Letters to the Editor: March 27, 2013

A Letter From Guayakí

We want to first say thank you for the story, and for sharing the joys of your journey into Argentina (“Bottling the Tradition,” Feb. 13). We’ve had much to talk about at Guayakí since reading your article, and wanted the opportunity to express our thoughts and share with you our collective experience.

One line in particular is very interesting to us, towards the end: “Drinking maté isn’t anyone’s birthright; to drink maté is to share.”

We agree with this sentiment; it is this idea that has helped Guayakí evolve from its beginnings as a purely loose-leaf yerba maté distributor to a purveyor of the plant in many forms. This diversification has allowed us to introduce maté to people who may never have discovered it before, and has helped us grow in order to advance our mission of reforesting the Atlantic Rainforest and fostering hundreds of living wage jobs. 

Our work was not the focus and intention of your article, but we wish for you to know that we are not merely paying homage to yerba maté: we are using it as a force to bring people together, and awaken the country to a new business model which allows us to use our dollars to vote for the planet. They are not just efforts, but the foundation of our business, born into our company DNA.

Consider the U.S. energy drink and soda industry, and the chemicals that go into the countless 12-oz. cans lurking on the shelves in your local 7-11 cooler. Think about how many people put the contents of these cans into their bodies, without so much as a thought. Think about the companies involved in this enormous industry, how they produce their product, what their intention is, and the havoc they wreak on a population that can’t stop consuming them.

Now imagine that those consuming these products instead drank yerba maté, and beyond the far superior nutrition and energy they were putting into their bodies, every can and bottle they purchased saved a tree and helped remove carbon dioxide from the atmosphere.

Seem far-fetched? It’s already happening. Each day, we hear from customers all over the country—and more and more parts of the world—who share their stories about how they’ve started drinking yerba maté and have started feeling so much better, in body, mind, and spirit, and have sworn to never go back to drinking the harmful things they once did.

Making the maté available in multiple formats has allowed us to expand upon the loose leaf tradition and bring maté culture to new people in a nonexclusive way. Whether can, bottle, shot, maté bag or gourd, we remain inclusive, and the story is the same: the maté experience brings a feeling of something wonderful.

This, to us, is the heart of the yerba maté tradition. A powerful spirit bringing positive change to all who share it.

The residents of Argentina in your story had many thoughts on the message on our cans and bottles. These are intended for the U.S. audience—many of whom are learning of the plant for the first time. The labeling is not an accident or a marketing gimmick: in this country, we are used to taking our food, and where it comes from, for granted. We urge you to read up on the organic and non-GMO movements, and understand why labeling is an unfortunate necessity in our current food climate. It is when you begin to discover what is behind the food without a label that you will start asking for immediate transparency in your companies.

If you must read so deeply into what we put on our bottles and cans, consider that reading about yerba maté, its history and tradition, is meant to inspire, to get fans to ask questions and imagine the possibilities of the contents of their drink. We’re not going around to Argentinean gourd circles with yerba maté infusion shots and insisting they adopt it as a new world order; that would be like taking your opera-loving grandmother to a metal concert. She’d think it was the worst opera she’d ever heard, run home to crank Pavarotti, and probably cry, but that wouldn’t make metal any less powerful, challenging, or deeply moving to its fans. It’s still music. (Confusing Grams would make a funny article though.)

The vital components of yerba maté remain: we know the plant to be a blessing that transcends gourd and bombilla and connects humans to each other, and to nature, in a way that is unparalleled. It is our mission to bring this gift to everyone, and transforming the plant has allowed us to do this in more ways than there is room to write. 

Perhaps insisting that the gifts of the yerba maté plant should only be experienced as a uniform ritual is a more accurate description of “bottling the tradition.”

Let us know if you would like to come to Guayakí headquarters in Sebastopol to meet us, join our gourd circle, and exchange ideas. We have a warm thermos ready.

Sebastopol

Pledge of Dignity

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Last week, a Press Democrat editorial praised Rep. Jared Huffman for refusing to join colleagues who have promised to “vote against any and every cut to Medicare, Medicaid or Social Security benefits—including raising the retirement age or cutting the cost of living adjustments that our constituents earned and need.” 

