Bluegrass Pride Plans Month-Long Virtual Festival in June

Bay Area-based nonprofit organization Bluegrass Pride lifts up LGBTQ+ musicians and creators within the bluegrass music community; largely through concerts, jam sessions, showcases, festivals and parades.

In 2020, after the pandemic forced Bluegrass Pride to cancel in-person Pride programming, the organization made the pivot online, hosting a two-day livestream festival that raised more than $23,000 for the LGBTQ+ and allied artists on the lineup.

This year, the Bluegrass Pride Board of Directors has expanded that two-day livestream into a month-long virtual festival and fundraising event, Porch Pride, which will take place online throughout June.

Over the course of Pride month, Porch Pride will feature performances by bands and artists like Lavender Country, Rainbow Girls, Gangstagrass, Poโ€™ Ramblinโ€™ Boys, Jake Blount, Sunny War and others. The festivities will also include a virtual Bluegrass Pride brunch and open house, a beginner-friendly jam, and more.

The virtual Porch Pride event kicks off on Sunday, June 6, with Lavender Country Live, hosted by acclaimed musician, scholar, and Bluegrass Pride board member Jake Blount.

The following weekend, Bluegrass Pride hosts its popular and informal brunch gathering and open house on Saturday, June 12. The next day, virtual participants can join a friendly jam session featuring protest songs and movement music led by queer Nashville-based singer-songwriter Luisa Lopez on June 13. 

The final two weekends of Porch Pride 2021 will feature two virtual festivals. On Saturday, June 19, Bluegrass Pride partners with Brandi Pace and Decolonizing the Music Room for JuneteenthA Rainbow Revival. The three-hour series of performances highlights the trailblazing contributions of Black queer folks and trans folks to the Pride movement as well as to bluegrass and roots music. 

Juneteenth: A Rainbow Revival is a proud recipient of the IBMA Foundationโ€™s inaugural Arnold Schultz Fund grants. The International Bluegrass Music Association created the IBMA Foundation in 2007, and the foundation recently established the Arnold Shultz Fund to support activities increasing participation of people of color in bluegrass music. Arnold Shultz (1886โ€“1931) was an African American musician from western Kentucky who had a profound influence on Bill Monroe and the development of bluegrass.

Juneโ€™s final weekend will see a return of Porch Pride proper, this time celebrating Bluegrass Prideโ€™s fifth anniversary and once again featuring two days of live music, performances, songs, and more, featuring headlining sets from Gangstagrass on June 26 and Rainbow Girls on June 27.

All of the eventโ€™s virtual programs are free to view and attend, and will be available to view online after airing. The nonprofit encourages fans, followers and listeners to donate to support the musicians and the ongoing work of Bluegrass Pride.

Sonoma-Marin Fair Adopts Hybrid Model of Online and Distanced Events

Beginning this week, the Sonoma-Marin Fairgrounds in Petaluma kicks off two months of fair activities, both online and in-person, that recognizes and adapts to the changing Covid restrictions and recommendations.

โ€œItโ€™s time to have some fun, but in a responsible way that supports the health and safety of our friends and neighbors in Marin and Sonoma Counties,โ€ Fairgrounds CEO Allison Keaney says in a statement.

The schedule of festivities kicks off on Friday, May 7, with the first of four Drive Thru Fair Food weekends. Guests will be able to pick up classic favorites like funnel cakes, corn dogs, cotton candy, and giant curly fries.

By poplar demand, an enticing selection of smokehouse sandwiches, ribs, and giant turkey legs will also be on the menu. Drive Thru Fair Food will be open May 7-9, May 14-16, June 18-20, and June 25-27, from noon to 8pm.

โ€œJune 25th through 27th also happens to be our traditional Fair weekend, and weโ€™ll be celebrating with added entertainment on the concourse for our drive-thru patrons,โ€ Keaney states.

Fair rides are also coming back to the fairgrounds when Butler Amusements presents a pop-up carnival May 13โ€“16 in the main parking lot. Once again, the fairgrounds states that Covid protocols will be in place to ensure a safe reopening. The carnival opens at 5pm on May 13 and 14 and at noon on May 15 and 16.

The Sonoma-Marin Fair will also present a streamlined exhibits program this summer to showcase the talents and accomplishments of Marin and Sonoma County residents, especially the youth.

Entries opened online on May 1 and exhibits are being be dropped off and judged in person at the fairgrounds. Youth will present their small animal and livestock projects in person as well. The grounds will not be widely open to the public, but the staff is working on plans to showcase exhibitorsโ€™ work, including a plan to allow exhibitors time to visit the hall with family and friends.

โ€œWe have a community of creative and talented people. Many have spent time at home in the last year trying new things or improving their craft. That needs to be celebrated,โ€ Keaney states.

Virtual walk-throughs of the exhibit hall will be shared online, and the fair is also hosting an online Vendor Expo where the public can peruse goods and services and even interact live with vendors at scheduled times during the summer.

In addition, the Fairโ€™s โ€œNorth of the Gateโ€ wine competition has moved to August and the Fair will be holding a ticketed tasting event in September.

โ€œOur Fair theme this year is โ€˜Moovinโ€™ Onโ€™ and while our world is still transitioning to the other side of the pandemic, it is great to be headed in the right direction and seeing the community come back together,โ€ Keaney states. โ€œWe are excited to be a part of that.โ€

For updates and information, visit the Sonoma-Marin Fairgrounds Facebook page.

Tamรกl Hรบye: Coast Miwoks Fight for Recognition of Point Reyes’ Indigenous History

On April 22, the California Coastal Commission held a virtual hearing to discuss the impact of dairy and cattle ranching at Point Reyes National Seashore. Superintendent Craig Kenkel began his presentation with the words, โ€œPoint Reyes is the ancestral home of the Coast Miwok.โ€

Kenkel spent the rest of his talk advocating for a Park Service proposal to increase the terms of ranching leases from five to 20 years. This, despite the findings of an Environmental Impact Statement released by the National Park Service last year which revealed multiple harms caused by 150 years of bovine-centric agriculture at the seashore. The ongoing damage includes water pollution by cow urine and feces, atmospheric pollution by carbon and methane gas emissions, and the extinction of native plant and animal species. [See โ€œApocalypse Cow,โ€ Dec. 9, 2020]

Kenkel said that extending the leases is necessary to โ€œpreserve multi-generational ranchesโ€ that are protected by the National Register of Historic Places. He did not mention that in 2015 the Park Service terminated a proposal to protect the archeological remains of Coast Miwok habitation using the National Register.

Rep. Jared Huffman came online and told the Commission, โ€œRanching is part of the Seashoreโ€™s DNA.โ€ Five commissioners disclosed that Huffman telephoned them before the meeting, asking for a vote in favor of the proposal. But the congressman did not reach out to Theresa Harlan, whose familyโ€™s actual DNA is embedded throughout the Seashore.

In her testimony to the Commission, Harlan asked, โ€œWhy is a 100-year-plus dairy-ranching history more valuable than a Coast Miwok history of 10,000 years? You have a decision to either protect Coast Miwok archeological sites, or to add to the erasure of the Coast Miwok archeological record.โ€ The Commission voted 5-4 to approve the Park plan to protect and preserve commercial agriculture at the endangered national seashore.

Tomales Bay Indiansโ€”Tamรกls

This reporter first met up with Harlan and her husband, Tiger, at Point Reyes. On a windy March afternoon, the two Indians and I hiked a dirt road as it curved into a tree-shaded cove on the west side of Tomales Bay. Revealed were wooden houses built by a Coast Miwok family during the late 19th century. A stream trickled onto the beach. Hanging from a tree, a frayed rope that once anchored a row boat danced in the wind. The place was Harlanโ€™s ancestral home.

Harlan, 61, told me, โ€œThere is a myth that the Indigenous people simply walked away, and the land was empty, and the settlers came, and took title to it, and developed it, and there wasnโ€™t any contest.โ€ She channels a force greater than herself. โ€œMy people are still here. All public land is native land.โ€ As the Indigenous saying goes, the people are the land.

