Midnight in Samarkand

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Recently, while waiting between flights at the San Francisco Airport, I found myself sitting at the airport bar, as I normally do, imbibing a Harvey Wallbanger—as I normally do—watching the action on the tarmac, as well as admiring the general strangeness of the surrounding venue. In many ways, this place is a present-day Silk Road outpost, a crossroads and exchange of foreign ideas and peoples. One of the redeeming qualities of waiting in the airport has always been the opportunity to meet different people and have random conversations that go on about random things, in the process gaining a perspective on life I never otherwise probably would get.

How often in your everyday existence, for example, have you encountered some dirt farmer named Joe from Lusk who struck it rich because of the vast petroleum deposits on his land, or a girl named Anemone from the Netherlands who was out of the Old World for the first time, let alone have an actual conversation with them? Some of the strangest conversations I have ever had occurred at airports, yet this veritable mosaic of multicolored views seems to be slowly but surely going the way of the buffalo.

Looking around, I noticed virtually everyone was stoned on some sort of digital opiate—everyday people reduced to the stupor of Haight Street junkies, strung out on the marvels of modern communication devices, chasing dragons on their iPods.

People live for the junk. People constantly have to update where they are, who they are with and what they are doing on the 36 different social media platforms they use, all for approval of their digital minions. People seem more excited about what someone else will say about what happened to them, rather than enjoying the raw insanity of what might actually happen.

After a couple drinks, my flight was called, and I sifted my way through the sea of digital dope fiends, the absence of a stale-piss aroma the only thing assuring me I wasn’t in the Civic Center MUNI station at midnight.

Mike Harkins is a guru of Nuristani shamanic rituals and a leading authority on small hand tools. He currently resides in a fortified compound near Santa Rosa.

Open Mic is a weekly op/ed feature in the Bohemian. We welcome your contribution. To have your topical essay of 350 words considered for publication, write op*****@******an.com.

Oregon Trail

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As Shakespeare once wrote, “Summer’s lease hath all too short a date,” which is a fancy way of saying enjoy the good weather while we have it—and for some of us, that means escaping to the mountains for a bit of scenery, sun-screen and Shakespeare.

Though the Oregon Shakespeare Festival has technically been running since February, summer is the time of year when folks from all over the country—including a huge number from the North Bay—make the trek up over the Siskiyou Pass and down into the impossibly charming town of Ashland, Ore. In June, when the vast outdoor Elizabethan Theatre opens, along with three new productions, the total number of shows playing in repertory is nine. Two more will be added in July, and one (August Wilson’s Two Trains Running) will end, but this is the time of year when the most shows are happening all at once—and the audiences begin to arrive in droves.

Why?

Because the Oregon Shakespeare Festival is, quite simply, one of the finest repertory companies in the world, and their productions employ some of the best actors and directors in the business—not that the occasional onstage misfire doesn’t occur. It does. And this year, there are a couple. There are also a handful of productions that rank as the best I’ve ever seen.

Here are my views of the OSF shows currently running.

‘KING LEAR’ (Thomas Theatre) ★★★★★

It can be risky bringing new ideas to plays that are universally well-known, jarring audiences out of fond expectations. In Bill Rauch’s intense, relentlessly paced take on Shakespeare’s King Lear (through Nov. 3), the risks pay off big time, resulting in what is the best, most entertaining, upsetting, unsettling, thrilling and deeply moving Lear I’ve ever seen—and frankly, I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve seen this soaring tragedy.

But I’ve never seen it like this.

Staged in the round within the intimate Thomas Theatre, director Rauch sets the play in modern times with echoes of past generations hanging over it. King Lear, easily the lit world’s most heartbreakingly foolish monarch ever—and one of the theater world’s most demanding roles of all time—is played on alternating nights by two different actors, Jack Willis and Michael Winter, possibly to give each other time to rest up for the next emotionally grueling show.

At the start of the show, Lear is ready for retirement. Fond of the perks of being king but ready to relinquish the responsibilities of leadership, he goes against the counsel of his advisers, and offers to split his kingdom into three, giving rule to each of his daughters, Goneril (Vilma Silva), Regan (Robin Goodrin Nordli) and Cordelia (Sofia Jean Gomez).

Almost immediately things go badly, and hints of Lear’s coming dementia are spied by his daughters, with Lear promising the largest holding to whichever of them can testify to loving him most. When Cordelia, honest to a fault, refuses to play the game, she is disinherited, and Lear’s kingdom is divided between Goneril and Regan.

For the following three breathtaking hours, told over three full acts with two intermissions, the breaking of Lear’s kingdom continues, everything crumbling into small and smaller pieces, along with his sanity, as the daughters, and their husbands, cheat, lie, conspire, seduce and murder their way deeper and deeper into war, madness and ruin. The pace never slackens, and the inventiveness with which Rauch brings fresh ideas and visuals to the story never wanes.

The cast is marvelous, committing body and soul to the ensuing mayhem, and the aching, poisoned hearts of these all-too-human characters are always in view. No matter how brutal or bloody the action, Rauch keeps King Lear grounded in stark, brave believability.

It may leave audiences shaken, but its goal is to move us and make us willing to examine the wise and unwise choices we all make, to question the motivations behind every word of flattery and compliment, and to see the broken hearts behind every human cruelty.

