Phi Nguyen is chef de cuisine at The Madrona, marking an astoundingly speedy culinary path upwards over the 10 years since he emigrated here from Vietnam in 2016.
Rising up within the region’s dining scene, he gained experience at Flowers Vineyard & Winery, Montage Healdsburg and Farmhouse Inn before landing at The Madrona.
Amber Turpin: How did you get into this work?
Phi Nguyen: I started cooking in my senior year of high school … when I signed up for the Culinary Arts program without knowing what “culinary” even was, and I got hooked by joining the catering club … where I met my first chef mentor, Gabriel Nahas. I went on to work with him at the DoubleTree Hotel in Rohnert Park and moved my way up.
What is your favorite thing to cook (or eat) and why?
Pasta Bolognese is definitely my go-to meal and the first thing I would think of to eat or to cook. Back when I used to live in Vietnam, my mom always took me to Pizza Hut, and that was the only place I could find spaghetti and meat sauce. Later on, I got to work with the celebrity chefs Duskie Estes and John Stewart, where I got to learn how to make all the homemade pasta and all the Italian meat sauce.
What ingredients do you use or eat the most?
In every Vietnamese household, we have key main ingredients that cannot be missing in our cooking, called “Mắm, muối, đường, bột ngọt,” which is “fish sauce, salt, sugar, MSG,” and this is what I use the most at home. At work, I always love to use garlic, butter, acid (especially lemon) and green peppercorn. There is one ingredient that I always try to not use too much, but it’s so hard for me not to use it, which is shiso leaves.
What are some of your go-to places to go out for a sit-down meal? What about take-out?
My go-to places for a sit-down meal are Sorella in San Francisco; their lobster lasagna by the incredible chef Fernanda is to die for. Sushi at Sushi by Scratch or Qimura in Windsor, dessert by chef Devin at Bear at Stanly Ranch, who is so incredibly talented, and ramen from Taste of Tea by chef Shayna, who is a close friend of mine.
For take-out, Bánh mì from Kelly in Santa Rosa is my go-to quick lunch when I am on my way to work. Phở from Pho Vietnam in Santa Rosa when I don’t feel like cooking at home. Tacos from the Delicias Elenita taco truck in Santa Rosa for late-night munchies. Lastly, a Double-Double from In-N-Out: There is no need for a reason… I just love it.
Last meal on Earth?
White rice with scrambled eggs (seasoned with fish sauce and MSG). Fish sauce glazed chicken wings always makes me happy. And lastly, sparkling water, any kind, with a shot of green Chartreuse to finish the meal.
The Madrona,1001 Westside Rd., Healdsburg, 707.395.6700, themadronahotel.com.
