Donelan Family Wines

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Not at all long after I email about the possibility of an appointment to visit Donelan, I receive a call from Stamford, Conn. Joe Donelan is on the horn, and he talks emphatically for 15 minutes about the project that he has going on in a Santa Rosa warehouse off Coffey Lane. When I meet his winemaker, Joe Nielson, he tells me with deadpan intensity that he’s sharing gospel about the wines they’re making there. After more than a decade in business, it seems like they can’t wait to tell people about it.

The story so far: Fans of cult Syrah may recall Pax Wine Cellars, founded in 2000 by East Coast wine collector Joe Donelan and up-and-coming winemaker Pax Mahle. Their high-proof Syrahs received 90-plus scores, but after a litigious parting of ways, in their new ventures the former partners both avow reformation in favor of lower alcohol and cool-climate vineyards. Nielsen has some experience with that, having studied enology and viticulture at Michigan State. He’s got a balanced view on so-called cool-climate Syrah. “It can be savory without being offensive,” he says, adding dryly, “it can be meaty without being roadkill.”

Barrel samples are part of the show. A 2012 Bennett Valley Grenache has a promising, pretty aroma of cherry licorice. Block by block, we tour Walker Vine Hill vineyard, going from blueberry s’more to blueberry milkshake. A 2012 Green Valley Viognier has a fine raft of acidity that zips light stone fruit down the tongue, a far cry from some of the syrupy Viognier vandalisms of the past decade.

Donelan is also reaching out to consumers by offering Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, candidly describing them as “gateway drugs” to their Syrah. Toasty, sweet cream buttery accents herald the 2012 “Nancie” Chardonnay ($45) and then become shy while the tension between full-malolactic richness and vibrant acidity energizes a palate of none-too-ripe pear under a faint haze of pineapple. Barrel fermented in 20 to 30 percent new French oak, this puts a lot of Chardonnay I’ve been tasting off the supposedly crisper “unoaked” bandwagon to pitiful shame.

Savory with olive notes and red cherry and plum fruit, the
12.8 percent alcohol 2010 Kobler Vineyard Green Valley Syrah ($45) may indeed tempt the Pinot drinker Rhôneward, while the dense and tarry 2010 Obsidian Vineyard Knights Valley Syrah ($90) veers from butcher counter to Christmas candle, blood pudding to purple plum, leaving a hint of bay leaf. “Yes, it will be better with time,” says Nielson, “but it also has to be drinkable in its youth.” Not to mention 90-plus scorable.

Donelan Family Wines, 3352 Coffey Lane, Santa Rosa. By appointment only, Monday–Saturday. No fee. 707.591.0782.

Best Buds

As a “cannabis farmer”—those are his words—and flamboyant marijuana showman, Tim Blake walks a fine line. For the last nine years, between his tending and harvesting of bountiful crops, he’s produced the Emerald Cup, a dog and pony show for Mendocino County’s pot growers. Now, he’s
bringing the Cup from the backwoods to the big city. The Emerald Cup runs
Dec. 14–15 at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds.

Part cannabis circus, part down-home county fair and part tribal gathering for an industry on the cusp of respectability that still clings to its outlaw trappings, the Cup will bring growers and fans from around the country for the longest running marijuana competition in the state.

Blake and his cohorts aim to give cannabis a near total makeover, even as they’re keen to hold on to venerable pot traditions such as passing a joint and getting stoned. “That’s a God-given right,” Blake tells me from his home in Laytonville. “Now we’ve got to clean up the industry, get rid of polluters and criminals, and make it perfectly legal to smoke a joint and get high.”

At the 10th annual event this week, competition will be fierce in three categories: best cannabis flowers, best concentrates and best photos. This year, the Cup received over 50 concentrate entries and over 250 flower entries, up from 200 in the 2012 competition. Grand prize for the first place winner for flowers is a two-week all-expenses paid vacation in Jamaica.

