their homes–especially whales.

“Whales use sound to navigate,” says Cummings. “They need to be able to hear faint sound. When background noise rises even modestly, it shrinks their communication range significantly. There is a lot of concern among biologists that we are changing the social dynamics of the whales this way.”

It’s not just the environment that’s suffering. As the soundscape get increasingly shrill, humans suffer too, often without realizing it. Most people learn to ignore the constant sounds around them–the TV, the traffic, the phone, the mp3 player. Tuning this noise out may become a matter of habit, but it still increases stress and disturbs our sense of peace.

This is especially true in the United States. North America, Krause says, is the noisiest place on the globe. In his 40 years of collecting sound, some 40 percent of the natural soundscapes he has recorded have gone extinct, replaced by more urban sounds.

Krause hopes is that by adding soundscapes to Google Earth, people will become more aware of the noises around them, and may even seek out some of the natural sounds that we can so easily ignore.

“All the noise we create obliterates the sounds that can really make us feel good about being here,” Krause says. “All the insects, birds and mammals–things that are life-supporting instead of stress-creating.

“No culture is as noisy as North America, and no culture has as many prescriptions for Prozac as North America.”

Listen up at www.wildsanctuary.com.


Wine Tasting

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This is a tale of two tasting rooms. To say that the Marin County wine industry is the underdog of the North Bay is to overstate both industry and underdog. It’s less than fledgling ’round Fallon; only nascent in Nicasio. A few winemakers are enticed by the limited quantity of cool climate Pinot Noir, but the county’s cows won’t give up turf to grapes any time soon. Good news for cheese eaters. Just two tasting rooms have regular business hours, and to continue last week’s discussion, Marin is two for two in the “just folks” column. One’s in town, the other in the country–for tasting-on-the-fly during either a 101 corridor drive-through or a Tomales Bay joyride.

Ross Valley Winery is in a vintage building in downtown San Anselmo. Proprietor Paul Kreider is a Bay Area native, apt to point out the water line from the last big flood, and not a hard seller for his collection of eclectic wines. He runs the winery as a local community of sorts, holding winemaker dinners and wine classes, and bottling and picking parties. Grapes are sourced mainly from outside the county, with exceptions like the unoaked, lemon-lime-butterscotchy 2004 Stubbs Vineyard Chardonnay ($20). His Red Hill Blend ($12.95) is a simple, cherry-berry thirst-slaker for tonight’s pasta. He’ll cautiously dig up a Marin Cab from under the counter, while his 2003 Carneros Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve ($45), made from 53-year-old vines–yeah, Carneros Cab–is pretty soft, with blackberry and dried cherry notes.

All it takes to find Pt. Reyes Vineyard, apparently, is a vague recollection that it should be around here somewhere, and wouldn’t it be a nice bookend to the afternoon drive? Somewhere between Pt. Reyes Station and Marshall, up it pops on Highway 1. Old barrels and Champagne racks line the drive up; two sleepy hunting dogs half-waggingly welcome visitors. The display of Grateful Dead-themed wines on the back wall are more for collecting than for quaffing.

It was a good call for owners Steve and Sharon Doughty to focus on making sparkling wine. After all, they’ve only been able to make estate Pinot Noir still wine twice in 11 years. The property also encompasses the Pt. Reyes Vineyard Inn, currently closed for renovation. What at first appeared to be a hot tub–Marin, baby–in the midst of the complex turns out to harbor a few koi in its cool green water.

The nonvintage Marin County Blanc de Blanc ($24) is a methode champeniose-style sparkler made from estate grapes. The 1992 Late Disgorged Brut Cuvée ($40) shows more unique character, containing an earthy, cheese bouquet–pair it with blue cheese made by their next door neighbors? If you’re curious about hard-to-find Marin Pinot, they’ve got a 2002 Estate Pinot Noir ($40) and 2002 Marin County Pinot Noir ($30). Also: 10 vintages of Cabernet Sauvignon from a warm spot in Terra Linda.

If continuing on north along Highway 1, consider this: What might go best with fresh oysters? Or barbecued-on-the-half-shell oysters with garlic, butter and herbs? Oysters and Champagne, now you’re living. Fire up the hot tub if you’ve got it.

The Ross Valley Winery, 343 San Anselmo Ave., San Anselmo. Open 1pm to 7pm, Tuesday-Sunday. 415.457.5157. Pt. Reyes Vineyard, 12700 Hwy. 1. Tasting room open 9am to 5pm, Saturday-Sunday. 415.663.1011.



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SlowComa

The Sonoma Valley is in many ways a land unto itself, with its own traditions and its own pace of life. Locals often jokingly refer to it as the island of Sonoma. Teens and others who yearn for a more exciting existence term it SlowNoma; a young woman recently visiting from L.A. dubbed it SlowComa. For those who prefer life lived in the slow lane, the Island of SlowComa offers several special places where the emphasis is on good food, good service and laid-back comfort.

