No Exit

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Bruvvers From Another Planet: Nick Frost and Simon Pegg co-star in ‘Hot Fuzz.’

By Richard von Busack

FOR REASONS I’ll happily explain to anyone who cares, I am now following the snobby custom of including in my 2007 lists some movies that opened in New York and L.A. for Oscar consideration. And now, before any elaboration about the year in general, here are my choices, in no order, except for alphabetical.

THE BEST:

Away From Her

4 Months, 3 Weeks and 2 Days

Hot Fuzz/Don’t (trailer fromGrindhouse, both by director Edgar Wright)

I’m Not There

Inland Empire

No End in Sight

Persepolis

The Rape of Europa

Ratatouille

Sicko

RUNNERS-UP:

Sweeney Todd, the Demon Barber of Fleet Street, Atonement, Deep Water, Hairspray, Redacted, Michael Clayton, Control, Margot at the Wedding and Lust, Caution

THE WORST:

The Reaping, Romance and Cigarettes, Reign Over Me and 300

THE MOST OVERPRAISED:

American Gangster and Juno

You could guess that in the background of the admirable Ratatouille lie Emeryville’s anxieties about Anaheim, so to speak. Pixar suddenly had the world’s largest and most frightening rodent looking over their shoulders. Despite Mickey’s pitiless gaze, Brad Bird’s charming film did the two things American films do best: it entertained, and it sold the idea of democracy. And Remy the rat’s elegant pantomime skills should get a generation of kids ready to rediscover silent comedy.

This year also brought us an onslaught of ‘bromance” movies about the love between men—films as different as Superbad and 3:10 to Yuma. Surely Hot Fuzz was the most endearing. Meanwhile, Hot Fuzz director Edgar Wright’s (with Simon Pegg) monument to the Amicus/Tiglon era of British horror, the Don’t trailer from Grindhouse, transcended pastiche with a wonderful sequence of delirious images.

I’m Not There‘s analysis of Bob Dylan’s many masks also avoided the usual slush of the musician biopic, as well as the baby-boomer self-congratulation that made Across the Universe one of the year’s big trials. David Lynch’s Inland Empire deserves comparison with German Expressionist film as well as praise for its capacity to twist nerves without manipulation. As much as Julie Christie distinguished herself in Away From Her, Laura Dern’s performance was the best by an actress in 2007.

I will write more about Persepolis coming up when it opens locally in January, but the film is a multilevel triumph: an animated history lesson on the Middle East, a huge visual improvement over Marjane Satrapi’s seriously limited skills as an artist in her graphic novel—and a cautionary tale of life in any theocracy. Michael Moore did his country a service in Sicko; he took the issue of our teetering health system and made it unignorable in the next election.

Many fine documentaries and many weak, sometimes driveling dramas about Iraq came out in 2007. No End in Sight, Charles Ferguson’s study of the bungled invasion and occupation was the best of the former. One of the best of the latter, In the Valley of Elah, was more about the decadent boredom of a garrison town, anyway. Thus it had more in common with From Here to Eternity than with Redacted.

Indirectly reflecting the Iraq war’s endlessness were a number of films that just couldn’t plain come up with an ending: Atonement especially and the numb futility of the finale of No Country for Old Men. The film’s clublike force has to be respected dispassionately, just as one respects a piece like Cape Fear. But the fantasy of a pitiless pain-free Latino gangster is fit for Tom Tancredo.

You could count the blacking-out ending of The Sopranos as the same kind of audiencus interruptus proffered by No Country for Old Men. I thought the tactic worked better on TV, since we had already well established that the angel of death was always firmly perched on Tony’s shoulder. (AMC’s Mad Men was ultimately more worth talking about anyway. How about some applause for a TV show that insists that the role of women is the most important difference between 1960 and 2007? And that everything else is just jargon, trends and electronic toys?)

For those who can handle tragedy, the Romanian feature 4 Months, 3 Weeks and 2 Days was the best film I saw all year, tied only with the rerelease of Charles Burnett’s 1977 Killer of Sheep, now available on DVD from Milestone.

The story focuses on the circumstances of an illegal abortion in 1987, during the last days of Ceausescu’s dictatorship in Romania. It’s not the novelty of the tale that makes the film great. In breath-stopping long takes, director Cristian Mungiu masters drastic shifts of mood. The alterations include everything from a woman silently chafing under stress at a party to a horror/noir sequence at a housing project that makes Gaspar Noé and Eli Roth look like puppies.

This film will be celebrated more than watched. There were will be backlash based on misinterpretations. Some will denounce it (or celebrate it) as a movie version of the pro-life room in a Baptist church’s Halloween Hell House. But as the divided reaction over Vera Drake demonstrated, the war on choice, like the war on Iraq, seems to be endless.

This domestic conflict seems to me to have been the most salient point of cinema in 2007. According to Ian Fleming’s Auric Goldfinger, there was a saying in Chicago: “Once is happenstance; twice is coincidence; the third time, it’s enemy action.”

We had three prime (or maybe subprime) examples in 2007. Bella, the People’s Choice hit at the Toronto Film Festival, was propaganda to promote the idea of adoption. And then there was the hit comedy Knocked Up, which gifted the lexicon with the word “Sha-smortion.”

It is part of the quirky wit of Juno (opening Dec. 21) that a girl decides whimsically not to get an abortion because the counter help was blasé, the clinic smells like a dental office (smelled a maternity hospital lately?) and the fetus has fingernails. Juno is just the alt-rock version of the faux-Southern whimsy of Waitress. Anyone for a slice of “So Go Get an Abortion Already Pie”? All three films depended on a deliberate blindness to the real facts of life: the cost of having a kid in America. In these comedies, rich patrons pop up. In Knocked Up, an apparently unemployable loafer suddenly pulls a lucrative job out of his hat—or somewhere.

Political columnist Katha Pollitt of The Nation, writing about the liberal press’s caving in to Mike Huckabee’s Andy Griffith charm despite the Arkansan’s longings for a constitutional ban on abortion, asked in despair, “Does the issue of abortion—which is a marker for a whole range of women’s issues—just not matter to men?” Maybe not. Or maybe as Goldfinger was suggesting, it’s enemy action. Somewhere along the line, studio bosses read some survey saying that today’s young person despises abortion, and they floated around the idea that they wanted these kind of stories made.

One happy anecdote: Sarah Silverman’s audacious “abortion montage,” available on YouTube. But then again, there’s only one Sarah Silverman. When was the last time you saw a film in which the heroine (and her significant) went through an abortion, weathered it, used the experience for comedy or drama and were—most of all—glad they had the freedom to choose? Maybe there will be something like that in 2008.



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Out with the Old!

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music & nightlife |

Ivories: Mitch Woods and His Rocket 88’s add to the fun at the 142 Throckmorton.

By Gabe Meline

Congratulations. You made it through the crazed shopping and the tedious travel. You made it through the company party, the family gathering, the annual news reports about low fourth-quarter sales from the shrinking dollar and last night you finally cleaned up the stain from that sloppily-mixed eggnog you tipped over while drunk-dialing your ex-girlfriend’s parents on Christmas Eve to tell them you miss them and love them and to ask what channel Yule Log is on this year. Yes, my friend, you made it out unscathed.

Now it’s time to party.

Despite a few inspiring episodes —moments that we all hopefully witness, adore and cherish —Christmas is absolutely one of the most individually brutal holidays we could ever hope to survive, despite its ideals of loving one’s fellow man with equality for all. You want to see equality and love by the bucketful, man?

Go out on New Year’s Eve.