‘THE UNFORTUNATES’ (Thomas Theatre) ★★★★½

The Oregon Shakespeare Festival’s commitment to original work has produced a number of plays that have gone on to become huge successes elsewhere. I predict the same road lies ahead for a smart, uncategorizable new musical that has proven to be one of this year’s biggest hits.

Directed by Shana Cooper, The Unfortunates (though Nov. 2), by the hip-hop team 3 Blind Mice and playwright Kristofer Diaz, was developed through a series of workshops and late-night sneak peeks. Occasionally baffling, but mesmerizing and deeply moving, The Unfortunates is a theatrical fantasia on the themes and characters from the American blues song “The St. James Infirmary Blues.” Layering elements from the seminal folk ballad “The Unfortunate Rake,” the musical begins with a group of soldiers waiting for execution, one of whom finds himself transported into the world of the song the soldiers have been singing as they await their fates.

The visuals are gorgeously strange (Tim Burton strange), and the songs combine blues, rap, folk and rock to create a truly original, weirdly satisfying piece of musical theater. There have been countless variations of “The St. James Infirmary Blues,” in which a dying young man tells the story of the woman who “cut him down” in his prime. The song, in various forms, has been covered by everyone from Cab Calloway to the Doors to the White Stripes, and has been referenced in a famous Betty Boop cartoon, countless books and movies, and even a few old cowboy laments.

As the doomed soldier, Joe (Ian Merrigan) is transported into the song, he becomes Big Joe, the fighter with enormous fists, in love with the armless prostitute Rae (Kjerstine Rose Anderson), whom he cannot help, even with his skills as a fighter and gambler. The plague is raging, and St. James Infirmary is the only hope, with the doctors’ offer of a cure—for a price. The dreamlike qualities of the play are brilliantly created with some strong stagecraft, resulting in one of the most memorable and emotionally complex plays of the season.

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‘THE TAMING OF THE SHREW’ (Angus Bowmer Theatre) ★★★★½

The Taming of the Shrew, one of the trickier Shakespeare shows to present to modern audiences, has been given the Beach Boardwalk treatment by director David Ivers, with a rockabilly soundtrack that makes the show—and it’s love-and-war attitude—not only palatable, but actually kind of sweet and infectious.

Kate (Nell Geisslinger), is the wild-child outsider of her family, who own a great deal of the Beach Front Boardwalk of Padua, with a roller coaster and Ferris wheel hovering over the impressive set. When Petruchio (Ted Deasy) arrives, the tattooed, guitar-strumming charmer from out of town quickly falls for Kate, in whom he recognizes a kindred soul, an outcast marching to her own drummer, much like himself. When her father agrees to marry her off to Petruchio, she rebels, vowing to make Petruchio’s life a living hell, until Petruchio, played with far more heart and sweetness than in most productions, decides to tame her using the only means he can think of, which is basically to act crazier and more out-of-control than she is.

The less acceptable parts of Shakespeare’s story, where Petruchio keeps Kate hungry, sleep-deprived and off-balance, saying it’s all because he loves her too much to allow her to eat food that isn’t as perfect as she—that stuff actually works here, because for once the show is played as a true romantic comedy, with a Petruchio and a Kate that we really hope end up together, happy at last. Geisslinger and Deasy have amazing chemistry together, and watching them fall in love, in fits and starts, is like a special effect unto itself, with the road to romance entertainingly rocky, right up to the final rock-and-roll-fueled climax.

‘MY FAIR LADY’ (Angus Bowmer Theatre) ★★★★★

Whether by design or by accident, OSF has paired one of the best Taming of the Shrews I’ve ever seen with the only production of My Fair Lady (through Nov. 3)—arguably a Victorian spin on Shrew—that hasn’t made me squirm with discomfort.

The play that inspired the Lerner and Loewe musical, George Bernard Shaw’s Pygmalion, was trying to make a point about the unfairness of class distinction. Still, it carries the underlying suggestion that, way down deep, women like being bullied by men.

Henry Higgins (Jonathan Haugen) is a curmudgeonly expert in linguistics, who encounters a lower-class flower girl named Eliza Doolittle (Rachael Warren), and takes her on as a student, all to prove that the only thing separating the poor folks from the rich folks, aside from money, is the way they speak.

Shaw, in creating the characters of Higgins and Eliza, shook things up in a big way, challenging long-held assumptions about class and humanity. But then he cavalierly wallpapers the show with misogynist one-liners that seem to be more than just a comment on Higgins’ uncouth attitude. They seem to be inside jokes that all men will get a good laugh from.

In the musical version, which actually adds a happy ending for these two, the misogyny only gets worse. For Eliza to end up with this unfeeling, selfish, narcissistic, borderline sociopath is a tragedy, a disaster of epic proportions, for Eliza anyway.

That’s why I don’t like My Fair Lady.

So why do I love director Amanda Dehnert’s sleek OSF version? For one thing, Dehnert is a genius. Understanding the problems plaguing the play, not content to merely stage it with pretty costumes and say, “Oh well, that was a different time,” Dehnert has virtually rewritten the play from the inside out—without changing a single line.

