Capo Taste-o

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It’s hard to imagine this corner of the world without Healdsburg.

But it was new to Mary Roy when, seeking a breather from an intense medical conference in San Francisco, she asked a hotel concierge where she could go to get off the beaten path, away from tourist-trammeled wine country. The answer was Healdsburg.

Some years later, just after Mary and her husband, Bob Covert, fired their realtor after a pricey prospect fell through, their new realtor said, “Would you try looking in Healdsburg?”

Hard as it is to imagine that a 50-acre parcel with a neglected old-vine Zinfandel vineyard, some run-down barns, and lots of potential, could still be found in 2014 in these parts, they found their dream property on Capo Creek.

The little seasonal stream didn’t actually have a name, Mary explains while I sample a floral—but fleshy—2018 Grenache Blanc ($28), so they named it for the guitarist’s clamp, capo tasto. They’re big music fans, Mary explains, as the croon of the late Eva Cassidy wafts from the kitchen alongside savory scents. It’s not a random play from streaming music: they named the vineyard below the rustically landscaped tasting area Eva’s after one of Mary’s beloved recording artists, and named the new planting of Rhône varieties on the hill above the handsome barn-style winery Eric’s, for his. While the vines grow, Capo Creek’s 2016 Grenache Noir ($52) is sourced from Carneros, but this cool and silky, mint-accented red is a standout rendition, sure to ease any worried mind.

Bob and Mary’s dream-winery retirement project hit a few roadblocks along the way. It seems that wresting a building permit or two from the County is not the stuff of dreams. So, while Bob stays on in Chicago, where he’s a noted neonatologist, Mary runs the winery with the help of her sister, with whom she formerly founded a radiology service.

“I don’t want to just be serving wine to people,” Mary says of her winery’s approach to hospitality. There is no tasting bar. She does like to cook, however, and serves up a tasty little pierogi to pair with the plush, estate-reserve Zinfandel ($52), which she farms with organic inputs, though not certified as such. “I’m a doctor, so I don’t do Roundup,” Mary says.

It might be a good idea to upgrade from the one-hour tasting to the two-hour food pairing experience ahead of time. “People come here, and they never want to leave.”

Capo Creek, 7171 W Dry Creek Rd., Healdsburg. Wed–Sun 10am–5pm. Tastings, pairings, and tours by appointment, $35–$135. 707.608.8448.

Urchin Matters

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Kelp Killers Unbridled urchins are a menace to aquatic plants and abalone.

Some breathe through scuba gear, while others hold their breath—and each carries a large rock. Until several years ago, these recreational divers preferred to spend a weekend visit to the North Coast diving for abalone—the giant, prized sea snails. This last month, though, they spent hours smashing purple sea urchins.

“We’ve been hearing other divers already saying they’re seeing fewer urchins,” says Josh Russo, the president of the Watermen’s Alliance, a diving advocacy group, and the chief organizer of the urchin smashing outings.

Russo’s group represents just one faction of a broader community of divers, commercial fishermen, biologists and state officials hoping to cull a plague of millions of purple urchins laying waste to the North Coast’s once lush and abundant kelp forests, bringing down an entire ecosystem with the iconic macroalga.

Another, very separate and more complex urchin-culling project is still in its planning stages at the Bodega Marine Laboratory, in Bodega Bay. Here, Laura Rogers-Bennett, an environmental scientist with the California Department of Fish and Wildlife, helps feed and fatten hundreds of purple urchins, captured off nearby rocky reefs, in tanks of seawater. Urchins are valued for their richly flavored golden gonads, or uni. But because these urchins ate their own food supply down to the bare rock, they now persist in a semi-starved state; their gonads have shriveled, turning gray and worthless.

But Rogers-Bennett says it takes less than three months to restore them to health, and culinary value, on a diet of dried seaweed pellets. The project is part of an experimental collaboration with a Norwegian company called Urchinomics, which is pursuing a unique business model of making commercial industries out of overpopulated urchins. Scaling up the experiment into a viable business—which could occur over the next few years—will mean building onshore facilities with large tanks and recirculating seawater systems.

It could also represent a symbolic step forward for sustainable seafood.

“It wouldn’t just be sustainable—it would be restorative, where the more you take, the more you help restore the kelp forests of California,” Rogers-Bennet says.

And California is hardly alone as a victim of escalating urchin numbers. In many regions around the world, changing marine conditions—including ocean warming—encourage the spread of urchins, which overwhelm underwater ecosystems when their numbers exceed the environment’s carrying capacity. This happened in Tasmania, Norway and British Columbia, among other regions, where local urchin species proliferated and destroyed once-magnificent kelp beds and seaweed meadows. In their place are what scientists call urchin barrens—rocky underwater seascapes where little but urchins dwell. Urchinomics is conducting trials in all these regions.

In Northern California, bull kelp grew so thick as recently as five years ago that it posed a real hazard and a logistical consideration for recreational abalone divers. Often, the kelp was so dense that swimming over the surface became a grueling task—like walking through a thicket of blackberries. The nuisance became a danger under the surface, where the numerous kelp stalks running to the seafloor like vines in a jungle created a drowning hazard.

