Test Post for WYSIWYG Styling

Meatball porchetta kevin pastrami fatback pork chop andouille prosciutto, drumstick filet mignon bresaola pork loin tongue ham hock. Pork belly tongue turkey t-bone shoulder, landjaeger pig alcatra prosciutto tail flank leberkas. Boudin shankl ]e short loin, spare ribs tongue swine short ribs kielbasa leberkas meatloaf salami cow prosciutto pork loin capicola.

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Meatball porchetta kevin pastrami fatback pork chop andouille prosciutto, drumstick filet mignon bresaola pork loin tongue ham hock. Pork belly tongue turkey t-bone shoulder, landjaeger pig alcatra prosciutto tail flank leberkas. Boudin shankl ]e short loin, spare ribs tongue swine short ribs kielbasa leberkas meatloaf salami cow prosciutto pork loin capicola.

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Salami pastrami rump turducken prosciutto ham hock t-bone sausage ball tip ribeye. Biltong rump sirloin, sausage bresaola short ribs beef meatball turkey.

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Meatball porchetta kevin pastrami fatback pork chop andouille prosciutto, drumstick filet mignon bresaola pork loin tongue ham hock. Pork belly tongue turkey t-bone shoulder, landjaeger pig alcatra prosciutto tail flank leberkas. Boudin shankl ]e short loin, spare ribs tongue swine short ribs kielbasa leberkas meatloaf salami cow prosciutto pork loin capicola.


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t-bone swine andouille prosciutto. Brisket landjaeger bresaola pork belly alcatra capicola andouille.

After the Fall

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Until a couple of months ago, Charles Lester thought everything was going well at his post as executive director of the California Coastal Commission.

Lester, whose hiring was unanimously approved by the commission less than five ago, had racked up a number of accomplishments as its second director ever, including securing a bigger staff, streamlining complex processes and finding compromise on controversial projects.

Looking back, Lester now admits, sheepishly, that he was considering asking for a raise—until, that was, last December, when he got an unfavorable performance review from commissioners. He realized then that his days at the commission, which oversees more than 1,000 miles of coastline, might be numbered.

Lester received notice of his possible termination in January and opted for a public hearing on the decision.

“The notice itself wasn’t a total surprise, although the exact timing was a little surprising,” he says.

Lester, known for being low-key and soft-spoken, is technically still employed by the commission, as he helps staff transition to senior deputy director Jack Ainsworth’s leadership. Ainsworth will act as interim executive director until a new one is hired.

Lester’s termination set off a firestorm of outrage; more than 600 people showed up to his hearing in Morro Bay and gave six hours of testimony in his favor. Due to lobbyists’ growing influence on the commission, politicians and environmentalists all over the state say pro-development interests were behind his firing—something Lester says appears to be true.

Commissioners, who called for the termination and approved it on a 7–5 vote, gave their own reasons for the change, some vague and some dubious.

One was the worry that the Coastal Commission staff,
95 percent of which signed a letter supporting Lester, doesn’t accurately reflect the diversity of the state. Although Lester called the accusation “a misdirection,” he doesn’t take the issue of diversity lightly.

“It’s really important. I’m not saying it isn’t,” Lester says. “I felt like I was addressing it. Is there more to do? Yep. There’s more to do.”

Lester had actually just released an update on the state of diversity in the Coastal Commission as part of his February director’s report. The report’s numbers reveal a staff that, although not a cultural melting pot, is in step with other state agencies. According to the report, the staff’s racial diversity exceeds that of environmental groups in the state, with people of color on staff coming out to 29 percent. “By that measure, the numbers weren’t terrible. Again, they weren’t good enough, so we were working on it,” Lester says.

In the past few years, a discussion has been brewing that goes well beyond the Coastal Commission, about a disconnect between environmental groups on the one side and diversity organizations and communities of color on the other.

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Green 2.0: Green Diversity Initiative released a report in July 2014 criticizing environmental groups across the country for having embarrassingly white staffs. Called “The Green Insiders’ Club,” the report examined government agencies, nonprofits and foundations. It recommended that groups institute annual diversity assessments, incorporate goals into performance evaluations and increase resources for new initiatives to work and combat this problem.

