Fly

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12.26.07

There’s a prevailing notion among artists, actors and musicians that creative control is always something to be strived for —that the men in suits will rape your art and force it into a commercialized bastard child of nothing you ever originally envisioned in the first place for the big corporate bucks that ride passenger seat with pandering to the dumbest common denominator.

And then there’re people like R. Kelly, who prove these whiny artists totally wrong.

R. Kelly has complete creative control over anything he does, and, man, is that a terrible, terrible thing. Not because he’s allowed to be crass about sex or make 83-minute-long narrative music videos —that’s all well and good. It’s that he has no idea how to present his talent to the general public, a fact that was painfully evident when his Double Up tour stopped at the Arco Arena in Sacramento on Dec. 16.

I saw over 150 shows in 2007, and R. Kelly’s was the most maddening. The concert could be called “poorly paced,” but that’d be missing the point. It was actually, and utterly, unpaced. Kelly performed only snippets of songs for two hours, ignored some of his key hits, paraded through delusional theatrical scenarios and showed prerecorded videos on the jumbotron. I repeat: He did not sing any of his songs all the way through.

The first 20 minutes of the show were spent starting and then almost immediately stopping at least 10 songs, after a flashy walking-though-the-crowd entrance that promised oh-so-much more. It would set the tone for the night: “Hey, man, I got so many songs, I just gotta stop ’em all after the first verse and make some dumb comments about how great I am and then start up another.”

Some songs were obviously lip-synched, and an unsettling percentage of the show was represented in video form only, like “Strip for You,” with a fake silhouette video of Kelly stripping while the CD track blared. At one point, prerecorded testimonials from Common, Snoop Dogg and T-Pain gave props while Kelly was off somewhere, not singing his songs. The jumbotron, in fact, was the only place we ever saw Kelly’s biggest hit, “I Believe I Can Fly,” and even then it played just four lines of the chorus —which, come to think of it, is probably more than we would have gotten had he butchered it onstage.

No, the glut of Kelly’s time was spent instead acting through an incomprehensible series of grandiose and expensive spectacles that fell far short of being spectacular: a long jungle-drum segment where Kelly was slowly and unrealistically captured by scantily clad women and transformed into the King of the Jungle; a strange call-and-response with the crowd about wanting their money back; and an absurd sketch of Kelly conducting, in a white suit and tails, Beethoven’s Fifth Symphony in front of an oversized music stand while laser beams and live white doves soared around the arena.

Surely, someone needs to rope the guy in. A manager, a concert producer, a man in a suit who wants to take away his creative control —I say bring it on. Someone who will sit him down and say, “All right Kells, look: You done got yourself drippin’ with talent and flush with cash. Don’t squander it parading around like a 12-year-old. I’m gonna map out a show for you, and it’s gonna involve singing your songs.”

But performing is the last arena of the music industry where talent is at least partially required. If people like R. Kelly show the world that you can put on a show without singing complete versions of any of your songs, then we might as well pay $81.50 plus a $7 convenience fee and a $3.50 handling fee and a $1.50 processing fee to see a light show and an electronic box and the “band” who makes an appearance onstage so we can all say we saw them.

Oh, right —that was Daft Punk’s tour.


News Briefs

12.26.07

Drunk Driving Alert

Heads up: it’s DUI season. Don’t drive while under the influence, and keep a vigilant watch for the folks who do. The statistics aren’t good. There were 16,885 alcohol-related fatalities nationwide in 2005. That’s an average of one every 31 minutes.

And as many a grieving family member can attest, it’s not just the drunken driver who gets injured or killed in a crash. While it’s important to be judicious about your own actions —it’s simple, never imbibe and drive —you also need to be on special alert for other folks who have taken in just a little too much holiday cheer and have no business being behind the wheel of a motor vehicle.

