Pat’s Place

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07.29.09

If you wandered into Pat’s Bar in Guerneville the other week, looking to get a bit of fine dining from the adjacent Chef Patrick’s, you were out of luck. The chef packed up and left.

Yet you needn’t go far to find him. Just trot across Main Street and down the block a bit: Chef Patrick’s is now serving its California-French cuisine in the old Charizma restaurant space, which had closed its doors this past September. Pat’s Restaurant, next to Pat’s Bar, has long been a favorite of diners savvy enough to know that, despite the unlikely setting of a dark room connected to an even darker pub, there was some good food to be had here.

Yes, it was a little complicated. The Pat in “Pat’s Bar” was actually owner Richard Hines, who served casual breakfast and lunch. “Chef Patrick” is Patrick Wong, who was leasing space from Hines to offer more upscale dinner service, and he was only open several nights a week, with often random hours.

At the new Chef Patrick’s, Wong continues with his familiar classic recipes, but in a brighter, quieter, more sophisticated setting. White tablecloths are a nice touch, though the prices remain reasonable (the menu changes frequently, yet a recent visit found the highest price dish to be filet mignon in Sonoma Merlot sauce with mashed potatoes and vegetables for $25.95). Most everything else stays comfortably below $13.95 and $21.95 for entrées.

While Wong is Vietnamese, his background as a San Francisco caterer and hotel chef trained him in French and Italian cooking. And so he sends out delicious but approachable dishes like porc champignon, poulet de onion confit, prawn risotto and herb-crusted lamb chops in mint Bordelaise sauce. Seared ahi is expertly rare, teamed with artichoke hearts and sun-dried tomatoes, and drunken prawns are particularly good, sautéed and finished with cognac.

Things get much more relaxed at lunch, when it’s a choice of a salad or sandwich, such as field greens in Champagne vinaigrette, roast beef with garlic remoulade on French bread, or prosciutto and dry salame with brie on French bread. If you’ve been craving a pastrami sandwich, this one’s a winner, layered with basil remoulade and tomato on rye (though be sure to request Swiss instead of the American cheese it comes with).The hours still seem to be being worked out—a week ago Chef Patrick’s was open only for weekends, but this week, the hostess promised service for lunch and dinner every day except Wednesday. Your best bet? Call ahead.

Chef Patrick’s. 16337 Main St., Guerneville. 707.869.9161.

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Bleak House

07.29.09

You can’t make this stuff up, and writer-director Armando Iannucci didn’t have to. In the Loop has Iannucci, a well-known figure in British television comedy, doing a scathing sort-of version of the dawn of the Iraq War. Its subject is the forecasting of a war of choice in an unnamed country, based on info from a single dubious informant.

A high-ranking member of the U.S. presidential staff rushes to war and is opposed behind the scenes by a celebrated army officer. James Gandolfini’s Lt. Gen. George Miller is a slobbier, more wrathful version of Colin Powell, profane but nobody’s fool. Mimi Kennedy plays Miller’s best ally, Karen Clarke, a career State Department diplomat with dandruffy hair and teeth that seem to be disintegrating during the middle of a crisis.

Gandolfini and Clarke are In the Loop‘s moral center, the only two people who operate with good will. We want to follow them through this sonata of collapsing spines and raving, swearing political careerists, but Iannucci often just won’t let us.

Chief among the abusers is the White House warmonger, the Rumsfeldian Linton Barwick (David Rasche), a pious creep who keeps a live hand grenade on his desk. Clarke and the state department try to find out his hidden scheme. Meanwhile, across the Atlantic, the British PM’s press secretary Malcolm Tucker (Peter Capaldi) keeps up both fact-finding and fulmination. Tucker is a Scots telephone screamer whose favorite task is calling in underlings to his office for “a bollocking” (a disciplinary session).

