‘It’s a Wonderful Life’

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Christmas king Christopher Radko weighs in on tolerance, the Devil, and ‘It’s a Wonderful Life’

Writer David Templeton takes interesting people to interesting movies in his ongoing quest for the ultimate post-film conversation. This column is not a review; rather, it’s a freewheeling, tangential discussion of life, alternative ideas, and popular culture.

Christopher Radko is surprised. He’s just learned that his favorite Christmas movie–Frank Capra’s It’s a Wonderful Life–has been the subject of some derision over the last several years.

For a while there, it was actually impossible to channel-surf at Christmastime without running across the tortured face of George Bailey (played by Jimmy Stewart, of course) running frantically through the streets of Bedford Falls, or standing on that windy bridge preparing to end what he thinks is his worthless life–just before Clarence the angel arrives to show George just how much he’s really worth. For whatever reason, it’s hard to find more than a small handful of folks who’ll now admit, in public, that IAWL is a film they like.

But Radko is one of them.

“Not only is It’s a Wonderful Life my favorite Christmas movie,” he says, boldly, clearly taken aback that anyone might cast a cynical eye toward what many people believe to be a rich and dark and philosophically satisfying a film. “It’s one of my favorite movies, period.”

Radko is a former New York mailroom clerk turned high-profile designer of mouth-blown, European-made glass Christmas ornaments, so he spends a lot of time thinking about Christmas. Christmas is Radko’s holiday in the same way Halloween is Elvira’s holiday. Since 1986, he’s designed over 500 gorgeously detailed ornaments, selling several million of them throughout the world. His work–averaging about $38 per ornament–is sought after by Hollywood players and the Washington elite. He’s been asked to personally decorate the White House. His new book, Christopher Radko’s Ornaments (Clarkson Potter), is a certified bestseller.

Yet the suddenly wealthy Radko, 39, remains remarkably boyish, shy, and guileless. In person, he seems less like a “Czar of Christmas Present”–as the New York Times has proclaimed him–and more like a New Age philosopher/poet.

One whose expertise is Christmas.

“I like the message of It’s a Wonderful Life,” he says. “First of all, I always like movies with Christmas trees in them.” Laughing, he mentions that the film ends with a shot of an ornament on a Christmas tree. “I like that, of course.

“But gosh . . . I think that the movie helps us see that you don’t have to be a millionaire, or do something world-reaching, in order to make a difference,” he continues. “You can change the world from your own backyard, in your own hometown.

“I also think the movie shows us that it’s not just the things you do on Christmas Day–you know, the gifts you give people, the shopping, the decorating–but it’s the heart-centered things you do all year long that really make difference. That for me is the spirit of Christmas.”

He cites the film’s ending, when the townspeople fill the house to return the favors George has been reluctantly, but freely, distributing his entire life, and his brother raises the toast, “To George. The richest man in town.”

“They don’t mean rich in dollars,” Radko says. “They mean that he has all those friends, he’s got their love. Because of his inherent kindness, he’s captured the hearts of all the people of Bedford Falls.”

It’s a scene that has been known to make grown men cry.

“Being recognized for your heart-connection to people is a very moving experience,” offers Radko, “but it’s something that our society does not promote. We measure people by their looks, by their bank accounts, by their power; we judge them by their religion, or their political affiliation–but we don’t often measure people by their hearts. And that’s a shame.

“I spend a lot of time in Europe, where I see a lot of religious art,” Radko says. “And I’ve always been interested in archangels, and the way they’re depicted in art. Traditionally, in Europe, the archangel Michael is seen holding his fiery sword, dressed in some kind of Roman soldier’s outfit, standing on the head of a dragon.” The dragon, of course, being the Devil. In fact, Michael–according to scripture–is the angel who led the battle against Satan and the rebel angels, and who forced the devil into the pit of Hell. “So these paintings are supposed to symbolize the triumph of good over evil,” Radko continues, “of throwing the Devil into submission. I always thought those images were curious.”

Back home, he commissioned an Arizona artist to create a new painting of Michael.

“What she did was, she had the archangel Michael, with his sword sheathed in his scabbard, actually leaning over and helping Satan up out of the depths of Hell–and back into the light,” Radko says. “I am really touched by the symbolism of that image. I think that’s a strong, important image for us to hold, because as long as we exist in the realm of separateness and division, of good and bad, ‘you’re on that side of the line and I’m on this side of the line,’ we humans are never going to become united as one. We have to stop labeling each other, constantly pushing people away, saying, out of elitism–or because your religion says that’s the way it has to be–‘You are different. You are wrong.’

“Because that idea is in need of a little evolution. So you say, ‘You know what? Maybe we need to try and extend and open hand, and open heart to that which we’ve shut away from us.’ I think that’s when the healing will be in our future as human beings. That’s when the true spirit of Christmas will exist on Earth, every day of the year.”

From the December 23-29, 1999 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Stocking Stuffers

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Stuffer Stalking

Quick, cheap–but oh-so-thoughtful–last-minute stocking stuffers

By Yosha Bourgea and David Templeton

WORK 12 long months, and what do you get? Another darned Christmas and deeper in debt. As you back the forklift through the living room, depositing another stack of gaily wrapped hibachis and Thighmasters under the towering tree, you can pause for a moment to anticipate the annual blessings of late afternoon, Dec. 25: a blizzard of torn wrapping paper and dry pine needles, an envelope from the credit card company that you’d really rather not open, and–of course–lots and lots of things.

Now where to put them all?

This year, in hopes of a less stressful holiday, maybe you’re sticking to stockings. If you’re not quite ascetic enough to do away with gifts altogether, but, faced with a tighter-than-usual budget and a house already crammed to the rafters, just keep it small and simple.

A stocking is really the best gift-giving medium anyway. For a few weeks, it hangs demurely from the mantel (freeing up floor space). On the big day, it bulges with a cornucopia of surprises, echoing the big sack that a certain Arctic philanthropist is known to carry on his sleigh.

Stocking Stuffer Themes

Environmentally conscious revelers will note that a stocking serves as reusable wrapping paper for its contents.

And a stocking is more likely to contain chocolate and less likely to contain exercise equipment. (Who wants practical gifts anyway?) Stuffers don’t come with instructions or require assembly. They don’t need to be fancy or awe-inspiring, just fun. And after all, isn’t that what the holiday season is supposed to be? As the adage has it, the best things often come in small packages.

Here are few suggestions:

Cuppa Love

IT’S SMALL. It’s cheap. It’s kinda festive looking. That little mesh tea infuser–one that looks like the planet Saturn on a chain–not only makes nifty inexpensive stocking fodder (most of them run for under two bucks, found in most kitchen supply stores or coffee-and-tea shops); with a piece of candy inside, it also makes a dandy ornament for the tree.

Twisted Xmas

SOME TWISTED individual, whom we’ve so far been unable to identify, decided that riding in a New York taxicab was an experience that deserved some kind of sweet commemoration. Thus do various quirky gift shops (and Noah’s Bagels in Petaluma) now offer New York Traffic Treats (Wildwest Products Inc.), little stocking-sized boxes of taxi-shaped cookies. Good for snacking or playtime fun. (You talkin’ to me?!)

Chocolate Alert!

McSTEVEN’S Christmas Cocoas were literally made for stocking duty. Attractively decorated, fist-sized cans contain a variety of whimsical flavored instant cocoas, from Candy Cane to Eggnog. Available at various gourmet food shops (including Petaluma Market), they cost around two bucks a can, and–if you line up all half-dozen varieties side by side–the can covers reveal a magical illustrated panorama.