Blake’s rules stipulate that the cannabis in the competition must be cultivated organically, under the sun by environmentally friendly folk who wouldn’t think of harming Mother Earth. If that sounds like a throwback to hippie days, it might be because Blake’s grassroots go back to the 1970s, when he moved from Santa Cruz to Mendocino, bought land and began to grow marijuana as a back-to-the-land hippie-outlaw with a very low profile.

Six years ago, Blake stormed out of the cannabis closet to advertise his habit and promote the industry. He’s not a holier-than-thou crusader, but he wouldn’t mind it if every “head” in California came out for the Cup at the Fairgrounds. Of course, no one’s a “head” anymore. Everyone’s a patient, suffering from anxiety, depression, insomnia and any number of ailments. Blake’s a patient and so is his co-producer, Samantha Mikelojewski, 26, who cultivates cannabis and uses it for anxiety. She started to smoke at 13.

At the Cup, patients like Mikelojewski and Blake will be able to take their medicine if they produce a recommendation from a physician, such as Jeffrey Hergenrather, the legendary Sebastopol pot doc who grew it when he was a student at UC Berkeley, and who has practiced for so long that the sons and daughters of his original patients show up at his office for recommendations.

Hergenrather tops the list of cannabis experts and celebrities at this year’s star-studded Cup. Other speakers include Dr. Donald Abrams, who has demonstrated the benefits of cannabis for cancer patients; Steve de Angelo, owner of Harborside Health Center in Oakland, the biggest pot dispensary in the world; and Dennis Peron, the pot activist who drafted Proposition 215, which ushered in medical marijuana in 1996. Still, the event’s biggest draw has to be the bands: Jefferson Starship, Big Brother and the Holding Company and Canned Heat. For more contemporary sounds, there’s Rebelution, with
its mix of rock and reggae, and
J Boog, the R&B singer and rapper from Compton.

What’s also electrifying about this year’s Emerald Cup aren’t the old-school guys, but the new-school women: reporter Kym Kemp, lawyer Kyndra Miller and Diane Goldstein, a former California police officer who belongs to the pro-legalization organization Law Enforcement Against Prohibition. “At the Cup, we’re moving away from the male-dominated outlaw thing,” Samantha Mikelojewski tells me. “We’re giving a new face to cannabis and illustrating the contributions of women in all aspects of the industry.”

John Hurley, manager of the Mighty Quinn, thinks this year’s Emerald Cup marks a milestone for growers, patients and for Santa Rosa, too, as a city with a long marijuana history and very little marijuana transparency. “I’m amazed we haven’t had anything like this before in Sonoma County,” Hurley says from his sanctuary at the back of the store. “We live in the most liberal area in the most liberal state in the United States, and yet people are still afraid to come out. Paranoia’s a tough habit to break.”

Born in San Rafael in the 1950s, Hurley smoked his first joint in 1968. He’s watched the marijuana scene morph, as growers have moved from outdoors to indoors and from sunlight to artificial light. “Concentrates are the new revolution,” he says. “They allow you to take a bulky product and shrink it down, which makes it easier to transport and more convenient for patients to calibrate precise dosage.” Hurley and the Mighty Quinn, a major sponsor of the Cup, won’t be hawking concentrates or buds, but they’ll sell pipes, papers and all the paraphernalia.

Ellen Komp, deputy director of California NORML, the grandmother of anti-pot-prohibition organizations, keeps records of famous women who smoke now or who smoked cannabis in the past: Lady Gaga, Anne Hathaway and Lila Leeds, the actress busted with Robert Mitchum in 1948 when she was 20 and whose career went up in smoke. “Women are coming out of the closet, and that takes courage,” Komp tells me. “If you’re a mother and you’re arrested for cannabis, you can have your children taken away. But women are beginning to say, ‘I’m a better parent when I smoke pot.'” She’ll be at the Cup advocating legalization.

Born in Pennsylvania, Komp smoked for the first time in 1976. She’s only recently come out of the closet. “For years, I was advised not to say anything, and I didn’t,” she explains. “Then I began to say that I had used it in the past. Now, I’m really out of the closet. I smoke pot medicinally, spiritually and recreationally, and I’m not ashamed.”