Lester’s February report outlined steps that the Coastal Commission has been taking to change recruitment and outreach strategies, including its move to ramp up recruiting efforts in the state’s public universities. For one entry-level position, people of color in the applicant field increased to 51 percent, compared to 19 percent less than two years prior.

One of the obstacles to diversity, Lester’s report explained, might be that the coastal communities, where the commission has offices, are often less diverse, more affluent areas with a higher cost of living.

The stakes transcend questions about the diversity of the staff itself. Lester says the commission’s work in social justice can be seen through its commitment to protecting the coast for all Californians, even those from inner-city communities or farther inland. He hopes that this focus doesn’t change under a new director, as many people have suggested it might.

“There’s a lot more work to do to building bridges to all of California’s communities, so that people can enjoy the coast more equally,” Lester says. “And that’s just something we’ll have to keep working on. Every time an access way is opened or protected, that’s a step in the right direction. Every time a prohibitive parking restriction shuts down access or somehow prevents people from getting to the beach, that’s a step backwards, and those are the kinds of things we fought against.”

Another criticism lobbed at commission staff is that it takes too long to process applications. But Lester notes that the wait time for many approvals dropped significantly after the governor’s office increased the staff a few years ago. He also says that big projects sometimes warrant long waits and that sometimes it’s a developer who creates the impasse.

“You get this narrative created that somehow there’s a problem, when in fact it reflects the necessary process to make sure we’re following the law and protecting the resources as the Coastal Act states,” Lester says. “I’m not saying there aren’t cases where something could have been done more efficiently. Every once in awhile someone drops the ball. That happens in every organization. But I think, overall, if you look at the commission’s record and you look at the data, the commission’s doing a pretty good job.”

The Coastal Commission’s next meeting is April 13–15 at the Sonoma County Supervisors Chambers at 575 Administration Drive in Santa Rosa. Among other agenda items, they’ll be talking about a controversial plan to start charging for beach access at a dozen-plus Sonoma County coastal destinations, through self-pay “iron rangers” that would be installed and managed by the state.

The Commission was brought in last year to referee a fight between the state and the county over whether to implement the fees, and the commission was reported to be split on the issue. That was many months before the commission moved to oust Lester—who had reportedly gotten on the bad side of State Parks for not immediately signing on to the beach-fee plan.

Pascaline Perfect

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Sebastopol’s Pascaline French Patisserie & Cafe looks like a simple cafe. And it is.

Located in a small historic storefront on Highway 116 in a building that was originally built to showcase Gravenstein apples at the 1939 World’s Fair on Treasure Island, eight-month-old Pascaline serves a small menu of sandwiches, salads and soups, and a beautiful assortment of baked-that-morning pastries showcased in two large glass display cases.

But the thing about simplicity is it takes years to achieve. It’s a stripping away of the extraneous and the forced that leaves behind technique so skilled and refined it’s hard to notice it’s even there. In it’s highest form, simplicity comes close to perfection. And Pascaline is pretty near perfect.

The business is the work of two French masters, executive chef Didier Ageorges and pastry chef Celine Plano. Both began their culinary training in France at age 14. Their professions have taken them to some of the most celebrated hotels and kitchens in the world, rigorous training and experience they bring to Pascaline.

Ageorges and Plano met at the Ritz-Carlton San Francisco. Ageorges was executive sous chef and Plano was executive chef of pastry, the only female in the position at the time at any Ritz hotel. Ageorges left the Ritz to become executive chef at Chalk Hill Winery, while Plano worked at other Ritz-Carlton properties, the Four Seasons and as chef and technical advisor for Callebaut, a premium chocolate manufacturer in Chicago.

When Ageorges left Chalk Hill last year to open his own catering business, he called upon his old colleague Plano to join him. Smart move. Many of Plano’s creations sell out by mid-morning. Her pastries are smaller than their supersized American versions, but are huge on flavor and technique. And butter. The croissants are hands-down the best I’ve ever had, especially the almond croissants: flaky, yet moist inside, with a delicious marzipan and almond crunch.

“I’m very proud of our almond croissants,” Plano says matter-of-factly.