But the kelp today is all but gone, as are the prized sea snails that rely on it. In place of prior ecological diversity are chiefly one thing—purple urchins, tens of millions of them in the shallow waters of the North Coast. The animals proliferated starting about five years ago after a mysterious disease wiped out their main predator, the sunflower sea star. Almost simultaneously, a spell of warm ocean water caused a massive die-off of kelp. Urchins eat kelp, and prevent recovery of the vegetation.

Abalone also eat kelp, and with their food source depleted they have starved and died by the millions. Urchins, though, can live for years without eating solid food. For now, the semi-starved urchins rule the seafloor, eating any sprouts of kelp that appear and thereby keeping the ecosystem locked in its gray and dreary, barren state.

Red sea urchins have also been impacted by the purple urchin scourge. Larger than the purple urchins, reds were until recently the valuable core of a small but thriving commercial market. Now, like the purples, the reds have little to eat, and their prized gonads have withered into unappetizing strips of gray flesh. The North Coast’s commercial urchin diving economy has collapsed.

When—and if—all this will change is not clear. Urchin barrens have lasted for decades in other regions, making the future of California’s coastal marine environment look bleak.

“These urchin barrens are very different from the barrens we’ve seen before in Southern California, where they were patchy and very small and the kelp system would often bounce back the next year,” Rogers-Bennett says. “These barrens are much more extensive and long-lasting.”

In Van Damme cove, a few miles south of Fort Bragg, Russo anchored four buoys to mark a large quadrant inside of which he and other volunteer divers smash urchins by the thousands. Russo’s plan, independent of more formally guided initiatives, is to create a clearing in the urchin barrens where kelp can potentially take root and grow.

“It can’t recover if it can’t even start growing,” he says.

The daily recreational bag limit on purple urchins is 35. However, an addendum made this year to state law bumped up the bag limit in Sonoma, Mendocino and Humboldt counties to 40 gallons per day. Russo estimates this equals 600 to 800 pounds of crushed urchins, with three or four urchins to the pound.

State law prohibits wanton waste of fish and game, but it allows harvested fish or invertebrates to be used for bait.

“We’re baiting with these urchins,” Russo says. “We’re not just smashing them. That would be illegal.” He notes rockfish, surfperch and lingcod swarm around divers as they work.

“The law doesn’t say you have to catch what you bait, so we’re just baiting,” he says.

Smashing urchins underwater has helped restore urchinated kelp forests before. It proved successful in Southern California, for one, where concentrated efforts to kill the animals allowed denuded giant kelp groves to grow back.

But the scale of the problem on the North Coast far surpasses anything seen at any other time in California’s history, and the extensive barrens might prove more than hand-held hammers can undo.

Smashing urchins is also controversial because the process can allegedly release eggs and sperm into the water, where the gametes might meet and produce larvae, and eventually more urchins. Russo says so few urchins in the overpopulated areas currently contain viable gonads that the concern is not legitimate.

Rogers-Bennett doesn’t feel that citizen groups without scientific permits should be tackling the restoration effort, partly because of the risk of promoting reproduction.

“Most urchins in a barren are sterile, but you do find some that are reproductive,” she says. “We want to be sure nobody is smashing urchins during the reproductive cycle.” Purple urchins usually spawn naturally in winter months.

However, she believes in the basic concept of creating bull kelp seed banks.

“We need to create small pockets where we can defend the bull kelp,” she says. “This will keep the spore bank alive. If the bull kelp gets totally wiped out, it would make recovery almost impossible.”

Another program to thin out the urchins involved sending the harvested animals to a commercial composting site in Ukiah. The Watermen’s Alliance, in fact,sponsored this project. Russo says the organization donated $80,000 last year to support the work of nine commercial urchin boats at several locations, mostly near Fort Bragg.

But efforts like this one require volunteers.

What’s different about Urchinomics’ proposal is that it creates an economic incentive to harvest the urchins. Proceeds from commercial sales will be used to pay divers, driving a profitable new industry.

Urchinomics’ director of global brand marketing Denise MacDonald explains that the plan is to create a California market for purple urchins. She describes a dining arrangement where freshly cracked urchins, their golden uni exposed, are served on the half shell to restaurant diners, much the way an oyster bar works. On a per-urchin basis, proceeds could be substantial—a few dollars per animal—and financially, the model—which is being similarly tested in Japan, Norway and coastal sites in Canada where urchins have taken over the seafloor—looks good.

Whether it will operate at a speed sufficient to reduce urchin densities remains the question.

Uni is in high demand, MacDonald says, and supplies are down, partly as a result of spreading urchin barrens.

But taking on an urchin barren is no easy task, as overpopulated urchins are notoriously difficult to effectively cull.

Mark Carr, a professor of marine ecology at UC Santa Cruz, believes the pace of catching, ranching, selling and serving the urchins may not be fast enough to make a significant dent in the urchin population.

“The level of production and consumption is likely to have a pretty minimal effect on the vast current population of urchins on the coast,” he says of the Urchinomics’ business plan. “But having said that, any time you create an industry that might be sustainable out of an outbreak like this, you’re creating jobs and income providing an economic alternative in areas where fisheries have been impacted.”