What’s going on here?  On Feb. 28, I joined a group of a dozen constituents meeting with Huffman’s district director, urging the congressmember to sign a letter initiated by Representatives Alan Grayson and Mark Takano. That letter includes a promise to vote against any cuts to benefits in those three vital programs. 

Why did we request that our congressmember sign this letter? Republicans and some Democrats in Washington are pushing for cuts to Social Security benefits in cost of living adjustments, as well as raising the Medicare eligibility age. Those changes would directly affect the most vulnerable among us—the elderly and others with low and moderate income, who rely on these earned benefits to provide the basic necessities of life. 

What was Huffman’s response? On his Facebook page a few days later, he stated: “I won’t be bullied from the left or the right into signing Norquistian vote pledges to outside groups.”

I was surprised to see our request characterized as a “Norquistian pledge.” Promising to stand up for the more vulnerable among us is the very opposite of Grover Norquist’s extreme conservative anti-tax pledge. I was even more surprised to see myself portrayed as a bully. As a constituent, I and those with me were participating in the traditional democratic process. 

Why won’t Huffman make this particular promise to his constituents? He has certainly made other promises, such as committing to vote against any infringements on a woman’s right to choose.

Signing the letter would signal in a very strong way to his district that he is committed to fully defending Social Security and Medicare benefits. 

It’s disturbing that Huffman has refused to sign the Grayson-Takano letter. You can ask him to do so at www.pdsonoma.org.

Alice Chan is chair of Progressive Democrats Sonoma County.Open Mic is a weekly op/ed feature in the Bohemian. We welcome your contribution. To have your topical essay of 350 words considered for publication, write op*****@******an.com.

Get Sauced

“We always hear from people sad to see all this fruit falling on the ground and rotting,” says Jolie Devoto Wade, co-owner of Apple Sauced Cider in Sebastopol with her husband, Hunter. And with that, they decided to do something about it: make cider.

The company is inviting Sebastopudlians to harvest those apples before they go bad for a project called Backyard Cider. The idea, says Wade, is to put those apples to good use and donate profits of the resulting brew to Slow Food’s Apple Core Project, which seeks to raise awareness and preserve the heritage Gravenstein apple from extinction. “We kind of wanted to make a political statement and just use Gravensteins,” she says.

Well, there will be the occasional oddball thrown in, but “basically it’s going to be all Gravensteins this time of year.” The variety yields cider with a tart, sweet, tangy flavor and a nice spice. “We have no idea what people planted in their backyards 40 years ago,” says Wade. But the taste “really depends on how you make the cider.”

The company, which sold over 1,000 cases of cider in 2012 and plans to make 5,000 this year to meet demand, will hopefully produce about 200 cases of Backyard Cider, bringing in a few thousand dollars for the Apple Core Project. The company will announce a late August drop-off date soon.

Apple Sauced Cider, 655 Gold Ridge Road, Sebastopol. www.applesaucedcider.com.

Oh, Baby!

Though the U.S. spends more money on maternal health care than any other country, it’s statistically safer to give birth in Cuba, Estonia, and over 40 other nations worldwide. Part of our problem is the fact that nearly one out of every three babies (twice as high as recommended by the World Health Organization) is born by Caesarean section, a leading cause of complications and death in childbirth.

Since its inception in 2008, the nonprofit Better Beginnings for Babies has worked to debunk this trend of pathologizing birth. Led by veteran midwife Rosanne Gephart, who runs the Women’s Health and Birth Center in Santa Rosa, Better Beginnings promotes the idea of “faith and trust that, for most women, pregnancy and birth are normal.” The nonprofit provides emergency doula services to laboring mothers, educates people about birth options and breastfeeding, and helps to fund the lactation clinic, open to all mothers in the community, at the Birth Center.

“Trust the wisdom of your body,” Gephart often told me while pregnant, “it knows what to do.”