The Emerald Cup runs Saturday–Sunday, Dec. 14–15, at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds. 1350 Bennett Valley Road, Santa Rosa. Saturday, 11am–midnight; Sunday, 11am–8:30pm. $45–$50 per day; $80–$90 for the weekend. 707.984.9174.
www.theemeraldcup.com.

25 Days Project: Sacks on the Square

It’s technically a thrift store, and the money goes to charity, but I don’t know of a shop that I frequent more often than Sacks on the Square in Santa Rosa. I have purchased suits, furniture, shoes, stereo equipment, jewelry, records, games, electronics, decorations, glasses, cups, books, artwork, kitchen gadgets and more things I’m sure I couldn’t have survived without at the time. And they were all such good bargains! But this could describe my experience in any thrift store. What makes Sack’s unique is their friendly staff, always quick with a smile and sometimes even offering to deliver large items. It’s no wonder the shop is always occupied with shoppers young and elderly looking for cool stuff at good prices. And the profits go to Face to Face and Memorial Hospice, two extremely worthy Sonoma County charities, something that makes buying that suit jacket that might only be worn once feel justifiable when I drop it off at a donation site three months down the road again.

—Nicolas Grizzle

25 Days Project: Treehorn Books

Santa Rosa has its fair share of bookstores, and each has a different personality. Treehorn suits me best. Rarely do I pass by the downtown storefront and not peek my head in to see what’s either new, rare or on sale. Sometimes I just sit and absorb the smell. The smell of old books. It’s primarily a used book store, and each volume lining the towering shelves has soaked up the smell of a different home. Put together, they create a wonderful aroma of other people’s houses embedded into book paper. I always check to see if any Black Sparrow Press printings have arrived in the poetry section, and drool over first-edition copies of classic novels. Their calendar sale can’t be beat, and it goes on usually through January—I’m hoping to replace my antique food advertisement calendar with something more modern this year.

—Nicolas Grizzle

Light Show

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Scrooge: The Musical—regardless of whatever else one says about it as a play—has one thing going for it that separates it from all other Christmas Carol adaptations currently running in the North Bay; namely, this production is loaded with what can best be described as “the Spreckels style.”

It is rare for a theater company to establish its own recognizable style that’s all its own. But at the Spreckels Center in Rohnert Park, the New Spreckels Theater Company is definitely building a reputation based on a certain individual visual aesthetic.

Beginning with Jekyll and Hyde: The Musical, in the fall of 2011, managing director Gene Abravaya has been testing out a new theatrical projection system called Paradyne. Developed by Spreckels as a way to provide rapidly changing scenes without having to slide large pieces of scenery on and off the stage every few moments, the system has been effective in the large 550-seat Spreckels Theater for such shows as Young Frankenstein and Brigadoon.

For Scrooge, with songs and book written by Leslie Bricusse (Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory), the Paradyne system gets a tryout in the small Condiotti “black box” theater, where the audience is treated (up-close and personal) to a combination of live action, projected background slides, moving pictures and special effects—from floating phantoms over London and stacks of gold rising on the walls to a ghostly talking door knocker and a flickering-flame vision of hell.

It takes a little getting used to, and some of the ways the Paradyne is employed here are more distracting than engaging, but the projections do add a unique theme-park element that’s fresh and often clever.

Directed by Abravaya, Scrooge—based on the 1970 film starring Albert Finney—makes good use of a cast of local community theater veterans, with the excellent Tim Setzer leading the pack as Ebenezer Scrooge. The old miser’s evolution from skinflint to humanitarian is effectively staged, and the musical numbers, especially the rousing funeral celebration “Thank You Very Much,” are presented with plenty of charm by a slightly uneven but energetic cast.

Though the story may be familiar, Scrooge: The Musical—thanks to the catchy tunes and the Paradyne projections—manages to take an old tale and render it new again.

