Talking Pictures

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The Accidental Buddhist


David Appleby

The High and the Flighty: Brad Pitt stars in ‘Seven Years in Tibet,’ which folk-singing Buddhist Peter Rowan thinks is heavy.

Folk-singing Buddhist Peter Rowan discusses the smoking ’60s, the brutal ‘Seven Years in Tibet’ and the always popular noble eight-fold path

By David Templeton

Metro Santa Cruz writer David Templeton takes interesting people to interesting movies in his ongoing quest for the ultimate post-film conversation. This time out, he calls that loquacious bluegrass Buddhist, Peter Rowan, in Austin, Texas, to discuss the sprawling spiritual epic Seven Years in Tibet.

PETER ROWAN IS TELLING a story. “I’d been living in Nashville,” he says, his distinctive voice a bit rough and raw this early in the morning. “I’d been into Buddhism for a while, and suddenly I was in Berkeley feeling like the only Buddhist in the world. One day, I was going somewhere, was lost, and I needed to ask directions. So I stopped at this one place, and a woman opened the door. And I saw a Tibetan painting in the back of the hall, and I said, ‘Oh. Are you a Buddhist?’ And she said, ‘Well . . . only accidentally.’ “

Rowan laughs, an infectious, raucous rumble of a laugh. “An accidental Buddhist,” he chuckles. “I loved that! It’s an apt description of a lot of us who started out in the ’60s holding that vision of heaven on Earth. What we wanted to see was a little less aggression, right, a little more compassion? Well, that’s the Buddhist path.”

That path has now led Rowan–best known as a member of Bill Monroe’s legendary Bluegrass Boys and as the wild-eyed yodeling ringleader of the psychedelic folk band Free Mexican Air Force–around the world and through numerous musical incarnations. His poetic, mystically tinged songwriting, along with his surprising and energetic showmanship, have gained him an international following among those who applaud the twisting and blending of traditional musical forms. Though an occasional song reflects the spiritual side of the musician, his religious beliefs have yet to make an appearance in his music.

“Bluegrass and Tibetan Buddhism don’t really mesh too well,” Rowan laughs. “Though they do have something in common. It’s all mountain music, isn’t it?”

Last night in Austin, Rowan was able to see the film Seven Years in Tibet, which stars Brad Pitt. Based on Heinrich Harrer’s memoirs of the same name, Seven Years is a lush retelling of then-Nazi Harrer’s life-changing experiences in the Himalayan mountains. At the start of WWII, he was sent to conquer a Himalayan mountain peak “for the glory of Germany.” Instead, he was captured by British troops.

After escaping from a POW camp in India, Harrer made his way to Tibet, where–through a series of accidents–he became the tutor of the young Dalai Lama, the spiritual and temporal ruler of Tibet until that country’s violent occupation by China in the 1950s. China, not surprisingly, has denounced the film.

“There’s an underlying sadness in this movie that is just heartbreaking,” Rowan describes. “On one level, it’s the story of an arrogant, egocentric mountain climber and his gradual awakening to kindness. But the deeper theme is the tragedy of Tibet itself. I didn’t know it was going to be so strong of a statement. No wonder the Chinese are upset. It’s brutal. One of the people I saw it with last night is a long-time follower of the Dharma. She was pretty bummed.”

Bluegrass Boy on a Dharmic Path

A FOOTNOTE AT THE END of Seven Years in Tibet announces that since the Dalai Lama fled Tibet in 1959, millions of Tibetans have been killed, and thousands of monasteries have been destroyed. “But the culture is still alive,” Rowan insists. “Just go to Nepal. It’s there. The Tibetans have moved down into Katmandu. You go out to Bohda. It’s a major, thriving area. There are, like, 15 monasteries. There were only five monasteries when I was there in ’92. It’s tripled.

“For people who’ve been connected with this for years, there’s another level at work in the movie, too,” he continues. “They showed that the Dalai Lama was wanting to know about this other world beyond Tibet. He wanted Harrer to tell him about everything–even to build him a movie theater. And, lo and behold, the irony of the thing is that now, the outside world is his world. You’ve got to admit that’s pretty ironic.”

One of the results of the Dalai Lama’s exile from Tibet is his frequent trips to the West–and to America in particular–as an unofficial ambassador of Buddhism. Although Zen and other Eastern religions have enjoyed waves of popularity among Westerners, Buddhism has never had so high a profile here as it does today. Gone are the days when Rowan felt like the only Buddhist in town.

So what accident was it that bumped a bluegrass boy onto the dharmic path?

“You know what it was?” he rumbles. “It was Aristotle.”

Really?

“Oh, yeah,” Rowan says. “In the late ’60s, I was living in Cape Cod and there was a guy there who offered a class called ‘In the Writings of Aristotle.’ There were a bunch of us in the class. We were just hippies, smoking pot but making our philosophical inquiries. One day, I asked, ‘What kind of society could ever survive while devoting themselves to a life of the mind?’ That’s when he told me about Tibet, a culture that dedicated itself entirely to philosophical inquiry.

