Covering Cover Bands

The tell in this tale is the longevity of these bands (“Playing Tribute,” July 10, 2019). If it did not pay, the players would not stay. The sad thing is that tribute bands, and cover bands, have been shouldering aside original music more and more for at least the past decade. While way back in the day cover bands were the norm, the ’60s and ’70s set us on a more creative path. Too bad the good ride is over, and we are sliding down the slippery slope to nothing new.

Via Bohemian.com

Community
Supported
Reporting

Terrific idea (“Crowdfunded Journalism,” June 3, 2019). You might want to limit the size of an individual’s contribution so there is no undue influence.

Via Bohemian.com

Kudos to
Lawmakers

Assembly Bill 392 just passed the California Assembly and Senate and the 5,200-member-strong Sonoma County Chapter of the American Civil Liberties Union would like to express its appreciation to legislators Mark McGuire, Jim Wood, Marc Levine and Bill Dodd for their “aye” votes.

The bill’s premise is simple: it updates California’s use-of-force laws to make sure that police officers avoid using deadly force at every possible opportunity, privileging de-escalation measures and other steps. Police should never take a human life when they have alternatives. Right now, police officers in California can use deadly force and kill someone even when they have other options. In 2017 alone, police officers killed 172 Californians, 37 percent higher than the national average. This policy is in force elsewhere and has led to a decline in serious use of force without any negative impact on officer or public safety.

Together with the recently introduced law on Transparency in Police Records, AB 392, this signals a long-needed improvement in our state’s protection of civil rights and liberties.

ACLU of Sonoma County

Clear the Way

“I’m not gonna use words like ‘concerned,'” supervisor James Gore said in the Press Democrat on July 10. “I’m actually pissed that more people aren’t doing more. … If you get burnt, and you are not clearing your land, you can’t call yourself a victim on the other side of it.”

Possibly the supervisors can show concern for the decades of build-up of easily ignited vegetation along all of the unincorporated county roads. The roads used to act as fire breaks. Now the brush along the roads are tinder waiting for ignition to happen. Possibly the county can perform the work they are responsible for—cleaning the ditches and clearing the brush on their land and right-of-ways. Maybe they can start fining public works for their lack of brush removal and the build-up of ladder fuel under the power lines.

Cazadero

Write to us at le*****@******an.com.

Popping Up

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Napa’s CIA at Copia hosts a series of pop-up dinners highlighting alumni and Napa businesses.

“When a CIA alum approached me about opportunities at Copia, the idea was formed,” says Tom Bensel, the culinary center’s managing director. “We selected some of our partners who have worked on previous programs with us to give them another venue to showcase their talent.”

The series, held at Copia’s Grove, stretches across several Mondays, focusing on one chef at a time through November. Monday might not be everyone’s idea of a night out, but, the good news is, not much else usually happens. “Mondays are a day when people are open to new ideas,” Bensel explains. “It’s the start of a new week. There are a lot of people who work in the hospitality industry who have off on Mondays, so we are providing a gathering place for our friends in the valley to enjoy a nice summer night.”

The series started this month with CIA grads Itamar Tamar Abramovitch and Nate Smith who now run Blossom Catering Company. The dinner featured Israeli cuisine. Another dinner highlighted Napa’s Contimo Provisions which offered an aperitivo dinner of flatbreads, house-cured meats and other snacks, followed by a meaty main course. The final event on July 22 will showcase Spanish tapas and drinks by CIA at Copia Special Events Chef Rodrigo Vazquez.

“(These events) enable us to show the public that we are more than an event space, and there’s always a new experience to be had when you visit us,” says Bensel. “We want to bring the CIA’s thought leadership to the public through all our offerings at Copia. And it doesn’t always have to be serious—the pop-ups are meant to be fun.” And delicious.

Still Classic

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Sonoma Arts Live concludes their “toast to the classics” with a production of My Fair Lady, running now through July 28.

Lerner and Loewe’s musical adaptation of George Bernard Shaw’s Pygmalion was a smash hit when it premiered on Broadway in 1956, but modern sensibilities have taken a toll on the tale of a Cockney flower girl molded into a princess by a demanding man.

Eliza Doolittle (Sarah Wintermeyer) dreams of being a lady in a flower shop, and after a run-in with linguistics Professor Henry Higgins (Larry Williams), she shows up on his doorstep for elocution lessons. Higgins makes a bet with visiting linguist Colonel Pickering (Chad Yarish) that by training Eliza to speak properly, he can pass her off as a lady. Ah, but then what?

