Another Savvy Swirl

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By James Knight

For a remote archipelago in the South Pacific, New Zealand has had an outsized impact on the world of wine. Tardy to the party, the Kiwis had such good luck in the export market with Sauvignon Blanc that it’s hard to talk about the varietal without clarifying whether it’s a “New Zealand–style,” i.e., an overtly fresh, fruity, but dry wine with aromas of gooseberries and fresh-cut green grass—things that many of us in California either know nothing about or that threaten to become increasingly rare.

Or is it more of a Sancerre style? Similar to Sauvignon Blanc from France’s Loire Valley, these are, broadly speaking, supposed to be lean and highly acidic, and with more of a sense of “minerality” (i.e., sucking on rocks) than fruit flavor. Stuck in the middle, many North Coast producers seem to be chasing one style or the other. But are these regions so distinct that someone with a little knowledge can identify two randomly purchased wines in a lineup with North Coast Sauvignon Blanc? Let’s find out.

Murphy Goode 2013 Fumé North Coast Sauvignon Blanc ($14) This one’s lightly toasty and subtle in aroma, with lemon blossom and unripe pear. The smoky splinter of oak in the nose comes from the portion of this blend that was fermented in barrels, à la Fumé Blanc (a California term invented by Robert Mondavi). An altogether agreeable sipper. Guess: California.

Rodney Strong 2013 Charlotte’s Home, Northern Sonoma Sauvignon Blanc ($17) Floral aroma with odd hint of cherry-flavored mineral water. Tart lemon, pear flavor, and a little smoky. Guess: California.

Chateau Montelena 2013 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($35) Canary melon, cantaloupe, lemon candy; just enough banana chip, melon, and sweet-sour lemon to round out a pleasant palate. Guess: California.

Domaine André Vatan 2013 Sancerre, Les Charmes (around $17) With green aromas of grass and watermelon rind leaping from the glass, this is a sure-fire New Zealand Savvy, I guess. I’m wrong—the palate-scouring acidity might have been the tipoff.

Matua 2013 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc (around $8) With its musty aroma, more than a hint of vomitus—surely the French have a prettier word for it—and gumballs, this comes from an award-winning New Zealand producer. I guess Sancerre, but I’m three for five on the “California style” Sauv Blancs, which are bright and zippy, all. Distinct, yes; lesser, not at all.

Eat a Peach

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Dry Creek’s other fruit deserves
notice, too.

Healdsburg’s Dry Creek Valley is known for its Zinfandel, but this fertile region of Sonoma County has more than just grapes to give—the peaches may be even more incredible.

Dry Creek Peach and Produce grows some of the finest—and highest priced—peaches around. But don’t let the price tag scare you. In the mood for peach jam, I spied the stand at the farmers market and boisterously proclaimed, “Ah-ha! Exactly what I’ve been looking for!”

I put the jar of jam in my bag, and the vendor flatly asked for $10.

I’m sure my face went pale, but I forked it over in shock. My wife even joked that I was “suckered” into paying way too much for a standard jar of jam.

But then we tasted it, and our minds were blown.

The next week we went back and told the vendor this story, and he listened with hesitation, probably wondering why we were exuberantly telling him he charged way too much for his own product. But he finally smiled when we suggested he change the name to “$20 Jam,” because, in all honesty, it’s worth that much.

We bought peaches that day and found the jam’s secret was not in its other three ingredients (sugar, pectin, acid), but the fruit itself. Pair a peach with some goat cheese and a lush Dry Creek Zinfandel, and prepare for a magical mystery tour of delicious proportions.

Built to Last

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I’ve never been to Idaho, but based solely on the state’s greatest export of the last two decades—the expressive, expansive Built to Spill—Idaho seems like a strange and wonderful land.

Founder and frontman Doug Martsch has led the group in an ever-evolving experiment of expertly crafted rock and roll since forming the band in Boise in 1993. Built to Spill play the Uptown Theatre in Napa on Aug. 15.

At first, the group existed as a sprawling jangle of messy guitars and off-tempo grunge, taking cues from influences like Sonic Youth and Dinosaur Jr. Eventually, Built to Spill found their own sound, first heard on their breakthrough 1994 album, There’s Nothing Wrong with Love. Here, the band effortlessly focused their multi-guitar approach into a fragile and bouncy album of indie pop. The track “Car” hooked a whole fan base who to this day call for the song at the end of every concert. Suddenly, Built to Spill was in the national spotlight.

