Oregon Calling

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To celebrate 20 years of crazy, Siduri Wines is hosting an all-Oregon winetasting at its Santa Rosa winery on July 8. The crazy is making Oregon Pinot Noir in California, an affliction the folks at Siduri share with Lompoc’s Fiddlehead Cellars and Kathyrn Hall’s WALT Wines. Joining them will be some of Oregon’s best, including Argyle, Soter, Eyrie and Ponzi. For serious Pinot Noir fans with a limited travel budget, this isn’t just another “unique winetasting experience.” This is Christmas in July.

But why Oregon, when we’re lousy already with the Pinot down here? Siduri winemaker Adam Lee just stumbled into it when the general manager at Lambert Bridge (where Lee custom-crushed his first wines) offered some Pinot Noir he was growing in Oregon. Since then, Lee has logged countless miles making the 700-mile commute to the Willamette Valley—10 to 12 trips each vintage.

Lee says that making Oregon Pinot Noir has paid off in more than case sales. For example, the notoriously cool, rainy 2011 vintage in California was fairly Oregonian in its rough outlines. But lessons learned in the Willamette Valley helped Siduri ace the vintage. And as some California vintners move toward cooler growing areas to make lower alcohol, higher acid wines, our neighbors to the north have been doing this for more than 40 years.

“Maybe there’s something of a preview, or a hint, of what some of our wines will be like in tasting Oregon Pinots,” Lee says.

Siduri’s 2013 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($22) shows up a little spicy, or volatile, on the nose—due to a valley-wide fruit-fly problem in 2013—but it’s dry plum-cranberry paste, not jammy, all the way down the fine finish. Also a Jackson Family Wines property (Siduri was snapped up this year), Gran Moraine made a 2013 Yamhill-Carlton Pinot Noir ($45) that I pegged as Willamette blind against five California Pinots (two Anderson Valley, so hooray for me there) because of the wine’s sinewy smokiness—bacon on a fire-pit grill.

Nothing necessarily Oregon about that, it’s just that at an Oregon Pinot tasting in 2012, so much of the product shared a similar scent that I asked if they were using the same brand of barrel, or what was the story. An essence of grilled cranberry, the silky fruit grips lightly to the palate and fades slowly, like the ring of a bell—your Oregon “aha” moment.

Siduri Wines, 981 E. Airway Court, Santa Rosa. Oregon event: Wednesday, July 8, 2015, 5–7pm. Tickets $25 advance, $30 after
July 5 and at the door. 707.578.3882.

Let the Good Times Roll

Cycling is a great way to stay physically active. Biking is a carbon-free means of commuting and getting out of soul-sucking traffic. Slowing down and riding a bike lets you see things you would otherwise miss locked inside a speeding car. But the best reason to ride a bike is that it’s fun. And we need more fun.

The North Bay’s scenic coastal and vineyard roads and rocky trails through redwood and oak forests make the area a cycling mecca. As summer shifts into high gear, we celebrate two-wheeled pleasures with our first annual cycling issue and survey of the North’s Bay’s cycling scene. Also, on page 14, see where to get an espresso and bike tune-up, and find our story about the new Marin Museum of Bicycling and Mountain Bike Hall of Fame in Fairfax on page 21. Have a look, and then go for a ride.—Stett Holbrook

FITZ CYCLEZ

The garage is fertile ground for creative minds, be they musicians, engineers or artists. John Fitzgerald’s garage is no exception. In the back of his
St. Rose neighborhood home in Santa Rosa, amid the washer and dryer and tidy storage boxes, Fitzgerald builds beautiful steel bicycle frames for a devoted clientele under the Fitz Cyclez (fitzcyclez.com) brand.

The dirt trails and winding roads of the North Bay have long been a draw for cyclists and frame builders. The list of North Bay bike builders is long and storied: Joe Breeze (Breezer), Scot Nicol (Ibis), Ross Shafer (Salsa), Josh Ray (Soulcraft). Great riding attracts great frame builders.

But it was affordable housing, not cycling, that drew Fitzgerald and his family to relocate to Santa Rosa from San Francisco one year ago. The cycling scene was a bonus.

“The roads here are perfect for it,” says Fitzgerald, who has been building bikes for 10 years.

