Taste of Summer

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The family at Crane Melon Barn has harvested their sweet and juicy Crane melons for some 85 years. The season runs from about
Sept. 1 to the end of October, and this year the descendants of the original Cranes will have melons for sale once again. They also sell yellow-meat watermelons that taste like honey. Both the Crane melons and the watermelons are vine-ripened and locally grown.

Sonoma County residents probably know the aroma and flavor of the Crane melon, but probably aren’t as familiar with the yellow watermelons grown in the same field. “In Texas, most watermelons are yellow,” Rick Crane says. “We’ve giving Northern Californians a taste of Texas.”

As with other fruits, it’s helpful to know how to select a good melon. The softness or hardness of the rind is a useful indicator. So is the color. If it’s golden, it’s probably ripe. Like Gravenstein apples, Crane melons offer a small window of opportunity. It’s best to call ahead for availability.

Crane and his wife, Cindy, practically live in the barn seven days a week during harvest. “It’s hard work, but I look forward to it,” Cindy Crane says. “There’s nothing better than selling a product with your name on it that you feel passionate about.”

Crane Melon Barn. 4935 Petaluma Hill Road, Santa Rosa. 707.795.6987.

‘Kill Me’ Now

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In much the same way that punk was a musical revolution, the definitive book about punk was
a literary one. With its modernization of the oral history tradition—telling its 424-page story entirely in a string of quotes that form a solid, winding narrative—Please Kill Me: The Uncensored Oral History of Punk revolutionized both the book industry and the way we think about storytelling when it was published in 1996.

Despite its gritty, grimy subject matter (or, more accurately, because of it), Please Kill Me was sublimely elegant in the way it matched form to content. Finally, here was a book about punk that reflected the actual spirit of the movement by representing its subjects’ words as directly as possible, with a minimum of filters or interference from the authors. It took nonfiction back to its primal urges.

Perhaps the book’s mix of iconoclasm and literary ambition makes sense considering it was co-authored by two writers with very different backgrounds, but a surprising like-mindedness. One, Legs McNeil, is the man some credit with giving punk music its name in the first place, when he founded Punk magazine in 1975.

He started it with cartoonist John Holmstrom and publisher Ged Dunn, and together they provided a fledgling New York scene led by the Ramones, Patti Smith and Richard Hell (and eventually also British bands like the Sex Pistols) with a unifying concept. His co-author, Gillian McCain, was the program coordinator of the Poetry Project at St. Mark’s Church—famed for its connections to Smith, Jim Carroll, William Burroughs and other punk poets beginning in the 1970s—from 1991 to 1995, roughly the same time that they worked on Please Kill Me.

After hundreds of interviews with everyone from icons like the late Lou Reed and Iggy Pop to lesser-known scene stealers like former “company freak” record exec Danny Fields and filmmaker Bob Gruen, the result was the bestselling book ever about punk music, which has been published in 15 languages around the world.

Now, as Grove Atlantic prepares the 20th-anniversary edition of Please Kill Me, the book sits side by side with the dozens of imitators it has spawned, everything from similarly focused music books like We Got the Neutron Bomb: The Untold Story
of L.A. Punk
; Grunge Is Dead:
The Oral History of Seattle Rock Music
; and Louder Than Hell:
The Definitive Oral History of Metal
to general-pop-culture megahits like Live from New York: An Uncensored History of Saturday Night Live by Tom Shales and Andrew James Miller, and their follow-up Those Guys Have All the Fun: Inside the World of ESPN (about which a fictionalized major film adaptation was recently announced). The oral-history craze has reached such a fever pitch—and, perhaps, level of absurdity—that the July issue of Vanity Fair features the “definitive oral history” of the movie Clueless.

So why isn’t Legs McNeil proud of blazing a trail for this new wave of 21st-century oral histories?

“They sucked,” says McNeil by phone from L.A., where he and McCain are working on a new oral history book about the ’60s rock scene there. “I wish someone would do a good oral history. At least as good as Please Kill Me, you know?”

McCain, on the same phone call, is more diplomatic. “When I look at just the punk books that have come out as oral histories, not even oral history music books, I think there’s a hundred, literally. It’s just unbelievable,” she says. “So Legs may not be proud that we were the trailblazers, but I am.”

FIRST PERSON SINGULAR

McNeil’s stance may sound like punk posturing, but actually the pair adhered to some strict rules while doing Please Kill Me that later imitators have often ignored, usually to their detriment.

“We refuse to cheat,” says McCain, “where we’d have a piece of prose in between two people talking. ‘And then so and so went to blah blah blah.’ To me, that’s cheating.”

McNeil says the demanding structure of oral histories is what makes them so easy to screw up. With no exposition to support them, the quotes have to weave a tight narrative.

“They’re really difficult,” he says. “Oral histories are like rock and roll itself—very, very fascistic and anal. Seriously. Once you break the formula, no matter what you’ve done up till that point, the whole thing falls apart. It’s not like you can make a mistake. You know, like in memoirs there are shitty chapters where the guy goes off on his cat or his mother or something, and you go with that because it’s going to get good again. But in an oral history you can’t have that, because it’ll collapse.”

