Long Way Home

There are no blues songs on Fight for My Soul, Jonny Lang’s first album in seven years.

Instead, it’s a mix of pop, rock and contemporary R&B that at times sounds more influenced by Michael Jackson than Buddy Guy.

“When I was younger, I thought, ‘I’ll always be a blues guy, so to speak,'” Lang says. “Things just change. You grow up. The songs I write myself have always been different from what people might expect, different from a guitar-centric rockin’ blues record. But I’m sure some people are going to say, ‘Dude, where are all the blues songs and guitar solos?'”

Lyrically, Lang’s making a similar jump, expressed in “Blew Up (The House),” a catchy stomp about a guy who’s hit bottom and is starting fresh. That’s not entirely autobiographical, but Lang says it captures something about him.

“The content is kind of all over the place, from being autobiographical to some stories that are completely fiction that get across a concept or just abstract things,” he said. “There’s a lot of me in it.”

Lang and wife Haylie, whom he married in 2001, have four children and are now at home in Southern California, where Lang puts a priority on being a husband and father rather than living anything resembling a wild life.

“All that has served to tame me,” he says. “It’s really helped me become a better person and maybe not being so self-destructive.’

Lang freely confesses that he headed for excess in the past, when he was a teenager living out the rock and roll dream.

A native of North Dakota, Lang started playing guitar at 12, released his first album at 14, got signed to A&M Records and put out his major label debut Lie to Me in 1997—when he was all of 16.

That record went multiplatinum and Lang was a young star, touring with his heroes, like the Rolling Stones and Buddy Guy, and playing a White House gig for President Clinton in 1999. Now, he says, he’s bringing his most personal music to fans who have followed him for 16 years the best way he knows how—by playing live shows.

Rest assured, Lang will be doing some of his old songs and cranking up the guitar at the shows as well.

“We’re going to do our best to try to span the years and play a little of each era,” he said. “If they let us, we’ll go two hours or more. You can cover a lot in that amount of time. If we have to go shorter than that, it gets a little more difficult. But we’ll try to cover everything.”

Jonny Lang plays Sunday, Jan. 12, at the Uptown Theatre. 1350 Third St., Napa. 8pm. $45–$55. 707.259.0123.

Mice Capades

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From 1980 through 2003, Peter Pyle worked at the Farallon Islands off the coast of Marin. The veteran bird researcher counted seabirds, observed them feeding their young during nesting time, and many times witnessed and recorded great white sharks attacking and killing pinnipeds in the ocean waters surrounding the legendary islands. Pyle worked for the Point Reyes Bird Observatory at the time, and with a rotating team of assistant scientists, he lived in a small house on Southeast Farallon Island, the 357-foot-high crag visible to landlubbers from 30 miles away but off-limits to the general public. They hiked about the rocky shores, received grocery deliveries twice a month, and often fished for lingcod from a small skiff in the hours before dinnertime.

Today, Pyle, now working with the Institute for Bird Populations in Point Reyes, remembers his many seasons at the islands with a strange blend of sweet nostalgia and dread that makes the skin crawl—for the islands, now as then, are crawling with house mice. The animals are non-native, introduced accidentally more than a century ago by boaters, and every summer and fall their population explodes to grotesque numbers on two of the islands—namely, Southeast Farallon Island and an abutting crag called West End that becomes separated from the bigger island at high tide.

“They’re just crawling around everywhere,” says Pyle, who was working with the Point Reyes Bird Observatory during his years of island research. “It’s like some invasion-of-the-rats movie.”

The resident scientists, he says, sometimes kept a small compost heap in back of the house where hundreds of mice could be seen at a glance. Walking about on the rocky landscape, mice peeked out from nearly every crack and burrow. Nights in the old Victorian house were especially unsettling, he recalls. The rodents swarmed though the old dwelling. They skittered about on the counters, knocked over dishes, defecated on the dinner table and tousled sleepers’ hair. Many individuals, Pyle says, have made attempts at controlling the animals using snap traps. Killing 50 a night can be easy, but it’s a futile effort on an island whose mouse population in high season may reach 60,000 to 100,000.