In the language of the Coast Miwok people, Tomales Point is Calupetamรกl or Hummingbird Coast, and Point Reyes peninsula is Tamรกl-Hรบye, Coast Point. Ten thousand years ago, trekkers from Beringia settled in the fog-watered meadows of Tamรกl Hรบye, founding  long-lasting, intelligently-managed societies that left an imprint on the land.

The modern descendants of these first peoples call themselves Tomales Bay Indians, Tamรกls. Tamรกls have survived Ice Ages, a 500-year-long drought, and rising seas, but it was industrial-strength colonization by Europeans at the turn of the 19th century that proved to be near-fatal. Carrying guns, crucifixes and diseases, the potola-inigo, white people, despoiled Yรณwa, the land. They installed Western-style property โ€œrightsโ€ that liquidated aboriginal presence. In an unrestrained search for profit, they felled oceans of redwood forests, slaughtered bears, wolves and tule elk, and began dairying.

Displacement and starvation propelled Coast Miwoks into virus-infected, Catholic-run plantations to work as slaves and concubines. After the San Francisco and San Rafael  agricultural mission lands were secularized and sold in 1834, Tamรกls made their way back home. But Tamรกl Hรบye was changed. โ€œPoint Reyes became Rancho lands, with huge herds of cattle initiating the destruction of the Native resource base,โ€ the National Park Service wrote in a 2008 report to the National Register of Historic Places.

Making matters worse, after California was awarded statehood in 1850, the U.S. Army and gold- and cattle-crazed vigilantes murdered and terrorized natives by the thousands. Indians were legally classified as subhuman. โ€œNative Americans were denied citizenship, voting rights, and were not allowed to testify in court against white defendants โ€ฆ any [orphaned] Indian up to 18 years old could be assigned to a white family for up to 14 years of labor,โ€ wrote anthropologist Lynn Compas in a 1998 report to the Park Service assessing hundreds of Indigenous archeology sites throughout Point Reyes.

The coves of Tomales Bay offered shelter from the holocaust of Manifest Destiny and institutionalized racism. Some returnee Tamรกls, including Harlanโ€™s great-great grandmother, Euphrasia, married non-Indian laborers. And for a century, cove-dwellers raised children, fished, hunted and tended Tamรกl Hรบye as best they could under colonial conditions. They worked as cooks and fieldhands for European immigrant ranchers who barb-wired the commons, dammed the streams and polluted beaches as they reshaped Tamรกl Hรบye to suit burgeoning beef and dairy industries. Colonial governments outlawed the controlled burning of forests and fields as practiced by the Indigenous for the benefit of all beings.

And yet, despite the destruction of Tamรกl Hรบye, and despite the price of being known as Indian in a white-dominated world, many 19th- and 20th-century Tamรกls self-identified as Indigenous. They did what they had to do to survive, but they also passed the ancestral ways and traditions on to their children through storytelling.

More than a family saga

Harlanโ€™s mother, Elizabeth, was raised at the cove which is mapped as โ€œLairdโ€™s Landing,โ€ after a butter-and-cheese dealer who ran K Ranch up the hill. Elizabethโ€™s mother, Bertha Felix Campigli, was born at the cove in 1882 to Joseph and Paulina Felix, both of Tamรกl ancestry.

Josephโ€™s parents were Domingo Felix, a Filipino, and Euphrasia Felix, a Coast Miwok who had left Mission Dolores when San Francisco was nothing but โ€œforest and a log house,โ€ she reportedly told a friend. Euphrasia, Domingo and their children had moved to Tomales Bay around 1860 after a Marin County Tax Assessor named James Black bought the Miwok rancheria in Nicasio where they had resided, and expelled the people.

At the cove, generations of Felixes built residences, sheds, gardens and chicken coops and quietly lived off the land. Calvin Coolidge was elected president, and Bertha married her fifth husband, Arnold Campigli, a hunter, farmhand and jack-of-all-trades. Campigliโ€™s Swiss-Italian parents tenanted a dairy ranch near Coast Camp. They disowned him for marrying an Indian, and he did not look back. In 1925, Bertha gave birth to Elizabeth, the youngest of her eight children. With teenagers spilling out of the one-room house, Campigli built a second one-room dwelling. They had no electricity, gas heat or telephone. โ€œWe were poor, but not hungry,โ€ Elizabeth said in an oral interview with a Park Service historian.

Tamรกls fought in wars, married, moved to cities and returned to Tomales Bay. After World War II, Elizabeth married John Harlan and they made a home in Napa, where Theresa and her sister, Beverly, were raised. Harlan, of the Kewa Pueblo tribe based in New Mexico, was adopted by Elizabeth and John as an infant, and raised as a Tamรกl.

Theresa Harlanโ€™s grandmother, Bertha Felix Campigli, was born at Lairdโ€™s Landing in 1882. Photo courtesy of Theresa Harlan.

After Bertha died in 1949, S.A. Turney, the owner of K Ranch, evicted the Felix family from the cove and put their homestead up for sale. Court records document how the Felix family fought back, providing testimony from community elders that their family had resided at the cove before K Ranch was deeded, which meant they could own it under common law. But because Marin County had never billed the family for property taxes, an appellate court ruled in 1954 that they had to leave. Campigli moved in with daughter Elizabeth in Napa.

Harlan grew up hearing hilarious stories about the hard-easy life. There was Babe, a cow who cow-paddled around Tomales Bay scouting for bulls when in heat. And then there was the afternoon when Elizabeth had finally had it with racial taunting, and beat up a pack of white boys who bullied her. She cherished the memory because the schoolโ€™s only teacher had defended her against outraged parents, saying that the rancher-kids deserved it.

In the early 1960s, an itinerant artist named Clayton Lewis moved his family into the Felixโ€™s empty houses, with the K Ranch-ownerโ€™s blessing. When the Park Service bought the cove in the early 1970s, it allowed Lewis to stay. Treating the land as his private property, he remodeled the houses to suit his โ€œcounterculturalโ€ tastes. He built a foundry where he fashioned jewelry and sculpture. He threw wild parties. He dug privy and trash pits. Once, he uncovered and displayed a human skull, until giving it to the University of California. โ€œI want the remains returned to my family,โ€ Harlan said.

After Lewis died in 1995, the Park Service allowed the buildings to decay, to become snarled with vines and cracked by tree limbs. As Harlan, Tiger and I peered into the broken houses, we saw tags and cartoons defiling walls. There was a pile of trash and construction rubble on the lawn, left there by the Park Service in 2017 after it demolished the foundry. For Harlan and her family, the trash, graffiti, weeds and jungle of vines desecrate a place inhabited for thousands of years, a place made sacred because people are the land.

On April 2, Kenkel met privately at the cove with Harlan and a dozen of her relatives. Family members took turns speaking about why the place is special. Elder Arlene Delahoussaye, of Daly City, shared, โ€œI think of this place as my true home. And I always bring my children and grandchildren here to picnic.โ€ The family is asking that Lairdโ€™s Landing be reinvented as a living cultural center celebrating the Indigenous practices of managing the land for the common good. The superintendent promised to consult with the family on a restoration of the houses, Harlan told me.

Days later, the Park Service hauled away the pile of rotting garbage. The agency assigned a team of youthful carpenters from a national nonprofit to work on restoring the vandal-shattered structures, and there are some signs of progress. 

Harlan has a degree in ethnic studies from Berkeley. She is a professional art curator, and worked as a legislative analyst for the California Department of Public health before retiring last year. Her goal is that all of Point Reyes, the land of the Tamรกl people, be given over to the ministrations of future-conscious caretakers. Lessons for the healing of Earth are encoded in the human-shaped lands of Tamรกl Hรบye, and the ancient guidelines are needed now more than ever. But at the Park Service, politics rules the day.

Playing shell games with historic districts

Since 1976, a series of archeological โ€œreconnaissanceโ€ studies commissioned by the Park Service have determined that a combination of natural erosion processes and cattle ranching and park construction activities are destroying the landโ€™s record of Indigenous history. Sonoma State University anthropologists collaborating with the Park Service to monitor the condition of ancient Tamรกl habitations have repeatedly urged it to protect all of Point Reyes National Seashore as an Indigenous Archeological District on the National Register of Historic Places.