This weekend, the community is invited to support Better Beginings’ endeavors at an annual benefit. The event includes dinner, a silent auction, an Easter egg hunt for the kids, and a keynote address by filmmaker David Stark, creator of the popular BabyBabyOhBaby films. The event gets underway on Saturday, March 30, at the Sebastopol Masonic Center. 5pm. $14–$16. 707.539.1544. —Jessica Dur Taylor

Fresh Blood

When he was 11 years old, Angelo Chambrone started washing dishes and bussing tables in his parents’ restaurant, Sweet Lou’s, in Cotati. By the time he was 12, he’d been, as he puts it, “lured into the kitchen.” At 14, Chambrone was training new hires who had two decades on him.

Little wonder, then, that at an age when many people are still figuring out what they want to do when they grow up, Chambrone has already blazed his career path. The executive chef of Barolo in Calistoga is also, at 23, the youngest chef in all of the Napa Valley.

“I like to go to other restaurants,” Chambrone tells me on a recent afternoon, “prepared to get my ass kicked.” Though he’s seen an increase in Barolo’s business since taking over the burners and revamping the menu nearly a year ago, the self-described “old soul” still puts plenty of pressure on himself. His biggest critics are his three older brothers, who all sport the same tattoo of their family name. Their ancestors on both sides are from Calabria in southern Italy—”in the toe of the boot,” Chambrone says, pointing to the tattoo of his motherland on the flip side of his arm.

If all the ink isn’t proof enough, Chambrone’s fierce Italian pride is evident in his food. “My dad makes fun of me for being a purist,” he says, “but I just don’t want to cook or eat anything else.”

Potential diners, be grateful. Chambrone does as little as possible to his ingredients, allowing them—and not extra sauces or cream or butter, which he refuses to cook with—”to speak for themselves.” The olive oil aficionado makes his own ricotta salata, mozzarella, salami, gnocchi, and cavatelli—a drier fresh pasta that he describes as “toothsome”—in-house. “I cook seasonally and source locally,” he tells me, “not because it’s a fad, but because it’s the Italian way.”

Growing up, Chambrone, who was born and raised in Roseland in Santa Rosa, was the kind of picky kid “who always ordered the chicken.” He started working in seventh grade, and by high school was holding down a dizzying schedule of school, football and late nights at the restaurant. He graduated from Elsie Allen High School in June of 2007, the same month his parents closed Sweet Lou’s.

“The more I work, the more I stay sane,” testifies Chambrone, who’s shaken skillets at Healdsburg Bar & Grill, Rosso Pizzeria and Francis Ford Coppola Winery, where, together with his childhood friend and sous chef, Dominic Fabiani, he “helped build it into the empire it is today.”

These days, the chef duo (Chambrone and Fabiani have been working together since Sweet Lou’s) are happy to be cooking in Barolo’s small kitchen, just a fraction of the size of Coppola’s, where they served an average of 650 diners a day. “When you’re turning over that many people,” Chambrone says, “there’s not a whole lot of love or emotion being put into the food.”

When asked what else he enjoys doing, the still-picky Chambrone laughs and says, “Nothing. This is it.” He recently moved into a studio apartment just a 30-second walk from his restaurant, and in his spare time reads biographies of chefs.

Chambrone may be single-minded, but as I watch him turn asparagus, bread crumbs, lemon zest and Parmesan into a sumptuous plate-scraping dish, it’s clear that his most potent ingredient is, indeed, love.

After I’m Gone

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‘Forgiving someone’s just like throwing a switch,” says Vi, a recently deceased British housewife and mother, to her not-quite-grieving daughter Mary. “It’s just a decision—and afterwards you’re free.”

In Shelagh Stephenson’s 1996 play The Memory of Water, running through April 7 at Main Stage West theater, forgiveness does not come easily. Not for Mary (a grounded, moving Allison Rae Baker) or for her two estranged sisters, the high-strung Teresa (Bronwen Shears, all brittle nerves and frozen fire) and the serially lovesick Catherine (Shannon Rider, never better). It is only Mary, an unhappy doctor haunted by past mistakes and obsessed with a young memory-loss patient, who’s begun seeing her dead mother (a lovingly passive-aggressive Mary Gannon Graham) popping up dressed to the nines, dispensing hard motherly advice—despite having died of Alzheimer’s a few days before.