Please Kill Me established a blueprint for understanding the punk movement that has been followed by almost every book since, with the Velvet Underground as the first real protopunk band, and Lou Reed as the godfather of punk. While the Velvets were already widely accepted as punk progenitors by the ’90s (with no small amount of credit going to the 1990 cover album Heaven & Hell: A Tribute to the Velvet Underground, which kicked off the tribute-record craze), the actual story of how punk evolved from band to band through New York and Detroit had never really been told.

But the book’s framing device—beginning with the Velvet Underground starting out in Andy Warhol’s Factory scene, and ending with the band’s reunion in 1992—was something that developed over time. Finding such a framework was key, since the origins of punk could be said to stretch all the way back to the beginning of rock itself; just look at how the Sex Pistols worshipped Eddie Cochran, or how the Cramps covered the Johnny Burnette Trio and the Count Five.

[page]

“It wasn’t easy, because we started interviewing people from [’60s garage band] ? and the Mysterians,” says McCain. “So we weren’t sure we weren’t going to go that avenue, but it ended up we didn’t. There’s so many garage bands. And the people around the Velvet Underground were in the narrative later, so they were part of this intertwining—with Iggy, and Lou on the cover of Punk magazine. But with the garage bands, there was no interconnectedness.”

“What we did in Please Kill Me was we showed the linkage from the Velvet Underground to the Stooges,” says McNeil. “Nico moves in with Iggy, John Cale produces Iggy’s first album. We kind of mapped it all out, and every punk book has taken that formula. And no one has ever said, ‘Hey, thanks for connecting the dots!'”

“I think a lot of people give us credit,” counters McCain. “Often in the acknowledgements, they’ll say, ‘We want to thank Legs McNeil and Gillian McCain for turning us on to this format.'”

“Well,” grumbles McNeil, “maybe they should have bought us dinner.”

SCRAP MEDDLE

The dynamic between McCain and McNeil is a fascinating one.

One of McCain’s earliest memories of meeting McNeil speaks volumes about their dynamic.

“We had a mutual friend, and she said, ‘I’m going over to Legs’ to watch a movie.’ And we became friends. He lived on St. Mark’s and First [Avenue], and I was working at the Poetry Project at Second Avenue and 10th, so he’d drop by the office,” she recalls. “He’d come to readings and really drive me nuts, because during a poetry reading he’d be standing at the back, and whenever he’d move the least little bit, his leather jacket would creak. It just drove me insane. That’s how we met.”

“It was a doomed relationship,” says McNeil drily. “She does a great imitation of me coming to the Poetry Project. I’d go, ‘Let’s go out for a cigarette,’ and then I’d split. I was always embarrassing her.”

Disagreements over who and what would make it into the book could be contentious, but McCain says McNeil was able to make tough editing decisions that she couldn’t bear.

“Legs really forced me to edit,” she says. “At first I was like, ‘No, I want to put in Ed Sanders learning semiotics at grad school at NYU.’ And he was like, ‘No.’ ‘But it’s so good!’ ‘No.'”

“Gillian and I argue a lot,” says McNeil. “If Gillian really sticks to her guns, then I have to scratch my head and go, ‘Whoa, wait a minute . . .” I’m pretty forceful, and I have a pretty strong personality. But Gillian seems to be able to cut through the bullshit.”

For all of their differences, he’s surprised at how much they think alike, which comes out especially when they do interviews together.

“We always look at each other knowingly,” says McNeil. Also, we never use notes, which is really weird. The person stops talking, and we both come in at the same time with the same question. That happens about 85 percent of the time.”

“That’s true,” says McCain. “I think that’s something that makes people comfortable, that we don’t bring in notes. We just have conversations with them. Sometimes I have a few notes on a Post-it that I put in my pocket, and when I go to the bathroom, I look at it.”

“I always lose my scrap of paper,” McNeil says. “But since I’ve written it down, I know what it is.”

McCain credits McNeil with eliciting many of the stories that made Please Kill Me both shock and amuse. The book is full of them: Nico giving Iggy Pop his first STD. Billy Murcia of the New York Dolls choking to death in a flat in London while partygoers around him flee. Dee Dee Ramone writing “Chinese Rocks” out of spite toward Richard Hell, but then giving Hell a co-writing credit for it because he wrote two lines. Malcolm McLaren on the differences between New York punk and the Sex Pistols.

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“I learned so much from Legs,” says McCain. “He gets on the phone with Malcolm McLaren and goes, ‘First off, I don’t want to talk about the Sex Pistols.’ And Malcolm McLaren is so fucking relieved! He asks him questions about the New York Dolls, which he was probably rarely asked about before Please Kill Me. And then gradually the Sex Pistols come up, but he’s more engaged, because he didn’t think he had to talk about it.”

“You disarm people,” admits McNeil. “You’ve got to be immediately intimate with them. Because you’re going to ask them everything. You’re going to have to ask them who they’re sleeping with, what drugs they were taking, what they were thinking, what their emotional state was at the time.”

Still, McNeil says he has yet to interview someone who was reluctant to talk.

