Letters to the Editor: February 20, 2019

Ramble On

Rambling on (“Cleanup Crew,” Feb. 13). Lost my attention so many times I needed a cup of Bad Ass to get through this one.

Forestville

Dear Ms. Ravitch

An open letter to District Attorney
Jill Ravitch:

Myself and many others have been trying to contact you for some time with no response. I have recently been made aware of criminal animal cruelty taking place in multiple farms across this county. The video footage and photographs I have seen from these farms are truly disturbing, including baby chicks who are so sick and injured they cannot stand to reach food and water, hens who are trapped in wire cages for their entire lives, and birds who are cannibalizing each other due to stress and confinement. In addition to being morally appalling, these conditions violate the basic animal-welfare provisions set out in California Penal Code 597.

It is my understanding that the Sonoma County District Attorney’s Office takes issues of animal abuse very seriously. For this reason, I am very surprised and concerned that your office has decided to pursue charges against the whistleblowers who have uncovered this abuse and who attempted to help these animals, instead of the farms engaged in this criminal activity. From speaking to the individuals who are now facing felony charges in this case, I learned that they contacted you, the Sheriff’s Office and Animal Control multiple times asking you to investigate the situation prior to the actions that led to their arrests. Unfortunately, nothing was done to help these animals.

This is not what I have come to expect from elected officials in Sonoma County. I am interested in hearing your perspective on this case and how we can make Sonoma County a place where animals are treated with respect. Would you be willing to sit down with me and several other concerned individuals to have a conversation about these issues?

Sonoma County has a long history of protecting the abused and disenfranchised. We can do better than this.

Santa Rosa

Your Utility
Dollars at Work

The trouble call had come in; it was for a gas odor.

I was with “B” on a job with PG&E in the hills above Novato. We had arrived early, did our set up (flags, cones) and waited. The on-the-job time was set for 8am. Sometime later (9am-ish) PG&E rolls onto the site with a large utility vehicle and a trailer carrying a backhoe. The PG&E guy gets out and gives our set up the once-over. “OK,” he says. He confers with his two associates, reviews the work order and then goes and gets coffee.

PG&E drills the first hole for the gas sniffer: F––k! More discussion among the work crew. The second, third, fourth and fifth holes are drilled and with the same result; the expletive gets louder and more harsh. Finally, a resident in the corner house comes out. She approaches me and asks if she should call someone, because she thinks there will be a medical emergency soon. I tell her to go ahead.

This is the PG&E I know.

Santa Rosa

Write to us at le*****@******an.com.

Powered Up

An unusual experiment began a few years ago in suburban Irvine, when rows of homes, inhabited by UC Irvine faculty and staff, afforded a high-tech peephole from which to observe how humans interact with electricity.

The houses were outfitted with tools for use with the advanced electricity system glowing on California’s horizon, prepping residents for a near future when things worth having will carry the prefix “smart”—as in smart appliances installed in smart homes attached to the smart power grid.

The complex system that powers the world’s fifth-largest economy is at a turning point. Utility executives, policymakers and regulators are peering into a future where California has shed fossil fuels and is fully buzzing with electricity. Before the state completes its shift to a modern, safe, sustainable energy grid, it has to decide precisely how that should be accomplished.

Among the key issues:

• The grid is aging, large pieces of it having been installed to serve a state with a few million people, not today’s 40 million. Some of the system’s vulnerabilities—even its lethality—have been laid bare by wildfires, when power was interrupted by flying tree limbs and communities were devastated by blazes sparked by broken equipment.

• The 100-year-old system in which power flows one way, from mega-utilities to their millions of customers, is coming apart. Power now runs into and out of the grid from multiple sources, all the time.

• By law, the state must obtain all of its power by 2045 from clean sources, including sun and wind, which are cheaper than ever but unpredictable and difficult to fully harness. For example, more solar power may be generated in the middle of the day than the grid demands. That abundance presents a technology problem: how to store excess energy until needed.

• The “internet of things”—devices that connect us to each other and the grid—offers convenience but also requires users to relinquish some degree of privacy.

Such modernization requires a better understanding of what we need from the grid, and what the grid requires from us. Enter demonstration projects like the five-year experiment at UC Irvine—sponsored by the university, the Southern California Edison power company and the federal Department of Energy—sort of a real-time Truman Show in which homeowners were the subjects. Their households received smart appliances, LED lighting, water heaters, insulation, air conditioning, solar panels and batteries, even electric cars and charging stations. The trade-off for residents was that their every decision was remotely monitored: which lights were flicked on and when; which families used air conditioning or hot water more than others; which wall sockets residents used.

Gene Tsudik, a UC Irvine professor and one of the participants, is a computer scientist specializing in privacy and security. His professional antennae were fired up when teams of installers left behind clicking, ticking, blinking monitors that provided his family’s interface with the grid. “I was very well aware that even simple devices that transmit wirelessly can triangulate the movement of people in the house,” says Tsudik.

One takeaway for Scott Samuelsen, director of UCI’s Advanced Power and Energy Program, which ran the project, is that while the adoption of smart-home devices is growing fast, regulations and consumer protections that should accompany them are not keeping pace. “The market is out of control with respect to regulation [of devices],” Samuelsen says. “We are in a free-for-all.”

Some aspects of grid modernization are indeed under way. Regulators have ordered power companies to make their equipment safer, particularly to withstand—and not cause—wildfires. Much of the equipment we can now see will either be buried safely underground or armored heavily to protect it from the elements.

But other aspects—policies, regulations, new business models—could require another decade to resolve. Some policymakers envision a centrally managed Western grid serving everyone from the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific, not ruled over by California alone. Others see more and more micro-grids forming, ranging from a family with solar panels to hospitals, malls and small counties taking care of their own electricity needs.

The rise of smaller, local alternatives to the big utilities, such as Marin Clean Energy and Sonoma Clean Power, is known as community choice aggregation (CCA); the movement sparked in the Bay Area and has spread across the state. Small aggregators now have 2.5 million customer accounts. Marin Clean Energy (MCE) and Sonoma Clean Power (SCP) have both brought new customers to their utilities, and amassed significant reserves in recent years in order to offset any potential rate hikes. The PG&E bankruptcy has led to some uncertainty but won’t impact the rates of local CCA participants, say officials at the local utilities.

In a recent interview, as PG&E was about to file for bankruptcy protection, MCE chairman and chief executive Dawn Weisz told the Bohemian that “we partner with PG&E and are certainly monitoring the situation, and beyond that we don’t anticipate there being any impacts to our customers,” as she noted that the utility was sitting on about $50 million in reserves intended to absorb any rate fluctuations—while also serving to bolster the utilities’ credit rating. Sonoma Clean Power is carrying about $40 million in reserves, says SCP spokesperson Kate Kelly.