The main problem associated with the Farallon Islands’ mice is a complex of ecological imbalances. For one, the mice prey on two native species that live nowhere else: the camel cricket and the arboreal salamander. The rodents’ presence has also attracted a population of burrowing owls, predators that previously only used the island for brief migratory stopovers but who now, due to the abundance of mice, remain for long periods.

When the mouse population suddenly plummets early each winter, the owls abruptly find themselves with almost nothing to eat. This turns their attention to native birds, in particular the ashy storm-petrel, a rare species that nests on the islands every winter and spring. The owls, according to experts, are slowly whittling away the petrels’ population. But the owls prefer mice, and if only the rodents could be eliminated, the owls, too, might go away.

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For many ecologists associated with the islands, the solution to the matter seems clear: poison the rodents.

“Nobody is happy about maybe having to use poison,” Pyle says. “Nobody wants to do it, but when you weigh the costs against the benefits, it’s probably worth doing.”

The idea is more than an informal conversation topic. In October, the federal Fish and Wildlife Service released a 700-page environmental impact statement discussing the Farallones’ mice and dozens of ways to potentially address the matter. Doug Cordell, a spokesman with the service, says his agency considered a total of 49 different solutions to the infestation, including releasing cats onto the islands, using traps to curb their numbers and checking their fertility using medicine-laced bait. Most of these proposed actions have been dismissed, he says, leaving on the table just three. Two involve poisoning the rodents. The other would be to do nothing at all.

“We wouldn’t move forward with any option that posed more risk to the environment than benefits,” Cordell says. “Our job as an agency is to serve and protect wild lands and wildlife.”

Cordell stresses that the Fish and Wildlife Service currently has “no preferred alternative.”

Yet he describes the mice at the islands as “plague-like” in numbers, and he tells the Bohemian that successful rodent eradication would require removing every single individual mouse from a population. Traps, he says, would likely fail to substantially dent the mice’s numbers. Cats, too, would not catch every last one, and would certainly prey on the Farallones’ birds.

It may sound like an unlikely prospect—eradicating invasive rodents from a place where the ground appears to crawl with them. Yet this has been successfully achieved on many small islands worldwide. For instance, Anacapa Island, off of Santa Barbara, was successfully cleared of rats in 2001 using grain-based pellets laced with a powerful rodenticide called brodifacoum.

This is likely the poison that would be used at the Farallones. A tiny amount would be applied, according to Cordell. He says the pellets under consideration contain just 0.005 percent rodenticide—such a low density, Cordell says, that any bait pellets that drift into the ocean would dissolve and be rendered virtually harmless.

The pellets would not be aimlessly scattered either, according to Jaime Jahncke, a researcher with Point Blue Conservation Science, formerly the Point Reyes Bird Observatory. Jahncke, who backs the poisoning plan, says the pellets would be dropped from a low-flying helicopter and directed away from the tidal zone via a deflector at the mouth of the dispenser. This, he says, would minimize the number of pellets that reach the water.

Even if some pellets do dissolve into the tide pools, it may be unlikely that the marine environment would be effected. Jahncke points to an accidental spill in New Zealand in 2001 that put 15,000 pounds of poison pellets—containing almost a pound of brodifacoum—into a tidal marsh. The event, he says, had virtually no lingering measurable effects. Harvesting of shellfish for consumption was temporarily banned after the accident but was soon green-lighted again by officials.

“And that case involved a closed waterway and a humungous amount of poison placed directly into the water,” says Jahncke, who is also a member of the five-person Gulf of the Farallones National Marine Sanctuary Advisory Council.

By comparison, the proposed poison drop at the Farallones would involve no more than about two tons of pellets containing 1.5 ounces of brodifacoum. If officials opt for another rodenticide called diphacinone—less potent than brodifacoum—they will use about 16,000 pounds of pellets containing up to about a pound of the poison.

Still, opposition to the effort is strong. Jared Huffman has made statements questioning the wisdom of the plan, and the Marin County pest-management company WildCare Solutions is a firm opponent. The general public seems also to be leaning against the idea. Hundreds of written objections to the poisoning plan have been submitted to the Fish and Wildlife Service through its website since August.