Yeah, yeah, a lot of people think New Years’ Eve is “amateur night,” whatever that means. When it comes to partying, do you really want to see a bunch of “professionals”? Hell, no, pardner —you wanna see office slaves and ranch hands and retail clerks and alimony lawyers and bloggers and unemployed dudes and waitresses all partying totally unprofessionally because, jeez, we’re all in this together and we made it through another year of the shitty president and my ex-girlfriend can stick it anyway and this band is rippin’ and d’you wanna maybe make out or sumthin’? Sweet, le’ssgo.

That is equality and love, amateur though it may be. In one moment, with one haphazardly recited midnight countdown, with total strangers kissing poorly, with lousy confetti and an even lousier song, the entire sweet and beautiful world is one. Here is our certain-not-to-be-complete list of places to go and be a part of it. Compiled by Cristina Wilson and Gretchen “7pm” Giles.

Sonoma

Ace-in-the-Hole Pub Ring in the New Year with Free Peoples and the Jug Dealers. Includes buffet dinner, Champagne toast and party favors. 3100 Gravenstein Hwy. N., Sebastopol. 8pm. $30 –$40. 707.829.1101.

Black Rose Irish Pub NYE party with the Spindles. 2074 Armory Drive, Santa Rosa. 8:30pm. $10. 707.546.7673.

Black Cat Bar & Cafe NYE party with the absolute funk of Sistas in the Pit. 10056 Main St., Penngrove. 9pm. $15. 707.793.9480.

Tommy Castro Annual rockin’ New Year’s bash with balloon drop and white-boy blues master. Mystic Theatre, 23 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma. 9pm. $50. 707.765.2121.

Club Yamagata New club wants you to wear boots to this fun party with DJ, food and more. 16225 Main St., Guerneville. 9pm. Free. 707.869.9875.

Johnny Downer Gotta be an upper, right? Guaranteed to be lousy with hipsters, which is always a positive. Sonoma County Golf Park, 1475 W. Sierra Ave., Cotati. 707.795.1760.

Flamingo Lounge Party with Crossfire. 2777 Fourth St., Santa Rosa. 9pm. $30. 707.545.8530.

Forestville Club Dance party with the Poyntlyss Sistars. 6250 Front St., Forestville. 9:30pm. Call for price. 707.887.2594.

Jake’s Rockabilly party with Buckaroo Bonet. 1030 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma. 9pm. $15. 707.778.8825.

John Allair Quartet Boogie keyboard master, Van Morrison’s two-hand man, takes over swank locale for night of fun. Hotel Healdsburg, 25 Matheson St., Healdsburg. 10pm. Free. 707.431.2800.

Latitude DJ dance party with balloon drop, party favors, appetizers, hip-hop and Top 40. 5000 Roberts Lake Road, Rohnert Park. 8:30pm. $10. 707.588.1800.

Main Street Station Cabaret-style party with Out of the Blue. 16280 Main St., Guerneville. 7pm. $15. 707.869.0501.

Midwinter’s Night Masked Ball Dress-up extravaganza features dinner, dancing, Champagne, caviar bar, desserts and more lusciousness. Sonoma Valley Museum of Art, 551 Broadway, Sonoma. 8pm. $250. 707.939.SVMA.

Mc T’s Bullpen NYE with folk Angelina from 6pm. Champagne at midnight. 16246 First St., Guerneville. 9:30pm. Free. 707.869.3377.

Mother to Mother New Year’s party benefit for Sonoma Valley nonprofit looks to be one of the most off-the-cuff and fun party of the night, naturally including burlesque and DJ dance party. Pre-party offers dinner and rock-and-roll bingo with prizes. Andrews Hall, Sonoma Community Center, 276 E Napa St., Sonoma. Pre-party at 7:30pm; dance at 9:30pm. Party, $25 –$30; pre-party, call for info and reservation. 415.250.6534.

Murphy’s Irish Pub New Year begins on Irish time at 3pm with Celtic strains of Greenhouse; at 9pm, it’s a NorCal New Year with Carrtunes. 464 First St., Sonoma. 707.935.0660.

New Year’s Eve Ball Ballroom, Latin and swing dancing plus treats, Champagne and favors. Reservation required. Monroe Dance Hall, 1400 W. College Ave., Santa Rosa. 8:30pm. $55; includes appetizers. 707.529.2824.

New Year’s Eve Dinner Dance Sons of Italy Petaluma hosts prime rib and ravioli dinner with dancing to Dry Creek Band, continental breakfast after midnight, hats and noisemakers. Reservation required by Dec 27. Petaluma Veterans Center, 1094 Petaluma Blvd. S., Petaluma. 6pm. $45. 707.763.4626.

New Year’s Eve with Schulz Museum Bring the little ones down to make root beer and party blowers to toast the New Year, plus candy collage and Snoopy crafts. Charles M. Schulz Museum, 2301 Hardies Lane, Santa Rosa. 10am –3pm. $5 –$8. 707.579.4452.

NYE at Safari West Celebrate this New Year’s under the watchful gaze of four-footed animals with dinner and dancing. Advance purchase required. Safari West, 3115 Porter Creek Road, Santa Rosa. 7:30pm. $80. 707.579.2551.

Papa’s Taverna Go Greek for the New Year at riverside party with live music and dancing by Yanni and Yorg. 5688 Lakeville Hwy., Petaluma. Dinner, 7pm; music from 8pm. $75, includes meal, Champagne, party favors, music. 707.769.8545.

Pink Elephant Fun and fireworks with the always-rockin’ Thugz. 9895 Main St., Monte Rio. 9pm. Free. 707.865.0500.

Russian River Brewing Co. Free grown-up fun with HugeLarge and the Black Sheep Belly Dance troupe. 725 Fourth St., Santa Rosa. 8pm. Free; 21 and over only. 707.545.BEER.

Sebastopol Peace Party Dancing, singing, celebrating with artists plus meditation room, intention altar, labyrinth walk and midnight “Imagine” sing-along. Sebastopol Community Center, 390 Morris St., Sebastopol. 7pm. $10 –$20. 707.823.1511.

Sky Lounge Live jazz with the cracklin’ sugar of Brulee. 2200 Airport Blvd., Ste. 143, Santa Rosa. 707.542.9400.

Sless, Vega, White, Molo & Thomas

New Year’s Eve show benefits Legal Aid of Sonoma County with jams from Barry Sless (David Nelson Band, Phil and friends), Bobby Vega (Tower of Power), Ray White (Frank Zappa), John Molo (Phil and friends, Bruce Hornsby) and JT Thomas (Bruce Hornsby). Ages 18 and over. Odd Fellows Hall, 195 N. Main St. (upstairs), Sebastopol. 9pm. $35; cash only. ax*@***ic.net.

Singles New Year’s Eve Bash Society of Single Professionals hosts dance party for single adults of all ages. Flamingo Resort Hotel, 2777 Fourth St., Santa Rosa. 9pm. $20. 415.507.9962.

Spancky’s NYE bash with Vanilla Funk. 8201 Old Redwood Hwy., Cotati.10pm. Free. 707.664.0169.

Sparkle! New Year’s Eve dance party for LGBTQ community and friends with hors d’oeuvres, bubbly and DJ Lori Z. Benefits Positive Images. Come early for three-course dinner. Alice’s Restaurant, 101 S. Main St., Sebastopol. Dinner, 8:30 –10pm; party, 9pm –2am. Party, $30 –$35; dinner, $25 –$30. 707.829.3212.

Susan Comstock Swingtet Jazz, Latin, swing, blues, fun. Eat there or just come for the party. French Garden Restaurant, 8050 Bodega Ave., Sebastopol. 9pm. $30 –$100. 707.824.2030.

Tradewinds Party with Bobby Young Project. 8210 Old Redwood Hwy., Cotati. 9:30pm. $25. 707.795.7878.

