SlowComa

The Sonoma Valley is in many ways a land unto itself, with its own traditions and its own pace of life. Locals often jokingly refer to it as the island of Sonoma. Teens and others who yearn for a more exciting existence term it SlowNoma; a young woman recently visiting from L.A. dubbed it SlowComa. For those who prefer life lived in the slow lane, the Island of SlowComa offers several special places where the emphasis is on good food, good service and laid-back comfort.

First up is the Place de Pyrenees, a narrow, brick and stone tiled alleyway just off the east side of the Sonoma Plaza. Recently under new ownership–longtime owners Rose and Larry Murphy retired and sold the place to two loyal customers who plan few changes–Murphy’s Irish Pub (464 First St. E., Sonoma; 707.935.0660) is a great hangout spot whether it’s just to kick back with a draft of Guinness at one of the more than a dozen outdoor tables, grab a group of friends to compete in one of the pub’s weekly trivia contests or tuck into a plate of first-class fish and chips, nibble some popcorn chicken, imbibe one of a variety of international beers or savor some shepherd’s pie. Like the Irish pubs it’s modeled after, this place is a community focal point, offering comforting pub grub for lunch or dinner, lively conversations, literary events, live music Thursday-Sunday evenings and more.

Just across the Place de Pyrenees’ cobbled alleyway is Taste of the Himalayas (464 First St. E., Sonoma; 707.996.1161). This tiny spot was Murphy’s original home, but several years back when Murphy’s moved to larger digs across the alley, Taste of the Himalayas moved in. Since then locals and lucky tourists who discover the place have been enjoying its fresh naan bread, momo dumplings, samosas, curries, tandoori and other delicious examples of the cuisine of Nepal and Tibet.

It’s well and good to talk about hidden gems, but sometimes hiding in plain sight works best. Witness the Breakaway Cafe (19101 Sonoma Highway, Sonoma; 707.996.5949), housed in a former big-chain coffee shop in the front of Maxwell Farms shopping center on Highway 12, at the edge of town of Sonoma. One of the owners of a Sonoma Plaza retail store cheerfully refers inquiring tourists to all sorts of restaurants around the Plaza, but she never mentions the Breakaway. That’s because it’s for locals, and she doesn’t want to share. The emphasis is on home-style food in a relaxed atmosphere, with great service and reasonable prices. A popular morning favorite is La Bamba: eggs scrambled with jack cheese and tortilla chips, served on black beans and salsa ranchera. And there’re always the specials. On a recent morning, these included prawn quesadillas or upside-down banana and blueberry pancakes.

Welcome to some of the hidden gems on the island of SlowComa–getaways inside a getaway.



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Telling It Like It Is

News of the Food

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“Ninety-eight percent of what’s built today, my colleagues and I wouldn’t consider architecture,” said Frank Gehry, looking seriously up through his glasses. “I’m making an honest attempt to build something that is uplifting and that contributes to the well-being of society. Something you can learn from.” Dressed all in black and seated on a chair in a cavernous industrial building at St. Helena’s Hall Winery last Friday, Gehry, 78, didn’t look a day over 58 and certainly didn’t seem to mind the electronica music of the rave-style party simmering around him at 10:30 in the morning. Winery staff poured rosé while black-clad waiters passed canapes. The party was to celebrate Gehry’s contribution to the Hall Winery, a new tasting room and public area that the Halls hope will be complete by 2010.

Most renowned for his Museo Guggenheim Bilbao and for L.A.’s Disney Concert Hall, Gehry chuckled when reminded of all the fuss that Craig and Kathryn Hall’s neighbors along Highway 29 have kicked up over his proposed design. “They launched a fatwa against me in the press,” he smiles, referring to the Spanish opposition to his curvy design for Bilbao. “And now I have a key to the city.” In deference to the neighbors, however, Gehry’s proposed buildings have been moved farther onto the Hall’s property to dissuade driving gawkers. The visitor center and tasting room, the models for which the Halls are displaying to the public while construction commences, is a glass box replete with an indoor glass elevator and a second-floor glass tasting balcony. The reporter squinted outside. By 11am, it was a good 90 degrees at the Hall Winery on this late July day. How to keep such an incinerator cool for guests?

“The trellis,” Gehry said shortly, clearly tired of repeatedly explaining his vision to those less acute. Indeed, the lattices are the distinctive feature of Gehry’s design, which he says is intended to mimic the natural swoop of the surrounding landscape. To be made of either wood or a new-fangled concrete–tests on the concrete are still underway–the trellis will cover the glass box of the tasting room like the lattice top of a berry pie that the chef was too hasty to fully pat down.

Ground was broken, more wine was drunk, Margrit Mondavi exerted her considerable charm and the Halls thanked the 300 or so people gathered for coming. Clasping her hands together, Kathryn Hall movingly related what a thrill it is to have the world’s most famous architect create a building for her family. As an ending note, Gehry praised Napa Valley’s natural beauty. “I just don’t want,” he grinned, “to screw it up.”