Brewski

THE AVERAGE stocking stuffer runs around three bucks. The average bottle of really good microbrew beer is slightly less than that. So beer, quite obviously, is a stocking stuffer made in heaven. We suggest a spicy Christmas Brew such as the ever-popular Winterhook Ale, or the Oregon-brewed Bobby Dawzler Christmas Ale (“Perfect for fireside sipping”), or Rogue Ale’s “Santa’s Private Reserve,” with a nice picture of a beer-swiggin’ Santa right on the oversized brown bottle.

String Thing

THE COOL THING about a yo-yo is . . . well, it’s difficult to establish exactly what it is about the gravity-defying gizmo that so enthralls children–and a smattering of enlightened adults, including, but not limited to, Tommy Smothers. Stocking stuffer classics for decades, yo-yos are readily available, and Toyworks (in Santa Rosa, Healdsburg, and Sebastopol) boasts an enormous number of different yo-yos, priced from $2.95 to up in the $40 range.

Dog Days

FORGET BEANIES. Ever since it was decided they’d be worth something someday, those once adorable little critters have grown too big for their don’t-play-with-me-I’m-a-collectible britches. The hot stocking stuffer this year is Olive, the Other “Reindeer,” the canine star of the best-selling children’s book by j. otto seibold & Vivien Walsh, now brought to hand-held life in a charming toy version that runs around $7.95. Commonly available in bookstores.

Smart Idea

QUICK! Who said this? “That it will never come again is what makes life so sweet.” If you said Emily Dickinson, either you’re really smart or someone’s already given you an E. Dickinson Novel-Key. Whimsical and literary, these inventive pewter key chains–perfect for stocking stuffers at $5.25 apiece–are shaped like tiny open books, inscribed on one side with the name of a famous author (Shakespeare, J.R.R. Tolkien, Rudyard Kipling, Agatha Christie, John Steinbeck, etc.), and with a quote from the author in question on the flip side, such as, “Fish and visitors smell in three days.” Now who said that? Available at Copperfield’s bookstores.

Pagan Art

FOR THOUSANDS of years, the image of the spiral has held deep spiritual significance in many pagan cultures, embodying the endless path of life and the spirit. The spiral also makes a structurally perfect paper clip. Clipiola, the clever, cool-looking spiral paper clip from Italy, is now available in round, stocking stuffer-sized metal boxes. Copperfield’s Books and Ideal Stationers sell them for $5.99. Give one to the paper-pushing pagan in your life.

Good ‘n’ Goofy

KITCHEN supplies are perfect stocking stuffers. From spatulas to whisks, to egg timers to potato peelers, the things just have a knack for looking shiny and fitting well in a stocking. For an extra touch of whimsy, try tossing in a giraffe-shaped sink brush. Available at Lechters Housewares in Santa Rosa, these remarkably goofy kitchen helpers, good for scrubbing sinks or dishes, have a bright, plastic giraffe handle and brush that rests in a nifty Savannah-like dish.

Cash Cure

ASSUMING your mantel can handle the weight, a big stocking full of silver dollars would always be appreciated. If you’d rather hand over the cash in a slightly cleverer manner, try this: Buy a little box of empty gelatin pill capsules from your neighborhood pharmacist. Get large ones. Separate the halves. Choose bills of whatever denomination you’re willing to part with, roll them up very tightly, and squeeze them into a capsule, one bill per pill, of course. A pill bottle full of “money medicine” will be a welcome–and weird–stocking stuffer.

From the December 23-29, 1999 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

A Christmas Story

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Fire & Ice

Snowball in Hell: A Christmas Story

At 11:15 on the West Coast of Heaven, just before midnight on a clear Christmas Eve, one tiny angel–with her halo in her pocket and her wings folded down–was silently sneaking from Angel Town.

Snowball (her name) was the semi-youngest but rather the sweetest of all the young angels in Angel School. She was talented too, for an angel so young. Snowball, who with only a flick of her wings, could turn rocks to rhinos, and clouds into string, was really a kind- of-a sort-of-a whiz at miracles and wonders and all that other angel biz.

But, as she’d tell you, with knowledge empirical, in Heaven, you know, everything is a miracle. Wonders are given out free twice a day, as they say. So in spite of her spit-and-polish miracle skill, Snowball’s wonders and marvels were . . . well . . . run-of-the-mill.

“Oh my” and “Oh dear,” the angel thought. “I’ve simply got to get out of here.”

With a smile, she added, “Even just for a little while,” and she sneakily snuck from her five-rung bungalow, choosing late Christmas Eve, a time of sweet celebration, for the date of her little angelic vacation.

The copper-pennied streets were empty. The old Pearly Gates stood optimistically ajar, as most of Heaven’s older host were off on holiday, visiting dusty old Earth in their annual way, with harps and hymns played in the air, and occasional miracles, here and there. For Earth was quite dingy, as everyone knows, and often needs the touch of angel toes.

So nobody noticed as Snowball fluttered right to the buttery edge of Heaven, and, with a clear swan dive that shredded the sky, she leaped, crying, “Heaven, for now, goodbye!”

Setting her course, unsteadily so, toward Earth, where she’d long longed to go, she laughed, 100 percent elated, as down through eternity Snowball skated. “I’ll be back in half a flash,” the little tumbling angel mumbled, earnestly adding, “Though Heaven’s highly rated, I really just want to be appreciated.”

Spinning and spiraling, cartwheeling and careening, through countless uncounted universes, Snowball plummeted. Rocketing past sun after sun, the little angel closed her eyes and–surprise! surprise! Tingling with mirth, Snowball–not noticing–fell right past Earth. Then, slowing, slowing, her eyes finally wide, Snowball saw–as she slowed to a glide, shaking her head–a glimmering world rising up, up ahead.

Not long after, with the grace of a gazelle, she made a perfect three-point landing in the middle of Hell.

“Ha!” Snowball shouted, skipping about. “Wow!” she sang out with an additional shout, as geysers of steam and alkali erupted dramatically, blasting the sky. She heard brass bells clanging from somewhere beneath, and the clear sound of wailing and gnashing of teeth. Frogs, in the thousands, were singing in Greek. Big gray buses zoomed by with a shriek. Overhead, flying horses–looking terribly thin–were ridden by men chasing cows out and in, as nearby a gentleman, looking quite ill, was pushing a boulder, with effort, uphill. Another fellow, not too far away–looking hungry and thirsty, in no mood to play–was perched in warm water, right up to his knees, surrounded by menacing apple trees.

Everywhere someone was sad or dejected, but Snowball stood happily, quite unaffected, sighing, “Earth needs me more than I ever expected.”

Sliding the halo from her pocket, she placed it onto her angel brow. Then, leaping up lightly from her nice landing spot, she thought, “I only wish that it weren’t so hot!”

She eyed the rock-pushing man on the hill. He shoved his stony burden almost to the top, she observed, and made a little “Yip!” as he lost his grip, and wearing a frown, watched the rock slipping back all the way down.

“Oh!” the man muttered, and “Drat!” and “Hey!” and “That must be the 50th time today.” And suddenly, there in front of his nose, an amazing miraculous vision arose. Snowball, all wrapped in a ribbon of light, smiling with a certain non-hellish delight, crying, “Ho! Happy Christmas. Good tidings I bring,” and then, and then, with a flap of her feathers, she pointed out, “Look!” for on top of the rock there had sprouted . . . one wing.

And then another.

Amazed, the man watched, thrilled and empty-handed, as the rock flew up to the top of the hill, where it landed.

“Take a break,” she suggested, quite wisely. “It’s Christmas Day, for goodness sake,” and next, the angel turned her attention to the subject of her next little intervention.

“Happy Christmas,” she sang to the man in the pool. “Is there anything I can do for you?” Baffled and blinking, the poor fellow stammered, “Well, let me think. I wouldn’t mind something to eat and drink. But every time I reach for a snack, the water dries up and the trees all jump back.”