Rating (out of 5): ★★★★

Sicks Sicks Sicks

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Combine one part Mel Brooks, one part Mark Twain, shake it up in a beehive hairdo and you’ve got the Kinsey Sicks, a barbershop quartet with a twist.

Named after the highest rating on the Kinsey Scale of sexual responses (zero being strictly hetero and six being totally homo), the Kinsey Sicks, a self-proclaimed (and trademarked) “dragapella” group, have 20 years under their garter belts of delivering wild performances.

“It’s a roller coaster ride,” says founding member Irwin Keller, rabbi of Cotati’s Congregation Ner Shalom. This week’s show finds Keller performing for the first time locally since moving here, and as he says, “I’m looking forward to seeing exactly how terrified I can be performing as Winnie in front of all the people for whom I am usually Reb Irwin.”

Their holiday show, “Oy Vey in a Manger,” features songs like “God Bless Ye Femmy Lesbians,” “I’m Dreaming of a Betty White Christmas” and—not a typo—”Satan Baby.” Says Irwin, “Hey, if Trixie’s willing to sell her soul to the devil for reality TV, then who am I to judge?”

The Kinsey Sicks perform Monday,
Dec. 9, at SSU’s Evert B. Person Theatre.
1801 E. Cotati Ave., Rohnert Park. $30–$50. 7:30pm. 707.664.8622.

Sam’s Takeover

Rohnert Park’s Pacific Market didn’t live to see if it could defeat Walmart. The local grocery closed its doors for good in 2011, even before a judge ruling in favor of environmental and living-wage groups temporarily halted the neighboring big box store’s expansion. A little salt now being rubbed in the wound is Walmart’s plan to open a “neighborhood market” in the former Pacific Market space in the fall of 2014, and it still plans to expand its current store.

The irony cuts deep after one understands the backstory. Pacific Market was floundering. Hit hard by the recession, the store had trouble filling its shelves. Even employees saw the writing on the wall. In what was perhaps a last-ditch effort, owners petitioned a study from Sonoma State University showing that if the city approved the nearby Walmart’s expansion plan into a supercenter (thus adding a grocery section), the market would be forced to close and hundreds of surrounding jobs would be lost. A lawsuit filed by environmental groups resulted in a ruling that the project’s environmental impact report needed revision. Supercenter: halted.

The expansion was originally rejected by the planning commission, 4–0, but was then overturned on appeal by the city council. Jake Mackenzie, the sole dissenting vote in that 2010 vote, still sits on the council. But he is likely to be outnumbered, with at least three fellow council members having cast votes in favor of Walmart in the past.

After a couple years of back and forth between lawyers, all had been quiet since March, when the council voted to acquiesce to Walmart’s request to revise the EIR for its supercenter expansion. Rohnert Park city manager Darrin Jenkins says that revised report is now nearly finished, and will probably be in front of the planning commission early next year. From there, it will likely head to the city council for final approval before any construction begins.

But that has no effect on the new store, and with the neighborhood market planned to open in fall 2014, Walmart will be overseeing two construction projects within just two miles of each other.

As far as the city is concerned, that’s just fine. “We don’t regulate brands,” says Jenkins. Unlike the expansion, this project does not require new construction, and therefore does not require special permits or an EIR. “It was a grocery store, it’s going to be a grocery store,” adds Jenkins. “There’s no change in use.” That also means there is less for opponents to gnaw at to slow down the process, but it doesn’t mean they won’t try.

“They don’t have any regulatory hoops they have to jump through to get into this spot,” says Marty Bennett, co-chair of the Living Wage Coalition of Sonoma County, which has sued to stop Walmarts opening in the past. “In part, that’s why they’ve rolled out ‘smallmarts,'” he says, using a derisive term for the neighborhood markets, “to get around coalitions like us.”