These local power hubs must report their activities to the state Energy Commission and the Public Utilities Commission, in much the way legacy utilities do. The companies are not currently subject to all of the same rules that govern the big utilities across a web of complex issues, including compliance with California’s clean-energy goals, but the state is in the process of formalizing additional regulations.

California’s grid operator and its cadre of electrical engineers are concerned that runaway innovation could outstrip oversight and create precisely what the grid, even the modern grid, can’t abide: imbalance.

“Changes are happening rapidly and we’re trying to keep up with that,” says Mark Rothleder, a vice president at the California Independent System Operator, which manages the state’s grid.

“There will be new players, new resources, new opportunities,” he says. “We have to be open to innovation and we have to ensure our technology that manages the grid can enable those resources. We have to pay attention.”

Source: CalMatters. CalMatters is a nonprofit, nonpartisan media venture explaining California policies and politics. This article was prepared in partnership with the ‘Sacramento Bee.’ Tom Gogola contributed reporting.

New Beginnings

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Santa Rosa solo artist Eki Shola has always used her music as a conduit for love and healing. Working on her keyboard, and backed by digital effects, the two-time Norbay Award winner for electronica crafts jazzy, ambient tones with ethereal melodies that often carry dreamlike messages of hope and a sense of gratitude for life.

In the aftermath of the Tubbs fire that destroyed Shola’s home, she turned to music, and this week debuts a new album, Possible, with a concert on Feb. 22 at the dhyana Center in Sebastopol.

“Everything burned,” says Shola. Even the contents inside her fireproof safe were incinerated. She decided to forego trying to recreate her recorded songs and instead used donated instruments and a new laptop to track down and rework old samples and bits of music she found in her emails and online correspondents going back more than a decade.

“My motto is ‘Work with what you have,'” she says. “I got these snippets and played with them, sampled them and built out entirely different songs from them.”

After writing more than 60 songs, she decided to release a trilogy of records she calls Pieces, beginning with Possible.

“There was a flow amongst the three albums,” she says. Possible represents Shola’s raw in-the-moment emotions in the months after the fires. The planned second record, Drift, is a meditation on loss and memory that layers together ambient effects and vocals. “That’s where my music evolved to,” she says. “Creating a cocoon that is melodic and soft and comforting.”

The final record, Essential, finds Shola taking stock post-fire and asking, “Now what?”

For the upcoming Possible album-release event, Shola hosts a family-friendly party featuring Michael Fortunato on horns, live visual artist Dirt E Bill, Forestville electronic artist Lenkadu, and members of California HOPE on hand for counseling outreach.

“This community has been amazing in terms of support post-fires,” says Shola. “This is my little way of saying thank you to everybody.”

Eki Shola performs on Friday, Feb. 22, at dhyana Center, 186 Main St.,
Ste. 240, Sebastopol. 7:30pm. Free;
all ages. ekishola.com.

To Die For

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Musical zombies rise from the dead to sing an evening of 1950s pop standards.

Let me try that again.

On Feb. 4, 1964, the Plaids, an eastern Pennsylvania-based vocal quartet, were headed for a major gig at the Fusel-Lounge at the Harrisburg Airport Hilton when their cherry-red Mercury was broadsided by a bus full of Catholic schoolgirls. The girls, who escaped unscathed, were on their way to see the Beatles on The Ed Sullivan Show.

The Plaids went on to that Great Performance Hall in the Sky—or at least the green room of the Great Performance Hall in the Sky. Rather than spend an eternity waiting to “go on,” they make their way back to earth to give the concert that never was.

That is the plot upon which Stuart Ross and James Raitt hang 24 musical standards in their very popular jukebox musical Forever Plaid, running through March 3 at Napa’s Lucky Penny Community Arts Center.

Frankie (F. James Raasch), Sparky (Scottie Woodard), Jinx (Michael Scott Wells) and Smudge (David Murphy) were high school friends who dreamed of musical glory. Following the path created by ’50s versions of what we now refer to as “boy bands” (the Four Lads, the Crew-Cuts, etc.), they formed the Plaids and specialized in four-part harmonies.

And that’s what you’ll hear over the Michael Ross-directed show’s one hour and 45-minute running time. “Three Coins in the Fountain,” “Sixteen Tons,” “Chain Gang” and “Love Is a Many Splendored Thing” are just some of the 20-plus songs performed by the crisply costumed gents (courtesy Barbara McFadden) with matching choreography by Woodard. Music is nicely performed by a trio consisting of music director Craig Burdette (keyboards), Quentin Cohen (drums) and Alan Parks (bass).

The guys are good, with each one getting a solo shot to go along with the group work. Their stock characters (the shy one, the funny one, etc.) banter with each other between numbers and amusingly engage with the audience. The comedic numbers are particularly well done, with the show’s highlight being a three-minute recreation of The Ed Sullivan Show, though it helps to have some familiarity with that show.

The same can be said for the music. Yes, it’s a trip down memory lane, but if toe-tapping, hand-squeezing and perpetual grinning are any indications, Forever Plaid hits all the right notes with an audience willing to make the trip.

Rating (out of 5): ★★★½

Awards Plight

First, they came for the dweebs, and I said nothing: one savors the Oscar shuffle over whether or not cinematographers and editors are going to be lauded on camera. It was a brilliantly idiotic move to edit the technical awards out, and the board of directors had to backtrack once the film industry set up a righteous squawk about the snub.

This drastic move toward a more streamlined Oscar night began years ago, when the ceremony started gliding over the technical awards. When they staged off-screen award lunches to honor the engineers, inevitably, lifetime award winners were left as mere B-roll, screwed out of their rightful place on the stage at the Kodak Theater. I wanted to hear what Charles Burnett had to say about the way the industry treated him, when he got his long-deserved honorary Oscar in 2017. But the Governors Awards broadcast put Burnett—director of indie masterpieces Killer of Sheep (1977) and To Sleep with Anger (1990)—onscreen for, like, 10 seconds.

The board of directors sawed through the “boring” parts in an effort to make the Oscar show more like the Golden Globes’ “everybody wins” participation trophy ceremony.

I watch no Globes, golden or otherwise, no Grammys either. I will have no other trophy shows before me except the longest-running, cruelest of them all, wherein old scores are settled, where deserving people get completely stiffed as mediocrities are exalted. Forecasting the awards is like The Casting Game: you want, you settle for, you get (as in, “You wanted Bernie, you settled for Hillary, you got Orange Thanos”).