“What a shame!” and “Oh, golly,” did Snowball remark, “that just isn’t right.”

And then, with a spark of remarkable light, Snowball snapped her little fingers. From out of thin air, shimmering with a glimmer of heavenly glint, there appeared in the angel’s hand . . . a mint.

“Open up wide,” cried the angel so young, and placed the sweet upon his tongue.

“Oh my,” the man suggested, and then, and then–as Snowball counted up to 10–as he mouthed the candy, so tiny and small, and felt it melt into nothing at all, he gave a small, “Hmmmmmm,” and then he said, “Hey!,” as all of his hunger and thirst went away. It was gone in a flash, it went out like a light; the sweet had deleted his appetite.

“Merry Christmas,” said Snowball with obvious delight.

The little angel was just warming up. Literally so. “This terrible heat has got to go,” she said. And, blinking two times, crying, “Tallyho!” she caused a heavenly breeze to blow. Then, up from the steaming soil she flew, looking for other good deeds to do, as all across the sulfurous, odoriferous landscape of Hell, the magic breeze touched the brows of all the angel’s clientele.

Now racing as fast as she could fly, she rained down miracles from the sky. A Christmas tree there, and a string of lights here. “Hey, hey!” and ‘Good cheer,” were her welcome refrains, as she flew melting every last one of Hell’s chains.

“Happy Christmas!” she hollered, then, “Yippee ki yi!” as she noticed those ghost riders up in the sky. Like a flash she flew up, and I can’t tell you how, but she helped each cowboy catch his cow.

At last, after all the deeds she could do were done, Snowball smiled. “Gee, that was fun. It’s getting late. It’s time to fly.” Then, up she sailed toward the early dawn sky, as the people of Hell blew her kisses, goodbye.

“Oh!” Snowball shouted, “Before I go, there’s one last thing.”

And it started to snow.

So she blasted to Heaven, where it was still early, and crept past the gates, still open, still pearly. Back at her five-rung bungalow, Snowball took the halo from her head, and crawled into her angel bed.

Then she smiled and sighed, and whispered, “Oh dear. I’ll just have to do that every year.”

From the December 23-29, 1999 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Materialism

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Teaching Material(ism)

By Mieke H. Bomann

AS CORPORATIONS become ever more sophisticated in their marketing techniques to children, critics are calling for increased vigilance in schools, and government officials are starting to pay attention. Arguing that the classroom should be a marketplace of ideas, not of products, many educators and parents protest that advertising has no place in school. The uproar began several years ago with the emergence of Channel One, a 12-minute newscast that is now fed into a reported 12,000 schools in exchange for free video equipment and more recently re-emerged with soft-drink companies offering to place soda machines on campuses at no charge to the school as long as the company gets exclusivity.

Critics lambasted the highly controversial Channel One program because it contained two minutes of ads that under contract cannot be cut out and urged schools to raise money for desired equipment in other ways. Nevertheless, many districts that were strapped for cash went further and began negotiating multimillion-dollar deals with soft-drink manufacturers for exclusive rights to sell their products on campus.

“You’re using persuasive techniques on kids that may not be in their best interests, but the educational system should be working only in the child’s best interest,” says Brita Butler-Wall, co-founder of the Citizens Campaign for Commercial-Free Schools in Seattle.

Now, there’s a growing trend of market researchers conducting focus groups in classrooms, and instruction time is being used to test new products like cereals. Critics are fuming. According to Gary Ruskin, director of Commercial Alert, marketers are “going to extreme measures to gain access” to children and “entering sanctums that were previously off-limits.”

Ruskin and other critics point to two recent marketing techniques that they say are particularly worrisome. ZapMe!, a year-old California company that sparked protests at Kenilworth Junior High School in Petaluma earlier this year when it announced plans to enter public schools there, has outfitted each of 220 middle and high schools with 15 high-end computers and a printer, a satellite dish for fast Internet access, and a compilation of 10,000 educational sites on the Internet (see sidebar, “Classroom Catwalk”).

“Classroom Catwalk”

To access information, student browsers enter their birth date, sex, and ZIP code. The company collects and delivers the market information to advertisers who can customize their ads for a given student. The ads, including ones for Microsoft, which sponsored the system’s software, run across one corner of the screen.

ACCORDING to a company spokesperson, some 6,000 schools are on a waiting list for the equipment. ZapMe! went public last month, selling shares on the New York Stock Exchange. Ruskin views the trend as a betrayal of children’s best interests.

“School used to be a refuge from exploitative commercial influences,” he writes in a recent article for Mothering magazine. “But, increasingly, school officials are violating this trust and turning the schools into cash-and-carry operations for the advertisers and marketers of America.”

Another sticking point for critics is the work of Education Market Resources. A Kansas company, EMR has gone into multiple schools in 90 cities across the country to help corporations test new foodstuffs, to elicit ideas about how best to market a product, and even to get new product ideas from children in preschool through the 12th grade.

In an interview, company president Bob Reynolds drew a firm line between the market research his company does and the tactics used by companies like ZapMe! “There is too much commercialism going on in schools,” he says. “When we work with companies, those schools have no idea whom we’re working for.”

Where it’s required, EMR gets parental permission for children to participate in a focus group. More than 80 percent of parents sign the slips, Reynolds adds. “It’s a life-learning experience for these children,” he explained of parental compliance. “We’re tapping into their creative problem-solving skills.”

The children receive no compensation for their opinions and ideas, but schools may get up to several thousand dollars a year, he added.

It’s the schools that don’t require parental permission that Rep. George Miller, D-Calif., targets with a bill he introduced in Congress in September that would require written permission from all parents before students participate in any market research on campus. It would also mandate that a broad study be conducted of all commercial activity in schools.

Miller is concerned that market research companies are threatening the privacy of students and delivering messages that parents might not want their children to be taught, according to David Madland, a member of Miller’s staff. “There has been very little research on these topics and its growing so fast,” he adds.

For Ruskin, the issue of consumerism goes way beyond the classroom. “The ads teach kids that buying is good and will make them happy,” he notes. “They teach that the solutions to life’s problems lie not in good values, hard work, or education, but in materialism and the purchasing of more and more things.”

DESPITE EFFORTS to combat the deluge of commercialism in schools (see sidebar), marketing to children appears only to be growing. A daylong seminar in Washington, D.C., last month, titled “Selling to Kids University,” boasted a “faculty” who taught advertisers how to “get into the hearts and minds of kids” and reinforce their message by “adding alternative media, such as in-school, online, and direct marketing.”

Ruskin says parents interested in protecting their children from overexposure to advertising should watch less television, throw away video game machines, and avoid movies that promote values they don’t believe in. Get active in politics, he admonishes, start a parents’ group, and kick advertisers out of schools, he added.

The bottom line for schools is to get their money from a source other than commercial activities, says Suzanne Black of the national Parent-Teacher Association. “We would prefer that they would find other funding mechanisms from the local, state, or federal level, so schools wouldn’t have to go with their hand out.”

Mieke H. Bomann is a staff writer for the American News Service.

From the December 23-29, 1999 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Feast

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Something special: Feast owners Heidi Scott McQuarrie and Jesse McQuarrie.

Small Banquet

Feastin’ in a new downtown bistro

By Paula Harris

THE PLACE has been open only a few weeks, but already local ladies hailing from downtown banks, plush offices, and departments of the city of Santa Rosa are gravitating toward Feast, a tiny American bistro located on Old Courthouse Square.

One recent lunchtime, the clientele includes four women (at different tables), all sporting identical short blonde coifs, conservative jackets, and power jewelry as they delicately sip oversized glasses of sauvignon blanc (poured one-third full) and rip into the crusty bread.