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Sean Van Sommeran, a shark researcher based in Santa Cruz, believes rodenticides applied at the Farallones could remain in the environment for long periods.

“They’re pretending this won’t have residual impacts,” says Van Sommeran, the founder and director of the Pelagic Shark Research Foundation. “It’s going to affect seabirds and marine mammals. It’s just going to be one more addition to the contaminants already in the water.” He believes the rodenticide could migrate through the food web and eventually contaminate large predators—like great white sharks, the core of Van Sommeran’s research—much the way that heavy metals find their way into sharks, swordfish and tuna.

There is little doubt that some birds—especially omnivorous western gulls—will eat the pellets and die. But Cordell says casualties could be minimized by scaring away the birds during the poisoning effort. Hazing methods—like using loud explosives and laser pointers to scatter flocks of gulls—have been tested already and proven effective at the islands. Owls, liable to suffer the consequences of eating poisoned mice, would need to be trapped and relocated during the eradication effort, Cordell says.

Eliminating the mice will benefit more than just petrels, says Brad Keitt of Island Conservation, a group based in Santa Cruz. “Removing invasive species has had incredible benefits to islands around the world,” he says. At the Farallones, Keitt says, “the driving issue is to restore the balance of the ecosystem.”

The Farallon Islands have seen non-native species come and go before. The islands were first visited by Russian sailors in the early 1800s, but it’s believed by scientists who have genetically examined the islands’ mice that the rodents were brought later in the century, from mainland American stock. Around the same time, rabbits were released on Southeast Farallon Island. Hundreds of them were still living there in 1971, as were several feral cats, when a scientist named David Ainley first set foot on the island.

“There was a lot of junk out there—sheds and garbage and things,” says Ainley, a Marin City resident who previously worked for the Point Reyes Bird Observatory and, through the 1970s, spent about half his life living on the island. “We got that all cleaned out.”

Ainley helped direct a focused trapping and shooting effort that successfully eliminated the rabbits. Three cats, he says, were captured and sent to the mainland. The mice, however, remained. In fact, removing the rabbits meant more food for the mice, especially the seeds of the many grasses that consequently thrived unchecked. The mouse population soared higher than ever.

“Poisoning is the only chance to get rid of the mice,” Ainley says. But mice, he says, are not easy animals to eradicate, both because they are small and easily able to remain unseen and because they reproduce prolifically. Southeast Farallon Island, at high tide, is roughly 60 acres, Ainley says. “There are infinite cracks and holes that they can hide in.”

Every winter, the Farallones’ mouse population plummets. Pyle explains that the first rains cause millions of small seeds scattered about the islands to germinate. This leaves the mice with nothing to eat. On top of that, winter rainfall tends to flood out their burrows, driving tens of thousands of starving mice into the cold open air.

“They come out of their holes and go wandering around eating each other,” Pyle says.

He feels that eradicating the mice would not just benefit birds but would eliminate immeasurable rodent suffering. So many mice starve each winter on the Farallones that for several months, from March to June, resident researchers don’t see a sign of the animals. Pyle guesses the mouse population bottoms out at perhaps 100 scrawny survivors in the early spring.

“Then the numbers start climbing, and by October it’s mayhem again,” he says.

Any poisoning effort would take advantage of this population cycle by hitting the mice while their numbers are down. The Fish and Wildlife Service has proposed the poisoning to take place in November of 2014, although the service is still considering its options and will release a final environmental impact statement this spring.

Chicken Scratches

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The building started as a produce packinghouse in the 19th century, and held stints as a winery, U.S. Army ammunition warehouse and, from the 1950s, a poultry slaughterhouse. After Fulton Valley Farms closed in 2010, the Fulton facility was vacant—until this month.

Modern track lighting now stands out against the old wooden beams of the high ceiling, and canvases large and small pop with color on the cement walls. The shiny, sloped floors where chicken blood once pooled are now covered by designer shoes and, perhaps, an occasional droplet of wine from an enthusiastic art lover—the former slaughterhouse is now a pop-up art exhibit. (It’s the second such transformation in the county, the other being Slaughterhouse Space in Healdsburg.)