The play begins when the doors open for the audience, two grand pianos at the center of the stage surrounded by racks of costumes, piles of props, several actors already present, stretching, warming their voices and chatting with each other. At the top of the show, actress Warren, not yet in character as Eliza, starts up a conversation with the audience, then produces her own cell phone, switches it off, and hides it beneath a bank of lights because, as she says, “I have to do this show now.”

And suddenly, accompanied by just two pianos and the occasional cast member fiddling a few licks when appropriate, My Fair Lady begins, resembling a rehearsal more than a performance, with the cast all sitting onstage in a ramshackle set of chairs, watching the play themselves until called upon to don a costume and take part.

The effect is powerful and immediate.

Without sacrificing a bit of the charm of the characters or the music, it is clear that this is a game, and everyone knows it. That right there might have been enough, but the performances of Warren and Haugen, under Dehnert’s delicate direction, reveal full-fledged human beings beneath the skin of these people. Eliza is allowed to be more than a screeching joke at the beginning and a simpering codependent at the end, and Higgins is amazing, a narcissistic bully who behaves the way he does because no one has ever forced him to grow up.

Eliza does force him to, and by the end of the play, each is warier and wiser, and when they come together in the final seconds of the play, which Dehnert allows to happen in the audience, away from the stage where their game has been played, they come together in a way I’d have thought impossible for My Fair Lady: as true equals, each recognizing the strengths and weaknesses in themselves and each other.

‘TWO TRAINS RUNNING’ (Angus Bowmer Theatre) ★★★★★

The late American playwright August Wilson, over the course of 25 years, wrote 10 plays unofficially called “the Century Cycle,” since each takes place in a different decade of the 20th century. Two Trains Running (though July 7), which Wilson wrote in 1991, is his ’60s play, taking place just over a year after the assassination of Martin Luther King Jr. inside the rundown Hill district coffee shop of self-made man Memphis (Terry Bellamy, magnificent).

The play covers a few days in the lives of the folks who’ve made Memphis’ diner the hub of their existence. These are potently rich, real characters, flawed, frail and fleshed-out, from Wolf (Kenajuan Bentley), the flashy numbers runner who seems to be the only one making any money, and no-nonsense waitress Risa (Bakesta King, marvelously fierce and frail), whose practiced detachment masks a fierce sense of sadness, to recent parolee Sterling (OSF mainstay Kevin Kennerly), just looking for a break, and Hambone (an excellent Tyrone Wilson), the developmentally disabled man-child whom Risa gives free meals to. In many ways, Hambone—with his plaintive, oft-repeated cry “I want my ham!”— is the heart of the play, steadfastly insisting on getting what was once promised him, in exchange for painting a white grocer’s fence 10 years before.

Directed with loving detail and a strong sense of character by Lou Bellamy—who’s directed more of Wilson’s plays than any other director on the planet—this is a great one for first-timers to Wilson’s world. Arguably the most hopeful of his 10 plays, Two Trains Running is a generous play, distributing with lumpy impartiality a whole series of happy and semi-happy endings among its characters—characters that live such frustrated and hopeful lives, it is impossible not to want them to get everything they deserve, from ham to happiness, from a fair break to lasting love.

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‘A MIDSUMMER NIGHT’S DREAM’ (Elizabethan Stage) ★★½

The big disappointment of the season is A Midsummer Night’s Dream, Christopher Liam Moore’s poorly thought-out staging of one of Shakespeare’s best known and most loved comedies. Though the visual look of the show is stunning, with leafy green projections employed to make the ramps and swirls of the wooden stage look like a vibrant forest, the whole enterprise feels forced and clunky, careening between scenes that are dull and lifeless, and others so badly constructed they look like something improvised in a high school drama class.

On top of that, Moore jettisons Shakespeare’s text frequently, replacing names, titles and exposition with his own material, all to accommodate his resetting the play to 1964, on and around a Catholic college. I have no problem with shifting the setting of Shakespeare’s plays. To my mind, you can set them in the past, present or future, plop the characters down in the Depression, the Apocalypse or on the planet Krypton. But if you have to change the text to fit the vision, you need a different vision.

By comparison, My Fair Lady managed a triumphant reimagining without altering any of the words at all. In A Midsummer Night’s Dream, it happens often, and usually to the detriment of the story. The bad ideas begin with Moore’s decision to transform the soon-to-be-married warrior Theseus and his Amazon queen conquest Hippolyta into priest and nun—Father Theseus and Sister Hippolyta—who shock everyone, but not enough (given that it’s 1964), with their decision to marry.

The primary story deals with the merged antics of four young lovers, escaped to the forest, the warring magic of two bands of fairies and a troupe of actors using the woods to rehearse a play. In this version, the actors are staff from the school, requiring the original’s Snug the Joiner to become Snug the Janitor. The foolish Bottom, the one who famously ends up transformed into a half-donkey, is the school’s PE teacher.

One gets the idea that it almost might have worked. But it doesn’t, and the actors appear to know this. With only a few exceptions, the performances are tentative, wooden and flat, the performers sounding as if they are reciting text rather than uttering words coming from their souls and minds, an additional insult given the lighthearted lusciousness of the text.