“Shortly after that,” he goes on, “I was touring in Scotland, and I dropped in on a Tibetan center there. I met the Lamas. I learned about the noble eight-fold path–kind of a Tibetan how-to to enlightenment. To my addled mind, which was suffering under a lot of confusion and guilt at that time, it just seemed a very orderly way. It was comforting to learn that the only thing we owe each other, in this receipt-ridden world, is kindness.”

With another chuckle, he adds, “I can live with that.”

From the Oct. 23-29, 1997 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Janet Reno & the White House tapes

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Washington Watch

By Doug Ireland

Just when one thought that the Clinton/Gore fundraising machine’s remarkable combination of cupidity and stupidity had lost its power to astonish, the revelation that the White house actually videotaped the fundraisers held there has transformed the Donorgate scandal into Theater of the Absurd.

The taping of these access-selling caffeine fixes was, to borrow Talleyrand’s famous phrase, worse than a crime, it was a mistake. Why? Because the fact that their existence was concealed from the Justice Department makes a mockery of Janet Reno’s claims to have carried out a competent and independent inquest into the sleazy campaign cash collections of the president and his closest aides. If the White House fundraising scandal has dragged on as long as it has, it is because the president’s men wrote everything down, documenting their legal floutings with such an unconcerned arrogance that only unfettered hubris can explain it all. Power, as they say, corrupts.

With Time magazine’s revelations that the organized boodlings were taped, it is clear that the Clintonoids learned nothing from Watergate. First they tried to satisfy the inevitable firestorm of curiosity by releasing edited versions of the tapes. Only 44 cassettes have been made public as of this writing, although the Washington Post reports that at least 150 fundraising events at the White House were recorded. And on the tape of one access-selling orgy featuring the notorious funny-money bundler John Hwang, the audio is conveniently missing. Edited tapes and an audio gap-the parallels with Richard Nixon’s coverup of his crimes are so blatant as to be laughable.

Janet Reno’s argument, in her defense brief for the president last Friday, that she had found no “credible evidence” to trigger the independent-counsel statute came just one day after a front-page New York Times story found that the Clintonoids had illegally transferred at least $32 million to state Democratic parties to pay for more TV ads. As Jill Abramson and Leslie Wayne put it in their report, “the plan was conceived and coordinated by the Clinton/Gore campaign staff and Democratic Party officials as an end-run around legal spending limits… The Clinton campaign had agreed to the limits in return for accepting millions of dollars in public financing.”

This amounts to a conspiracy to obtain taxpayer dollars by fraud. Add–to mention but three of the more odiferous Clinton shakedowns–the systematic transfer of millions in soft-money contributions to hard money accounts by the Democratic National Committee; the DNC money-laundering scandal to help Ron Carey’s re-election as Teamsters president; and fugitive oil financier Roger Tamraz’s purchase of six encounters with the president for $300,000 in campaign cash. This outpouring of evidence spells willful blindness on Reno’s part.

The independent counsel law was created on the common-sense assumption that no administration of either party can properly investigate itself. If there were any doubts that Reno is in a self-evident conflict of interest, the revelation that the White House was able to conceal the videotapes from her less-than-zealous Justice Department underlings should remove those doubts.

The fact is that Reno has been a perfectly execrable Attorney General, who on her watch has countenanced and endorsed a series of assaults on the Bill of Rights worthy of an Ed Meese. To wit: Clinton’s Oklahoma City-driven Anti-Terrorist Bill, drawn so broadly that it would have barred the AFL-CIO from helping Nelson Mandela’s African National Congress; the Clinton demand for FBI access to any and all computer messages it wants (the electronic equivalent of the Post Office opening all one’s mail); the FBI’s proposal for unparalleled access to medical records, hitherto the most sacred of privileged documents; the one-strike-and-you’re-out ukase for federal public housing, permitting the expulsion of an entire family if any of its members is accused-not convicted, mind you–of selling so much as a single joint; and more.

The tape scandal, however, shows that Reno is not simply inconscient but incompetent (and that’s the charitable interpretation). A year ago, Common Cause petitioned Reno for a special prosecutor to investigate the fundraising practices of both major political parties, a request which the A.G. rejected out of hand. Common Cause was right then. The disclosures of the last weeks show that, more than ever, they’re right now.

Web exclusive to the Oct. 16-22, 1997, 1997 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Santa Rosa Brewing Co.

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[ Brewpub Index ]

Sonoma County Brewpub Guide


Michael Amsler

Galloping Gourmet: Santa Rosa Brewing Company’s head chef Anthony Sissa serves up the goods.

Santa Rosa Brewing Company
Seventh and B streets, Santa Rosa
544-HOPS

Hours: Daily, from 11:30 a.m. except during football season, when Sunday brunch begins at 10 a.m.; closed at midnight Sunday-Wednesday; open until 1 a.m. Thursday-Saturday
Credit Cards: Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Discover, Diners’ Club
Parking: On the street–a nightmare if you’re not willing to cheat and park at the mall

Beer
CURRENTLY ON TAP are the award-winning Naughty Dog Pale Ale, crisp and clean; the Two Rock Amber, rich and, well, yummy; the Bit O’ Black Irish stout with a nice head and rich taste; the Santa Rosa Strong Ale, nicely buzzy; and the English Brown. A recent sampler set also included their annual brewing of a raspberry-infused beer that looked like a ladies’ tea offering and tasted sweet and refreshing. Alas, you poor dogs, it’s all gone until next summer. The sampler is a great deal (four 5-oz. pours for $3), with pints ($2.75) and glasses available ($2).