Best Actress I’d prefer Melissa McCarthy for Can You Ever Forgive Me? but I literally don’t get a vote. I’d settle for Lady Gaga, who did a credible job animating a semi-dead warhorse. But half a dozen times Glenn Close has gone home with the special dishonor of the Oscar loser—shame! humiliation! defeat!—and this year she was nominated for
The Wife, in which she played, get this, a passed-over award winner.

Best Supporting Actress Always the most fascinating category, with a range of character actresses in age and personality. Regina King richly deserves it for If Beale Street Could Talk. Marina de Tavira is a real long shot, but the maternal opaqueness she brought to Roma—that quality that makes you go crazy trying to figure out your mother—is worth celebrating. Rachel Weisz has been in a number of much better movies than The Favourite, and we should remember them if or when she wins.

Best Actor Willem Dafoe was brilliant in At Eternity’s Gate, completely overcoming that calloused patch over the heart that long-time film watchers get about Vincent van Gogh. One would settle for Christian Bale’s transformation into the snarling Dick Cheney in the equally snarling Vice. There must be Academy members wondering if giving the Oscar to Bale would embarrass Cheney, seeing as nothing has been able to embarrass him previously. But they’ll probably give it to Viggo Mortensen for that bad popular movie where he plumped up and went full guido.

Best Supporting Actor
Richard E. Grant in Can You Ever Forgive Me?, not a breakthrough, but a role that epitomizes his screen efforts as a rotter. If Sam Rockwell wins, so be it. The best part of Vice was that shot of Rockwell, as President Bush, studying a piece of fried chicken as if it were a chess problem. Probably it’ll be Sam Elliott for being Sam Elliott in A Star Is Born, per critic James Rocchi’s Borgnine Rule: Whenever handicapping Oscars, just ask yourself, “Who would Ernest Borgnine vote for?” seeing as the Academy skews toward the AARP (and Elliott was on the cover of the AARP magazine).

Best Picture Win or not, Roma was the best picture of 2018. A Star Is Born is a serious contender, a tale of rehab hinging on the fiction that there is exactly one person controlling the music industry, and if you don’t please him, it’s curtains. If the mendacious Green Book is the winner, it’s neither better nor worse than any other based-on-a-true-story buddy movie. Anything but Bohemian Rhapsody, because if we follow the chain that leads from this to the biopics of Elton John and Bowie, we’re going to end up seeing Jared Leto dressed up as Jobriath, Adam Driver as Adam of Adam and the Ants, Paul Dano as both Ron and Russell Mael, and “so we beat on, boats against the current, borne back ceaselessly into the past.”

The Academy Awards ceremony will be broadcast on Sunday, Feb. 24, at 5pm on ABC.

Soup’s On!

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Located in the heart of Napa Valley, Yountville offers a cozy, walkable atmosphere. Its streets are lined with luxury hotels and famed neighborhood restaurants such as chef Thomas Keller’s French Laundry and celebrity chef Michael Chiarello’s Bottega, to name a few.

But one of the most approachable eateries within the 1.5-square miles of Yountville is a longtime favorite of locals and visitors alike, Bistro Jeanty.

Phillipe Jeanty arrived in Yountville in 1977 from Epernay, in the Champagne region of France, with the sole purpose of opening a restaurant on the property of Domaine Chandon winery. He left the winery restaurant and opened Bistro Jeanty in 1998; his vision was to create a menu that speaks to comfort food and incorporates French cuisine. In fact, one of the menu’s mainstays is an elegant presentation of tomato soup with a puffed pastry cover. Oh la la.

On a busy Saturday during lunchtime, I call to see about a last-minute reservation. The host at Bistro Jeanty proves accommodating, and five minutes following my phone call, we arrive, are seated and begin to peruse the menu and specials presented on a chalkboard at our table. A glass of Cabernet Sauvignon is ordered for my friend, while I decide to stick with sparkling water. We both agree the cheese plate would be nice, so we order one with my favorite French cheese, an Époisses de Bourgogne, known for its rind soaked in brandy ($12.50).

The cheese plate comes with slices of pear and candied walnuts. The cheese, as well as the pear slices, should have been served room temperature, but instead are chilled and difficult to spread on the large crackers that come with the plate. We have an easier time spreading the cheese on slices of baguette—if only the bread basket had arrived before we devoured most of the cheese!

It’s time to decide on our lunch course, but I knew all along I’d order a bowl of tomato soup ($13). What I hadn’t planned to order? The beet salad with marché greens topped with citrus vinaigrette ($13.50), a combination I deemed the perfect lunch on a rainy winter’s day.

My dining companion has the vegetarian bourguignon special ($23) on her radar, made with portabella mushrooms instead of beef, which, to her delight, is scrumptious. But she also adds an order of tomato soup after mine arrives.

As my companion now knows, among the list of menu selections at Bistro Jeanty that cater to foodies, the signature tomato soup is irresistible, especially once one has seen the piping hot steam rise from the bowl and let the puffed pastry soak in the soup before scooping up the saturation in all its tomato goodness.

My friend doesn’t regret ordering the soup, of course, and takes home the remainder of her main course. I eat every last bunch of marché and piece of yellow beet—and leave no trace of tomato soup or puffed pastry behind.

Bistro Jeanty, 6510 Washington St., Yountville. 707.944.01034.
bistrojeanty.com.

Street Value

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After an epic journey, Enkidu has returned to the wilderness—returned to the comparative wilderness of the Eighth Street warehouse district south of the town of Sonoma, that is.

Winemaker and founder Phillip Staehle named Enkidu Wines after a semi-domesticated demigod who plays a supporting role in the Epic of Gilgamesh, the original bromance of ancient Babylonia. While the tasting room has been somewhat peripatetic (English majors will be quick to note that’s not, like, a sad thing) over the past decade or so, popping up around Sonoma Valley, production has always been sensibly situated in this wine-soaked industrial park.

And to the classics majors: no, Enkidu’s recent retreat from pricey real estate on the Sonoma Plaza is not the sad part of the story, like its namesake’s exile to the underworld: Enkidu is participating in the Eighth Street Wineries Association’s annual tasting this Saturday, Feb. 23, with neighbors MacLaren, Obsidian, Stone Edge Farm, Talisman, Tin Barn, Ty Caton and William Knuttel, some of which are only open to the public for special events.

Enkidu’s signature wine is a Rhône-styled red blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre called Humbaba (after a beast that attempted to guard the cedar forest from Enkidu and his buddy Gilgamesh, who sometimes behaved badly), and it’s often sold out, but the new 2017 Humbaba ($28) premieres at the tasting, along with newly released 2016 Bedrock Vineyard Zinfandel ($38).