In 2008, using more than a decadeโ€™s worth of Sonoma State research, the Park Service nominated an Indigenous Archeological District to the Register, which is a division of the Park Service. The proposal languished in bureaucratic limbo for seven years with no action. Meanwhile, in 2013, the Register quickly protected the Drakes Bay Historic and Archeological District, which was created to celebrate the 16th century pirate Francis Drake; more on that story below.

Here is the shell game: In 2015, the Park Service withdrew the Indigenous District nomination and replaced it with an application for a Historic Dairy Ranching District to protect 17 spreads. The Register rapidly approved the newly created Dairy Ranching District, even as the Indigenous District proposal was taken off the table.

The anointing of the parkโ€™s dairy and cattle ranches as โ€œhistoricโ€ by the Register serves to prioritize funding the preservation of commercial ranching infrastructure over preserving Indigenous archeology. It creates federal tax credits for ranchers. It is also a key element in the Park Serviceโ€™s public relations campaign supporting the lease extensions. But, as Harlan observed, the politician- and business-powered campaign for โ€œpreserving ranching cultureโ€ is predicated on erasing the cultural and scientific significance of 10,000 years of Tamรกl habitation.

Tsim Schneider is a professor of anthropology at the University of California, Santa Cruz. He is also a member of the Federated Indians of Graton Rancheria, whose homeland includes Tamรกl Hรบye. Schneider researches the ways in which Coast Miwok people survived existential crises through the millennia. Most importantly, he views research that focuses only on the harm done to Indigenous societies as a tacit form of โ€œtaking the accomplishments of the colonial elites for granted.โ€ Coast Miwoks were written out of the anthropology textbooks, he says, with โ€œterminal narratives that reinforce the logic of settler colonialism by eliminating narratives of Indigenous survivanceโ€ and an โ€œoutdated colonial-Indigenous dichotomy that essentializes landscapes along tidy, racialized boundaries.โ€

Tomales Bay was a refuge for โ€œIndians unwilling to be converted [to Catholicism]โ€ where Tamรกls engaged in โ€œcreative cultural resistance, preservation of identity, linking memory and physical surroundings,โ€ Schneider says.

Two related misperceptions about the Coast Miwok have informed scientific research, Schneider says. One is the mistaken idea that the Coast Miwok were extinct by the 1920s. A related error is that science tends to โ€œconflate chronology with identity. It treats ancient people as frozen in time, as fossils trapped in amber.โ€

Obsessing with pinpointing the dates of a pot, bone, bead or house pit breaks the living link between past, present and future. Focusing on dating and classifying objects compartmentalizes the flow of the human story and fails to reveal the continuity of social systems and of human agency from time immemorial to now.

Speaking as a Coast Miwok, Schneider says, โ€œOur knowledge of these places, our memories of these places, have always been secondary to science. There is a saying among Indians that archeologists borrow our watches to tell us the time.โ€

Schneider tells the story of an archeologist digging at Lairdโ€™s Landing in 1934. The scientist โ€œrecorded โ€˜broken mortarsโ€™ and โ€˜a good specimen of a spear headโ€™ in the artifact description, while casually mentioning that an โ€˜Indian woman, [Bertha] Campigli, has lived on this site for many years.โ€™โ€ It did not occur to the man that it was the living womanโ€™s ancestors who fashioned the spearhead and hunted with it, who processed meal with the mortar and who lived for thousands of years in relatively stable societies. โ€œThe presence of Harlanโ€™s grandmother was a living sign that Tamals stayed on ancestral lands because the people are the land,โ€ Schneider says. Tamรกls were not eager to assimilate into an alien, racialized society. They knew their ancestors had created the once-vibrant ecology of Tamรกl Hรบye, and hoped those lessons would not be forever lost. Today, Harlan stands in the place of her grandmother.

After demolishing a foundry in 2017, the National Park Service left piles of trash and construction rubble on the lawn of the Felix homes at Lairdโ€™s Landing. The trash was finally removed in April. Photo by Peter Byrne.

The trail of the dead

The first archeologists to explore Tamรกl Hรบye envisioned the story told by the land through the thick lens of settler colonialism. They assumed nothing of much importance happened to the people whom they named Coast Miwok until 1579, when Drake supposedly โ€œdiscoveredโ€ Punta de los Reyes, Point of the Kings. It turns out that decades of Drake-obsessed archeological research at Point Reyes was based upon a lie.

In 1936, the social club E Clampus Vitus claimed to have found a 16th-century โ€œPlate of Brassโ€ near Drakes Breach. โ€œDespite initial authentication, the plate was ultimately determined to be a hoax, a prank โ€ฆ For at least two decades, however, belief in the plateโ€™s authenticity perpetuated nearly exhaustive excavation at Point Reyes in search of Drakeโ€™s campsite and other evidence of his stay,โ€ the Park Service reported to the Register.

The settler-colonial mindset still prevails at the Park Service. The agency claims that the Drakes Bay Historic and Archeological District is deserving of the Register recognition it rendered in 2013, because Sir Francis Drake โ€œstrengthened England as a maritime power and gave England a stake in western North America,โ€ and the District โ€œincludes 15 California Indian sites that provide material evidence of one of the earliest instances of European contact and interaction with native peoples on the west coast of the United States.โ€

In the 1920s, University of California, Berkeley archeologist Alfred Kroeber declared the Coast Miwok were no more. That erroneous assumption guided his doctoral students, James Beardsley and Robert Heizer, during the 1940s, as they shoveled shell mounds all over Point Reyes looking for artifactual evidence of Drakeโ€™s passage. The scientists unearthed 122 human skeletons and hundreds of charm stones, beads, knives, arrowheads, awls, whistles, mortars and pestles fashioned by ancient human hands. Many of the grave-related artifacts are still stored at the Phoebe Hearst Museum in Berkeley.

For the Berkeley anthropologists, the real treasures were the non-Indian artifacts found mixed with human remainsโ€”shards of blown glass, spent cartridge shells and fragments of blue-and-white Ming china. They theorized that because the Indigenous people were unable to comprehend European technology, they had repurposed shattered china as cutting tools, iron spikes as awls and glass as ornament. The 16th-century inhabitants of Tamรกl Hรบye may very well have been awed, perplexed and even frightened by machine technologies foreign to their world. But it was a culture-laden mistake for scientists to presume that Indigenous people were not capable of taking an active role in the history of the world until they absorbed the miracles of the West.

Only recently has it occurred to anthropologists that the Indigenous were potent scientists, keenly observant of the forces connecting trees, rocks, fire, water, plants, animals, life and death. In the early 1930s, an observant ethnographer named Isabel Kelly recorded Coast Miwok elders speaking of ancient technologies and beliefs. Tom Smith and Maria Copa spoke of where, at Tamรกl Hรบye, โ€œa place of rock about two feet long marks the spot where the dead jump into the ocean. They go down there. They said that was the trail of the dead. Over the land they traveled on a cloud path. They go there to be with Coyote where the sun goes down. They never come backโ€”maybe in night time.โ€

Maybe in night time

Laws and ethical codes guiding 21st-century archeology recognize that the bodily remains and belongings of Indigenous people must remain undisturbed. Government agencies are urged to accept tribal leadership in all matters that are principally Indigenous. In short, Tamรกl Hรบye is not the property of the Park Service, just as it was not the property of European settlers. And yet, the Park Service has long acted as if it is the indisputable lord of hundreds of Indigenous villages, food-processing camps, rock shelters, house pits, hunting blinds and lithic scatters endemic to the 71,000-acre Seashore. It acts as if preserving the archeological story is compatible with dairy and cattle ranching, which is demonstrably not the case.

The aforementioned Environmental Impact Statement strongly prioritizes protection of ranch history over preserving Indigenous archeology. While confirming that cattle have been and continue to disturb โ€œsensitiveโ€ archeology sites, the statement promises, in the future, to โ€œtake measures โ€ฆ to exclude cattle.โ€ However, it will allow โ€œtargetedโ€ grazing at known locations, and unrestrained grazing on the many that are undoubtedly unknown, and therefore, subject to inadvertent destruction.