“I think for a lot of people it’s almost like therapy. They’re really into telling their story,” he says. “It’s kind of fascinating.”

TOO TOUGH TO SELL

McNeil’s experimentation with the unfiltered style of Please Kill Me can be traced, to some extent, back to his time with Punk magazine.

“Kind of with the Q&A interviews, which were hysterically funny,” he says. “Holmstrom would do things like in the first Lou Reed interview, Lou was talking about his favorite cartoonists, and John drew him in the different styles, like Wally Wood. It was very cool. We did things like when I interviewed Richard Hell at Max’s and I passed out—and Richard kept talking. Stuff like that. That was fun, you know?”

Both McNeil and McCain were inspired by Edie: American Girl, the 1982 oral history of Edie Sedgwick by Jean Stein and George Plimpton. Though a bestseller and critically acclaimed for the groundbreaking exposition-free style that anticipated Please Kill Me, it failed to have the same cultural impact. McNeil, however, saw its potential.

“He started doing a book with Dee Dee [Ramone],” says McCain. “Dee Dee asked him to write his autobiography with him. Legs had the idea, because he loved Edie, to do it as an oral history. So he was getting Danny [Fields]’s interviews transcribed, and all these people, and I said to him, ‘This story is so much bigger than Dee Dee. He’s a seminal character, but it’s just such a huge story.’ Then Dee Dee got kind of hard to get along with, and when they parted ways, Legs was like, ‘Do you want to do this with me?’ So that’s how it started.”

Considering that Please Kill Me would go on to have a huge impact on the book industry, it’s ironic that publishers showed no interest in the project at first. Despite 1991 being “the year punk broke,” as one documentary title put it, with the success of Nirvana’s Nevermind and pop-punk bands like Green Day and the Offspring storming the radio in 1994, a book about punk was still a tough sell back then. And it certainly didn’t help that it was an oral history, a literary genre associated with Studs Terkel books about old-timey things like the Great Depression and World War II.

“We knew we wouldn’t be able to sell it on just a proposal and a chapter, because people wouldn’t get it. Not only the subject matter, but also the oral-history format. So we had written the whole book before we tried to sell it,” says McCain.

The exhausting interview schedule had some out-there moments, like the interview with former Stooges guitarist Ron Asheton, which McNeil counts among his favorites.

“We did like 10 hours in one sitting. Drinking milk and vodka or some weird thing,” says McNeil. “I was just listening to him, and he’s talking to his cats through the whole thing. ‘Leave her alone, Patches!'”

The great white whale for the two of them was Iggy Pop. “We purposefully wanted to leave him for last, because we wanted to be able to ask really informed questions,” says McCain.

Iggy ended up being McCain’s favorite interview that she did with McNeil.

“I think we ask questions in a certain way that maybe makes people think about things in a different way, or reminds them of certain things. That was our goal, to get stories other people hadn’t. But when you ask a question [to Iggy Pop] like, ‘OK, you’re at the Yost Field House. You’ve stolen some IDs.’ This is how Legs framed it. ‘You’re 14 years old, and you see Jim Morrison come onstage. How do you feel?’ I don’t think many people have framed questions like that. That’s why we wanted to do him at the very end, so we totally knew what we were talking about.”

McNeil went on to co-write another oral history book,
2005’s The Other Hollywood:
The Uncensored Oral History of the Porn Film Industry
. But for that one, he worked with Jennifer Osborne and Peter Pavia. He and McCain didn’t work together again until they co-edited Dear Nobody: The Real Life Diary of Mary Rose, a collection of a teenager’s journal entries that came out last year. They then began work on ’69, the Please Kill Me–like oral history of L.A. rock they hope to finish in two years.

McNeil attributes the long gap between their collaborations to the ragged ending of their work on Please Kill Me.

“We were just exhausted,” he says. “And Gillian hated me. Understandably. I think she had a nervous breakdown after. I think working with me sent her over the edge.”

But she did come around.

“Well, yeah,” says McNeil, “but after 20 years.” She forgot the hard parts, he says.

And now, on the new book? McNeil laughs. “I reminded
her.”

Bacon Meets Tomato 

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If it wasn’t for the tomato, the BLT sandwich would be a four-season delight. But the tomatoes must be fresh, which limits when the sandwich is available.

The BLT doesn’t just depend on the tomato. It serves as a stage on which to display it and as a way to enjoy one of the best parts of summer.

The ideal tomato is one that requires you to wear a bib when you eat the sandwich. But in addition to its refreshing juices, the tomato brings a cocktail of flavors that interact with the BLT’s other ingredients, including the mayo and bread, which are so essential that they can go without mention in the sandwich’s name. After all, if it is a sandwich, then there is bread and there is mayo. I believe onions fall into this category as well. But nobody wants to say BLOMBT.

According to current theory on taste perception, the human body is wired to detect at least five basic tastes: salty, sweet, sour, umami and bitter. Impressively, a BLT contains all of these.

Most of these tastes are easy to detect, but the amount of bitter, which happens to be the only basic taste to which people often object, is low. Slight bitter notes come from the lettuce, onion and the mustard powder that’s in most mayo formulations, and at these low levels they add an earthy base to the BLT without making the sandwich itself taste bitter.