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Road Shows

August 1-7, 2007

OK, this is real obscure, but do you remember the kerfuffle over Craig Bierko’s portrayal of Max Baer as an evil murderous boxer in Ron Howard’s Cinderella Man? What about the blink-and-you’ll-miss-it way that Howard tipped us off that Baer used to fight wearing a Mogen David on his trunks? Well, once upon a time there were more than a few Jewish Brooklyn and Lower East Side boys who went in for boxing. The San Francisco Jewish Film Festival brings in one of them in for the fest’s local stand at the Rafael Film Center.

Orthodox Stance (screening Aug. 4 at 12:15pm) concerns the real-life junior welterweight Dmitriy “Star of David” Salita, a Russian immigrant and Orthodox Jew. “Religion was not created for people not to take advantage of their talents,” Salita told Haaretz.com. “I have the talent of boxing, and the fact that I’m an observant Jew does not diminish that.” Observing the Sabbath, Salita has been known to say, “Anyone who wants a good whuppin’ from me is just going to have to wait until sundown.”

Orthodox Stance—along with an ancient Edgar Ulmer/Slapsie Maxie Rosenbloom picture retrieved from the vaults and screened at the Castro during the main part of the festival—made the press go for the two-fisted angle when writing up this year’s SFJFF. But by the time this road-show fest gets to San Rafael, it will include a more hard-hitting roster of women’s pictures.

Take the three-day fest’s closer, Three Mothers (screening Aug. 6 at 6:30pm), about Jewish triplets from Alexandria. Named for flowers, their ways have gone wayward ever since the key moment of their life, when they were blessed in their cradles by King Farouk himself. (That kleptomaniac. If Farouk counted the baby’s toes, they should have counted them again after he left.) Much Israeli 1960s pop singing (great) and mama-drama (not so much so) leavens this crowd-pleaser, which was nominated for nine Israeli Academy Awards and has been knocking around the local film-fest circuit with the persistence of a bill collector.

By contrast, Gorgeous! (screening Aug. 4 at 6:30pm), following a group of glamorous Sephardic women in modern-day Paris, sounds trifle-icious and awfully much like a Parisian-Jewish version of Sex and the City. Aviva My Love (Aug. 4 at 8:30pm) is Shemi Zarhin’s Israeli hit about the sorrows of Aviva (Asi Levi), who has an unemployed husband, a nagging mom, a demanding job, two adolescent kids and the longing to write on top of it all. When her talent is nurtured by a professional writer, Aviva begins to suspect that his interest may be in more than what she puts to the page.

Sweet Mud (Aug. 6 at 6:30pm)—vey iz mir, that title. It must be much better than it sounds, since it happened to win this year’s Grand Jury Prize at Sundance, where writer and director Dror Shaul was first invited to develop the project at the institute’s prestigious directors and screenwriters lab. Shaul’s memory piece is like many Israeli memoirs today, a reaction to the conformity and coldness of the kibbutz—in particular, the problem of a traumatized widowed mom, trying to hold her own against the social pressure of the Utopians around her.

Director Rachel Talbot, who produced the film version of the ’70s Hollywood survey Easy Riders, Raging Bulls, makes her directorial debut in Making Trouble (Aug. 5 at 4:30pm). This is a study of female Jewish comics that begins with still-remembered Yiddish film star Molly Picon as well as Streisand avatar Fanny Brice, Sophie Tucker and Joan Rivers. Talbot studies entertainers who died too young, such as Wendy Wasserstein (The Heidi Chronicles) and Gilda Radner, as well as the up-and-coming female comedians Judy Gold, Jackie Hoffman, Cory Kahaney and Jessica Kirson have lived to fight another day.

The 27th annual San Francisco Jewish Film Festival lands at the Christopher B. Smith Rafael Film Center Saturday-Monday, Aug. 4-6. Other films Aug. 4 include ‘Knowledge Is the Beginning’ (2pm) and ‘Hot House’ (4:30pm). Aug. 5, ‘So Long Are You Young’ and ‘Ezekiel’s Wheels’ (12:15pm), ‘The Longing: The Forgotten Jews of South America’ (2:15pm), ‘My Fuehrer: The Truly Truest Truth About Adolf Hitler’ (6:30pm) and ‘Bad Faith’ and ‘A Kiss Is a Kiss Is a Kiss’ (8:30pm). 1118 Fourth St., San Rafael. 415.454.1222. www.sfjff.com.


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Tough Row to Hoe

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August 1-7, 2007

From the crest of a small incline at the edge of a field, verdant rows of radicchio, spinach, cilantro and kale line up, knitting the fertile earth with their tender roots. Beyond this field are groves of trees, and then more acres of farmland, which stop only at the edge of the expanse of the Pacific Ocean. Here at Route 1 Farms, where due reverence is given to harmony and diversity, it is hard to imagine a life more peaceful or purposeful. But it is a life of service and dedication, and a hard life for many.

In his 26 years as a farmer, Jeff Larkey has scrimped, sweated and performed virtual magic to make Route 1’s finances work each year. He’s never received the kind of government assistance that, say, corn farmers in Iowa get; the Farm Bill, a $200 billion&–plus piece of legislation that lumbers through Congress every five years, has bypassed fruit and vegetable farmers like him each time while doling out billions to commodities growers. So Larkey’s managed on his own.

Self-sufficiency is an admirable trait, but over the years advocates of small family farms and “specialty crops”—bureaucratese for fruits and vegetables—have begun pushing for changes in the Farm Bill and the food system overall, arguing that the current system is unfair not just to small farmers or growers from California but to everyone who eats.