Kevin Lunnyโ€™s family has run cattle on a ranch overlooking Abbotts Lagoon since World War II. Lunny told the Bohemian/Pacific Sun that obsidian flakes are abundant on lagoon beaches, but his cattle are fenced off. He said it is possible that cattle may be damaging archeological sites on other ranches. โ€œRanchers are willing to work with the Park Service and the Graton tribe to protect Indigenous sites,โ€ Lunny said.

The Federated Indians of the Graton Rancheria represent the Miwok and Pomo peoples of Sonoma and Marin Counties and Point Reyes. According to Chairman Greg Sarris, the tribe is negotiating a confidential agreement with the Park Service to protect archeological sites.

But last year, the Park Service failed to consult with the Graton tribe, as it is required to do by law, when it released the Environmental Impact Statement calling for extending cattle operations in perpetuity.

In December, the tribe informed the Park Service of the oversight. The tribe wrote, โ€œWe are disappointed that the National Park Service did not reach out to us and provide an opportunity for our Tribe to consult with the agency, as is required under Executive Order 13175.โ€ The tribe continued, โ€œWe need to revisit the ranching lease program and look for ways that enable the landscape to heal. This should be done with the Tribe and using our traditional ecological knowledge and understanding of the land.โ€

Theresa Harlanโ€™s family is asking that Lairdโ€™s Landing be reinvented as a living cultural center celebrating the Indigenous practices of managing the land for the common good. Photo by Jocelyn Knight.

Cattle trample Indigenous history

Federal laws require the Park Service to protect Indigenous archeological sites. By the agencyโ€™s self-assessments it is failing to do that at Point Reyes. Documents obtained by the Bohemian/Pacific Sun under the California Public Records Act reveal that many Indigenous archeological sites inside park boundaries have long been violated by ranching and the construction of roads, trails and facilities serving tourists.

In the 1990s, the Park Service began working with anthropologists based at Sonoma State University to engineer a preservation plan for more than 150 Indigenous sites. The resultant field work formed the scientific underpinning of the Park Serviceโ€™s later withdrawn nomination of the Indigenous Archeological District.

In 1998, Sonoma State graduate student Lynn Compas reported that many of the Indigenous sites were damaged by โ€œranching, visitors, and construction. โ€ฆ [C]attle grazing causes damage to archeological sites. โ€ฆ [R]emains may be obliterated or obscured.โ€ She observed that the Park Service could prevent further destruction by โ€œextensive cattle grazingโ€ by curtailing ranching activities. Realistically, though, she mused, โ€œRanching is a source of revenue for [the Park Service] and will continue, therefore impacts to archeological sites from cattle must be evaluated before more archeological data is lost.โ€

Compas reported that while the Park Service substantially funded the preservation of settler-era ranching culture, there was little or no funding for preservation of Indigenous culture. She said that the stories revealed at the Indigenous sites are important because, โ€œOne of the dominant paradigms of the past has been that โ€˜interactions between Native Americans and Europeans were governed and structured by European objectives and that the role of Native peoples was passive and easily explained.โ€™โ€ She observed that a core group of Tamรกls had resisted colonization and survived at Tamรกl Hรบye through the generations, physically, spiritually and culturally.

Uniting the past and present, Compas noted that at Lairdโ€™s Landing โ€œthe buildings and the archeological site are in good condition. โ€ฆ The mixture of artifacts demonstrates that the Coast Miwok strategically retained traditional lifeways while accepting new ones in order to survive.โ€

Compas identified Tamรกl families who in the early 20th century resided in the Tomales Bay coves: Ouse, Alcantra, Campigli, Sandoval, Jewell, Felix, Friase, Elgin, Sanchez, Goosman, Zopie and Weber. She reported archeological evidence that the coves were homesteaded for thousands of years, and that sites with prehistoric human remains were disturbed or vandalized by campers, and that โ€œa request for funding to remove the burials to a safer place was made by PRNS in 1997, however the funding request was denied.โ€

Compas suggested that money for protecting the Indigenous sites would be forthcoming if the sites were placed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Subsequently, Sonoma State graduate student, Barbra Polansky, conducted โ€œthe inventory, research, and analysis necessary to nominate the PRNS Prehistoric Archeological District.โ€ The proposed district encompassed the entire acreage of the park โ€œin the hopes that [the siteโ€™s] significance and tremendous research potential may be recognized.โ€

Polansky defined patterns of how Coast Miwok adapted to climate and social stresses by โ€œexploiting the richest area of resources that require the least amount of energy.โ€

She researched how the Tamรกls used plants, game and shellfish to sustain large populations at Tomales Bay, Drakes Estuary and Abbotts Lagoon. Ducks, sandpipers and mud hens were lured by decoys stuffed with grass, and then trapped with nets. Hunters felled birds on the fly with bolas made of string-wrapped heavy bones. Owls were downed with bow and arrow. โ€œMiwok did not generally eat bears, because a bear was considered to be a person.โ€

Polansky cautioned, โ€œCattle grazing and current and historic ranching activities can mix the soil or midden deposit and obscure features such as house pits.โ€ She noted, โ€œPRNS is one of the finest, most intact examples of California Coast archeology,โ€ and even though the sites are threatened by โ€œcattle grazing, plowing and past archeological excavations. There is still much information to be gained.โ€

Building on Compasโ€™ and Polanskyโ€™s research, a bevy of Sonoma State professors led by Suzanne Stewart contracted with the Park Service during the aughts to craft a formal application for an Indigenous Archeology District. According to Stewart, โ€œBy about 10,000 years ago, Californiaโ€™s Paleo-Coast peoples were traveling in seaworthy boats, using fish hooks and other fishing tackle, hunting marine mammals and sea birds, weaving cordage and basketry from sea grass, and making shell beads for ornamental use and exchange with interior peoples.โ€ She detailed the existence of four large villages and more than 100 sites, one-third with โ€œhuman skeletal remains, some with moderate to abundant grave goods โ€ฆ the sheer size and relative wealth of [village] site constituents suggest a focus of activityโ€”perhaps serving as a ceremonial and political center for the locality.โ€

Stewart called for examining ancient plant and animal remains to learn from responses to extreme climate variations by prehistoric populations. She lamented, however, that at fragile archeological sites, โ€œnon-native, domestic range animals have โ€ฆ exacerbated erosion [of sites] by over-grazing and trampling.โ€

Decades of research shows that the Coast Miwokโ€™s non-patriarchal social system encircled Tomales Bay and spread throughout the Point Reyes peninsula. There were large villages at the mouth of the Bay and at Olompali. Drakes Estuary was basically a larder. The largely peaceful Tamรกl economy was collectivized, with limited, family-oriented property rights to defined food-bearing areas. But, mostly, they strove to co-exist with Yรณwa and all of Coyoteโ€™s creations, adapting to environmental stresses by intelligently managing energy resources in ways we are at risk of forgetting.

Autopsy of the Indigenous District

In California, nominations to the Register must be approved by the state Office of Historic Preservation. On May 12, 2008, the Office acknowledged receipt of the Indigenous Archeological District application and promised to review it. And then, nothing.

Until March 5, 2015, when the Office returned the nomination to the Park Service, โ€œwith brief comments to inform a future resubmittal.โ€ The Park Service did not resubmit it.

In fact, โ€œThe Park Service withdrew the nomination,โ€ Julianne Polanco, State Historic Preservation Officer, told the Bohemian/Pacific Sun. Why?

In Harlanโ€™s opinion, โ€œThe Park Service pulled the Indigenous Archaeological District nomination because the protections of a historic place listing would interfere with rancher interests. The Park would be forced to re-direct resources to tell the story of 10,000 years of Coast Miwok land stewardship, thereby diminishing the 150 year rancher history.โ€

Case in point: the parkโ€™s website falsely asserts, โ€œThe dairy and cattle ranches on Point Reyes peninsula represent the single largest cultural landscape.โ€ In fact, the Indigenous landscape is more than three times the area of the ranching district. Indigenous culture is vastly older and more venerable than the capitalist byproducts of imperial Christianity.