Tomatoes contribute sweet and sour, as well as a surprising amount of umami, to the equation. Umami is measured by the amount of free glutamate, the levels of which are high in a ripe tomato.

Tomatoes also interact spectacularly with the BLT’s other ingredients, including salt and fat, which bacon contributes. Fat, while not officially recognized as a basic taste, might be on the verge of becoming one. Whether or not it’s an official basic taste, there’s no question that fat makes things taste better.

Mayonnaise is mostly fat, but like the BLT, it contains every basic taste: sweet (most recipes have some added sweetener), sour (from the lemon or vinegar), bitter (from the mustard powder) umami (from egg yolk) and salt. Mayo also provides an important layer of lubricant that helps all of these layers merge together in your mouth. And like the bacon, onion and lettuce, mayonnaise mixes harmoniously with the tomato.

Bread contributes sweet, salt and umami tastes to the overall flavor of the sandwich, but its most important attribute is to function as a skin that holds the other ingredients together long enough for you to eat them. Tomatoes, along with the mayo, undermine the bread’s job by soaking through the bread and destroying its structural integrity. This is why the bread is usually toasted.

BLT lovers—and lovers of all sandwiches, really—would benefit from an elegant trick that I learned from a farmer friend. Toast one side of each slice of bread and position the two sides facing inward, where they can withstand the onslaught of tomato and mayo. The untoasted sides face the outside, where they’re soft as white gloves on the inside of your mouth.

To toast just one side of each slice, you can either squeeze two slices into the same toaster slot, or arrange them side-by-side under the broiler.

It’s hard to mess up a BLT. Just don’t burn the bacon or toast.
Add avocado if you wish. Use whatever bread you want, and be very picky about the tomatoes. And most important, don’t use Miracle Whip.

Squeeze Boxers

‘Here comes the accordionist in his Cadillac!” This sentence may actually be heard Aug. 22 and 23 at the 25th anniversary of the festival that made Cotati famous—the Cotati Accordion Festival. Today, millionaires and paupers play the supple instrument side-by-side at the fest’s famous “Lady of Spain” ring.

It’s two days of music—three, if you count a riotous kick-off with this year’s honorary director Maggie Martin and her act the Mad Maggies at the Lagunitas Brewery in Petaluma on Friday afternoon. The bizarrely costumed Great Morgani and squeezebox phenoms from Moldova, Sergiu Popa and Stas Venglevski, are on the roster. There’s 11 hours of polka in a tent with a wooden dance floor where the music is sweet and Slovenian, as well as a Saturday-night performance by immortal push-polka demons Polkacide (of which Ms. Martin was once a member).

Slavic and Latin Americans lead the pack of maestros, but there’s also yodeling cowpoke Sourdough Slim and a reunion of the multi-accordion ensemble Those Darn Accordions. (One never hears of an Everest mishap without thinking of TDA’s Alpine tune “There’s Another Dumbass on the Mountain.”) The headliners of the next 25 years will be performing in a student showcase nearby at the social hall of the Church of the Oaks.

The fest has survived changing times, and even a spot of trouble: the recent conviction of one of the festival’s longtime producer Scott Paul Goree on drug charges. (Goree used the Breaking Bad defense, claiming that medical bills drove him to crime.) But this destination festival has popularized the accordion in all its manifold form—from portable 10-button Cajuns to back-breaking three-and-a-half-octave behemoths.

“The accordion is re-emerging from the forgotten,” says Maria Protopopov of the band A2TV (two accordions, one tuba, one violin), who will be featured at the fest. “And now, thanks to Roland, they have electronics.”

Accordions were once scarce, but today they flood the market, even inexpensively made Chinese numbers from eBay (including a Cotati brand, which I happen to own).

I realized the jokes were over as of this January, when some blue-dyed pixie named Joey Cook played accordion on American Idol. J-Lo gave Ms. Cook one of her richest smiles, instead of screaming, “Get that agony-box off my stage, pronto!” as she would have once upon a time.

Foxy Chard

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Once upon a time there was a little fox, and he was so thirsty. But no matter how he tried to grab a nice cold bottle of Chardonnay from the refrigerated wine aisle, he just couldn’t reach it. “Oh, who needs it, anyway,” he said scornfully as he slinked away. “It’s probably just that same old, oaky, buttery ‘Cali’ Chardonnay.”

With an attitude like that, little fox, you could miss out on some decent 2013 Chardonnays: some oaky and buttery, some not. Just please don’t call it “Cali.”

Frank Family 2013 Carneros Chardonnay ($35) Mix the lemon with the melted butter and slather it on the artichoke, freeze this and make ice cream out of it, and you’ve almost captured this wine’s cool aroma. Add county-fair caramel apple—artisanal caramel apple, as we’re in Napa—and a soft cotton-candy palate, and you’re getting close to this vegetal, woody, but likable wine that might take well to roast chicken with capers.