This year, for the first time, the change could start to happen. In the coming days, the House of Representatives will take up the 2007 Farm Bill, a version of which passed in committee last month. The $280 billion bill approved last week by the House includes a lot of big-ticket items, including the food stamp program, but tucked into it is a provision that never before existed: $1.6 billion worth of mandated government spending on the promotion, marketing, research and growing of fruits and vegetables over the next five years.

The bulk of farming subsidies—$40 billion in the version passed last week—goes to commodity growers who farm just five crops: corn, soy, wheat, rice and cotton, with corn being the largest. The effect these have on the environment and human health is serious and getting worse. In the aisles of the grocery chains, one finds that the majority of food offered is highly processed, preserved, high in fats, sugars and calories, and endowed with scant nutritive value—and most contains some form of commodity byproduct such as corn syrup. Ultimately, the people who end up eating the most of these government-subsidized commodity crop byproducts are children and the poor.

Ironically, while the USDA places a heavy emphasis on fruits and vegetables in the diet, and California produces over 50 percent of the nation’s specialty crops, the state’s growers have typically received less than 5 percent of all agricultural subsidies.

In response to a growing sense of crisis in public health and in farming, a number of advocacy groups—including the Community Alliance for Family Farmers (CAFF)—banded together under the umbrella of the California Coalition for Food and Farming (CCFF). The CCFF has been pressing for fundamental changes in the Farm Bill to address such concerns as conservation, support of local food movements, nutrition programs, organic farming support and subsidy reform. So far, progress looks mixed on the group’s ambitious agenda.

Kari Hamerschlag, a policy analyst for the CCFF, says that while this version of the Farm Bill is an improvement over previous iterations, any reports of victory are highly exaggerated.

“A lot of headlines are touting what a great thing this is for California, and it’s overstated,” she says. “Specialty crop groups and legislators are trying to paint this as a big win for California, but it’s just a drop in the bucket. If you look at the overall Farm Bill, where the bulk of it is going, we have $40 billion that is still going to commodity payments. And so when you put that in perspective, it’s still incredibly imbalanced.”

Hamerschlag rattles off some other disappointing outcomes: The CCFF asked for $25 million in mandatory funding each year to promote farmers markets; the committee mandated $5 million, with a bump to $10 million in a few years. The group wanted $60 million for a value-added producer grant program to help small farmers turn their peaches into peach jam, for example; the program got $20 million. The Organic Transition Program, which helps conventional growers make the move into organics, got no mandated funding at all; neither did the Community Food Project Grant Program, in which fresh foods are delivered door-to-door in low-income communities to improve nutrition and give small farmers a new market.

And the list goes on.

Many remain very disappointed by one aspect of the Farm Bill headed now for the Senate: its approach to conservation. Good ecological practices all require more labor and therefore a financial commitment that many farmers are not able to meet. Stewardship programs designed to compensate farmers for good practices have been written into the Farm Bill since 1985. But without mandatory funding, they’re susceptible to cuts each year.

Stewardship programs are not just underfunded; they’re oversubscribed. In 2004, three out of every four farmers and ranchers applying to participate in Farm Bill conservation programs were rejected due to lack of funds, according to the Sustainable Agriculture Coalition.

The demand is clearly there, so the current version of the Farm Bill retains conservation programs. But it shifts resources to big livestock farmers and away from specialty crop farmers.

Judith Redmond, co-owner of Full Belly Farm in Yolo County and president of the CAFF, sees something she likes in this Farm Bill, and it’s not what one might expect to hear from an organic farmer with sterling lefty credentials. She likes the fact that it relies on market forces.

“You could look at this as one step away from those traditional subsidies where the check goes directly to the farmer, and instead what they’re trying to do is encourage the public to perhaps eat more California fruits and vegetables using various mechanisms,” Redmond says. “The important programs in this $1.5 billion try to build the market for those crops, which is in some ways a much healthier way to support those fruit and vegetable farmers. It’s indirect, but it doesn’t make those farmers welfare recipients. Those farms have to sink or swim on the basis of their quality.”

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Wine Tasting

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This is a tale of two tasting rooms. To say that the Marin County wine industry is the underdog of the North Bay is to overstate both industry and underdog. It’s less than fledgling ’round Fallon; only nascent in Nicasio. A few winemakers are enticed by the limited quantity of cool climate Pinot Noir, but the county’s cows won’t give up turf to grapes any time soon. Good news for cheese eaters. Just two tasting rooms have regular business hours, and to continue last week’s discussion, Marin is two for two in the “just folks” column. One’s in town, the other in the country–for tasting-on-the-fly during either a 101 corridor drive-through or a Tomales Bay joyride.

Ross Valley Winery is in a vintage building in downtown San Anselmo. Proprietor Paul Kreider is a Bay Area native, apt to point out the water line from the last big flood, and not a hard seller for his collection of eclectic wines. He runs the winery as a local community of sorts, holding winemaker dinners and wine classes, and bottling and picking parties. Grapes are sourced mainly from outside the county, with exceptions like the unoaked, lemon-lime-butterscotchy 2004 Stubbs Vineyard Chardonnay ($20). His Red Hill Blend ($12.95) is a simple, cherry-berry thirst-slaker for tonight’s pasta. He’ll cautiously dig up a Marin Cab from under the counter, while his 2003 Carneros Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve ($45), made from 53-year-old vines–yeah, Carneros Cab–is pretty soft, with blackberry and dried cherry notes.