Twin Oaks Tavern Outnumbered party with bubbly, food, favors and free car rides home for locals. 5745 Old Redwood Hwy., Penngrove. 707.795.5118.

Marin

Costume Arts Ball Family-friendly costume party themed for the Roaring Twenties includes jazz band, games, prizes, cabaret and more speakeasy fun. Call for details or to help. Fairfax Pavilion, Elsie Lane, Fairfax. 8pm –1am. $10; kids under six, free. 415.624.3637.

Eat New Orleans dance party with Snakebite and Ninth Ward Millionaires, straight outta the Big Easy. 218 Sir Francis Drake Blvd., San Anselmo. 9:30pm. $20. 415.453.8600.

Finnegan’s Marin NYE party at the pub. 877 Grant Ave., Novato. When you show. Free. 415.899.1516.

Fourth Street Tavern Funk it up with Surreal. 711 Fourth St., San Rafael. 9:30pm. $5. 415.456.4828.

New Year’s Eve for Kids Optional overnighter for party with face-painting, food, live music, movies and more. Mill Valley Community Center, 180 Camino Alto, Mill Valley. From 5pm. 415.830.3615.

Nick’s Cove Plan to stay over for this first annual NYE bash, this year featuring the Big Skin Band. 23240 Hwy. 1, Marshall. 8pm. $75, includes prix fixe meal. 415.663.1033.

19 Broadway Club Rockabilly and funk party with Chrome Johnson and Vinyl. 19 Broadway, Fairfax. 9pm. $45 –$50. 415.459.1091.

Old Western Saloon Make it a Pt. Reyes night with the Bluebellies. Main Street, Pt. Reyes Station. 9pm. $15 –$20. 415.663.1661.

142’s New Year’s Eve Bash Send it off right with political satirist Will Durst’s Big Fat Year End Kiss Off and dancing to Mitch Woods and His Rocket 88’s. 142 Throckmorton Theatre, 142 Throckmorton Ave., Mill Valley. 8pm. $60. 415.383.9600.

Peri’s Silver Dollar Jeb’s Twangin’ New Year’s Party with party favors, Champagne and actual guaranteed “fun.” 29 Broadway, Fairfax. 9:30pm. $15. 415.459.9910.

Rafters Grille The night begins at 7pm with jazz by Robin DuBois; at 10pm, hop it up with the R&B and ’70s sound of the Beat Meters. 812 Fourth St., San Rafael. 415.453.4200.

Sabor of Spain Party with About Face while feasting on Spanish treats. 1303 Fourth St., San Rafael. $30 –$45. 415.457.8466.

Spirit Rock Join hosts Wes Nisker and Nina Wise for a New Year’s Eve celebration at Spirit Rock, featuring drumming by master percussionist Barbara Borden and dance music by 5Rhythms DJ diva Davida Taurek. Spirit Rock, 5000 Sir Francis Drake Blvd., Woodacre. 8pm. $40 –$80, sliding scale; plus, donation for teachers. 415.488.0164.

Station House Cafe Teja Gerkin plays stunning finger-style guitar in the bar. 11180 State Route 1, Pt. Reyes Station. 6:30pm. Free. 415.663.1515.

Zydeco Flames Red-hot Cajun dance party at the Rancho Nicasio. Town Square, Nicasio. 9pm. $35 –$45. 415.662.2219.

Napa

Ana’s Cantina Dancing to DJ Miguel. 1205 Main St., St Helena. 707.963.4921.

Calistoga Inn R&B music with Lunatic Fringe. 1250 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga. 9pm. $4. 707.942.4101.

Dance in the New Year Ballroom Dancers Inc. present dance party and buffet with music by Tom Leops Band. Napa Senior Center, 1500 Jefferson St., Napa. 8pm. $37.50. 707.258.9928.

Downtown Joe’s DJ dancing to Top 40 and oldies, as well as balloon drop, dinner specials and more. 9pm. Free. 902 Main St., Napa. 707.258.2337.

Fire & Ice New Year’s Eve party starts with four-course dinner and heads to dessert buffet, dancing to Five Point O, midnight Champagne toast and bistro buffet. Culinary Institute of America, 2555 Main St., St. Helena. Two dinner seatings, 6:30pm and 9pm. $195. 707.967.2337.

Hydro Bar & Grill Plans not solidified at press time, but worth taking a peek in. 1403 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga. 707.942.9777.

Masquerade Ball Étoile Restaurant at Domaine Chandon hosts over-the-top New Year’s Eve celebration. Dress in masquerade attire and welcome the New Year in a charade. The horn-heavy Blue Moon Band plays Motown, rock and R&B. Domaine Chandon, 1 California Drive, Yountville. 9pm. $275. 800.736.2892.

Napa Valley Wine Train Appetizers, free-flowing wines and jazz music mark reception before boarding train for full dinner. 1275 McKinstry St., Napa. 4:30pm. $200 –$225. 800.427.4124.

Beyond

New Year’s Eve Spectacular Blast out the old year with music by Bell Brothers, SK2, Bill Noteman and Rockets and Bay Area Big Band plus buffet dinner, cocktails, bubbly and party favors. Konocti Harbor Resort, 8727 Soda Bay Road, Kelseyville. $250 –$550. 800.660.LAKE.




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Houses and Grapes

12.26.07

There’s this saying in Napa that “the city is for houses; the country, for grapes.” Should two Napa developers get their way, thousands of new homes will grow like gargantuan grape clusters within sight of Napa’s world-renowned South County vineyards. Picture 3,200 units rising up seven stories from an industrial property, while just beyond the city limits to the west, 1,000 standalone houses get planted on the side of Highway 29. In total, these two unaffiliated developments could cover almost 300 acres of presently unincorporated county lands near the Carneros AVA, just south of Napa’s current city limits. To no one’s surprise, and for a rainbow of reasons, these two proposed developments have rubbed many a Napan nerve raw.

With not a single dwelling from either proposed development yet unveiled, Napan public opinion is nonetheless fomenting a rebellion. At least four local groups have organized and jumped into the fray. Accusations are mounting and fingers pointing at a supposedly faceless group with an implied hidden agenda sequestered behind a Responsible Growth Initiative; at an old Napa clan teaming up with area horsemen; at politicians and political chicanery; and, wouldn’t you know it, at lips whispering rumors of good ol’ filthy Getty family lucre.

But is any of this what it seems to be?

Pipe Fit In

In one corner there’s the 152-acre, 4,200-unit Napa Pipe project, headed up by Keith Rogal, the developer who, with his San Francisco-based Napa Redevelopment Partners LLC, previously gave us the $70 million Carneros Inn. Exactly who’s involved in their roster of investment partners is a matter of grand speculation. Rogal’s group purchased the former Napa Pipe industrial property from Oregon Steel Mills Inc., in 2005 for close to $42 million. Naturally, with Rogal’s previous ties to Gordon Getty via the Carneros Inn development, rumors of Getty backing Rogal’s efforts abound. Could Getty’s protégé and business associate San Francisco mayor Gavin Newsom, also have a stake? These are questions that will be answered later. Keith Rogal hadn’t returned calls as this story went to press.

Ed Henderson, who’s both a former Napa city mayor and a former Napa County supervisor, is officially on the Rogal team. Henderson’s approachable and amiable, but he admits that he’s a tad short on Napa Pipe specifics. He will say that a sizable share of the Napa Pipe housing units would fall in the relatively affordable $350,000 to $400,000 range, and they’d try to make them available to first-time local homebuyers, teachers, policemen, et al. “I don’t want to have a valley where only people who can afford a $2 million home can live,” Henderson says.