He points to the spread of invasive lionfish in the Caribbean and the Gulf of Mexico as an example; the introduced fish became pests of locust-like magnitude, and while efforts to fish them into submission didn’t work, they created a sustainable—and, one could say, restorative—fishery.

“That just demonstrates adaptive capacity of human communities to respond to these disturbances,” Carr says.

In Tasmania, urchin barrens replaced kelp forests over the past several decades. As in California, increasing water temperatures led to a kelp die-off, while the urchins prevented recovery.

Scientist Craig Johnson, a biologist at the University of Tasmania, closely studied the local urchin barrens and led experiments in which he introduced lobsters into overpopulated urchin barrens. Lobsters are a natural predator of urchins but have been fished to low levels in much of their range in Australian waters. Working in marine reserves where the lobsters could not be fished, Johnson and colleagues studied the predators’ effects on the urchins. They ate large numbers, he says, but in extensive barrens, the predation was never enough to allow algae to recover.

As Johnson explained to this reporter in 2017, “You can pour in as many large lobsters as you like, and they will eat hundreds of thousands of urchins, but they cannot reduce the urchins enough for any kelp to reappear. Even if you turned all those urchin barrens into marine protected areas tomorrow, you could wait 200 years and you still wouldn’t get a kelp forest back.”

In ecologists’ jargon, an urchin barren is the alternative stable state to the lush kelp forest. True to the name, a stable state is very stable. That is, unless a tremendous environmental upheaval—like a fast change in water temperature, the outbreak of disease or a predator introduced to the system—dislodges the urchins’ grip on the ecosystem, the urchin plague may never go into remission. As Johnson explains, it takes a great number of urchins to turn a kelp forest into a barren. Thereafter, however, it only requires a relatively small number of urchins to maintain that barren. Put another way, urchins must be almost entirely eradicated from a barren in order for kelp to reclaim the environment.

“For all intents and purposes, once you flip to the urchin barren state, you have virtually no chance of recovery,” Johnson says.

In Alaska, existing urchin barrens first formed several decades ago, and in Hokkaido, Japan, barrens have lasted for more than 80 years.

Some scientists discuss the potential for reintroducing the predatory sunflower sea star back into the urchin barrens of California. This would mean catching some in the wild and breeding them in captivity. Since survivors of the sea star die-off of 2013 likely bear genetic resistance to the disease that wiped them out, a newly established population might be able to persist and significantly cull the purple urchins.

But in local water, there may not be any sunflower sea star survivors.

“Unfortunately, we haven’t seen one since 2014,” says research diver Tristin McHugh, the Northern California regional manager for the seafloor monitoring organization Reef Check.

The organization, which uses the help of volunteer scuba divers who count and record marine life, has surveyed California’s coastal ecosystems since 2006. Their data shows the various population trajectories of different species, with bull kelp presence dropping precipitously several years ago as purple urchin counts spiked.

Now, says McHugh, patterns in fish abundance may be starting to emerge, with a recent dip in counted fish after a brief spike from 2013 to 2016. She speculates the abrupt loss of kelp made fish more visible to divers, creating an illusion of greater numbers.

But the recent drop in observed fish suggests declining populations of rockfish, lingcod and other local species—the probable next victims of an ongoing trophic cascade.

Russo says his smashing program is already making a visible difference in the numbers of urchins at Van Damme.

“It’s not just us who see it—other divers have been mentioning it,” he says.

Russo is optimistic about Urchinomics’ strategy, though he notes harvesting for uni creates demand for larger urchins only, leaving sub-adults and juveniles in place.

“But if they go in and take out the big ones, and they let us smash the rest, I think we have a good chance,” he says.

Trailer Park Blues

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Nearly two years after the North Bay fires burned more than half the homes in Santa Rosa’s Journey’s End mobile home park, the Santa Rosa City Council is considering legislation to speed the closure process for the park, opening the possibility for a new housing project on the property.

Although Journey’s End is located just across Highway 101 from Coffey Park (the single-family home neighborhood that the fires also seriously damaged), the two neighborhoods are at very different points in their recovery. Coffey Park is well on the way to being rebuilt, but Journey’s End still looks much as it did after the fires. The delayed rebuilding process has, in part, to do with the park’s zoning and state rules governing mobile homes, long a form of affordable housing in a state with sky-high housing prices.

Unlike single and multi-family housing developments, the California Department of Housing and Community Development regulates mobile home parks and the city requires park owners to file a special report in order to close the park

However, the city of Santa Rosa needs to update its rules for park closures with new regulations for parks damaged in natural disasters, says David Guhin, Santa Rosa’s planning and economic development director. Once Journey’s End is formally closed, the property will be one step closer to a new beginning.

Affordable housing developer Burbank Housing floated the idea of building housing on the land and giving preference to the former Journey’s End residents.

In February, Kaiser Permanente chipped in $1.6 million to cover planning and design costs for the future development.