All it takes to find Pt. Reyes Vineyard, apparently, is a vague recollection that it should be around here somewhere, and wouldn’t it be a nice bookend to the afternoon drive? Somewhere between Pt. Reyes Station and Marshall, up it pops on Highway 1. Old barrels and Champagne racks line the drive up; two sleepy hunting dogs half-waggingly welcome visitors. The display of Grateful Dead-themed wines on the back wall are more for collecting than for quaffing.

It was a good call for owners Steve and Sharon Doughty to focus on making sparkling wine. After all, they’ve only been able to make estate Pinot Noir still wine twice in 11 years. The property also encompasses the Pt. Reyes Vineyard Inn, currently closed for renovation. What at first appeared to be a hot tub–Marin, baby–in the midst of the complex turns out to harbor a few koi in its cool green water.

The nonvintage Marin County Blanc de Blanc ($24) is a methode champeniose-style sparkler made from estate grapes. The 1992 Late Disgorged Brut Cuvée ($40) shows more unique character, containing an earthy, cheese bouquet–pair it with blue cheese made by their next door neighbors? If you’re curious about hard-to-find Marin Pinot, they’ve got a 2002 Estate Pinot Noir ($40) and 2002 Marin County Pinot Noir ($30). Also: 10 vintages of Cabernet Sauvignon from a warm spot in Terra Linda.

If continuing on north along Highway 1, consider this: What might go best with fresh oysters? Or barbecued-on-the-half-shell oysters with garlic, butter and herbs? Oysters and Champagne, now you’re living. Fire up the hot tub if you’ve got it.

The Ross Valley Winery, 343 San Anselmo Ave., San Anselmo. Open 1pm to 7pm, Tuesday-Sunday. 415.457.5157. Pt. Reyes Vineyard, 12700 Hwy. 1. Tasting room open 9am to 5pm, Saturday-Sunday. 415.663.1011.



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Hits and Miss

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August 1-7, 2007

Every Tuesday marks not only the arrival of new releases in record stores, but the arrival of the weekly All Music new releases e-newsletter. As a music critic, I enjoy looking over this list of new albums because it reminds me of how many current bands I’ve never heard of, as well as how many long-established artists I know nothing about.

But the list is inevitably frustrating, because half of the new releases are, upon closer examination, actually reissues of old albums or repackaged anthologies of once-obscure recordings or anticlimactic greatest hits collections. Dabblers, rejoice: this summer, your wait for Lil’ O’s Greatest Hits, the Monster Magnet 20th Century Masters: Millennium Collection and yet another The Best of Air Supply is over.

Knowing that Monster Magnet have been around long enough to earn a greatest hits package by default makes me feel old, which generates the majority of my greatest hits resentment. Otherwise, I like greatest hits collections; they are the single-serving cereal box variety packs of the music world—colorful samplers for day-trippers, toe-dippers and the generally clueless, and they make life easier, though not necessarily more rewarding.

Sooner or later, musicians ranging from massively influential to marginally successful come out with greatest hits discs. These releases create not only another way for record companies to make money from music that’s just sitting around fully formed; it’s also a handy way for unsure would-be fans to get a feel for a band without getting overwhelmed, plunking down $100 to acquire a box set or risking the crapshoot of blindly selecting a dud of an album (imagine exploring a curiosity about Neil Young by purchasing, say, Trans).

What is a hit, anyway? The most severe definition is a song whose massive popularity was such that it scored a spot on the Billboard chart. Thus, Foghat’s Greatest Hits could conceivably be a single with “Slow Ride” on one side and “Slow Ride” on the other.

Just for fun, I counted the number of greatest hits packages in my collection of CDs; their percentage was far from small. I currently own two greatest hits each by Loretta Lynn and the Monkees, and three by Gordon Lightfoot. The majority, though, are long gone, cassette tapes that are either mildewing in Mom and Dad’s basement or just plain evaporated into the ether of youth. Ownership of such collections are (or, by now, were) nearly rites of passage; how else do you account for The Eagles: Their Greatest Hits (1971-1975) being the third bestselling album of all time?

(Ramones Mania is likewise indispensable. I own all of the albums the Ramones ever recorded, but I still enjoy listening to Ramones Mania, which, in 30 songs arranged in seemingly random order, tidily outperforms other, more inclusive Ramones collections.)

The weakness of greatest hits is that they inevitably wind up under-representing at least one aspect of a musician’s career. The trusty All Music e-newsletter announced Social Distortion’s Greatest Hits several weeks ago, an event that made me simultaneously nostalgic and miffed. Social Distortion have been around for nearly 30 years, and the band’s Greatest Hits collection offers 10 songs. That’s a paltry 3.33 songs per decade! And there’s only one selection from their career opus, Somewhere Between Heaven and Hell, one of the best rock albums of the 1990s. This is not a matter of opinion. By law, a greatest hits collection by any nonsucky band should have at least 20 songs on it.