Tucker’s two favorite bollockees: Simon Foster (Tom Hollander), a minor MP from an inglorious district, and Foster’s tousled, Ron Weasley&–like aide Toby Wright (Chris Addison). Foster is meant to be a chair-warmer at the U.S./U.K. diplomatic meetings. Unfortunately, the MP grabs unwarranted attention by blurting something out to the press. His words either state or do not state the Britain’s plan to partner with America in its upcoming war.

Foster’s later attempt to restate his misstatement is a fine macramé of words, far too tangled to reknit here. The lines have something to do with the “mountain of conflict” that cannot be anticipated by the speeding aircraft of destiny, a mountain that cannot be predicted, only climbed. Certainly, this diplomatic obfuscation is inspired by Rumsfeld’s “known unknowns” speech, but it is even more slippery.

Thus, these hangdog wooly Brits brave D.C., a den of arrogance and suckling policy wonks: “You should still be at school, having your head shoved down a toilet,” Tucker snarls at one kid.

In the Loop is a relentless festival of wit. When Foster has to go back to the boondocks to meet with his constituents—”from the White House to the shite house”—he’s plagued by a stubborn yokel (Steve Coogan, Iannucci’s partner from his days with the Alan Partridge show). An instructive lesson in the difference between the parliamentary system and whatever it is exactly that we’ve got here in the way of government, this film assures us that international affairs can be hijacked by a man obsessed with the broken retaining wall of his council estate.

Coogan, wearing a wool hat and an air of blocked grievance, is a delight. So is Gandolfini, with his croaking, supersized wrath. His ogreish grimace, as he watches the vile Tucker try to out-macho him, is a serious threat in a film full of empty ones.

At first it seems that Gandolfini has never been so good in a movie, and then it becomes clear that it’s because In the Loop is so very much like TV. It all must have looked great on paper. The scathing verbiage is a gusher. It’s not that the talk is too fast to comprehend (though some will find it so), it’s that it might have been better focused through the smaller screen. A movie needs so much more than cold wit. In the Loop is a case of smartness outsmarting itself. It’s duration keeps you helplessly laughing, but it sends you home with a cold, dismal feeling.

‘In the Loop’ opens Friday, July 31, at the Smith Rafael Film Center (1118 Fourth St., San Rafael; 415.454.1222) and on Friday, Aug. 7, at the Rialto Lakeside Cinemas (551 Summerfield Road, Santa Rosa; 707.525.4840).


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Urban Agro

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07.29.09

Back when she started her weekly “Rev” column about alternative transportation for us in 2003, Novella Carpenter had already planted a garden in the abandoned vacant lot adjacent to her rented West Oakland apartment. Some Rev readers might remember that she and her boyfriend, Bill, were early devotees of biofuels, but what Novella never mentioned in Rev was her odyssey into urban farming under the lee of the thundering I-980.

It’s just as well that she didn’t give all that good stuff away in a mere column, creating Farm City: The Education of an Urban Farmer (Penguin; $25.95) instead. Given a prestigious starred review from Publishers Weekly, Farm City details Carpenter’s adventures learning how to farm on the hard-scrabble pack of a filthy inner city lot. She appears Aug. 2 at Readers’ Books.

Starting with veggies, Carpenter gradually grew to raise chickens, ducks, turkeys, rabbits, goats and even pigs in her backyard. Talking by phone from Los Angeles while on tour, she says that her landlord frankly doesn’t know she’s written a bestselling book about her experience farming his land. When Bill accompanies her on tour, the two ask their downstairs neighbors to take care of the animals and plants. “One of them is from Cuba,” she explains, “and so milking the goats is totally normal. As a young man, he told me that you’re trained to do guerrilla warfare and gardening. Milking in the morning and target practice later in the day.”

While critics are unanimous in their praise of Carpenter’s wit and writing, many have remarked upon her tendency to name, pet, groom and love up her animals before butchering them. “I’ll never be apologetic for that,” she says. “Naming my animals and killing them is more of a philosophical thing than anything else. I think that people are hypocrites if they eat meat but won’t acknowledge where it came from; do they live in some cloudlike static child’s world? I don’t want to be righteous, but if people are offended, let ’em be.”