Despite the opposition, the new store does have its champions, including Rohnert Park council member Pam Stafford, who was quoted in a Walmart press release welcoming the new store. Other businesses in the center also welcome the new anchor tenant. Jenkins, who lives near the shopping center, said he has heard positive comments from residents who will no longer have to drive across town for groceries. Even Bennett had to admit that, for the location, the store is a good fit. “To be fair, this shopping center does need an anchor tenant, and Walmart is obviously filling a need,” he says, before adding a caveat. “But the paradox is, in part they’re responsible for the problems of that shopping center.”

Rick Luttmann, a member of the Living Wage Coalition who lives just two blocks from the market site, has conflicting feelings about the store. “We would definitely prefer another option, but nobody’s asking us,” he says, adding that he and many others wished the rumor of Trader Joe’s moving in had come to fruition. “Its good that a grocer is moving in there, I just wish it wasn’t Walmart.”

No matter what happens, there will still be opposition to the nation’s largest and most controversial big-box store. “We’re in for the long haul here,” says Bennett, who pointed out that Walmart is heading into its fifth year attempting to expand its Rohnert Park store. “Every day that Walmart does not build, it’s a victory for us.”

Pleasing Portions

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On Thursday, Dec.5, Food for Thought holds its 13th annual fundraising effort, Dining Out for Life. The fundraiser is a way for Sonoma County citizens to support the Sonoma County AIDS Food Bank, which provides for people affected by HIV/AIDS—and it’s as easy as dining out at a local restaurant.

Food for Thought currently provides food and nutritional supplements for more than 675 men, women and dependent children of parents with HIV/AIDS. More than one-third of these clients receive delivery service because they are homebound. Thanks to thousands of diners at last year’s Dining Out for Life, Food for Thought raised more than $125,000 to help these very people in need.

A total of 85 restaurants will participate in this year’s fundraiser. Most of the restaurants will donate 25 percent of profits, but some are pledging to donate 50 percent of profits, including Agriculture Bar and Kitchen at Dawn Ranch Lodge, Corks at Russian River Vineyards, Forchetta Bastoni, Formosa, JoJo Restaurant and Sushi Bar, K&L Bistro, Tiny Town Cafe and Pastry, Sunshine Coffee Roasters and Trio Restaurant. For a full
list of participating eateries, see
www.diningoutforlife.com.

Alt & in the Way

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What are the roots of a roots music band? In the case of Poor Man’s Whiskey, admits cofounder and guitar-mandolin player Jason Beard, the core members started off as “a winery/wedding band, so we ended up having to do a lot of covers, old traditional rock and roll tunes, but we would make them bluegrass. We always called that ‘whiskefying’ things.”

Fast-forward a few years, and the hard-working “high-octane hootenanny” band applied their old approach to even older material, crafting their string-jam makeover of Pink Floyd’s most iconic record. Dark Side of the Moonshine earned Poor Man’s Whiskey considerable acclaim, but this year, the Santa Rosa–based band was ready to tackle something new.

“So for a kick,” Beard relates, instead of taking a rock album “and making it bluegrass, we thought we’d take a fairly influential album on us, Old & in the Way, and whiskefy that.”

Old & in the Way (both the group and their lone, eponymous album) was not rock and roll, but as close to true, traditional bluegrass as a band of Bay Area hippies—one that included David Grisman, Jerry Garcia and Peter Rowan—could get.

Rather than a full-album
re-creation this time, Poor Man’s Whiskey has concentrated on “a good handful” of their favorite tracks, “but we definitely infused our own energy, doing what we do,” Beard asserts.

“‘Cactus John’ got a pretty big makeover that becomes a big rock jam. ‘Hobo Song’ also becomes a much more electric rock tune,” he continues. “‘Pig in Pen’ we still do acoustic and bluegrass, but we’re much more of an old-timey slant on bluegrass, in that we drive a lot of rhythms.”

Whiskey debuted their customized tribute in a sold-out date at San Francisco’s Great American Music Hall, one that came with a twist—they were joined at the show by Peter Rowan himself. But when the originator arrived to rehearse a few days before the show, “we already had all the songs arranged how we do them,” recalls Jason, “and Peter would start playing, and we’d have to say, ‘No, we’re gonna play ’em like this.’ But it worked well and we had a really great time.”

