Are They Dark?

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05.14.08

T hese days, the popular model for an alt-rock lineup is either a stark guy-girl duo, like the White Stripes, or a multi-instrumental collective, like the Arcade Fire. These current models are opposites, but for Sonoma’s new rock duo the Harlequin Party, the two models coexist.

“I think we have both styles in us, and more,” says Sasha Papadin of his first project, which includes wife Lauren Papadin, since his club-touring band the Val Papadins dissolved last year. “The big picture,” Sasha says of Harlequin Party, “is to make an anti-band—the two of us at its core, with guests coming and going.” The newlywed couple, who refer to their rattling carnival sound as “rock noir,” plan to add horns, percussion, backup singers and perhaps even dancers when they start gigging to support their new disc, Fever Dreams.

Lauren enjoys that “the simplicity of this current duo is lovely and virtually carefree,” but favors opening the duo into a loose collective, which Sasha says will “create a medium where we can play acoustic shows or big band shows and not feel like we’re betraying some code.”

That’s the performance plan, but Fever Dreams is virtually a solo recording by Sasha, with slight vocal and production contributions from Lauren and Sasha’s brother William. Still, the need for a larger band is implied by multiple keyboard and guitar parts (which Lauren shares live), by the strange mutating circus feel of the music and by charming touches like group vocals that recall a gaggle of drunks in the distance.

“I focused on making the record right and chose to worry about live arrangements later,” Papadin says of converting solo work into a group dynamic. “I gave myself advance permission, when recording, to not have to play these songs the same way live—that felt like freedom.” In fact, changing the songs live is the whole point, he says, noting how favorites like the Walkmen and Bob Dylan “completely deconstruct their songs at each show. As a fan, that’s the only thing that brings me back.”

The content of Fever Dreams is complex enough to invite such reinvention. A general sonic thread links Harlequin Party to artists like Nick Cave, David Bowie, Leonard Cohen, Tom Waits and Ennio Morricone, where a dreamy European sense of keyboard atmospherics collides with a rougher American sense of driving guitar. In the middle of the track “Los Angeles,” for example, a churning, savage Bo Diddley beat is interrupted by a wandering piano abstraction before the chorus reappears.

Papadin is genuinely incredulous when asked why the songs are so dark. “Are they dark? They sound cheery to me,” he retorts, later admitting that there’s “something sinister bubbling below the surface, like the dark undercurrent of a calm ocean. If you’re honest with the undercurrent, it comes out feeling very human, cleansed and worked-out.”

“Some of the songs are dark,” Lauren adds, “but Sasha is not. That paradox gives the music such a uniquely beautiful sound.”

Indeed, there is more to Papadin than “rock noir” band music. He also composes soundtracks, recently creating scene segues for a staging of Lolita by Intertwined Productions at the Sonoma Community Center. Director Frances Hall had seen his indie film Prelude at the Sonoma Valley Film Festival in 2004, and was “reminded a lot of David Lynch. Sasha is kind of ethereal, but pretty haunting.”

Hall says that “I definitely want to use him again,” and her recommendation shows that Papadin’s music can thrive far beyond a solo or duo format. “He gets over [his own work] soon,” Lauren says of her husband’s restless creativity, adding that she does “everything I can to keep him interested in these songs before moving on to the next project.” But Papadin doesn’t seem to move on from his material so much as move within it.

“These songs are like battered rowboats,” he says, “that are going to behave and feel different based on the weather, and on who or how many people are paddling.”

The Harlequin Party release ‘Fever Dreams’ at the end of May, with live shows to start in early June. For more details, check [ http://www.myspace.com/theharlequinparty ]www.myspace.com/theharlequinparty.


Obama’s Clarifying Win

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05.14.08

Barack Obama’s May 6 triumph was a victory over a wall that pretends to be a fly on the wall.

For a long time, the nation’s body politic has been shoved up against that wall. It’s known as the news media.

Despite all its cracks and gaps, what cements the wall is mostly a series of repetition-compulsion disorders. Whether the media attention is on Pastor Wright, the words “bitter” and “cling,” or an absent flag lapel pin, the wall’s surfaces are more rigid when they’re less relevant to common human needs and shared dreams.