Dubbed the Fulton Art Depot for its proximity to the future SMART rail station, the pop up has been a success with 300 attendees and over 75 artists, including Barbara Elliot (whose work is shown above), responding to a call for work, says Vicky Kumpfer, who helped set up the event. Despite the great response, “A Month of Sundays” will be just that—one month of art exhibits on Sundays. “The space is really raw right now in the sense that the owner is not sure what he’s going to do,” says Kumpfer. “Most likely he will keep it as an artist space.”

Catch “A Month of Sundays” at the Fulton Art Depot Jan. 12, 19 and 26. 1200 River Road, Fulton. 1–5pm. Free. 707.477.0567.

Burrata, Borracho

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Saturday morning at 10am: Leon and I are drunk.

Don’t get me wrong. We’re often quite sober at 10am, no matter the day of the week, but this Saturday was different. Instead of completing some marvelous health-giving exercise like running or yoga, we were sitting in Rosso Pizzeria in Santa Rosa tasting five different types of Sauvignon Blanc while John Franchetti, the man in front of us, taught us how to make cheese.

Each bolstered by the nutritious breakfast splendor of exactly one half of one fresh pear, we had arrived 30 minutes earlier, eager to learn about the mysteries of fresh mozzarella and, particularly, that of burrata. We had forgotten about the wine. Imagine our delight.

We were no burrata virgins, having often ordered it at Rosso. It arrives, gleaming and white on a plate, kissed with excellent olive oil and just a grind of salt. It gives to the knife like an indulgent lover and spreads in a glistening ribbon onto a hot, fresh pizzete.

But we had always thought that burrata was merely super-fresh mozzarella. And it kind of is. Except that it’s super-fresh mozzarella stuffed with three kinds of cheese—including mozzarella. Continue to imagine our delight.

We tasted through our Sauv Blancs, dutifully noting grass and citrus, apples and lemon, asparagus and passion fruit. We chose not to spit.

Chef finally got the cheese part started. Placing a pound of fresh mozzarella curds in a metal bowl, he had his sous add two quarts of boiling, heavily salted water. The curds immediately began to wilt as he stirred until they formed a large gluey ball in the water. Wearing gloves, he began to twist small balloons off the ball, placing them on a plate. He invited the group to come up, put on gloves and twist their own balloons of mozzarella. Leon and I sipped our wine patiently.

And then the burrata began. To make burrata, you first make the stuffing, taking a quarter pound each of ricotta and mascarpone cheese and mixing them together in a large, nonreactive bowl. Then you add a half a pound of mozzarella cheese curds, enough heavy cream to smooth the mixture, olive oil to further the smooth, and salt and pepper to taste. It takes a lot of salt and pepper to make all of this white stuff pop.

Once thoroughly mixed, you make more fresh mozzarella. Only this time, chef pulled out a rolling pin and flattened the gluey ball into a sheet thin enough to see his stainless-steel table through. Cutting the sheet into fours, he mounded the cheese mixture onto each square and rolled them like egg rolls. Molti bene! Burrata.

The apple and grass notes faded miraculously when paired with all the lovely fat that a slice of burrata provides. We sipped and tasted. Leon held my hand. I leaned against his shoulder. The room grew louder as the rest of the group got drunk on a Saturday morning. The class was done.

We walked unsteadily home at 11am, clutching each other against fall’s foul morning light. We sat briefly in the backyard. Leon disappeared into the house and reemerged clutching an excellent bottle of Pinot Noir. He smiled. His teeth glinted sharply in autumn’s sloping yellow glow.

Imagine my delight.

Rosso Pizzeria, 53 Montgomery Drive, Santa Rosa (707.544.3221) and
151 Petaluma Blvd. S. (707.772.5177). To learn of upcoming cheese classes at Rosso, sign up for the email newsletter at www.rossopizzeria.com.

Incarnation

Greetings from future Los Angeles! In Her, director-writer Spike Jonze digitally merges that city with today’s Shanghai. It’s rarely looked better—spread up and out, and crowded but prosperous.