Soon, Martsch and company were signed to major label Warner Brothers, and based on their previously poppy release, were poised to offer radio-friendly rock. What they produced was instead a conceptually immersive and radio-unfriendly effort that was also easily their best yet.

Nineteen ninety-seven’s Perfect from Now On is only eight tracks long, yet it’s an epic record; its shortest song clocks in at over five minutes. This album showcased the band’s ability to build on melodies with a three-part guitar interplay that eclipses normal guitar solos the way the moon eclipses the sun.

Through the next decade, Martsch continued to evolve, from fractured alt-rock to polished pop and beyond. The band’s most recent album, 2009’s There Is No Enemy, is another step into uncharted realms of pulsing, fuzzed riffs and catchy melodies.

For all the acclaim their albums receive, Built to Spill is a band that needs to be heard live. This week, the group makes their way to the North Bay before playing several shows in San Francisco. This chance to catch the band in the intimate setting of the historic Uptown is not to be missed.

Knock Out

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‘When I was first asked to play the character of Steppin Fetchit, my initial reaction was shock,” says actor Roscoe Orman, describing the moment, in 1993, when he was given a one-man play titled
The Life and Times of Steppin Fetchit. “I was a little bit offended,” Orman admits.

“I didn’t really know that much about Lincoln Perry,” Orman continues, “the real man behind the character of Steppin Fetchit. I knew that he was a controversial figure, an actor who had been seriously criticized for creating a negative portrayal of black people. But that was about all.”

The playwright who asked Orman to play the part was Matt Robinson, who originally created the piece for himself. A longtime writer and producer for television, Robinson was the first actor to play the beloved character of Gordon on the PBS children’s show Sesame Street. The second actor to play Gordon was Roscoe Orman, who went on to play Gordon for 40 years.

As it turns out, Orman was impressed with Robinson’s play. After a successful run in New York City, he went on to tour it internationally, off and on, for the next 12 years.

This week, he steps into the character again. This time, though, it’s in a powerful new play by writer Will Power. Titled Fetch Clay, Make Man, the play—kicking off the Marin Theatre Company’s new season—explores the real-life friendship between Perry and boxing legend Muhammed Ali.

“It was an interesting, intriguing, extremely dramatic relationship,” says Orman, who saw the play in New York last year and immediately knew he wanted to appear in it the next time it was produced. “Having played the man himself for such a long period,” he says, “I think you could say I’m bringing a certain expertise to my portrayal of the character. So here I am, appearing as Steppin Fetchit for the season opener of the Marin Theatre Company.”

Asked to illuminate any differences in character that might exist between the two very different plays, Orman says it’s not easy to compare them.

“Perry was a controversial figure, but he was a very important figure: the first black actor in Hollywood films to have an extended and successful career,” Orman says. “Both playwrights have discovered the man behind the myth—and let me tell you, he was quite an amazing man.”

‘Fetch Clay, Make Man’ runs Tuesday–Sunday, Aug. 14–Sept. 7 at the Marin Theatre Company. 397 Miller Ave., Mill Valley. Times vary. $20–$58. 415.388.5208.

Debriefer: August 13, 2014

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NEWSOM HIGH ON POT

State Lt. Gov. Gavin Newsom told an enthusiastic crowd in Marin County last week that he supports legal weed, with the usual and expected caveat: Keep the boo away from junior until he’s at least old enough to drive.

Our bud Newsom’s long-held pro-legalization posture is at odds with ol’ Gov. Jerry Brown, who opposes legalization and whose economy-boosting priorities these days revolve around the great cosmic death frack.

If Newsom were running the show, he’d let the Cali-cool freak flag fly proud, pungent and profitable. Legalization is a far more popular stimulus option among the progressive base that Brown’s been bogarting all these years.

But Brown’s a shoe-in for reelection this year, he don’t need no stinkin’ progressives, and the pot issue is neutralized anyway since Brown’s opponent in the fall election, Republican Neel Kashkari, also opposes legalization.

Yet Kashkari (shown) made headlines of late when he “dressed up” like a homeless person in order to, you know, get a feel for the street life. We think he might have been trying to score some Mexican dirt-weed as a way to take the sting out of his party’s anti-immigrant animus, but that’s just us. Get yourself a dispensary card, brother. That street stuff is bunk.