Greatest hits do well for artists whose careers were built on the strength of singles rather than albums, which was rather typical of pop music before the late 1960s. Despite my own great fondness for Herman’s Hermits, I must admit that owning their greatest hits and nothing else will get you by in life just fine—unless there’s a life-altering forgotten fluke of a song buried far too deep in the Herman’s Hermits canon for a casual, barely committed half-fan to discover.

And that’s the rub of greatest hits—you never know what you are missing. An obsessive collector might see greatest hits as a populist waste of time, but if you think about it, it’s the greatest hits that are elitist—they only include the hits! And how can you have a greatest hits of Elvis? The Beatles? Billie Holiday? Johnny Cash? And, by now, Mariah Carey? These people are just too damn popular, with too much longevity, to whittle down to 10 or 12 or even 20 songs. Monster Magnet, maybe not so, but they are all now neighbors in the land of greatest hits—and as long as people still buy recorded music and a Billboard chart still exists, they will have plenty of company.


Letters to the Editor

August 1-7, 2007

Fair Unfair?

Each year, Sonoma County Democrats sponsor a booth at the Sonoma County fair to register citizens to vote, provide information about candidates for public office and share our political beliefs with anyone interested. Volunteers from our party travel from throughout the county to staff the booth in Grace Pavilion and have open and honest communications with fairgoers.

But each year, these volunteers are harassed or intimidated by certain fair employees who disagree with our opinions. They are often subjected to demands to remove certain bumper stickers from view or to not hand out bumper stickers at all. Some fair managers have personally threatened to remove self-deemed objectionable bumper stickers or even close down our booth should we not comply.

However, our Republican counterparts seem free to display and distribute controversial material with such offensive slogans as “Ted Kennedy’s Car Has Killed More People Than My Gun” at their booth just two rows over from the Democratic Party site.

Democrats alone should not be subjected to the thought police of the county fair and their hypocritical application of rules to exhibitors. Fair officials need to apply these standards equally to all exhibitors, and not favor one political affiliation or set of beliefs over another.

Terry Allan Elverum, Sonoma County Democratic Central Committee

Let the Fur Fly

Our agency has a front row seat to see the revolving door of recidivism and its effects on the community. Hence, our mission statement: “To break the cycle of crime, violence and delinquency in our community.”

Two local children are accused of having set a trapped kitten on fire. The kitten was given a second chance and a name, Adam. The two children have names, faces and life stories—just like Adam does. We do not know what the two children’s stories are, and yet we imagine they could be trapped in difficult circumstances themselves. Picture what might be the hurts, frustrations and disappointments that underscore the lives of any young people who cause lethal harm to innocent and helpless victims.

Clearly, here is an opportunity for our partnerships to offer healing for the cause of the condition rather than seek vengeance for its symptoms. Our community has the tools to train these children to see themselves and other beings in a nonviolent, more compassionate light. It does not make sense to bind ourselves to the concept of retribution when, in truth, rehabilitation can be more productive. The children should be given a second chance, also.

Kate Jenkins, executive director, Friends Outside In Sonoma County

Yow

When was the last time Sara Bir actually wrote about something relevant to the North Bay? More and more I feel like I’m reading a 14-year-old girl’s Myspace blog ( July 18). I hear more about her boyfriend or eating habits than about anything going on locally. Does this belong in the local arts and entertainment category? What a waste.

Gerry Stumbaugh, Santa Rosa

Double Yow

I rarely write to a publication, but you bring out the critic in me. Your article about Barry Eisler ( July 18) was the poorest excuse for front-page coverage I have ever read. When you choose a topic or personage, think about the many people who will pick up the paper for no other reason than to learn something. It seemed like an interesting article to me, one at least warranting the paper I would be disposing afterward, but I was wrong. Not only was the article boring, but the last line said it all: “If I hadn’t been born, these books would never have been written. And that’s a great feeling.”

What, Barry? To have been born? I wouldn’t call this printable. At least not in my book!

Carolyn Robbins, San Rafael

Strangely, we welcome letters extolling all the many different ways in which we suck, particularly when we agree upon the odoriferous whiff of suckiness. Close readers saw that we apologized for in the July 18 issue (Table of Contents). Summer doldrums and took their terrible toll that week. We’ll try not to suck so bad in the future!


Diaspora

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August 1-7, 2007

In 2001, six men gathered together around the fire of a refugee camp in the West African Republic of Guinea to make music together. Their home of Sierra Leone had been torn apart by civil war, their lives displaced, their future uncertain. They began playing instruments, channeling their experience into song and singing together under an evening sky: “You left your country to seek refuge in another man’s land . . . / Living like a refugee / Is not easy.”

So begins the debut album from Sierra Leone’s Refugee All-Stars, Living Like a Refugee, and it’s a thrilling moment for the listener; on the album, actually recorded in the camp, one hears the chirping of a cricket and the indistinct background sounds of night. The music is damn good, and those with no available space next to their copy of Paul Simon’s Graceland should start clearing the shelf; Living Like a Refugee covers the gamut from reggae, juju, dancehall, hip-hop and folk, often blurring the genres and emerging with a disc that’s fresh and, considering the circumstances of its inception, actually quite fun.