Even as it aborted the Indigenous district in 2015, the Park Service asked the state to sign off on the demolition of all of the buildings at Lairdโ€™s Landing as unsafe. The preservation officer forbade the demolition of the Coast Miwok houses. But instead of moving to preserve Lairdโ€™s Landing as an example of thousands of years of continuous Indigenous presence, the Park Service incorporated the Felix buildings into the historic ranching district nomination, โ€œas a reflection of how native populations adapted to European cultural ideals and practices and for its association with the history of tenant laborers.โ€

Looking towards the future, the Graton Rancheria released its Tribal Perspective on Climate Change in 2013. The tribe speaks of the hundreds of sacred sites throughout the park that are threatened by erosion and submergence as the seas rise again. โ€œIn the traditional and historical cultural order, the destruction of cultural resources occurred and this loss was permitted because the spirits in nature have power over them. Now, natural climate change and its effects cannot be separated from โ€ฆ pollution from modern life and industry.โ€ Human action is required if Tamรกl Hรบye is to heal from human action.

And the dead abide.


Craig Kenkel and Point Reyes National Seashore staff did not respond to multiple calls and emails requesting comment on the facts presented in this story.

Please support investigative reporting: www.peterbyrne.info

Culture Crush: Virtual Events Persist in May

Fourteen months into the Covid-19 pandemic, the North Bay remains in the Orange Tier, designated by California’s “Blueprint for a Safer Economy.”

As venues and business slowly open up for in-person events, several groups keep the distancing going with virtual event offerings this weekend. Hereโ€™s a roundup of whatโ€™s coming up.

Virtual Reading

Pioneering scientist Dr. Suzanne Simard has changed the way we understand forest ecosystems, and her work in studying plant communication and intelligence is often compared to the works of Rachel Carson. Now, in her debut book, Finding The Mother Tree,  Simard illuminates the intimate world of the trees, and the complicated underground networks by which trees communicate. Simard reads from FindingThe Mother Tree and speaks with Pulitzer Prizeโ€“finalist David Haskell, author of The Songs of Trees, in an online event hosted by Point Reyes Books and co-sponsored by Emergence Magazine on Friday, May 7, at noon. Registration required at ptreyesbooks.com.

Virtual Event

Bay Areaโ€“based nonprofit organization California Trout works to ensure resilient wild fish thrive in healthy waters throughout the state. This week, the group marks a milestone in conservation with the 2021 Trout Camp Gala, which celebrates 50 years of action and success. The gala boasts a high-energy virtual showcase hosted by CalTrout Executive Director Curtis Knight, and CalTrout board member and owner of Lost Coast Outfitters George Revel. Tune in to see the innovative conservation work across the state, cameos from CalTrout staff and more on Friday, May 7, at 6:30pm. Free; RSVP required at caltrout.org.

Virtual Talk

May is Mental Health Awareness Month, and this month is also the 60th anniversary of the first time that Peanuts comic-strip character Lucy put โ€œThe Doctor Is Inโ€ sign on her psychiatry boothโ€”from a Peanuts strip first published on May 4, 1961. In that context, the Charles M. Schulz Museum is hosting a virtual panel discussion, โ€œThe Doctor Is In: Exploring Mental Health Through Comics,โ€ moderated by cartoonist and medical professional Dr. Ian Williams and featuring cartoonists Brickโ€”a.k.a. John Stuart Clarkโ€” Gemma Correll and Ellen Forney on Saturday, May 8, at noon. Free; pre-registration required at schulzmuseum.org.

Virtual Class

The Sonoma County chapter of nationwide nonprofit group Cake4Kids launched in August of 2020 to provide underserved children and at-risk youth with a cake on their birthday as a memorable and impactful positive experience. This weekend, Cake4Kids offers everyone a positive experience with a virtual Family Bake-A-Long led by Sonoma County pastry chef Mimo Ahmed. Born in Ethiopia, Ahmed is best known in the North Bay for her blog, The Empty Plate, and she teaches participants how to make classic chocolate-chunk cookies and snickerdoodle cookies from scratch while raising money for Cake4Kids on Sunday, May 9, at 11am. $25. Register at cake4kids.org.

Virtual Concert

Beginning last fall, the Green Music Centerโ€“Sonoma State Universityโ€™s world-class live music venueโ€“has offered two semesters’ worth of online shows in lieu of live events. Dubbed โ€˜The Green Room,โ€™ this virtual program of events comes to a close this weekend when Green Music Center hosts a virtual concert experience from the renowned St. Lawrence String Quartet on Sunday, May 9, at 3pm. $10. Get tickets at gmc.sonoma.edu.

Open Mic: Grieving Joyously

By Joy Appleby

I just attended a funeral.

It was not my first. At the other two services, my mind and emotions shut off. I donโ€™t remember them, more than arriving, feeling weird and feeling no connection with anyone else present, alive or underground, although I was related to the celebrants.

I didnโ€™t know what to expect from a funeral service, much less that it was being held in a cemetery, at her gravesite. A friend asked, โ€œWhere else would it be held?โ€ โ€œUh, I donโ€™t know,โ€ I answered.

The lady was a gracious, gentle soul who delighted in life and in nurturing life around her. Her joy at being alive was unmistakable; that she revered life in all its forms was obvious.

I suppose I had some preconceived notions about size being important. โ€œThe bigger the better.โ€ โ€œThe one with the most toys when he dies, is the winner!โ€œ (or, in this case, โ€œsheโ€). The greater the number of people who show up for the service, indicates how โ€œgoodโ€ a person they were or โ€œhow well-lovedโ€ or โ€œhow many points they had accumulated in their lifetimeโ€ …

Achievements are often listed pompously and at great volume; her achievements were palpable in the loving gentleness and the humorous laughter shared by her family members and friends present for their last farewell, a remembrance of her kindness and encouragement to all. A life well lived and well loved.

The feelings were authentic, as was she. The sadness I experienced among the witnesses at her last resting place and felt at the service was mixed with the elation her loved ones held close to their hearts at remembering how much joy she brought to all, each day she walked with us.

I had no clue that a funeral remembrance service could be so fulfilling, so uplifting, so honoring of her enjoyment of life and overflowing with unifying community spirit. Could we but exchange those feelings with each other every day, remembering that each moment of life is a gift, and hoping that we can all tune into sharing the โ€œpresent.โ€

Joy Appleby lives in West Marin. We welcome your contribution. To have your topical essay of 350 words considered for publication, write op*****@******an.com.

SOMO Grove Dinner and Music Series Puts Local Bands Back on Stage

Fourteen months into the Covid-19 pandemic, the North Bayโ€™s restrictions are slowly, but surely, lifting on social gatherings.

With that, one of the regionโ€™s most popular past timesโ€“live musicโ€“is making its way back with socially distant, outdoor concerts like the upcoming SOMO Grove Dinner & Music Series.

The series is curated by event producer, booker and promoter Bryce Dow-Williamson, who worked with venues and organizations like Second Octave, Railroad Square Music Festival, SOMO Concerts, and The Mystic Theatre before the pandemic.

For this new pop-up series, Dow-Williamson blends locally sourced meals and locally sourced bands for seated, outdoor shows.

โ€œIts been strange times for so many,โ€ Dow-Williamson says. โ€œPeople are hungry to see music.โ€ 

Located under the redwoods at the SOMO Village in Rohnert Park, the series starts on Friday, May 21, with the already sold-out show by Sonoma County folk trio Rainbow Girls with Daniel Steinbock, Caitlin Jemma and Eric Long.

Following that, North Bay band Kingsborough (fronted by Billy Kingsborough and lead guitarist Alex Leach) and King Dreamยญ (songwriter and multi-instrumentalist Jeremy Lyon) team up for a royal rock show on Friday, June 4.

Next, soulful rock outfit Highway Poets pair with new project TERRIER (Ben Morrison of Brothers Comatose and Erika Tietjen of T Sisters) for a concert on Friday, June 18.

Each night has a limited 200-person capacity and safety protocols such as face coverings and social distancing will be in effect. Tickets sell in pairs and groups of four or six starting at $30 and going up to $35 ten days before the show. Ten dollars of each ticket goes towards the cost of dinner.