Seasonal: English Brown, Strong Ale, Santa Rosa Red, and the raspberry.

Brewmaster: Randall DiLibero.

Take-out/Keg Availability: half-gallons, $6.95; five gallons, $45; pony kegs, $60; full-size kegs, $110.

Food
THE SANTA ROSA BREWING CO.–which lays claims to being the first brewpub in the county and still sets a high standard–is dangerously near to the Independent‘s offices, and I am mature enough to admit that any teensy tiny bit of extra flab that might possibly indignify my person perhaps has less to do with the fact that I’m still postpartum (my youngest is only 7, after all) than with the fact that I worship the french fries here ($2.75; with garlic!, $3.25) beyond any reasonable ken. The fries can be ordered as a side to a salad for a well-balanced meal. Crisp, salty, and no doubt responsible for stripping several willingly volunteered years from my life, these fries embody the Platonic ideal.

Typed-up daily specials are slipped into a regular menu that offers a huge and delicious spinach salad ($6.95) and a meal-sized Sonoma salad ($6.95) studded with gorgonzola, walnuts, and apples dressed with a house-made vinaigrette. Other recent lunches have included the fish and chips ($6.95); the brewery burger ($5.95), perfectly cooked, accompanied by, well–you know; and their terrific meal-for-the-day BLT sandwich ($5.75). All sandwiches come with a choice of green or potato salad or fries. You can guess which we order. One editor I know always opts for the Kansas City-style BBQ pork loin sandwich ($6.95). A publisher of my acquaintance is weekly pleased with the French dip ($7.50) served on a roll with au jus sauce. The pizzas ($7.95) are toothsome, and we’ve never yet been heroic enough to save room for either the cheesecake or chocolate dessert specialty ($3.50 each). After all, we are watching what we eat.

Service
THE FRIENDLY, often very fast service neither stuns with its professionalism nor disappoints with gaffes or traumas. Non-intrusive and quite efficient.

Ambiance
THERE IS A VERY RELAXED feeling to the Santa Rosa Brewing Co. Darts are available, televisions are omnipresent, the chairs are comfortable, and they have those little quiz computers to help solo visitors pass the time over a brew. Family friendly, accomodating to live music fans on the weekends, and a good place to watch the game.

Din: Live music on weekends, but aside from the rousing cheers of fans glued to televisions at the bar, ordinary restaurant noise.

Restrooms: Far away and dark but clean.

Non-drinkers: A very comfortable place to sip a soda and watch either sports or other people. Great food doesn’t need beer to wash it down.

Fizz
COMFORTABLE PLACE, good food and brews, nice folks. Fries.

Flat
HMMMMM. Ain’t no negatives.
–G.G.

From the Oct. 16-22, 1997 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Napa Valley Brewing Co.

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[ Brewpub Index ]

Napa County Brewpub Guide


Michael Amsler

Al Fresco: Dining at the Napa Valley Brewing Company is an outdoor experience until late October.

Napa Valley Brewing Company
The Calistoga Inn
1250 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga
942-4101

Hours: Daily, from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Credit Cards: Visa, MasterCard, American Express
Parking: On the street (good luck)

Beer
SAMPLES OF BEER are expensive at $1 per 4 oz. serving. Of the Calistoga Wheat, Calistoga Pilsner, Calistoga Red Ale, and the Calistoga Porter available, we liked the Pilsner best for its clean crispness. Pints are $3.50; half-pints $2.50; pitchers $13. Made with the local water–perhaps you’ve heard of it.

Seasonal: Barley wine.

Brewmaster: Randy Gremp.

Take-out/Keg Availability: 22-oz. bottles, $5.25; 1-gallon beer boxes, $17; half-kegs, $62.50; kegs, $135.

Food
THIS IS A RESTAURANT, make no mistake about it. The fact that they make their own beer is a lovely extra, not the raison d’être. During the warm months, the European-style dining room–beautifully decorated with old window frames and doors, antique table clothes, and platters–is closed, reopening again around the end of October. Otherwise, meals are served on the covered, flagstoned, creekside patio, dominated to one side by the outdoor grill upon which most cooked food is created.

Lunch on a recent afternoon began with the day’s special appetizer (none of these specials are now available), the bruschetta, a lovely, large, grilled wedge of fresh local bread topped with end-of-the-season tomatoes that had been bathed in a basil vinaigrette. This was fork-and-knife food, the dressing seducing the bread. The grumpy child on the table’s dark west face scowled over his perfectly good spicy Mexi-Cal quesadilla ($5.95) served without the serrano or chipotle chilies in a vain attempt to tempt the little bugger into opening his mouth for something other than Sugar Babies. Served with fresh salsa and guacamole on a steaming flour tortilla, this is a good companion to beer, but had become unpardonably (to the child) blackened during the open-fire grilling process. Unfortunately, there was little to eat for children who have not yet developed adult palates, other than the quesadilla.