Teaming up with City Slicker Farms founder Willow Rosenthal, Carpenter’s next book is already at the publisher. Tentatively titled The Essential Urban Farmer, this follow-up will be a how-to guide for those who would like to follow in Carpenter’s soiled footsteps. “This is the book that I wish that I’d had,” she says.

Carpenter is not immune to the irony of her success. “The timing is impeccable,” she says with a rueful chuckle. “The recession really causes people to question what they spend their money on. Our food system is broken, and we’re always hoping that someone will fix it. But there is no one. After a while, you have to realize that you’re the person who’s going to fix things. And after a while,” she says, “it’s really empowering.”

Novella Carpenter reads from and discusses Farm City at Readers’ Books on Sunday, Aug. 2, at 4pm. 130 E. Napa St., Sonoma. Free. 707.939.1779.


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Hot Dog Apple Pie, Oh My!

07.29.09

A good old-fashioned cooking competition is perfect for the long afternoons of summer. They are filled with great food, people sharing their specialties and are usually for a good cause. Featured ingredients such as strawberries, tomatoes or hot sauce might pop to mind—but hot dogs? Yep, hot dogs are the key ingredient at a local competition, and they will be grilled, sautéed, maybe even mashed and served with gravy or paired with fine vanilla-bean ice cream or wine. Frankly, the possibilities for weenies are endless.Last year alone, meat-hungry Americans ate 20 million hot dogs, so for hot dog lover’s, Aug. 9 is a big day. The third annual B’nai Israel Jewish Center Kosher Cook-Off Competition looks outside the bun and serves up hot dogs in unexpected ways. Hot dogs, a staple of barbecue and kosher cuisine, “could not be a more fun main ingredient” says Glenn Laurie of the Jewish Center.

The last competition, in 2007, was such a success that the dogs have returned. Teams of center members have an hour and a half to make an appetizer, entrée and dessert all featuring the key ingredient while attendees sit back enjoy the show that will be emceed by Gina Romeo of Giacomo’s Ristorante and Pizzeria. “You don’t have to have firm buns in order to come to this cook-off,” Laurie jokes.

These aren’t mom’s franks and beans or weenies in mac and cheese recipes, but rather the competition entries have upped the hotdog-fanciness ante. The 2007 judge’s choice included kosher Sonoma sun-dried tomato marmalade with grilled kosher hot dogs and mango sorbet surprise. Surprise=hotdogs? Yes! And then there are people’s choice winners, hot dog paella, kosher hot dog unstuffed cabbage and Mom’s kosher hot dog apple pie. Whodda thunk?

Gourmet tasting kits, full of 18 taste and drink tickets, will be sold so guests can sample all of the ‘dog creations. A silent auction and raffle will also be held. All proceeds support the Jewish Center.

The versatile hot dog—full of magical possibilities. What surprises will you unleash next? Cupcakes? Dare to dream.

Taste the eclectic possibilities of the hot dog, Sunday, Aug. 9, at the B’nai Israel Jewish Center. 740 Western Ave., Petaluma. 11am&–3pm. Free. 707.762.0340

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Letters to the Editor

07.29.09

Unconsidered ‘oyster’?

I’ve recently gone out on the diving board—alone—to sing the praises of the Bohemian’s editorial courage re supporting investigative journalism. Ouch! The thin, under-investigated oyster story by Daniel Hirsch (“Consider the Oyster,” July 15) is my embarrassment.

Hirsch’s “investigation” got him as far as Fred Smith, the good-looking, charming, paid employee of the West Marin Environmental Action Committee. Smith is besotted with the zealots, and the fact that they pay him is determined to kick out the “commercial” biz in the Point Reyes seashore, i.e., Drakes Bay Oyster Company.