For Gen X pol Newsom, this is no mere dab into pot politics. The Kentfield resident lit up the joint in Marin when he told the crowd, as reported in the Marin Independent Journal, that he’d stump around the state for a 2016 legalization ballot measure.

Newsom’s pro-pot speech came on the heels of a stunning recent New York Times editorial that laid out the rolling-paper of record’s newfound pro-legalization posture, despite Maureen Dowd’s recent and hilarious psychotic encounter with a pot-laced candy bar in a Colorado hotel room. If the gray lady can get with the greenery, can the S.F. Chronic be far behind?

Newsom has on occasion huffed and puffed about running for higher office—he would have run for governor this year if Brown had bowed out of the race—and Debriefer’s down with that plan: Aim high, sir! The people are with you on this one.

DOGS AT THE TABLE

Speaking of Jerry Brown going completely to the dogs, the governor has a bill headed to his desk that he better sign—oh, but he better! Yes, Debriefer is referring to our favorite bill outta Sacramento this year, our pet bill, Napa assemblywoman Mariko Yamada’s dogs-in-restaurants bill, which would localize decisions about whether Fido’s welcome in al fresco dining settings. Her office e-blasted Debriefer with the news last week that the bill made it through both houses in Sacramento. Roll a bone and go for it, Gov.

PENSION PUFFERS

And in other wacky-tobaccy news we first read about in the Marin IJ, Nels Johnson had a great zinger in his piece last Friday about Marin County supervisors barring the sale of tobacco in unincorporated parts of the county. Johnson took the opportunity to remind readers about the county’s pension fund: “The supervisors barred tobacco sales without mentioning the county pension system’s
$8.7 million investment in tobacco stocks, half of it in Philip Morris.” Love that unfiltered reporting, Nels.—Tom Gogola

In Da Club

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In 2008, the California Teachers Association declared a “state of fiscal emergency” when the state’s education budget was slashed by $18 billion. Libraries went unstaffed, teachers were laid off and schools closed, including some in the North Bay.

Enter the Boys & Girls Club, whose Roseland Elementary School site was honored in June by the Boys & Girls Clubs of America as the best in the country—out of more than 4,000 contenders.

“It’s almost like winning the best movie award at the Oscars,” says Jason Weiss, co-CEO of the Boys & Girls Clubs of Central Sonoma County. “What’s unique for us is we run the same program at all our club locations. For us, it felt more like an organizational award.”

The Boys & Girls Club steps up when budgets are slashed and programs cut. It’s more than just a place for kids to hang out until parents can pick them up—each club tailors its offerings to fit the needs of each site. If a school had its physical-education program cut, a club can offer it as an activity. Library shut down? The club will put extra attention on reading and literacy tutoring. Art program canceled? You get the picture.

“We have more flexibility than the school does during the day,” says Weiss. “Our whole goal when we open on a campus is to be a partner at that school. We have a lot of communication with the principal and teachers.”

If programs are cut, he says, “we can very often fill some of those gaps for the kids.”

The club serves at least a hundred students at each site, says Weiss, most of whom are from disadvantaged circumstances. “We’re filled to the max at these places,” he says.

The Sonoma County program came about through a years-long centralization process that put 28 individual clubs in the county under one umbrella organization, which is by far the largest in the North Bay. There are also independent groups in Sonoma and Petaluma, the latter of which has eight clubs in Petaluma and three in Marin County. The Boys & Girls Club of Napa Valley has 11 clubs in Napa and American Canyon.

At Roseland Elementary, principal Dana Pedersen says the club serves about 200 of the school’s 650 students, 90 percent of whom are Hispanic. “And we always have a waiting list,” she says. “It gives students, especially second-language learners, access to important skills and language practice.”

Roseland’s was the first on-site club in the district, and its success spawned other clubs. Now it’s an essential part of the school. “It’s just an extension of who we are,” says Pedersen. “Our students would really suffer without them.”

The club takes great care to integrate the school’s curriculum with their own. “They have their own services, but they complement our services really well,” says Pedersen.

“For us, it effects the wholeness of a child, in a certain way,” says Weiss. “If they’re missing out on things that kids 30 years ago used to get in school that really completed their childhood, that’s something we try to pick up the slack on.”

The club’s funding comes mostly from government grants and private donations; 10 percent of its budget comes out of fees and dues charged to members. . The Boys & Girls Clubs of Central Sonoma County runs on an annual budget of just over $5 million and doesn’t have to worry about state budget crises. “The government funding we receive from the state of California is designated for after-school programs and would require a vote of the people to overturn,” says Weiss.