Representatives from Burbank told the North Bay Business Journal the same month that it expected the project to take five years and $85 million to complete. The article did not specify how many units the project might include; however, it does state that Burbank “has control” over the property.

Since then, Burbank has remained quiet about its plans. The developer has not applied for planning permits at Journey’s End—at this point that would be a premature step since the land is still zoned for a mobile home park, not conventional housing—and did not respond to the Bohemian’s request for comment in time for the paper’s deadline this week.

On Sept. 30, the Press Democrat reported that Burbank would “take the lead” on the closure of Journey’s End. In order to build a multi-family housing development, Burbank will have to apply to change the zoning of the property. The property is currently zoned as a mobile park. The property owner did not respond to a request for comment.

The city is taking the project one step at a time, with no specific plans about the future use of the land, according to Guhin. That said, the destruction of more than one-hundred homes at Journey’s End was a big loss for the city’s affordable housing stock. Guhin calls mobile homes a “critical affordable housing source” for the city.

“Replacing those units with mobile homes or another form of affordable housing will be paramount,” Guhin says.

Emergency Ordinance

The ordinance under consideration at the council’s Oct. 1 meeting would alter a 1996 city code requiring mobile home parks to file a report outlining the reasons for and possible effects of their closing.

The current code does not describe the process of closing a park due to damage caused by a disaster, such as a catastrophic fire. In this case, the 2017 fires.

The proposed amendment is part of Santa Rosa’s new Resilient City Combining District, a special zoning district created after the fires to help spur rebuilding in fire-affected areas.

Although three Santa Rosa mobile home parks were partially damaged in the fires, the ordinance only applies to parks that lost more than 50 percent destroyed. Currently, Journey’s End—which lost 116 of 160 homes during the fires—would be the only park affected by the policy change.

The proposed ordinance makes several other changes to the standard closure report procedure aimed at speeding up the Journey’s End closure process. Under the proposed ordinance, a public outreach period will be reduced from 30 to 15 days; the applicant alone will decide on a consultant to prepare a closure report, instead of coming to an agreement with a representative of park residents; and the final decision will go directly to the City Council rather than the Planning Commission.

The closure process for Journey’s End is further complicated because no one currently resides on the property because the California Department of Housing and Community Development, the agency that regulates mobile home parks, deemed the heavily damaged park unlivable, even for those residents whose homes did not burn down.

Mobile and Affordable

Although there are just over one hundred licensed mobile home parks in Sonoma County, according to data from the Sonoma County Community Development Commission, this form of housing rarely make it into modern debates over the North Bay’s affordable housing crisis.

Unlike affordable housing developments, which are generally financed by vouchers and incentives from state and federal agencies, mobile homes are relatively cheap to buy or rent and, under state law, often protected by a form of rent control.

In Santa Rosa, rent increases on mobile homes are tied to the cost of living increase, capped at 6 percent annually.

However, in an age where glossy lifestyle magazines for millennials feature tiny homes and manicured micro-houses, mobile homes suffer from a lack of branding. Unlike their tiny-home cousins, which have not found favor among local leaders in Santa Rosa as a long-term solution to the regional housing crisis, mobile homes are often associated with retirees on a low income, not a daring lifestyle choice.

Still, for a generation that may be moving away from homeownership, mobile homes have long been a practical housing solution for hundreds of people in Sonoma County.

Although Point Reyes Station catches more than a few sun rays on a recent late-summer day, the northern tip of the Seashore, which is administered by the National Park Service, gets the Pacific Ocean’s full fog-machine treatment.

At historic Pierce Point Ranch, a windbreak of gnarled trees just beyond the parking lot is hardly visible. Yet the bugling of unseen male tule elk is as clear as a bell. The term, “bugling,” with its upbeat, brass instrument connotations, doesn’t do justice to this haunting screech that’s about as wild as it gets, just an hour north of the Golden Gate.

The rut, when male elk (called bulls) compete for influence with groups of females (cows), takes place from August to October, and it’s one of the Seashore’s many natural resource features—along with whale and elephant seal viewing—that draw up to 2.4 million visitors each year.

There are plenty of other bulls and cows to see here, too.

More than 5,700 dairy cows and cattle graze on Seashore land leased to dairy and beef operations. But considering their smaller number, about 750 animals in free-ranging herds and fenced in at Pierce Point, the tule elk surely rank highly among visitors.

“It’s not a popularity contest,” says Melanie Gunn, outreach coordinator for the Seashore, about the latest invitation for public comments on the Seashore’s plans to manage ranches and elk in the future. The comment period for the General Management Plan Amendment Draft Environmental Impact Statement closed on Sept. 23.

“One really important thing for people to realize,” Gunn clarifies, “…it’s not a vote. And we try to make that clear to people. What we’re looking for is substantive information to inform the process.”

Previously, the Park sought to implement an updated Ranch Management Plan (RMP), consulting the public in a series of workshops and comment periods. But a coalition of environmental groups, frustrated that the process did not include an Environmental Impact Statement (EIS), sued and halted it.

“Every park does it that way when they make a big management decision,” says Jeff Miller, a conservation advocate for the Center for Biological Diversity. “They do that through an environmental review.”