Jordan 2013 Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($30) Unlike Jordan’s 2012, which evoked oak like a page out of a scratch-and-sniff book, the 2013 is just a little nutty on the nose, with liquid golden raisin and searing Eureka lemon fighting for the palate. Extreme citrus wins the round, and the lingering aftertaste settles into a characteristic that polite people call “leesy.” (Lees are the spent yeast and muck that settle to the bottom of the barrel after fermentation—winemakers often stir them up.) Interesting turn, and a palate-awakener for rich meals.

Educated Guess 2013 Carneros Chardonnay ($17) Here, it’s a cool, oak-flavored ice cream aroma that starts the show—Ben & Jerry’s Quirky Quercus? Also, a vanilla scoop astride an apple tart, with tangy papaya and melon on the finish. Warming up, the toasty, caramelized wood notes bring certain lighter expressions of Islay single malt to mind. Educated Guess got it right on this one.

Buena Vista 2013 Carneros Chardonnay ($20) To be “golden” is a good thing in contemporary lingo, and that’s what this Chard is: an alchemy of oak, baked apple fruit and glazed almond cookie notes. It just tastes “golden.”

Napa Cellars 2013 Napa Valley Chardonnay ($22) A nice balance between pink grapefruit, hints of caramel and toast, dried herbs and leesy notes. Even with Chardonnay, it’s possible to be middle-of-the-road without being boring.

Menage à Trois 2013 California Chardonnay ($12) In a world where movie theater popcorn meets butterscotch candy, and cloying peanut brittle flavors mix with nutty wood notes, one sweet, smooth and simple wine is Exhibit A in “California Chardonnay.”

Highway to Shell

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Anyone who’s ever driven up scenic Highway 1 through Marshall on a weekend knows this:
the parking scene at the Tomales Bay Oyster Company is chaotic.

Cars are everywhere along the road, some swinging U-turns as they try to park, people toting coolers in the road—and just a few young, for-hire parking assistants on hand to try and manage an increasingly unmanageable scene.

Nobody denies that it’s an accident waiting to happen, least of all Tod Friend, the majority owner of the popular bayside picnicking destination, where the oysters flow freely (but not for free) and visitors are mightily encouraged to carpool, given a traffic picture that often finds dozens of cars lined up along the highway.

“People are always trying to do U-ies, the speed limit is 55—it is a little bit snarly,” says Friend. “It really hasn’t played out that there’s these terrible consequences, but someone can get hit, and we know that.” Friend stresses that there’s been a “total of three collisions” associated with the snarly parking scene.

The retail and commercial oyster-harvesting operation is going through changes it hopes will help it expand business, even as it works to make the highway safer for all who would drive it.

“They have troubles at land
and at sea,” says Marin County Supervisor Steve Kinsey, who also sits on the California Coastal Commission. At the land-bound county level, Kinsey says that the business’ use permit “does not permit anywhere near the level of activity that they undertake on that site.”

The coastal commission and lawyers for the oyster company are meanwhile in litigation over TBOC’s coastal development permits and whether it should be able to reclaim portions of bayside oyster grounds it once owned. The gist of their argument, says Friend, is that TBOC predated the emergence of the California Coastal Commission and may not be “subject to a permit with the CC.” G’luck with that.

The troubles at TBOC began in 2012, says Friend, when the facility hosted a theater event. “It came to pass that there was a complaint filed against us for having a little theater conducted here on a summer evening,” he says.

The Marin County use permit for TBOC dates back to 1987, says Friend, and stipulates a few conditions that the operation has outgrown as its popularity has increased.

The permit allowed for the retail operation to run Friday through Sunday; the operation could hire a maximum of eight employees, and only one full-time resident was allowed on the property.

Yet by 2012, Friend says, “we were operating seven days a week, and we were not supposed to be doing that. We have more employees. So the county wanted to start from scratch, they wanted take it from the top. We said, ‘Fine, we’d like to do that.'”

Friend says TBOC has tried numerous times to sort out the traffic problem. First, the company tried to take over an underused nearby parking lot owned by the state. The state said no-go.

For a while, they parked cars on a parcel owned by the federal government. The feds put the kibosh on that parking lot.

Friend then rented out the West Marin School parking lot, in Point Reyes Station, between Memorial Day and Labor Day, and provided a shuttle.

“None of that worked,” says Friend. Finally, the company purchased a 26-acre lot across the highway from the main oyster shack and hopes to use it for parking—but that’s by no means guaranteed.

“We sought out some idea from the county that they’d give some permission, give us the thumbs-up—so we bought it, and it’s the centerpiece of our proposal with the county.”

Problem is, the 26 acres are zoned as an “agricultural protection parcel.” Kinsey says the county recently sent Friend a letter that indicated TBOC “is not going to build large parking lots in the ag zones.”

The Marin County Planning Commission will take up the parking plan Sept. 17.

“The 26 acres pretty much speaks to the parking issue,” says a hopeful Friend.

Kinsey notes that he’s a big fan of the West Marin oyster economy and wants to help sort out TBOC’s intersection of growing pains: “We want to support oysters, oyster growing and oyster entertainment.”