The investment has paid off. The group has the 12th largest daily attendance among 1,000 clubs around the country, and serves almost 3,500 after-school students each day at 28 sites, 20 of which are located at the schools themselves.

And they’re making the most of the centralized organization. The group received a recent grant for 50 iPads and created a mobile technology center that rotates between clubs, which gives all students access to the tools, instead of just those lucky enough to attend a certain school.

“They pride themselves on providing quality programming,” says Pedersen.

Gourmet Raised

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A restaurant’s kitchen is no place for kids. Typically, it’s an intense maelstrom of activity with battle-scarred hands intensely absorbed in the craft: they chop and measure, they mince and mix.

There are knives, flames and pots boiling water everywhere, and the din of voices is barely audible over the soundtrack of Metallica or Mozart (depending on the tastes of the chef).

While the atmosphere of organized chaos may not be the ideal setting for children, for some, it’s the only life they know.

“We had a crib in the restaurant,” says Karen Martin, chef and co-owner of K&L Bistro in Sebastopol.

Martin recollects the early days when she and her husband, Lucas, were starting out. The couple has two sons, Jack and Lucas Jr. “I worked the line with [Lucas] on my back,” says Martin. “We couldn’t afford to have a babysitter, so the boys were here every night. It’s been a long haul for them.”

But she said the experience was positive because they were always together.

In a culture that encourages instant gratification, particularly when it comes to food, kids of chefs have a kind of built-in gratitude that comes from being around all that good food and learning its source first-hand. For these kids, a suppertime special of soubise of duck is as commonplace as the reliably kid-friendly mac ‘n’ cheese. Martin says her boys, now age 10 and 13, eat junk food on occasion but they “both have an exquisite palate and will eat stuff that other kids won’t.”

Growing up gourmet has meant her sons understand “food in its rawest form,” says Martin, who beams with pride at her sons’ appreciation of that fact.

Louis Maldonado, executive chef at Spoonbar and a Top Chef finalist, says his five-year-old son, Benjamin, has been exposed to a variety of foods and ingredients not typically seen on the kids’ menu. His mother, who is Korean, introduced him to kimchi. The Korean staple is typically served with a nutritious accompaniment of rice and vegetables. “[He] doesn’t shy away from anything.” Maldonado says. “He is huge on raw food, [but] not really crazy about steak.”

Maldonado says his son also understands where everything comes from, which results in a deeper appreciation of the food put before him. When the family does go out for dinner, Maldonado says it’s mostly for Mexican or sushi. The family has a three-times-a-year policy when it comes to In-N-Out Burger or McDonald’s.

The cuisine at Santa Rosa’s Bistro 29 emphasizes regional French (Bretagne) food, but owner Brian Anderson mixes it up for his two teen children at home, where Thai noodles are a house fave. Anderson opened Bistro 29 with his wife, Francoise, in 2008—daughter Claire worked in the kitchen when she was 13—and wanted to expose Sonoma County residents to cuisine local to Brittany. (Buckwheat crêpes are a specialty)

In that time, Claire and her brother, Tom, have both developed sophisticated, adventurous palates. “They love oysters and tongue tacos,” Anderson says. “My son is a big meat eater—duck, steak,” while Claire is more likely to enjoy “salad and a charcuterie plate with some nice cheese.

“They are very expensive to take out,” he says.

Recipes for kids

Pasta sauce from Karen Martin of K & L Bistro:

“Here is the recipe for the pasta sauce that is such a hit with my kids. It is usually served with the long, telephone cord noodles, but those are expensive and hard to find so you could substitute fusilli.” Karen Martin.

1 lb. ground pork

1 yellow onion (diced)

1 TBSP garlic (minced)

1 TBSP salt

2 TBSP pepper

Cook these together until the meat turns color and the onion is translucent.

Add:

1 cup white wine

1 6-oz can tomato paste

1 cup whole milk

Let cook together for about 15-20 minutes on a low simmer. Toss with cooked noodles of your choice and top with lots of grated Parmesan. Karen likes more black pepper on top and adds chili flakes, but some people might find that too spicy.

Roast chicken, pickled golden raisins, chicories, and green garlic from
Louis Maldonado of Spoonbar Restaurant:

Serves 4

1 5-pound chicken, trussed

400g kosher salt

4 liters water

1 bunch thyme

1 head garlic

1 bunch tarragon

¼ pound butter

Mix the water and salt and whisk till fully incorporated, add the chicken and brine for 3 hours, remove and let dry for 36-48 hours.