Smith overlooked completely the fact that the zealots enthusiastically support tourism in the wilderness. (“Come on down to Drake’s Bay for summer fun!”)

Hirsch swallowed hook line and sinker the aerial-photos propaganda, shown to him no doubt by the talkative petitioner, that appear to be devastating the eel grass. Hello! That narrow channel is the track taken by all small craft to go around the oyster beds. Furthermore, the eel grass has doubled over the years. Oysters do not pollute, Mr. Hirsch. In fact, there are projects nationwide that introduce oysters in order to clean water.

You should have at least talked to Kevin Lunny, the owner of the oyster farm, being the good reporter you are. He is easily accessible.

Why are you so eager to believe the zealots? Why aren’t you asking questions that include: Is this a land grab? Will structures be built to house “wilderness” visitors in the future?

Please visit the oyster farm and see for yourself the low impact, hands-on, Slow Food, environmentally fabulous biz it is. The year-round tourists absolutely adore the oyster farm. Duh!

Johanna Lynch

Cazadero

Daniel Hirsch responds: Thanks so much for your impassioned response to my article. The environmental impact of oysters at Drakes Estero is certainly a complicated issue, and you are correct in pointing out (as my article also does) the long history of disputed and refuted scientific claims. I would have loved to talk with Kevin Lunny about his farm’s practices, but after repeated phone calls to his office, I got word that he had left town for Tahoe and never did return my calls. Given this paper’s history of positive coverage of Mr. Lunny and his business, we let this omission slide for press time. Additionally, I only had the opportunity to speak with Fred Smith over the phone—if we had known Mr. Smith was as charming and as good-looking as you claim, he probably would have been on the cover.

Funny, insightful ‘wretch’

Regarding David Templeton’s “Wretch Like Me” (July 15): It was long. (Maybe too long for a publication?) But I liked it very much. Very insightful. Very funny. Good points made. I’d like to see a performance. I’m sure there are things that one doesn’t pick up from the printed page.

I had a similar experience, having been a “Jesus freak” in college and gradually becoming a rational atheist. So I identified with much of what was said. I thank you for having the chutzpah to publish it. I don’t know how many fundamentalists read the Bohemian, but if any do, I’m sure you’ll get some flak. And thanks to David T. for having the chutzpah to write and perform it.

George Bereschik

Petaluma

Pegasus in the pews

It has been most interesting having Pegasus Theater performing in the sanctuary of the Guerneville Community Church (“Nomad Company,” July 8). For one who is a member of that church, it is amazing to me how Pegasus has been able to transform our sanctuary into a playhouse and then put the altar and cross hanging over it back so we can have Sunday service. The walls of the church are hung with black curtains and the pews are screwed around, but other than that we feel quite normal. If you haven’t seen Driving Miss Daisy, you still have a few days left, and then you really should come to church on Sunday to see the transformation. Congratulations to Pegasus!

Virginie Walsh

Forestville


Dinolove

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Recently, I read an interview with comedienne Kristin Schaal (the hilarious and creepily sexual #1 fan on Flight of the Conchords) in which she stated: “Wolves were so eighties.” Something about this observation struck me as incredibly astute. Their manes of gray and wild eyes could flow nicely with the feathered coifs of any classic 80s hair band. Since reading this decade-animal formulation, it’s been an amusing intellectual exercise/party trick to try and pin down other decades. Schaal wants the aughts to be all about birds, but I’m not sure. What with ensuing global climate change and melting ice caps, I have to give it to habitat-starved polar bears.

Some friends and I recently were arguing about the nineties. There seemed to be a general consensus about marine mammals (Free Willy, all those movies with dolphins). But after some more thought and retrospection to my boyhood, I realize there is only one real animus of the last decade of the twentieth century: dinosaurs.