Theodore (Joaquin Phoenix) is a love-letter writer at BeautifulHandwrittenLetters.com, his heart aching as he sits in an office lined with glowing glass panels. Theodore composes little notes for happy couples, and tries to avoid signing the finishing papers on his divorce. One day, he learns of a new OS, a system essentially like the super-powered granddaughter of Siri. The bubbling, flirtatious voice on his pocket-sized computer calls itself Samantha. Theodore has found a new friend, and more.

There are a thousand ways this slip of an idea could have gone wrong. Essential to the success of the romance is Scarlett Johansson’s voice acting. Could it be that the allure of the actress goes so deep that even her voice is rich with it? The other women in the film can’t live up to this invisible imago, even a drabbed-down Amy Adams. Olivia Wilde, as Theodore’s highly demanding date, is a classic example of how a woman can be so beautiful that she’s almost ugly. Just as Samantha is all voice, Rooney Mara, seen in flashback, is the voiceless, moody ex-wife Theodore can hardly bear to think about.

But Samantha isn’t a perfect alternative to other women. She pushes back, withdraws, has flares of temper. This unlikely love story stays believable into a third act, as Samantha grows in strength and consciousness.

The film also has a smooth religious side to it, bearing a subtle metaphor about love as enlightenment; it’s irresistible with its living, compassionate computers, and its fields of skyscrapers glowing with Pacific sunlight. You sort of ache for wanting it to come true.

‘Her’ is now playing in select theaters.

Where’s the Water?

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The driest year in California’s recorded history has passed, and there is no promise that the drought will end any time soon. Some scientists think we are in a mega-drought cycle that could last for many years. We are writing to encourage municipal leadership on this issue, as well as action on the part of every Sonoma County resident.

The specter of extended drought is as scary as the “super storms” happening in other parts of the world. Equally frightening is the silence of our public officials, who have barely acknowledged this crisis nor called for mandatory conservation measures.

While we are told that our county does not need to worry about this unprecedented lack of rain because there is water in Lake Sonoma, the fact is that most of us depend on groundwater reserves for our primary or backup source of water. Water from Lake Sonoma is completely irrelevant to a significant part of our population, including virtually all of our farms and ranches. Even if Lake Sonoma refills this winter, which is highly unlikely, our seriously depleted groundwater reserves will not.

In the 1970s, California experienced a drought less severe than this one, and mandatory conservation measures were enacted in many communities. We stopped watering lawns, washing our cars and sidewalks with hoses, and used low-flow water devices. We let “yellow mellow” and took short showers. These measures made a big difference, and we found we could do just fine using less water.

We call on our supervisors, the Sonoma County Water Agency and the SCWA’s municipal clients to enact mandatory water conservations measures immediately. In addition to prohibitions and fees, there should be incentives for businesses to convert landscapes to low water plantings. Independent water districts and HOAs must mandate conservation measures as well.

And we ask each resident of our county to count every drop of water as the precious, scarce resource it is, and to do your part to adapt to our changing world. Even if there is rain in the next few months, extended droughts are likely in our region. It’s time to make conservation a way of life.

Rachel Kaplan works as a somatic psychotherapist, permaculture gardener and educator. She lives in Petaluma.
Wendy Krupnick teaches, consults and practices organic farming and gardening and is active with several related community groups.

Open Mic is a weekly op/ed feature in the Bohemian. We welcome your contribution. To have your topical essay of 350 words considered for publication, write op*****@******an.com.

Letters to the Editor: January 8, 2014

These Boots Are Made for Strummin’

Thanks for the article on Frankie Boots (“Buckle Up,” Dec. 25). You place Frankie Boots in a line that includes Kate Wolf and other Sonoma County folk-country-bluegrass figures, and rightly so. Indeed there are a number of good local, younger bands that could be placed there: Driftwood, the Bootleg Honeys and Old Jawbone, to name a few.

And, just to fill in a bit more of that history, it’s worth noting that Sonoma County was, indeed, a hotbed of that music for many years. I moved here in 1978 hoping to secure the guitar chair in Kate Wolf’s band (only to find Nina Gerber got there first), but what I discovered was a wealth of talent and band-playing opportunities.