In a large sauté pan or cast iron heat the pan till smoking hot, add 4 TBSP oil and start to sear the chicken, breast side first and then rotating to get all the sides golden. Add thyme, garlic, tarragon and butter and put into a 325 degree oven. Baste every 15 minutes for 2 hours, remove and let rest for 20 minutes before carving.

Pickled golden raisins

2 cups golden raisins

1 cup red wine vinegar

1 cup sugar

2 cups water

Bring everything to a boil and slowly reduce till the syrup is dry and glazes the raisins.

Chicories and green garlic

3 bunch mixed chicories, separated into leaves. Chard or kale works, too.

½ pound green garlic, cut into 1-inch slices

4 TBSP olive oil

Saute green garlic in olive oil till tender and then add the chicories. Lightly wilt and season with salt

To finish

Carve the breast of the chicken first and cut into 4 pieces, cut the chicken legs off and cut the legs in half. Serve a piece of breast and leg, garnish with the pickled raisins, green garlic and chicories.

New Discoveries

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Fifteen years ago, mother and Petaluma native Collette Michaud encountered the age-old question: “What to do with the kids?” There’s a lot of ways to kill some time, but Michaud wanted her two young sons to engage in meaningful activities.

That’s when she heard about Sausalito’s Bay Area Discovery Museum, a place that sparked imaginative thinking and highlighted the natural wonders of the bay. “I fell in love with the Discovery Museum,” says Michaud, who was immediately taken by the museum’s engaging exhibits.

Soon she started looking for ways to bring that same experience to Sonoma County. “There was something in me saying it’s going to happen [in Sonoma County], and if you don’t do it, someone will. So it might as well be you,” Michaud says. “But it has become so much bigger and better than I could imagine it would be.”

In 2005, she and a small staff started a mobile museum that became popular in schools and parks throughout Sonoma County. For Michaud, that was the first step in establishing a permanent space. Michaud’s vision finally found a home in 2010, when Jean Schulz gifted the Children’s Museum of Sonoma County a 30-year lease on the 4.2-acre property adjacent to the Schulz Museum in Santa Rosa.

As the lease was being negotiated, Michaud and her staff were also applying for a grant to make use of the outdoor space. After an impassioned presentation, the California Parks and Recreation Department awarded the museum $1.8 million for an outdoors exhibit.

“I wanted it to be a garden first, as opposed to an exhibit with outdoor features,” says Michaud. The garden’s theme revolves around the life cycle of the butterfly, and taking the Spanish name “Mariposa,” the space is called Mary’s Garden.

“I always wanted to have a creek with natural features that show what makes Sonoma County special,” explains Michaud. Today, a 60-foot-long recreation of the Russian River centers the garden.

Inside, the museum’s Ella Art Studio and Dow Events Center cater to children 10 and younger, though parents are able to enjoy and engage as well.

The museum went full-time last June, and is still raising money to finish the space, with an $8.3 million capital campaign nearing completion. Next month, the museum hosts its annual “Time to Wonder” luncheon on Sept. 18 to help raise funds for ongoing programming.

For now, Michaud is focused on completing the museum’s next phase, the indoor Science and Imagination Gallery set to open in 2015. The character and flavor of Sonoma County will be highlighted once more in a main street exhibit that offers kids and parents more ways to engage in meaningful fun.

The Children’s Museum of Sonoma County, 1835 West Steele Lane, Santa Rosa. Tuesday–Saturday, 9am–4pm; Sunday, noon–4pm. $7. 707.546.4069.

Letters to the Editor: August 13, 2014

Bond—JC Bond

I’m writing to let readers know about the extensive public oversight of a potential Santa Rosa Junior College bond measure (Debriefer, July 30). If voters approve the SRJC bond this fall, there will be an independent citizen bond oversight committee whose meetings, minutes and annual reports will be public, and there will be annual independent, public audits (as required by state law). Members will be required to come from throughout the community.

All of the funds from this measure will stay local and will be spent to improve the JC—none of it can be taken by the state government, and Sacramento politicians will have no say in how the funds are used.

These bond revenues may be spent only for facilities and technology. They may not be used for any salaries or other college operating expenses.