‘CYMBELINE’ (Elizabethan Stage) ★★★½

When Shakespeare first wrote it, Cymbeline (running through Oct. 13) was a blockbuster. But today, it has become trendy to disregard Cymbeline as an unsatisfying and seriously messed-up play. It is certainly a bit of a mash-up, as if Shakespeare had collected piles of random ideas and then, toward the end of his career, tried to cram them all into one play, whether they fit together or not. That would explain the wildly careening shifts in tone—from comedy to tragedy to satire—and such odd elements as princes disguised as acrobatic mountain men and a headless body mistaken for someone else.

Still, I’ve always loved Cymbeline, with its pre–Brothers Grimm tropes of an evil stepmother, a pure-hearted princess who’s escaped to the woods, benevolent spirits and other supernatural forces arriving in time to make everything right. In this visually stunning production by Bill Rauch (who also directed King Lear), those occasional fairy-tale elements inspire a production packed with elves, orcs and guys with horns, casually interacting with each other as if they were a band of characters in a game of Dungeons and Dragons. Walt Disney movies are an obvious influence as well, the evil stepmother dressed to resemble Snow White’s sorceress queen, complete with a steaming cauldron and poisoned apple.

Those elements, unfortunately, prove more distracting than illuminating, and as much as I love elves, orcs and guys in horns, they feel forced, superimposed onto the story rather than integrated into it. Which is a shame, because everything else works. Cymbeline, a pagan king who’s fallen under the spell of his heartless but beautiful second-wife, is played with fragile power by the great American actor Howie Seago (look him up on Wikipedia), who just happens to be deaf.

In casting a deaf actor, who speaks here in sign language and the occasional impassioned wordless cry, Rauch uncovers a number of rich dramatic textures. Watching the other characters approach to signing, for one thing, reveals more about their characters, and their feelings for the king, than they make clear in their words.

The primary story, a tangent-filled epic of lost loves, lost children, lost sanity and lost plot threads, is entertainingly and clearly told, with plenty of gorgeous stage magic to keep the eyes dazzled, even when the brain gets a little overworked. Rauch keeps the tone light, even during the heavy parts—and especially during the headless parts—and allows the actors to poke fun at the story they’re engaged in, essentially winking at the audience, agreeing that it’s all a bit much.

While I definitely do recommend Cymbeline, I personally would have preferred less of that knowing jokiness. We don’t need to be reminded that it’s a bit silly. The guy with the horns made that clear from the beginning.

‘THE HEART OF ROBIN HOOD’ (Elizabethan Stage) ★★★★

While much of Shakespeare’s appeal is his incomparable use of language, it is writer David Farr’s understanding of action and twisty-turny plotting that drives The Heart of Robin Hood, an entertaining origin story unfolding on the Elizabethan stage. Easily the best show of the new outdoor openings, this Robin Hood reframes the myth from the point of view of Maid Marian (an eclectic and delightful Kate Hurster), who encounters the famous thief (played with goofball relish by John Tufts) when she escapes to the woods to avoid marrying the evil Prince John (an amazing Michael Elich).

The idea here is that, before Marian, Robin Hood was just a dim-witted thug, stealing from the rich—and keeping the loot. It is only when he begins to take responsibility for the lives of a group of orphaned children that Robin begins to feel a sense of obligation for the fate of others. As he gradually warms to the idea, his fellow thieves come on board as well, embracing the shocking notion of actually doing good for others.

The language is rich and funny, but the strongest Bard-light comparisons are in the Elizabethan-style plot, complete with Marian donning a boy’s costume to join the Merry Men (a device also seen in Cymbeline, and many other Shakespeare plays).

Seago appears here again, this time as Little John, and his giddy, full-hearted performance matches those of the rest of the cast. The story is fast-paced, crammed with visual spectacle (and some awesome stage fighting), and even genuinely moving, as Marian discovers her own true vocation while, almost by accident, teaching Robin Hood where his own heart lies.

Lost & Found

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The National Gallery of Iceland sits at the eastern shore of Tjörnin lake in Reykjavík’s city center, overlooking both a modern city hall and the centuries-old Hólavallagardur cemetery. In late June, bright sunlight reflects off the surface of Tjörnin for 21 full hours every day, from 3am to midnight.

But in 2008, a young Icelandic artist named Elín Hansdóttir built a labyrinth inside of the National Gallery, almost completely dark within. Path, made up of a series of panels set in a zigzag pattern, offered one person at a time the immersive challenge of finding his or her way back to the beginning. Sometimes, guides would have to go into the darkness and rescue visitors who had lost their bearings.

It was an exhibit that San Francisco writer Rebecca Solnit returned to again and again during her months as an international resident at the Library of Water, 70 miles from Iceland’s capital, Reykjavík.

Solnit looked to the labyrinth as a narrative toolbox for her latest book, The Faraway Nearby, she says over coffee and bread at a cafe on the downtown Sausalito waterfront. “A lot of books have these linear routes, like highways, let’s get from here to there,” she says. “I wasn’t in a rush to get from here to there.” Solnit appears June 30 at the New School and Commonweal in Bolinas and July 2 at Copperfield’s Books in Petaluma.