Fitzgerald, 43, a lanky man with glasses and a long goatee, began working on bikes during his time with AmeriCorps in Austin, Texas, as part of the Yellow Bike Project, a nonprofit bicycle-advocacy group. He went on to apprentice in frame building for Rock Lobster in Santa Cruz and Banjo Cycles in Madison, Wis., before setting out on his own almost four years ago.

Fitzgerald specializes in road and randonneur bikes. Randonneur bikes are built for all-weather, day-and-night, long distance rides. As such, the bikes have fenders, light systems and smalls racks for holding food and gear during self-supported rides.

“It’s a niche market that the big guys aren’t tapping into,” Fitzgerald says.

Randonneuring began in France as an alternative to competitive cycling. Randonneuring is not about racing, but getting from A to B and enjoying the ride and the company of fellow cyclists along the way. In events called brevets, riders must complete a course with stops at checkpoints along the way in set times, no earlier and no later.

While carbon fiber and full suspension bikes are all the rage, steel is Fitzgerald’s material of choice. It’s the material he knows best, and it appeals to his old-school aesthetic. He’s drawn to the lines and details of French-made bikes from the 1950s and ’60s, and he works in some of the style and design elements from that era into his frames.

“I’ve always had an affinity for older things,” he says.

He built himself a sharp-looking, single-speed mountain bike with a retro rigid fork, and delights in keeping up with riders on bikes tricked out with full suspension and other modern components.

Fitzgerald’s wife, Sandra, is a psychology professor at San Francisco State University. He’s a stay-at-home dad who builds bikes in between school drop-offs, pick-ups and baseball practice. For his sons Mateo, seven, and Eisen, 10, he built a “side-hack,” basically a bike with a sidecar. He gets plenty of smiles when the three of them roll around town.

Custom bikes can cost as much or less than a store-bought bike. If you’re particularly tall or short, having a bike built to your measurements makes for a much more comfortable ride. And if you want something you don’t see on the market, like a rando bike, a custom build can be the way to go. His frame and fork sets start at $1,275.

“You want something funky that’s within reason,” says Fitzgerald. “I’ll build it.”—Stett Holbrook

JENSIE GRAN FONDO OF MARIN

Jens Voigt may have retired from pro cycling, but he’s still riding hard on the heels behind Levi Leipheimer. This year, the German cyclist lends his nickname to the inaugural Jensie Gran Fondo of Marin on Oct. 10 (thejensiegranfondo.com), trailing Sonoma County’s popular Levi’s Gran Fondo by just one week.

“It’s going to be a great event,” says Jim Elias, executive director of the Marin County Bicycle Coalition (MCBC). “It brings in one of the most iconic cycling personalities of our era.”

Voigt, a resident of Germany who announced his retirement in 2014, loves to ride in Marin, according to Elias. “He’s also quite a personality and a lot of fun,” Elias adds.

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Voigt will ride the entire route with participants, and not just at the head of the pack.

“He’s not here to race; he’s here to be an ambassador, to share his wisdom and experience with all the riders,” says Scott Penzarella, a cofounder of the event and owner of Studio Velo in Mill Valley.

A portion of the funds raised by entry fees will benefit the MCBC for its bicycle education and advocacy programs, such as Safe Routes to Schools.

Part of the appeal for cycling fans is the opportunity to ride with the famously gregarious Voigt, who’s been called “the most fun guy in pro cycling.” Also known for his “attack” style of riding, Voigt placed second after Leipheimer in the 2007 Amgen Tour of California and triumphed in several stages of the Tour de France. Retiring in his “young 40s,” he stuck with it longer than most, says Elias.

Entry fees for the Jensie Gran Fondo, priced from $95 to $749, correspond to routes of increasing length, elevation, service and swag.

The 100-mile “Shut Up Legs” route ($195) gets its name from a signature Jensism, and takes riders up to Alpine Dam and around Mount Tamalpais.

The first such event for Marin County, the Jensie Gran Fondo kicks off at Stafford Lake Park in Novato and threads through the hills of West Marin. It’s not a race and it’s not only for hardcore competitors, although riders who finish before 5pm will be timed by electronic chip.

“Some people ride ambitiously,” Elias says, “but for most people, it’s a big cycling celebration.”