More than 30,810 people were injured in DUI crashes throughout California in 2005, with 1,574 fatalities —up about 8 percent from the 1,462 DUI deaths the previous year. Marin County saw six alcohol-related deaths in 2005, with 184 injuries and 1,557 DUI arrests. For Napa County, the count was seven fatalities, 173 people injured and 1,002 drivers nabbed on DUI charges. Sonoma County recorded 28 DUI-crash fatalities, 482 related injuries and 2,990 arrests.

In what’s become a modern-day holiday tradition, 14 law agencies in the nine-county Bay Area are coordinating a massive year-end crackdown on drunken drivers, with sobriety checkpoints and intensive patrols until Jan. 1. “We’re going to be enforcing, enforcing, enforcing —doing everything we can to keep the public safe,” says Mike Davis, public information officer for the CHP’s Golden Gate Division.

There are good reasons to want to avoid DUI charges —between 5,200 to 10,000 good reasons. That’s what the CHP estimates the average California DUI costs, $5,200 to $10,000, once you add up fines, court assessments, vehicle towing and storage, auto insurance premium increases, DUI classes, attorney fees and more.

It’s also a good idea to call 911 to report a potential drunken driver when you spot someone driving erratically. And it’s a good idea to stay off the roads, if possible, when other drivers may be impaired.

Between 11pm and midnight in 2005, CHP records show that there were 164 DUI injuries and 13 related deaths on Monday nights; for the same period on Wednesdays, it jumped to 253 injured and 14 dead; and it jumped on the weekends, with 520 injuries and 24 deaths between 11pm and midnight on Fridays, and 595 injuries and 32 deaths on Saturdays.

The numbers jump even higher for the 2am to 3am slot, with 212 injuries and seven deaths on Mondays, compared to 826 hurt and 49 dead at the same time on Saturdays.

Be careful out there


Buy Nothing Month

12.22.07

O ne story leads to another in the green world. So it comes as no surprise that my investigations into the darker side of holiday shopping led me from the nationally known Rev. Billy and his Church of Stop Shopping (now the documentary subject of What Would Jesus Buy? ) to a North Bay anti-shopper named Terra Freedman, who tells me about a revolutionary named Lew Brown. From Brown, I learn there is more to the stop shopping movement than I could possibly have visualized even under the most paranoid of conditions.

Some may recall a national shopping boycott in April of 2006, and most have heard of Black Friday, the day after Thanksgiving, known across the country for being the heaviest shopping day of the year. But how many know that from Black Friday until the New Year, conscious consumers are partaking in the Great Shopping Boycott of 2007? This does not mean buy nothing; it means buy local, buy mom ‘n’ pop, buy fair trade and, most importantly, buy less .

Terra Freedman, whom I interview over the phone, is an active citizen, who, after becoming concerned with corporate takeovers, began to curb her own shopping habits. Freedman stresses that the stop shopping movement is about starting your own scene. This is a DIY revolution based on the belief that we are drowning ourselves with our insatiable desire for things . There is no one to follow but oneself, and Freedman’s self led her to the downtown Santa Rosa mall on Black Friday, where, with about a dozen friends and some home-made signs, Freedman handed out flyers printed from the BuyNothingChristmas.org website, which declared, “Have Less, Live More,” “Santa Came, Jesus Wept” and “Define Necessity” with photos of a new SUV on one side and starving children on the other.

After talking with Freedman, I contact Lew Brown, designer of the WeAreNotBuyingIt.org website, and an innovator behind the stop shopping movement. Brown tells me that activity for “undermining the economy” can be considered a terrorist act; he talks about martial law, global domination and an undermining vampiric corporate atmosphere indicative of the corporate global control currently in effect. There was a time when violent force was the way the oppressed conquered their oppressors. Brown and other shopping-boycott activists across the world believe that time has passed, and that we now have a much more powerful and effective weapon: our money.

This is not just about overcoming consumerist tendencies, nor is it just about human rights or environmental atrocities; this is about oppression on a global scale. When I was in high school, “Buy American” was a slogan of right-wing conservatives. Now, liberals and conservatives are beginning to unite in reaction to the dire consequences of out-sourcing and globalization. We all want to buy American because, at this point, it’s not a matter of patriotism, it’s a matter of survival.