Attitudes and insults that were played for comedy half a century ago (Higgins refers to Eliza as “a squashed cabbage leaf,” a “draggletailed guttersnipe” and a “presumptuous insect” among other things) appear today as the rantings of a misanthropic misogynist. Higgins is not a nice guy.

Eliza comes across a bit better these days, though the feisty, independent woman who escapes the clutches of her abusive father Alfred (Tim Setzer) and demands the right to be who she wants to be still comes up against an ending that, while modified, remains problematic.

That’s no fault of the terrific cast. Eliza is a role Wintermeyer seems born to play; her performance is exemplary. “I Could Have Danced All Night” was a musical highlight. Williams’ Higgins leans appropriately to the chauvinistic side with just a glimpse of who he might become with “I’ve Grown Accustomed to Her Face.” Chad Yarish is fun as the somewhat-chivalrous Pickering, and all three are a delight in “The Rain in Spain.” They’re supported by a very strong ensemble.

It’s a huge show (in many ways) and a very ambitious undertaking for this company. Director Michael Ross, scenic designer Rahman Dalrymple and choreographer Staci Arriaga did a pretty good job in adapting to the relatively small space. Utilizing both the stage and the auditorium floor as performance areas, parts occasionally do get lost, depending on where you are seated. And you’ll never see music director James Raasch and the fine seven-piece orchestra, as they are tucked backstage.

Script issues aside, in style and execution this Lady is more than fair.

Rating (out of 5):★★★&#9733

‘My Fair Lady’ runs through July 28 at Andrews Hall in the Sonoma Community Center, 276 E. Napa St., Sonoma. Thursday–Saturday, 7:30pm; Sunday, 2pm. $25–$40. 866.710.8942. sonomaartslive.org.

Noci Sonoma

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Outstanding in his Field CEO and head gardener Christopher Adjani says Noci will offer u-pick fruit
and vegetables as well as activities like volleyball and movie nights.

Noci Sonoma interrupts the parade of vineyards stretching the length of Dry Creek Valley with a 24-acre patch of dirt that’s growing something new and quite different from its neighbors.

They call it an “edible garden adventure club,” which, if that isn’t perfectly clear, roughly translates as, “u-pick gone wild.” Heavily Instagrammable.

All that’s required to experience Noci is a membership or a tour, a handy set of clippers and a basket—both of which can be bought at the modishly minimalist, black-painted farm stand—and a pair of sensible walking shoes. And also, for now, a bit of an imagination.

Noci CEO and head gardener Christopher Adjani describes the work in progress as he leads visitors from the farm stand, past a noisy welding operation that will soon yield metal tables set around an outdoor cooking fire pit, down a boardwalk made of Brazilian teak and into lush, green avenues of clover and grass.

Where I see a large, muddy puddle, he sees a cascading series of ponds filled with water-purifying plants and capped with a 10-foot, functional waterfall. Where I see steel wire strung between a repeating theme of archways of rusty metal, he sees living walls composed of blackberries, raspberries, kiwis and wisteria, 12 feet high and hundreds of feet long. As Adjani describes gardens in terms of rooms, as private spaces for not only fruit picking and lettuce clipping, but also for hanging out and relaxing in—and Instagramming, natch—my mind begins to wrap around the concept like a vine tendril gripping a trellis wire, climbing for the sky.

Adjani leads the design-focused garden tours, while his wife and Noci cofounder Aria Alpert Adjani leads tours focused on culinary applications. The land was in a state of neglect when they purchased the property five years ago, Adjani says. The existing vineyard had been bulldozed, trellis and all, into the dirt. The couple spent the first year cleaning up the ground, which isn’t much good for wine grapes anyway, according to Adjani. Saturated for much of the year, the land is situated at the confluence of Dry Creek and a former waterway which was re-routed years ago. Instead of adding more asphalt for the parking lot, they put down circular pavers made from recycled plastic and set in gravel. Grass grows on top of the pavers, and drainage pipes underneath move rainwater toward the ponds where it filters through lily pads and other water plants.

We arrive at the back of the garden, which was planted earlier than the rest, and has more mature trees and beds of asparagus gone to ferns. Adjani points out a row of blueberry bushes, the first planting of all, which got him to thinking about the whole plan.