Poor Man’s Whiskey plans to retire the Old & in the Way material after a final pair of NorCal shows this weekend, but they’re already planning further whiskefications. A February date at the Sebastopol Community Center will find the band stretching out in a full night of Allman Brothers material, and Beard hints, without being specific, that 2015 will see them cover and adapt another iconic album from a very different artist.

Poor Man’s Whiskey play Friday, Dec. 6, at the Mystic Theatre. 21 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma. 8:30pm. $18. 707.762.3565.

Donelan Family Wines

Not at all long after I email about the possibility of an appointment to visit Donelan, I receive a call from Stamford, Conn. Joe Donelan is on the horn, and he talks emphatically for 15 minutes about the project that he has going on in a Santa Rosa warehouse off Coffey Lane. When I meet his winemaker, Joe Nielson,...

Best Buds

As a "cannabis farmer"—those are his words—and flamboyant marijuana showman, Tim Blake walks a fine line. For the last nine years, between his tending and harvesting of bountiful crops, he's produced the Emerald Cup, a dog and pony show for Mendocino County's pot growers. Now, he's bringing the Cup from the backwoods to the big city. The Emerald Cup...

PHOTOS: Not So Silent Night (Vampire Weekend, Arcade Fire, Kings of Leon and more) – Oracle Arena

Photos by David Sason Kings of Leon Vampire Weekend Arctic Monkeys Queens of the Stone Age AFI Bastille Capital Cities Arcade Fire Phoenix Lorde Alt-J

25 Days Project: Sacks on the Square

It’s technically a thrift store, and the money goes to charity, but I don’t know of a shop that I frequent more often than Sacks on the Square in Santa Rosa. I have purchased suits, furniture, shoes, stereo equipment, jewelry, records, games, electronics, decorations, glasses, cups, books, artwork, kitchen gadgets and more things I’m sure I couldn’t have survived...

25 Days Project: Treehorn Books

Santa Rosa has its fair share of bookstores, and each has a different personality. Treehorn suits me best. Rarely do I pass by the downtown storefront and not peek my head in to see what’s either new, rare or on sale. Sometimes I just sit and absorb the smell. The smell of old books. It’s primarily a used book...

Light Show

Scrooge: The Musical—regardless of whatever else one says about it as a play—has one thing going for it that separates it from all other Christmas Carol adaptations currently running in the North Bay; namely, this production is loaded with what can best be described as "the Spreckels style." It is rare for a theater company to establish its own recognizable...

Sicks Sicks Sicks

Combine one part Mel Brooks, one part Mark Twain, shake it up in a beehive hairdo and you've got the Kinsey Sicks, a barbershop quartet with a twist. Named after the highest rating on the Kinsey Scale of sexual responses (zero being strictly hetero and six being totally homo), the Kinsey Sicks, a self-proclaimed (and trademarked) "dragapella" group, have 20...

Sam’s Takeover

Rohnert Park's Pacific Market didn't live to see if it could defeat Walmart. The local grocery closed its doors for good in 2011, even before a judge ruling in favor of environmental and living-wage groups temporarily halted the neighboring big box store's expansion. A little salt now being rubbed in the wound is Walmart's plan to open a "neighborhood...

Pleasing Portions

On Thursday, Dec.5, Food for Thought holds its 13th annual fundraising effort, Dining Out for Life. The fundraiser is a way for Sonoma County citizens to support the Sonoma County AIDS Food Bank, which provides for people affected by HIV/AIDS—and it's as easy as dining out at a local restaurant. Food for Thought currently provides food and nutritional supplements for...

Alt & in the Way

What are the roots of a roots music band? In the case of Poor Man's Whiskey, admits cofounder and guitar-mandolin player Jason Beard, the core members started off as "a winery/wedding band, so we ended up having to do a lot of covers, old traditional rock and roll tunes, but we would make them bluegrass. We always called that...
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