Brown says that the corporation’s job is to make money for its shareholders, and that these shareholders represent that mythical 1 percent of the population who own most of the world’s wealth. Brown points out that we are often quick to refuse homeless people a dollar, assuming they will do something to hurt themselves with it (like buy booze), and yet we will just as quickly turn around and purchase something with that same dollar that has a long and bloody trail of harm attached to it.

Like Terra Freedman, Brown stresses the fact that we need to engage this movement on a personal level. Too many progressive movements are destroyed by a “white knight,” the savior who will pull the organization forward, and good ideas can become too easily co-opted and destroyed. Rather than follow, Brown believes, we need to take responsibility on an individual level, discovering ways to participate in the movement and to spread the word.

My final question to Brown is simple and perhaps a little bit desperate: Why would anyone do this? Why don’t the 1 percent care? Brown says that very wealthy people can live very insulated lives, that they operate on global abstractions and that they have no real contact with the rest of us and therefore no basis for understanding.

Later, when I find myself at the mall, I remember Brown’s words of wisdom and am struck by the sinking realization that on an ethical level, I am hardly any different than a wealthy corporate shareholder. I buy things that I know hurt others, and yet continue to do so because I live a very insulated life. The pain of my fellow humans, the death of the planet? To me, it’s clearly just an abstraction.

For more information on the shopping boycott go to www.wearenotbuyingit.org. For more information on the Christmas boycott and alternative gift giving go to www.buynothingchristmas.org.


News Briefs

12.19.07

Let There be Lights

A Dillon Beach family is quietly resisting a homeowner association’s order to remove the single strand of Christmas lights outlining their Marin County coastal home. Chris and Larry Grace and their six-year-old daughter, Alegra, say they’ll take down the lights the day after Christmas and not before. But association officials say that rules have been in place for two decades: outdoor lights for safety or security but not for holiday decoration. A neighbor’s complaint triggered the request that the Graces remove their holiday lights. The issue will be discussed at the association’s January meeting.

Back to School for Tigger

A lawsuit sparked in part by socks bearing the cartoon image of Winnie the Pooh’s Tigger character has been settled by mutual consent, with the Napa Valley Unified School District agreeing to create an “opt out” provision for any future school dress code. The district will also pay the $95,000 attorneys’ fees incurred by the five families (representing six students) who brought the suit, as well as the district’s own costs (not yet tallied) for outside legal services. The six students’ records will be expunged of any dress-code violations. The lawsuit challenged Redwood Middle School’s longtime “appropriate attire policy” limiting students to eight specific solid colors in cotton twill, chino or corduroy. The plaintiffs argued that this was in fact a public school uniform, which under state law must have an “opt out” clause. “We didn’t have any objection to a dress code that complied with the statutory criteria, but they went beyond that,” explains plaintiffs’ attorney Sharon O’Grady.

Monte Rio Sewer Stopped

The Sonoma County Permit and Resource Management District (PRMD) is recommending against a controversial plan to build a sewer system in Monte Rio, because the estimated price tag jumped from $11.2 million in 2003 to more than $20 million today. “Construction costs have increased dramatically to the point where we no longer have adequate funding to move the project forward,” explains PRMD director Pete Parkinson. The proposed sewer plant would have served 586 residential and commercial properties, at an annual cost of $1,200 each. Opponents argued that the system was too costly, would encourage development and wasn’t needed. Monte Rio resident Bruce Maher wants the county to conduct studies to see if failing Monte Rio septic systems really are causing poor water quality in the lower Russian River, as the county claims. “Without knowing where the problems are, we’re chasing our tails,” Maher asserts.


Shop Talk

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12.19.07

The whole idea of holiday gift-giving is about generosity and love and sharing, but somehow, every year, the arrival of December fills millions of Americans with dread and loathing. Shopping for gifts shouldn’t be a pain, but sometimes it is.