July 25: Far West Fest at Point Reyes Station

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Nothing says “community radio” quite like KWMR, Marin County’s only radio station, and nothing helps KWMR quite like the annual Far West Fest. Held in the “Love Field” just outside Point Reyes Station, the festival in years past has raised money with appearances by Camper Van Beethoven, Vinyl and Poor Man’s Whiskey. This year things get especially funky with Bay Area legend Lyrics Born tearing up the stage with songs from his latest joint, Everywhere at Once. Once blazing up nightclubs as part of the hip-hop duo Latyrx, Lyrics Born underwent a reinvention as a soul singer around the turn of the century and has since strode full-bore into a syncopated blend of gravel, swagger and spit. Also on the lineup is established songwriter Sean Hayes, whose softer tones should provide a calm before Lyrics Born’s storm, as well as Albino, Red Meat, the Green String Farm Band and others. Food, drink and circus acts round out a lovely way to spend an afternoon in West Marin on Saturday, July 25, at Love Field. 11171 Sir Francis Drake Blvd., Point Reyes Station. 11am–7:30pm. $10–$30. 415.663.8068.Gabe Meline

July 23: Justin Hellman at Bluewater Bistro

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We all watched it, and we all felt our hearts sink like rocks. Tom Watson’s missed putt on 18 at the British Open ended a weekend of improbable hopes and unbelievable excitement, as the 59-year-old golfer maintained a constant lead throughout a weekend that seemed too good to be true. Suddenly, it was pre-Tiger golf, with none of the club-swatting or fist-pumping. Golf as it was played 30 years ago. You know, Watson’s game. Steady, level-headed and gracious even into the brutal unraveling playoff, Watson kept his cool while losing ground out in the rough. Was he thinking about how close he’d been to being the oldest golfer to win a Major? Was he thinking, possibly, about being young again, the way that everyone hopelessly glued to the tournament thought about having one more shot at greatness? Either way, he gave us a hell of a ride. So here’s to Tom Watson. Be sure to raise a glass to him when jazz bassist Justin Hellman performs among the fairways on Thursday, July 23, at Bluewater Bistro. Links at Bodega Harbour Golf Course, 21301 Heron Drive, Bodega Bay. 707.875.3519.Gabe Meline

July 23: At All Costs record release at the Last Day Saloon

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No ghetto blaster in 1986 was complete without three breakdance staples: “Jam on It” by Newcleus, “Roxanne Roxanne” by UTFO and “Rumors” by Timex Social Club. Led by the exasperated narration of the group’s gossip-addled singer, Michael Marshall, “Rumors” was the only one out of the three to fly up the Billboard charts and become a smash hit across the Atlantic. Marshall appears as part of the At All Costs record release show this weekend, which is sure to be a hot time as the Santa Rosa group’s newest album, Delusions of Grandeur, is feted at an all-night party. Special guest Rappin’ 4-Tay, who dominated ghetto blasters in 1994 with “Playaz Club,” will be on the mic, as well as Myra, whose emancipation from her former squeaky-clean Disney girl image has resulted in some relieving electropop from the 22-year-old, locally based Latina singer. It gets crackin’ on Thursday, July 23, at the Last Day Saloon. 120 Fifth St., Santa Rosa. 9pm. $10. 707.545.2343.Gabe Meline

July 23: Renée Fleming at Castello di Amarosa

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Whether they’re aware of it or not, even non–classical music fans know about Renée Fleming. Ever the people’s soprano, she’s been on Sesame Street, was featured in The Lord of the Rings, made albums with Joe Jackson and Brad Mehldau, and sang at the Lincoln Memorial Inaugural Celebration earlier this year. Classical music fans, of course, know her for her silvery, easy operatic voice, which she brings this week to Napa’s Festival del Sole. Fleming was forced to cancel her appearance in Napa three years ago due to last-minute sickness, an unfortunate situation with one silver lining: this year she’ll be singing in the outdoor courtyard at Castello di Amarosa. The castle’s Old World atmosphere is as calming as it is intimate (at last year’s festival, Joshua Bell casually mingled with fans among the masonry), and should be the perfect place to hear one of the finest voices in the world on Thursday, July 23, at Castello di Amarosa. 4045 N. St. Helena Hwy., Calistoga. 6:30pm. $125. 888.337.6272.Gabe Meline

Pat’s Place

07.29.09If you wandered into Pat's Bar in Guerneville the other week, looking to get a bit of fine dining from the adjacent Chef Patrick's, you were out of luck. The chef packed up and left.Yet you needn't go far to find him. Just trot across Main Street and down the block a bit: Chef Patrick's is now serving its...