The house greens ($4.25), a salad composed of organically grown Forni-Brown-Welsh lettuces, was clean and fresh tasting, full of gorgonzola surprises and two large, perfectly peppery, herbed croutons. Another special, the smoked pork chop with mashed potatoes and homemade applesauce, was grilled still-tender and jealously hoarded by the lucky soul who ordered it. In the special sandwich of the day, pork on a potato bun, the meat was tender and flavorful but lost in the floury bun. It made a much better open-faced sandwich and was served with delicious homemade potato chips.

Service
THIS IS THE KIND OF PLACE where the good-looking young waitstaff would clearly rather be flirting with each other than attending to tourists, unless the table is composed of elderly, wealthy-looking people, in which case the servers’ tones tended to be of the unctuous, heir-apparent grandchild variety. Aside from the sense that one was a bother for needing things, food arrived hot and cold as it should, dessert was offered, and the bill was promptly tendered.

Ambiance
THIS IS A LOVELY SETTING: outdoors under a shaded patio in downtown Calistoga–and located in the proximity of the town’s celebrated spas–next to an ivy-choked creek. The inside, as mentioned above, is magnificent. There is a small (six-stool) outdoor bar for beers and glasses of wine, some 10 of which are uncorked each day. But this is no microbrew pub. Rather, the Napa Valley Brewing Co. is a restaurant with an excellent wine list (ask to see the swoon-over port and dessert wines selection) that just happens to make beer. The long wait at peak hours attests to return customers and happy patrons.

Din: That of an ordinary, creekside restaurant. No rowdy schooner parties here.

Restrooms: The Calistoga Inn, which houses the Napa Valley Brewing Co., is well over 100 years old. At the beginning, bathrooms were a handy modern indoor convenience; suffice it to say these haven’t changed much since then.

Non-drinkers: This country-elegant restaurant offers as much for the abstainer as any other eating establishment.

Fizz
GORGEOUS FOOD, gorgeous setting, excellent wine list, good beer.

Flat
SERVERS who are burned-out on tourists; there is little to tempt children who don’t yet eat with an adult palate.
–G.G.

From the Oct. 16-22, 1997 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Mendocino Brewing Co.

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[ Brewpub Index ]

Mendocino County Brewpub Guide

13351 South Hwy. 101, Hopland
744-1361

Hours: Tavern open Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Friday, 11 a.m. to midnight; and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 2 am. Dinners served Sunday-Thursday until 9 p.m.; Friday-Saturday to 8 p.m.
Credit Cards: VISA, MasterCard; no minimum
Parking: Ample

Beer
EIGHT RECIPES ROTATE. Always at least four handcrafted ales are on tap, plus four fine seasonal brews. Four-ounce samplers are 75 cents each; a taster set runs $3 (a 10-oz. mug is $2; pints are $2.90; a 60-oz. pitcher sells for $8).

These are some of the best-known handmade beers in the North Bay owing to the company’s wide distribution to regional groceries, restaurants, and multi-tap pubs. The Mendocino Brewing Co., founded in 1983, was the first microbrewery in California after Prohibition. The founders–Michael Laybourn, Norman Franks, and John Scahill–were partners at the now-defunct New Albion Brewing Co. of Sonoma, and saw a good thing in the making when the state Legislature legalized the retail sale of beer at breweries with attached restaurants (i.e., brewpubs). The New Albion’s equipment and yeast culture became a part of the Mendocino Brewing Co., so there’s a little bit of Sonoma in each drop.

The Red Tail Ale–a pale, full-bodied amber beer brewed in the traditional Old World style and boasting a fruity nose–is the flagship of the company. The Blue Heron Pale Ale started as a seasonal, golden ale that became a year-round favorite. It has a clean, fresh, hoppy taste that especially complements spicy foods. Other year-round ales include the Black Hawk Stout–rich and malty with a dry-Irish finish–and the Peregrine Pale Ale, a light-bodied blonde brew with a trace of hazelnuts.

Seasonal: Four in number, including the excellent full-bodied Eye of the Hawk Select Ale. And how can you resist a blend called the Frolic Shipwreck Ale, an earthy Scottish brew?

Brewmaster: Don Barkley.

Take-out/Keg Availability: None.

Food
QUINTESSENTIAL PUB FARE: fresh, simple, and low-cost. Specialties include home-style cooking, spicy beer sausages, two-fisted hamburgers, the infamous Red Tail chili, oyster shots with fresh ales, and vegetarian dishes. The brewery black bean nachos ($5.95) are a zesty starter packed with black beans, chilies, and cheddar and jack cheeses melted over tortilla chips with salsa, sour cream, and guacamole. There are a wide variety of soups, chilies, sandwiches (including a delicious herbed cream cheese and veggie sandwich at $5.25), pizzas, and salads. The menu’s main events are a selection of sandwich items served with homemade potato salad and Red Tail barbecued beans. Recommended: the grilled rib-eye steak ($6.75) marinated in Black Hawk Stout and served with sautéed peppers and onions on a French roll.

Service
FRIENDLY AND ATTENTIVE. These folks take obvious pride in everything they do.