I know, because I’m a retail sales associate. A lot of the frustration that customers feel comes from unrealistic expectations they place on themselves and on the people helping them. But it does not have to be that way. Here are some helpful tips from behind the counter to keep your mad dashes of consumerism running stress-free.

Rude customers get made fun of The main source of a sales associate’s glee is not the incessant bleat of cheery Christmas Muzak or the misbehaving of young scamps as they systematically destroy carefully constructed displays. Nope, it’s obnoxious customers. Every second an associate spends away from customers’ earshot is devoted to bilious venting (“That Cuisinart lady sucks” ) and the feverish recounting of bad customer horror stories (“She made me call three other stores to ask if they had the Wilton giant cupcake pan when I told her over and over that it’s sold-out nationwide and the only place to get it is eBay”).

The underpaid and undervalued must derive merriment where they can, and often it is in mythologizing the assholery of unreasonable customers. If you are OK with being the person about whom the staff creates a derogatory nickname, then go for it. Be a dick.

Kids are cute, until they are not Negligent parents, know this: Every time your back is turned and your slobbery child inserts store merchandise into her bratty maw, little daggers emerge from our eyes, and they are aimed at you. The things we sell are not teething rings, and they are especially not trial teething rings. If your kid uses half the store as her pacifier, then have the decency to buy what she destroyed with her gross germy kid saliva.

Seasonal staffers are sometimes crazy At a larger store, up to half of the sales associates may be seasonal, only working at the store during the holiday period, after which they will resume their studies, parenting, art career, drug habit, what-have-you. They may not know where everything is or have the answers to ridiculously detailed questions about store merchandise. But they should be able to locate an associate who does know.

Every batch of seasonal staff has its rotten apples—people who don’t work full-time, permanent jobs because no sane employer wants to have them around that long. Just hope they don’t wind up helping you.

It’s just stuff, and we’re not indentured servants If you have a lot of disposable income and you love to be waited on and shop mainly for the experience of dominating another person’s time with pointless questions and contrarian blather, then go ahead and spend your money on stuff you won’t use. It pays my bills, but guess what? I don’t respect you or your brand-new $3,500 automatic coffee center. Somewhere out there is a customer who’s normal and pleasant and will spend just as much money as you do, and I’d rather be helping her.

Your money is your power Bad customer service exists. When you walk into a store—especially one that sells expensive items—you should be greeted within two minutes, if not immediately. If you ask for help, you should get it in a timely manner. If you have to wait longer than you’d like, an associate should politely and patiently check in with you and explain what the holdup is.

If your needs as a customer are not being met, then don’t spend your money at that store. Is a holiday present worth being ignored or sneered at by surly staff? Shopping should be fun at best and tolerable at worst. It shouldn’t be torture, and it shouldn’t be a stand-in for things in life that give actual enrichment and gratification.

Let’s all be human If you’re in a bad mood, dump it. If you treat the store staff nicely, odds are they will be kind to you in turn. It is Christmas, after all.


Stage Presents

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12.19.07

A bout halfway through the classic hooker fantasy Pretty Woman , the dentally gifted prostitute played by Julia Roberts casually informs the angsty billionaire played by Richard Gere that she has never seen an opera live onstage. In response, he cancels his many appointments, charters a jet and flies her to San Francisco to see La Traviata . While I, too, fantasize that someone would set me up with airfare and tickets to a really great concert or the latest hot Broadway musical—on the actual street named Broadway—I realize that I hold as much chance of that happening as the average guy has of finding someone like Julia Roberts working Hollywood Boulevard.

Except for the rare trip to New York, the original cast recording is about as close as the average fan of Broadway musicals will get to the Great White Way. While it’s not quite the same as being dazzled by a live show in all its visual splendor, a nice new original cast CD of Mel Brooks’ Young Frankenstein: The Musical or Disney’s brand-new stage version of The Little Mermaid have one advantage over the actual shows: they will probably last longer than two hours, and are there for replaying whenever you have the urge.