A lover of works like Tristram Shandy, the 18th-century novel where the narrator announces he’s going to tell his life story and then digresses to such an extent that he’s not born until halfway through the book, Solnit set out to create a work of “circuitous routes and byways” in The Faraway Nearby. In one respect, the book tells the story of her mother’s descent into Alzheimer’s that ended with her death in June 2012, and what Solnit calls her “medical adventure” after pre-cancerous cells were discovered during a routine mammogram. But these are but two threads on a journey that includes Che Guevara, the Snow Queen, Frankenstein’s monster, Mary Shelley, cannibalistic polar bears, cannibalistic mothers, Icelandic fjords, mountains of apricots, arctic explorers, Baby Jessica, Charlie Musselwhite, invasive surgery, 2.2-pound babies, leper colonies, Burmese monks and boys named after wolves.

“If this was a straight route,” Solnit says, “it would be a really boring memoir of about 10,000 words, about: ‘My mom was really tricky, I got kind of sick but then I went to Iceland, The End,’—which is not that interesting to me, and I don’t think it would be that interesting to other people.”

In fact, the British edition of The Faraway Nearby has been given a hyphenated genre: “memoir/anti-memoir.” It’s a proposal that came directly from Solnit as part of her desire to articulate a “different sense of self.”

“The version of self we’ve been given, in some ways, by psychology and therapy—that sort of post-40 thing—it feels really reduced to me,” Solnit explains. “The relationship to the earth itself gives you this depth and breadth and height and range. It gives you a kind of vastness; and then personal is right in the middle of it, and I absolutely value it and it absolutely matters, but to me, it’s like home. You come back to it. You’re not an agoraphobic who never leaves it.”

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We’ve met on Sunday morning near the rowing club where Solnit takes to the bay on a sleek, white scull three times a week. Today, she’s decided against going out, on account of the strong, cold wind blowing across the water, and it’s appropriate that the strange June weather has created a steel-colored sky, similar to what Solnit might have seen during her stay in Iceland—one of those symmetries that’s present in so much her work.

Wearing a gray, fitted blouse over a black skirt, Solnit’s appearance mirrors the dependable elegance of her sentences, whether she’s writing about Google buses driving through San Francisco—with their darkened windows and screen-immersed tech workers—or migratory birds flying to the Arctic from all over the world. She talks of exhaustion after this particular book tour, where she’s answered too many questions about a conflicted relationship with her mother, but it doesn’t show on her face, which glows with health underneath her long, blonde-gray hair.

Throughout her career, Solnit has turned out more than 13 books and an impressive list of essays, including “Men Explain Things to Me,” wherein she coined the term “mansplaining.” In February of this year, Solnit contributed a piece to the London Review of Books taking on Google’s private buses and the erasure of the working class and creative communities in San Francisco as the city becomes a bedroom community for Silicon Valley’s tech elite. Solnit’s love of the city intertwines with a fascination with maps in 2010’s ambitious Infinite City: A San Francisco Atlas; in one example, a map of San Francisco interposes murder sites with locations of Cypress trees. (A New Orleans sequel to Infinite City, titled Unfathomable City: A New Orleans Atlas, comes out this fall.)

Now in her early 50s, and a graduate of UC Berkeley’s journalism school, Solnit has written about visual arts, politics and the West Coast since 1988; she shares space with other California writers like Mike Davis and Joan Didion, those willing to take on the Golden State as a complex and serious topic of inquiry rather than a place of kooky mysticism, Hollywood superficialities and gridlock. River of Shadows, an examination of photographer Eadweard Muybridge and his groundbreaking experiments with stop-motion photography, earned her a Guggenheim Fellowship, a Lannan Literary Award and the National Books Critics Circle Award in criticism.

Solnit approaches the interaction between humans and the natural world—its puzzles, connections and symmetries—with a blend of precision and childlike wonder. That might stem from her early years as a child growing up in a northernmost subdivision of Novato.

“It was not a particularly encouraging suburb, but there were wonderful things,” says Solnit. “A lot of kids on the block never left the asphalt, but my brothers and I were really fascinated by the natural world in different ways, and spent time there. I had fantasies about living like Native Americans, off the land and the plants. The landscape was my one good friend in elementary school.”

Connection forms the literal core of The Faraway Nearby. As Solnit’s close friend, the artist Ann Chamberlain, was dying of breast cancer, she constructed a plaster wall map of topographical reliefs of islands connected by strands of fine red thread, “like flight routes for planes or birds or neural pathways or blood vessels,” writes Solnit. And it’s a young Icelandic man with leukemia, who dies before Solnit has a chance to meet him, who forges the connections leading to her residency.

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“That piece [by Ann Chamberlain] is essentially at the exact center of the book,” Solnit says. “The whole book could be conceived of as these islands of stories connected by threads.” This is the world Solnit reminds us we all live in, the world of “waves and not particles.”

“Maybe that’s my form of mysticism, trying to see these complex patterns of influence, presence and possibility that we’re embedded in—you know, this kind of nonseparation, even when we’re supposed to be alone,” she adds.

Though some have focused on the dysfunctional aspects of Solnit’s relationship with her mother, as documented in the book, she’d rather not dwell in that space for long. Like the piles and pounds of apricots, picked from a tree after her mother’s house is sold and then deposited in Solnit’s living room, their relationship was one of decay and preservation.

“One of the things that’s been really difficult is that I went through this really beautiful seven-year journey with my mother that ended with her death,” Solnit says. “She was many people along the way, to whom I related in various ways, and everything that was difficult about the past was essentially shed in that process.”