Ambiance
THINK OF Cheers with handcrafted beers and a laid-back, unpretentious, North Coast-hippie hideaway feel. Sidle up to the roomy bar with the locals or kick back with a cold pint under a sprawling grape arbor in the shaded beer garden, where you can tap your toes to a bluegrass band on Sunday afternoons (weather permitting)–the perfect way to smooth out the edge after a strenuous North Coast trek. Unhurried. Unhassled. Also, top Bay Area blues acts–including Roy Rogers, Norton Buffalo, and Little Charlie and the Night Cats–perform every Saturday night (cover charge varies); open-mike night every other Friday night. A welcome way station on the road of life. There is a large sandbox here to occupy the kids in the beer-garden area, and kid-friendly menu items (including quesadillas, burgers, and turkey sandwiches) are available. The staff is always accommodating.

Din: Comfortable. Quiet.

Restrooms: Clean, tidy.

Non-drinkers: Mineral waters. Sodas. Juice drinks. Great outdoors; great music.

Fizz
WARM, FRIENDLY PLACE with lusty, cold brews and tasty, inexpensive food. Who could ask for more from a brew pub?

Flat
AIN’T complainin’.
–G.C.

From the Oct. 16-22, 1997 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Willow Street

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[ Brewpub Index ]

Marin County Brewpub Guide

812 Fourth St., San Rafael
Restaurant: 415/453-4200
Brewery: 415/457-9167

Hours: Daily, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; weekends until 11 p.m.
Credit Cards: Visa, MasterCard, American Express
Parking: Limited parking in rear

Beer
WHEN WILLOW ST. PIZZA–an upscale Northern California chain originating in San Jose–took over the former site of the struggling Pacific Tap & Grill brewpub, the brewery part of the operation was thankfully retained. Now the food is as good as the beer, and the beer–still handmade by Pacific Brewing’s craftsmanlike brewers–is something special indeed.

Across the board, these are rich, zesty creations, full of complicated toasty flavors that are just dry enough and bitter enough to separate them from the sweeter frou-frou concoctions put out by many boutique breweries. I tried a sampler, displaying their four featured flavors in 4-oz. shots ($1 each). On the light end is Riley’s Wheat, a clear, refreshing brew that goes down easy and has a surprisingly hefty finish. The Brewberry Ale, far less desserty than many fruit-based beers, has a lively kick and a robust balance of flavors. The Pacific Gold, creamy and smooth, and the Boot Jack Amber, biting and spicy, are both excellent, and the Black Point Porter is dark and rich, full of tangy, malty flavor.

Seasonal: The fall offering is a Nut Brown Ale, a heady, meaty, creamy invention that instantly made me think of rustic Elizabethans on holiday from the fields. A holiday brew is on its way.

Brewmaster: Jeff Held.

Take-out/Keg Availability: Bottling should begin next year. In the meantime, you can take Pacific Brewing’s delights home in half-gallon “growlers” for $10.95, with refills priced at $7.95; 5-gallon kegs are available as well for $40.

Food
FROM THE MOMENT the appetizers arrived, I knew we were in the hands of folks who were having fun in the kitchen. Each dish is a playful reinvention of some time-honored classic, with inspired, sometimes whimsical twists on the expected. The flat bread ($4.50), a puffy round of bread covered in melted Parmesan and brie, was marvelously tangy and laden with just the right amount of garlic and thyme. The Southwest rock shrimp cakes ($5.95) were another delight, lightly pan-fried wonders packed with fresh Gulf rock shrimp, red peppers, and sweet corn: spicy and delicious. The menu features numerous pasta dishes. I liked the rosemary chicken fusilli ($8.95), a light tasty dish of corkscrew noodles and tender chicken nuggets, mixed with olives, green onions, tomatoes, and garlic.

The main event was Willow Street’s enormous rotisserie chicken pizza wrap ($9.50), a rich brown pocket overflowing with morsels of delicious chicken, roasted garlic cream, mozzarella cheese, peas, red peppers, onions, and fresh broccoli. Served with rosemary gravy, it was a mouth-watering homage to the four food groups. A long list of wood-fired pizzas presented a chooser’s challenge. We ended up selecting an artichoke and pesto pizza ($9.50), a flavorful herb-seasoned medley of artichokes, tomatoes, red onions, and roasted garlic on a perfectly baked, just slightly crunchy crust.

Service
A BIT TENTATIVE, but generally eager to please. Since the brewery and the restaurant are operated by different folks, the restaurant crew is not always able to answer questions about the beer.

Ambiance
THE MAIN DINING AREA is a spacious and airy room, with decor that is a combination of gleaming high-tech–the polished tanks of the brewing operation, behind glass, run nearly the full length of the dining room–and B-movie Hollywood. Check out the collection of little-known 1950s movie posters and the nifty display of antique toy trucks on view above the bar. Sliding glass doors open up in front for warm evenings, and a large, tree-lined, light-filled patio in the back is a relaxing place to sip beer and eat well.

Din: Casual but upscale, the overall atmosphere is elegant and classy, with weekend nights becoming slightly rowdier as live bands entertain.

Restrooms: Nothing fancy, but impeccably clean.