Director of Communication & Marketing, Santa Rosa Junior College

Drakes Bay

I would like to respond to Mr. Gogola’s thoughts on our oyster industry (Open Mic, July 30). So you went down there and observed the oyster farm. Did you take a ride out on the oyster boats into their “fields”? I did. We went through the harbor seal rookery at 15 to 20 mph; every seal head was erect, a sign of alert. Several slipped into the water. This is harassment of an animal that exactly 100 years ago numbered 30 along the entire California coast. The highly alerted in harbor seals causes cortisol to run through them, which in large amounts can kill.

We were part of the study to find out if Drakes Bay Oyster Co. posed a threat to the bay or the ocean. We specialize in plastics. The plastic bags that the oysters are grown in are made of a heavy plastic mesh. For the first three months that this plastic sits in salt water, it releases petrochemicals. We find these bags and their remains from Sonoma to Monterey. We have personally picked up thousands. Albatrosses take parts of these killing machines back to Midway Island and feed them to their babies.

Drakes’ operation was not pristine. DDT was sprayed around the dairies. Plastic has PCBs as one of its components, and it has been proven that DDT combined with PCBs condensed in the flesh of aquatic animals consumed by marine mammals causes cancer, and we are marine mammals. To get a real awakening, Google “what is plastic made of” and then Google “affects on humans.” Pay special attention to phthalates. To Drakes Bay Oyster Co., it has been about jobs and money. To the hundreds of sanctuary volunteers that carried out the studies that found Drakes a threat to our environment, it’s about the ocean, always has been, always will be.

Sebastopol

Double Standards in Gaza

Yes, Norman Solomon, Israel should apologize to Hamas and the unfortunates of Gaza, but only when the British, Australian and American governments issue avowals of retrospective contrition for the carpet bombing of German and Japanese cities to “rid them of arms manufacture placed in civilian neighborhoods,” then go on to destroy rocket launch sites. (Letters, July 23). And we need to accept that more non-combatants than soldiers died on D-Day, Okinawa and many of the other battles that contributed to the defeat of fascism and our national identities.

On that note, let’s keep thinking about this implied double standard between now and when the commemorative ceremonies extolling the end of the Good War are unfurled later next year. More to the point, if Allied commanders had applied the same standards we’re now demanding of Israel, we’d all be speaking German or Japanese (while, undoubtedly, some of my family and, I suspect, yours would be in or near a Nazi gas oven). Ah, the unintended consequences of purity!

Richman is the former general manager of The Bohemian’s forerunner, The Paper

Brisbane, Australia

Live Vegan, Protect Water

Last weekend, the drinking water of 400,000 Toledo residents was fouled by animal waste. With unfettered growth of animal agriculture and ineffective discharge regulations, it will happen again in our own state.

The problem has become pervasive. Waste from chicken farms has rendered the ocean off the East Coast unfit for fishing. Waste from Midwest cattle ranches carried by the Mississippi River has created a permanent “dead zone” in the Gulf of Mexico larger than that of the infamous 2010 BP oil spill.

Animal agriculture dumps more pollution to our waterways than all other human activities combined. Manure and fertilizers promote growth of toxic algae that poison drinking water supplies.

Effective regulations to limit dumping of animal waste into water supplies have been blocked by the meat industry.

Fortunately, every one of us has the power to stop this outrage three times a day by saying no to polluting meat and dairy products. Our local supermarkets offer ample alternatives.

Santa Rosa

Write to us at le*****@******an.com.

Brave Hearts

Reviewing the first Narnia movie, critic Anthony Lane mulled over the mixed metaphor of making Aslan the Lion a leonine Jesus. Conditioned like every ex-Catholic to tear up at the Passion, I still snickered when the Ice Queen Tilda Swinton ordered, “Let him be shaved!”

Elton John’s hit “Someone Shaved My Lion Last Night” came to mind, but Lane put the problem more coherently. Is it better to have a lion representing the Divine, persecuted by humanity? Would such a Christian critter be more like the abused, patient Balthazar the donkey in Robert Bresson’s 1966 classic Au Hasard Balthazar?

The Irish import Calvary restages Jesus’ last climb as a week on the Irish coast, with a baffled accidental martyr, played by the great Brendan Gleeson, much like poor Balthazar in gentleness, animal strength and, of course, shagginess. Gleeson’s Father James is a priest of County Sligo; as told here, the town he serves has pretty much given up on Catholicism as a bad joke.