The silken flan with its crispy, flaky crust and creamy pudding is fantastic. Come early to get a kouign-amann (pronounced something like “queen-on-yawn”), a muffin-shaped pastry that’s really a flour-and-sugar superstructure designed to hold unholy amounts of butter. Plano started baking them to entice her friend and chef at the Ritz-Carton Half Moon Bay to come visit. He hasn’t yet but it’s his loss. They’re now a house specialty.

While the cafe menu is small—half a dozen sandwiches, soups, salads and daily specials—everything I tried was superb. There are no afterthoughts.

“We are cooking everything,” says Ageorges. “That makes a huge difference.”

The ham and cheese sandwich, elevated to a croque-monsieur, is an example of Pascaline’s best-of-class approach and attention to detail. Plano bakes the brioche for the sandwich. The molten cheese is the perfect counterpoint to the thinly sliced ham. Even the small side salad served with it stands out for its judiciously applied creamy but tangy caesar dressing. I ate every last bit—along with everything else I had here.

Pascaline French Patisserie & Cafe, 4550 Gravenstein Hwy. North, Sebastopol. 707.823.3122.

Out of the Fog

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There was a time when Fogline Vineyards co-owner Evan Pontoriero was no wine geek. Like a lot of us, Pontoriero bought wine at the store to go with dinner, and that was that. Then one day, a colleague invited him to help pick grapes in Geyserville for a home winemaking hobby. When he smelled the aroma of fermentation steaming from the vat, everything changed.

“It was just like in Ratatouille,” Pontoriero says, “when [Anton Ego] tastes the stew and it brings him back to his mother.” Pontoriero was brought back to memories of his grandfather, who always made a little wine in his garage in Pennsylvania. Pontoriero, too, became a home winemaker and confirmed wine geek who has, for instance, an opinion on the Dijon clones of Pinot Noir. With business partner Brent Bessire, he made the jump into commercial winemaking in 2009 after leaving his job at Pixar.

Yes, I said, “after leaving his job at Pixar.” As a computer animator, Pontoriero worked on Star Wars at Skywalker Ranch, and on the 2007 computer-animated hit Ratatouille at Pixar. It’s an enviable career, but the downside was sitting behind a computer for years on end. With one hit of grapey ferment, Pontoriero says, “it’s like I’d found home.”

After a few peripatetic years in custom crush cellars, Bessire and Pontoriero got a tip on a long-vacant winery with an interesting history and crazy good visibility, just off 101. Some may remember this as the Farmery, an organic produce stand in the 1990s; it was built for Fulton Valley Cellars in 1984, with Joseph Swan’s Rod Berglund as winemaker. Now it’s owned by a neighboring church, and Fogline set up shop in 2014.

The partners also planted an estate vineyard situated at 850 feet on Sonoma Mountain, just where the fog tops out—hence, the name. The 2014 Zephyr’s Block Sonoma Coast Chardonnay ($38) was barrel-fermented with a strain of malolactic bacteria that does not produce the byproduct diacetyl, which lends many Chardonnays that characteristic “buttered popcorn” aroma, and gives Pontoriero a headache. The Zephyr’s Block has an appealing aroma that suggests lemon flower honey, and shows up a lot of the so-called no-oak Chardonnays.

Scented like orange peel, with a red cherry savor that’s brightened by citrusy acidity, the 2012 Hillside Estate Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($65) is joined on the roster by darker, lush Pinots from purchased fruit. Sweet-toothed Zin lovers are welcome, too, with the 2014 Sonoma County Old Vine Zinfandel ($35), while the experimental 2015 Flora may leave you thirsty for more.

Fogline Vineyards, 875 River Road, Fulton. Open daily, 11am–5pm. Tasting fee, $10–$15. 707.636.4415.

Office Space

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Swimmers, by Rachel Bonds, is a gorgeously poetic play about that specific form of crushing loneliness that can only be felt in the presence of other people, and it’s beautifully performed by a large company of 11 actors.

Presented by Marin Theatre Company and directed with detailed precision and immense humanity by Mike Donahue, the play is structured as an interconnected series of scenes taking place on the same day, each on a different floor of a large office building.