While CHP will offer support at major intersections, the mainly rural ride will not close down roads, and participants are encouraged to ride single file.

All routes lead to a gourmet service stop in Point Reyes Station with local food purveyors, and end at Stafford Lake Park for a festival with music and, of course, a local microbrew to shut up that thirst.—James Knight

USED BIKES, FRESH FUN

Bikes are expensive. Some can cost as much as a used car. But it doesn’t have to be that way. Everyone can own a bicycle. Used bike shops sell bicycles than can range from 50 days old to five decades old and cost a couple hundred dollars instead of a few thousand. The shops also offer repair services to restore old bikes, and some will teach you how to fix them yourself.

Santa Rosa’s Bicycle Czar
(201 Santa Rosa Ave., 707.528.8676) opened in 2007 and is the original used bike shop in Sonoma County, says owner Brooks Van Holt. His mission, he says, is “to bring order to the used bicycle world.” His business offers services and vintage parts rarely found anywhere else. The business is a resource for used parts and information on bikes of days
gone by.

“It’s fun not knowing what is going to come through the door,” says Van Holt. “That’s the exciting part. It could be something that was bought this year or last year, or something that has been hanging in a garage for 50 years that needs to be refurbished. We’ve got our technique down, and we know how to bring bikes back to life.”

Bird House Bicycles (birdhousecycles.com) owner Drew Merritt started his repair business after finding a used bike himself and discovering the market for them. His business is run on his parent’s west Sonoma County property in a red barn.
He crams in as many bikes as he can and gets them roadworthy.
He also offers classes on bike repair.

“I try to think of the average working man or woman who doesn’t need an $8,000 bike, who just needs a point-A-to-B bike,” says Merritt.

Frank Hinds, owner of Uncle’s Crusty’s Bike Shop (2076 Armory Drive, Santa Rosa; 707.292.4644), was originally a buyer or “picker” for Bicycle Czar and started his business after learning the trade. He’s interested in promoting cycling and helping customers who don’t want to spend $4,000 to get started.

“We provide a cost of bike and a cost of service that’s lower than other bike shops in town, so we have a different client base,” Hinds says.

All these businesses focus on recycling and returning bikes to the community, and each shop has bicycle gems awaiting discovery—and a ride.—Haley Bollinger.

Jun. 25-26: Large Laughs in Healdsburg

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Now in its third year, the Small Town Comedy Festival boasts 25 standup talents in an intimate venue, and this year’s fest is bigger than ever. It’s become a two-day affair that starts Thursday with pre-festival shows at several spots around Healdsburg, including Bergamot Alley and Thumbprint Cellars. The main event is at Sonoma Cider, featuring headliners like Rory Scovel, who recently starred on TBS’s Ground Floor, and local favorites like rising star Caitlin Gill. The Friday show is split into four sets, with food trucks, live music and libations. The Small Town Comedy Festival busts a gut on Thursday, June 25, at various locations, and Friday, June 26, at Sonoma Cider, 36-A Mill St., Healdsburg. 6pm. $25. 707.433.8212.

Wake and Bake

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A good scone should not be taken for granted. The humble British pastry that Americans love to call their own can make or break a breakfast, and no one knows it better than Veronica Eicken, the energetic force behind Sonoma Scone Company.

Eicken, 34, is a Sebastopol native with a degree from the California Culinary Academy in San Francisco. Ten years ago, after stints in San Francisco, Napa and Lake Tahoe, she realized there’s no place like home, and took an executive chef position at the Occidental Inn.

“That’s where I first started making scones,” Eicken says, “but no recipe I tried really worked, so I came up with my own. About eight years ago I finally nailed it.”

Many legendary scones and two daughters later, Eicken now runs a catering company, the Gift of Time. She’s also the special events chef for Lasseter Family Winery and, as of March 2015, runs the Sonoma Scone Company. Eicken wants anyone and everyone to be able to enjoy a good scone, no baking skills needed.

The premise is simple and ingenius. Sonoma Scone Company sells packages of one dozen fresh-frozen scones, which come with detailed heating instructions. They can be picked up from the commercial kitchen Eicken rents in Santa Rosa.

Shipping options are limited to Santa Rosa and Sebastopol—with good reason. According to Eicken—who uses local, seasonal produce and biodegradable and recyclable packaging—environmentally friendly shipping for fresh-frozen products is too costly. “But I’m trying to figure it out,” she says.