The 2017 Sonoma County Sauvignon Blanc ($22), though no longer sourced from Kick Ranch, maintains a tropical yet lean and zesty style. You want Cab, try the 2016 High Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon ($35). From all high-elevation vineyards, this savory, balanced wine from the new school of old-school California Cab sports enough of a juicy cassis core to win over a Cab-jaded palate, too. There’ll be a special event discount on top of these already fair prices, and that’s not to mention Enkidu’s “E” label wines, which won’t be poured on Saturday, but offer Sonoma County Pinot and old vine Zin for $25.

The event works like this: choose which winery you want to check in to (note that Enkidu is across the street from the other wineries), then taste all the wines you want, paired with small bites at each winery, from their chef or local catering favorites like Girl & the Fig—at $45 for lunch and a weekend’s worth of winetasting, a pretty civilized value.

Eighth Street Wineries Annual Open House, Saturday, Feb. 23, noon-4pm. Tickets, $45 advance; $50 door; $10 designated driver. $10 raffle tickets benefit La Luz Center in Sonoma.

Calistoga Calling

If you live in the North Bay, odds are that you’ve met at least one tourist who spent 10-plus hours in a plane to experience the culinary bounty and natural wonder that you can drive to any time you want. I don’t know about you, but that fact makes me feel a little guilty. So when the editor asked me to write about how a local could have a memorable day in Calistoga for $100, I knew it would be a great way to reconnect with our shared corner of the world.

However, there was a catch: I’d have to get up early.

A Cold Thursday Morning on Calistoga Road

Yawning profusely, I set out before dawn with my trusty companion, Blue (my Honda Fit). Reaching Santa Rosa, I turned onto Highway 12 before making a left on Calistoga Road. Blue reported that it was 28 degrees outside. A new record. The commuter traffic dissipated after a few minutes, and I joined a short convoy of cars making the slow, windy journey up the ridge. Although the drive was a bit hair-raising for this local accustomed to valley floor cruising, the view became more beautiful with each passing second. When I reached the crest that exposed the Napa Valley below, I was rewarded with a moving sight: light fog drifting through redwood groves more than one thousand feet below me. No wonder so many artists call this place home.

A Buttery Breakfast

I parked on Lincoln Avenue just after 8, and it seemed that most of Calistoga was still asleep, and the only people on the street were locals getting coffee or walking their dogs. I was desperately in need of warmth, caffeine and calories. Cafe Sarafornia (1413 Lincoln Ave.) was one of the few open spots where I could take refuge from the biting cold. The only other diners were an out-of-town couple and a few retirees. Warmed up by the coffee, I examined the breakfast menu and ordered the “2-two-2” ($10.95): two pancakes, two strips of bacon and two scrambled eggs. The hearty meal arrived less than five minutes later. The two cakes were topped with tiny orange slices and a golf ball–size pat of butter. Even after buttering up my cakes, there was still enough butter left for at least three more breakfasts. I cleaned my plate—minus the remaining butter pat.

Why can’t I eat like this every day?

Some Light Trespassing

It was a little warmer outside, and if I was going to have lunch in a few hours, I had to start burning off that fat breakfast. It was time for a long walk.

Like many first-time visitors to Calistoga, I quickly noticed the natural geyser next to Indian Springs Calistoga (1712 Lincoln Ave.), one of the many famous resorts where weary travelers soak in mineral water and mud. I’ve never understood the mud soaks, but to each his own. Infiltrating the Indian Springs grounds, I avoided workers driving around on golf carts as I approached my goal: the geyser. But, alas, the geyser was behind the main office. I settled for traversing the stone maze on the property’s edge.

Passersby must think I’m nuts, I thought as I tiptoed between the rocks.

A History Lesson

Not much is open in Calistoga before 11 am, so I spent an hour at Bella Bakery (1353 Lincoln Ave). The food, especially the impeccably glazed doughnuts that would make Homer Simpson drool, made me regret eating such a big breakfast. I got a coffee and busted out my laptop to do some work. Around me, Calistoga locals came and went. It’s a rule that when you go to a town with a touristy reputation, places the locals visit are the best places.

Near the end of my time at Bella Bakery, a Hispanic man approached me. “Do you speak languages?” He asked. Having forgotten most of my high school French and college Japanese, I shook my head. “I speak five languages,” he said before greeting me in Spanish and French. “Do you know who invented the color television?” Again, I shook my head. “He was a Mexican. Bless you and have a good day.” He promptly turned and left the cafe.

After a moment of stunned silence, I got on Wikipedia. When he was just 17, Guillermo González Camarena patented one of the first color TV transmission systems. And this was in 1934. How about that?

Getting Seasonal

After briefly visiting the Yäger Galerie to set up an interview appointment for later in the day (see sidebar), it was time to start thinking about lunch.

A weekday during the offseason is a strange, but amazing, time to have a meal in Calistoga. In other words, restaurants may feel deserted, but you receive special attention no matter where you eat.

All Seasons (1400 Lincoln Ave.) has nearly a hundred seats, but only four were occupied as I stepped inside just after noon. Taking a small table near the window, I ordered a glass of 2016 Saddleback Cellars Vermentino ($12), a cup of butternut squash soup ($9) and ahi tuna carpaccio ($16). The wine was dry and light, and it reminded me of Granny Smith apple slices tossed in lemon juice. The soup was another delight, perfect for a Northern California winter day. The smooth, creamy soup was even adorned with fried squash blossoms. Alas, the carpaccio was a bit off. The flavors—lime, bitter greens, ponzu sauce, sesame seeds—were all perfect, but the razor-thin tuna slices were lost in the mix.

You can’t win ’em all, I jotted down in my notebook before ordering another glass of the excellent Vermentino.

Appreciating
the Past

Just as ubiquitous as the spas in Calistoga are the antique stores. And as a history nerd, I wondered which one would have items that related to California and Calistoga history. Seeing the century-old wine presses in front of ROAM Antiques & Design (1124 Lincoln Ave.), I immediately knew that this store would be worth my time and then some.

Stepping inside, Shayna walked up to greet me. Shayna was a small, old white dog bundled up in a doggie sweater. I couldn’t help but scratch her behind the ears before introducing myself to her human, Barbra Hana-Austin. When she’s not helping out ROAM’s owner, Barbra keeps the past alive through her weekly podcast: Kosher Style Stories. In each episode, she weaves a yarn about her early life in New York City.

As I had hoped, the store featured many relics from California’s past, including various maps and a patinaed Hewlett-Packard test oscillator that was not just designed in Palo Alto, but actually built there in the 1950s.

Those were the days.