Just a couple of weeks ago, on her way home from speaking engagements in Europe, Solnit stopped in Reykjavík to visit her friend Frida and found herself repeating the phrase “difficult but not bad.” “Easy” and “comfortable,” she says, are things that Americans have grown not only to desire but to expect. But, as Solnit touches on throughout The Faraway Nearby, death, pain, illness, aging and suffering are not exceptions in life; they are the rule—for everyone, not just the unlucky. And they just might lead a person to her ultimate destiny. But it takes a healthy dose of empathy, acceptance and interconnectedness to weather and survive these unskirtable conditions—if we survive them—with grace and dignity.

“I’m not saying ‘Go have a completely uncomfortable and hideous life,'” Solnit explains, “but sometimes you have to go through these things that aren’t so encouraging or aren’t so easy. Sometimes you have to climb the mountains, and not just walk in the flat places, because that’s taking you to the view you need to see to know where you’re going.”

You Got Buns, Hon

Five years ago, Jeff Tyler was working as a general contractor with 35 employees when he was blind-sided by the economic downturn. Years of forthcoming contracts dried up, and he was forced to sell his Hummer. Tyler spent the next two years working for other people, including a stint selling MonaVie juice, trying to figure out how to be his own boss again.

Then late one night, as he was Googling small businesses, an idea struck. “I woke my wife up early the next morning,” Tyler tells me recently, “and told her we were going into the hot dog business.”

If her skepticism was understandable—”She thought I was nuts!”—it was also, it turns out, unfounded. “I parked my cart for breakfast, lunch and dinner,” Tyler says, “and didn’t come home until I sold enough hot dogs to provide for my family.” Within three months, he’d acquired a second hot dog cart, and started Palooza Catering, a mobile catering company that now serves everything from paella to barbecue.

Turns out, the leap from Chicago-style hot dog to Chinese-inspired pork bun is relatively small. Tyler’s latest wheeled endeavor is the Bun Slinger, a converted taco truck that owes its name to the creative mind of his nine-year-old daughter, Sydney.

Together with Sean Soberg, an out-of-work carpenter he found through his hairdresser, Tyler serves up traditional Chinese bao buns ($3.50 a pop) filled with all manner of locally sourced meat, slaw and aioli. The menu offers a handful of choices: chicken with corn and jalapenos, steak with daikon, pork belly with mustard seed and onion. The requisite tofu option is so popular it sometimes sells out.

A word to the hungry: one bun will whet your appetite; you’ll need two, even three, to get full. For a well-rounded sampling, the Dictator ($15) gives you a choice of three buns served with homemade kimchi and a generous side of garlic or liberally spiced “togarashi” fries.

For Tyler, taste trumps authenticity. Blending accents of Chinese, Korean and Japanese (“togarashi” is Japanese for chili pepper), the loquacious self-taught chef is more inclined to cook with Coca-Cola (his pork belly braise) than, say, fish oil. His formal training is limited to a couple of classes at the SRJC, which he credits for inspiring him to think outside the (hot dog) bun.

But despite his creative culinary chops—he’s served Pinot, Zinfandel and Chardonnay-infused hot dog flights to great acclaim—Tyler has never worked in a restaurant, nor does he desire to open one.

“I’m too much of a free spirit,” says Tyler, who works when and where (permits withstanding) he wants to. Trafficking in both wine-country posh and business-park casual, the Bun Slinger regularly parks at Sonic.net, the Petaluma Farmer’s Market, Ragle Ranch Park, O’Reilly Media and an impressive fleet of local wineries.

Tyler also enjoys the camaraderie of the mobile-food biz. He shares plenty of pavement, as well as a commercial kitchen, with Dave Musgrave of Fish On! Chips and Gabe Nahas of Awful Falafel. On a recent Wednesday afternoon, the ticket rail finally empty after the Sonic lunch rush, Tyler and Dave bandied between their food trucks, the music cranked loud.

These days, Tyler is glad to have swapped his Hummer and “stupid jacked-up trucks” for the big yellow Bun Slinger. “This truck catches more looks than a Ferrari,” he tells me with a grin. “I’m definitely happier now, driving this thing around.”

Yep, More Zombies

This is the way the world ends—not with a bang but with a gobble. Passable but essentially dumb, World War Z, about a zombie apocalypse, has a deceptively global scope. Korea, for instance, is represented simply as a rainy dark airport, while many of the aerial shots of Jerusalem are so synthetic it’s like looking at some pastor’s mockup for Sunday school.

The finale unfolds in Cardiff, Wales, where the metaphor for civilization destroyed is a milkman’s smashed electric truck. It’s like the Father Ted parody of the movie Speed: gape over the end of Western civilization or cry over spilled milk.

Every big zombie movie—and World War Z may be big enough to kill the genre for a few years—is an exercise in weird xenobiology. Here, the zombies go into power-saver mode when there’s no one for them to bite. When human game’s afoot, the zombies call to each other like velociraptors; when they charge, they roar so loudly they gobble, like angry turkeys.

Brad Pitt, at least, knows who he’s supposed to be in the movie: a dropout former hellhole inspector for the United Nations turned stay-at-home suburban Philadelphia dad turned proactive hero. At one point in the film, severely wounded, he manages to go on a long, unlikely walk through zombie-plagued streets to find a laboratory he’s never been to before. Presumably, GPS survived the invasion.