Non-drinkers: There is no pressure here to sip suds; a generous list of the usual substitutes, and a decent selection of wines, give plenty of alternatives.

Fizz
THE FOOD (especially the flat bread and pizza wrap), all of the beers, the pleasant patio.

Flat
SERVERS still not fully knowledgable about the brewery operation.
–D.T.

From the Oct. 16-22, 1997 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Bear Republic Brewing Co.

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[ Brewpub Index ]

Sonoma County Brewpub Guide


Janet Orsi

On Tap: Healdsburg’s Bear Republic Brewing Company is one of the newest brewpubs.

Bear Republic Brewing Company
345 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg
433-BEER

Hours: (kitchen hours; bar stays open later) Sunday-Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday-Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.
Credit Cards: VISA, MasterCard
Parking: Ample in city lot behind building

Beer
I HAVEN’T BEEN DRINKING beer long or hard enough to feel comfortable around it, but Bear Republic’s selection put me at my ease after a few sips. Their cream ale is perfect for a warm day when something with more kick and less pulp than lemonade is called for, while the Scottish-type Red Rocket Ale left a smoky afterburn that was curiously agreeable. The favorite at our table was the Hefe Weizen, a cloudy summer brew that is, in spite of the inexplicable crown of lemon, the anti-Corona: rich, wheaty, and faintly fruity. Our menu called it “banana and clove,” but I think there’s more to it than that. The sampler menu is a deal: 3-oz. servings for 50 cents.

Seasonal: Look for a few seasonal brews during the next few months, including the “Big Bear,” a real brute of a stout containing 8.6 percent alcohol, and a holiday spice brew promising touches of cinnamon and mace (that’s the spice, not the spray).

Take-out/Keg Availability: Premium cask-conditioned ale and special guest brews from other establishments are available, and all except the latter can be taken out by the 1-gallon ($16) and 5-gallon ($46) container, and by the half-barrel ($120).

Brewmaster: Richard Norgrove.

Food
TO WARM OUR FINGERS between sampler glasses, we opted for the garlic cheese fries ($3.50) and shrimp pot stickers with cilantro pesto ($5.25). The fries were good and garlicky, but the pot stickers were a disappointment. Their beautiful crust concealed a pasty orange filling–carrot?–with a sneaky chili afterbite that almost completely obliterated the already scant texture and flavor of canned brine shrimp. The pesto was a murky green oil bath seething with the memory of more chilies; the bits of cilantro at the bottom of the cup never stood a chance. After these two pungent starters, my mouth begged for milk, not beer.

When it came to entrées, the basic items shone: The hearty Oktoberfest sausage dinner ($10.75), for example, was stellar, with sautéed cabbage that melted in the mouth. But when the nouvelle crept in–as in the potstickers or the Press, a bland chicken and bacon sandwich with a brie and caramelized onion base ($7.25)–it disappointed. Beet and chicken shepherd’s pie ($7.75)? I think not.

Service
THE SPOTTY MENU was mostly redeemed by great service. Our server was able to answer our many questions, delivered our food quickly, and managed to check in with us at least twice more during the course of our visit, in spite of ever-thickening crowds around the tables.

Ambiance
BEAR REPUBLIC has a spacious and easygoing decor, combining bike shirts and a boldly incongruous mural with industrial pipes and a casually elegant outdoor patio.

Din: The hubbub of talking creates the best ambiance, and Bear Republic sparkles in that respect: People seemed happy to be there together. If you like it louder, try a little later on some Saturday nights, when there’s a great lineup of music ranging from blues to reggae.

Restrooms: If the water sounds from a nearby fountain affect you in a certain way, you may run into trouble with the one-per-gender restroom availability. Fortunately, the restrooms are clean, serene, and entirely lacking in bubble gum-scented disinfectant. The women’s room even has a changing table, one of many clues that the place is family-friendly.

Non-drinkers: There are some wines and hard ciders to be had, while the completely abstemious might want to give the homemade sodas a shot. The cream soda is particularly recommended.

Fizz
SERVICE, beer, more basic menu items.

Flat
TURN DOWN the heat and the haute cuisine!
–M.W.

From the Oct. 16-22, 1997 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Third Street Aleworks

0

[ Brewpub Index ]

Sonoma County Brewpub Guide

610 Third St., Santa Rosa
523-3060

Hours: Daily, from 11:30 a.m. until midnight; later on weekends (food is served until 10).
Credit Cards: VISA, MasterCard
Parking: Ample in city lot across the street

Beer
ONCE INSIDE this postmodern industrial establishment, you’ll find something for every taste. Start with the Annadel Pale Ale, which is light, apricoty, and crisp. Or choose the Yankee Best Bitter (the name says it all), which offers a zesty British-style beer, rich in English malts. The Goat Rock Rye, plugged as light and smooth, disappointed us, tasting bitter and stale. On the other hand, the American Wheat (filtered or unfiltered) proved light and clean, while the American Dark Wheat had a nice aftertaste, not bitter, with good texture–thick and flavorful. The London Porter, which had a dull color of old dishwater and no head, also let us down. Still, my companion drank all of these without hesitation, and licked her lips, too. A 10-oz. glass runs $2.25; a pint is $2.75-$3; pitchers are $9-$9.50 (specialty beers are priced slightly higher). The sampler menu is recommended: 4-oz. servings for 75 cents each.