Annex This

West across Highway 29’s great divide and north of the Carneros Highway, a second mammoth development is moving forward. The Ghisletta family, headed by brothers Joe and Steve Ghisletta, has farmed in Napa Valley for a century. The family has considerable real estate holdings throughout the county and a reputation for being good neighbors. Unlike Napa Pipe, their slated development stands inside the rural urban limit, meaning it’s ripe for annexation into the city of Napa. That’s a decided advantage in moving their development plans forward. The Ghisletta project covers 142 acres just off Foster Road, upon which they hope to build 1,000 houses. Ghisletta’s 110 dairy farm acres are to be combined with 32 acres of Napa Valley Horseman’s Association land for this development.

Ghisletta’s received “qualified support” from Get a Grip on Growth, a group headed by Eve Kahn. Get a Grip previously opposed Keith Rogal’s Carneros Inn development. Staying consistent, they now oppose his Napa Pipe proposal as well.

Ghisletta’s plan faces tough opposition from Save Foster Road, a group led by Linda Cavalli and Craig Isham. More than 200 Foster Road residents recently crowded into Snow Elementary School to voice their concerns and to grill Napa assistant city manager Dana Smith and the city’s senior planner, Jean Hasser. According to a Nov. 13 article in the Napa Valley Register, there were cat-calls of “fait accompli” and “double talk” by angry residents when the two city reps claimed “it was almost a given that the Local Agency Formation Commission will approve the annexation application early next year.”

Dana Smith went on to say, “That land [Ghisletta’s] is slated in the city’s general plan to be developed for homes like yours.” Smith and Hasser asked the group to save their questions until the Ghisletta property has gone through annexation, assuring them that there would then be ample opportunity to lodge their concerns. Needless to say, this went over rather poorly with those in attendance.

Rural Growth Oxymoron

Myriad government and quasi-government organizations are or will come into play should these two projects move forward. One is the Association of Bay Area Governments, a seemingly innocuous compendium of surrounding counties that possesses a propensity to strong-arm counties that it esteems don’t provide enough housing, affordable or otherwise. The association is pressuring Napa County to meet new mandated housing numbers. The county has been sued and a judgment rendered. It appears this settlement is motivating the county to provide new homes, the rub being that they’ll do whatever they can to keep housing development out of upvalley, where decades of ag preserve activism makes plain a strong North County preference for vines in the valley and trees on the hills over homes placed anywhere. (Except for maybe in Angwin, but that’s another story.)

Sure, it sounds crazy. Anti-development Republicans? What about God Almighty’s GOP decree on inalienable, indisputable and absolutely incontestable property-ownership rights? Surely no true greenback-blooded Repub’s gonna risk eternal impoverishment futzing with that decree. Unless, of course, these reputed GOP-growth-initiative types harbor some secret get-even-richer scheme requiring they liquidate their developmental opposition. And that opposition, it’s been charged, is Keith Rogal’s Napa Pipe development.

The Responsible Growth Initiative (RGI) aims to strictly enforce Napa County’s 1 percent growth cap and to limit construction of buildings to heights of three stories. It’s clearly aimed at Rogal’s Napa Pipe development but, curiously, doesn’t address Ghisletta’s. Because of this, and according to reportage in the Napa Valley Register, the initiative’s spokesperson James Marshall refuses to say who the “friends and associates” joining him in the initiative campaign are, rumors once again abound. Some clearly sense the work of a shadowy right-wing conspiracy.

After all, the initiative’s hired-gun signature gatherer is Mike Arno, the man behind recent attempts to split California’s Electoral College vote to benefit the state’s Republican minority. Arno’s made a career pushing divisive measures, like the 2004 initiative to ban gay marriage in Ohio. Some speculate that the Ghislettas stand to personally benefit from the initiative’s anti-Pipe shenanigans. The Napa Valley Register recently ran a series of articles and a good many reader comments implying the “anonymous” RGI group, by hiring GOP-dynamo Arno & Associates, have themselves proved that no good is afoot.

There’s just one problem with this seemingly logical scenario —it’s one mighty load of crap.

Spokesperson for RGI Jim Marshall isn’t shy in letting it be known that he’s “been a registered Democrat all [his] life.” He claims to have never met, spoken to or had even the most informal contact with any of the Ghislettas, though he’d welcome any future support they’d care to provide. Certainly, Arno & Associates don’t come cheap. As far as his group’s anonymity is concerned, Marshall ticked off the names of four local group members — Frank Worthington, Anne Sullivan, Steve Morgan and Kathy Haig —who are with him behind the initiative.

Marshall insists that the RGI is entirely a local grassroots effort that has nothing to hide. He points to the letter he’s penned to the local daily explaining his organization and its motives, a missive that the paper has yet to publish. Furthermore, Marshall says the group’s well-connected political consultant, former South Bay wheeler-dealer Victor Ajlouny, was the gentleman who brought Arno aboard.

According to Marshall, the real motivation behind the RGI stemmed from his realization that the Napa Pipe development would create “a population the size of St. Helena and Yountville combined —about 10,000 people —and plunk them right down at the gateway of Napa Valley, where we already have a terrible traffic problem. It’s totally inconsistent with what Napa is all about.”

Development issues beg the question: Does Napa actually need all these homes?

Bye-Bye Middle Class

Consider the latest stats: According to the National Association of Home Builders, Napa now ranks as the No. 1 least affordable metro area in the United States. California clocks in with nine of the top 10 states, with fully 23 of the 26 least affordable metros nationwide, Napa being the least affordable of them all. Put another way, metro Napa is the absolute worst middle-class homebuying market in our entirely inequitable and grossly unaffordable state.

Unaffordable to whom, exactly? Well, let’s say you’re a “typical” family of four making the median income for the Napa area —about $75,000 a year. What are your percentile chances of buying a Napa-area home —new, used or set to scrape? Try 3.3 percent.

That’s right, a Napa median-income family has a better chance of locating, finagling from and financing Santa’s entire North Pole operation, elves, sleigh and all, than landing a humble abode in Napa.

Meaning the vast majority of folks who work there don’t and can’t live there. Not full-time cops, not firefighters, not school teachers, not blue collar industrial workers, city, county or nonprofit agency employees, not car mechanics, and certainly not winery or vineyard workers.

Not any, in fact, of our ballyhooed and once celebrated middle class.


First Bite

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12.26.07

Editor’s note: First Bite is a new concept in restaurant writing. This is not a go-three-times, try-everything-on-the-menu report; rather, this is a quick snapshot of a single experience. We invite you to come along with our writers as they —informed, intelligent eaters like yourselves —have a simple meal at an area restaurant, just like you do.

On Peter Lowell’s website, there’s a chart that seems to represent some sort of great cosmic message. It’s a circle with “West County,” “Biodynamic Winery,” “Local Farm” and other feel-good terms hanging like bracelet charms around it. Click on the words and the secrets are revealed. With “Coffee Cooperative,” a link pops up, explaining that the restaurant uses Fazenda Santa Terezinha’s Brazilian beans and why. Same for “local farm” (the bistro supports sustainable-organic growers) and “winery” (green practices).

The cafe promises Italian-inspired healthy fare that changes constantly with the seasons and what’s fresh each day; there’s seafood and cheese but no meat, and everything is artisan or heirloom and homemade.

It’s all about community, the website reminds us, and why not? Most of this food is as enjoyable as it is earth-saving.

It can be confusing, though. One evening, I stood at the counter trying to order dinner. Nightly choices aren’t written on the very abbreviated printed menu or chalkboard over the deli case. A staffer tried to explain them in rapid fire: marinated roasted crab with winter greens; Matsutake-chanterelle risotto with goat cheese; pappardelle pasta with fried eggplant and ricotta salata in marinara. I think.

Except that the staffer kept forgetting ingredients and kept getting interrupted by guests lined up behind me, asking, “What was that?” “How is that prepared?” and “What is [insert obscure vegetable/grain/meat substitute here]?”