As it stands, Young Frankenstein , with a raunchy original score that satirizes Broadway while doing homage to the classic horror-spoof comedy, and The Little Mermaid , with mounds of new songs by the movie’s original songwriter Alan Menken, are the two hottest original cast recordings this season and may already be gone from local record stores. If so, consider these lesser-known Broadway shows that pack a solid musical punch, whether you’ve seen the show or not.

Lovemusik , which had a short run on Broadway cut off by the recent stagehands strike, is a dark and richly literate cast recording featuring the great Michael Cerveris and Donna Murphy as the German composer Kurt Weill and his complicated muse/wife Lotte Lenya. The music is all Kurt Weill turned on its ear and given a lush, eerie new sound as the songs are employed to tell the couple’s rocky love story. It’s first-rate stuff.

For those with less highfalutin’ tastes, the raucous, high-spirited stage adaptation of the terrible Olivia Newton John movie Xanadu is a certified Broadway miracle, a fun, completely kick-ass-great transformation of a truly bad movie. With disco-era dance tunes and very witty ballads by Electric Light Orchestra’s Jeff Lynne (also the mastermind behind the Traveling Wilburys), this cast recording is a surprisingly hip good time that comes with just a taste of tacky tongue-in-cheekiness.

Some theater fans know that there’s one thing you can get from a big Broadway show, either in New York or wherever the touring cast takes it, that you probably can’t get when the show finally appears on the stage of your local community theater: merch. Fortunately, you don’t have to go to New York to pick up some theater-world kitsch; you can log on to TheaterMania (www.broadwaynewyork.com), where you can order the shirts and hats and other stuff being sold in the lobbies of just about every show in New York, on Broadway and off.

Know someone who’d love a purple T-shirt with The Wedding Singer’s Broadway logo on it? Got a friend who loves Monty Python and would salivate over a Spamalot baseball cap featuring the Holy Grail, or someone who would look great in a Spring Awakening shirt proclaiming “The Bitch of Living”? The perfect gift is a few clicks and a UPS delivery away.

If, on the other hand, you would prefer to keep things local, remember that while the North Bay may not be Broadway, we do have more than 50 theater companies operating between the Golden Gate and Willits, and many of them are quite good. The Sixth Street Playhouse (opening the shockingly hilarious political satire Public Exposure in January), the Cinnabar Theater (with the Gershwin-Porter-Webber cabaret show That’s Amore opening on New Year’s Eve), the Sonoma County Rep (with the Gone with the Wind &–inspired comedy Moonlight and Magnolias opening Jan. 18), the Marin Theatre Company (with Kenneth Linn’s thriller said Saïd opening Jan. 31) and Pacific Alliance Stage Company (with the delirious Wonder of the World set to open Jan. 24) all offer gift certificates and other ways of giving the gift of live theater to anyone within driving distance.

And of course, if there is anyone out there eager to fly a critic to New York to see Harold Pinter’s Homecoming , I can be reached at the office . . .


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Belly Laughs

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12.22.07

J uno MacGuff (Ellen Page) is a quirky teen, as sarcastic as she is intelligent. As her story begins, the feisty 16-year-old, via gallons of Sunny D and multiple home-pregnancy tests, confirms her suspected pregnancy from a one-night fling with her best friend, Paulie Bleeker (Michael Cera). After considering and rejecting an abortion, Juno instead decides to have the baby and give it up for adoption. But this course of action involves telling her parents of her predicament and subsequently getting so very obviously preggers that everyone at school—nay, the world—can’t help but notice.

Complicating her life even further is the unique relationship she strikes up with the wealthy suburban couple (Jennifer Garner, Jason Bateman) she selects to adopt her child and her continually fluctuating emotions about Paulie.

Juno is a film both unconventional yet easy to relate to. It flirts with the eccentricity of Napoleon Dynamite but is ultimately grounded in an authentic realism. Blogger-turned-screenwriter Diablo Cody’s screenplay avoids many of the typical Hollywood traps; there are no tidy resolutions or sappy lessons to be found here. Unplanned teen pregnancy is not glamorized or romanticized, but neither is it the worst disaster that could ever befall poor Juno. Refreshingly, it’s just something unexpected and maybe a little unfortunate.