The film cuts through Newark, South Korea, Israel, but what, exactly, interests director Marc Forster—that is the puzzler. Mostly, World War Z isn’t about anything but our stalwartness in the face of zombie attack. The mentions of degraded ecology and the weirdly Michael Crichtonesque monologues about the wanton killing power of nature are ludicrous when addressed to computer-generated hordes rushing around by the millions.

Although the film is about as coherent as a street yammerer, the movie does exist to demonstrate the heroism of Brad Pitt and his willingness to go to the wall to save his semidirected, shoved-off-to-one-side and pain-in-the-ass family.

‘World War Z’ is in wide release.

Memories Remain

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This week, music legend Marianne Faithfull flies out from Paris to take the stage under the trees of Black Oak Ranch at the Kate Wolf Memorial Festival, bringing her nearly 50 years as a recording artist to the tight-knit gathering in the woods.

Having experienced the ups of the swinging ’60s and the downs of drug addiction and depression, Faithfull has lived a life much more rough-and-tumble than that of the soothing-voiced Wolf, who while living in Sonoma County influenced countless singer-songwriters. Yet Faithfull, in her first appearance at the festival—and only one of two shows in the Bay Area—brings a worldliness that fits right in with the annual celebration of Wolf’s life, now in its 18th year.

After the soulful swing of her early ’60s hit “As Tears Go By,” Faithfull eventually descended into drug addiction; she kicked heroin to make her comeback album Strange Weather in 1986, the same year Wolf died of leukemia.

Faithfull’s ventures into blues, jazz and cabaret may be musically different than Wolf’s—remember Faithfull’s cameo on Metallica’s “Memory Remains”?—but her spirit provides the perfect setup for an evening in the forest.

The three-day festival itself is much like the experimental journey that Faithfull went through. Every year, fans make the annual pilgrimage north to the woods of Black Oak Ranch to relax, jam with friends old and new, dance and listen to great music. What started as a small event in Sebastopol has only gotten bigger after moving north. According to promoter Cloud Moss of Cumulus Productions, “There is a strong base of support in Sonoma County that followed it up there.”

Headliners this year include Angélique Kidjo, Irma Thomas, Madeleine Peyroux and the Rebirth Brass Band, as well as returnees like John Prine, Iris DeMent, Greg Brown, Dave Alvin and many others. (Of special note is local band Poor Man’s Whiskey, who released Like a River: A Tribute to Kate Wolf last year.)

On Friday, the front of the Music Bowl performing area is reserved for dancing; the festival also has a jam area and offers jam workshops. “This year we have a ukulele jam circle,” Moss says, “and every day we have Jamming 101. We have late night jams and dancing.”

The festival this year also includes Wolf’s husband Don Coffin, who participates in a Kate Wolf song-and-story set alongside some of Wolf’s other friends, Sherry Austin, Che Greenwood, Wavy Gravy, Alisa Fineman, Kimball Hurd and Hugh Shacklett.

Amid all those she touched, there are sure to be stories of a life well-lived.

In His Heyday

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That spark that’s felt somewhere at the intersection of rebellion and a belief in storytelling as medicine? That’s the essence of Malcolm Margolin and his independent publishing house, Heyday Books.

A Boston-area transplant, Margolin and his wife headed west in their VW bus in the Summer of Love. After camping and working in Canada, Mexico and the wilds of 1960s Big Sur, Margolin settled in Berkeley where he founded Heyday in 1974. He appears in a discussion with author Wendy Johnson June 29 in Point Reyes.

“I began by typesetting and designing my own books in my own house with a light table that I made,” says Margolin by phone from his Berkeley office. “It was an attempt at self-sufficiency. I didn’t want to work for anybody because I couldn’t hold a job. I wanted to create my own world.”

The world he created involved authoring several books on California Indians, including The Ohlone Way, which continues to be required reading in many of California’s college history classes. Heyday began publishing other writers, from John Steinbeck and William Saroyan to Gary Snyder and Rebecca Solnit. With about 25 new titles each year focusing on California’s complex and diverse heritage, the stories seldom heard through mainstream publishing outlets have found a platform.

“These voices seem to come in through the window,” Margolin says. “You open the door in the morning and they rush in and they all sit around the table, and you can’t get rid of them.”

Despite drastic changes in information sharing over the last four decades, Margolin, now in his 70s, refuses the notion that the world is changing for the worse.

“In a way, this whole operation is built on friendship, it’s built on people that I’ve known, it’s built on networks of people that like each other. It’s personal,” he says, “and it’s quite lovely. I come in in the morning, and I can’t believe the place is still here. I keep expecting a vacant lot with some wheat growing out of it, and that this whole thing was just a big hallucination because I took too much acid in the ’60s.”

Forty-year acid trip or not, the spirit of storytelling itself seems to keep Margolin’s spark ignited.

“I hang out on a lot of Indian reservations,” he says, “and there is a kind of story that gets told that’s so slow-moving and it’s so sensuous and it’s so connected; it moves in and out of place and it moves through people we know.