Heavy Metal Exposure

Tasting rooms are a dime a dozen in Calistoga, and for any new one to survive, it has to stand apart from the competition. No tasting room does this better than Tank Garage Winery (1020 Foothill Blvd.), an establishment that for the last five years has served customers from a repurposed 1930s garage and gas station. This boutique winery solely produces one-off wines. In other words, buy a bottle today—because once it’s gone, it’s gone forever.

What else sets Tank Garage apart—besides the prohibition-era décor, tasteful merch and fully-restored Indian motorcycle—is the employees’ attitude towards the tasting experience. Heath Cooley, one of the most approachable hosts I have ever met, took me through Tank Garage’s history while pouring me splashes of two smooth reds and two crisp whites, all blends of four to eight varietals. Tank Garage’s two owners wanted to create an approachable and casual tasting room. I think they’ve succeeded tremendously.

The tasting room’s most interesting feature involves something visitors may not notice on their first or 10th visit: the floor. The concrete’s reddish tinge owes its existence to heavy metals in the soil; six decades of auto work will do that. Heath recalled that the EPA made them tear up the foundation twice before they finally approved it. The way Health told it, it sounded like the feds just got tired of coming out there. But rest assured, dear readers: it’s safe to visit.

Thanks for comping the wine, Heath.

Revelations During the Drive Home

Leaving Calistoga just after 5pm, I got caught up in the traffic. However, the slow ride up the mountain gave me time to reflect on the excellent food and wine, the people I had met and the natural beauty. And just like in the morning, when I reached the top of the ridge, I saw a beautiful valley below me. But this time it was the Valley of the Moon. It was good to be home.

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Ira Yeager

A Portrait of the Artist and His Passion

Situated on the Napa River’s east bank, the Yäger Galerie’s two rooms tell a unique story on every wall. Stepping inside, visitors are not only greeted by impressionist paintings depicting 17th-century French rural life, but also artifacts: loaves of bread on wooden racks, a food preparation table covered in flour, and a wine press. Standing in the first room, the artifacts, all collected by the artist during his 65-year career, feel like natural extensions of the art hanging on the walls. The effect is that visitors become immersed in a more intimate experience than that most galleries and museums provide.

The Yäger Galerie owes its existence not only to the artist, who, at 80, still works daily in his Calistoga studio, but also to Brian Fuller, the gallery’s director and Yeager’s representative for the last 25 years. The gallery, open since June 2018, represents Fuller’s passion for bringing the painter’s work to a larger audience.

Born in Bellingham, Wash., in 1938, Ira Yeager became interested in painting as a teenager. At 18, he moved to San Francisco. At the time, the Bay Area figurative movement rebelled against abstract expressionism (e.g., Jackson Pollock) by returning to more recognizable forms. A “starving artist” in his early years, Yeager studied at what was then called the California College of Arts and Crafts and the San Francisco Art Institute before, at the age of 21, traveling to Florence, Italy, to study at the city’s famed Accademia d’Arte.

Although Yeager has made multiple trips to Europe to gain both inspiration and many of the artifacts on display in his gallery, his formative years studying under figurative movement artists continues to influence his style. “My continued seven-day-a-week painting schedule only excites me more for new fertile ventures on the canvas, daringly playing out that exhilarating game of chaos versus order,” he writes on his website. In fact, one of Yeager’s newest pieces currently hangs just right of the entrance. Next to it, just like the rest of the work on display, is a small plaque indicating the painting’s name, date, and price.

As Fuller and I stood next to a larger canvas in the front room (it was $15,000), he explained that the plaques had just gone up the day I visited. He had struggled with the decision for months, trying to balance the needs of collectors who want to know prices against the sensitivities of others who visit the gallery solely for cultural enrichment. To the latter group, seeing prices could make them feel awkward and want to leave. At that moment, a couple and their four young children entered. Mr. Fuller greeted them warmly and invited them to stay as long as they wanted. The children were less interested in the art than whether the loaves of bread were real. “They are,” gallery assistant Ren Ta explained, “but they’re probably really stale by now.”

The Yäger Galerie’s backroom is a contrast to the front. Although many of the works inspire fantasies of the French countryside, a large portion of the room is dedicated to featuring works from Yeager’s

Indian Summer: Portraits of Nobility series. These portraits, painted on canvas, rusty metal signs and even the door from an old Ford truck, depict Plains Indians with an emphasis on male chiefs and warriors. Beside them are many of the original tools Yeager used to create these works. They leave the impression that the artist will return at any moment and continue painting.

Yäger Galerie visitors can expect a new experience every time they walk inside. Not only does new work take the place of sold pieces, but Fuller is also continually experimenting with new themes and arrangements. The back room has hosted more than Yeager’s art. A Boston quartet recently played there, to patrons’ delight. Fuller also hopes to one day use the space as a teaching environment for children interested in the arts.

I left the Yäger Galerie with a deep respect for the man and his art. I can heartily recommend that those planning trips to Calistoga add modern art to their itineraries alongside delectable food, fantastic wine and stunning nature.

The Yäger Galerie is open daily from 11am-5pm. Walk-ins are welcome, and prospective buyers can set up viewing appointments by calling 707. 341.3141.

Cleanup Crew

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In the wake of the 2017 wildfires, a wave of federal contractors descended on Sonoma County, promising to manage the situation for those recovering from the disaster. It would prove to be the largest wildfire cleanup the federal government had ever managed—but, in many ways, it did not go well.

As the recovery got underway, local politicians told media outlets that they had spotted workers for one company, AshBritt Environmental, operating without proper safety equipment. In January 2018, the same company ceased its debris-removal work for several days while filing complaints against other federal contractors.

In December 2017, an employee of one of AshBritt’s subcontractors was crushed to death by his own truck while working at a Petaluma garbage dump.

A report by KQED published in July last year found that the federal cleanup in the Bay Area was far more expensive per-house than the state-run cleanup after the Thomas fire in 2015.

Meanwhile, AshBritt has been attempting to get more work in the state, in line with the disaster-service company’s time-honored strategy: develop local, state and federal political connections, give money to both political parties, and hope for the best.

In early December 2018, as the cleanup for the Butte County Camp fire got underway, following a U.S. Government Accountability Office report unpacking the federal government’s use of contractors during its response to the 2017 disasters, California officials announced that they would manage the cleanup of the 2018 fires in an effort to solve some of the problems identified in the GAO report.

By the time Governor-elect Gavin Newsom and President Donald Trump met in the wreckage of Paradise in November, both men—or political action committees supporting them—had accepted campaign contributions from AshBritt. A month before the Paradise meet-up, Ashbritt hired Platinum Advisors, the powerhouse Sacramento lobbying firm headed by Darius Anderson, and set out to try and secure the cleanup contracts in Butte County.