The incident of conception is not the logical beginning of a story that succinctly spans the nine months of a pregnancy, but something only glimpsed in sporadic flashbacks. Thus we are dropped in the middle of events already set in motion. Juno’s world feels like one that has existed somewhere else all along. If there isn’t anything particularly daring about the ensuing story, the film nonetheless manages to arrive fresh and original entirely through its very distinctive voice.

Juno herself is one of those characters who can be perfectly pictured just from reading her dialogue as it is on paper. Not to take anything away from Page’s star-making performance—she earns all the award buzz her performance is getting, and then some—but first-time screenwriter Cody has managed to create one of those characters who is instantly her own persona. Juno is imbued with a distinctive dry wit and deadpan delivery sprinkled with perfectly placed pop-culture references (the timing of “Thundercats are Go!” being just one highlight not to be spoiled here).

Cera’s passive and unassuming Paulie Bleeker, although but a slight variation on the young actor’s other roles (Superbad and George Michael Bluth in the short-lived sitcom Arrested Development ) is almost the perfect counterpart to Juno’s constant sassiness, bested only by the fantastic J. K. Simmons as Juno’s good-humored working-class father. The interactions between the doting father and his knocked-up daughter are some of the most heartfelt moments in this very heartfelt film.

Juno expertly conquers the oft-botched hybrid dramedy genre, successfully mingling somber moments among its many comedic scenes. When things get serious for a bit in the third act, the film doesn’t stumble into a depressing fog; instead, it deftly keeps our interest by remaining both sincere and touching. There isn’t much emotional ground left untouched in Juno , and every moment feels just as real and engaging as the rest of it. Juno is not only one of the funniest movies of the year, but also the most satisfying type of comedy. When it’s funny, it’ll make you laugh; when it’s not, it will still make you smile.

‘Juno’ opens at select North Bay theaters on Tuesday, Dec. 25 .


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Hungry for Knowledge

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12.19.07

D oing something to help world hunger is better than doing nothing. Let’s start there. What can you do? More importantly, what will you do? At FreeRice.com, you can play a game that tests the range of your vocabulary, and for every right definition gives 20 grains of rice to the United Nations World Food Program to be dispersed to the hungry. Click and give. At 20 grains a pop.

1. teensy means:a. permanentb. suicidalc. uncommond. minuscule

Twenty grains. But how much is 20 grains? Why not just trot into your kitchen and count them? My children and I did. Half a saucer of uncooked arborio, one layer deep, every grain tabulated by my eight-year-old, was 421 grains, not counting the ones she dropped. Cooked, that’s probably a little more than a mouthful.

That’s not much, but if I play the rice game and Max in Davis plays the rice game and Ali in Bristol and Sophia in Napoli and thousands of others on the wonderful, weird, worldwide web play the rice game, the molehill grows mountainous. Donations went from 830 grains when the site launched on Oct. 7 to 256,215,480 grains donated on Dec. 13, bringing the total donated to 8,551,031,610 and rising. The figures form an exponential triangle, almost a roadmap of the web’s scope, its power to mobilize.

FreeRice.com is the brilliant creation of online fundraising pioneer John Breen. “The site is a viral marketing success story with more than 1 billion grains of rice donated in just one month to help tackle hunger worldwide,” says World Food Program executive director Josette Sheeran, noting that hunger claims more lives than AIDS, tuberculosis and malaria combined.

The genius of FreeRice.com is it makes you feel not only altruistic, but smart. With a series of right answers, your rating goes up, and with it, the difficulty level of the vocabulary questions. Along with those grains of rice tossed to the hungry, the program pitches you weirder, more arcane words. (Rest assured, wrong answers do not withdraw the food already earned.)