Seasonal: Fruity beers like the Blackberry Wheat and the high-octane Old Railroad Square Barley Wheat, and the tempting Cask Conditioned Real Ale (a cellared brew using the traditional English methods and served at cellar temperature).

Brewmaster: Grant Johnston.

Take-out/Keg Availability: 1-gallon ($14; $11 refills) and 5-gallon ($40-$45) containers.

Food
APPETIZERS RANGE from spicy buffalo wings and firehouse jambalaya to hush puppies (deep-fried spicy potato balls) with a potent Creole tomato sauce and the ever-popular Parmesan garlic fries. Organic green garden salad ($5.25) features (true to form) fancy local organic greens and a big ole honkin’ side of gorgonzola that complements the dried currants, all splashed with a delicious, spicy balsamic vinegar-based dressing that goes well with beer. The curried chicken-salad sandwich in a pita wrap ($5.95) is a great break from your usual pub fare. Savory pizzas–for one ($5.75-$6.25) or for two ($9.25-$9.95)–feature such tasty toppings as grilled chicken, Kalamata olives, and spicy sausages (there’s also a no-cheese vegetarian pizza). The beer-battered fish and chips are firm and fresh (try substituting mashed potatoes and gravy)–a solid standby. There always are a half dozen well-prepared specials on the board. Kid-friendly dishes available.

Service
UNEVEN at best.

Ambiance
ON WEEKEND NIGHTS, when the sound of live rock bands reverberates on the metal walls and ceiling, young office workers pour out of their workaday Santa Rosa digs and give this the aura of a boisterous but genteel frat party that would fit in perfectly near the UC Davis campus. Lunchtimes are quieter, though not necessarily on weekends. The outdoor patio offers a welcome, sun-drenched escape from the daily grind. Overall, the posters of vintage beer labels and the sports memorabilia contribute to the aforementioned college pub atmosphere, providing few distractions from the business at hand: the enjoyment of cold beers, warm company, and good conversation. Close proximity (a few yards) to a United Artist Theater spells super convenience for those seeking a quick bite and a flick.

Din: Quiet in the day; boisterous at night.

Restrooms: Immaculate.

Non-drinkers: Lots of options, from lemonade and soft drinks to teas and mineral waters.

Fizz
SOME FINE BREWS and a relaxed atmosphere.

Flat
BETTER SERVICE would complement an otherwise charming dining experience.
–G.C.

From the Oct. 16-22, 1997 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Powerhouse Brewing Co.

0

[ Brewpub Index ]

Sonoma County Brewpub Guide


Janet Orsi

Corner Bar: Powerhouse Brewing Company owners Kathy Weir and Bill Bradt.

Powerhouse Brewing Company
268 Petaluma Ave. (Hwy. 116), Sebastopol
829-9171

Hours: Tuesday, 5 to 10 p.m.; Wednesday-Saturday, and Sunday, from noon; closed Monday (closing times vary depending on the live music and live bodies)
Credit Cards: All save Discovery and Diner’s Club
Parking: Ample

Beer
SIX BEERS–the Blonde Ale, the Wheat Ale, the Extra Special Bitter, the India Pale Ale, the Stout, and the Powerhouse Ale–are elegantly presented in the 4-oz. sampler serving at an extremely reasonably price (sampler set is $2.50; individual pints are $3, glasses, $1.75). There wasn’t one that wasn’t delicious, though the Wheat, India Pale, and Powerhouse ales were superb.

Seasonal: Wheat Ale, Porter (they are currently pouring Stout), Nut Brown Ale, and Winter Ale.

Brewmaster: Donald Thornton.

Take-out/Keg Availability: Full keg, $134; half-keg, $75; 5-gallon keg, $48.

Food
FIVE OF US sat out on Powerhouse’s wide, wrap-around porch on a recent warm evening, consuming the beer-batter onion rings with garlic aioli ($4.50): hot, thick wedges of almost tempura-style, deep-fried onion with a delicious garlicky dipping sauce; gone in a flash, the kids fighting–oh so politely–over the last bits. The traditional “Buffalo style” chicken wings ($6.95) fared less well, primarily because we weren’t a spicy group, and the hot sauce coating the meat was more than our poor mouths could bear, even at low wattage. However, the wings themselves were plump and meaty. And greasy–a designation the onion rings shared. It was a 10-napkin night.

The mixed green salad ($4.25) was restrainedly dressed with a house-made viniagrette on top of fresh Sonoma greens. Main courses included the Powerhouse hamburger ($6.95), which was pronounced “perfectly cooked” by the eatee–a professional chef–and came with a cup of tomato-basil soup that tasted less like soup than like an excellent pasta sauce. When the burger-eater mistakenly thought that he would get fries and soup in what is actually an either/or deal, the sweet Scottish server brought him hot, salty, crisp, thin, homemade french fries gratis.