The regulars have even staked out their “own” tables and can be heard jokingly bickering among themselves about who’s taken who’s prime spot on that certain tapestry chair next to the window.

Santa Rosa City Councilwoman Sharon Wright and Mayor Janet Condron would look perfectly at home in this setting, perhaps nibbling on a couple of caesar salads and shooting the breeze.

The compact restaurant (it has just 11 tables in one room and two in an adjoining nook, where there’s also a small bar area) is graceful and minimalist while retaining a certain intimate and cozy feel. It occupies the small space that used to house Wolf Coffee Co.’s adjoining tea room. Feast’s owners, Jesse McQuarrie and Heidi Scott McQuarrie, have blocked off the restaurant from the java business next door and have totally transformed the small space into something unique.

The walls are pale celery green and adorned simply with a couple of large paintings, a mirror, and a reproduction of an ancient clock.

Twisted, bent forks–à la psychic prankster Uri Geller–serve as attention-grabbing napkin holders, and there are quirky centerpieces composed of containers of water, twigs, dried leaves, and stones on each table.

Although the restaurant is touted as an American bistro serving American regional cuisine, there’s a certain Japanese sensibility to the decor and a couple of Japan-inspired dishes pop up on the menu. Our server cleared up the puzzle–owner Heidi Scott McQuarrie is part Japanese. Indeed, one dish, Tsugiye salmon ($16.95 at dinner), featuring pan-seared salmon with Japanese rice, sesame spinach, daikon purée, and sweet shoyu sauce, is a family recipe named for her grandmother.

MUCH OF THE REST of the menu is traditional, down-home American fare, like Southern fried-chicken salad, North Carolina barbecued-pork sandwich, surf and turf, and oyster po’boy with Uncle Jesse’s tartar sauce.

Dungeness crabcakes ($7.95 at lunch) are warm with a firm-flaky texture, and napped in very fresh-tasting lemon cream sauce. These perfect cakes sit on a bed of shredded romaine lettuce and diced tomato with a touch of serrano chili aioli on the side. Lovely.

The generous and fresh caesar salad ($6.50), featuring a roasted-garlic dressing, asiago cheese, and herb croutons, derives its assertive flavor from the cheese rather than from any detectable anchovies in the dressing.

A plump, juicy, oven-roasted breast of chicken ($12) in a whispery light batter coating comes with silky-‘n’-sloppy cheddar cheese grits, salty braised mustard greens, and “tobacco” sauce (a rich smoky gravy made with onions and a touch of chili spice). The dish is topped with one perfect onion ring.

The lamb meatloaf ($11.50), made with local lamb, has a pleasing intense flavor with a slight cinnamon spice tinge. It comes with garlic mashed potatoes, cremini mushroom gravy, baby carrots, and squash. Comforting yet slightly exotic.

Although the Redwood Hill Farms goat cheese ice cream also sounds interesting, the only dessert we can manage this visit is the sweet potato pie ($5)–a yummy concoction topped with brandy-orange whipped cream.

By night, Feast becomes a quieter, less businesslike and more romantic place, especially now with the view of all those twinkling white lights around Old Courthouse Square. Another plus: the ugly, concrete-bordered, tired plaza itself is less noticeable in the dark.

However, the food is a bit more hit-and-miss this night. A rotating appetizer trio ($12.95) features a single smoked oyster wrapped in spinach with tongue-searing wasabi sauce; a miniature Dungeness crabcake; and one slice of grilled pistachio bread smeared with rich duck paté and port-soaked cherries. The strongly opposing flavors of the oyster and the duck paté do not thrill us. And the price is way too steep for the meager portion.

A vegetarian special of Mexican tempura over polenta ($12.95) sounds like a strange mishmash, and unfortunately it is. The veggies are soggy and flavorless, not as light and crisp as tempura should be, and the black bean sauce clashes with the polenta.

Too much going on here.

The molasses duck ($17.95) is better. It has a dark molasses-basted skin and moist, light meat and comes with a couple of potato-scallion pancakes and a warm spinach salad.

An excellent wine list, with many local offerings, and professional service are other attractions for this new, conveniently local downtown bistro. Try it for lunch and cinch that business deal. If you like it, go back for dinner and celebrate.

Feast Address: 98 Old Courthouse Square, Santa Rosa; 591-9800 Hours: Monday-Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Tuesday-Saturday, 5:30 to 9 p.m. (to 9:30 p.m. on Fridays-Saturdays) Food: American regional cuisine Service: Professional Ambiance: Graceful bistro; business-like by day, romantic by night Price: Moderate to expensive (much depends on time of day) Wine list: Good varied selection by the bottle and some by the glass Overall: 2 1/2 stars (out of 4).

From the December 16-22, 1999 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Phoenix

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Photograph by Michael Amsler

What Next?

Fans of the Phoenix ponder the future

By Patrick Sullivan

IT MAY HAVE been the most unusual crowd ever to grace the stage at the Phoenix Theatre. At a hastily called news conference on Dec. 8, well-coifed TV reporters mingled quietly with concerned Petaluma City Council members, besuited business leaders, and roving photographers hauling cameras that would put the cost of most metal bands’ sound equipment to shame.

They were all on the edge of their seats, waiting to meet the mystery investors who stepped in at the last minute to save the all-ages Petaluma alternative-music venue from being turned into an office building at the hands of a Sebastopol developer.

The angels of musical mercy turned out to be a group of unassuming local telecom engineers who made serious bank from the stock market last year when their employer, Cerent Corp., was bought out by Cisco Systems. The four pooled their newfound money to buy the Phoenix from the developer who had it in escrow. Two of the investors–Paul Elliott and Keith Neuendorff–decided to drop their cloak of anonymity last week after the new deal was signed.

But naming names was only half the point of the news conference that brought the pack of news hounds to the Phoenix.

There was another big question confronting both the suits on the stage and the crowd of kids hanging out in front of the theater. Now that the Phoenix is in the hands of those who love the place (Elliott, after all, used to play bass on the stage with his band the Creetones), what happens next?

“We’ve preserved the building for the time being, which allows us some breathing space to figure out what the next steps are,” said Elliott, now a systems architect at Cisco. “I think that will require community involvement. . . . It’s become very apparent that there’s a lot of support, but it’s going to take a while to get this done.”

The building, built in 1904 as an opera house, has served as a mosh pit and teen hangout for the past 15 years under the management of Tom Gaffey, who will stay at the helm under the new owners. It’s been the first gig for many local bands, and some heavy-duty stars of the music scene, including Primus and Green Day, made their name playing the Phoenix.

But many, including Gaffey, believe the building must become more accessible to other segments of the population by, for instance, providing a place for local theater groups to perform.

Moreover, the aging building could use some serious renovation, and the law requires an expensive seismic retrofit that must be completed by 2002. Hours before the deal was signed, the potential buyers received a dauntingly high estimate of the cost to make the building earthquake safe.

“It wasn’t orders of magnitude beyond what we were expecting, but it was definitely on the high side,” Elliott said.

The money for that task will come primarily from the community. The effort to pull together the good will and big bucks to get the work done will apparently be spearheaded by business consultant John Sheehy, a man Tom Gaffey calls the “continuity coordinator” of the organizing attempt.

“I hope that no one goes away thinking ‘This is it, the Phoenix is saved,’ ” Sheehy told the crowd. “This is just the beginning.”

Attempting to raise the retrofit sum (which approaches $800,000) may not be as difficult as it would have been a few years ago. The recent tussle over the theater’s fate has demonstrated that the Phoenix has acquired a surprising new level of support among local politicians and even the once-hostile business community. Among the signs: the Save-the-Phoenix buyout effort received legal help from attorney Thom Knudson, president of the Petaluma Chamber of Commerce.