“We’ve already seen it,” Obama said during his victory speech in North Carolina. “The same names and labels they always pin on everyone who doesn’t agree with all their ideas, the same efforts to distract us from the issues that affect our lives, by pouncing on every gaffe and association and fake controversy, in the hopes that the media will play along.”

And oh, how they’ve played along. From the front pages of “quality” dailies to the reportage of NPR’s drive-time news to the blather-driven handicapping on cable television, the ways that media structures have functioned in recent weeks tell us—yet again—how fleeting any media attention to substance can be.

News outlets spun out—”pouncing on every gaffe and association and fake controversy”—as media Obama-mania about a long shot candidate morphed into Obama-phobia toward the candidate most likely to become the Democratic presidential nominee. The man who could do little wrong became a man who could do little right. The lines of attack were spurious and protracted enough to be jaw-dropping.

But how often can we be truly shocked by such media patterns? Perennial corporate structures are reinforcing the narrow boundaries.

If this sounds like an old complaint, it is. Institutional dynamics—fueled and steered by ownership, advertising, underwriting and undue government influence—repeat themselves with endless permutations. Dominant media routinely focus on counterfeit issues, often ignoring or trashing progressive options in the process.

From George McGovern to Gary Hart to Michael Dukakis to Al Gore to Howard Dean to John Kerry, a long line of Democratic contenders with a chance to become president have been whipsawed by cartoonish images or bogus “issues,” incubated by the right wing and fully hatched by the mass media. The slightest progressive wrinkles of even the starchiest corporate Democrats have been ironed out by media steamrollers.

In recent months, as Barack Obama went from underdog to frontrunner, the news media became stainless-steel accessories to the “kitchen sink” politics of smear and fear.

The media pretense of being a fly on the wall has often been preposterous. In the real world of politics, where power brokers and manipulators proceed with the cynical axiom that perception is reality, the fly on the wall is the wall. The political press corps is not observing reality as much as redefining it while obstructing outlooks and constraining public perceptions.

Yet in North Carolina and Indiana, voters had more votes than all the pundits did. Pundits lost. Voters came out ahead. So did Obama. And so did the body politic.

We’re still up against the media wall. But when dawn broke on Wednesday, that wall wasn’t quite as high or mighty. And the nation might be able to see a little more clearly beyond it.

West Marin writer Norman Solomon is an elected Obama delegate to the Democratic National Convention. His books include ‘War Made Easy: How Presidents and Pundits Keep Spinning Us to Death.’

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Anywhere She Lays Her Head

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05.14.08

Scarlett Johansson is a lucky woman when it comes to Anywhere I Lay My Head, her debut album out next week. It’s hard to go wrong with songs written by one of the most brilliant songwriters of the age, Tom Waits, and add to the mix the production team of Dave Sitek (TV on the Radio) and Nick Zinner (Yeah Yeah Yeahs), with backing vocals by David Bowie, and there’s a recipe for brilliance. But the right ingredients don’t always add up. Opening track “Fawn” is the song a lonely organist in a Midwest mall might play while awaiting customers who will never arrive. “Falling Down,” the first single—a pretty, My Bloody Valentine&–esque track—highlights Johansson’s smoky vocals and would have been right at home on the Lost in Translation soundtrack; on “Anywhere I Lay My Head,” the actress emulates the tremolo vocal styling of Elizabeth Fraser of the Cocteau Twins. But on “Fannin Street,” Johansson sounds like she was drugged before the recording session and then forced to sing through a broken vacuum cleaner tube, and the disco-infused vibe of “I Don’t Want to Grow Up” would work as the opening theme to a bad German variety show. If you pretend it’s not Johansson singing, and just some unknown lovely girl singer, it’s better.—Leilani Clark

Johansson cannot sing in tune at all. It’s intriguing. One, she didn’t autotune her vocals, instead doubling them up to constantly clash with each other in pitch. Two, it sounds like Sinéad O’Connor or This Mortal Coil or some other early 4AD stuff where the singers purr like witches luring you into their vat of human flesh. And three, if it wasn’t Tom Waits’ material, the album would actually be better. Johansson doesn’t “get into” the feeling of the songs; it’s like she learned them five minutes before recording them and delivered a cold reading with no passion at all. She’s gotten a lot of cred for this project, but overwhelmingly, she comes off as not an actual Tom Waits fan at all. Too bad.—Gabe Meline