The 9-year-old sat happily before his fettuccine with chicken ($10.95), a plate large enough to sate him and feed three others the next night. Served with large chunks of chicken breast on fresh pasta in a tarragon-infused cream sauce full of shallots, this was better than traditional pub fare. Fish and chips ($7.95) were double-ordered by two souls who almost refused to share. Again–greasy, but delicious. For dessert, we groaningly shared a sinfully thick and light coffee-flavored cheesecake ($4.50), made in-house.

Service
SERVICE WAS EXCELLENT: Our waiter never pretended not to see us (a trick I once perfected on the floor), and other servers filled in as needed so that drink orders and hot plates didn’t sit. In charge of note-taking, the 9-year-old made this notation: “The waiter isn’t sulky.” Indeed.

Ambiance
THE POWERHOUSE is the county’s New Orleans in drastic miniature, with terrific Cajun-themed music shows almost monthly, and the decorations support this. Framed Mardi Gras costumes and sequined stuff dominate the dining room, as does a graceful mellow-wooded bar. Full of regulars on a Wednesday night, the place was dimly lit, thoughtfully soundtracked, and extremely inviting.

Din: Quiet midweek; check their music calendar before scheduling a romantic evening à deux on the night of a concert.

Restrooms: The women’s room was large, clean, and roomy. The lipstick light was middling, as the bulbs cast that yellowish, it-can’t-be-me shroud upon the skin.

Non-drinkers: The sober set has a wide variety of juices, sodas, espresso drinks, and fancy waters to choose from, and the setting is more restaurant than bar.

Fizz
CHEW, BREW, SERVICE, ambiance, restrooms. Great place!

Flat
SOME OVERLY GREASY (but very good) grub.
–G.G.

From the Oct. 16-22, 1997 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Dempsey’s Restaurant & Brewery

0

[ Brewpub Index ]

Sonoma County Brewpub Guide

Golden Eagle Shopping Center
50 E. Washington St., Petaluma
765-9694

Hours: Open daily at 11:30 a.m.; Friday-Saturday to 10 p.m.; Sunday-Monday to 9 p.m.; Tuesday-Thursday to 9:30 p.m.
Credit Cards: VISA, MasterCard; no minimum
Parking: Ample, either on Water Street or in Golden Eagle Center

Beer
TEN RECIPES ROTATE. Always five handcrafted, award-winning selections on tap. Three-ounce samplers are 70 cents each (pints are $3; specialty beers may be higher). The Red Rooster Ale–a smooth-flavored, medium-bodied ale–is particularly distinctive. It aims for a good balance between big malt and hop flavors, and hits the target right on its foamy head. While the other beers on tap–including the popular Mountain Wheat and Ugly Dog Stout–aren’t as standout as their cocky cousin, there are no disappointments here (though all of the beers could be served colder).

Seasonal: Barley wine in the fall and winter months.

Brewmaster: Peter Burrell.

Take-out/Keg Availability: Three-($32); five-($43); and 15-gallon kegs ($107.50) are sold under the Sonoma Brewing Co. label.

Food
DEMPSEY’S COMFORT FOOD is a standout when it comes to creative culinary dishes. This is not just Petaluma’s only brewpub, but also one of the city’s best eateries. The accent clearly is on dining, and though the menu is sparse, it also is well planned, featuring a wide variety of innovative specials.

Appetizers include thinly sliced, battered bermuda onion rings ($3.50), sweet and delicious. The caesar salad is exceptional–deemed “exactly what it should be” by one supremely critical dining companion–and at $2 a half-portion, a low-priced meal unto itself. The garden salad ($3.95) is a bouquet of local mixed greens. The soup of the day ($2.95 a bowl) can be quite good: The carrot mustard tried recently was a bit oily but subtly flavored, while the vegetable soup provided a delightful sunburst of garden flavors. Sure to spoil you, the heavenly thick-cut pork chop with garlicky mashed potatoes and sautéed veggies ($11.50) is highly recommended. The dry-rub chicken ($11.95)–a tender, juicy breast topped with spicy peach compote and served with mixed greens–is absolutely mouthwatering.

The desserts are well worth a try. An impressive wine list offers many vintages served by the glass. Innovative and topnotch, this is not your father’s pub food.

Service
INCONSISTENT–the only real complaint about an otherwise charming restaurant.

Ambiance
CASUAL wine country decor adorned by wrought-iron vines and hops sheaths (yes, there is the obligatory wooden racing shell suspended from the ceiling–seemingly a fixture in every brewpub); and vintage black-and-white photos grace an airy, spacious dining room dominated by an elegant, 1930s art deco-style mahogany bar. Outdoor dining on the riverfront is also available.

Din: Lotsa loud conversation interspersed by sometimes too adventurous bebop jazz recordings–soul jazz needed here. But overall, not unlike being at a comfortable dinner party in your own house.

Restrooms: Clean, tidy, good mirrors.

Non-drinkers: Wide selection of non-alcoholic beverages, including excellent homemade root beer (with a strong licorice aftertaste), iced teas, mineral waters, and commercial non-alcoholic beer. Plus, there’s plenty on the menu–including great burgers–to keep kids happy.

Fizz
OUTDOOR DINING along the Petaluma River makes for a most relaxing way to pass Indian summer nights while taking in the local color.

Flat
SPOTTY service.
–G.C.

From the Oct. 16-22, 1997 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

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