“I think over the recent years many people in the business community have come to appreciate Tom for the tremendous good that he does for the community,” Knudson explained. “Those who think of the Phoenix and the business community as being at odds are thinking of a few years ago when there was some tension.”

Whatever challenges may lie in the theater’s future, the feeling of relief among Sonoma County teens was palpable. Leslie Crebassa, one of the few kids to brave the stage during the news conference, didn’t try to hide her joy.

“I really want to say thank you,” Crebassa, 14, exclaimed to the new buyers. “We all wanted to save it, but none of us had the money.”

For more information about the Phoenix Theatre organizing committee, call John Sheehy at 664-9993.

From the December 16-22, 1999 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Local Charities

Photograph by Michael Amsler

Holiday Giving

Charity starts at home–nine agencies that need your help

By Shelley Lawrence

AS THE HOLIDAY season enfolds us, the flood of shop-’til-you-drop-then-eat-’til-you’re-sick may still leave you feeling a bit unfulfilled. Lending a hand to those who are less fortunate can leave you feeling far richer, as Ebenezer Scrooge learned the hard way. Here are nine volunteer, charity, and other do-good organizations in Sonoma County that could use your help this season while providing a conduit for your holiday spirit.

Adult Literacy Program

OPERATED through the Sonoma County Library (3rd and E streets, Santa Rosa), the Adult Literacy Program provides one-on-one tutoring to adults who want to learn how to read. The students meet for two hours a week with their tutors. Families for Literacy, designed to break the cycle of illiteracy, works with students who have children under age 6. The program hosts a monthly family night to help non-native speakers with their reading and writing skills. Tutoring volunteers are put through a teaching workshop and asked to volunteer two hours a week. Other volunteers are needed for office work and to staff booths at the Santa Rosa Downtown Market and the Home Show and Fair at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds. Book donations are always welcome–specifically, children’s books, reference books, and simple adult books and novels in good condition. Call Ruth Maloney at 544-2622.

AIDS Food Bank

THE FOOD for Thought AIDS food bank (6550 Railroad Ave, Forestville) is run by four paid staffers and 400 volunteers. Serving AIDS patients from Sea Ranch to Sonoma, the food bank (which is not related to the natural-food store of the same name) provides groceries, vitamins, supplements, and frozen meals to 290 people in Sonoma County. Deliveries are made to those who cannot pick up their own groceries. The Food Bank is working in conjunction with the Occidental Center for Arts and Ecology to expand the center’s organic gardens as a form of “earth therapy” for both clients and volunteers. There are a wide variety of opportunities for volunteers here, from stocking groceries, matching patients with groceries, and making deliveries to staffing food drives held at grocery stores throughout the county. Donations of groceries and personal care items (toothpaste, shaving cream, etc.) are accepted. Call Stewart Scofield at 887-1647.

COTS

THE COMMITTEE on the Shelterless operates a variety of services for the homeless in the Petaluma area, including a family shelter. COTS has opened a holiday donation center at the Petaluma Plaza North Shopping Center (275 N. McDowell Blvd.). For homeless children and their families, the center accepts new wrapped and unwrapped gifts, including toys, warm clothing, books, art supplies, or gift certificates to local department and grocery stores. The center also accepts gifts for single homeless adults. The donation center is open Monday through Wednesday, from 6:30 to 8:39 p.m.; and Saturday, from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. For information, call Mimi Spencer at 782-9114, ext. 2087.

Family Support Center

CATHOLIC CHARITIES provides this shelter service for homeless families, giving priority to those with children. The shelter (465 A St., Santa Rosa) houses 26 to 30 families at a time, feeding them three meals a day and providing support services, parenting classes, child care, and substance-abuse counseling. Help in the kitchen with the holiday dinner is always welcome, and there are many other opportunities to help out. Volunteers can sort donated gifts and match them to families, deliver gifts to families who’ve previously lived in the shelter, provide child care, or help out with reception work. Call Chrissy Udell at 542-5426.

Hospital Chaplaincy Services

FOR 30 YEARS NOW, Hospital Chaplaincy Services has provided interfaith emotional and spiritual support to patients, families, and workers at skilled-nursing facilities and medical-care centers. The chaplains are given an intense training program that teaches volunteers how to listen from the heart in ways to inspire trust and confidence–how to give the gift of real attention. Although the services are non-sectarian, the chaplaincy is spiritually based, in terms of how chaplains relate to patients. Volunteers go through a 40-hour training period (which costs $50) and are asked for 100 hours of service, at the rate of two to three hours a week. Call Barbara Yungert at 566-9600.

Kid Street Theater

NOW IN ITS eighth year, Kid Street Theater (54 West Sixth St., Santa Rosa) serves youth at risk, kids without homes, and other disregarded children in our community through an innovative and therapeutic arts program. This school year, the organization also began a public charter school with an after-school program. Volunteers are always needed in classrooms to read stories and to help kids with their ABCs and numbers. Volunteers in the after-school program can prepare snacks, work at the art tables, and help kids with their lines for the theater productions. Please call Laurie Kaufman or Melissa Black at 525-9223.

Planting Earth Activation

THIS SEBASTOPOL group of 20-somethings strives to make Sonoma County a better place by planting organic gardens in the yards and available spaces of those willing to share their land. The group keeps only a quarter of the garden’s yield, to share with volunteers and to harvest the seeds. PEA is opposed to all forms of genetic engineering of food crops and uses only heirloom seeds (non-modified seeds saved down through generations of plants). Most of the gardens are located in Sebastopol, but the group is working to expand throughout Sonoma County. A current project sorely in need of volunteers is the transplantation of the largest community garden in Sebastopol to a new site (the old site is being developed). Call Eric Linley at 829-2731.

Southwest Family Planning Center

THIS GOVERNMENT-funded clinic (751 Lombardi Court, Santa Rosa) provides free and low-cost care to women for sexually transmitted disease testing, pregnancy and pre-natal counseling and care, and pelvic and breasts exams. For men, the clinic tests for tuberculosis, lung and heart disease, prostate cancer, and STDs. Although the center is not a non-profit organization, monetary donations and volunteers are needed. If volunteers are interested in a particular area of health care, the clinic can train them in that area. Call Kim Caldaway at 544-7526.

Women Against Rape

THIS SONOMA COUNTY support organization serves anyone who has been a victim of sexual assault. WAR provides counseling, referrals, and “whatever we can do to help [those persons] claim their life again” to women, men, teens, and children. The office is staffed by volunteers who’ve had approximately 50 hours of training. WA. does outreach through public schools with programs such as the Teen Assault Prevention Program and the Child Assault Prevention Program, and operates a 24/7 crisis hotline (545-7273). Interested volunteers can call Lee Mehlman, and “we’ll put them to work where their talents and interests lie.” For details, call 545-7270.

From the December 16-22, 1999 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Bioengineered Foods

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Photograph by Janet Orsi

Bio Bites

Lawsuit reveals doubts among FDA scientists over biotech food safety

By Ken Roseboro

NEWLY DISCLOSED Internal U.S. Food and Drug Administration documents reveal that the agency’s own scientists expressed doubts about its policy toward bioengineered foods while raising questions about the foods’ safety.

The revelations come at a time when the FDA is under increasing pressure from consumer groups and members of Congress to require labeling of bioengineered foods. In response, the agency is holding public meetings–including one this week in Oakland, where Glen Ellen organic farmer Bob Cannard lobbied for a statewide ballot initiative requiring labeling of bioengineered foods–to ask the American people if its policy should be changed.

The FDA documents were released to the Alliance for Bio-Integrity, a coalition of scientists, religious leaders, health professionals, and consumers that is suing the FDA to demand mandatory safety testing and labeling of bioengineered foods.