And what’s this, nearby, a rioting trellis of grapevines after all? They’re Concord grapes, good for making jam, and the tent-like structure that holds them would make a fun tunnel for kids to run through. The membership model, Adjani hopes, allows people to feel more at home in the gardens than simply stopping and shopping. “We’re not a farmers market,” Adjani says. Members can find out if their favorite fruit tree, of some 900 fruit trees, is in season from the “train station” styled schedule in the main farm stand, and then picnic at one of 18 black-painted, luxury resort-styled shade decks spread around the acreage. Activities will also be scheduled—jam-making classes, movie nights, volleyball on the lawn. “If we just had the garden, I don’t think people would use it.”

Also still to come is an architecturally striking root cellar that may or may not become an actual root cellar, but the partially grass-roofed structure will definitely include Noci offices on the second level and more space for…something. “Until we actually do something,” Adjani explains, “we don’t know how we’re going to use it.”

In the distance across the pond basin, I can barely make out two unmoving, silent sentry-like objects, but I get the feeling they’re watching us. They are—they’re big, shaggy sheep dogs. The Adjanis tried out a flock of sheep, but decided that pastoralism wasn’t going to work for them. Instead, the grassed pathways are mowed with a $10,000 electric mower that saves $10,000 a year on gasoline, Adjani says.

Doing a quick calculation on a Mac terminal at the farm stand, Adjani comes up with a figure of $6 per pound. That’s about how much the u-pick produce will cost members at any of the membership levels, at $150 to $400 monthly, if they pick the maximum pounds they’re allotted on each visit. Memberships are available now. Picnics and fun, shareable pictures aside, that’s on the dear side for, say, potatoes. But price-conscious pickers, Adjani notes, will get a real deal if they stick to the high-value items and load up to their heart’s content on cane berries, fresh flowers and herbs. Go wild.

2836 Dry Creek Rd., Healdsburg. Tours and picnicking open to the public by appointment, Friday–Sunday 10am–4pm. $25. 707.800.9806. nocisonoma.com.

Spice Trade

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It’s nice to have your go-to blend of herbs and salt that’s good for potatoes and eggs in the morning, stir-fry in the evening and maybe even Bloody Marys some other morning. I thought I’d found that spice in Bohemian Forest, a mustard-based, lavender-laced number from Santa Rosa’s Savory Spice Shop. Also, it’s got “Bohemian” in the name.

Then a contender showed up. Tucked in with a wine sample from Quivira Vineyards, a shaker of house-made spice mix called “Tuscan herb salt.” Two shakers, actually. Twice as nice.

This sort of swag is nothing new. But the moment I opened this Tuscan shaker, it sang to me. It sang with potatoes and eggs, roasted vegetables, tofu and sausage alike. It’s made with estate-grown rosemary, garlic and sage from Quivira’s formerly certified biodynamic garden—which they claim is still more than half as nice, as they employ the very same biodynamic methods—and sea salt, which hails from the sea. I can’t say whether it’s the Steiner-esque dynamic energies of the herbs, or just that I don’t get around much in the spice aisle, but I like this. It’s recently returned to the tasting room for $10, along with a Provençal blend, lemon herb salt and fig preserves.

It’s meant to pair with Zin, like Quivira’s 2016 Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel ($25). Think blackberry liqueur here, instead of jam, and cassis, giving the impression of a mannerly, mid-priced Bordeaux. With floral hints of sage and mustard blossom, a dry, yet plush palate, and easy screw-top cap, what’s not to like about this Zin?

Next, a jar each of Zinfandel mustard ($9) and Zinfandel barbecue sauce ($12) from Seghesio Family Vineyards showed up. Careful readers will recall how much we love mustard here at the Bohemian, but this is no sour, yellow stuff, nor simply stoneground and loaded with seeds. This deep brown mustard has a hint of oaky cask, without being too “winey.” I find it lends earthy depth to a Reuben sandwich.

Stir-frying with the sauce was a miss, but baking with tofu worked out. Redolent of smoky adobo sauce, it’s aimed at a pairing with a wine like Seghesio’s 2016 Old Vine Sonoma County Zinfandel ($40). Supple and knit together with warm, fuzzy sweater tannins, this classic Seghesio Zin’s got milk chocolate highlights and strawberry, cranberry, and spicy, seeded raspberry jam flavors.

Check out how Seghesio’s executive chef Peter Janiak cooks it up at the winery’s Annual Zin + BBQ Festival, Saturday, July 20, 4–7pm.