Eicken lets the season dictate how she flavors the scones. In the summer, there are unbelievably moist strawberry scones or blueberry with white chocolate; in the winter, it’s eggnog and pumpkin. Other options, such as salted chocolate swirl, orange cream currant and savory sweet corn with bacon and chive, are available all year. The basic, plain scone is appropriately called “Simply Sonoma.”

Since her company is California-based, there’s also the inevitable—and utterly delicious—gluten-free scone, made from a blend of rice flours that Eicken developed.

“People have been asking for the recipe for my scones, but I worked on it for so long, I won’t give it up,” Eicken says. “I finally decided to sell them. I just made the time for it, despite being so busy.”

Although she’s right on track with the trend toward more ready-made delivered foods, she believes her motivation is more traditional. “I just really want people to have a fresh, portable, available product, and to be able to experience a scone they way I loved it.”

In the world of cronuts and cruffins and nearby San Francisco looming large with curry scones and miso doughnuts, Eicken only makes food she loves to eat. “I’d try a curry scone, sure, but on daily basis? I want the classics,” she says.

And why, of all things, scones?

“When flour meets butter, I’m there!” Eicken says. “They’re so much more than the sum of their parts when done right. It’s the extraordinary meets the ordinary.”

Just add butter.

Jun. 26: Conspiracy Cabaret in Santa Rosa

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If you haven’t checked out the North Bay Cabaret monthly variety show, now is the chance to experience the insanity in all its glory. This month marks the event’s one-year anniversary, and for this installment organizer Jake Ward and company are going big, taking on the CIA and UFOs in this risque “Illuminaughty”-themed show. Burlesque from Eva D’Luscious, fire performances, belly dancing, spoken word, live painting; there’s nothing the cabaret won’t delve into. And the fabulous Wonder Dave from Oakland troupe Tourettes Without Regrets headlines again with a performance inspired by the occult. The North Bay Cabaret get (illumi-)naughty on Friday, June 26, at Whiskey Tip, 1910 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa. 7pm. $10 (21 and over). 707.843.5535.

Jun. 28: Vivaldi in Napa Valley

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Since taking over as the director of Symphony Napa Valley last autumn, celebrated violinist and conductor Michael Guttman has brought creative classical performances and top orchestral works back to the Napa Valley, and this week he and the symphony celebrate the conclusion of their current season with a spirited show titled “Viva Vivaldi!” Guttman takes pieces from the famed Italian baroque composer’s well-known Four Seasons violin concertos and breathes new life into them in his signature style. The Symphony Napa Valley presents “Viva Vivaldi!” on Sunday, June 28, at Lincoln Theater, 100 California Drive, Yountville. 3pm. $25-$55. 707.944.9900.

Jun. 29: Folds Goes There in Santa Rosa

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Songwriter Ben Folds first gained renown in the late ’90s as the frontman of the Ben Folds Five, his oddly named trio that took over the radio with their breakout single “Brick,” and produced platinum-selling records of piano-driven alternative rock. In this century, Folds has found new fame with his ever-evolving solo career, as well as his role on the a cappella competition TV show The Sing-Off. Now adding chamber pop to his repertoire, Folds makes his way to Santa Rosa for the first time when he performs solo on Monday, June 29, at the Wells Fargo Center for the Arts, 50 Mark West Springs Road, Santa Rosa. 8pm. $40-$55. 707.546.3600.

Home Grown

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Wouldn’t it be great if Google or Facebook moved to Sonoma County? Well, yes and no. It would certainly create a lot of jobs, but the impact on housing prices and traffic wouldn’t be great. Anyway, such a move isn’t likely to happen, and I say that’s just as well.

Folks move to or choose to remain in the North Bay because of the quality of life, open spaces and the slower pace. Silicon Valley’s crushing traffic, Gold Rush–style development and stratospherically high cost of housing are not things we aspire to. In fact, many bail on Silicon Valley and San Francisco for those reasons, present company included.