But the AshBritt strategy appears not to have worked as it sought to get a piece of the cleanup business in Butte County; AshBritt was rejected for two contracts in this year’s state-run cleanup after submitting high bids, according to a CalRecycle spokesperson.

STILL IN THE RUNNING?

Last Aug. 18, Mark Ghilarducci, director of the California Governor’s Office of Emergency Services (OES), wrote a letter to the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers that detailed the feds’ poor showing in the 2017 cleanup. In Sonoma County alone, he noted, there were “600 reports of over-scraping, 80 additional properties that are so over-excavated a major engineering fix will be required and 260 properties with other damage to septic systems, wells, driveways, and retaining walls.”

The federal government’s 2017 North Bay cleanup cost an average of $280,000 per house compared with $77,000 during the state-managed 2015 Valley fire cleanup, according to an analysis by KQED. AshBritt invoiced the Army Corps for a total of $320,351,681.07 for its work in California from October 2017 through June of 2018, according to federal records.

In December, state officials announced that a state agency would oversee this year’s wildfire cleanup after state and local officials criticized the work of federal contractors during the cleanup effort in the North Bay last year. Ghilarducci also criticized the federal agency for its “egregious oversight” of contractors.

“Given these subcontractors were paid per ton of soil removed, it is probable this over-excavation was an intentional effort to capitalize on this tragedy by defrauding the government,” Ghilarducci wrote.

Ghilarducci’s letter was well-received by Sonoma County Supervisor Shirlee Zane. The letter aligned with the complaints of many fire victims.

“This letter is just awesome, because this is exactly what we were talking about, that these fire survivors were victimized because of the negligence in the hiring of these contractors by the Corps of Engineers,” Zane told the Press Democrat at the time.

In fact, the 2017 cleanup went so poorly that the California officials announced in December that CalRecycle would manage the cleanup of the November 2018 fires instead of the federal government.

HURRICANE KATRINA PARALLELS

The 2017 fires were not the first time AshBritt faced criticism for its work, as the Bohemian has previously reported (See “Fire Wall,” Sept. 18, 2018).

A congressional oversight report about the debris-removal process after Hurricane Katrina swept through the Gulf Coast found that the Army Corps of Engineers awarded no-bid debris-removal contracts to four companies immediately after the hurricane struck.

After receiving federal contracts, the companies went on to set up “contracts with four or more layers of subcontractors collecting a cut, while the people doing the actual work receive pennies on the dollar,” according to the report.

“In addition, there are reports of double-billing for debris, making excess claims based on mileage, receiving payment for ineligible debris, and other fraudulent practices,” the 2006 congressional report states.

The report resulted in a policy change undertaken by the federal government’s disaster-response agencies. Instead of awarding contracts in the wake of disasters, FEMA would now pre-award disaster contracts long in advance of disasters.

The policy change does not appear to have changed the results. Three companies who won contracts after Katrina—AshBritt, ECC and Ceres Environmental Services—were awarded competitive debris-removal contracts in 2014 by the Army Corps of Engineers and were later called on to respond to the 2017 fires by FEMA.

A Dec. 6, 2018, report from the U.S. Government Accountability Office about the use of federal contracts in response to 2017 wildfires and hurricanes found numerous flaws that affected the cleanup process in California.

For instance, federal and state officials had differing expectations about “what structures would be removed from private property and acceptable soil contamination levels,” according to the GAO report.

There were also communication issues identified by the GAO. For instance, state officials were in contact with FEMA officials, but not those in charge of regional contracts, according to the report.

Contractors also exploited a clause in the Army Corps contract allowing them to charge by weight instead of volume.

“While hurricane debris is often priced by volume, [Army Corps] officials stated that the wildfire debris had to be priced by tonnage, and wrapped to prevent contamination,” the GAO report states.

An April 2018 lawsuit brought by a San Francisco law firm alleges that an AshBritt subcontractor, Tate’s Tree Service & Construction, did not pay minimum wage, and failed to compensate employees for lunch breaks, overtime and rest periods, while operating without licenses required to work in California.

AshBritt and Justin Tate, the owner of Tate’s Tree Service, were fined by the Contractors State License Board for operating without the proper licenses, according to KQED. In court filings, lawyers for AshBritt refuted all of the lawsuit’s claims. The case is pending.

The Army Corps will award new debris-removal contracts for its South Pacific Region, the region that covers California, Nevada, Utah, Arizona and New Mexico, in
April 2019, according to the December GAO report.

The Army Corps did not respond to questions about whether the debris-removal contract for the district has been changed in any way to avoid the issues that emerged during the 2017 fire cleanup locally.

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CALIFORNIA CONNECTIONS

In January, AshBritt’s name started surfacing in press coverage of the Butte County fire-recovery process. On Jan. 10, the Sacramento Bee reported that AshBritt’s former CEO, Randall Perkins, had toured the area in search of work. Ten days later, when PG&E announced plans to file for bankruptcy, AshBritt halted its tree-removal work for the utility, according to a report in the Chico Enterprise-Record.

By early 2019, the embattled utility and the disaster recovery had both hired Platinum Advisors, whose founder, Darius Anderson, is also the founder of Rebuild North Bay, the principal in Kenwood Investments and the managing partner of Sonoma Media Investments, which owns the Press Democrat and numerous other publications in the North Bay.

In the new year, state officials have apparently distanced themselves from the cleanup challenges from 2018, if not from Ghilarducci’s letter to the Army Corps. At a Jan. 10 community event in Butte County, Eric Lamoureux, deputy director at OES, downplayed the damage done via the federal debris removal contractors in Sonoma County
last year.

Lamoureux sought to “counter rumors heard that crews left big holes in last year’s Bay Area fire cleanups,” according to the Chico Enterprise-Record. Lamoureux’s account differed significantly from the letter sent by his boss Ghilarducci, to the Army Corps of Engineers just five months earlier.

For its part, AshBritt enhanced its political contributions and charitable donations at the local, state and federal levels after the criticisms against it surfaced late last year.

In October 2018, AshBritt hired Ballard Partners, a lobbying firm known for its close relationship to President Donald Trump. Earlier in the year, the company contributed $500,000 to America First Action, a Trump-supporting political action committee.

In California, AshBritt’s former CEO Randall Perkins contributed $250,000 to the California Democratic Party; current CEO Brittney Perkins donated $29,200 to Gavin Newsom’s campaign in the final months of the state elections, as first reported by KQED. And at the local level, the company has an ally in a local newspaper investor and lobbyist. In October, AshBritt hired Platinum Advisors for representation in Sacramento (according to a state disclosure form published in December)
two weeks after telling the Bohemian that it had no connection to Anderson. AshBritt paid Platinum Advisors $60,000 for its services between Oct. 1 and
Dec. 31, according to a state disclosure form.