Dow-Williamson hopes to add more shows in July, and heโ€™s keeping the lineups local to showcase the North Bayโ€™s array of talented artists.

โ€œItโ€™s so satisfying for me to work with folks who are from here,โ€ he says. โ€œWe have so many of these acts that are gaining momentum. Itโ€™s a good time to be able to help these bands out in that way and sell something that has some heart in it.โ€

The SOMO Grove Dinner & Music Series takes place on Fridays May 21, June 4 and June 18, at 1100 Valley House Drive, Rohnert Park. Doors 7pm, Show 7:30pm. $30-$35. Tickets available on Eventbrite.

Sonoma County Pride Looks โ€œBeyond the Rainbowโ€ for Reimagined Event in June

Each June, Sonoma County Pride gathers in locales like the Russian River Valley and downtown Santa Rosa for massive, celebratory festivals filled with parades, dance parties and other fun.

Last summer, the Covid-19 pandemic forced the Sonoma County Pride Board of Directors to cancel the 2020 Pride Festival & Parade. A year later, Sonoma County Pride returns for in-person celebrations with the help of Graton Resort & Casino, which is joining the festivities as Annual Title Sponsor of this yearโ€™s Pride celebrations and hosting this yearโ€™s re-imagined โ€œBeyond the Rainbow Drive-Through Paradeโ€ on Saturday, June 5.

The parade event acknowledges and adapts to Covid-19 safety and social distancing regulations by creating a new drive-through experience in the Graton Resort & Casino’s parking lot. Attendees will drive along the parade route and experience the excitement and community of Pride through the stationary displays and celebrations that organizations and individual partipants will display along the route. A streaming soundtrack will also be available to guide and entertain parade-goers as they make their way through the route.

“Our goal is to have no more than 20 to 30 contingents made up of local LGBTQI organizations, allies, and Sonoma County Pride sponsors,” writes Sonoma COunty Pride in a statement.ย “Each group will occupy a designated area in the large outdoor lot at the south end of the property to stage their stationary โ€˜floatโ€™, with mindful limits on the number of people allowed on-premise. As in our traditional parade, Sonoma County Pride 2021 judges will judge and choose the winning parade displays for 2021, to be announced during one of our live streams.”

Sonoma County Pride President Christopher Kren-Mora is confident that this distanced adaptation to the Pride Festival will be a fun and memorable experience.

“Sonoma County Pride is proud and grateful to announce that Graton Resort & Casino has determined once again to partner with our organization in presenting events for 2021 so that SCP is able to continue to be a beacon of education, solidarity, equality and unity to the community,” writes Kren-Mora in a statement. “Graton Resort & Casino has been a supporter and major contributor to Sonoma County Pride and the LGBT community for since it opened in 2013.”

Graton Resort & Casino Chairman Greg Sarris led the move to offer the Resortโ€™s support for Pride and the Sonoma LGBTQ community again this year.

“Graton Resort and Casino is honored to be the Annual Title Sponsor of 2021 Sonoma County Pride.ย Our core values are fostering compassion, inclusiveness and understanding of all citizens in our community,” writes Sarris in a statement.ย “I am always adamant in making sure that the LGBTQ community is not only represented but protected. As I have said before, the only thing we donโ€™t tolerate here at the casino resort is intolerance.”

The drive-through parade is one of several “micro-events” that Sonoma County Pride will host throughout Sonoma County in June. The other planned events will offer activities for all ages and abilities.

The theme for this year’s monthlong Pride Festival, “Beyond the Rainbow: Surviving, Reviving, and Thriving,” takes inspiration from The Wizard of Oz to offer renewal and support to the LGBTQ community. “Thereโ€™s no place like home being back together with our community,” writes Sonoma County Prideโ€™s Secretary Cheryl Kabanuck in a statement. “Courage leads us here, knowledge is how we survive and heart is what keeps us together.”

Sonoma County Pride hosts โ€œBeyond the Rainbow Drive-Through Paradeโ€ on Saturday, June 5, from 11am to 2pm.ย Free admission; suggested donation of $5 at the gate. To reserve your time block or have your own float or display in the parade visit SonomaCountyPride.org.

Art Returns to Sonoma Plaza This Summer

Already a popular spot for outdoor gatherings, Sonomaโ€™s Historic Plaza is getting an artistic addition this summer, as Sonoma Valley Museum of Art and the City of Sonoma present the new public art installation, โ€œA Delicate Balance.โ€ย 

On view in the downtown plaza from May 4 to October 19, the exhibition will feature 8 large-scale sculptures by four outstanding artists from diverse backgroundsโ€”Bruce Beasley, Catherine Daley, Peter Hassen, and Jun Kaneko.ย 

Bruce Beasley is an American abstract expressionist sculptor born in Los Angeles and currently living and working in Oakland. He studied sculpture at UC Berkeley under the instruction of Peter Voulkos and helped found the famous Garbanzo Works foundry in west Berkeley. Beasley continues to explore various sculptural mediums ranging from cast aluminum to Lucite to bronze to granite to wood. His works are in collections of major museums around the world including the Museum of Modern Art, New York; Musee dโ€™Art Moderne, Paris; and the National Art Museum of China, Beijing; among other prominent institutions.

Catherine Daleyโ€™s sculptural works range from large installations to small and delicate pieces in bronze, aluminum, plexiglass, wood, steel and granite. Her Aurora series is based on the stunning beauty of the Aurora Borealis and allude to light, water and music. Daley teaches art at Sonoma Academy and serves on the board of Pacific Rim Sculptors. Her works have been exhibited throughout California at Sonoma State University, Marin MoCA, Luther Burbank Center for the Arts, Paradise Ridge, Pepperwood Preserve, and Oakwilde Ranch.

Peter Hassenย is a conceptual artist working in sculpture, painting, printmaking, photography, video and landscape intervention. He has exhibited work in national galleries and on public lands for more than two decades.ย Theย Cyclesย series focuses on themes of nature, science, and spirituality. Born in Cincinnati,ย Ohio, Hassenย received his BFA from University of Colorado in Boulder and now lives and works in Sonoma.

Jun Kanekoย was born in Nagoya, Japan, and studied painting with Satoshi Ogawa during his adolescence. He came to the United States in 1963 to continue his studies at UC Berkeley, Chouinard Art Institute (CalArts), and Scripps College. He studied withย Peter Voulkos,ย Paul Soldner, and Jerry Rothman during the time now defined as the California Clay Movement. Kaneko later taught at various U.S. art schools, includingย Scripps College,ย Cranbrook Academy of Artย andย Rhode Island School of Design. Based in Omaha since 1986, Jun Kanekoโ€™s artwork appears in numerous international and national solo and group exhibitions and is included in more than seventy museum collections.

Comprised of abstract and representational sculptures in metal, granite, and plexiglass, โ€œA Delicate Balanceโ€ explores the relationship between the natural world and humankindโ€™s technology, and viewers are reminded of the fragile nature of life.

โ€œSVMA is pleased to partner with the City of Sonoma to bring the art of such diverse and stellar artists,โ€ says SVMA Executive Director Linda Keaton in a statement. โ€œProviding public art fulfills SVMAโ€™s mission of Building Community Around Art.โ€ 

The sculptures will be installed on May 4 and a formal opening reception, attended by some of the artists, is being planned for late June pending Center for Disease Control (CDC) guidelines.ย In addition to the partnership between the City of Sonoma and the SVMA, this public exhibit is made possible with support from Sonoma Valley Chamber of Commerce, Creative Sonoma, Elaine and Graham Smith, Dana Simpson-Stokes and Ken Stokes, Leslie and Mac McQuown, Bank of Marin and Steel Geisha Designs. Get more information atย svma.org.

Open Mic: Point Reyes National Feedlot Backed by Surprising Allies, Usual Suspects

Right now, the National Park Service is rewriting its General Management Plan for Point Reyes National Seashore, and the agency must decide whether to sunset the expired livestock grazing leases across tens of thousands of publicly-owned acres, or to continue authorizing unsustainable overgrazing, tillage agriculture and even the killing of native tule elk by extending leases that were never intended to continue on indefinitely.