And why shouldn’t he: oysters represent a huge draw for the county. Friend says that the recent closing of Drakes Bay Oyster Company has naturally meant a spillover crowd to his business—that’s 50,000 Drakes Bay visitors a year whose options for al fresco oysters, he says, are now Tomales Bay Oyster Company or Hog Island (and, we’d add, the Marshall Store).

Friend notes that the biggest groups to visit TBOC are Asian-American weekenders, and he’s worked mightily to manage the traffic they bring with them. “Half of our customers are Asian-Americans from the East Bay,” says Friend. “Nobody in the world loves shellfish like the Asian and the Latino populations. The people who are the least avid about the oysters are the Caucasians, but they come out for the picnicking.”

The oyster company enacted a reservation system, says Friend, “to try and control the traffic and the parking.” But that didn’t work, even though Friend says reservations came with “a long discussion from us about how you had to come by a bus or a van.”

Instead, the reservation system only encouraged more cars to the site. “It didn’t help with the number of cars,” says Friend. “It went the other way. So we’ve gone away from reservations. Now it’s first-come, first serve. But we tell the big parties: you have to come by bus.”

The parking snafu, says Friend, sees up to a hundred cars parked along the road on the weekend. “That has been the subject of some complaint and concern in Marshall,” says Friend.

Kinsey says he’s surprised at the absence of California State Highway Patrol officers at TBOC to direct traffic or write tickets.

“It shocks me that CHP hasn’t been more formidable,” says Kinsey. He adds that it’s not like the officers aren’t writing tickets already. “I hear from single-family homeowners in Marshall who get nailed by CHP for backing into the roadway from their homes.”

Friend says that the CHP does come to the facility, but only on “a couple of occasions” to write tickets.

CHP public information officer Andrew Barclay says part of the law enforcement problem is TBOC’s location at the far-northwestern edge of Marin County. Unless there’s a call for service or a specific complaint, Marin-based state police don’t make it out there too often. That’s especially so on the weekends when, says Barclay, there’s only one or two CHP officers on patrol in all of West Marin—and an increasing number of collisions to contend with. Still, says Barclay, “we are aware of the parking problem up in that area. It’s on our radar . . . but we don’t have the resources to station one officer at the TBOC.”

In any event, the CHP officers who do head to TBOC are more likely to enjoy the scene than write tickets, says Friend. “We’ve got CHP guys who come without their uniforms, and come for a picnic,” says Friend.

No problem there, says Barclay, so long as everyone understands that those officers are off-duty. “What officers do in their spare time, that’s their business.”

Golden State Wolf

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In 2011, an intrepid two-and-a-half-year-old male gray wolf loped across the Oregon border into California’s Siskiyou County, making him the first known wolf to step foot on the state’s soil in 87 years. Biologists believe more wolves will follow.

Because he was wearing a radio collar that identified him as wolf OR7, wildlife officials could track his movements. He had traveled more than 700 miles from northeastern Oregon to California, where he spent nearly 15 months moving through seven different counties, presumably searching for a mate. He crossed back into Oregon, and last year biologists confirmed he had found his mate in what was thought to be a wolfless place, siring three pups in the Rogue River-Siskiyou National Forest, a 1.6 million–acre wilderness that straddles the California-Oregon border.

Last month, Oregon wildlife officials reported evidence of a second litter of pups. OR7’s family is now known as the Rogue Pack. It’s the first pack in western Oregon and the 10th pack in the state since wolves from Idaho started crossing the Snake River into Oregon in the 1990s.

OR7, later named “Journey” in a naming contest that, among other things, aimed to make him too famous to kill, became a celebrity because of his beat-the-odds trek in search of a mate. It’s a great story, and now it’s a movie,
OR7: The Journey.

The documentary screens
Aug. 26 and 27 at Summerfield Cinemas. The first screening has sold out.

“This is a special wolf,” says director Clemens Schenk. “I decided it was going to be a great topic for a documentary.”

Schenk says he did not anticipate the audience response. The film has sold out everywhere it’s been shown, and it leaves many viewers in tears. Organizers had to move to larger theater in Santa Rosa to accommodate demand.

“[This wolf] must have really touched people,” Schenk says.

There is no video of OR7. The documentary features a stand-in wolf from Wolf People of Cocolalla, a wolf sanctuary in Idaho.

Gray wolves once roamed California from the Oregon border to San Diego County. But hunters, trappers, ranchers and ignorance put an end to that. The last known wolf in California died in 1924 in the jaws of an iron trap near Litchfield in eastern Lassen County’s high desert. The wolf was reportedly old and weighed only 53 pounds. Adult wolves typically weight from 70 to 150 pounds. The animal was also missing part of one of its rear legs, probably from the same kind of trap that killed him. Part of the excitement of OR7’s story is that he traveled near the spot where that wolf died more than nine decades ago.

As moving as OR7’s story is, the bigger story is that more wolves could be moving into California.

“There’s enormous drama in all of this,” says Amaroq Weiss, a wolf specialist for the Center for Biological Diversity. The Petaluma resident is featured in the film, and has been working to protect wolves and other animals for years.

Weiss and other wolf advocates foresaw the repatriation of wolves into California because of their growing numbers in Oregon and Washington. “This is something many of us had anticipated for a long time,” she says.