Tom (Aaron Roman Weiner), begins his morning cowering in the basement in the grip of a full-on existential emergency. The custodian, Walter (L. Peter Callender), juggles a series of casual conversations with various tasks. Vivian (Kristin Villanueva) nervously starts a new job in a new department. Over the course of the play, other workers appear, talking but rarely connecting—until suddenly, in an unexpected place, some of them actually do.

The documentary-level realness of the performances becomes a perfectly unified mechanism for carrying Bonds’ remarkable dialogue and persistent ideas. As a writer, she accomplishes a lot with what might seem to be very little, and in so doing, leaves a ripple of strong emotions, both devastating and gently hopeful, in the wake of her words.

Saying Goodbye to Jim DePriest

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When word spread earlier this month that Jim DePriest had died at 79 there were those in the Sonoma County theater community who expressed more than just shock and sadness. To many, the tireless actor and director had given the impression that he might never die, so relentless was his commitment to local theater.

“It’s just so sad,” says Diane Bailey, a longtime collaborator of DePriest’s from back in the days when the Sonoma County Repertory Theater ran two theaters, one in Sebastopol (where Main Stage West now operates) and the other in downtown Santa Rosa, now business offices.

“Jim loved theater so much,” says Bailey, who has relocated back to Sebastopol after founding Theater Anew in San Francisco, “and Jim’s love of this art form was truly inspiring to many, many local theater artists. He changed our lives.”

A tribute to DePriest has been planned for this Friday evening, March 25, at the Raven Performing Arts Center in downtown Healdsburg at 7pm. Attendees are encouraged to bring a bottle of wine and their stories of DePriest.

Additionally, Bailey says that the entire run of her upcoming Theater Anew production of “Three Viewings,” by Jeffrey Hatcher—running April 1 – 16 at Santa Rosa’s Church of the One Tree—is being dedicated to DePriest.

“Jim had a wicked sen

se of humor,” says Bailey, “and I think he’d appreciate having a play about a funeral be dedicated to his memory. It’s ironic, and he loved irony. He’d get a good laugh out of that.”

Furthermore, says Bailey, there are plans afoot to commission a memorial “Shakespeare Bench,” to be placed in DePriest’s honor somewhere in Sebastopol’s Ives Park. There, DePriest founded the Sonoma County Shakespeare Festival, which for many years provided lavish outdoor productions of Shakespeare’s plays.

A percentage of the box office receipts from “Three Viewings” will be given to the campaign, said Bailey. Go to theateranew.com for more information.

March 20: Ugly Tattoo Contest

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If you’ve got a regrettable Tazmanian devil tattoo or maybe an ill-rendered tramp-stamp, the second annual Ugly Tattoo Contest is for you. The inky gathering offers you the chance to turn that lame barbed-wire tattoo around your bicep into something positive. More than $1,000 in prizes are available, including a $400 tattoo cover-up from tattooist (and this week’s cover artist) Shotsie Gorman. There’s also live music from Half People, Dmitra and Pascal. The tattoo redemption happens on Sunday, March 20, at B&V Whiskey Bar & Grille, 400 First St. E., Sonoma. 6–9pm. 707.938.7110.

March 19: Crazy Cold Beautiful in Santa Rosa

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Crazy Cold Beautiful is a one-of-a-kind song cycle composed by Robin Eschner 
with the American Composers Forum. Performed by Take Jack and Orchestra and the Kitchen Choir, the show tells the history of sled-dog mushing in northern Minnesota—in song. The West Coast premiere will be conducted by Bay Area composer Omid Zoufonoun. Put on a parka and come to the Glaser Center on Saturday, March 19, at 3pm and 8pm. 547 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa. Tickets at crazycoldbeautiful.brownpapertickets.com. 

March 19: Bill Kortum Memorial Hike

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Bill Kortum was Sonoma County’s premier environmental activist. He was instrumental in stopping the nuclear power plant planned for Bodega Head. He also helped create the California Coastal Commission, which set limits on development along the entire California Coast. Bill passed away in 2014 after a long battle with prostate cancer. Celebrate his legacy at the second annual Bill Kortum Memorial Hike at Shell Beach for an easy 3.5-mile hike, March 19 at 11am. Contact prostateawarenessfoundation.org, or for more info.