In her films, Johansson is often cast as a muse for middle-aged men—she’s the Viagra of filmdom. As a singer, however, excusing the metaphor, she falls flat. The ingénue and her producers have chosen songs from throughout Waits’ career, making it a little disconcerting to hear a 24-year-old sing “I Don’t Wanna Grow Up.” The songs Waits writes are gems of lyrical brilliance, so why are Scarlett’s vocals so awash in reverb? Sitek has said he was trying for a “Tinkerbell on cough syrup” vibe, but we love our neighbor’s voice—why would we want cough syrup?—Brian Griffith

Anywhere I Lay My Head is out in stores next Tuesday. Tom Waits is touring this summer, hell yeah; for dates, see www.tomwaits.com.


The Slackers at the Mystic Theatre

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Vic Ruggiero, what a guy.
“Hey, howya likin’ the movie so far? Ya know those movies, right, where they got the guy who keeps talkin’ about stuff, an’ it goes on an’ on, an’ then you figure out there’s no plot or thread? You ever seen those movies? Like those Woody Allen movies, y’know, ‘So I was waitin’ for the bus. . ‘ An’ he keeps on talkin’ and talkin’ without makin’ no sense. Or like, whaddya call it, the French New Wave? Where there’s just a bunch of stuff an’ we’re supposed t’think it’s art?”
“Is this like that? Is this art, what we’re doin’ up here?”
The Slackers are a great band who know six zillion songs, and therefore, if you go see ’em, they’ll play 12 songs you don’t know until they finally play one song you love. It’s worth the wait, and Ruggiero’s string of deep-Bronx nonsequitur banter is hilarious.
“Nice t’ be playin’ some of those tough-guy songs, y’know. For a long time everyone was out to kick our ass for bein’ the best band in New York. We were always playin’ Nightingale’s. ‘Member that place? Held about 25 people. It bred only the best! Blues Traveler. Spin Doctors. Tha’s why people were wantin’ to kick our ass, t’make sure of no more Blues Traveler!”
The show was fantastic. Everyone in the place was dancing. Only half-full, though, which is really too bad—I can think of two dozen people off the top of my head who would have loved it. Don’t miss ’em next time they come around.