Bleak House

07.29.09 You can't make this stuff up, and writer-director Armando Iannucci didn't have to. In the Loop has Iannucci, a well-known figure in British television comedy, doing a scathing sort-of version of the dawn of the Iraq War. Its subject is the forecasting of a war of choice in an unnamed country, based on info from a single...

Urban Agro

07.29.09Back when she started her weekly "Rev" column about alternative transportation for us in 2003, Novella Carpenter had already planted a garden in the abandoned vacant lot adjacent to her rented West Oakland apartment. Some Rev readers might remember that she and her boyfriend, Bill, were early devotees of biofuels, but what Novella never mentioned in Rev was her...

Hot Dog Apple Pie, Oh My!

07.29.09A good old-fashioned cooking competition is perfect for the long afternoons of summer. They are filled with great food, people sharing their specialties and are usually for a good cause. Featured ingredients such as strawberries, tomatoes or hot sauce might pop to mind—but hot dogs? Yep, hot dogs are the key ingredient at a local competition, and they will...

Letters to the Editor

07.29.09Unconsidered 'oyster'?I've recently gone out on the diving board—alone—to sing the praises of the Bohemian's editorial courage re supporting investigative journalism. Ouch! The thin, under-investigated oyster story by Daniel Hirsch ("Consider the Oyster," July 15) is my embarrassment.Hirsch's "investigation" got him as far as Fred Smith, the good-looking, charming, paid employee of the West Marin Environmental Action Committee. Smith...

Dinolove

Recently, I read an interview with comedienne Kristin Schaal (the hilarious and creepily sexual #1 fan on Flight of the Conchords) in which she stated: “Wolves were so eighties.” Something about this observation struck me as incredibly astute. Their manes of gray and wild eyes could flow nicely with the feathered coifs of any classic 80s hair band....

July 25: Far West Fest at Point Reyes Station

Nothing says “community radio” quite like KWMR, Marin County’s only radio station, and nothing helps KWMR quite like the annual Far West Fest. Held in the “Love Field” just outside Point Reyes Station, the festival in years past has raised money with appearances by Camper Van Beethoven, Vinyl and Poor Man’s Whiskey. This year things get especially funky with...

July 23: Justin Hellman at Bluewater Bistro

We all watched it, and we all felt our hearts sink like rocks. Tom Watson’s missed putt on 18 at the British Open ended a weekend of improbable hopes and unbelievable excitement, as the 59-year-old golfer maintained a constant lead throughout a weekend that seemed too good to be true. Suddenly, it was pre-Tiger golf, with none of the...

July 23: At All Costs record release at the Last Day Saloon

No ghetto blaster in 1986 was complete without three breakdance staples: “Jam on It” by Newcleus, “Roxanne Roxanne” by UTFO and “Rumors” by Timex Social Club. Led by the exasperated narration of the group’s gossip-addled singer, Michael Marshall, “Rumors” was the only one out of the three to fly up the Billboard charts and become a smash hit across...

July 23: Renée Fleming at Castello di Amarosa

Whether they’re aware of it or not, even non–classical music fans know about Renée Fleming. Ever the people’s soprano, she’s been on Sesame Street, was featured in The Lord of the Rings, made albums with Joe Jackson and Brad Mehldau, and sang at the Lincoln Memorial Inaugural Celebration earlier this year. Classical music fans, of course, know her for...
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