As the sisters come together to make funeral plans and divide up mom’s stuff, it’s clear that neither daughter remembers her mother exactly the same way. Death, it seems, has somewhat improved Vi’s mothering skills. In none of her daughters’ memories was she particularly attentive or supportive, and the result of her parenting—either outright neglectful or overly controlling and manipulative—is that all three sisters are now rip-roaring emotional messes.

Teresa, who owns a homeopathic remedy company with her reluctant husband Frank (a nicely understated Keith Baker) recites cookbook recipes to calm her rapidly unraveling nerves. She was the one who cared for Vi during her illness, and she clearly resents her sisters’ lack of empathy for her sacrifice. Catherine is only concerned about the state of her relationship with her current fling Xavier, the latest in a string of 78 failed hook-ups.

Once described as a cross between Chekhov and Neil Simon, The Memory of Water, nicely directed for MSW by John Craven, swings wildly between moments of genuine piercing pain and stretches of spot-on, laugh-out-loud comedy. Paul Huberty, as Mary’s married lover Mike, is hilarious, especially in a sequence where he tries desperately to unfreeze himself after being locked outside in the cold.

Stephenson’s lovely writing, tightly woven and focused, becomes a bit diluted in the final thirty minutes, losing some of its potency as the playwright piles on so many sudden revelations, secrets, and hidden betrayals that it all threatens to become shrill and overwrought. That said, the play works. The steady magnificence of the cast and the raw, clear-sighted honesty of Stephenson’s characters combine into a thought-provoking—and largely unforgettable—evening of theater.

Loud Quiet Loud

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One hour ago, I stood in danger of being trampled by a throng of bodies, strangled by a microphone cord and kicked in the face by flailing feet.

In other words, it’s 1am, and I’ve just returned from seeing Iceage, a punk band made up of 20 year-olds from Copenhagen, Denmark.

With the exception of excellent local punk bands like Ceremony, No Sir, Creative Adult and a bevy of others playing in warehouses, basements and living rooms, the North Bay’s top music offerings for the next several months are of the decidedly calmer, quieter variety—and after all, everyone needs a breather.

To wit: the Green Music Center this week announced their second-season lineup, and it’s got plenty to dazzle classical music fans. The great Renee Fleming kicks off the season on Sept. 15, with Lang Lang and Izthak Perlman also part of the opening-week festivities. Hilary Hahn, Jessye Norman, Herbie Hancock, Richard Goode, Jean-Yves Thibaudet, Mariza, Bryn Terfel, Garrick Ohlsson, Ruth Ann Swenson and more round out the concert headliners. Because of the center’s partnership with MasterCard, you’ll have to be a MasterCard holder to buy tickets on April 2; the general public onsale is April 22. (Remember, SSU students get 50 percent off.)

The Healdsburg Jazz Festival this year honors the great jazz bassist Charlie Haden in a two-day tribute, featuring six sets of don’t-miss jazz; collaborators include Geri Allen, Chris Potter, Lee Konitz, Ravi Coltrane, Gonzalo Rubalcaba, Bill Frisell and Haden’s Liberation Music Orchestra. The Fred Hersch trio, Oliver Lake solo, the Azar Lawrence Quartet and a unique duo of Charles Lloyd and Jason Moran—who’ll be fresh from his jazz-and-live-skateboarding shows in San Francisco—are among the many other top-notch jazz acts in Healdsburg this June; tickets will be on sale within the week.

The rumors are true: the Last Day Saloon appears to be closing in May. The for-sale banner draped from the side of the Railroad Square venue says it all: “Owner Retiring.” Dave Daher, who has certainly earned his retirement, is selling the building through Sotheby’s; asking price is $2.15 million. After a retirement roast and party featuring Commander Cody, Bill Kirchen and special guests on April 28, the venue has a few select shows booked with Pride & Joy, John Courage and others until closing day on May 5.

The Lincoln Theater in Yountville has been quiet as of late, but country star Travis Tritt drops by on April 20, with a Napa Valley Youth Symphony Red Gala on May 25. Not to be outdone, on Sept. 21, Symphony Napa Valley holds an opening gala as well.