The Refugee All-Stars, a widely acclaimed documentary film about the group’s courage and determination gained through music to overcome the frontline atrocities of war, comes out on DVD this month, but the All-Stars have been touring extensively throughout the world and, lucky for us, stop by Petaluma in an exclusive Bay Area appearance this Friday. In the past year, the group have been featured on NPR’s Talk of the Nation and, in one of modern music’s weirder collaborations, teamed up with Aerosmith to record “Give Peace a Chance” for the smash-hit Instant Karma: The Amnesty International Campaign to Save Darfur CD. But the best way to experience the Refugee All-Stars’ tales of strife and redemption is in person, as multiple singers and dancers recount a life that hardly any of us could imagine living.

Sierra Leone’s Refugee All-Stars perform on Friday, Aug. 3, at the Mystic Theatre. 23 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma. 9pm. $20. 707.765.2121.


White Shark Autumn

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August 1-7, 2007


Life in the food chain gets boring when you’re king. We’ve got a world of lesser beings to cook for dinner, but we’re simply starved for danger and run-ins with carnivores. That’s why we like to imagine that we live in a world of monsters. We raise hype over mountain lions in the suburbs, bears in the vineyards, coyotes in the city and killer bees in the air—and it’s so thrilling to imagine that all of them want to devour us.

But the most enduring of our imagined enemies may be the great white shark, Carcharodon carcharias, the star of Jaws and the aggressor in nearly every serious shark-human encounter recorded in California.

White sharks have killed 10 people in the state since 1900: four in the 1950s, three in the 1980s, one in the 1990s, and two in the new millennium. Just over a hundred unprovoked attacks were reported during the 20th century along the West Coast. The conclusion? The ocean is a safe place to pass the hours. Still, the hype created when a shark attacks a person—like that of the kayaker bitten on the bow of his boat two weeks ago off the San Mateo coast—far surpasses that of all the car deaths, gun deaths and nicotine deaths that can fit into a busy California afternoon. Shark attacks awe some people and terrify others, and for some, they even fire up the urge to go swimming—in a cage, that is.

“I hate to say it, but it’s often when the first attack happens that our season starts,” says James Moskito, expedition leader with Shark Diving International, an Emeryville-based service that leads boat trips to the Farallon Islands, where clients enter the water in shark-proof cages to enjoy a close-up view of one of the most notorious predators in the world. Several companies in California operate in this small niche of “adventure” tourism. Equipped with 50- to 100-foot-long cruisers furnished for luxury, these companies take paying customers from around the world on one-day or multiday trips to various shark holes. Most notable are Isla Guadalupe, 160 miles off the coast of Baja California and accessible to the port of San Diego, and our own Farallon Islands, 26 miles west of Marin and world-famous for its high density of white sharks, which gather there to feed on California sea lions and elephant seals.

Shark Diving International leads cage-diving trips aboard the 56-foot Superfish during the autumn months, when white sharks gather most densely at the guano-covered archipelago. Chumming—dispensing blood and flesh into the water to attract sharks and other fish—was banned in California waters several years ago, largely due to the complaints of surfers, who feared that the activity could spark higher levels of aggression in sharks and incite them to attack when they otherwise wouldn’t.

The crew of the Superfish resorts to using a decoy to gain the attention of the sharks. At a slow putter, they drag a hemp-fiber bundle fashioned to resemble a sea lion behind the boat, and most days it draws one or more sharks into the vicinity of the boat. When a shark is spotted following the decoy, the motor is cut and the crew deploys several floating cages into the water. The clients, in wetsuits, hop into the open hatches while a crew member pulls the decoy still closer toward the boat, bringing the shark with it and giving customers the sight of a lifetime: an adult white shark appearing out of the blue gloom and passing just yards away, at ease in its own element. The water at the Farallons offers an average visibility of 20 feet—though it may be as clear as 50—and even those onboard the boat may get a stellar view of the big fish.

“Our hope through doing this is that people will gain an appreciation of the sharks and the lives they lead,” says Moskito. “If we educate people, then the more involved they’ll be in white shark protection. You can’t protect something if you know nothing about it.”

Shark Museum Massacre

Researchers believe with good evidence that white sharks are extremely susceptible to overfishing. One of the clearest textbook cases of overexploitation comes from 1982 at the Farallon Islands, where a commercial fisherman named Mike McHenry, gutting fish after a day’s work, found himself in the company of several large sharks. McHenry put aside his fillet knife and went promptly to work. He rigged up his hydraulic winch with a cable and a sturdy baited hook and proceeded to haul in five adult white sharks in a single evening.

“The observed number of attacks on pinnipeds at the Islands dropped off the charts,” says Burr Heneman, director of Commonweal, an organization in Bolinas dedicated to the health of humans and of wild ecosystems. Years passed before the rate of attacks on pinnipeds returned to normal levels. “That was a pretty good indication of their vulnerability.”

McHenry never sold the sharks, but instead froze them with the plan of establishing a brilliant shark “museum.” John McCosker, chair of aquatic biology with the California Academy of Sciences and a white shark researcher since 1978, visited the super-cooled facility during the filming of a BBC documentary shortly after McHenry landed the sharks.