Trace Adkins at Konocti Harbor

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As I walked from the parking lot up to the entrance of the amphitheater last Friday night, I overheard two employees—a shuttle driver and a kid directing traffic—chatting about the evening’s crowd. “It’s gonna get worse when people start drinkin’,” one said. “Yeah,” the guy replied, “there’s a whole lotta stupid goin’ on.”
I was, for the first time in my life, at Konocti Harbor, a place that’s been the punchline to many jokes about toothless women and shirtless men made by us big city Santa Rosa types. But I can now say with authority that these jokes are mostly unfounded; after a long, winding drive, I found out that Konocti Harbor wasn’t at all the chintzy Las Vegas atmosphere I’d always assumed it to be but a serene hamlet of beauty and fresh air. In fact, strolling past the trees, tennis courts and rustic cottages with a quaint view of Clear Lake, it recalled more the summer resort from Dirty Dancing, and thus every girl in high-rise jeans made me think of Jennifer Grey. There were a lot of ‘em, too—this was, after all, a country show.
I’ve been listening to a lot of country radio lately. Most of it’s terrible, but alongside all the bullshit like Brad Paisley, Kenny Chesney and Dierks Bentley, there’s this guy from Louisiana, Trace Adkins, that I’m a huge fan of. Those who know me might find this incredibly out of character—believe me, I was pretty surprised to find it out myself—but after immersing myself thoroughly in the subject, I can say that Trace Adkins has one of the most penetrating and compelling voices in country music today.
During his hour and a half-long set at Konocti, Adkins played hit after hit, demonstrating the versatility of style in his output. The lightshow-laden opener “I Got My Game On” kicked things off promising that “it’s gonna be a hell of a ride,” and from the tender moments of “I Came Here To Live” and “Every Light in the House” to the good ol’ boys romp of “Rough and Ready” and “Ladies Love Country Boys,” Adkins was clearly having a great time. “We’ll try to do some songs that we know pretty good,” he joked to the crowd early on, “so they won’t suck too bad.”
Adkins has a natural ability to be both serious and stupid, oftentimes in the same sentence. For example, the “American Man” tour, which hits casinos, state fairs and football fields, is named after a song that Adkins told the crowd was inspired by his dad: “He’s basically at the top of my hero list,” he said, speaking from the heart. “Real hard-noser, though. Someone said to me the other day, ‘Your old man reminds me of John Wayne.’ I said, ‘Hell, my old man makes John Wayne look gay.’”
When Adkins finds a song in the direct middle of these two extremes—the pensiveness of “You’re Gonna Miss This” and the crass yahooism in “Chrome,” say—he’s at his best. “I Wanna Feel Something,” one man’s plea to experience emotion in a numbing modern world, was one of the set’s highlights on Friday night. Occupying similar emotional ground was “Arlington,” which Adkins went out of his way to introduce with “nothing but the utmost of respect and honor.”
In the country world, “Arlington” sparked controversy when it was released as a single, probably because it doesn’t conform to the simpleminded let’s-fuckin’-kick-their-asses narrative of all the remedial Toby Keith fans in the world. Instead, it explores the complex point of view of a dead soldier sent back home from war who finds at least a small, final solace in being buried in the hallowed ground of Arlington Cemetery. The verses, in particular, represent some of Adkins’ richest singing, and at the end of the song, Adkins was visibly choked up.
“I gotta be honest with you, it’s hard to keep my mind on things, singing that song,” he said afterwards, explaining that his manager’s son was over in Afghanistan; two days ago, there’d been an attack which had killed at least two soldiers, and they still hadn’t heard from him. “We’re goin’ over there in September, though,” Adkins announced. “Funny thing is, we go over there to make them feel good, and you know what? They make us feel good! Now, I don’t give a damn if you support the war or not, but we gotta support the boys in the fields!”
(Of course, the crowd went crazy at this, but for as hot as Adkins is on soldiers’ issues, not all of his fans seem to share his concern. During the show, two women—a mother and a daughter trashily dressed in matching tube tops and pumps—walked next to me and stood directly in front of an aisle full of WWII veterans, blocking their view and blatantly ignoring their repeated requests to move. I went up and pointed out that their tickets were for a different section, and that they were upsetting a row full of old people, but they absolutely did not care at all; it was only when security came along that they haughtily strutted back to their seats. So much for war heroes, I guess.)
“Hot Mama” marked an end to the “wholesome part of the concert,” and Adkins talked a little bit about the song’s steamy video (“it was the first time since I got a record deal,” he said, “that my mamma was very disappointed in me”) and then went into a weird thing about the Bible and Adam and Eve and the forbidden fruit. This all came back around to his big closer, “Honky Tonk Badonkadonk,” which prompted everyone in the crowd, who had been standing the whole time, to completely get on down. I decided to walk around and watch all of Lake County’s finest—including, yes, a girl missing some teeth and an overweight guy wearing no shirt—shake their back-country asses to the most totally stupid and completely enjoyable country hit of the last few years.
The band vamped the song at the end, with Adkins finally delivering his send-off line.
“Lemme tell you,” he said, while the band played, “I didn’t get in this business for the fame, or the money—I got in this business for one reason and one reason only. . .”
The music stopped. Adkins threw his arms open wide.
“Badonkadonk, motherfucker!”
Like the man said: a whole lotta stupid goin’ on. But when no one’s takin’ it too seriously, and when an amphitheater full of people on the lake are having a hell of a good time, it’s hard to do anything but laugh your ass off and join in.

Media Moments: The P.D. and the KRSH

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It’s just one of those days when tidbits fall from the sky into one’s lazy lap. And so it was that a man called our offices this morning, wanting to talk about the Santa Rosa Press Democrat. A former staffer since laid off by the PD, our chap is a smart fellow with an interesting story to tell about how our own particular slice of modern day mass media is committing suicide by accident.

Outsourcing ad production and editorial layout to India (as seen above), anyone?

Later this afternoon, an email came in from the KRSH 95.9-FM, where I spend about 10 minutes every Wednesday morning nattering needlessly on about ahrt and the Bohemian. Seems top management at the KRSH are concerned that the morning “talent” talk too much. Ziggy Eschliman is on for 30 minutes on Wednesdays; Frank Hayhurst for an hour on Fridays. Theater, film and the occasional other round the week out. Now each of us will have three entire minutes. While I’m just as glad to have to either focus my words or quit the gig, I suspect that Ziggy and Frank might feel otherwise.