Seghesio Family Vineyards, 700 Grove Street, Healdsburg. 707.433.3579.
Quivira Vineyards, 4900 West Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg. 707.431.8333

Vote Now for the 2019 NorBays Music Awards

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bohemian_062719
Each year since 2005, the Bohemian has hosted the NorBays Music Awards to recognize the best bands of the North Bay as voted by you our readers. Now, you can vote online for the 2019 NorBays by clicking here.
Categories include Blues/R&B, Country/Americana, DJ, Folk/Acoustic, Hip-Hop, Electronic, Indie, Punk, Jazz, Rock, and Reggae.
With this write-in ballot, you will help choose the winner. Enter your favorite local band, venues, promoters, festivals and more from Sonoma, Napa or Marin Counties in each category. Winners will be announced in the Aug. 7 issue.
Voting ends Friday, July 19 at 12pm. Please enter one name per category. Multiple “stuffed” votes from the same person will be recognized and thrown out.
 

Playing Tribute

Since the earliest days of the Elvis Presley impersonator, tribute bands have found a place in the music scene as a way for audiences to hear their favorite songs from their favorite artists in more accessible settings. Tribute bands also allow casual music fans to attend a concert and know exactly what they’re getting for their ticket.

“Sometimes we have conversations about tribute bands being sort of the dirty little secret of the music industry,” says Aaron Kayce, manager and talent booker for Sweetwater Music Hall in Mill Valley. “I don’t think it’s really that dirty, and I don’t think it’s that much of a secret.”

While tribute bands have long been seen as secondary in the industry, they’ve exploded in popularity in the last 20 years, as classic rock icons retire or pass on. Now, for many fans, venues and musicians, tribute bands are becoming the bread and butter of the live music business.

“Everybody likes to sing along, everybody likes to know the songs, and that’s what you get,” says Kayce. “The bands that do it well are really good, take it really seriously and sell a lot of tickets.”

In the Bay Area, tribute bands run the gamut from recreating songs to recreating entire concert sets from decades past, and classic rock tribute acts such as Petty Theft, Zeparella and the Sun Kings are some of the busiest bands working today.

Petty Theft

Since 2003, Marin- and San Francisco-based tribute band Petty Theft has toured the Western United States, performing the songs of Tom Petty & the Heartbreakers in the spirit of the band’s live shows. For the past two years, Petty Theft was voted ‘Best Cover Band’ in the Pacific Sun’s annual readers poll.

For Marin native and Petty Theft guitarist and vocalist Monroe Grisman, Petty Theft is more than a band; it’s a community.

“For the longest time I was only in original music bands and even at a certain point kind of frowned on cover bands, because I was so into my own thing,” Grisman says.

“But there came a point in my life where I didn’t have as much time (for original music), and I got invited to join this band, and I thought out of all the bands I could think of playing their songbook, Tom Petty struck a chord with me. It’s great rock and roll music, great songs, something I could have fun with.”

With live sets that regularly include more than two dozen songs each show, Petty Theft pulls from over a hundred Petty songs and performs the late artist’s biggest hits as well as the deeper album cuts that true fans will recognize.

Within the tribute band genre, there are different varieties of tributes. There are bands whose members dress up in costumes and try to look like the band, and there are bands whose members take performance to a high level, like that of a Broadway show.

“I just saw a Genesis tribute band with set designs and period-specific gear,” Grisman says. “And there’s a certain value for that, like for me that was the closest thing I’ll ever get to seeing Peter Gabriel-era Genesis in 1973.”

Forgoing the costumes themselves, Petty Theft focuses on performing the music and honoring the sound, while also adding their own touches and taking liberties that keep the concerts fresh for fans.

“I think it’s why we’ve built up a pretty amazing following now; people like that we’re not trying to be Tom Petty & the Heartbreakers, rather we always pay tribute and we always give it up to the real deal,” Grisman says.

And the real deal has given it up back to them, with Heartbreakers drummer Steve Ferrone meeting the band through a mutual friend and sitting in with Petty Theft three times over the years. “It’s been an amazing honor,” says Grisman.

While Grisman says the band never imagined the project would gather such a following, they’re happy to share Petty’s music as long as people want to hear it.