March 26: SonoMusette in Santa rosa

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Following a sold-out show at the Occidental Center for the Arts, SonoMusette tap into 20th-century Paris with the songs of Edith Piaf, Jacques Brel and fellow Frenchmen (and women) with a spirited show at the Glaser Center on March 26 at 7:30pm. 547 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa. $15 in advance (Brownpapertickets.com/event/2508427) and $20 at the door.

Test Post for WYSIWYG Styling

Meatball porchetta kevin pastrami fatback pork chop andouille prosciutto, drumstick filet mignon bresaola pork loin tongue ham hock. Pork belly tongue turkey t-bone shoulder, landjaeger pig alcatra prosciutto tail flank leberkas. Boudin shankl ]e short loin, spare ribs tongue swine short ribs kielbasa leberkas meatloaf salami cow prosciutto pork loin...

After the Fall

Until a couple of months ago, Charles Lester thought everything was going well at his post as executive director of the California Coastal Commission. Lester, whose hiring was unanimously approved by the commission less than five ago, had racked up a number of accomplishments as its second director ever, including securing a bigger staff, streamlining complex processes and finding compromise...

Pascaline Perfect

Sebastopol's Pascaline French Patisserie & Cafe looks like a simple cafe. And it is. Located in a small historic storefront on Highway 116 in a building that was originally built to showcase Gravenstein apples at the 1939 World's Fair on Treasure Island, eight-month-old Pascaline serves a small menu of sandwiches, salads and soups, and a beautiful assortment of baked-that-morning pastries...

Out of the Fog

There was a time when Fogline Vineyards co-owner Evan Pontoriero was no wine geek. Like a lot of us, Pontoriero bought wine at the store to go with dinner, and that was that. Then one day, a colleague invited him to help pick grapes in Geyserville for a home winemaking hobby. When he smelled the aroma of fermentation steaming...

Office Space

Swimmers, by Rachel Bonds, is a gorgeously poetic play about that specific form of crushing loneliness that can only be felt in the presence of other people, and it's beautifully performed by a large company of 11 actors. Presented by Marin Theatre Company and directed with detailed precision and immense humanity by Mike Donahue, the play is structured as an...

Saying Goodbye to Jim DePriest

When word spread earlier this month that Jim DePriest had died at 79 there were those in the Sonoma County theater community who expressed more than just shock and sadness. To many, the tireless actor and director had given the impression that he might never die, so relentless was his commitment to local theater. “It’s just so sad,” says...

March 20: Ugly Tattoo Contest

If you’ve got a regrettable Tazmanian devil tattoo or maybe an ill-rendered tramp-stamp, the second annual Ugly Tattoo Contest is for you. The inky gathering offers you the chance to turn that lame barbed-wire tattoo around your bicep into something positive. More than $1,000 in prizes are available, including a $400 tattoo cover-up from tattooist (and this...

March 19: Crazy Cold Beautiful in Santa Rosa

Crazy Cold Beautiful is a one-of-a-kind song cycle composed by Robin Eschner  with the American Composers Forum. Performed by Take Jack and Orchestra and the Kitchen Choir, the show tells the history of sled-dog mushing in northern Minnesota—in song. The West Coast premiere will be conducted by Bay Area composer Omid Zoufonoun. Put on a parka and come to the Glaser...

March 19: Bill Kortum Memorial Hike

Bill Kortum was Sonoma County’s premier environmental activist. He was instrumental in stopping the nuclear power plant planned for Bodega Head. He also helped create the California Coastal Commission, which set limits on development along the entire California Coast. Bill passed away in 2014 after a long battle with prostate cancer. Celebrate his legacy at the second annual Bill...

March 26: SonoMusette in Santa rosa

Following a sold-out show at the Occidental Center for the Arts, SonoMusette tap into 20th-century Paris with the songs of Edith Piaf, Jacques Brel and fellow Frenchmen (and women) with a spirited show at the Glaser Center on March 26 at 7:30pm. 547 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa. $15 in advance (Brownpapertickets.com/event/2508427) and $20 at the door.
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