Not To Reason Why at the 600 House; J-Boogie at the Hopmonk

It was the fucking awesomest one-song set.
It was 11pm. Three bands had already played. I was planning on taking off to Sebastopol, had already said my goodbyes, and was literally halfway out the front door of the 600 House when Not To Reason Why started playing. Awww, shit. After the first couple notes, I was lured, like a magnet, back into the living room. How could I leave? When it comes to Not To Reason Why, you can’t even pretend like there’s an option. Just give in.
The Carlo Rossi was flowing. Fools were juiced. And if you’ve never heard them, Not To Reason Why are on some heavy-ass, pulsing, move-your-body epic-type tip. The song: “Zeitgeist.” The living room heaved, hands shot into the air, and the band played intensely, furiously, like it was the end of the world. Howls of joy. Heads shook in disbelief. Jessie Mae jumped up on top of an amplifier. For six sweet minutes, miracles came true.
Then the cops came.
——————————————————————————-
People are always talking about how there’s nothing to do around here, but tonight was a pretty good example of why that’s untrue. Here it was, Thursday night of all nights, there’s a killer house party that gets busted by the cops and yet there’s still more to do. Juke Joint with J-Boogie. I headed west.
——————————————————————————–
I pulled up to the Hopmonk Tavern a little before midnight and saw, I kid you not, a guy and a girl, standing and squatting next to each other in the parking lot, both talking to each other and pissing on the asphalt, simultaneously. Love works in incredible ways.
Inside, J-Boogie had just started his set with a megamix of Stevie Wonder songs—it being Stevie’s birthday—and the place was hopping like mad. Bodies on the floor, busting some serious moves. Breakdancers in the corner. Girls dancing on the stage. Again, the magnetic pull erased any choice other than to get down. Even the wallflowers were dancing in their shoes.
Out in the beer garden, I ran into a buddy of mine and asked him how, in his opinion, a small town like Sebastopol was able to so overwhelmingly support a night like Juke Joint. “It’s new,” he said, citing that everything fresh and hip has its initial glory period. Having worked at now-defunct Barcode in Santa Rosa, he could be said to speak from experience. “It’ll die down,” he predicted.
He could be right. But judging from last night’s huge crowd, and judging from the hypnotic spell J-Boogie had over everyone, it was hard to imagine an impending lull on the near horizon.
I’ve dug J-Boogie for almost ten years now, and the bulk of his set—after the Stevie Wonder tracks, and before the Motown / Atlantic megamix at the end—was a slick reminder of why he’s so great. Crazy, rhythmic grooves from all around the world; none of them recognizable, all of them dope. Also, J-Boogie’s one of the few DJs who can drop a long three-minute drum break with intros on the upbeat and full-on long paces of total silence and still keep the crowd not only moving but hollering with excitement. Hell yeah!
More photos after the jump.

What the Hell’s Wrong with Neil Young?

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For what has literally been decades of anticipation, Neil Young fans have been waiting for the ultimate Neil Young box set. Years have rolled by. All of his comrades and co-workers released box sets. Even Buffalo Springfield released a box set. Nothing from Neil.
This week, Neil Young announced that he’s finally satiating the thirst for his massive treasure trove of old recordings by releasing a huge 10-disc set this fall—hell yes, finally!
Here’s what sucks: the Neil Young Archive, as it’s called, is only coming out on Blu-ray.
Do you own a Blu-ray player? Yeah, me neither. They’re $400.
The set, announced as the first of five volumes, will contain 128 tracks, 500 photos, letters, old papers, and additional material designed to be viewed on the screen while listening to the music. In his press conference, Young encouraged his mostly middle-aged fans to buy a Sony Playstation 3 in order to be able to “experience” the box set. “We want people to spend the same hours on it like a video game,” he said.
You know what? Neil Young has been beating this misguided audiophile horse for far too long. He’s latched onto DVD audio like it was the second coming of Christ and saturated the market with awkwardly-shaped and utterly confusing versions of his albums—many of which get returned by customers who can’t listen to them, and which go back to collect dust on warehouse shelves or clog up landfills. His belligerence with the technology is a waste, and the world is not going to get in step with him on the idea. It’s expensive, it’s ego-driven, it’s elitist, and I think it’s pretty much the last straw.