Because OR7 spent so much time in California and left scent markers, it’s believed other wolves from the Rogue Pack or elsewhere may migrate to California to create packs of their own. Just last month, a remote camera captured a photo of what state wildlife officials believe is another gray wolf in southeastern Siskiyou County. This one isn’t wearing a radio collar, so its movements can’t be tracked.

Because of suitable habitat and prey, wolves could do well in California, Weiss says. Most important to the wolves’ reemergence in the state, she says, is public sympathy to their plight and an appreciation of the key role they play in a well-balanced ecosystem. The area of California, Washington and Oregon, she says, is “the best place for wolves in this country in the long run.”

To pave the way for future wolves, the Center for Biological Diversity and its allies filled a petition in 2012 to protect the animals under California’s Endangered Species Act. Two years later—on the same day officials confirmed that OR7 and his mate had given birth to pups in southern Oregon—California granted protection to gray wolves. The state’s Department of Fish and Wildlife is currently developing a wolf-management plan that they will release for public comment.

“Wolves will live anywhere humans let them,” says Weiss.

Will Californians let them live here?

Letters to the Editor: August 19, 2015

Minimal Wages

Right now, the minimum wage is a joke (“For a Few Dollar More,” July 12). Hats off to Marin County, S.F. and the other communities that are doing the right thing! Unbelievable that homecare workers are still getting shut out. Thank you for an intelligent, informative article on what’s going on locally.

Via Bohemian.com

What an asinine article. You obviously have no understanding of economics. You get paid for what you are worth, not what you want. Your worth is based on your skills and education. That being said, the piece de resistance: “Confederate state of Alabama.” You do realize that there hasn’t been a Confederate state in 150 years? Unless, of course, you are granting the right of secession to Alabama. If so, please confer the same right to the other 12 states of the former Confederacy.

Via Bohemian.com

Unfortunately, we are not paid what we’re worth; we’re paid the smallest amount people can get away with. Every 17 cents Sonoma pays IHSS homecare workers is matched by 33 cents from the state and 50 cents by the feds. That’s an extra 83 cents that comes into the county that doesn’t cost a dime. And that money is not going to be socked away in anyone’s 401(k). It is going to pay for goods, services and housing. Now that’s good economics!

Via Bohemian.com

Clean Power

Bohemian, do your research before you praise Sonoma Clean Power and believe their numbers (“Charging Ahead,” Aug. 12). Mr. Sypher’s Sonoma Clean Power isn’t as green as they say they are, very sad to say. And they are fighting tooth and nail against a transparency law that would expose them: AB 1110.

I work in the energy industry, but you don’t need to be an insider to see the truth. Read this PD editorial shaming SCP for lack of transparency on AB 1110: pressdemocrat.com/opinion/4280264-181/pd-editorial-making-energy-sources. Marin Clean Energy and LEAN Energy both dropped their resistance, as their alliance with Shell’s sneaky accounting was finally going public. They’re preparing for the inevitable forced transparency, going greener than they currently are, as they want to retain customers. The bottom line is that businesses and homes with low-carbon goals who thought Sonoma Clean Power was going to do all the work for them may be, unfortunately, mistaken.

Via Bohemian.com

Crazy Constitutionalists

Is this officer of the law (“Cops on Film,” Aug. 12), who was required to swear an oath to uphold the Constitution, insinuating that it is a bad thing for an American citizen to support the Constitution, or that such a person would be a “crazy guy”?

Via Bohemian.com

“The people are the rightful masters of both Congresses and courts, not to overthrow the Constitution but to overthrow the men who pervert the Constitution.”—Abraham Lincoln

Via Bohemian.com

Coming of Age

For the evocative, if sweetened, adaptation of Phoebe Gloeckner’s semi-autobiographical novel Diary of a Teenage Girl, director Marielle Heller cast British actress Bel Powley. Powley, 23, plays Gloeckner’s 15-year-old heroine Minnie Goetz. Rounded and fragile, with big yearning eyes, she looks childishly rambunctious as she stands on a hassock or bounces on a bed to admire the details of her room.

Minnie’s first lover is her mother’s boyfriend, Monroe (Alexander Skarsgard), a perfect representative of this certain time and place (San Francisco in the 1970s), when the fanciest men were not expected to do all that much, either in the realm of work or love. The first-person point of view belongs to Minnie, even as all the power in her first sexual relationship is held by Monroe.

It’s scandalous material, but Heller takes the sensationalism out of this not untypical memoir. In interviews, Gloeckner—a memoirist and cartoonist of great merit—has kept busy explaining why the scandal isn’t in the statutory rape; the real shame, she stresses, is in the way the liaison broke up the trust between daughter and mother.

Minnie’s very ’70s, laissez faire mom, Charlotte, is played by Kristen Wiig, and her performance proves again why she’s one of the most important actresses working today. When the cat is finally out of the bag, Charlotte interprets this betrayal in terms of a mother’s traditional outraged decency, demanding that the scoundrel marry her daughter.

Anyone who dawdled through that dangerous time of the 1970s, especially as a teenager, will see a reflection of their own experiences. They’ll remember things they swore they’d never forget, and somehow did.