But we still need jobs and economic development. Increasingly, that’s coming from small-scale makers, farmers and artisans, not big corporations. Small and home-based businesses are part of the North Bay experience. Local purveyors are part of what gives the North Bay its look and feel. And while they don’t have the economic might of a Google, local businesses create local jobs, reduce reliance on carbon-intensive imports, keep dollars circulating locally and contribute to the North Bay’s identity.

Last year, Sonoma County’s GoLocal Cooperative, a network of local businesses, residents and nonprofits that support local, sustainably minded businesses, produced $5.6 million in sales through its rewards card program. That generated an estimated
$2 million for the North Bay’s economy.

Two years ago farmer Kelley Rajala and weaver Pam Dale founded a different local business group called North Bay Made. The membership-based group is helping to unify small North Bay businesses by acting as their sales and marketing team. With more than 50 makers and markets in its portfolio, the group is really a force of private-sector economic development. But instead of trying to attract new business to the North Bay, North Bay Made is cultivating homegrown makers in the North Bay and stoking the benefits of a homegrown economy.

“We’re just stacking up win-win scenarios,” says Rajala

We write about local purveyors every week in the Bohemian, but in this issue we’re highlighting several of our favorites. The good news is there’s more where that came from.—Stett Holbrook

CLUTCH MONKEY

There’s something very wrong about throwing your leg over a vintage motorcycle while wearing a pair of Dockers. It’s not only fashion suicide, it’s not smart. Riding a bike requires a heavy-duty pair of trousers built to withstand hot tailpipes, flying gravel and high-speed asphalt encounters.

Jeans are the pants of choice for most self-respecting bikers, but as Bodega vintage motorcycle enthusiast Marc Bencivenga discovered, there’s not a lot of high-quality, heavyweight denim on the market, especially when you’re 6-foot-3 and 260 pounds of badass biker. (Note to self: Make sure you spell “Bencivenga” correctly.)

“There wasn’t anything out there,” says co-founder Bencivenga. His wife, Jennifer Klein, is the other founder. “That was the inspiration for Clutch Monkey. There was an unmet need.”

Clutch Monkey makes burly, selvedge denim jeans and vests for bikers and those who appreciate bulletproof denim. Selvedge is heavy, stiff (at first) denim made on shuttle looms that fell out of favor when denim went mainstream in the 1950s. Newer projectile looms make more denim faster and cheaper, but it’s not as durable as selvedge. Selvedge is made in tightly woven strips of heavy fabric and finished with bands down each side that prevent fraying and unraveling.

Turns out there is only one mill in the United States that makes selvedge to Clutch Monkey’s standards: North Carolina’s Cone Mills. Clutch Monkey also sources its selvedge from Japanese mills that use retooled Draper and Toyota looms.

“The Japanese put out the best selvedge on the planet,” says Bencivenga.

Clutch Monkey jeans and vests are designed in Bodega and sewn in San Francisco’s last denim factory. (The factory is in such high demand that Bencivenga was asked not to divulge its name. Top-secret denim!)

As a revival product, selvedge is often expensive, but Clutch Monkey sells most of its goods via crowdfunding campaigns and so can offer it at near wholesale prices, because a production run only begins with cash from backers on hand. No marketing required, although Clutch Monkey leans heavily on Facebook and Instagram.

“All the marketing comes to us in real dollars,” says Bencivenga. “People pay for what they believe in.”

If you want to handle a pair of Clutch Monkey jeans or a vest for yourself, get on your bad motor scooter and ride to the newly
opened Soul Riders in Santa Rosa (404 Mendocino Ave., 707.978.3810), the company’s only retail outlet. Opened by former Brotherhood skate shop owner Kurt Hurley, Soul Riders specializes in Southern California beach-culture ware in the form of surf, skate, hot rod fashions and reissues of classic skateboard decks along with a bin of vintage vinyl in the rear. Hurley is excited to carry Clutch Monkey denim as the one nod to the North Bay.

“The jeans will outlive you,”
he says. clutchmonkey.com.
—Stett Holbrook

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dhbetty

Spokes, cogs, chain, fenders, rims, valves—for Christine Culver, owner of dhbetty Bicycle Gems, an artist creating jewelry from upcycled bicycle parts, “it’s all about the bicycles.”

Dhbetty Bicycle Gems was the first business to connect with North Bay Made. Culver, a longtime cyclist, found a passion for bicycles in her late teens when she started racing professionally. She moved up to Sonoma County to work at a bike shop and continue racing.