I defaulted to two menu-printed dishes I could simply point at: a pizza of rapini, tempeh, cannellini beans, rosemary and fontina ($13), plus a salad of punterella (a bitter Italian green like Belgian endive) braised with garlic, chile and capers finished with Pecorino Romano and organic EVOO ($5).

The kitchen can be uneven. The pizza was good, thin-crusted and crackly from an 800-degree oven with an intriguing blend of textures and a not unpleasant nutty-acrid tang. Unfortunately, the salad was so extraordinarily bitter and terribly oversalted that even the capers sent up a white flag.

At lunch a few days later, I found that a Reuben ($6) —wasn’t. Instead, it featured excellent toasted dark rye cradling mounds of house made crunchy sauerkraut laced with thin shards of marinated, peppered, grilled seitan under Gruyère and thin, zingy “Russian River” dressing. A tuna melt ($6) is more straightforward, piled with chunked dark albacore, ceci beans (chickpeas) and Gruyère on superb crisp-crusted sourdough.

Gemischte salat ($5) is beautiful, tumbling baby lettuces colored like fall leaves among radish moons and sunflower seeds in crystal-bright cilantro vinaigrette, while another salad of heirloom chicories ($5) is a portrait of winter with sliced local apples, sweet almonds and crumbles of Point Reyes blue cheese glistening in vinaigrette.

Ultimately, what’s a little chaos and imbalance in this crazy world? Peter Lowell’s is a very welcome addition to the West County cosmos.

Peter Lowell’s, 7385 Healdsburg Ave., Sebastopol. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Monday-Friday; lunch and dinner, Saturday-Sunday. 707.829.1077.


Quick-and-dirty dashes through North Bay restaurants. These aren’t your standard “bring five friends and order everything on the menu” dining reviews.

Sing in the New

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music & nightlife |

Still: The O’Jays knew it’s all nothing without love.

By Bruce Robinson

When it comes to musical seasonal celebrations, New Year’s gets short shrift. Christmas has round-the-clock radio formats dedicated to it for weeks at a time each year, but Father Time’s annual appearance rates, at best, a few hours of build-up to a countdown that’s over in mere seconds.

And then they play the Song.

Yeah, that one. Not only is “Auld Lang Syne” generally expected to do all the harmonic heavy lifting for New Year’s Eve, but even before the Champagne goes flat, we’ve pretty much exhausted the musical highlights for the entire month. Sure, Stevie Wonder’s got an upbeat birthday tune for Dr. King mid-month, and Merle Haggard anticipated “better times” in January in “If We Make It Through December,” but really, is that the best we can do for the only month in the entire year that actually begins with a holiday?

Well, no.

There are, in fact, a handful of songs that speak quite specifically to New Year’s and the traditions that attend the rollover of our 12-month cycle. An informal, and no doubt incomplete, survey of the available resources has identified the following:

U2, ‘New Year’s Day’ Devoid of holiday sentiment, this anthemic tune from the band’s early War album powerfully contrasts personal commitment (“I will be with you again”) with an external world in which “nothing changes on New Year’s Day.”

‘What Are You Doing New Year’s Eve?’ The closest thing to a contemporary New Year’s song, this smooth Frank Loesser ballad was covered by Johnny Mathis, Ella Fitzgerald, Nancy Wilson and Nat “King” Cole waaay back in the day, then got a soulful instrumental by saxman King Curtis in 1968. It was also covered by more recent artists as diverse as Diana Krall, Holly Near, Lee Ann Womack (and rendered vapid by Barry Man-I-Loathe, but we’ll ignore that) and recently revived in these parts by the Christmas Jug Band.

Otis Redding and Carla Thomas, ‘New Year’s Resolution’ Both singers were at the top of their game when they cut their only album together, which included this slow-burning ballad. A definitive performance that doubtless daunted others from attempting the tune.

The Zombies, ‘This Will Be Our Year’ This track from the Zombies’ overlooked 1967 psychedelic pop masterpiece Odessy and Oracle is a wistful plea for better times in the year ahead. Who can’t relate?

The Eagles, ‘Funky New Year’ The B-side to a quickie holiday single in 1978 (“Please Come Home for Christmas” was the flip), this Henley-Frey original ranks among the least interesting tunes they ever wrote. Sample lyric: “Woke up this morning, I don’t know how / Last night I was a happy man but the way I feel right now / It’s gonna be a . . .” Sure enough, they broke up in ’79.

Graham Parker, ‘New Year’s Revolution’ The feisty post-punk singer took his turn with a holiday EP in 1994, which featured this deservedly obscure call for “a New Year’s revolution . . . of love.” Hey, it fits the theme.

Spike Jones and His City Slickers, ‘Happy New Year’ Spike was a 1940s bandleader whose comedic ensemble favored break-neck tempos, whip-crack timing and a kaleidoscope of silly sound effects. In this holiday hoot, all of Jones’ featured vocalists take a turn spoofing seasonal sentiments. Cut in 1942, it holds up surprisingly well 65 years later.

Lee Perry, ‘Merry Christmas, Happy New Year’ Reggae treatments of snow-filled Christmas songs are approaching cliché, but this sunny slice of all-inclusive holiday cheer is anything but. The upbeats chuck merrily along as featured singer Sandra Robinson repeats the title over ace producer Lee “Scratch” Perry’s cheerfully bubbly backing track.

The O’Jays, ‘Christmas Ain’t Christmas, New Year’s Ain’t New Year’s Without the One You Love’ The title quotes the entire chorus, so there’s no surprise to the bittersweetness of this holiday lament. The Gamble-Huff tune gets their full Philly Soul production, and the O’Jays were at their silky best on this 1969 track.

And that’s pretty much it. Still, New Year’s Eve easily trumps the next traditional holiday on the calendar just 32 days later, one that has its own movie but not its own song —Groundhog Day.




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Imagine 2008

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12.26.07

If you only had three or four words to encapsulate the moment when ’60s idealism gave way, the short phrases “No end in sight,” “Read my lips” or “Four more years!” would certainly spring to mind. Far more poignant, however, are “Hey, Mr. Lennon!”

I was only 11 months old the day Mark Chapman greeted John Lennon with those words and then shot him five times in the back with a .38 revolver. Because my parents shared Lennon’s music with me at an early age, his death has always hit me as something I had as much a right to cry over as any of the kids who gathered outside the Dakota on Dec. 7, 1980, to mourn the passing of their hero.

In the 1988 documentary Imagine: John Lennon, one fan describes the Beatles as something that “belongs to us.” With his quiet, revolutionary protests (you won’t see George and Laura Bush going to bed for peace any time soon) and determination to stand up to the forces of oppression, this is doubly so of John Lennon. Twenty-seven years after his death, his like has not been seen again, and the absence of a public figure both hip, edgy and intelligent remains one of the key reasons the youth movement has stagnated in the face of George W. Bush’s monstrous war-without-end.

John Lennon wasn’t a saint. Like most rock stars of the era, he drank, smoked pot, did heroin, was promiscuous and pissed off his former band mates when he went solo. His damaged psyche is on view for anyone who listens to his post-Beatles albums (“Mother” from Plastic Ono Band springs immediately to mind). It is exactly this kind of flawed humanity, however, that made him a legend. While admitting outright that he was “just a jealous guy,” Lennon captured the adoration of millions and did something no rock star or politician has been able to do before or since: he made peace cool.

“War Is Over! If You Want It” read the billboards he and Yoko Ono posted over New York in 1969. Such simple words, but they were heard. That same year, Lennon was included with JFK and Mao Zedong on ITV’s Man of the Decade special —and the American government began a campaign of harassment against him that would culminate in an attempt to have him deported and, eventually (believe it!), result in his tragic and untimely death.