“And,” he continues, “there are parts of it that are totally comprehensible and there are parts of it that just break your heart and there are parts of it that are so funny you have to beg somebody to stop. And it just goes on and on and on, and it’s not a set piece, and it’s not like a professional storyteller with a beginning, middle and end; it’s this art of talking to people, this art of hanging out on the back porch, this art of being comfortable in somebody else’s presence.”

One could say Margolin has made a life of it.

Mad for Eames

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You know how it is sometimes when Mad Men‘s plot begins to drag but you’re not ready to stop watching though you are ready for something else to look at so you just sort of dream over Don’s furniture while you wait for the next lurid part?

We thought so. The era’s furnishings are a worthy obsession—and an enduring one.

Charles Schulz could be considered Don’s sober twin, at least in furniture. A new exhibit, “Mid-Century Modern,” running through Oct. 27 in the main gallery of his eponymous museum, celebrates Schulz’s environs as seen in his strips, enlivened as they were by clean severe lines, über-functionality and the work of Ray and Charles Eames. (A strip from the era shows Linus standing in a room of linear contemporary furniture wondering what the heck a rocking chair is.)

“His wife was really into design,” explains Schulz Museum marketing director Gina Huntsinger, pausing by a Hassel Smith painting lent for the exhibition. “So he was drawing the stuff that was in the house.”

In “Modern,” the museum staff has recreated Sparky’s strips right down to the curtain treatments and the rugs.

Best of all? No lurid parts.

A panel discussion on the enduring pleasures of the midcentury modern aesthetic featuring the editor of Dwell magazine, as well as an architect, a member of the Eames Foundation and an expert from Scandinavian Design is slated for Saturday, June 29, at the Charles M. Schulz Museum. 2301 Hardies Lane, Santa Rosa. 4pm. Free with museum admission; $5–$10. 707.579.4452.

Losin’ It

When it comes to losing weight, people do a lot of talking—about carbs, Gwyneth’s butt, treadmill desks, etc. Malene Comes, who has suffered with weight issues her entire life, doesn’t just talk the talk. She also plans to walk the walk—8,873 miles of it.

On July 20, Comes, who weighs 300 pounds, will begin walking south from Bodega Bay, continuing around the entire circumference of the country. When she returns 14 months and 26 states later, she hopes to weigh half that.

Walking against traffic on the smallest possible highways, Comes will push all of her gear in a sturdy jogging stroller, camping and couch-surfing her way south, east, north and west. To fund her trip, she is raising money for the nonprofit LiveFit Revolution, which, after paying her expenses, will devote all the remaining proceeds to empowering other obese people in their quest to lose weight.

“Obesity is a painful medical condition,” Comes says, “that is made so much worse by the discrimination we face every single day.” Her wake-up call came when her biological mother died at the age of 56, weighing 450 pounds. “I’m 41,” Comes tells me over the phone, “and in 15 years I don’t want to wind up like that.”

To donate, trace the route, or find out more about Comes’ trip, see www.traveltheunitedstates.wordpress.com.

California Roots Festival Highlights: Slideshow

Festival photos up! Click HERE to see photos from California Roots Music & Art Festival in Monterey, California. Many thanks to photographers Kathryn Gleason and James LeDeau.

Rebelution - photo by Kathryn Gleason

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Five years ago, Jeff Tyler was working as a general contractor with 35 employees when he was blind-sided by the economic downturn. Years of forthcoming contracts dried up, and he was forced to sell his Hummer. Tyler spent the next two years working for other people, including a stint selling MonaVie juice, trying to figure out how to be...

Yep, More Zombies

This is the way the world ends—not with a bang but with a gobble. Passable but essentially dumb, World War Z, about a zombie apocalypse, has a deceptively global scope. Korea, for instance, is represented simply as a rainy dark airport, while many of the aerial shots of Jerusalem are so synthetic it's like looking at some pastor's mockup...

Memories Remain

This week, music legend Marianne Faithfull flies out from Paris to take the stage under the trees of Black Oak Ranch at the Kate Wolf Memorial Festival, bringing her nearly 50 years as a recording artist to the tight-knit gathering in the woods. Having experienced the ups of the swinging '60s and the downs of drug addiction and depression, Faithfull...

In His Heyday

That spark that's felt somewhere at the intersection of rebellion and a belief in storytelling as medicine? That's the essence of Malcolm Margolin and his independent publishing house, Heyday Books. A Boston-area transplant, Margolin and his wife headed west in their VW bus in the Summer of Love. After camping and working in Canada, Mexico and the wilds of 1960s...

Mad for Eames

You know how it is sometimes when Mad Men's plot begins to drag but you're not ready to stop watching though you are ready for something else to look at so you just sort of dream over Don's furniture while you wait for the next lurid part? We thought so. The era's furnishings are a worthy obsession—and an enduring one. Charles...

Losin’ It

When it comes to losing weight, people do a lot of talking—about carbs, Gwyneth's butt, treadmill desks, etc. Malene Comes, who has suffered with weight issues her entire life, doesn't just talk the talk. She also plans to walk the walk—8,873 miles of it. On July 20, Comes, who weighs 300 pounds, will begin walking south from Bodega Bay, continuing...

California Roots Festival Highlights: Slideshow

Festival photos up! Click HERE to see photos from California Roots Music & Art Festival in Monterey, California. Many thanks to photographers Kathryn Gleason and James LeDeau.
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