James is informed by a parishioner (whose face he cannot see in the confessional booth) that he is to be shot next Sunday. James is an innocent who will die for the sins of the Church—punishment for all the pedophiliac rapes the bishops covered up. The Father has a week to figure out who his assassin might be.

Suspicions arise that director-writer John Michael McDonagh is doing what novelist Patrick McGinley does—that is, using a less-than-airtight murder mystery to serve as a study of rural Irish awfulness. Still, the suspects are anything but usual. They include Chris O’Dowd as a cuckold who runs a grisly butcher shop, and the ineffable Dylan Moran as a millionaire swine, boozing away the shame of having driven the Irish economy straight into the bog.

The final dirge by the Paraguayan folk band Los Chiriguanos fails to make this too sad to watch. Title aside, Calvary is tragic-comic. Like the old story from which it takes its title, it turns mysterious and brave.

‘Calvary’ is showing at the Century Regency, 280 Smith Ranch Road, San Rafael. 415.479.6496.

Another Savvy Swirl

By James Knight For a remote archipelago in the South Pacific, New Zealand has had an outsized impact on the world of wine. Tardy to the party, the Kiwis had such good luck in the export market with Sauvignon Blanc that it's hard to talk about the varietal without clarifying whether it's a "New Zealand–style," i.e., an overtly fresh, fruity,...

Eat a Peach

Dry Creek's other fruit deserves notice, too. Healdsburg's Dry Creek Valley is known for its Zinfandel, but this fertile region of Sonoma County has more than just grapes to give—the peaches may be even more incredible. Dry Creek Peach and Produce grows some of the finest—and highest priced—peaches around. But don't let the price tag scare you. In the mood for...

Built to Last

I've never been to Idaho, but based solely on the state's greatest export of the last two decades—the expressive, expansive Built to Spill—Idaho seems like a strange and wonderful land. Founder and frontman Doug Martsch has led the group in an ever-evolving experiment of expertly crafted rock and roll since forming the band in Boise in 1993. Built to Spill...

Knock Out

'When I was first asked to play the character of Steppin Fetchit, my initial reaction was shock," says actor Roscoe Orman, describing the moment, in 1993, when he was given a one-man play titled The Life and Times of Steppin Fetchit. "I was a little bit offended," Orman admits. "I didn't really know that much about Lincoln Perry," Orman continues,...

Debriefer: August 13, 2014

NEWSOM HIGH ON POT State Lt. Gov. Gavin Newsom told an enthusiastic crowd in Marin County last week that he supports legal weed, with the usual and expected caveat: Keep the boo away from junior until he's at least old enough to drive. Our bud Newsom's long-held pro-legalization posture is at odds with ol' Gov. Jerry Brown, who opposes legalization and...

In Da Club

In 2008, the California Teachers Association declared a "state of fiscal emergency" when the state's education budget was slashed by $18 billion. Libraries went unstaffed, teachers were laid off and schools closed, including some in the North Bay. Enter the Boys & Girls Club, whose Roseland Elementary School site was honored in June by the Boys & Girls Clubs of...

Gourmet Raised

A restaurant's kitchen is no place for kids. Typically, it's an intense maelstrom of activity with battle-scarred hands intensely absorbed in the craft: they chop and measure, they mince and mix. There are knives, flames and pots boiling water everywhere, and the din of voices is barely audible over the soundtrack of Metallica or Mozart (depending on the tastes of...

New Discoveries

Fifteen years ago, mother and Petaluma native Collette Michaud encountered the age-old question: "What to do with the kids?" There's a lot of ways to kill some time, but Michaud wanted her two young sons to engage in meaningful activities. That's when she heard about Sausalito's Bay Area Discovery Museum, a place that sparked imaginative thinking and highlighted the natural...

Letters to the Editor: August 13, 2014

Bond—JC Bond I'm writing to let readers know about the extensive public oversight of a potential Santa Rosa Junior College bond measure (Debriefer, July 30). If voters approve the SRJC bond this fall, there will be an independent citizen bond oversight committee whose meetings, minutes and annual reports will be public, and there will be annual independent, public audits (as...

Brave Hearts

Reviewing the first Narnia movie, critic Anthony Lane mulled over the mixed metaphor of making Aslan the Lion a leonine Jesus. Conditioned like every ex-Catholic to tear up at the Passion, I still snickered when the Ice Queen Tilda Swinton ordered, "Let him be shaved!" Elton John's hit "Someone Shaved My Lion Last Night" came to mind, but Lane put...
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