Bluegrass, in particular, was popular during this time. Between the well-known bluegrass bands (Boothill, Eagle Ridge, HiJinks & the High Forehead Boys) and the old-time bands (too many to name), it seemed you could find really good acoustically driven music most nights of the week. In fact, I played bluegrass at a club, now long gone, on Fourth Street called Joe Frogger’s every week. It was a wildly popular club, overrun nightly with fans of that music.

Among local acoustic musicians from that era, some of the names of the best remain vital today: Chris Carney, Layne Bowen, Evan Morgan, Ted Dutcher. And then there’s Chip Dunbar. He was responsible for teaching many, many people the joy of the banjo, guitar, mandolin and singing. Though he passed a few years ago, Chip’s legacy lives on with groups like the Mighty Chiplings, so named to honor their first important teacher in this music.

And we shouldn’t forget important venues like the Inn of the Beginning in Cotati, concert home to many of the important figures in acoustic music. I remember seeing David Grisman (with a fresh-faced young singer who went on to some Nashville fame, Vince Gill), David Bromberg, Doc Watson (who politely requested that folks refrain from smoking so he could sing), Norman Blake and Bay Area bluegrass icon Laurie Lewis. I could go on and on.

So, yes, let’s hoist a glass and honor those great musicians here in Sonoma County who have always entertained us, educated us and endured with us the comings and goings of fashions and the closure of clubs that support this music.

A final tip of the hat to Sheila Groves down at the new Twin Oaks in Penngrove. Looks like country-bluegrass (i.e., Americana) may have a new home in Sonoma County.

Santa Rosa

Women and Prowling

Bravo to all of the contributors to this piece (“So Long, 2013!,” Jan. 1). You did a great job summarizing some of the most important issues that captured the spotlight and imaginations of the people of Sonoma County last year.

But I must clarify something. You report that Ms. Darling says that nobody is talking about the effect that Efren Carrillo’s conduct has had on women. This is not entirely true. While I (and others) perceived a dearth of outcry of shock and disgust from the women in this county for a time after this shameful incident occurred, that all changed at the second meeting held by the Citizens for Accountability, which was held at the Sebastopol Grange a week before Thanksgiving.

At that time, several women, one by one, got up out of their chairs, bravely faced the members of the large crowd and spoke of their own past unrelated experiences and how hearing about Carrillo’s reprehensible conduct in the early morning hours of July 13, 2013, violated their right to feel safe in their own home. Then, at the third meeting held by the Citizens for Accountability, several women once again rose up out of their chairs, took the mic and expressed similar feelings.

Also, it should be pointed out that I and others have been raising this issue since day one of this incident; in fact, I wrote a letter to this publication, which was published, identifying the real victim as the woman who, at 3:40 in the morning on July 13, was so terrified by Efren Carrillo’s actions that she found it necessary to call 911, not once but twice.

I will reiterate once again that I stand with this victim and hope that she will avail herself of each and every opportunity that may become available to her in her personal pursuit of justice. And it is my sincere hope that she is receiving the support that she needs to get her through this most trying time.

Sebastopol

Write to us at le*****@******an.com.

Keep Calm

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As the first day of 2014 wound to a close, a mysterious fire destroyed part of a tent, photos and other sacredly infused objects at a large Moorland Avenue memorial to Andy Lopez, at the site where the 13-year-old boy was shot and killed by Sonoma County Deputy Sheriff Erick Gelhaus on Oct. 21.

Speculation about the fire’s origins immediately set the community on edge. In a letter addressed to retired Santa Rosa Police Department chief Tom Schwedhelm (he stepped down Dec. 20) and Sheriff Steve Freitas, dated Jan. 2 and sent via overnight delivery, Lopez family attorney Arnoldo Casillas wrote, “The first-hand accounts I have received indicate that the fire appears to be intentionally set.” Casillas continued: “The intentional burning of the monument represents a threat against the parents of Andy Lopez based upon their race/ancestry/national origin and is
a blatant act of intimidation. . . .” In the letter’s conclusion, he requested that officials undertake a “hate crime investigation.”

