Two decades ago, Bruce Hill and Bill Higgins first opened Picco in Larkspur, which has become one of Marin’s most enduring culinary landmarks.
For the past six years, executive chef Michael Reyes has carried that legacy forward. A Culinary Institute of America graduate who grew up on California’s Central Coast, he ascended through some of the nation’s most celebrated kitchens, such as The French Laundry, Gotham Bar and Grill, Lazy Bear, Commis, Aqua and Mourad. But it was closer to home at San Luis Obispo’s beloved Café Roma that his Italian cooking was really solidified.
In 2020, after extensive work across the Bay Area and wine country, he landed at Restaurant Picco.
“I look forward to being here every single day,” says Reyes, who credits a devoted team he says would “walk through walls and fire” for him.
His reverence for seasonal ingredients shines throughout the menu. A signature example: Picco’s risotto, prepared fresh every 30 minutes. Reyes builds a savory broth using umami-rich Parmigiano Reggiano rinds, combined with arborio rice and mesquite-grilled artichoke hearts, then folds in a mascarpone, Grana Padano and Meyer lemon zest, and finishes it with orange oil.
It’s no wonder that Reyes loves a simple gin gimlet, the purity of which is sometimes elevated by a hint of cucumber. Perhaps this could be one’s next off-menu order at the Picco bar. Or they could opt for any of their inventive cocktails, like the Grandaddy Purple with gin and huckleberry yuzu liquor or the Canned Heat with reposado tequila, ancho chile, passionfruit and a firewater tincture. But if wine is more one’s thing, they may visit on a Monday when every bottle on the extensive Picco wine list is half price.
Amber Turpin: How did you get into this work?
Michael Reyes: I have always loved eating, especially culturally different and unique foods. When I was in college, there was a great Italian restaurant I fell in love with. My friend was a server there, and I begged him for a job in the kitchen because I wanted to learn how to cook the potatoes they had on their chicken set. I begged the chef to give me a shot, and eventually he caved in and hired me. I haven’t stopped since.
Did you ever have an ‘aha’ moment with a certain beverage? If so, tell us about it.
The first time I had a mind-blowing gimlet with cucumbers.
What is your favorite thing to drink at home?
Water or kombucha.
Where do you like to go out for a drink?
Silver Peso (in Larkspur) for shots and beers.
If you were stuck on a desert island, what would you want to be drinking (besides fresh water)?
When life gives you coconuts, make pina coladas.
Restaurant Picco, 320 Magnolia Ave., Larkspur, 415.924.0300, restaurantpicco.com.