A legal brief filed recently by the alliance in U.S. District Court, Washington, D.C., quotes several agency scientists who raised objections in FDA memoranda about the agency’s policy before it was established in 1992.

In particular, they challenge the FDA’s view that foods developed by genetic engineering are “substantially equivalent” to those produced by traditional plant breeding unless they contain additional synthetic ingredients. Under this reasoning, the agency does not require labeling of bioengineered foods, and safety testing is voluntary for the companies that produce them.

FDA policy states, “The agency is not aware of any information showing that foods derived by these new [genetic engineering] methods differ from other foods in any meaningful or uniform way, or that, as a class, foods developed by the new technologies present any different or greater safety concern than foods developed by traditional plant breeding.”

However, in a February 1992 memo, Louis J. Pribyl, Ph.D., a scientist in the FDA’s microbiology group, critiqued a policy draft by writing, “There is a profound difference between the types of unexpected effects from traditional breeding and genetic engineering which is just glanced over in this document.”

Pribyl added that several aspects of gene insertion “may be more hazardous than traditional plant crossbreeding.”

In a January 1992 memo, Linda Kahl, an FDA compliance officer, objected that the agency was “trying to fit a square peg into a round hole [by] trying to force an ultimate conclusion that there is no difference between foods modified by genetic engineering and foods modified by traditional breeding practices.”

She continued, “The processes of genetic engineering and traditional breeding are different, and according to the technical experts in the agency, they lead to different risks.”

E. J. Matthews of the FDA’s toxicology group warned in an October 1991 memo, “genetically modified plants could also contain unexpected high concentrations of plant toxicants.”

In a November 1991 memo to James Maryanski, the FDA’s biotechnology coordinator, the FDA’s Division of Food Chemistry and Technology cautioned, “It would be necessary to demonstrate that edible seeds and oils produced from genetically engineered plants do not contain unintended potentially harmful substances at levels that would cause concern.”

According to Steven M. Druker, executive director of the Alliance for Bio-Integrity and coordinator of the lawsuit against the FDA, “Numerous agency experts protested that drafts of the statement of policy were ignoring the recognized potential for bioengineering to produce unexpected toxins and allergens.”

The Right to Know: The California Right to Know/Genetically Engineered Food Initiative.

IN A RECENT articulation of the FDA position, Maryanski told the U.S. House Subcommittee on Basic Research on Oct. 19: “Substances added through genetic engineering are well-characterized proteins, fats, and carbohydrates and are functionally very similar to other proteins, fats, and carbohydrates that are commonly and safely consumed in the diet, and so will be presumptively generally recognized as safe.”

The Alliance for Bio-Integrity claims the current FDA policy violates the U.S. Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act, which mandates that new food additives be established as safe through testing before marketing. The FDA claims that bioengineered organisms are exempt from testing because they are “generally recognized as safe” (or GRAS, in FDA shorthand).

According to the U.S. Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act, foods can be recognized as safe only on the basis of tests that establish their harmlessness. Druker claims no such tests exist for bioengineered foods.

Two FDA scientists emphasized the lack of scientific data to recognize the safety of bioengineered foods. In her response to the draft of the policy statement, Kahl wrote, “Are we asking the scientific experts to generate the basis for this policy statement in the absence of any data?” She continued, “There is no data that could quantify risk.”

In his critique of the draft, Pribyl, wrote, “Without a sound scientific base to rest on, this becomes a broad, general, ‘What do I have to do to avoid trouble?’ type document.”

According to Druker, “The FDA is using the GRAS exemption to circumvent testing and to approve substances based largely on conjecture that is dubious in the eyes of its own and many experts. Consequently, every genetically engineered food in the United States is on the market illegally and should be recalled for vigorous safety testing.”

Citing the lawsuit, the FDA declined to comment to the American News Service about its scientists’ objections.

Philip J. Regal, professor of ecology, evolution, and behavior at the University of Minnesota and a plaintiff in the lawsuit, said he knew several FDA scientists who were “disgusted” with the policy.

During the early 1980s, Regal was asked to help the government establish a system of regulating biotech foods. He said his goal was to develop a system that would protect the American public. Instead, he said policy development favored biotech companies.

“The bureaucrats were under pressure from the White House to help the biotech industry, which was against regulation and thought it would be too expensive,” he said. “The result was no regulatory system, just a sham.”

According to Regal, the FDA knew about the risks of genetically engineered foods before it drafted policy guidelines but decided it was up to the industry to deal with them. He said a common phrase at the time was “If Americans want progress, they’ll have to be the guinea pigs.”

When he saw genetically engineered foods appearing on the market, Regal said, “It was all I could take,” and became a plaintiff in the lawsuit.

Regal and Druker say a bioengineered ingredient may be responsible for the tragedy in Minnesota that resulted after people took an L-tryptophan food supplement in 1988. According to Druker, who studied government reports of the incident, the supplement was genetically engineered by Showa Denko K.K., a manufacturer based in Japan. Shortly after the supplement was put on the market, many people who took it became ill with eosinophilia myalgia syndrome, a potentially fatal and debilitating disease.

Thirty-seven people died, 1,500 were permanently disabled, and another 4,000 became ill.

While no cause was established, in a September 1991 memo from a meeting with representatives of the Government Accounting Office, FDA biotechnology coordinator Maryanski wrote, “We do not yet know the cause of EMS nor can we rule out the engineering of the organism.”

The FDA has imposed severe restrictions on importing or using L-tryptophan because of its suspected association with EMS. Regal said, “This is the kind of accident you expect from genetic engineering.”

He said the process of insert-ing genes into an organism can cause mutations to existing genes of the organism, creating toxins.

Another plaintiff, Richard Stroh-man, emeritus professor of molecular and cell biology at the University of California, said in an interview with the ANS that planting millions of acres of bioengineered crops, as is done in the United States, is “insanity” because the technology can produce unpredictable and possibly negative changes to plants and their environments. “Many, many years of research are needed before we can arrive at any conclusions about how these plants will work,” Strohman said.

According to an FDA official who spoke on the record but asked not to be named, manufacturers of bioengineered foods “have no reason to produce an unsafe product.”

The agency gives guidance to manufacturers about safety testing, using a flowchart. The official told the ANS that to ensure consumer safety, “there are a series of steps we want to see the manufacturer do. When they find a problem, they stop production. Companies have an interest in producing a safe product.”

The official cited the well-publicized example of Pioneer Hi-Bred’s engineering of a soybean using a Brazil nut gene, which was stopped when it was discovered that it would cause allergies in people who are allergic to Brazil nuts. “The system worked,” said the official.

However, in his 1992 memo, Pribyl of the FDA criticized this voluntary testing, “Why should companies conduct tests as described in the flow- charts if there are no differences between traditional foods and those produced by modern technology? If industry does not follow these ‘should’ items, is the FDA going to perform these tests and penalize the companies or does the agency wait for something to go wrong and then act?”

THE FDA faces increasing pressure from consumer groups and, more recently, congressional leaders to change its biotech food policy.

House Minority Whip David Bonior, D-Mich., has urged the FDA to reverse its policy, and Dennis Kucinich, D-Ohio, plans to introduce a bill to require labels on genetically engineered foods.

Last June, a group called Mothers for Natural Law delivered petitions with 500,000 signatures to the FDA demanding safety testing and labeling. Consumers Union, the oldest and largest association of American consumers with 4.7 million member households, called for the same in its September issue of Consumer Reports. In response, the FDA has held a series of three public meetings (including this week’s Oakland forum) to inform the public about its policy for ensuring the safety of bioengineered foods and to ask for input about whether its policy should be changed.

An FDA spokesperson said, “We’re in a listening mode. We want to get information from the American public and want to know if what we’re doing is good enough to make people feel comfortable. We will consider everything we hear.”