I find myself thinking of the origins of these words, their rich histories and etymologies, the languages from which they derive. Greek, Latin, Yiddish, Navajo. Of the people who make up the world, who’ve contributed to what we call our world culture, of our variation and similarities, our ability to conceive of the earth as unified by comprehension and compassion. When contributing to stopping world hunger is so easy, so undemanding, so morally rewarding and actually fun—well nigh addicting—why not do it every day, like walking the dog or doing yoga?

2. entelechy means: a. mountain lake b. believableness c. actuality d. sideboard

At FreeRice.com, words translate to numbers: there are 29,000 grains of long grain white rice per pound; 3,500 grains in a 1/3 cup portion. FreeRice.com has fed more than 50,000 people for one day, and more each minute. Advertisers such as Apple computers and Macy’s, who are footing the bill for the rice, pay as little as $5 through Google, jockeying with others who bid for ad spots and frequency. Now consider what we each earn hourly at our jobs and the price of rice ($0.89&–$0.99 per pound). Why not take whatever time you play amassing food 20 grains at a time, and give that much of your hourly wage to a hunger relief group directly? Because it’s FreeRice.com, you’re freely giving your free time. In our houses and offices, at our screens, connected by a flow of information awesome by every definition of the word, it’s nothing for us to do something.

The United Nation estimates the cost of ending world hunger completely, along with diseases related to hunger and poverty, at $195 billion a year. Twenty-two countries have pledged to contribute 0.7 percent of their national income to raising this amount. So far, Sweden, Luxembourg, Norway, the Netherlands and Denmark have reached their goals. The United States has not yet set a schedule. (You can go to sister site Poverty.com to print a letter urging our country to do its part.)

3. hiemal means: a. elder b. conscientious c. rasping d. wintry

In these days of gratitude, miraculous oils, Ujima (the collective work and responsibility of Kwanzaa), holy birth, amidst the consuming and consumerism, shouldn’t we be thinking beyond ourselves? The faceless, nameless hungry—we know they are out there somewhere, even as we eat our wild mushroom risotto, as we trade witty sallies or demonstrate our eloquence over the local vintage. Do they spoil our savor? Does the $400 meal at the finest restaurant in the land satisfy our hunger? Have we done all we can, or even something? These are some questions to discuss over the next meal.

(Answers: 1. d, 2. c, 3. d)

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Fresh

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12.19.07

S ome of us aren’t very good at direction, and removing the ocean’s steadfast shore from the mix makes the rudderless even more confused. And so it was that some of us couldn’t begin to understand where the new Oxbow Public Market would be located in relation to COPIA. The word “east” was used. As it turns out, Oxbow is smack next to the main COPIA parking lot in an attractive, 40,000-square-foot farm-style building. And as it turns out, Oxbow may just revitalize downtown Napa single-handedly.

If we have been so inclined, we in the North Bay have by now mostly visited San Francisco’s Ferry Plaza Building. And we in the North Bay have seen fresh foodstuffs that come directly from our area for sale there priced roughly 30 percent more than we could purchase them for at the local market if we’d just stayed home in the first place. Oxbow is something different.

Fresh food: Oxbow will have 10 farm stands open daily from 8am to 2pm, making every day a farmers market day. Fresh burgers: The insanely popular Taylor’s Automatic Refresher, which packs ’em in whether in St. Helena or the Ferry Building, has its newest outpost. Fresh wine: The Oxbow Wine Merchant, operated by the same good folks who run the Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant, have cheese pairings from the Oxbow Cheese Merchant, a massive tasting bar and an outdoor patio overlooking the Napa River. Fresh wine and food: Folio Enoteca has an 800-square-foot onsite winery in the space and serves light meals. Fresh tea (Tillerman’s), fresh spices (Whole Spice), fresh chocolate (Anette’s), fresh olives (the Olive Press), fresh beef (Five Dot Ranch), fresh ice cream (Three Twins Organic), fresh bread (Model Bakery), fresh salumi (the Fatted Calf), fresh Venezuelan food (Pica Pica) and fresh dinners-already-ready (Rotisario).