REBUILD NORTH BAY

On Nov. 28, 2017, the Community Foundation Sonoma County hosted a conference called Resilience Convening, to discuss local recovery efforts.

In a panel discussion, Anderson represented the Rebuild North Bay Foundation, the nonprofit he founded in October 2017, meant to bridge the gap between businesses and public interest during the regional fire recovery for six months to five years after the fires.

“This is a public-private partnership,” Anderson told the attendees. “We really believe that if we are going ahead and meeting that ultimate goal of building back greener, cleaner and stronger than before the fires, we have to have our people in the public sector as our partners.”

From the beginning, Rebuild North Bay placed itself at the center of the rebuilding process and brought in James Lee Witt, former FEMA director under President Bill Clinton, to lead the organization. Its honorary board boasts a cross-section of shareholders that has included labor representation, a PG&E official and the wife of a Sonoma County supervisor.

“The majority of the money we need to rebuild our community is going to have to come in partnership with the federal government, the state government and local governments,” Anderson said at the November conference.

Jennifer Gray Thompson, who took over for Witt as the organization’s second director, voiced the need for “a new regional reality,” in an interview with the North Bay Business Journal, which is part of the Sonoma Media Investment portfolio of publications.

A slideshow from the presentation also states Rebuild planned to “partner with the Press Democrat” and pledged to “ensure transparency in the community.”

Rebuild North Bay did not respond to an emailed request for comment. An email sent to Platinum Advisors for comment was not returned.

In the months since the conference, Rebuild and Anderson have made the news a few times, but the news hasn’t always made it into the pages of the Press Democrat.

For example, in March, the Bohemian reported that Platinum Advisors took on PG&E as a client just days before state legislators began to consider new legislation to regulate the utility. Steven Malnight, senior vice president for strategy and policy at PG&E, serves on Rebuild North Bay’s board of directors.

Steve Falk, the Press Democrat‘s publisher, told the San Francisco Chronicle last August that Anderson is not involved in newsroom decisions.

[page]

“We have made that line absolutely clear in the sand—and not a single investor [in the Press Democrat] or Darius has stepped over that line once,” Falk told the Chronicle.

But there’s been notable absence of critical coverage of AshBritt in Anderson’s papers in the months since the company hired Platinum Advisors in October. The paper has covered several local press-friendly events sponsored by AshBritt. In early November, for example, AshBritt sponsored a North Bay Business Journal conference about the cleanup process.

The conference was covered in the Journal and the Press Democrat, but neither paper mentioned the complaints about AshBritt’s work in the county (which the Press Democrat had previously covered).

The paper did not mention allegations of possible fraud by federal contractors mentioned in Ghilarducci’s letter to the Army Corps. It did not mention AshBritt’s role in over-excavating local lots, or the December 2017 death of a truck driver hired by an AshBritt subcontractor (an event that the Press Democrat reported on at the time).

The company also contributed $450,000 to construct walls in Coffey Park in partnership with the Rebuild North Bay Foundation, according to the Press Democrat. Rebuild’s website says the project cost $650,000.

The Press Democrat’s coverage of a Nov. 8 ribbon-cutting event featured a photograph of Supervisor James Gore helping to knock the old Coffey Park wall, but failed to mention that Anderson’s firm had by then started to lobby for the company, or that Gore’s wife, Elizabeth, is on the board of Rebuild North Bay.

In response to a Bohemian article about the wall published last September, AshBritt’s then–general counsel Jared Moskowitz said “the suggestion that AshBritt made the donation because of some connection to Darius Anderson is unequivocally false.” Two weeks later, AshBritt hired Anderson’s lobbying firm to represent its interests in Sacramento.

Moskowitz, who served in the Florida House of Representatives as a Democrat when he talked to the Bohemian, was selected to lead the Florida Division of Emergency Management in December 2018.

For the past several months, the Press Democrat has also published a series of special sections on the recovery process titled “Rebuild North Bay.” The sections do not directly mention a partnership with the nonprofit of the same name, but those stories do occasionally mention the nonprofit and include the obligatory mention of Anderson’s ownership stake in the Press Democrat.

Given Anderson’s multiple intersecting interests in California business and politics, Platinum Advisors appeared well-positioned to provide AshBritt with the connections it needed to get more work in California. But it was not to be.

PUBLIC-PRIVATE PARTNERSHIPS

Shortly after founding Rebuild North Bay, Anderson announced the organization’s first hire. Witt was recruited to lead the nonprofit for several months in the hope of connecting local governments with federal disaster response money. At the time, the Bohemian was the only paper in town to highlight Witt’s numerous business interests in the so-called “disaster capitalism” economy.

Witt left Rebuild in early 2018. At the Global Climate Action Summit in September, Supervisor James Gore and Witt gave separate speeches at the same event about the need for “climate resilience” in the coming years.

In his speech, Witt, who has worked as a lobbyist and consultant since leaving FEMA in 2001, announced a partnership with the National Association of Counties called Project Impact 2.

“In early 2019, Project Impact 2 will launch—this time backed by the private sector. This project is a nationwide campaign with the goal of engaging community leaders and the public to tackle future impacts of increasingly frequent and severe weather events and climate change,” Witt wrote in a Nov. 30 op-ed online at msn.com.

Gore’s wife, Elizabeth Gore, serves as president of Rebuild North Bay Foundation’s board of directors.

Gore says he has served as the board chair of the National Association of Counties Resilience Committee since January 2017.

“I met Witt immediately after our fires, but since we as a county had no formal relationship with his firm, I did not work with him,” says Gore, adding that he had a few phone calls with Witt before the Global Climate Action Summit about a possible partnership between the Resiliency Committee and Witt.

“We had a few calls, were interested in the concept, announced a potential partnership at the summit, but ultimately no true partnership was formed,” Gore says.

A spokesperson at the National Organization of Counties says that the organization is still “evaluating how best to advance the concept [of Project Impact 2].”

On Jan. 8, Gore voted along with three other supervisors—Shirlee Zane was not at the meeting—to make Rebuild a fiscal agent for block captain programs in Zane’s district.

“The District 3 block captain group needed a legal entity to act as a fiscal agent to be able to receive the [county] grant funds for the community engagement activities they are going to pursue,” says county spokesperson Briana Khan of the contract.

“Most fiscal agents charge an administrative fee for fund management, but Rebuild North Bay offered to waive fees,” adds Khan.

The supervisor’s vote does not meet state standards for a conflict of interest since Elizabeth Gore’s position on the Rebuild’s board is unpaid, according to Sonoma County Counsel Bruce Goldstein.