The FDA will continue to accept public comment on its bioengineered foods policies for several weeks. You can e-mail the agency at www.FDA.gov.

From the December 16-22, 1999 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

Britt Galler

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Photograph by Michael Amsler

True Britt

Britt Galler spreads the word, one Acre at a time

By Marina Wolf

LIKE MOST restaurants, Acre Cafe comes alive at night. The fireplace casts its glow across the room and on the couples courting on the green velvet couch, a spot that chef-owner Britt Galler calls “the most romantic seat in town.”

During the day, though, this former bagel shop, one block off the main plaza in Healdsburg, is less inviting. The room is chilly, the fireplace exudes only a smell of stale smoke, and the couch loses its evening glamour to become just another piece of stiff furniture. It creaks slightly as Galler sits down with a sigh. The 30-year-old chef is still getting used to the non-stop pace of her first restaurant. She tugs at the wrists of her wool cardigan, the same color as the couch. But on this cool winter afternoon, the only source of warmth in the room is in Galler’s hazel eyes when she speaks of her home in Healdsburg and her experiments in community.

She lives on some property outside of town with her boyfriend and business partner, Steve DeCosse, and some chickens. Her best friend and other business partner, Marci Ellison, lives next door. While the garden there doesn’t supply all or even most of the produce for the seasonally inspired menus at Acre, just getting out to the farmers’ market and talking to the local farmers is more than enough.

“Even though I don’t have the luxury of stepping outside and harvesting our own produce, I do get to support our local farmers and create community there, which was one of the main reasons I got involved in the restaurant business,” says Galler earnestly.

“Restaurants are integral to community. You’re supporting the community and feeding it at the same time.”

THE ROOT of Galler’s obsession with community and good food is fairly close to the surface. Raised an only child by her divorced mother, she was encouraged to choose her own food at an early age.

“I started off with grilled cheese sandwiches and canned soup, but I was always interested in serving,” recalls Galler. “I invited my girlfriend over and I served that soup.”

The food/feeding motif continued to play out through her years at Reed College in Portland, Ore., where the young Galler cooked in collective households and provided under-the-table baked goods to the student cafe. After ditching the rigid academia at Reed, Galler proceeded to eat her way around Asia, went to cooking school in Portland, and landed a few prime cafe gigs in San Francisco.

But her interest bloomed into full-blown love during an apprenticeship at the Center for Agroecology and Sustainable Food Systems at UC Santa Cruz, where Galler and 34 other residents worked the 20-some-acre farm and lived in tents for six months.

“I really got off on that,” she says, a slight grin quirking the corners of her mouth. “We did everything together, whether cooking or cleaning the bathroom. I found that to be a really gratifying experience.”

After completing the program in 1994, Galler opened an all-vegetarian, all-organic catering business and dinner-delivery service in Santa Cruz. The market there was welcoming of vegetarian offerings, but after three years, Galler found other reasons to get out. For starters, there wasn’t a lot of money among the large student population, which put a ceiling on which menus–and price ranges–would fly.

There were personal factors as well. “I like the fine things. I like good wine and nice clothes, though you can’t tell today,” she says with a rueful glance at her Sunday casual clothes. “Anyway, I have a taste for those things, and it wasn’t a supportive place for that.”

So Galler took to traveling again. She apprenticed at a restaurant in Oaxaca, Mexico, for five months and went farther south–to Chile–to cook for river-rafting expeditions for a while. But something about moving on all the time wore her down. “I got tired of feeling that I wasn’t committed to anything,” she explains.

At that point, Marci, a friend from “the Farm,” invited her to come and check out Healdsburg. “I fell in love with it,” Galler says simply. “It’s just the right size. . . . Living in a small town is much more appealing to me than living in a city, primarily because people are really accountable for their behavior in a small community. You can’t cut someone off when you’re driving, because you’re going to see them at the bakery later.”

Or at the restaurant.

BY GALLER’S figuring, the restaurant is a repository for several communities: the workers, the suppliers, and the customers. The three owners are planning more community-building events, such as dinners with winemakers and farmers, where diners can meet the folks who produced their meal. Galler is particularly looking forward to hosting community dinners this month, when they’ll push all the tables together.

“So many people already know each other, so it should be fun.”

Other equally dramatic innovations will hit Acre in mid-January, when the restaurant will close for a month for a complete remodeling of the bagel-era kitchen, which has two electric burners and two ovens, but no gas burners–“It’s a testament to our abilities that people don’t realize that,” Galler says.

She’s excited about the new culinary possibilities the remodeling will open, but to her the community and ecology of the place are even more important. “For me, the restaurant is a vehicle toward the larger goal of educating people about sustainable food,” says this enthusiastic young woman whose inspiration is, fittingly, seasonal-food guru Alice Waters.

“I don’t think people are having epiphanies here. But if people are having a really good meal and they’re cognizant of the fact that it’s organic, local, seasonal, and they feel good after they eat it, which I think they do, then that’s an accomplishment.”

The first community dinners at Acre Cafe will be held on Monday, Dec. 20, and Monday, Dec. 27, with seatings at 6 and 8 p.m. both nights. The prix fixe menu will cost $20 per person. For reservations, call 431-1302.

From the December 16-22, 1999 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

CD Box Sets

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Photograph by Michael Amsler

Boxing Day

An avalanche of CD sets hits the stores

By Greg Cahill

PRAY FOR CASH–holiday cash, that is. It’s box-set season, and record companies are flooding the market with sometimes silly, usually pricey CD packages that anthologize the deserving (the Grateful Dead) and, well, the forgettable (i.e., Alice in Chains).

This year, there are some worthy entries in the box-set bash, ranging from avant-rocker Captain Beefheart and Top 40 hitmakers the Doobie Brothers to crossover queen Linda Ronstadt and reggae superstar Bob Marley.

So be kind to your favorite rich uncle, pray for cash (you’ll need it, along with a second mortgage, if you plan to buy the 26-disc Soundtrack for a Century at $330), and treat yourself to one of these sensational offerings:

Bob Marley Songs of Freedom Island

THIS FOUR-CD collection of material, from the reggae great who rose to international stardom before succumbing in 1981 to cancer at age 36, is one of the most sought-after sets in recording history. First issued in 1992 as a limited-edition, hardbound book, Songs of Freedom quickly went out of print after a worldwide run of just a million copies–hardly enough to whet the appetite of Marley’s far-flung fans. Copies of the original box set still sell for up to $300 on Internet auction sites–you can now buy this modified version–lacking the hardbound jacket and ambitious packaging–for one sixth that cost. You still get 77 tracks chronicling Marley’s rise from a doo-wop-inspired ska/soul singer to frontman for the Wailers. And Marley’s greatness is underscored by the sheer soul and immense power of his songwriting and singing.

Sammy Davis Jr. Yes I Can: The Sammy Davis Jr. Story Warner Archives

THE COMMENSURATE showman. At the short-lived Rat Pack reunion back in the late ’80s (I was too dazzled by all the rhinestones, blue hair, and mothball-scented furs to now recollect the exact year), Sammy Davis Jr. stole the show from Frank Sinatra and ran rings around an ailing Dean Martin. The king of big finishes, indeed. Here he is on four CDs and in all his bombastic glory–the hard-knock kid who worked harder to make it farther.