The park was trying to skip that step, according to Miller, who traces his activism in the park to family hiking trips when the Seashore opened in the 1960s. “When the park service tried to float the ranch plan, killing the elk was the last straw.”

The Amendment Draft now includes a more specific plan, “Alternative B,” to lethally remove elk from a contentious herd that shares pasture with cows, while extending ranch leases to 20-year terms. This is the NPS’s “preferred alternative.”

The statement does mention five more alternatives, from “no action” to “cessation of ranching operations.”

“It wasn’t about kicking ranchers out, which is what ranchers fall back on when anyone asks questions,” says Susan Ives, whose organization, Restore Point Reyes Seashore, encourages public commentary on the plan.

“It’s how to restore the native prairie—let’s try to bring back some of these native plants that are on the brink,” says Ives, who does not view the preferred alternative as an acceptable compromise. “There really weren’t a lot of alternatives that we could support.”

The Seashore will not release the public comments for several months, according to Gunn. Already, elk advocates are criticizing the process.

“I have helped to collect hundreds of comments from other citizens who also want the park to choose wildlife protection and restoration and to phase out ranching,” forELK founder Diana Oppenheim writes in a letter to park Superintendent Cicely Muldoon.

Melanie Gunn and the NPS refuse to accept those comments, stating a policy of not accepting bulk comments. “We can’t accept comments that have been submitted on behalf of others,” Gunn states. “So, we let that individual know, as soon as we got them, that she could take them back and ask individuals to send them.”

A preview of comments provided to the Pacific Sun highlight the disconnect between the Park Service mission, the environmental findings of the EIS and the preferred alternative. Among writers offering substantive perspectives, Ken Brower, who watched as a “fly on the wall” as his father, David Brower, worked with ranchers and politicians to establish the park, writes, “It is a historical falsehood—despite the widespread myth otherwise—that the park’s founders ever intended that ranching be permanent.”

Judd A. Howell, former ecologist and research scientist at Golden Gate National Recreation Area, questions why the Seashore’s 5,700 cattle units cannot tolerate 124 elk among them. “The notion that elk are a ‘problem’ is obviously misguided, since elk coexist with cattle on BLM and Forest Service grazing lands throughout the western U.S.,” he says.

It remains to be seen how many of the 7,000-plus comments received weigh in for or against the preferred alternative. Some may be classified as opinion only, and will not be incorporated at all, says Gunn. But they won’t be lost in the fog. “We provide a response to those comments.”

—James Knight

Under the Lights

As the actor and singer Judy Garland, Renee Zellwegger is held in tight closeup: a bundle of nerves dosing herself with pills, mouth crooked and trembling, wincing from cigarette smoke and bad memories. Half the time in Judy, she knocks you out, half the time you want to knock her out. Starved down to a shadow, Zellwegger’s bag-of-bones Judy is a wraith in her final year working.

It’s 1968 and the 47-year-old is a huge star in London. Her insomnia and vast need for love tortures her. Her personal life is in smithereens; back in L.A., her ex-husband Sid Luft (perennial rotter Rufus Sewell) is trying to get custody of her two young children. Meanwhile, she’s courted by Mickey, a persistent younger man (Finn Wittrock) of such untrustworthiness that his very presence should set off every burglar alarm for blocks.

Zellwegger embodies—impersonates may be the correct term—Garland and her vast yearning for applause. But without the the amphetamine-fed megalomania you hear in the tapes Garland made to soothe herself. There she sounds more like Martha in Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf. Unlike Judy Davis’ superior 2001 version of Garland, this victim is missing the other half of what made the woman behind Dorothy Gale such a sacred monster, a chronic no-shower and a meltdowner.

Director Rupert Goold delves for backstory in tinted postcard images of MGM, where Garland underwent a species of child abuse—overwork and over-medication.

On stage, after the film’s slow build, the performance of “By Myself” is just about perfect; well orchestrated and reflecting the dazzle Garland emitted. Also affecting is a very touching sequence about a late night with a pair of gay stage door johnnies (Andy Nyman and Daniel Cerquiera), who Judy flusters by revealing that their idol is just a lonely person who’d like to go get some dinner in a city that shuts down at 11pm. (Judy’s production design makes a point: Swinging London took place in a drab, decaying town that badly needed a coat of paint.)

There’s a word for a lot of Judy, and that word is schmaltz; I preferred the previous arrangement where she’d sing “Over the Rainbow” and we’d cry, rather than the role reversal here.

‘Judy’ is playing in limited release.

Sad But True

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Last week a man in a brand-new Metallica baseball hat stood outside a West Marin grocery and asked about the breed of a peculiar and hairless dog wandering nearby. “I’ll answer your question,” I responded. “But first—what’s with the Metallica hat? Are you with the band or something?”

The man, who appeared to be in his late 50s, pointed toward the store and said, “We just played with them.”

It took a moment for the casual comment to register. What? You just played with Metallica? “Yes,” he responded, affably. His partner was inside shopping. “My husband,” he said, pointing again at the store, “he’s the conductor of the San Francisco Symphony.”