Today, nothing like Lennon’s galvanizing presence exists for the generation coming of age in the shadow of Iraq. This is due in part to apathy. As Stephen Colbert recently quipped of my generation’s “efforts” to fight governmental tyranny, the best we can do is “make the Man sorry he ever visited your blog!” A revolution is dependent on many things, but one of the most essential ingredients is a charismatic figurehead, and despite some noble humanitarian efforts on our behalf, it’s hard to see someone like Sting or Bono telling Bush to fuck off.

Where he once penned “Pride (In the Name of Love),” Bono has begun cultivating a diplomatic relationship with the White House and, in his latest Rolling Stone interview, maintains his naïve optimism about our ability to overcome the chaos of the Bush years.

I doubt Lennon would have made nice with Bush. Then again, unlike Bono, Lennon wasn’t a rock star playing a diplomat. He was a revolutionary and a poet who could also play the guitar. Fame helped Lennon’s cause, but his true magic was in the way he made himself accessible as a person. When a troubled young man wandered onto his property looking for a god, Lennon not unkindly told him that “god” was just a man like anyone else. There was no artifice to Lennon. No leather-jacket gloss. And certainly no political correctness, a phenomenon that has now hampered the political dialogue to the point of impotence.

If John Lennon’s one contribution to the world had been his ethereal “Imagine,” with its haunting piano and simple, searing lyrics (“Imagine all the people / Living life in peace”), he would have done his job as an artist and a human being. But his ideas, especially the conviction that peace, not war, is the solution, remain a legacy to shame that of our plastic politicians.

Lacking a leader of his caliber, I suppose those of us still longing for peace have no choice but to become Lennon ourselves. John never waited for anyone to give him permission. Whether facing down skeptical reporters or posing naked on the cover of Two Virgins, he always did what was in his heart and did it with an honesty sadly unheard of in this day and age.

I hope some day we’ll join him. And I’m not the only one.


Love Is the Answer?

12.22.07

I speak with Debra Birkinshaw, member of the Sebastopol Green Sangha, over tea. This seems very “sangha-ish” to me, though I’m not completely sure if that’s at all true as I have never been to a sangha and am not, at this point, exactly sure what one is or even how to spell it. What I do know, however, is that this is the holiday season, a time of excess and longing, and that even during the best of years, many of us come out of Christmas reeling as if we have just come down off of a four-week drug binge, and the hangover is a bitch.

And this is not the best of years. Far from it. This is a year of lingering war and the hovering dread that all cannot possibly be well when the ice caps are melting.

As a board member of the Sonoma County Peace and Justice Center, Birkinshaw is no stranger to activism and community commitment. Recently, her interest in stewardship for the earth led her to the Sebastopol Green Sangha, a politically active spiritual community that offers exactly the sort of direct-action outlet she had been sorely in need of. Birkinshaw and the other Sebastopol Green Sangha members meet on the fourth Sunday of every month to plan and perform environmental action. In the Bay Area, there are Green Sanghas that meet monthly in the East Bay, San Rafael and Sebastopol.

Birkinshaw stresses that, though the Sebastopol Green Sangha begins each three-hour meeting with about 10 minutes of stretching and meditation, concrete spiritual belief systems are by no means a prerequisite. All are welcome. Green Sanghas are run by everyone and there must be group consensus and agreement before an action can move forward. The meetings shift from living room to living room. This is a place where people come together to learn and share, not direct and dictate.

After the meditation, members review an agenda of available actions, write and send letters of concerned protest, and plan environmental actions that any and all can participate in. According to Birkinshaw, the Sebastopol Green Sangha comes together as a think-tank and support system, and even seemingly small actions have impact, like writing to the city council requesting the return of public drinking fountains, or standing outside of Whole Foods dressed in recycled plastic bags, encouraging shoppers to bring their own bags. Each meeting ends in a potluck dinner, creating community the old-fashioned way, with plenty of local bounty and full stomachs.

On the Green Sangha website, I find a mission statement: “Green Sangha brings spiritual practice and environmental work together. Our practice is to love without boundaries. Our mission is to bring healing to ourselves, one another and the earth through thoughts, words and actions rooted in love.” Is love really the answer?

Green Sangha actions, evaluated individually, may not be enough to save us from extinction, but they speak to a form of mindfulness that may be our only hope. The New Year looms, and even I, who wear my agnosticism like a favorite hair-coat, must be willing to experiment with new ways for achieving change. To this end, a Green Sangha seems a most welcoming and fruitful place to begin.

For more information on the Sebastopol Green Sangha, contact Debra Birkinshaw at co********@*****il.com. For more information on the East Bay or San Rafael Green Sangha, or to learn how to start your own, go to www.greensangha.org or call 510.532.6574.


Top Torn Tix

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12.26.07

At the close of each year, I observe a little ritual by which I determine which 10 shows I’ve seen are the best and brightest theatrical memories of the last 12 months. First, I take down the cigar box in which I keep all of the torn ticket stubs I’ve collected in my adventures in and out of theaters and concert halls across the North Bay and beyond. From the pile of local productions, I make a quick division between those I’m glad I saw and those I’d rather have been getting warts removed than sit through.

Finally, I hold each stub, remember the play in as much detail as possible, and ask myself this question: If I could only have seen 10 plays this year, which 10 would they be? And then I ask, If I could only have seen nine plays, eight plays, seven plays —all the way down to the big question: If I could only have seen one play this year, which one would I want it to have been?

For 2007, a year that packed my cigar box to near overflowing with torn tickets from more than 60 plays, 45 movies and 27 concerts, this ritual has not been easy. With so many good shows on the local boards, there have been far fewer stubs in my wart-removal pile than usual, making the elimination all the more difficult. Some, like Pacific Alliance Stage Company’s Moon Over Buffalo and You’re a Good Man, Charlie Brown, or the Sonoma County Repertory Theater’s As You Like It and the Sixth Street Playhouse’s The Big Bang and Top Dog, along with Narrow Way Stage Company’s youthquake version of Julius Caesar, only narrowly missed being included. Making such choices is a good problem, and we in the North Bay who attend live theater know how fortunate we are to have so much passionate, magical and well-acted theater to choose from.

Here are my top 10 torn tickets of 2007:

1. Marin Theatre Company, ‘Frozen’ No play I saw this year, anywhere, shook me and moved me as much as Bryony Lavery’s stunningly humane drama Frozen. Directed for MTC last January by the great Amy Glazer, the gorgeously written drama follows the intense and evolving relationship between a murderer (Rod Gnapp), his victim’s mother (Lorri Holt) and the psychologist sent to study him (Stacy Ross). Written with intricate attention to detail, staged with compassion and wit, acted with such brilliance I found myself watching in open-mouthed wonder, this play accomplished the near-impossible task of taking a deeply ugly subject and turning it into something achingly lovely and unexpectedly, unforgettably beautiful.

2. Marin Theatre Company, ‘Love Song’ The Marin Theatre Company struck again with September’s unveiling of John Kolvenbach’s sneaky-smart Love Song, a strange, funny and poetic play about a terrified, emotionally unstable, near-agoraphobic man named Beane (Darren Bridgett), who is transformed into a sense-hungry lover of life after a bizarre encounter with Molly (Jody Flader), a sexy burglar who may or may not exist. Directed by Jasson Minadakis with a sensitive feel for the delightfully weird, slightly surreal language Kolvenbach cooks up for his characters, this was a play about love that was crazy and wise all at the same time.