As for the tougher music fans out there who look forward to getting kicked in the face? Not to worry: Leftover Crack plays the Phoenix Theater on April 14.

Lobbying is Great!

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Hey, did you read the front-page story in the Press Democrat about lobbyists? Man, they’re so great, these lobbyists! All you have to do is give them money, and they make sure you get even more money back! Just like a casino, but with people and stuff, instead of slot machines!

Like the article says: “Talk about getting a bang for the buck!”

And the online headline! ‘Sonoma County Says Money Spent on Lobbying Is a Good Investment‘! Well! I, as a lifelong resident of Sonoma County, have struggled for years to put into words exactly how my community feels about lobbyists! The Press Democrat‘s on-point investigative reporting has really blown the lid off this one!

What’s that, you say? The Press Democrat is owned by Darius Anderson, himself a high-powered Sacramento lobbyist? Who has said that lobbying is a “misunderstood” field, and has surely hoped to correct the misperception of lobbying as, oh, I don’t know, maybe a microcosm of everything that’s wrong with too much money in politics? Who is quoted in his own paper saying, about his own lobbying firm, “I think we’re well-connected. . . . I think we give great advice”? Whose firm, Platinum Advisors, made $8.6 million last year? Who has eight full paragraphs in his paper about his own rising “star” and about Platinum Advisors’ success in Orange County?

What a coincidence!

In short, we should all come together in these trying times and give our money to lobbyists, because they are great, says a newspaper owned by a lobbyist.

Hangin’ Tough

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Seems like BottleRock won’t be the only music festival in Napa Valley this year. Between April 5–7, Napa offers yet another big music fest, except this one is so exclusive, attendees cannot buy tickets. ‘Live in the Vineyard’ is a three-day festival with performances from the Goo Goo Dolls, Tegan & Sara, New Kids On The Block and more, and the event pairs with top notch chefs for a night of sweet tunes, good food and an endless wine hangover.

So how does one get tickets to this shindig? Hopeful concertgoers must win their place at the festival by applying online at the event website. New Kids On The Block fans also have the chance to win tickets to the last day of the festival by tuning in to Mix 104.9 middays with Monika and being the ninth caller for select giveaways.

Chefs, wineries and small acoustic concerts are all part of the deal, and most bands will perform at the Uptown Theatre; the closeout concert with New Kids on the Block is held at Sutter Home Winery in order to accommodate the band’s fanbase, consisting of screaming teenagers thirtysomething moms. For more info., see liveinthevineyard.com. —Estefany Gonzalez

Spring Fever

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With the giant BottleRock music festival coming in May, the Napa Valley Film Festival approaching its third year and new resorts on the rise, Napa Valley is well on its way to becoming a year-round arts destination. Spring has always brought the breaking of buds, but now art is also bursting into full bloom, with the onset of the third annual Arts in April.

Throughout the month, a bevy of weekly delights from Calistoga to Carneros highlights a different region’s offerings. The month-long showcase features more than 30 wineries presenting artsy affairs and tastings paired with events and exhibits at local galleries on the weekends.

Here’s a hint at some of the highlights.

The month kicks off with an opening reception for the “Napa Valley Collects” exhibit at the Napa Valley Museum, highlighting select works from Marc Chagall, Cy Twombly, Pablo Picasso, Robert Arneson, Joan Brown, Roy De Forest, Stephen De Staebler, Peter Voulkos and more, on loan from local vintners and friends. An opening reception with the collectors—think names like Coppola and Mondavi—gets underway on Thursday, April 4, from 6-8pm at the museum.

For many moons, St. Helena’s Markham Vineyards has been host to the ’60s rock photos of Rolling Stone magazine’s first chief photographer, Baron Wolman. But this April brings a brand-new Wolman exhibit, “The Groupies.” The collection debuted in London in December, and Markham marks the first (and possibly only) stop on the stateside tour.

The collection of photos is anything but tame, especially in St. Helena. Wolman is quick to classify the work more clearly: “It’s not X-rated, just on the edge.” “The Groupies” is indeed a probing photographic presentation of the women who hung out backstage with popular rock bands. While Wolman is far from bashful about his affinity for women, and even less so in his conjuring of excuses to photograph them, he maintains that his catalyst for the collection was less about backstage sexual encounters than a new subculture of chic style burgeoning at the time.