Other activists and community members soon leapt to the conclusion that the fire had been set with some sort of malicious intent; with tensions running high since the shooting and Gelhaus’ subsequent return to work—despite calls for his ouster—the assumptions are somewhat understandable. But it may be time for cooler heads to prevail. A daylong investigation by arson investigators from four agencies determined that the fire was started accidentally—most likely by a burning candle at the center of the memorial structure. Central Fire Authority chief Doug Williams told the Press Democrat that no evidence of accelerants, such as gasoline, were found at the site. Plans are in the works to rebuild the memorial.

Meadowcroft Wines

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Despite a steady drumbeat of press insisting that Riesling is a dry, dry, dry wine, I’m told that the most common remark among visitors to this tasting room is surprise that it is not always sweet. This after decades of well-intentioned incantations against the enduring infamy of cheap Liebfraumilch. But instead of despairing, perhaps it’s time to stop chanting that tune and accept that when the gods made Riesling, they gave it the noble stuffing to make both excellent sweet and dry wines. Meadowcroft has got your palate covered either way, and bless ’em for that.

All three in the current Riesling lineup are sourced from Borden Ranch in Lodi. Neither brisk with acidity nor deeply aromatic, they’ve got their own charms—with the 2011 Reserve Riesling ($26), it’s spicy orange tea aromatics and dry pear and peach juice flavors; chamomile tea, Sweet Tarts for the 2012 Thomas Henry Riesling ($18), named for winemaker Tom Meadowcroft’s father. The unfashionably sweet treat is the 2011 Foyt Riesling ($32), made for the family of four-time Indy 500 winner A. J. Foyt, but even this is really half-dry.

The tasting room inhabits a freestanding shack at the entrance to Cornerstone Sonoma, the diverting complex of sculpture gardens and antiquey-boutiquey shops whose signature feature was once a big, blue tree. Today, look for plastic snowmen. The atmosphere is casual, there’s stuff to buy and a big, sleeping dog to step around, and a comfortably furnished deck upon which to lounge.

At first sombre with mulchy notes shrouding pie-crust aromas, the 2011 Bonneau Vineyard Sonoma County Chardonnay ($26) brightens up for a rich, butterscotchy finish. Reds begin with a stewed Pinot and a rustic Sangiovese, picking up a bit at the 2011 Knight’s Valley Zinfandel ($28), a juicy and round enough claret. Meadowcroft’s main event is the 2010 Mt. Veeder Estate Cabernet Sauvignon ($75). Like a lot of producers’ top Cabs, however, it displays obvious, promising quality with its dusty and well-knit finish and somewhat reduced, young and weedy aromas, but is not currently as much fun as the runner-up 2010 Oak Knoll Cabernet Sauvignon ($50), with its plush, cranberry-black cherry liqueur flavors. As for tawny hue and treacly, the chocolate liqueur smack of the port-style “All She Wrote” Cabernet ($36 for 500 milliliters) is just as delicious and sweet as it’s supposed to be.

Meadowcroft Wines, 23574 Hwy. 121, Sonoma. Daily, 11am–5pm. Tasting fee, $5–$10. 707.934.4090.

Taking the Bait

‘Pretty much from the word go, from note one, we do our best to give the audience an action-packed show,” says Reel Big Fish drummer Ryland Steen in a recent phone interview. “These days, you want to leave a show feeling like you’ve been somewhere. We do our best to give them a fun show, that kind of experience, and the music, universally, just makes people go crazy.”

For Steen, a native of Lincoln, Neb., playing fast-paced ska-punk was at first a challenge. “Growing up, I had knowledge of reggae music, but I didn’t know anything about original ska, much less the third wave of ska music that Reel Big Fish came out of,” he says. “It took me a couple years before I really felt comfortable.” Reel Big Fish play Jan. 7 at the Phoenix Theater.

The band enjoyed a surge in the late 1990s, when groups such as No Doubt and Sublime helped push ska to the forefront of the alternative rock scene. “Sell Out,” the single from the group’s 1996 album Turn the Radio Off, reached number 10 on Billboard’s modern rock chart, and the video saw considerable play on MTV. But the popularity of ska-punk proved brief, and Reel Big Fish never again cracked the upper tier of the rock charts.

After 20 years, singer Aaron Barrett is the only remaining original member of the band. Steen will soon mark his eighth year in the band.