Twists and Tunes

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the arts | stage |

Duet: Ashley Jarrett and Byron DeMent portray lovers in ‘They’re Playing Our Song.’

By David Templeton

An acrophobic, insecure songwriter with a string of hit tunes to his name and a shelf full of awards (Marvin Hamlisch, known here as Vernon Gersch) meets a bright, bubbly, eccentric, chronically late up-and-coming songwriter (Carol Bayer Sager, aka Sonia Walsk) with a penchant for wearing hand-me-downs she cajoles from small theater companies. While writing five songs together and delivering snappy one liners by Neil Simon, this musical odd couple fall in and out and in and out of love, until the end, when they both finally deal with her ex-boyfriend, Burt Bacharach—that is, Leon. An autobiographical musical love story, They’re Playing Our Song first appeared in 1979 and is as light and fluffy and nonthreateningly sexual as an episode of Love, American Style.

In a fresh, pleasing, emotionally grounded new production by the Pacific Alliance Stage Company, this potentially dated show is made relevant by the winning performances of its two strong-voiced central stars (Byron DeMent and Ashley Jarrett) and kept immediate, meaningful and moving by the smart, sensitive direction of Hector Correa. Correa takes what might have been slight, pleasant fluff and makes it real, sharply focused and at times powerfully moving. It clips along at a perfect pace, sounds great in terms of voice and orchestra, and everyone who needs to looks cute in pajamas. This is PASCO’s best, most enjoyable musical in years.

“You can’t sit in a dentist’s chair without hearing one your songs!” That’s how the overwhelmingly weird Sonia praises the accomplishments of her songwriting idol when she meets Vernon at his Manhattan apartment, the same building, we are told, in which Jerome Kerns, Isaac Stern and Leonard Bernstein reside. Simultaneously attracted and appalled, Vernon proposes that they write five songs together, but the working process is almost immediately compromised by Sonia’s tendency to be days late to meetings. Their fits-and-starts romance is slowed by Sonia’s odd relationship with the never-seen Leon, with whom she has broken up but refuses to stop taking care of.

In reality, Hamlisch (“The Way We Were,” etc.) and Carol Bayer Sager (“Arthur’s Theme,” “That’s What Friends Are For,” etc.) were involved for several years in the late ’70s and early ’80s, romantically and professionally. They met when she was still a struggling lyricist, mainly known for having penned the 1965 Mindbenders hit “A Groovy Kind of Love” and for having been married to Bacharach.

In the fictionalized version of their love story, for which the team wrote the enjoyably poppy songs, with Simon contributing the book, Sonia and Vernon each have their own Greek chorus of singing and dancing “inner voices” (pared down to two apiece from the trio called for in the Broadway version). In PASCO’s production, Vernon’s voices are hilariously well-played by a pair of well-known local actor-directors, Gene Abravaya (he sings falsetto!) and John Shillington, while Sonia’s voices are embodied by Laura Pedersen-Schulz (last seen at Spreckels in 2007’s You’re a Good Man Charlie Brown) and Sonoma vocalist Linda Jacobson.

On a nicely spare set by Rose Anne Raphael, with entertainingly choreographed set changes, the cast perform with a live band of capable young players, well-directed by Diego Emir Garcia. The lighting and sound design by Eddy Hansen and Doug Faxon, respectively, complete the polished package (though I’d have like to have heard the “voices” a tiny bit better).

The core of any love story is the lovers, and DeMent and Jarrett succeed in making this couple adorably meant-for-each-other. It is a sign of their skill, and of Correa’s knack for getting to the emotional heart of a play, that I found myself wanting them to get together and stay together, and felt genuine heartbreak when it looked as if they’d never make it.

The story is a rare celebration of human kindness, having at its dramatic heart Sonia’s refusal to abandon her grieving former lover simply because her new lover would feel less threatened that way. More cynical theatergoers might write this show off as an elaborate form of couple’s therapy, but others will recognize it as a charming, loopy homage to the twists and turns of love, and the power of a good pop song to say what we couldn’t otherwise find the words to communicate.