First up is the Place de Pyrenees, a narrow, brick and stone tiled alleyway just off the east side of the Sonoma Plaza. Recently under new ownership–longtime owners Rose and Larry Murphy retired and sold the place to two loyal customers who plan few changes–Murphy’s Irish Pub (464 First St. E., Sonoma; 707.935.0660) is a great hangout spot whether it’s just to kick back with a draft of Guinness at one of the more than a dozen outdoor tables, grab a group of friends to compete in one of the pub’s weekly trivia contests or tuck into a plate of first-class fish and chips, nibble some popcorn chicken, imbibe one of a variety of international beers or savor some shepherd’s pie. Like the Irish pubs it’s modeled after, this place is a community focal point, offering comforting pub grub for lunch or dinner, lively conversations, literary events, live music Thursday-Sunday evenings and more.

Just across the Place de Pyrenees’ cobbled alleyway is Taste of the Himalayas (464 First St. E., Sonoma; 707.996.1161). This tiny spot was Murphy’s original home, but several years back when Murphy’s moved to larger digs across the alley, Taste of the Himalayas moved in. Since then locals and lucky tourists who discover the place have been enjoying its fresh naan bread, momo dumplings, samosas, curries, tandoori and other delicious examples of the cuisine of Nepal and Tibet.

It’s well and good to talk about hidden gems, but sometimes hiding in plain sight works best. Witness the Breakaway Cafe (19101 Sonoma Highway, Sonoma; 707.996.5949), housed in a former big-chain coffee shop in the front of Maxwell Farms shopping center on Highway 12, at the edge of town of Sonoma. One of the owners of a Sonoma Plaza retail store cheerfully refers inquiring tourists to all sorts of restaurants around the Plaza, but she never mentions the Breakaway. That’s because it’s for locals, and she doesn’t want to share. The emphasis is on home-style food in a relaxed atmosphere, with great service and reasonable prices. A popular morning favorite is La Bamba: eggs scrambled with jack cheese and tortilla chips, served on black beans and salsa ranchera. And there’re always the specials. On a recent morning, these included prawn quesadillas or upside-down banana and blueberry pancakes.

Welcome to some of the hidden gems on the island of SlowComa–getaways inside a getaway.



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Quick dining snapshots by Bohemian staffers.


Winery news and reviews.


Food-related comings and goings, openings and closings, and other essays for those who love the kitchen and what it produces.


Recipes for food that you can actually make.

News of the Food

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“Ninety-eight percent of what’s built today, my colleagues and I wouldn’t consider architecture,” said Frank Gehry, looking seriously up through his glasses. “I’m making an honest attempt to build something that is uplifting and that contributes to the well-being of society. Something you can learn from.” Dressed all in black and seated on a chair in a cavernous industrial building at St. Helena’s Hall Winery last Friday, Gehry, 78, didn’t look a day over 58 and certainly didn’t seem to mind the electronica music of the rave-style party simmering around him at 10:30 in the morning. Winery staff poured rosé while black-clad waiters passed canapes. The party was to celebrate Gehry’s contribution to the Hall Winery, a new tasting room and public area that the Halls hope will be complete by 2010.

Most renowned for his Museo Guggenheim Bilbao and for L.A.’s Disney Concert Hall, Gehry chuckled when reminded of all the fuss that Craig and Kathryn Hall’s neighbors along Highway 29 have kicked up over his proposed design. “They launched a fatwa against me in the press,” he smiles, referring to the Spanish opposition to his curvy design for Bilbao. “And now I have a key to the city.” In deference to the neighbors, however, Gehry’s proposed buildings have been moved farther onto the Hall’s property to dissuade driving gawkers. The visitor center and tasting room, the models for which the Halls are displaying to the public while construction commences, is a glass box replete with an indoor glass elevator and a second-floor glass tasting balcony. The reporter squinted outside. By 11am, it was a good 90 degrees at the Hall Winery on this late July day. How to keep such an incinerator cool for guests?

“The trellis,” Gehry said shortly, clearly tired of repeatedly explaining his vision to those less acute. Indeed, the lattices are the distinctive feature of Gehry’s design, which he says is intended to mimic the natural swoop of the surrounding landscape. To be made of either wood or a new-fangled concrete–tests on the concrete are still underway–the trellis will cover the glass box of the tasting room like the lattice top of a berry pie that the chef was too hasty to fully pat down.

Ground was broken, more wine was drunk, Margrit Mondavi exerted her considerable charm and the Halls thanked the 300 or so people gathered for coming. Clasping her hands together, Kathryn Hall movingly related what a thrill it is to have the world’s most famous architect create a building for her family. As an ending note, Gehry praised Napa Valley’s natural beauty. “I just don’t want,” he grinned, “to screw it up.”