“It’s the funny thing with the tribute band, I’ve always considered what we do more of a celebration rather than a tribute,” Grisman says. “Although with Tom’s passing in the last two years, the tribute thing takes on a new meaning. It was definitely a heavy period after Tom’s passing—it was really emotional for fans and for us, and it still is. But, what we’ve found is that the heaviness has lightened and people are embracing that the music lives on, and to celebrate it is a great thing.”

Zepparella

Veteran hard-rock drummer Clementine first fell in love with Led Zeppelin as a youngster listening to KMET radio in Southern California, and when she began to hit the skins herself, she realized just how much influence Zeppelin drummer John Bonham had on her musical aspirations.

In 2004, looking to better-learn those Zeppelin songs and the drum parts she loved, Clementine hooked up with guitarist Gretchen Menn—who admired Jimmy Page as much as she admired Bonham—and the two formed the Bay Area’s all-female tribute band Zepparella.

“When we started it, we looked at it being a practice project,” Clementine says. “Shortly after, we started talking about, ‘Why not do it onstage?'”

For Clementine it was, and still is, all about the music.

“I wanted to get better as a drummer, and why not go to the source of how I got into playing drums,” Clementine says. “I feel like I came into this through the back way. It wasn’t that I set out to start a tribute band, it was that I wanted to learn this stuff and see what happens.”

Even 15 years into the band, Clementine notes she’s still learning from Bonham. “We just keep going forward because it’s so musically exciting,” she says. “Led Zeppelin is maybe the only band that I could continue to play for 15 years, and a lot of that is because we take parts of the songs and develop them through improvisation onstage, and Led Zeppelin gives us that freedom because they were so improvisational in the way they presented the music. It enables us to create new parts of songs, new ways to approach songs. It’s always changing.”

In addition to the musical explorations afforded to her in Zepparella, Clementine appreciates how the band acts as a steady source of income and helps her develop an audience for her other singer-songwriter projects.

“The creative process as far as being able to write something from scratch with other musicians is a beautiful thing, and I have that in the other projects I do,” she says. “I value it all. I feel like one feeds the other; what I learn from Zeppelin is what I take to my original writing, and parts of my original writing I put into the drumming with Zepparella.”

With the recent return of lead singer Anna Kristina, a vocal powerhouse who first showed her talents as a member of the Santa Rosa High School Chamber Singers back in the day, Zeparella is rocking stage on both the West and East coasts this summer. In addition to their live shows, Zepparella is offering fans a way to learn the songs themselves, with the newly launched Zepparella Learning Channel on YouTube, a series of videos in which the members teach audiences their parts to a Led Zeppelin tune. So far, the series has featured “When the Levee Breaks” and “Immigrant Song.”

“It’s been a remarkable learning experience for us to teach these songs,” Clementine says. “For 15 years we’ve been learning all these little things that you learn playing this music onstage, and to be able to share that freely with people, it feels like we’re able to give a little back from what we’ve gained playing the music.”

Obviously, Led Zeppelin will never play together in concert again. And classic rock acts like the Rolling Stones or AC/DC that do still tour play in stadiums that don’t offer the intimacy clubs provide. Clementine sees Zepparella as a way for audiences to experience the classic rock of yesterday in an intimate setting. “To be able to get swallowed up by these songs in a smaller venue is where the power is,” she says.

Zepparella continues to thrive because of the power of those Led Zeppelin songs, and Clementine says the tribute band has lasted so long because of the musicians she’s been able to share that power with. “I value the people I’ve played with in the past and now,” she says. “It’s a great experience. I wouldn’t trade it.”

The Sun Kings

The Sun Kings have performed the music of The Beatles for over 18 years now. Forgoing mop top wigs and Sgt. Pepper’s clothes, the group instead pays tribute by delivering note-for-note recreations of the Fab Four’s entire catalogue.

“I might have to write to Guinness about this,” says guitarist and John Lennon-tribute-vocalist Drew Harrison. “By the end of this year, I will have played every Beatles song ever released, live. The Beatles never did that.”

The 58-year-old Harrison says he should’ve been a brain surgeon, but got bit by rock and roll, “much to me parents’ chagrin.” As a musician, he’s spent more than three decades performing original music and covers, and like most other baby boomers, is a lifelong Beatles fan. He’s even more of a John Lennon fan, though he stumbled into The Sun Kings accidentally.

“I didn’t set out to do Beatles’ tribute with the Sun Kings, but you know how life goes, you just end up in these places,” Harrison says.

In the 1990s, after the Berlin Wall came down, Harrison found himself living in Eastern Europe and he joined up with a band in the Czech Republic.