‘They’re Playing Our Song’ runs Thursday–Sunday through May 18. Thursday at 7:30pm; Friday–Saturday at 8pm; Sunday at 2:30pm. Spreckels Performing Arts Center, 5409 Snyder Lane, Rohnert Park. $23–$26; all seats $20 on Thursdays. 707.588.3400.



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The Raw & the Clothed

05.07.08

Popular fashion designers want us to believe that by purchasing their products we gain membership into trendy clubs to which others are denied. In his 1964 manifesto Understanding Media: The Extensions of Man, communications oracle Marshall McLuhan insists that every human technology mimics and extends our inherent physical or intellectual attributes. Consequently, all items humankind makes and draws from are media reflecting who we are. A T-shirt, for example is the extension of our skin. It’s a medium, while the brand name making it a billboard helps broadcast its message. This branding is precisely what popular fashion boils down to. But both the medium itself and what’s embossed on it communicate its message.

Historians chronicle how royals and lesser privileged classes have long shaped the emergence of fashion. Modern high fashion carries on elements of this tradition. It’s designed to race beyond both the economic and appreciative grasp of the unwashed masses. The high-fashion message seems to be, “We are prettier, richer, smarter and have more of what it takes than you. Besides, you haven’t a clue as to what any of this means—though you’d chew your right arm off to be one of us!”

Haute couture tends so to exaggeration that it has largely transcended everyday applied fashion. Like kinetic sculpture, high fashion’s more akin to fine art placed in pose and motion. Ask any random person about fashion and chances are he’ll respond with something about clothing apparel or accompanying accessories.

But let’s go beyond fabric skin coverings, shape changers and distraction enhancers. Let’s carry the notion of fashion along with the galaxy of reasons for its existence into the realm of . . . well, to rearrange a famous McLuhan probe, let’s go into what media lie behind every fashion message. As we humans continue to reach out, to extend our capabilities and materialize our dreams, fashion and the media defining and disseminating it, spin each new vogue into a mad dance of death inside technology’s hyperevolving ballroom. Flash, crash and digest. That’s today’s fashion.

OK, then—mass media. Different forms of communication, right? You’ve got your TV, your newspapers, radios, Internet chat rooms, podcasts, etc. ad infinitum. But to give the entire communication media landscape its due, we’ll toss in every other form of communicative expression, whether modern mass or not. Picture media as existing as a grandly effete and yet bubbling-over cannibal-style pot of every communication form. Into this roiling stew is diced, sliced, skinned and skewered all manner of human development that came before us.

Fashion, then, is all those teensy bits of spicy audacity blown into our stew from winds changing their direction, hard rains falling or even hurricanes of war. Its flavors stand out just long enough to blend in, overtaken by the next gentle breeze or calamity carrying yet another fashionable offering. Meaning, of course, that what was momentarily fashionable is not fashionable for long. The clock’s ticking, time is compressed. The sun sets on the British Empire, and Nehru jackets become the rage. Nuke a Micronesian atoll, and we get the bikini. Beatles beget mop-top haircuts, NASA brings us Tang. Campbell Soup: Warhol and the Velvet Underground. Iraq, round one: the Hummer.

The essence of fashion is an inherently human something that’s been here from the moment our ancestors first savvied that they were different one from the other and could do something about it—ergo ego. Other species exhibit unique personal attributes, but here on terra firma, only humankind has, via progressive technological multipliers, succeeded in producing such an array of aping technologies that these extensions themselves seem to define us. Some day, they may do more than that. Some day, these fashionable extensions may themselves morph into or evolve, transcend, replace or even devour us. As for now, fashion’s still expressed by flesh-and-blood humans personally walking the plank in order to be noticed.

As McLuhan points out in The Gutenberg Galaxy, the movable press revolutionized independent thinking, giving rise to the notion of individuality. Likewise, each media technology has had profound effects on who we are, what we do and how we see ourselves and our universe. In the same way the car extends our ability to walk, so too do extensions of our bodies and our intellect produce breakthroughs whose popularity is often mimicked in popular fashion.

Lifestyle fashions, architectural trends, economic fads, dance crazes, popular political views and philosophies are a few of fashion’s offspring, all of which continually break, ebb and fade away. Perhaps fashion, short-lived and transitory, is simply a communicative tool to gauge how far we humans can extend from our physical and emotional beings, and still retain our identities as individuals—and as a species.


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