Culver’s bike love led her to a position as executive director of the Sonoma County Bicycle Coalition in Santa Rosa, where she served from 2003 to 2011. The group advocates for better bicycle access throughout Sonoma County.

“I had gotten involved as a volunteer, then got myself on the board and created a job for myself,” Culver says.

While Culver was running the bike organization, she began creating her jewelry. “The thing that really kicked off this whole ‘doing the jewelry with the bicycle focus’ is that I just wanted a pendant with a bicycle on it. Everything I was finding was really chintzy. It started as a quest looking for one, and then finally I started making them.”

Culver designs bracelets, earrings, glass pendants and necklaces, some made from upcycled bicycle parts, including gears, chains, tires and spokes. Bike shops and the Santa Rosa Cycling Club donate retired bicycle parts for their next
lives as jewelry. Culver sells her jewelry at bike-based events,
local retailers and Clif Family Winery in St. Helena. dhbetty.com. —Haley Bollinger

THE SHOP

It’s a hot and delightful Thursday in Olema, and there’s really no place to be except eased back on the sun-dappled porch of a new West Marin outpost of “uncommon mercantile” called, simply, the Shop.

Sit on the porch in a Jane Brooks–designed baseball hat that features the store logo—she’s a co-owner and designer here—as you sip cold-pressed iced coffee out of a milk bottle and watch a flow customers peruse the offerings.

Repurposed as a shop of local goods, vintage wares, “Northern California classics and practical provisions,” the joint is positively bustling today.

Score! A young man of obvious means emerges with a pair of vintage California license plates tucked under his arm. There’s a whole crate of them out back, if you take the time to look.

Take the time. It’s worth it.

The Shop began in Fairfax several years ago when a quartet of West Marin makers took over the former Good Earth parking garage.

“We did a pop-up mercantile that lasted two years,” says Brooks, where she, her partner Val Yandell, Liz Lavoie and Michele Schwartz made stuff, gathered stuff and sold stuff.

When the Good Earth building sold, the women scoped out the Olema property, which last housed an art gallery. It’s the original Olema post office and there’s an old-time print behind the cash register that shows the building as it was way-back-when.

Together, the four set out to curate a retail joint that would offer and emphasize a particularized aesthetic. The gist is utility with style, preferably repurposed, salvaged or otherwise gathered from the beach, the woods or some old barn somewhere. And, where possible, Brooks says they set out to keep the preciousness factor at a bare minimum. Preferably, none at all. This is, after all, rugged and wild—and quirky—West Marin.

One section of the shop features kids toys along with Schwartz’s exquisitely soft and luxe cashmere creations, hats, ponchos and scarves repurposed from previous couture incarnations.

Elsewhere, vintage hand tools share shelf space with soft hand-made Sun Dog T-shirts that depict old maps of Mt. Tamalpais and other iconic outposts. There are hand-printed greeting cards from Bolinas’ Sirima Sataman, jewelry from Fairfax’s Sarah Roberston, and T-shirts and bags with the shop logo, to go along with that baseball cap.

The quirky factor finds a voice of sorts in the shelves themselves. The post office survived the 1906 earthquake, but the wall-in shelves wound up on a permanent slant after the fact. Hey, it adds character.

“We don’t put marbles on those shelves,” says Brooks with a laugh. They do, however, offer 5 cent pieces of Double Bubble gum to the kids.

Another anchor product comes from Lavoie. The Store is peppered inside and out with simple stencil designs of surfers (and others) rendered on repurposed grape-drying trays; those go for $90 or so.

Visitors to the Shop are heartily encouraged to hang around until they’ve uncovered every choice niblet of functional nostalgia, utility and the handmade on display here.

Oh look, a box filled with old matchbooks! Jewelry fashioned from beach flotsam and jetsam, cool. Delicious fudge offered in an old fruit jar, yum. Handmade beaded jewelry and leather bracelets from Sister Sue—beautiful.

The well-curated, handmade stuff drives the aesthetic here, like the one-of-a-kind, functional mini sailboats from Inverness’ Ray Forbes that start at about $250.

“He’s an off-the-grid craftsman who makes the most delicate and refined pieces of sculpture—and that take a ton of time to make,” says Brooks.