“It was heartbreaking,” McCosker recalls. “There they were, propped up and hanging from the ceiling. It was unbelievable. I understood where he was coming from—he was a commercial fisherman—but you realize walking into a scene like that, all the ecological damage that was done; it wasn’t just a few dead fish. It trickles way down the food chain, and for years to come. It broke my heart.”

In 1993, conservationists pursued legislation to protect white sharks by law from fishermen. Surprisingly, those who statistically faced the greatest danger of being attacked by or otherwise interacting with white sharks—Northern California surfers, recreational SCUBA and breath-hold divers and commercial urchin and abalone divers—supported the measure most vehemently, while divers and water-goers in Southern California expressed on the whole far less interest in prohibiting the killing of white sharks.

“That was interesting, seeing who wanted to protect the sharks and who didn’t,” says Heneman. “Generally, people who were most likely to encounter them were the most supportive, and there was a really dramatic geographic break between Northern and Southern California.”

Crazy Like the Fox

Such data demonstrates that white sharks, for all their power, teeth and potential danger, inspire a curious camaraderie between themselves and the people who spend time in the water with them. Australian Rodney Fox survived one of the world’s most publicized and horrific shark attacks in 1963 while spearfishing off of Aldinga Beach, south of Adelaide. Today, he is an active shark conservationist and one of the great white shark’s better friends in the world. Fox was attacked from below and behind near the end of a breath-held dive. The great white bit him around the torso and dragged him underwater before releasing him and allowing the bleeding and internally wounded diver to struggle to the surface. A boat took him to shore and surgery a short while later saved his life. Doctors believe Fox’s wetsuit helped keep him in one piece during transport. The photos of the massive, bleeding underarm wound and the subsequent semicircular healed scar—with its 462 stitch marks—are among the most famous and memorable in shark-attack image galleries.

“After the attack, I decided I wanted to go have a look at the sharks and see for myself if I could go back in the water,” Fox recently recalled by phone from his home Down Under. He went snorkeling just three months after the attack. “I saw lots of glimmering, imaginary sharks coming at me from all directions.”

Obviously still shaken, Fox took to diving with an explosive-tipped spear and killed a few small sharks with the weapon. “I was keen to prove to myself that I could overcome these animals,” he says.

In 1965, Alf Dean—then a world-famous shark hunter and fisherman—and photographer Ron Taylor invited Fox and two other well-known shark-attack survivors, Henri Bource and Brian Rodger, on a fishing-filmmaking expedition. For the multiday occasion, Fox designed and built the first shark cage, and he, Bource and Rodger would use it to get a face-to-face view of the animal that had nearly killed each of them earlier that decade. In the meantime, Dean reeled in shark after shark on his heavy fishing tackle, and Fox remembers with repulsion the blood and gore that accumulated on the deck of the boat.

“We chummed up a bunch of sharks and he reeled in five between 11 and 15 feet. There was nothing to it. They didn’t jump or fight. It was like pulling in a dead cow, and I remember asking Alf, ‘Well, now what do we do with them?’ He said we could each have a jaw or some teeth, and then they were to be just dumped back in the water. I looked around and thought, ‘There’s just got to be a better way to get to know these creatures.'”

So Fox pushed the shark-cage concept and turned it into a business and a personal conquest. He went on to regain his own trust of the sea and of sharks while leading thousands of people on extraordinary shark-viewing excursions in Australia and South Africa. Fox, in fact, led the early-1990s campaign in Australia to protect great whites from hunters. He has meanwhile participated in the making of over a hundred films and documentaries about great whites, and in more ways than one, Fox would not be who he is today without the great white shark.

Tons of Fun

Sportfishing for these animals is now illegal virtually everywhere, but it was once big business in ports like Montauk, Long Island, Durban, South Africa, and many towns in Australia. The activity gained popularity in the 1950s as boat captains took paying customers to sea, spilled a few barrels of pulped whale flesh into the water, strapped their clients into fighting chairs and hooked them into the biggest fish of their lives.

In 1933, a 998-pound white shark landed in New Jersey was recorded as the largest fish ever landed on rod-and-reel. Author Zane Grey set his own record in 1936 with a 1,036-pound tiger shark caught near Sydney. The records accelerated as fishermen refined their techniques and equipment. From the Atlantic to the Pacific to the Indian Oceans, anglers targeted white sharks, bettering each other as they hit the 1,500- to 3,000-pound marks. Eventually, in 1988, the notorious captain Frank Mundus of Montauk hooked a client into a 3,427-pounder, still considered one of the largest fish ever landed with a rod and reel, though the record books discount it on a line-weight technicality. Beyond the rod and reel, the largest great white ever measured came from Cuba. It was caught in 1945 using a bait-rigged oil drum left floating at sea overnight. The big fish was 21 feet long and reportedly weighed over 7,000 pounds.

South Africa, all of Australia and much of the Eastern Seaboard now prohibit the take of white sharks both commercially and recreationally, and the impact that the era of great white sportfishing had on the global population is unknown. California’s own protective measure went into effect on Jan. 1, 1994, when great whites were granted a several-year hiatus from persecution. Three years after that initial passage, the fine print was modified to forever protect the species in state waters, which are estimated to support just several hundred great white sharks, according to Heneman. Population estimates, however, are not easily determined.