“I was the token English singer, and they said, ‘Play Beatles,’ because they couldn’t have the Beatles or the Stones or anybody out there during the communist era,” he says. “I played this show for about 6,000 people in this town, Karlovy Vary, and the people went nuts for ‘Ticket to Ride,’ literally nuts, they screamed bloody murder. It was crazy.”

When he got back to the States six months later, Harrison recruited a band and joined the ranks of Beatles tribute bands with the Sun Kings.

“We’re not costumes and we’re not caricatures,” Harrison says. “Not to take anything away from bands that do that, but we’ve found our niche in that we play the concert the Beatles never gave.”

The Sun Kings play both hits and deep album cuts from across the Beatles’ entire career, using Rickenbacker guitars, Ringo Starr-appropriate drum kits and classic amps.

“There’s a pleasant obsession about trying to get it right,” Harrison says. “We’re all fans of the music, so when we get kind of close, we all get this feeling and people love it. That’s the nostalgia that everybody in the tribute world is pining for; a piece of our past.”

That nostalgia is driving the tribute market to new heights in the 21st century, as a generation looks to recapture the classic rock of their youth.

“It’s gotten much bigger in the 20 years since we started,” Harrison says. “And there’s tributes for everything. There’s a certain amount of competition for a Beatles band, for example. It becomes like any business—our product is this music and we are fulfilling the need.”

Part of that business means staying aware of rights issues, though most tribute bands avoid major publishing problems by not selling albums and ensuring that the songwriters are given credit where it’s due.

“I know the new media licensing is such that ASCAP found us and other tribute bands and said, ‘You’re going to have to pay licensing just for having snippets of the songs on your website,'” says Harrison. “And that’s fair, that’s fair.”

While the Sun Kings take the business of tribute bands seriously, they don’t forget to enjoy the music.

“I’m the fan I have to impress,” Harrison says. “I love the music, and getting it right is like building a kit-car—it’s made me a better musician, certainly a better singer.”

In addition to their own instrumentation, the five-man outfit also brings in horns and strings for full-album shows. The band also invites schools to bring in music students to play with them from time to time.

“It’s a lot of fun, it introduces kids to the music,” Harrison says. “This music has a long shelf life, and as long as we’re around we’re going to have a gig.”

Screen Life

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Once an undercover police officer, now the subject of an Oscar-winning movie, retired detective and author Ron Stallworth—the central figure in Spike Lee’s 2018 “BlacKkKlansman”—admits he’s still adjusting to the limelight.

“I’m trying hard to adapt to this ‘celebrity’ gig,” laughs Stallworth, speaking on the phone from Fort Worth, Texas, where he was participating in a Fourth of July book distribution event.

Stallworth appears in Sonoma on Thursday, July 11, at a Sonoma International Film Festival event. In addition to a meet-and-greet with Stallworth and his wife Patsy—to whom he dedicated his book and who shares all public appearances with him—Stallworth will appear onstage at the Sebastiani Theatre, following a screening of “BlacKkKlansman.”

Based on his bestselling 2014 memoir, the movie stars John David Washington and Adam Driver. It relates the story of Stallworth’s time with the Colorado Springs Police Department and his successful infiltration of the area’s Ku Klux Klan. The movie received six Oscar nominations, including Best Film. It won for Best Adapted Screenplay.

Asked why he wrote the book after years of relative silence, Stallworth says there was never any real secrecy—he’s shared the story with friends and family many times.

“I freely showed people my KKK membership card, which I still carry,” he admits. “I just never told the press. But when I’d tell people, they all said basically the same thing: ‘There ought to be a book.'”

The film adaptation, unsurprisingly, takes some liberties with the truth. Still, Lee’s script sticks fairly closely to the real story, in which Stallworth, in the ’70s, engaged in several phone conversations with local klansmen, then coordinated with white undercover detectives who made face-to-face contact with the Klan while pretending to be Stallworth.

One surprising outcome of the book and movie’s release is it corrected the widely held assumption the KKK was essentially extinct.

“I have to tell people all the time,” Stallworth says, “white supremacists have always been around, and they will always be around. And now, Donald Trump has given them the microphone, and white supremacy is taking full advantage of that. But I’m here to tell you, there are no good Nazis, I don’t care how you slice it. There’s no such thing as a good Nazi—I don’t care what the president says.”