“We love handmade, we love vintage, and we love new stuff,” she adds, “but mostly we just love community. We’re proud to be representing people who are making things.” 9960 Hwy. 1, Olema. theshop-olema.com.
—Tom Gogola

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WILDBRINE

Driving by the unassuming Windsor Business Park, it’s hard to believe it’s the home of local fermented magic. And yet this is where business partners Richard Goldberg and Chris Glab launched Wildbrine five years ago, the go-to spot for all things pungent, crispy and spicy.

Former San Francisco residents and now proud citizens of Windsor and Santa Rosa, Goldberg and Glab have been friends for more than 30 years.

“We met through friends, and since we both were triathlon athletes, we would run together and then meet and cook for friends,” says Goldberg. Goldberg brought the restaurant and cooking experience, Glab had the food marketing background, and the two soon left corporate life behind and launched a line of cheeses, hummus and salsas. After a five-year break following that business, they opened Wildbrine.

The Windsor operation employs 40 people, and Wildbrine is currently carried in eight Whole Foods divisions nationwide and every local gourmet grocer in Sonoma County. The modest plastic jars contain some of the most unique kimchi, pickles, sauerkrauts and fermented salsas an adventurous condiments lover can wish for. Kimchi flavors include Japanese (with miso and horseradish) and Thai (with lemongrass and basil), and the sauerkrauts are not too traditional either—arame ginger or Madras curry cauliflower, anyone?

“We use our imagination and look for current trends, stuff we like that go well together. We’re both foodies and do all product development ourselves,” says Goldberg.

Smoky kale and tamari Brussels sprouts, as well as candy-striped beets and beet greens are some of the ingredients soon to make their way into Wildbrine products, and the latest innovation—fermented salsas with everything from cabbage to carrots—already has a devout following.

“I love our products as a side dish, or incorporating sauerkraut into salad dressings—I purée it!” says Goldberg. How very wild. wildbrine.com.—Flora Tsapovsky

NBC POTTERY

Settled in the mountains above St. Helena in the small town of Angwin, husband-and-wife duo Will and Nikki Callnan create intimately crafted clay works that are redefining everything from plates and vases to sculpture. Under the name NBC Pottery (named after Nikki Ballere Callnan), the pair specialize in custom-made wares designed for private customers as well as restaurants and wineries.

“We’ve been in clay and creating as long as we can remember,” says Will Callnan.

The two met while studying fine arts at Sierra Nevada College in Lake Tahoe. Originally from the East Coast, Will says they decided to stay and work in California because of the rugged beauty of the area, something that’s reflected in their work.

If you’ve ever dined in the Restaurant at Meadowood in St. Helena, you’ve eaten off their plates. Often resembling organic materials such as bark or mushrooms, the pieces highlight chef Christopher Kostow’s cuisine.

“They were looking for something different,” says Will Callnan. “With each piece, we want to show the qualities of the material.”

The flexible qualities of the clay are also on display in the way their vessels, vases and bottles mimic the fluid movements of waterfalls and birds taking flight. With a world of influence right outside their home studio, Will, Nikki, their young son Gavin, and newest addition Evie, are happy to host guests for a studio visit. Their custom wares are available for order or commission online, or directly from the studio. 707.965.1007. www.nbcpottery.com.
—Charlie Swanson

Letters to the Editor: June 24, 2015

S.C., NRA & GOP

The Confederate flag did not murder the Charleston, S.C., church folk. The NRA and Republican Party have the blood of this massacre and what will be the next one on their hands.

So can we please stop the futile and diversionary discussions of the “motivation” of the racist redneck in South Carolina, and historical analysis and further hysteria about the Stars and Bars flying on the S.C. Capitol grounds?

This ain’t the story, folks.

The blame is on the National Rifle Association and the Republican Party, who insist that anyone can have a gun. Including this guy. And the last one. And the next one.

Obama has been his normal courteous self, calmly and sadly mourning the latest victims of the NRA and its pathetic puppet, the Republican Party. Weak. The Dems and Obama should call it like it is: the NRA and Republicans are the cause of this (near weekly) massacre. No one has screamed at the top of his lungs, “Stop this insanity!” to demand absolute gun control and registration. Now!