3. Mountain Play, ‘Hair’ Jim Dunn is the best director of musicals working in the North Bay, and his exuberant reinvention of 1967’s Hair worked remarkably well inside the massive amphitheater where the annual Mountain Play is staged. With a magical realism ending that electrified Sunday afternoon audiences of some 3,000, Dunn’s eye for spectacle was perfectly suited to the 40-year-old rock musical about hippies wrestling with life, death, love and reality during the Summer of Love. The young cast beautifully resurrected the manic-depressive spirit of the 1960s, as Dunn took a play that could have been dated and ridiculous and turned into something fresh, immediate and emotionally satisfying.

4. Cinnabar Theatre, ‘Enchanted April’ In May, Petaluma’s Cinnabar Theater staged one of the most magical and tenderly funny romances of the year with Matthew Barber’s literate and charming adaptation of Elizabeth von Arnim’s classic romantic novel Enchanted April. Directed by Elizabeth Craven with a nice balance of comedy and pathos, April tells the gently subversive story of four very different English women who find themselves evolving into better people while sharing a rented castle in Italy. Danielle Cain, Molly Noble, Tim Kniffin, Dodds Delzell, Laura Lowry, Carol Mayo-Jenkins and Elly Lichenstein all shined, sometimes literally, in this lovably sweet-spirited show.

5. Summer Repertory Theatre, ‘Working’ Last summer, James Newman took the reins of SRJC’s annual Summer Repertory Theatre, and dazzled us with his energetic production of Studs Terkel’s seldom-seen 1978 musical, Working. With a strong cast and vibrant visual style, this tuneful celebration of working-class people might have been plotless, but it was far from pointless. From start to finish, Working rocked hard.

6. alterTheater of Marin, ‘Catherine’s Care’ Last February, under the care and feeding of San Rafael’s eccentric alterTheater company, actor-playwright Robert Ernst unveiled a lively little play about the tail end of life, a playful, surreal, experimental musical about the final days of a once-independent woman, Catherine (a wonderful Jenna Johnson), who finds herself examining the details of her life as she surrenders the care of her failing body to others. The difficult material, in Ernst’s hands, ended up being simultaneously moving and funny.

7. Cinnabar Theater, ‘Clean House’ In Sarah Ruhl’s dangerously hilarious comedy-drama, we learn that ice cream is what God eats when he’s tired, that it is better to die standing up than lying down and that the perfect joke always lands somewhere between an angel and a fart. Director Tara Blau and a fine cast worked wonders with Ruhl’s giddy play about a brilliant, neatnik doctor whose surgeon husband has fallen in love with an elderly mastectomy patient, and whose cleaning lady would rather think up jokes than clean. The wordplay alone was worth the price of admission.

8. Sonoma County Repertory Theater, ‘Bullshot Crummond’ My sides still hurt from laughing so hard as director Squire Fridell presented the deliriously idiotic play Bullshot Crummond last January. A spoof of pulpy English mysteries, highlights included Dodds Delzell bringing the house down with a meticulously timed bit in which he morphed back and forth and back and forth again from an Italian hit man into the preposterously evil Otto Von Brunno, quick-changing with deceptive ease. As Otto’s wife Lenya, Priscilla Locke did astonishing things with her face, and as the requisite virginal damsel in distress, Jennifer Coté found shades of complication in her character that were likely not dreamed of by the playwrights. Dan Saski, as the detective Bullshot, was dashingly clueless, and Eric Thompson, as a whole slate of people, was magnificently over-the-top and side-splittingly funny. Ouch.

9. Marin Shakespeare Company, ‘The Complete Works of William Shakespeare (abridged)’ In spite of the fact that this is rapidly becoming one of the most overperformed plays in the world (pace yourselves, gentlemen, pace yourselves), the version that opened the Marin Shakespeare Festival found plenty of ways to make the play seem as original and creative and ridiculously inventive as it did when it first appeared on the scene. Under Robert Currier’s direction, Darren Bridgett, Ryan Schmidt and Jarion Monroe were spectacularly foul, and a joke about a beaver, which definitely went too far, was nevertheless hilarious.

10. Sixth Street Playhouse, ‘The Grapes of Wrath’ While John Steinbeck’s grand fever-dream of a novel suffers somewhat from the literary liposuction used to shrink the vast fiction down to two-act size, director Elizabeth Craven’s grand vision of the play helped pump this production back up to epic size. With an old truck pushed here and there onstage, an orchestra pit filled with water to simulate a river, and with real rain falling during the storm scenes, the show had a vigorous visual splendor that was matched by the commitment and intensity of the large, expertly directed cast. Visually impressive, this memorable play stretched the possibilities of what can be done onstage in the North Bay.


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Miracle of Milk

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12.26.07

Splitting his time between Guerneville and Manhattan, acclaimed consultant Clark Wolf graces these pages with the occasional diatribe from the periodic local.

The late, great international journalist-turned-benchmark-food-writer R. W. “Johnny” Apple once referred to our lovely region as “a new Normandy north of the Golden Gate.” Well, we have the oysters and meadows, the dramatic coast and sparkly wines, but what he really meant was that we are major when it comes to cheese. And what better time than in the chilly grip of North Bay winter to get a little well-aged sunshine from sometime last spring —or even clovers and flowers transformed into milk and aged for a year or two, or three?

We have some seriously good cheese-making going on around here.

But unlike Vermont, where their Yankee self-reliance makes it seem like new indie cheeses are rolling to market daily, or Wisconsin, where organic, farmstead specialties fight to bring the state back to creative and qualitative relevance long after we’ve been Cheez-Whizzed into near oblivion, California cheese-making can seem uncharacteristically conservative.

We’re not. It’s just that we’re lucky to have a long tradition of unique and wonderful cheeses to which we’re fairly committed. Some of our favorites are national benchmarks, with their young cousins leading the way in some emerging categories and garnering major prizes from esteemed bodies all over the world.

I’ve blathered on about Laura Chenel’s goat cheese for years, but what’s not commonly known is that the very same tract house in Santa Rosa where she started was also where one of our country’s other highly gifted cheese-makers, Soyoung Scanlan, made her own artisanal leap. Laura moved out to the old Stornetta’s Dairy on Highway 29 (where she still tends goats), and Soyoung has now taken her talents all the way to a hillside outside of Petaluma, overlooking Nan McEvoy’s languorous olive ranch that produces tony oil for better kitchens everywhere.

Soyoung’s heartbreakingly delicious cheeses, from what she calls Andante Dairy, are not readily available even at restaurants (unless you hang out at the French Laundry), but are usually to be found on the menu at the very sweet, quietly accomplished and deeply unique Seaweed Cafe in Bodega Bay, ZaZu in Santa Rosa and at Cyrus in Healdsburg. She names each of them after something musical: Piccolo, Acappella, Impromptu, Metronome and Minuet, to hum a few.

Not far away, the Marin French Cheese Company has been cranking out its own versions of happily stinky, creamy and bloomy-rind cheeses since 1865. It is the oldest, continuously running operation of its kind in the country, and has lately been winning awards left, right and center. I particularly like the hair-tingling (read: slightly smelly) schloss, the triple crème blue and the soft ripened goat. All are consistently good and sometimes transporting.

And then there’s Ignazio (Ig) Vella, who simply seems incapable of making anything less than world-class wonderful cheese. I have personally seen his Dry Jack for sale at London’s fancy Harvey Nichols Food Halls, and I tell you, those Brits were duly, if discreetly, impressed. The last time he made a new cheese it was mezzo secco, a cheese he’d actually made 40 years before. It’s nice to have an archive of excellence.

There are plenty of other good folks making nice cheese down around the ‘hood: Redwood Hill in Sebastopol (love their Camellia); the Matos family in Santa Rosa (delicious St. George); those Cow Girls in West Marin (award-winning Red Hawk, Mt. Tam and some lovely fresh cheeses); and Bellwether in Petaluma. All of which goes to further prove that sometimes celebrating the known and loved is in fact the smartest way a blessed-with-goodness spot like ours can go.