“They go by in a blur,” he says. “When I first joined the band I thought, ‘I’ll be in it for a year or two.’ Eight years later, I feel really lucky to be in this band and to have it turn into the experience it’s become.

“Being able to be on a bus and tour the world six or seven months a year is so great,” Steen continues. “Wherever we go, we seem to have a great group of people to see the show, at every show. Because we’ve toured so much, the band has built its reputation on the live show. We try to bring it every night, and the people always do. We feed off of that.”

Reel Big Fish play Tuesday, Jan. 7, at the Phoenix Theater.
201 E. Washington St., Petaluma. 7:30pm. $20–$23. 707.762.3565.

Long Way Home

There are no blues songs on Fight for My Soul, Jonny Lang's first album in seven years. Instead, it's a mix of pop, rock and contemporary R&B that at times sounds more influenced by Michael Jackson than Buddy Guy. "When I was younger, I thought, 'I'll always be a blues guy, so to speak,'" Lang says. "Things just change. You grow...

Mice Capades

From 1980 through 2003, Peter Pyle worked at the Farallon Islands off the coast of Marin. The veteran bird researcher counted seabirds, observed them feeding their young during nesting time, and many times witnessed and recorded great white sharks attacking and killing pinnipeds in the ocean waters surrounding the legendary islands. Pyle worked for the Point Reyes Bird Observatory...

Chicken Scratches

The building started as a produce packinghouse in the 19th century, and held stints as a winery, U.S. Army ammunition warehouse and, from the 1950s, a poultry slaughterhouse. After Fulton Valley Farms closed in 2010, the Fulton facility was vacant—until this month. Modern track lighting now stands out against the old wooden beams of the high ceiling, and canvases large...

Burrata, Borracho

Saturday morning at 10am: Leon and I are drunk. Don't get me wrong. We're often quite sober at 10am, no matter the day of the week, but this Saturday was different. Instead of completing some marvelous health-giving exercise like running or yoga, we were sitting in Rosso Pizzeria in Santa Rosa tasting five different types of Sauvignon Blanc while John...

Incarnation

Greetings from future Los Angeles! In Her, director-writer Spike Jonze digitally merges that city with today's Shanghai. It's rarely looked better—spread up and out, and crowded but prosperous. Theodore (Joaquin Phoenix) is a love-letter writer at BeautifulHandwrittenLetters.com, his heart aching as he sits in an office lined with glowing glass panels. Theodore composes little notes for happy couples, and tries...

Where’s the Water?

The driest year in California's recorded history has passed, and there is no promise that the drought will end any time soon. Some scientists think we are in a mega-drought cycle that could last for many years. We are writing to encourage municipal leadership on this issue, as well as action on the part of every Sonoma County resident. The...

Letters to the Editor: January 8, 2014

These Boots Are Made for Strummin' Thanks for the article on Frankie Boots ("Buckle Up," Dec. 25). You place Frankie Boots in a line that includes Kate Wolf and other Sonoma County folk-country-bluegrass figures, and rightly so. Indeed there are a number of good local, younger bands that could be placed there: Driftwood, the Bootleg Honeys and Old Jawbone, to...

Keep Calm

As the first day of 2014 wound to a close, a mysterious fire destroyed part of a tent, photos and other sacredly infused objects at a large Moorland Avenue memorial to Andy Lopez, at the site where the 13-year-old boy was shot and killed by Sonoma County Deputy Sheriff Erick Gelhaus on Oct. 21. Speculation about the fire's origins immediately...

Meadowcroft Wines

Despite a steady drumbeat of press insisting that Riesling is a dry, dry, dry wine, I'm told that the most common remark among visitors to this tasting room is surprise that it is not always sweet. This after decades of well-intentioned incantations against the enduring infamy of cheap Liebfraumilch. But instead of despairing, perhaps it's time to stop chanting...

Taking the Bait

'Pretty much from the word go, from note one, we do our best to give the audience an action-packed show," says Reel Big Fish drummer Ryland Steen in a recent phone interview. "These days, you want to leave a show feeling like you've been somewhere. We do our best to give them a fun show, that kind of experience,...
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