Australia had its lunatic massacre and said, “Enough, we are a civilized society,” and they pretty much overnight eliminated guns in the country. Guess what? Murders dropped to practically nothing.

The Republicans, whose main platform is no gun control, are lubricated by the NRA. Let’s place the blame on how easily and legally the S.C. nutso hillbilly got his gun, and ask is this the society we want? Most would say no. Is it the society the Republicans and NRA want? Yes.

The media is screeching about the latest tragedy without stating the cause because they are so frightened of telling the truth, which is that we are the only “civilized” country that allows a nut-job political party to allow and encourage these predictable deaths for the profits of gun manufacturers. Nothing is sacred to these profit-seeking maniacs, neither churchgoers nor children, and it will happen again. We permit it by voting for any Republican.

We are programmed by the media, editorials, blogs and social media, and the government to wet our pants in fear over “terrorism,” spending our resources on the war machine and not our own education, environment, schools, bridges and infrastructure.

Guess how many “terrorist” deaths have occurred in the U.S. in the last 30 years? Did you guess about 3,800? Yes, under 4,000, including 9-11 and Oklahoma City. Imagine that this figure represents the thickness of a penny on a table.

Now, let’s get back to gun deaths. How many people in the same time period in the U.S. were killed by guns? If a penny’s thickness represents all terrorism deaths in the U.S. for approximately 30 years, then figure out how high the pennies would be stacked to represent U.S. gun deaths during the same time. A foot, three feet high? Maybe 10 feet high? Twenty, 50, 100 feet? No. One-third of a mile is the correct answer.

Thank you for killing us NRA and Republicans. You are more lethal than ISIS, al Qaida and all the other “terrorists.” You, NRA and GOP, are the real terrorists, and the blood of these church murders is on your hands.

Santa Rosa

Write to us at le*****@******an.com.

Mountain High

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The buzzards are circling at CADE. That’s no figure of speech, they’re nearly in our reach, on this perch on Howell Mountain so high—we’re sharing the sky as we sit on the terrace while a nice young lady pours us wine.

But my colleague is starting to fade. She had too much to sip on the last stop on our trip, and now her glass has crashed in the gravel. At first I thought the view had stirred her. Over a fountain—seems to flow off the edge of the mountain—we can see Napa Valley all the way past that sign—who said, “And the wine is bottled doggerel”?

Have I mentioned the view from CADE? It really is fantastic, and it’s yours, by reservation—with plastic—for a nonrefundable fee. That’s all I can tell you about CADE. Of CADE nothing more is required. The answers I got, when I inquired, were about what you can get for free.

So I still have so many questions about CADE, as they say. Is it an acronym or something; are they just “shouting?” No—like its sister, Plumpjack, founded by the same pack, it’s all to do with Shakespeare and wine. Guess what I learned on the internet today.

For years I’d looked forward to CADE. I’d expected a tour, that was the lure, but it’s nobody’s fault, sometimes winetasting gives you lemons. Here is my lemonade.

Speaking of which, let’s move on to refreshments. Fruity as a Kiwi SB, spicy as a Talisker, the CADE 2014 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($30) is a bit raw but surely no plonk; I prefer the lime blossom aroma and lively acidity of the 2014 Estate Sauvignon Blanc ($48)—though that’s double the coin I’d shell out for a Blanc.

The CADE 2012 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($360, two-pack) has got plush, plum fruit going for it—and at first, the “melted” sort of tannins too—but it might take some time for the bitter finish to release its grip. Fortunately, the reserve Cab comes in a box of two: one to brave now, and the other to sample when it’s softened—long before, we hope, you’re old and alone and afraid.

A few weeks later I was chatting with a stranger who told me what a mistake I’d made. “So-so,” I said, to which she counseled, “No, no—you must ask for the tour at CADE!”

360 Howell Mountain Road S., Angwin. Tasting by appointment only, on the hour, 10am–3pm. Tasting fee, $40; tour, $70. 707.965.2746.

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Letters to the Editor: June 24, 2015

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Mountain High

The buzzards are circling at CADE. That's no figure of speech, they're nearly in our reach, on this perch on Howell Mountain so high—we're sharing the sky as we sit on the terrace while a nice young lady pours us wine. But my colleague is starting to fade. She had too much to sip on the last stop on our...
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