The second annual California Artisanal Cheese Festival, to be held at Petaluma’s Sheraton Sonoma March 7-10 gives folks a chance to broaden, deepen and swallow that celebration as hand-made cheeses for California and throughout the Pacific Northwest are tasted, sampled, talked about and turned into meals with the help of “celebrity” (and also talented, able and pleasant) chefs and a host of experts and cognoscenti. For more information, check out www.artisancheesefestival.com.

For some fireside reading, or to bone up before racing off to ingest dairy protein, here are a few recently published books that are worth a look:

I love the tone of everything Paula Lambert writes. She has that lovely but serious Texas lilt and an infectious enthusiasm for her main passion, cheese-making and making foods with cheese. The latest addition to her collection is ‘Cheese, Glorious Cheese: More than 75 Tempting Recipes for Cheese Lovers Everywhere’ (Simon & Schuster; $26.95).

Our own local pro is the very smart San Francisco Chronicle food contributor Janet Fletcher. While I am not a big fan of the whole wine-and-food-pairing thing (especially with cheese, where it’s usually a case of what’s left in which bottle or glass), her work is solid and her advice is easy to digest. ‘Cheese & Wine: A Guide to Selecting, Pairing and Enjoying’ (Chronicle Books; $24.95).

Finally, Jeffrey Roberts does us all a favor by providing a sort of casin yellow pages in his appealing ‘Atlas of American Artisan Cheese’ (Chelsea Green; $35). It may need regular updating, but at least we know we can keep our local best on speed-dial for years to come.

Clark Wolf is the president of the Clark Wolf Company, specializing in food, restaurant and hospitality consulting.

Hole Thing

(No way does) The cheese stand alone

Andante Dairy Cheeses are available at the Cheese Shop in Healdsburg (423 Center St.; 707.433.4998), Oliver’s Market (now three locations, the newest at Stony Point Road and Highway 12, Santa Rosa), sometimes at the Petaluma Whole Foods (621 E. Washington St.; 707.762.9352) and always at the Mill Valley Whole Foods (414 Miller Ave.; 415.381.1200), as well as at St. Helena’s Dean & Deluca (607 St. Helena Hwy. S.; 707.967.9980).

Bellwether Farms Clark writes, “Their Carmody is really a fairly perfect town cheese like the ones made all over Italy. I particularly favor the raw milk, aged Carmody Reserve, and I love their fresh and creamy Crescenza, the sheep milk Pepato and San Andreas. OK, I like everything they do.” www.bellwethercheese.com.

Cowgirl Creamery This innovative cheesemonger in Pt. Reyes Station helped set the bar for the area, and it’s fun to visit Cowgirl’s outpost in the Tomales Bay Foods center, 80 Fourth St., Pt. Reyes Station. 415.663.9335.

Joe Matos Cheese Factory Located with a small sign on Llano Road just past Todd Road in rural Southwest Santa Rosa, Matos is so unassuming that one naturally assumes it’s a hidden jewel —until the Porsches and BMWs and other city drivers come rumbling down the rutted road, eager for Matos’ inimitable St. George cheese. Cash or check only; not for those who don’t like to know where their cheese comes from. 707.584.5283.

The Marin French Cheese Co. The best way to taste their cheeses is to visit the factory on the Pt. Reyes/Petaluma road. Tours are currently closed to the public but will reopen in good weather; the store and picnic grounds remain open. 7500 Red Hill Road, Petaluma; 800.292.6001, ext. 12. Otherwise, they are widely available at fine markets.

Redwood Hill Farm and Creamery This sustainable goat farm is certified kosher and wins awards for the humane treatment of its animals. Farm tours are available by appointment only (707.823.8250); the cheese is widely distributed or available online at www.redwoodhill.com.

Vella Cheese This standby specializes in Jack cheeses, and Vella’s “historic” store is open six days a week in downtown Sonoma, 315 Second St. E. 707.938.3232. Vella cheeses are otherwise widely available.

Quick dining snapshots by Bohemian staffers.

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Letters to the Editor

12.19.07

Apropos of nothing

In speaking of American heroes, do you know which hero was born in my home country of New Zealand? If you guessed Russell Crowe, that would be right. He is a man of dashing looks, stylish smiles and untouched greatness. The man rose from being one of the most respected persons of the tiny island nation and made his way through to the top of the world. He was born with a passion for animals, mainly goats and horses. A man of principle and a sense of being. He is what we call in my native land “tu meke,” meaning great.

I love his presence. I once had the privilege of meeting him in person, and the only thing he told me after I said hello was, “Aoh, you will go to far places, I can see it.” If you didn’t know yet, some of those words are of Maori dialect, which are the native people of New Zealand, and Russell Crowe is directly related through his great-great-great grandmother. My father’s side has also lived there as far back as we can trace.

So in a way, I would like to say, thank you, Russell Crowe for being a part of me, New Zealand and the rest of the world. As we might say in New Zealand you are my “whanau,” or family. You have changed so many lives, so greatly.

May the light of your passage be my words,

Rex Harigon

Santa Rosa

Mr. Harigon, your sweet letter, arriving out of the blue for no good reason we can fathom other than an irrepressible love for Russell Crowe, tickles us immensely. Thanks for the smiles.

Gold Worthy

I just read the Redacted review and commentary (“See No Evil,” Peter Byrne, Dec. 12). Brilliant! Byrne’s courage shines bright, a lonely light in Sonoma County, for sure. This journalist is worth gold, as are the courageous Bohemian and the Rialto Cinemas Lakeside in Santa Rosa.

Byrne’s hard look at what is going on on the ground south of Baghdad regarding the rape and murder of a 14-year-old and the butchering of her family should disgust the pro-Bush ostriches. Byrne really makes the point that war atrocities go hand in hand with the misguided right-wing war package, whose rules includes undying loyalty to the leader, George W. Bush, and the notion that bombing, raping and butchering the enemy are all OK.

Hooray! Someone lives who has the guts to put into words the real costs of war: slaughtering the enemy while creating brutal, twisted soldiers who will return and apply the neatly packaged rules of war here at home.

Johanna Lynch

Cazadero

Ms. Lynch, your letter was forwarded to Peter Byrne, prompting him to underscore the ‘gold’ aspect of your praise in ongoing professional correspondence with his editor. (We forgive you for this.)

More by Peter can be found in the December issue of ‘Scientific American’ and his eight-page spread on the late physicist Hugh Everett. We hear tell that ‘Sci Am’ is more ready with the gold. Perhaps it’s alchemy . . .

Mail-Order Husband

Richard Coshnear is a traitor to the United States of America (“ICE Raids,” Aug. 29). With 15,000 illegal aliens in Sonoma County, he is doing all he can to confuse the issue for those too dense or too corrupt to see the truth: illegal aliens don’t belong here. The Constitution was written to protect Americans from the government, not illegal aliens from being sent home. With your lies and made-up stories about “bigotry,” you help make us become the victims of illegal alien criminals.

You will always have your commie friends to believe your lies about racism, but it’s so sad that you suck the American sheeple into believing your lies as well. I am the husband and sponsor of a legal immigrant, a real immigrant. You phonies run from the truth so quickly because you are commies and because you exploit the very people you claim to want to help. If there is a hell for liars and hypocrites, you will be there.

Jeff Wilson

Via e-mail

Mr. Wilson, you lowly cur, we do direct your attention to this week’s news story (p9) on the continuing ICE raids and their effect on small children. Those little ones really ought to toughen up!

We also condemn you for stealing our photo of Richard Coshnear and for posting our personal correspondence with you on the Internet. Have a lousy holiday.


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