Captain Beefheart Grow Fins: Rarities, 1965-82 Revenant

The Dust Blows Forward: An Anthology Warner Archives/Rhino

HE NEVER had a hit record and barely even cracked the Top 100 album chart, but avant rocker Don Van Vliet (aka Captain Beefheart) cast a long shadow over the rock world. His influence can be heard in the work of Tom Waits, the Red Hot Chili Peppers, the Violent Femmes, and a legion of underground rockers. Now retired in Northern California and living the life of a reclusive painter, Beefheart started his musical career in 1963 as a collaborator of longtime friend Frank Zappa (who later produced sides for Beefheart). Working in Los Angeles, he scored a regional hit in 1965 with a garagey cover of Bo Diddley’s “Diddy Wah Diddy” (produced by David Gates, who later went on to fame as the white-bread visionary behind the ’70s pop band Bread). But he’s best known for his avant rock forays grounded in blues-drenched psy-chedelia and plenty of strange antics. The four-CD box set Grow Fins, described by Entertainment Weekly as “a fan’s wet dream,” gathers rarities, outtakes, and demos for Beefheart cultists. The Dust Blows Forward culls the best of Beefheart and his Magic Band (which once featured an 18-year-old Ry Cooder on guitar), and includes some surprisingly accessible blues.

Various Artists Loud, Fast & Out of Control Rhino

OK, THE ’50s and early ’60s have been packaged and repackaged ad nauseam, but this four-CD set–replete with 84-page full-color booklet emblazoned with cheesy pulp fiction artwork–from the reissue kings at Rhino Records manages to capture the raw excitement and timeless teen angst that has earned rock ‘n’ roll a place at the top of the planet’s cultural heap in this century. All the rockabilly and vintage rock greats are here: from Little Richard’s bop-bop-a-lu-boppin’ scat singin’ hits to the twangy instrumental guitar attack of Link Wray & the Wraymen. And so are less well known giants, like Joe Clay, Johnny Burnette, and Screamin’ Jay Hawkins. R&B pioneer, producer, and talent scout–and Sonoma County transplant–Johnny Otis even pops up (and most deservedly so) with his “Crazy Country Hop.” And if that doesn’t get your blood flowin’, don’t bother to check your pulse, buddy, you’re already stone-cold dead. Missing in action: Dale Hawkins of “Susie Q” fame.

Various Artists Central Avenue Sounds: Jazz in Los Angeles, 1921-56 Rhino

THE CITY of the Angels has long been a haven for wayward jazz musicians. Over the years, it hosted everything from a New Orleans jazz revival to a vital West Coast jazz scene. This four-CD companion to jazz writer Clora Bryant’s 1998 book of the same name (published by the University of California Press) bristles with hot jazz and smokin’ R&B heard in and around an often overlooked artistic mecca that attracted the likes of Art Tatum, T-Bone Walker, Lionel Hampton, Benny Carter, Charles Mingus, and Charlie Parker. The set includes rare recordings of New Orleans great Kid Ory, Joe Liggin’s seminal R&B hit “The Honeydripper, Pts. 1 & 2,” and Big Jay McNeely’s electrifying “Nervous Man Nervous.” And it just doesn’t get any better than the frenetic piano duel between Hampton and Nat King Cole on 1940’s “Central Avenue Breakdown.”

Various Artists Testify! The Gospel Box Rhino

WHEN THEY hand out the Grammy Award next year for best CD packaging, this clever item should be on the receiving end–a three-CD and booklet tucked into a red hymnal decorated with stained-glass graphic and dangling a satin-ribbon bookmark. Inside are 50 tracks of heavenly inspiration, ranging from the small-group soul of the Swan Silvertones (featuring vocalist Claude Jeter, who served as a role model for soul singer Al Green) to the dynamic choir Sounds of Blackness. Most of the big names in classic and contemporary gospel are included–Clara Ward & the Ward Singers (featuring Marion Williams, arguably America’s greatest singer of all time), the Edwin Hawkins Singers, Dorothy Love Coates, the Golden Gate Jubilee Quartet, the original Five Blind Boys of Alabama–though the Soul Stirrers with Sam Cook are conspicuously absent. Still, Aretha Franklin’s soaring triumph “Mary Don’t You Weep” alone is worth the price of admission.

The Grateful Dead So Many Roads Arista

WITH SO MANY great live Dick’s Picks series–compiled by the late Dick Latvala of Petaluma–on the market (not to mention a million bootlegs), this could have been anti-climactic. But the tireless efforts of Dead documenters David Gans, Blair Jackson, and Steve Silberman–who jointly compiled these five discs–have resulted in a comprehensive look at a band that spanned four decades. Culled from live concert dates (and, yes, there are plenty of missed notes and off-key vocals), the set includes many of the band’s best-known tunes and a lot of obscure tracks that include sound-check jams and the like. More than just a token to a counterculture icon.

From the December 16-22, 1999 issue of the Sonoma County Independent.

© Metro Publishing Inc.

‘It’s a Wonderful Life’

Christmas king Christopher Radko weighs in on tolerance, the Devil, and 'It's a Wonderful Life' Writer David Templeton takes interesting people to interesting movies in his ongoing quest for the ultimate post-film conversation. This column is not a review; rather, it's a freewheeling, tangential discussion of life, alternative ideas, and popular culture. ...

Stocking Stuffers

Stuffer Stalking Quick, cheap--but oh-so-thoughtful--last-minute stocking stuffers By Yosha Bourgea and David Templeton WORK 12 long months, and what do you get? Another darned Christmas and deeper in debt. As you back the forklift through the living room, depositing another stack of gaily wrapped hibachis and Thighmasters under the towering tree, you...

A Christmas Story

Fire & Ice Snowball in Hell: A Christmas Story At 11:15 on the West Coast of Heaven, just before midnight on a clear Christmas Eve, one tiny angel--with her halo in her pocket and her wings folded down--was silently sneaking from Angel Town. Snowball (her name) was the...

Materialism

Teaching Material(ism) By Mieke H. Bomann AS CORPORATIONS become ever more sophisticated in their marketing techniques to children, critics are calling for increased vigilance in schools, and government officials are starting to pay attention. Arguing that the classroom should be a marketplace of ideas, not of products, many educators and parents protest that advertising...

Feast

Something special: Feast owners Heidi Scott McQuarrie and Jesse McQuarrie. Small Banquet Feastin' in a new downtown bistro By Paula Harris THE PLACE has been open only a few weeks, but already local ladies hailing from downtown banks, plush offices, and departments of the city of Santa Rosa...

Phoenix

Photograph by Michael Amsler What Next? Fans of the Phoenix ponder the future By Patrick Sullivan IT MAY HAVE been the most unusual crowd ever to grace the stage at the Phoenix Theatre. At a hastily called news conference on Dec. 8, well-coifed TV reporters mingled quietly with...

Local Charities

Photograph by Michael Amsler Holiday Giving Charity starts at home--nine agencies that need your help By Shelley Lawrence AS THE HOLIDAY season enfolds us, the flood of shop-'til-you-drop-then-eat-'til-you're-sick may still leave you feeling a bit unfulfilled. Lending a hand to those who are less fortunate can leave you feeling...

Bioengineered Foods

Photograph by Janet Orsi Bio Bites Lawsuit reveals doubts among FDA scientists over biotech food safety By Ken Roseboro NEWLY DISCLOSED Internal U.S. Food and Drug Administration documents reveal that the agency's own scientists expressed doubts about its policy toward bioengineered foods while raising questions about the foods' safety....

Britt Galler

Photograph by Michael Amsler True Britt Britt Galler spreads the word, one Acre at a time By Marina Wolf LIKE MOST restaurants, Acre Cafe comes alive at night. The fireplace casts its glow across the room and on the couples courting on the green velvet couch, a spot that...

CD Box Sets

Photograph by Michael Amsler Boxing Day An avalanche of CD sets hits the stores By Greg Cahill PRAY FOR CASH--holiday cash, that is. It's box-set season, and record companies are flooding the market with sometimes silly, usually pricey CD packages that anthologize the deserving (the Grateful Dead) and, well,...
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