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Quick dining snapshots by Bohemian staffers.


Winery news and reviews.


Food-related comings and goings, openings and closings, and other essays for those who love the kitchen and what it produces.


Recipes for food that you can actually make.

Telling It Like It Is

Road Shows

August 1-7, 2007

OK, this is real obscure, but do you remember the kerfuffle over Craig Bierko’s portrayal of Max Baer as an evil murderous boxer in Ron Howard’s Cinderella Man? What about the blink-and-you’ll-miss-it way that Howard tipped us off that Baer used to fight wearing a Mogen David on his trunks? Well, once upon a time there were more than a few Jewish Brooklyn and Lower East Side boys who went in for boxing. The San Francisco Jewish Film Festival brings in one of them in for the fest’s local stand at the Rafael Film Center.

Orthodox Stance (screening Aug. 4 at 12:15pm) concerns the real-life junior welterweight Dmitriy “Star of David” Salita, a Russian immigrant and Orthodox Jew. “Religion was not created for people not to take advantage of their talents,” Salita told Haaretz.com. “I have the talent of boxing, and the fact that I’m an observant Jew does not diminish that.” Observing the Sabbath, Salita has been known to say, “Anyone who wants a good whuppin’ from me is just going to have to wait until sundown.”

Orthodox Stance—along with an ancient Edgar Ulmer/Slapsie Maxie Rosenbloom picture retrieved from the vaults and screened at the Castro during the main part of the festival—made the press go for the two-fisted angle when writing up this year’s SFJFF. But by the time this road-show fest gets to San Rafael, it will include a more hard-hitting roster of women’s pictures.

Take the three-day fest’s closer, Three Mothers (screening Aug. 6 at 6:30pm), about Jewish triplets from Alexandria. Named for flowers, their ways have gone wayward ever since the key moment of their life, when they were blessed in their cradles by King Farouk himself. (That kleptomaniac. If Farouk counted the baby’s toes, they should have counted them again after he left.) Much Israeli 1960s pop singing (great) and mama-drama (not so much so) leavens this crowd-pleaser, which was nominated for nine Israeli Academy Awards and has been knocking around the local film-fest circuit with the persistence of a bill collector.

By contrast, Gorgeous! (screening Aug. 4 at 6:30pm), following a group of glamorous Sephardic women in modern-day Paris, sounds trifle-icious and awfully much like a Parisian-Jewish version of Sex and the City. Aviva My Love (Aug. 4 at 8:30pm) is Shemi Zarhin’s Israeli hit about the sorrows of Aviva (Asi Levi), who has an unemployed husband, a nagging mom, a demanding job, two adolescent kids and the longing to write on top of it all. When her talent is nurtured by a professional writer, Aviva begins to suspect that his interest may be in more than what she puts to the page.

Sweet Mud (Aug. 6 at 6:30pm)—vey iz mir, that title. It must be much better than it sounds, since it happened to win this year’s Grand Jury Prize at Sundance, where writer and director Dror Shaul was first invited to develop the project at the institute’s prestigious directors and screenwriters lab. Shaul’s memory piece is like many Israeli memoirs today, a reaction to the conformity and coldness of the kibbutz—in particular, the problem of a traumatized widowed mom, trying to hold her own against the social pressure of the Utopians around her.

Director Rachel Talbot, who produced the film version of the ’70s Hollywood survey Easy Riders, Raging Bulls, makes her directorial debut in Making Trouble (Aug. 5 at 4:30pm). This is a study of female Jewish comics that begins with still-remembered Yiddish film star Molly Picon as well as Streisand avatar Fanny Brice, Sophie Tucker and Joan Rivers. Talbot studies entertainers who died too young, such as Wendy Wasserstein (The Heidi Chronicles) and Gilda Radner, as well as the up-and-coming female comedians Judy Gold, Jackie Hoffman, Cory Kahaney and Jessica Kirson have lived to fight another day.

The 27th annual San Francisco Jewish Film Festival lands at the Christopher B. Smith Rafael Film Center Saturday-Monday, Aug. 4-6. Other films Aug. 4 include ‘Knowledge Is the Beginning’ (2pm) and ‘Hot House’ (4:30pm). Aug. 5, ‘So Long Are You Young’ and ‘Ezekiel’s Wheels’ (12:15pm), ‘The Longing: The Forgotten Jews of South America’ (2:15pm), ‘My Fuehrer: The Truly Truest Truth About Adolf Hitler’ (6:30pm) and ‘Bad Faith’ and ‘A Kiss Is a Kiss Is a Kiss’ (8:30pm). 1118 Fourth St., San Rafael. 415.454.1222. www.sfjff.com.


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