Much laughter ensued and the conductor emerged for the store with his parcel. Michael Tilson Thomas lives in these parts, and the symphony performed two nights of Metallica music, “S&M2,” in early September. It was the second time the Bay Area thrash metal titans have worked with a symphony. A movie of the shows is due out Oct. 9; it will play locally at the Rialto Cinemas in Sebastopol.

The men departed. One of the high-holy hippies of West Marin was on the scene and noted, “You know, they say that conductors live longer than anyone—they have the longest life span.”

It makes sense, the high-holy hippie continued, and we checked off the various reasons why. Consider the aerobic aspect of a conductor fully in his element, for one thing. The musicians focus completely on the conductor as he gyrates and coaxes and persuades them to heights of symphonic glory. That’s ego-gratifying stuff right there, and quite uplifting from a spiritual perspective. Plus, the conductor is the star of the show and he or she’s got their back turned to the audience the whole time. That’s pretty punk rock.

The high-holy hippie declared it his favorite interaction of the day, maybe even of the month, and everyone went about their business. Days later, news emerged that Metallica frontman James Hetfield had entered a rehab clinic and the band was canceling tour dates to deal with the shared trauma. Reports highlighted that Hetfield had been sober for 15 years and helped other musicians with their addictions during that time.

Then news broke that longtime Grateful Dead lyricist and San Rafael resident Robert Hunter had passed on. A real double-shot of sad news. I always keep the “Uncle John’s Band” lyrics at bay for moments like these—when “life looks like easy street, there is danger at the door.” There’s a beautiful Jerry Garcia Symphony version of the song from Red Rocks that’s seen heavy rotation in my house this week.

Eat Impeach

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The pundits are pumped and declaring that it’s time to grab the popcorn, folks, because this is going to be a wild ride.

Under the circumstances, I’m reaching for the pierogi.

There’s nothing funny about impeachment—nothing at all, in fact—but a person’s got to eat. And nothing says “self care above all else” than impeachment-related foods that relate in some way to the clear and present situation the country finds itself in. Nothing says, “food therapy” than healthy local foods and drinks.

So, yes pierogi not popcorn. The potato dumplings are one of the national dishes of Ukraine and while they’re available around the North Bay, Not to be getting all presidential, I want you to do me a favor, though: Make your own.

Rodney Strong Vineyard in Healdsburg offers a really tasty-looking recipe on their website—a foraged mushroom and steak pierogi, stop the presses!—that they recommend you pair with one of their Cabernets. Go for it. More traditional versions include pierogi stuffed with cabbage or sauerkraut The Rodney Strong recipe is simple enough and looks like a fun way to spend a weekend afternoon when the only high crime or misdemeanor you’ll have to worry about is an abuse of flour. There’s nothing worse than a gummy pierogi, so go easy on that stuff.

The North Bay has a rich and long history of Russian meddling in our coastline, but it’s all been in the service of tourism and generally on the up-and-up. Russian and Ukrainian culture is one of the sublime through-lines that makes life up here interesting, and it’s not just because they named a river after mother Russia.

The cultures are celebrated as they should be, and despite whatever the guy on the other end of the phone is saying or sort-of threatening. The North Bay doesn’t have to worry about a lack of any reciprocal relationship with Ukraine, especially when it comes to food.

For instance, an early-September festival of Ukrainian foods and music took place in the City of Sonoma in early September (and how we pine for those recent and comparatively innocent days of pre-impeachment yore!). The festival was, according to the Sonoma Press Index report, a serious and seriously fun event with authentic eats from Ukraine—wine herring, smoked mackerel, eggplant relish, pear soda—and all sorts of traditional music from the former Soviet republic.

The Sonoma Ukraine event had a deadly serious mission along with the celebration, reported the Sonona paper. Organizer Tarney Baldinger, besides making the eggplant relish, was on hand to raise money for a Ukrainian warzone hospital and to help families of Ukrainian war veterans. Baldringer was also collecting clothing, medical supplies, “fabric for camouflage nets and pads for tank seats, underwear for soldiers and men’s socks” at the event.

Hey, it wasn’t quite $250 million in American military aid to help Ukraine stave off further Russian aggression on its eastern border, but then again, nobody was extorted to dig dirt on Sonoma’s city council in exchange for the assistance to Ukrainian war victims.

The North Bay has already dealing with the long hand of Washington when it comes to the Ukraine, its culture and people. Mexican immigrants aren’t the only immigrants on Stephen Miller’s list of unfriendlies, apparently: Last year, the longstanding Worlds Friends Dinner in Sebastopol got caught up in international immigration affairs after Ukrainian students’ visas were denied and they couldn’t come to town for for the annual event.

Maybe there was a perfect conversation with a Ukrainian leader over the past year, or maybe not, but the World Friends Day is back at full multicultural strength on Nov. 4. It’s being billed as “Where Sushi meets Borsch” and celebrates Sebastopol’s sister-cityhood with Takeo, Japan and Chyhyryn, Ukraine.

Country Classic

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Documentarian Ken Burns delivers an extraordinary series, Country Music, that holds up a mirror to reflect the people and country we were and are. Diligent research, photographic and film archives, interviews and performances make it clear—this genre of music represents many cultures within our nation.