“This isn’t a schooling fish,” says the Academy of Science’s McCosker. “They don’t come up to breathe like gray whales. We unfortunately know very little about them and we have almost no idea how many are in the ocean.”

White Shark Cafe

Markings on white sharks’ dorsal fins distinguish the fish from one another in the same way that fingerprints are unique to individual people. Using close-up photos of sharks’ dorsal fins, California researchers with the nonprofit Tagging of Pacific Pelagics (TOPP) project are hoping to produce an accurate regional population estimate.

TOPP is simultaneously involved in a long-term shark-tagging program. Salvador Jorgensen, a research associate with the Monterey Bay Aquarium and Stanford University, and Barbara Block of Stanford University are currently leading the endeavor. Using satellite tags implanted with a harpoon into the base of the sharks’ dorsal fins, Jorgenson and Block have tagged over 90 white sharks off the Northern California coast since 1999. The tags remain embedded in the fish for 30 to 90 days, recording each shark’s movements and activity, before breaking off and floating to the surface where they can be retrieved. The researchers have discovered that California’s great whites very predictably linger for the late summer and fall around pinniped rookeries, such as those at Año Nuevo, the Farallons and the Point Reyes National Seashore, before departing and traveling 2,000 miles southwest to a relatively featureless swath of ocean between Baja California and Hawaii. Dubbed the “white shark cafe,” this region may serve as a breeding ground or a feeding ground; researchers don’t know.

“We call it the ‘white shark cafe’ because we are still not sure if they go there to find some food or perhaps find a mate,” said Jorgensen. “A cafe is somewhere you might go to do either.”

During their cross-ocean forays, the sharks frequently make descents to more than 1,500 feet beneath the surface, though the researchers do not know why. The sharks remain at the “cafe” for several months before coming straight back to California, often returning to the exact same rookeries year after year. Studies in the southern hemisphere have observed similar migration patterns. One individual was tracked swimming between South Africa and Australia in the course of a year.

Since 1969, scientists with the Point Reyes Bird Observatory (PRBO) have perched on the summit of the Farallons’ Southeast Island, studying the water with binoculars. From there, they have observed annual shark-pinniped predatory interactions at a rate of a dozen to over 50 per season. The frequency of attacks increased throughout the 1970s and 1980s, possibly in response to increasing marine mammal populations, but on occasion, following the killing of a shark at the island (usually by a fisherman, though orcas killed a 12-footer in 1997), decreased attack rates have followed. Concerned that pinniped populations could rise out of control if great whites vanished from state waters, the PRBO helped lead the way toward the species’ protection.

Meanwhile, just yards away, entrepreneurs in the cage-diving business work their own gig of introducing landlubbers to the thrill of great whites. However, companies like Shark Diving International, which boasts a trip success rate of 85 percent, walk a fine line between education and entertainment, and not everyone agrees with the merits of the local cage-diving business.

“I think everyone ought to do it at some point, because it’s such a wonderful experience,” says McCosker. “But not here. Not at places like the Farallon Islands, where there’s a long-term study in progress. There’s been such an investment of time in understanding the behavior of sharks here in their natural habitat, and it’s so important not to interfere with that. If people want to dive with sharks, the best thing to do is go to Guadalupe Islands off of Mexico or to South Africa. Thank goodness chumming has been banned, but towing around different shapes behind the boat to attract sharks is likely affecting the sharks’ behavior.”

Commonweal’s Heneman agrees.

“I think it’s unfortunate that there’s this conflict among people who all love these sharks. The problem is, there’s at least 25 years of research data out there when the sharks were not being influenced by people. Now that they are being influenced by people, we still don’t necessarily know how the diving may affect the sharks.”

But Moskito sees the business as an important form of public exposure.

“We are totally pro-shark. If we knew this kind of activity hurt sharks in any way, we’d stop. Basically, we just want to take people out and together enjoy this part of nature. We hope that we’re only helping to improve the public image of sharks.

“Anyway,” he adds, “researchers use shark decoys just as much as we do.”

All parties in this fairly lighthearted dispute are, at least, friends of the shark, and no biologist will deny that cage-diving is 10 steps up in sophistication from the thrill-seeking business of white shark sportfishing.

“We know so much better now that there really is no excuse anymore for that kind of behavior,” McCosker says.

By-catch in commercial industries still impacts white sharks, and this biggest of predatory fish still winds up in shark fin soup. Many experts believe that, while possibly declining, great white populations worldwide are in better shape than in the days of rampant recreational fishing, yet a population estimate is likely a long way off as research groups continue to gather data.

“It seems that in California their numbers are increasing,” says Heneman. “We base that simply on the number of attacks observed on seals and sea lions at places like the Farallons. Otherwise, we don’t know much about them except that there aren’t a lot.”

Moskito, who suspects that great whites are very slowly disappearing, says that nearly every shark he has observed at the Farallons has been an adult of 12 to 18 feet. Only on rare occasions do small ones appear. Those rare babies are the thrill of the season.

“The big sharks are amazing things, but I get more and more excited these days about the small sharks. It’s like, ‘Wow! These guys are reproducing. They’re surviving out there!'”

For information on cage-diving expeditions with Shark Diving International, visit www.seesharks.com.


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