Anderson is now listed as Rebuild’s Immediate Past Board President on the nonprofit’s website. Late last year, the Bohemian reported on a multimillion-dollar fraud settlement with the Graton Casino that looped in another of his entities, Kenwood Investments.

Along with his work for Rebuild, Witt also has connections with AshBritt. He has worked on many projects with the company. An AshBritt spokesperson told the Bohemian in September that the company had never worked for or hired Witt, but that AshBritt has been monitored by Witt’s company, Witt O’Brien’s, “dozens of times” in other disaster-recovery efforts.

However, Witt Associates—the consulting company Witt founded after leaving FEMA—and AshBritt are named as partners on the disaster-removal contract with Alameda County signed in 2011.

Under that contract, Witt Associates would use its proprietary software, WittTrak, to track AshBritt’s expenditures and draw up the documents required to file for FEMA reimbursements, among other roles.

“Witt Associates, Inc. consults on public safety and crisis management, with experience in emergency management, from preparedness and mitigation through response and recovery,” an Alameda County staff report from the time states.

The disaster-response world is a small one, and Witt’s consulting companies are well placed in it, largely due to Witt’s experience at FEMA and his political connections.

For instance, some familiar names advised the Little Hoover Commission, a body described online as “California’s Independent Oversight Agency,” in the creation of an April 2006 report on the state’s disaster-response plans.

Ghilarducci, who went on to become the director of Cal OES under Gov. Jerry Brown and now Gavin Newsom, worked as the director of Western States Regional Office of James Lee Witt Associates, according to a list of witnesses interviewed for the report. According to Witt’s 2002 biography, Stronger in the Broken Places, Ghilarducci also worked for Witt at FEMA following the Oklahoma City bombing in 1995.

In his capacity as head of Rebuild North Bay, Witt acted as a liaison between Cal OES and other disaster response agencies, according to an interview he gave to the Press Democrat in 2017 that failed to provide any detail on his numerous outside business interests.

Representatives for Witt and Cal OES did not respond to requests for comment on the relationship between the two men.

Also listed in the report is Leon Panetta, the chief of staff to Clinton who later became Secretary of Defense in the Obama administration. In a 2017 interview with the San Francisco Business Times, Anderson said that he had hired Witt to lead Rebuild North Bay on the recommendation of Panetta.

Last June, the Santa Rosa City Council approved an $88,000 contract for Witt O’Brien’s—a company that resulted from a merger between Witt Associates and another company—to complete an after-action report for the fire department. James Lee Witt is no longer associated with Witt O’Brien’s, according to the website of Witt Global Partners.

PREEXISTING CONTRACTS

AshBritt has a longer history in the Bay Area than first meets the eye.

In September 2014, the Sonoma County Board of Supervisors approved a contract with AshBritt, as an extension of a contract the company signed with Alameda County in 2011.

The contract with AshBritt is known as a “turnkey contractor” for its ability to give full-service response and immediate enhanced access to federal disaster response dollars. It’s meant to provide peace of mind to local governments who lack the resources to plan and implement a disaster response plan on their own.

Politically connected contractors are also necessary to navigate the state and federal bureaucracies and extract as much recovery funding as possible.

“The process of recovering funds from FEMA is highly complex with frequent rule changes, and one in which errors can cost local governments millions,” Alameda County staff advised the county’s board of supervisors in 2011 before signing the contract with AshBritt.

Alameda and Sonoma counties have both extended their contracts with AshBritt until July 31, 2021—but the county’s contract was not in effect during the county’s recovery from the fires, according to Michael Gossman, a deputy county administrator in charge of the Office of Recovery and Resiliency..

“There was never an obligation to use the contract, and so termination never came up,” explains Gossman. “As part of the federal assistance provided, the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers procured work from the contractors the federal government selected, including AshBritt.”

The Gus Is Loose!

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To say chef Gustavo Rios knows his way around the culinary scene in Calistoga is a safe bet. Upon his arrival over a decade ago, he had already honed experience at some of the best restaurants on the east and west coasts.

Known as Gus (pronounced like “goose”) to his close friends and family, Rios began his career at River’s Inn Restaurant in Virginia, where he managed a small tapas-style kitchen. From there he worked in a kitchen at the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains and at the Inn at the Little Washington, a five-star restaurant in Virginia.

In 2002, Rios decided to move to the West Coast to experience the rising culinary scene of California. He worked at the Peninsula Beverly Hills Hotel in Los Angeles as chef’s assistant before joining the Thomas Keller team at Michelin star–rated Bouchon Bistro in Yountville in 2005, where he served as chef de partie.

A few years later, Rios left Bouchon Bistro for mentoring from seven-time Michelin star recipient Brandon Sharp at Solbar, the restaurant at Solage, an Auberge Resort in Calistoga. During his seven years at Solbar, Rios played an integral team role in achieving those Michelin star awards. Rios was recognized in 2013 for his dedication and passion as Manager of the Year, and climbed from his role as chef de partie to executive sous chef and chef de cuisine before an irresistible opportunity surfaced in 2015: Rios joined forces with Sharp to create the concept for a Calistoga-based French bistro. Which would become Evangeline.

When Evangeline opened its doors in 2015, Rios took on the task as head of culinary operations and executive chef. While Sharp soon returned to his hometown in North Carolina, Rios shined with creativity; some say he started a “to-go” fried chicken cult following on Thursdays during the summertime Calistoga Concerts in the Park. It’s safe to say Rios has been an integral part of Evangeline’s success and popularity, and that he has elevated the culinary scene in Calistoga and the Napa Valley.

This year, Rios returned to Solbar as executive chef. He plans to continue to draw on his deep, long-standing relationships with top Napa Valley farmers and winemakers to take the culinary operations at this hot spot resort in Calistoga up a notch, perhaps securing a Michelin star again.

Most notable about Rios is his commitment to using whatever is in season. “We are extremely spoiled with what is available right in our backyard,” he says. “I cook what I cook because of people like Barni from Forni Brown or Kory from Wineforest [mushrooms], or Tim from K&J Orchards.”

At Solbar, the first order of business for Rios is to re-create comfort with ever-changing menus featuring seasonal, soulful dishes that celebrate bold flavors and incorporate his Latin background, his innovative methods and his experience in European cooking. Signature dishes such as Solbar’s fish tacos will remain, and prix fixe tasting menus will be added to showcase some of the top local and world-renowned wineries such as Chateau Montelena, Eisele Vineyard and Knights Bridge.

Chef Rios has no qualms about his return. “It’s home for me, and when this opportunity presented itself, it was an easy decision to return and reestablish the restaurant as one of the very best.”

Letters to the Editor: February 20, 2019

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