The story encompasses 70 years, from the 1920s to the mid-1990s. During that time, musical instruments originating in Europe and Africa found adopted homes in the social and cultural environments of the rural Southern United States and Appalachia, before spreading westward through Oklahoma, Texas, the Mexican border and eventually to California. Tunes became infused with the playing of fiddles, guitars and other stringed instruments, as well as with gospel, to lift the spirits and bodies of disenfranchised and hard-working people worn down by their day’s labor. The stories told through song reveal the trademarks of human experience, some of it very difficult.

As the country went through its own growing pains during the 20th century, so did country music—reinventing itself often. Many artists rebelled and sought experimentation and inclusion, both musically and culturally, allowing the tent to become large enough for all. The music not only survived, but thrived and was revitalized.

But country music was not without its casualties. Many performers suffered extreme poverty growing up. Haunted by trauma, alcohol and pills, some could not escape their wounds and unrelenting demons. To their credit, these courageous and sensitive men and women were able to capture—through their plaintive lyrics, expressive voices, harmonies and melodies—the sadness and joy of their imperfect lives, live, on the phonograph record and over the airwaves. Their gift—a collective reflection and remembrance for their listeners and a reminder of our own common humanity.

E.G.Singer lives in Santa Rosa. We welcome your contribution. To have your topical essay of 350 words considered for publication, write
op*****@******an.com.

Kiev-ity

What is the difference between the president of the Ukraine and the president of the United States?

The president of the Ukraine is a comedian.

The president of the United States is a joke.

San Rafael

Bolt Vote

Since your editorial page is now a vehicle for advertising (for Budweiser beer of all things!), I’d like to contribute an advertisement for a product I love: the Chevy Bolt.

I don’t know why everyone isn’t driving this car. It’s all-electric and it gets 250 miles to a charge (there’s a 300 mile club, but we haven’t tried that yet). OK, if you’re a long-distance commuter without a place to plug it in at the end of your commute, perhaps this isn’t the car for you. But for everyone else this car rocks!

Every time I drive my safety-green Bolt I feel smug and self righteous about not contributing to greenhouse gases and global warming. OK, I know that our individual choices will not by themselves change the world, but if everyone drove electric cars we might make a dent.

You never have to breathe exhaust fumes or go to a gas station again! And it’s fun to drive, with lots of pep. We leased our Bolt from the local Chevy dealer with a rebate from Sonoma Clean Power (that rebate is over but there may be others).

I don’t often watch TV, but when I do the car ads are still promoting big, gas-guzzling trucks to macho men. WTF! Guys, you can still feel powerful driving the Bolt even if your penis is small. Powerful, smug and self righteous.

Via Bohemian.com

Moon Shot

Great—Gov. Moonbeam II can panic about a “youth vaping epidemic,” but he can’t take decisive action to ban from California an industry that’s dooming human lives and biotic diversity and water quality: the hydraulic fracturing criminal syndicate (“The Nugget,” Sept. 25). Gavin, you’re a dimwit, and worse, a collaborator. Karma’s gonna catch up with you.

Via bohemian.com

Raving Review

It doesn’t make sense to compare two different productions of two different plays as if they were written and performed with the same artistic intent (“Self Aware,” Sept. 15).

Does room for meaningful reflection mean that the action of the play is interrupted now and then in order for the audience to reflect on the ideas presented? Does the play have a focus? Is it about all the tender and tense moments that comprise a relationship? Or about how different women view their bodies in relation to art and sexuality? How being on the spectrum can lead to funny moments? What’s the main focus? What’s the action of the play centered on?

This is little more than a plot summary and a few unsupported compliments to some of the actors, which is apparently what passes for theatre criticism in the Bohemian.

Via bohemian.com

Write to us at le*****@******an.com.

Real Treat

0

It’s a virtual Merman-palooza in the North Bay as two theatre companies present “musical fables” with Ethel Merman connections. Santa Rosa’s 6th Street Playhouse runs Gypsy through Oct. 20 while Sonoma Arts Live runs Merman’s Apprentice, an original musical with a fictional Merman character, through Oct. 13.

Merman’s Apprentice is a throw-back to the classic Broadway musical—a simple plot, larger-than-life characters, a little schmaltz and lots of songs to tell its story.

Plucky 12-year-old Muriel Plakenstein (plucky 17-year-old Emma Sutherland) runs away to Broadway and runs right into her idol Ethel Merman (Dani Innocenti Beem). Merman, who’s about to begin a short run in Hello, Dolly!, is impressed with Muriel’s knowledge of her career and takes her under her wing. The next thing you know Plakenstein is set to star in an all-juvenile version of Dolly! for producer David Merrick (Patrick Barr). Or is she?

Playwright/lyricist Stephen Cole, a friend of Merman’s late in her life, joined up with composer David Evans to come up with this theatrical valentine to her and to Broadway. As the first full production of the show, co-directors Jaime Love and Larry Williams had no playbook to follow. Adding to their challenge, Cole and Evans were present for the final week of rehearsal, so last-minute changes continued to be made.