It shouldnโ€™t be a difficult choice for the National Park Service, but the livestock industry has some surprising supporters. Rep. Jared Huffman, a former National Resources Defense Council attorney and Green New Deal signatory, has staked out an anti-environmental position on what is arguably the most important environmental issue inside his own congressional district, and is in fact leading the charge in advocating for continuing the ongoing environmental destruction on Point Reyes.

The ranchers who rent National Park Service lands are permitted to graze them down to bare dirt. As a result, the cattle pastures are made up uniformly of European annual grasses and foreign thistles. Livestock grazing has completely destroyed the native coastal prairie on Point Reyes and turned it into a vast weed patch, destroying native shrubs and bunchgrasses that otherwise would have beneficially sequestered soil carbon underground. On top of the direct grazing impacts, almost 1,000 acres of Point Reyes are devoted to producing โ€œsilage cropsโ€โ€”more non-native weeds, which infiltrate surrounding landsโ€”which are harvested in spring using combine harvesters, mowing down ground-nesting birds and deer fawns in a grisly spectacle attended by flocks of carrion birds. In addition, the dairies produce cow manure by the ton, which gets spread out on the hilltops, runs into the stream courses and creates some of Californiaโ€™s most polluted waters. These streams run to beaches and estuaries frequented by beachgoers, exposing them to potentially fatal fecal coliform contamination and other animal-borne diseases.

Then, consider that most of the tule elk, the rarest subspecies of elk in the world, are trapped by a tall fence on a small peninsula of the National Seashore for the sake of protecting forage resources for cattle. Without adequate water and forage, tule elk die by the hundreds during droughtsโ€”which are becoming deeper and more frequentโ€”unable to escape to find food and water through natural dispersal. Outside the fence, small elk herds are harassed by ranchers and even killed by the Park Service for wandering onto lands leased by cattle. And then there are Endangered Species Actโ€“listed plants, birds, amphibians and salmon runs on the National Seashore, and none of them flourish in these degraded habitats.

Itโ€™s that bad, and paradoxically, Huffman is fighting hard to keep it that way.

Huffman isnโ€™t listening to his constituents. Not even when 91% of those who commented on the Parkโ€™s proposed plan wanted to end industrial agriculture on the Seashore. Not when locals showed up at his town hall meetings demanding protections for native tule elk. And not when his constituents picketed his district office and staged massive protests outside the elk fence during a new die-off that even now is killing more than 150 elk. Itโ€™s a strange position for an elected official to take, but Californians seem cursed to live in interesting times.

Huffman has some strange bedfellows in his quest to keep ranching the Seashore. Former President Trump made it a personal priority to extend cattle operations on Point Reyes. Trump invited Kevin Lunny, the ringleader of the Point Reyes ranching lobby, to be a featured speaker at a White House bill-signing ceremony. His administration then proposed a management plan which would not only extend commercial ranching and dairying on the park lands, but expand livestock use and further harass and kill tule elk for the benefit of livestock operations.

When Huffman authored legislation to force the National Park Service to extend industrial-scale dairy and beef operations on Point Reyes and authorize the Park Service to kill tule elk at the behest of tenant ranchers, he turned to Utah Rep. Rob Bishop to co-sponsor the legislation. Bishop was Public Lands Enemy #1 during his tenure in Congress. He tried to repeal the Endangered Species Act. He supported transferring federal public lands to the states, and sought to amend the Antiquities Act to strip the president of the authority to designate National Monuments. Bishopโ€™s lifetime League of Conservation Voters score is 3%. Bishopโ€™s endorsement of Huffmanโ€™s bill should be a red flag that itโ€™s a big problem, but Huffman seems proud to have Bishop on board.

The League of Conservation Voters scores Huffmanโ€™s lifetime voting record at 98% pro-conservation. But while Huffmanโ€™s voting record has been reliably good on national conservation issues from climate change to endangered species protection to wilderness designations, his currently abysmal, anti-environmental record on Point Reyes will haunt him in his home district. We hope he comes around, and starts listening to the 3 million National Seashore visitors who arenโ€™t coming for the unsavory sights and sounds of working dairies and ranches. Theyโ€™re coming for the public recreation, benefit and inspiration for which, by law, Point Reyes is supposed to be managed.

Point Reyes National Seashoreโ€”and its iconic tule elkโ€”are too special to sacrifice for politics. 

Erik Molvar is Executive Director, and Greta Anderson is Deputy Director, of Western Watersheds Project, a conservation nonprofit working to protect and restore wildlife and watersheds throughout the American West.

Saved the Farm

0

Local farming makes a comeback

Rooted

All across the U.S., Americans of every shape, size and skin color are taking up farming and growing vegetables in the spirit of Joy Harjo, the Native American poet who writes:

Remember the earth whose skin you are:

red earth, black earth, yellow earth, white earth, brown earth.

Theyโ€™re remembering the earth in the North Bayโ€™s valleys and hillsides, and theyโ€™re jump-starting the latest incarnation of the worldwide farming movement that comes and goes, from boom to bust and back to boom again.

Right now, the movement is cresting at Radical Family Farm, where Leslie Wiser and her partner, Sarah Deragon, grow Asian vegetables. The two women and their children are newcomers to farming and might need reminding that โ€œradicalโ€ means โ€œof, relating to, or proceeding from a root.โ€ Carrots, beets, radishes, corn, turnips and many more vegetables have roots.

Unlike most local farmers, Wiser broadcasts her many identities: โ€œQueer, first-generation Taiwanese-Chinese-German-Polish-American.โ€

Also, unlike most farmers, she says that her farm is on โ€œCoast Miwok and Southern Pomo land.โ€ Once, all the land was indigenous, though the Native Americans didnโ€™t have European ownership with deeds and titles. They โ€œtended the landscape,โ€ as itโ€™s called, and grew plants, radically.

During the pandemic, local farms and farmers fared well. Vegetables continue to grow despite Covid-19. Farmers markets from San Rafael and Point Reyes Station to Sebastopol and Sonoma sold produce hand over fist, while Instagram helped the farm movement grow by leaps and bounds.

Curiously, some farms keep such a low profile that itโ€™s impossible to find them. I tried to locate County Line Harvest in Marin, but it wasnโ€™t where it was supposed to be, and there was no sign of its legendary founder, David Graetsky. Rumor has it he moved to Thermal, California where he has more abundant land than North of the Golden Gate and more water, which is almost always a worry in these parts.

Oak Hill Reborn

Oak Hill Farm in Glen Ellen, which has been around for decades, is a multi-generational family operation drawing on the resources and skills of the whole Bucklin tribe, which has deep roots in Sonoma Valley. You canโ€™t miss Oak Hill or the Red Barn where produce is sold. For years, Anne Teller, the family matriarch, ran Oak Hill with a team of versatile Mexican field workers and a series of white guys who came and went and sometimes thought they knew most everything about vegetables. Not true.

When Anne passed on May 27, 2019, a month or so shy of her 88th birthday, hundreds of friends, neighbors and family members attended her memorial. In the wake of her passing, the farm descended into near chaos. Anneโ€™s daughters, Arden and Kate, scrambled to get Oak Hill back on track and managed to keep their heads above water, barely.

โ€œThe farm was a wreck,โ€ Arden tells me. โ€œMorale was low, the land was depleted and leadership lacking.โ€

Oak Hill didnโ€™t really find its stride again until Arden and Kateโ€™s niece and nephew, Melissa Bucklin and Jimi Good, both of them young but experienced farmers, relocated from Oregon, put down roots, ploughed fields, planted and harvested, and persuaded the earth to sing again. They also tested and amended the soil, planted cover crops and added compost.

โ€œWhen Melissa and Jimi first applied to work here, I said โ€˜No,โ€™โ€ Arden tells me. โ€œI didnโ€™t want more family. But I have come to see that having skin in the game makes all the difference in the world.โ€

Melissa and Jimi have helping hands from everyone in the family, including those of their 8-year-old son, Bodhi, who minds the chickens and gathers the eggs. Aunt Lizanne looks after the bees and collects the honey, and Melissaโ€™s father, Ted, adds his skills as a carpenter. Kate works on the farmโ€™s infrastructure.