Other booths include the Kitchen Library for books, Heritage Culinary Artifacts for one-of-a-kind antiques and Fete for party-giving. In other words, there’s a reason to stop by the Oxbow every single day if you’re in the area.

Anette’s, Fete, Heritage Culinary, Kitchen Library, Tillerman and the Olive Press opened last weekend. Due to open on Dec. 22 are two of the first farm stands, Bera Ranch and De Santis Farm, both offering citrus; eight more stands will be added. Other stalls are still coming into flower, but the entire market should be up and open by mid-January.

Oxbow Public Market, 610 First St., adjacent to COPIA, Napa. Farmstands open at 8am; restaurants and wine purveyors, 11am. It’s Napa, after all, so the day wraps up at 8pm Sunday-Friday and 9pm on Saturday. [ http://www.oxbowpublicmarket.com ]www.oxbowpublicmarket.com.

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Wine Tasting Room of the Week

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O ur journey to this historic house of sparkling wine began in Larkspur. Out of six French Champagnes, Italian Proseccos and domestic sparkling that the Tam Cellars wine shop offered at a recent tasting, one impressed me. Schramsberg’s 2003 Blanc de Noirs had the rich aroma of the ghosts of yeast past, a light note somewhere between pear fruit and perspiration, the sensuality of a great Champagne. Realizing that I have been woefully remiss in my tasting duties in this category, I made an appointment at the next opportunity.

Every venerable Napa estate has its founding graybeard and namesake. Jacob Schram was a German immigrant who took up barbering in the 1850s. Being frugal, the story goes, he saved up and bought a 200 acre parcel in the Napa Valley. (Ah, if only you could frugally skip your daily $3 latté for a few years, and consequently close on a few hundred North Bay acres.) Despite the popularity of Champagne in post-Gold Rush California, Schram made still wines. He did, however, employ Chinese laborers to hand-dig extensive caves. The winery first gained recognition for hosting Robert Louis Stevenson, who wrote about it in Silverado Squatters .

After the disruptions of Prohibition and changes in ownership, enter Jack and Jamie Davies in 1965. They rehabilitated the Victorian house and dilapidated caves, and, keeping Schram’s name, began a family-run Champagne house. When their Blanc de Blancs was featured front and center at the “Toast to Peace” during Nixon’s 1972 China trip, they were vaulted to the preeminent status the estate enjoys today. Incredibly, it was the first domestic sparkling wine served at a U.S. state function.

Schramsberg is tucked into a quiet, forested hillside, and because it’s open for tours by appointment only, there are no crowds. Dark, diaphanous lichen floats on the hand-chipped rock walls of the caves. The lichen, which doesn’t grow in modern, concrete-walled caves, serves to cleanse the air in the subterranean microclimate, as well as lending spooky atmosphere. With golden-hued bottles stacked floor to ceiling in the background, our guide explains the méthode champenoise and relates various colorful anecdotes before moving on to tasting.

The “tasting room” is a branch of the cave illuminated with standing candelabras. After a demonstration that in uncorking Champagne “the ear’s gain is the palate’s loss,” we toast with a round of the 2004 Blanc de Blancs ($34.50). Even Queen Elizabeth II is said to be fond of its clean pear and apple cider flavors. Forget strawberries with the Brut Rosé ($39.50); our guide suggests it pairs particularly well with popcorn. That Blanc de Noirs was not on the table; however, the 2001 Reserve ($90) is a premium selection of that cuveé. (Holiday budget tip: Schramsberg sparkling can be bought at Trader Joe’s at a significant discount.)

After the third glass, concerned that all this fine quaff might produce sufficient euphoria to contraindicate piloting an automobile, a few of us stepped up to the dump bucket. The majority of folks darn well got their money’s worth.

Schramsberg Vineyards, 1400 Schramsberg Road, Calistoga. Four tours a day by appointment only, $25 per person. 707.942.4558.



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