The opening night performance went very well, but a few more changes should be considered. The first act overran a natural concluding moment and continued for two additional songs. The second act ran under 30 minutes. The acts should be better balanced.

There’s nary a note of any Merman standard to be heard in the show, but Cole and Evans’ score evokes the feel and sound of classic Broadway with lyrics that are often clever—one jarring anachronism aside. (I highly doubt a song ostensibly written in the 1940’s and sung in 1970 would reference FBI Director J. Edgar Hoover in a dress.)

Sutherland is a dynamo as the title character. She more than holds her own with the estimable Beem, who catches the essence of Merman while wisely avoiding any attempt at impersonation. There’s a nice ensemble at work, with both Julia Holsworth and Sean O’Brien a lot of fun as Ethel’s Mom and Pop.

A theatre-lover’s treat, the exceedingly pleasant Merman’s Apprentice is what All About Eve would have been in the hands of Walt Disney.

Rating (out of 5): ★★★★

‘Merman’s Apprentice’ runs through Oct. 13 at Andrews Hall in the Sonoma Community Center, 276 E. Napa St., Sonoma. Thur–Sat, 7:30pm; Sun, 2pm. $25–$42. 866.710.8942. sonomaartslive.org.

Road Kings

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Nice view, but what do the wines taste like?

Cyclists who participate in Levi Leipheimer’s 11th annual King Ridge GranFondo this Saturday, October 5, will roll out on a flat road that’s flanked by vineyards, and a few wineries, in the Russian River Valley wine appellation. Nothing unusual about that, wine country-wise. As they gain elevation, they’ll enter the Sonoma Coast appellation. At the peak of the namesake climb, they’ll be smack in the midst of the Fort Ross-Seaview appellation. In these more far-flung regions, there are few wineries but many isolated pockets of vineyard, best seen and felt on a bike ride—a terroir experience that’s rewarding even without opening a bottle. But, we will open that bottle.

The Piccolo: Dutton Estate 2017 Dutton Palms Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($49) Anyone who can ride 30 miles out and back from Santa Rosa is no slouch, and this Chardonnay is no slouch, either. Picked from the vineyard that surrounds the family’s estate home on a hill in a picturesque little valley west of Graton, this dry-finishing wine is made with 40 percent new French oak, yet it’s just vanilla frosting on the apple cake, in flavor, not the butterball that some associate with California Chardonnay.

The Medio plus Willow Creek: Bohème 2015 Stuller Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($55) I cheated on the biking bit: I drove my car to this little Occidental tasting room to get an updated tasting note, but found that it’s much the same as the 2008 that I tasted way back when: “From a vineyard nestled in a bowl of trees, peeks in and out of vanilla, potpourri and savory marjoram aromas, but the plum fruit flavor is zaftig and fresh.” Ditto for the 2015, and the 2013, which is also still on offer, but even more silky and sumptuous. These wines are some of Sonoma Coast’s hidden gems.

The Gran: Red Car 2013 Fort Ross-Seaview Syrah ($55) Where King Ridge meets Hauser Bridge before a notoriously steep descent, Red Car’s estate vineyard hugs the road. This neighborhood is lousy with big names in Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, but the under-appreciated varietal here is the Syrah. Ever been skeptical about a tasting note about “grilled blueberries”? This is it, for reals. Smoky, Malbec-like, road-tar aromas also come to mind, but when this wine hits the palate, it’s all about tangy, fresh plum skin sensations. If you prefer the Pinot from this Sonoma Coast locale, the tantalizingly aromatic, olallieberry and cherry scented, dry-finishing Red Car 2015 Fort Ross-Seaview Pinot Noir ($75) is much more than the region’s medio, indeed.

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Country Classic

Documentarian Ken Burns delivers an extraordinary series, Country Music, that holds up a mirror to reflect the people and country we were and are. Diligent research, photographic and film archives, interviews and performances make it clear—this genre of music represents many cultures within our nation. The story encompasses 70 years, from the 1920s to the mid-1990s. During that time, musical...

Kiev-ity

What is the difference between the president of the Ukraine and the president of the United States? The president of the Ukraine is a comedian. The president of the United States is a joke. —Craig J. Corsini San Rafael Bolt Vote Since your editorial page is now a vehicle for advertising (for Budweiser beer of all things!), I'd like to contribute an advertisement for a...

Real Treat

It's a virtual Merman-palooza in the North Bay as two theatre companies present "musical fables" with Ethel Merman connections. Santa Rosa's 6th Street Playhouse runs Gypsy through Oct. 20 while Sonoma Arts Live runs Merman's Apprentice, an original musical with a fictional Merman character, through Oct. 13. Merman's Apprentice is a throw-back to the classic Broadway musical—a simple plot, larger-than-life...

Road Kings

Nice view, but what do the wines taste like? Cyclists who participate in Levi Leipheimer's 11th annual King Ridge GranFondo this Saturday, October 5, will roll out on a flat road that's flanked by vineyards, and a few wineries, in the Russian River Valley wine appellation. Nothing unusual about that, wine country-wise. As they gain elevation, they'll enter the Sonoma...
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