Arden lends her wisdom almost every day. Across Highway 12, a stoneโ€™s throw away, Lizanneโ€™s husband, Will, grows grapes and makes full-bodied red wines that go well with pasta, steak and grilled veggies.

Soon after I first met Anne Teller in 2007, she told me, โ€œPeople come and go, the land remains.โ€ It was hard for me to wrap my head around that idea, but the longer I thought about it the more it made sense. Anneโ€™s second husband, Otto Teller, an avid environmentalist, was gone. Now Anne was gone and so were the two farmers, Paul Wirtz and David Cooper, who aimed to put their own stamp on the land and sometimes clashed with the family matriarch.

On a warm spring afternoon, I sat and talked with Melissa and Jimi, 38, the new kids in the fields. It was obvious that the land remained, though it had been punished by drought and fire, and though field workers came and went. Some went back to Mexico for good. โ€œIโ€™m the greasy thumb and take care of all the farm machinery,โ€ Jimi tells me. โ€œMelissa is the green thumb and spends most of her days in the fields.โ€

Jimi adds, โ€œIn Sonoma the growing season starts earlier and runs later than where we were farming in Oregon. Itโ€™s hotter here, and the rainy season doesnโ€™t last as long.โ€

He and Melissa are learning about the climate and about the people who buy their produce inside the Red Barn at Oak Hill and at the Friday morning outdoor market in the town of Sonoma where locals meet and greet one another, and tourists join the festivities.

โ€œItโ€™s essential to communicate,โ€ Jimi says. โ€œAlso, we have to educate our customers, and explain for example how to prepare turnips.โ€ Melissa adds, โ€œPeople want stuff for salads, so weโ€™re growing more lettuce.โ€

At Oak Hill there are 90 different species of flowers and dozens of different kinds of vegetables and fruits. โ€œDiversity is the way to go,โ€ Melissa says. โ€œIt allows for year-round cultivation and seasonal plantings. You can rotate, not suck nutrients out of the soil and keep a field crew going in all four seasons.โ€

After 15 months at Oak Hill, she and Jimi seem as settled as any farmers can be. They are balancing what they call โ€œthe romance of farmingโ€ with the โ€œpractically of farming.โ€

Arden tells me, โ€œMy mother would do things differently, but I think sheโ€™d be proud of how things are going and growing at Oak Hill now.โ€

Jimi smiles and says, โ€œThereโ€™s nothing more manly than farming.โ€ Melissa adds, โ€œFarming is for everybody.โ€ Arden says that young, college-educated women, more than any other demographic group, want jobs on farms, perhaps because farming is associated with nurturing and harmony with Mother Earth. โ€œIt beats the hell out of sitting at a desk and looking at a screen,โ€ she adds.

No longer can a landowner expect migrants from Mexico to plant and harvest. Itโ€™s also a challenge to persuade low-income families to buy local produce, which is more expensive than produce cultivated by big machines in the Central Valley. Still, if the pandemic taught Sonoma farmers one thing, itโ€™s that shoppers want vegetables grown close to home. The question, โ€œIs it local?โ€ is heard every Friday at the farmersโ€™ market and in the Red Barn. Arden smiles and says, โ€œYes.โ€

The Cannards

RETURNING  Ross Cannard followed in the footsteps of previous generations of his family and joined Green String farm, which runs a local CSA program and also provides vegetables for Alice Watersโ€™ Chez Panisse restaurant in Berkeley.

There are several beautiful family farms, including Green String, within a 15-mile radius of Oak Hill. Green String is run by Bob Cannard, the grandfather of local, organic agriculture. Bob educated thousands of farmers who now grow crops from Maine and Florida to Michigan and New Mexico. The Green String Store sells honey, vinegar, olive oil, eggs, dairy, meats, fruits and vegetables galore.

Bobโ€™s son, Ross, who studied linguistics at UC Santa Cruz, came home to follow in the footsteps of his father and grandfather. โ€œStudying linguistics at Santa Cruz isnโ€™t helping me plant onions this morning,โ€ he tells me. Along with his wife, heโ€™s rearing two small children.

Ross belongs to the โ€œreturning generationโ€ which is populated by the sons and daughters, grandsons and granddaughters of farmers who went away and then felt the tug of the land and did an about-face. On Sobre Vista Roadโ€”a short distance, as the crow flies, from Green Stringโ€”Ross grows year-round. He and his dad respect one another and keep a comfortable distance.

Fifty or so locals subscribe to Rossโ€™ CSA. Once a week, they receive a box with goodies which they pick up at the Tasting House for Sixteen 600 Winery in Sonoma, where they can visit with wine maven, Sam Coturri, and purchase excellent grenache and cabernet from local, organic grapes.

Ross provides vegetables to Chez Panisse, the Berkeley restaurant founded by Alice Waters, who has done more than any other chef in America to educate the public about local produce and healthy food. On a Monday morning when I visited Ross, two women, both bartenders at Chez, were planting thousands of onions in a field bathed in sunlight. Kayla and Sydney belong to what might be called the bartending-to-outdoors movement. Sydney says, โ€œIโ€™ve learned how hard farming is and how much planning is involved.โ€

Ross looks away from the onions heโ€™s planting. โ€œFarming goes in cycles,โ€ he tells me. โ€œUntil the 1940s, small farms were the norm around here. Then, Big Ag arrived. Now the pendulum is swinging back. The small farm movement is growing again all around the world.โ€

And close to home, too.

The โ€œFarmilyโ€

Flatbed Farm in Glen Ellen on Highway 12, a mere 1.8 miles from Oak Hill, is operated by three women who call themselves โ€œa farmily.โ€ Sofie Dolan owns the farm with her husband, Chris, the co-founder, and with his cousin, Matthew, the executive chef at 25 Lusk, which is one of my favorite San Francisco restaurants. Once, Lusk took much of the produce Flatbed had to offer. Now, the produce is mostly sold on Saturdays, from 9am to 3pm, to loyal locals who shop as though itโ€™s part of their religion.

โ€œWe have a series of monthly outdoor workshops to educate people on how to garden on their own,โ€ Sofie says.

Her family members were farmers in Sweden. She still remembers โ€œHostbeckโ€โ€”thatโ€™s the name of the farmโ€”the land, the hayloft and the chicken coop. โ€œWeโ€™ve tried to recreate some of Hostbeck here,โ€ she says.

Hayley, from Maine, has long felt passionate about plants. Sheโ€™s the farm manager during the day and in the evening a waitress at Salt & Stone on Highway 12 in Kenwoodโ€”which features local mushrooms, oysters from Drakeโ€™s Estero and Atlantic lobster.

โ€œDuring the pandemic, Flatbed has been my sanctuary and my pride,โ€ Hayley tells me. โ€œI talk to the plants and play classical music for them.โ€ She pauses a moment and adds, โ€œOne of the silver linings of the pandemic is that it has brought the farming community closer together than ever before. We have reached out one to another, shared seeds and did trouble shooting together.โ€

Hayley is helping to educate customers about companion planting. Sheโ€™s also putting into practice things she learned at school. โ€œI belong to a network of women farmers who are also mothers,โ€ she tells me. โ€œWe embrace Mother Nature and have a sense of acceptance about the rhythms and cycles of farming.โ€

Amie Pfeifer writes the Flatbed newsletter, which includes recipes for meals that are โ€œfast, healthy and delicious.โ€ She also runs the Flatbed store, which sells produce, flowers and โ€œvalue-added productsโ€ like preserves and pickles. Amie grew up on a farm in Nebraska which once depended on manual labor, but is now โ€œindustrializedโ€ and grows GMO corn. โ€œI got out of unhealthy and into health,โ€ Amie tells me. โ€œIf you want to be happy, donโ€™t take a pill, go to a farm or to a farmersโ€™ market.โ€

Itโ€™s time to head to Flatbed, where you can buy vegetable starts and meet the โ€œfarmily.โ€ Hayley, Amie and Sofie would like nothing better. Erase the blues. Turn over the soil and grow your own. You might find it addicting.

Jonah Raskin is the author of โ€œMarijuanaland: Dispatches from an American War.โ€

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