‘Diary of a Teenage Girl’ opens Aug. 26 at Rialto Cinemas, 6868 McKinley St., Sebastopol. 707.525,4840.

Sonic Truth

0

The National Security Agency’s ability to spy on vast quantities of Internet traffic passing through the United States has relied on its extraordinary, decades-long partnership with a single company: the telecom giant AT&T . . .

So read an opening sentence in the New York Times of Aug. 15, in a story about widespread spying on international communications sourced largely from documents absconded from the NSA by Edward Snowden.

The article also described how smaller telecommunications companies that use AT&T networks could get caught in the NSA dragnet—even ones with strong privacy policies like Santa Rosa–based Sonic. In April, Sonic partnered with AT&T to expand services into suburban zones.

“The recent partnership with AT&T allows us to reach areas where our network doesn’t reach,” says Sonic cofounder Dane Jasper. Only customers in these expanded areas—such as Bennett Valley—were exposed to potential NSA spying via the AT&T-NSA partnership.

To expand its service, Sonic utilized AT&T’s so-called fiber-to-the-node technology (FTTN) and its “digital subscriber line access multiplexer” (DSLAM) devices to kick off its Fusion FTTN service. The company operates its own DSLAM for nonsuburban subscribers, and Jasper says the device is in Sonic’s central office in Santa Rosa. The device sources the company’s DSL signal and phone dial tones, Jasper explains.

But when it comes to privacy for Sonic’s suburban customers, they are subject to AT&T’s policies and whatever access is granted to government agencies like the NSA.

Even before the AT&T revelations, Sonic worked to protect customers’ privacy, says Jasper. The company offers a “virtual privacy network” option which provides privacy through encrypted data “tunnels.” The company already encourages customers to use the VPN where there’s public WiFi (airports, cafes); the encouragement is now extended to suburban subscribers.

“Customers who do not want to be subject to the AT&T policies and practices can utilize the VPN feature,” says Jasper.

Jasper wasn’t surprised about AT&T’s coziness with the NSA. He says the telecom company has “long been an essential part of national security, and the revelations from the Snowden documents shouldn’t come as a surprise to anyone.”

From the Times:

The newly disclosed documents show that AT&T has provided access to peering traffic from other companies’ networks. . . . AT&T’s ‘corporate relationships provide unique accesses to other telecoms and I.S.P.s,’ or Internet service providers, one 2013 N.S.A. document states.

Jasper says he doesn’t know whether AT&T provided “peering access” to suburban Sonic subscribers’ emails or calls. But it’s possible. “It’s a wholesale product that we purchase from them as an ISP,” says Jasper, “and so a statement like [the above quote] would be applicable to that product.”

When it comes to international calls, Jasper says privacy does not exist. “When it goes international, I never had any assumption that there was any level of security for those sorts of calls.”

“Our goal is to protect our legal customers,” he adds. “We believe that if a customer commits a crime, we will meet our responsibilities, with a court order. But if you’re not a criminal, I don’t believe that anybody should be snooping on you.”

Taste of Summer

The family at Crane Melon Barn has harvested their sweet and juicy Crane melons for some 85 years. The season runs from about Sept. 1 to the end of October, and this year the descendants of the original Cranes will have melons for sale once again. They also sell yellow-meat watermelons that taste like honey. Both the Crane melons...

‘Kill Me’ Now

In much the same way that punk was a musical revolution, the definitive book about punk was a literary one. With its modernization of the oral history tradition—telling its 424-page story entirely in a string of quotes that form a solid, winding narrative—Please Kill Me: The Uncensored Oral History of Punk revolutionized both the book industry and the way...

Bacon Meets Tomato 

If it wasn't for the tomato, the BLT sandwich would be a four-season delight. But the tomatoes must be fresh, which limits when the sandwich is available. The BLT doesn't just depend on the tomato. It serves as a stage on which to display it and as a way to enjoy one of the best parts of summer. The ideal tomato...

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Golden State Wolf

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Letters to the Editor: August 19, 2015

Minimal Wages Right now, the minimum wage is a joke ("For a Few Dollar More," July 12). Hats off to Marin County, S.F. and the other communities that are doing the right thing! Unbelievable that homecare workers are still getting shut out. Thank you for an intelligent, informative article on what's going on locally. —Leslie 2  Via Bohemian.com What an asinine article. You obviously...

Coming of Age

For the evocative, if sweetened, adaptation of Phoebe Gloeckner's semi-autobiographical novel Diary of a Teenage Girl, director Marielle Heller cast British actress Bel Powley. Powley, 23, plays Gloeckner's 15-year-old heroine Minnie Goetz. Rounded and fragile, with big yearning eyes, she looks childishly rambunctious as she stands on a hassock or bounces on a bed to admire the details of...

Sonic Truth

The National Security Agency's ability to spy on vast quantities of Internet traffic passing through the United States has relied on its extraordinary, decades-long partnership with a single company: the telecom giant AT&T . . . So read an opening sentence in the New York Times of Aug. 15, in a story about widespread spying on international communications sourced largely...
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