Wolman was so impressed with his subjects, who dressed for backstage “appearances” with aplomb, that he pitched the idea of a groupies exposé to Rolling Stone founder Jann Wenner. The breadth of material was such that it morphed into a dedicated issue, centered around “The Groupies.” Wolman is reverential when he speaks about the experience; on his life as a photojournalist, he quips, “The big darkroom in the sky will go away, but the stories will remain.”

Wolman will be on hand in person on Saturday, April 13, from 11am-1pm, at Markham Vineyards. The event is free; RSVP required.

Other funky fare includes a live taping of the popular Judd’s Hill Winery video series “Wine Booty,” staring Judd Finkelstein and a man known only as the Pirate. Red carpet attire is encouraged, which in this realm means nautical wear (or black tie if you’re really angling to impress). In true Tinseltown form, attendees can bump elbows with the stars of the show and chow down on not only movie popcorn, but Hollywood’s famed Pink’s hot dogs, which are being flown in fresh for the event. Tickets are $25 per person and limited to 75 attendees. The taping takes place at the winery on April 26 from 5:30-8pm.

Stags’ Leap Winery, which serves up stellar views of the valley, showcases artist-in-resident Seth Carnes’ work in the Manor House. Carnes, who grew up in St. Helena but now resides in New York, enjoys the melding of digital and physical form; this is evidenced in some of his latest works, spawned from digital iPhone images that are developed, printed and melted onto wood blocks with solvents.

More traditional art forms are found at Calistoga’s Chateau Montelena, which just garnered a spot on the National Register of Historic Places—yet it’s probably most famous for taking home a top prize at the famous Paris tasting of 1976. April brings another draw with plein air artist Timothy Howe, whose arresting local landscapes are on display in the winery’s Estate Room.

Howe, a New Zealander, moved to the valley three years ago after 30 years in his native land and stints in Vancouver and Barcelona. Howe shoots photos which he then paints on canvas with heavy oil paint and a palette knife. He prefers oils to watercolor, which dry too quickly; “I can cheat a lot more this way,” Howe jokes. His work is available for viewing throughout the month, but those looking for face time with the man can hit the artist reception (with wine, cheese and canapés) on Saturday, April 6.

Throughout the month, staple studios feature special events and openings, including “Ekphrasis,” a photography and mixed media exhibit at the Calistoga Art Center, and “Awaken,” at Yountville’s Ma(i)sonry Napa Valley. Mid-month culinary arts cravings can be cured at Appellation St. Helena’s splish-splashy-spendy affair, bASH, at the Culinary Institute of America, where cooking wizards face off and the audience casts their votes.

Regardless of what type of art ultimately rocks your boat, this year’s Arts in April is sure to keep the scene afloat, all month long.

Letters to the Editor: March 27, 2013

A Letter From Guayakí We want to first say thank you for the story, and for sharing the joys of your journey into Argentina ("Bottling the Tradition," Feb. 13). We've had much to talk about at Guayakí since reading your article, and wanted the opportunity to express our thoughts and share with you our collective experience. One line in particular is...

Pledge of Dignity

Why isn't Rep. Jared Huffman promising to defend Social Security and Medicare?

Get Sauced

"We always hear from people sad to see all this fruit falling on the ground and rotting," says Jolie Devoto Wade, co-owner of Apple Sauced Cider in Sebastopol with her husband, Hunter. And with that, they decided to do something about it: make cider. The company is inviting Sebastopudlians to harvest those apples before they go bad for a project...

Oh, Baby!

Better birthing and breastfeeding benefit

Fresh Blood

Barolo's Angelo Chambrone turning heads as youngest chef in Napa Valley

After I’m Gone

'Memory of Water' finds secrets in death

Loud Quiet Loud

Announcements, closures and more

Lobbying is Great!

Says newspaper owned by lobbyist

Hangin’ Tough

Tegan and Sara, New Kids on the Block playing Napa

Spring Fever

April is the artsiest month in Napa
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