Taste Riot

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I‌ fully expect new folks to show up in North Bay wine country next week and announce their plan to make wine as good, or better, than the best wines of France.

The plan is nothing new. James Concannon did just that in 1883 when he planted vine cuttings from Château Margaux—famed for its wines then as now—in his Livermore Valley vineyard. Margaux, located in the Bordeaux region on the southwestern coast of France, happens to be big on Cabernet Sauvignon—now the most widely planted grape in California by far—and some 80 percent of its acreage is now planted with clones of Cabernet that originated in the Concannon Vineyard, according to the winery. With its toasty Cabernet s’more aroma of graham cracker and jelly, Concannon’s classic 2016 CV Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon ($20) has plenty of varietal character for the price, with room left over in the middle palate for sensibly paired cuisine.

Despite our reputation as revolutionaries, Americans are restorationists par excellence when it comes to the king of grapes—you see the Bastille Day tie-in? Take Jordan Vineyard & Winery, which recently dumped its American oak barrels in favor of French oak barrels for its latest vintage, 2015 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($57). Just as food-friendly as the last vintage, this mélange of dried mixed berries, walnut, and raspberry herbal tea isn’t necessarily my cup of tea for a second glass, but as a Bordeaux-styled accompaniment to food, it’s hard to beat.

Choose Frank Family Vineyards’ 2016 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($58) for a broadly warm, strawberry and plum jam-flavored sipper. Sweet and soft, it also shows enough black olive and pencil box Cabernet character to stay in its price lane.

Now, name the reigning monarch of California white wine. Sauvignon Blanc? Good guess, because that’s the blanc heavy of southwestern France. Yet, despite the popularity of “Sauternes” among California wine drinkers of the 1880s, their successors of the 1980s weren’t as savvy. That’s just as well, because Gamble Family Vineyards’ 2018 Sauvignon Blanc Yountville ($28) offers plenty of pretty citrus blossom, honey, and tropical fruit cocktail aromas for the price. With Asian pear flavor and a green, fruit cocktail grape note, the finish has a balancing touch of bitter melon rind.

I also like the simpler Pixy Stix, grapefruit zest and smoky flint-scented Benziger North Coast Sauvignon Blanc ($15). When it’s time to let them have Chardonnay, try the Benziger 2017 Sonoma County Chardonnay ($16) or Imagery 2018 California Chardonnay ($20), whose on-type, if muted, apple pie and caramel flavors should cause no revolt among loyalists to the queen of California white wine.

The Dispossessed

San Francisco is a series of steep hills that people cling to until the gravity gets them. The Last Black Man in San Francisco is a remarkable film, in the way it evokes that downward pull.

It’s all about a dispossessed young man and the best friend who lives with him and studies him. Jimmy Fails (played by an actor of the same name) was homeless for half his life. He’s obsessed with a Victorian house on the edge of the Fillmore; he surreptitiously tends to it, lovingly painting the windowsills even as the current tenants pelt him with fruit from Whole Foods.

He’s crashing in Hunters Point, sharing a small house on a hill underneath the Sunnydale projects with his close friend Mont (Jonathan Majors) and Mont’s blind grandad (Danny Glover). Jimmy feels this wooden castle of a Victorian is a family treasure. After a dispute leaves it vacant, the young man reclaims the place, if only as a squatter.

Gentrification is coming even for this remote stretch of San Francisco. But director Joe Talbot is too thoughtful to satirize the new arrivals. Talbot keeps his eye on what’s left of life there.

The film is a beautifully made study of urban dispossession. Adam Newport’s photography is up with the best visions of the city ever screened: a hill flattened by a long lens to look as steep as a Diebenkorn cityscape, the zeroing in on a window in a Tenderloin SRO where Jimmy’s scolding father lives; at last, the wrenching finale, a scene in an open boat on oily purple water. Jimmy’s conversation with a couple of newbie white girls on the Muni is a line that will be quoted as long as there’s a San Francisco: What he says is as wise as the saying by whomever it was—probably not Mark Twain—about the coldest winter they ever spent.

‘The Last Black Man in San Francisco’ is playing at Rialto Cinemas in Sebastopol and Summerfield Cinemas in Santa Rosa.

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San Francisco is a series of steep hills that people cling to until the gravity gets them. The Last Black Man in San Francisco is a remarkable film, in the way it evokes that downward pull. It's all about a dispossessed young man and the best friend who lives with him and studies him. Jimmy Fails (played by an actor...
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