Omnivorous

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One issue poised to dominate 2017 is the place of meat in the modern human diet. The issue strikes at the core of our omnivorous nature, while tugging at our heart strings and challenging our intellects.

The more I learn about the impact the meat industry has on world hunger, our changing climate and other facets of our environment, the more foolhardy and selfish eating animal products appears to be—unless, perhaps, you’re raising or hunting your own, or purchasing from a livestock operation that’s sensitive to its environmental footprint.

By contrast, consumer interest in the quality of life experienced by the animals that provide us their meat, organs and secretions has spiked. The likes of Walmart and McDonald’s are happy to oblige, having pledged to phase out their use of chicken eggs that were laid in a cage. Whether the chickens are truly any better off is an open question.

Not coincidentally, 2016 was the year that the veggie burger came into its own, largely on the back of the Impossible Foods burger. This plant-based, umami-rich patty sizzles and browns in the pan, and sheds plant-based red “blood” with each bite you take. Even the least apologetic of meat eaters surveyed have admitted to respecting the Impossible burger, fortified with wheat and potato protein and lubed with coconut oil.

The fake-animal-product space has also exploded with the likes of vegan cheese alternatives made from cultured nuts, pink-hued fake shrimp and crab meat, nut- and grain-based “milk” products like almond milk and soy milk, egg-free “mayo” and every kind of vegan substitute for eggs, chicken and most every other piece of flesh or fluid you can imagine.

It’s not just vegans who are into this stuff. Locavores, climatarians, ovo-lacto-paleo-bacon-vores and good old-fashioned omnivores are finding their way to animal-product-free alternatives for entirely different reasons.

Me, I eat meat. Mostly wild game, for which I feel zero guilt, assuming the hunt goes well. While I don’t avoid animal products as a rule, I do limit my intake of milk products. I know it isn’t cool to admit it, but I like soy milk. I like milk, too. And heavy cream. And cheese, though I long ago settled on mayonnaise as my go-to cheese alternative.

The various animal-product industries have not been pleased with these developments, and pushed back big-time in 2016. Unilever, owner of the Hellmanns and Best Foods brands of mayo, took vegan-food processor Hampton Creek to court for using the word “mayo” on the label of its egg-free mayonnaise substitute, Just Mayo. The National Dairy Council attempted, and failed, to make it illegal to use the word “milk” to describe nut- and grain-based milk substitutes like soy or almond milk.

In 2016, public understanding and perceptions of fat continued to be turned inside out, especially saturated fat, which has long been assumed to be the culprit behind obesity and related ailments, like heart disease. Once practically unassailable, this position is now being openly questioned, as expert opinion is shifting to the camp that regards sugar as the primary dietary culprit behind obesity.

“Saturated fat” is a fancy way of saying “animal fat,” but with one big exception: a pair of oils, coconut and palm, derived from closely related tree species. Saturated fats are increasingly understood to benefit brain health, as well as other crucial body functions. The relative merits of unsaturated fats, meanwhile—especially those found in grain-based oils like canola, safflower, sunflower and soy—seem to worsen the more we learn about omega-6 fatty acids, in which the grain-based oils are high.

And it isn’t clear that all meat is bad for the environment, either. A vocal minority of ranchers are making the ecology-based case that certain landscapes can benefit from properly managed herds of certain ungulates. In the absence of buffalo and other native grazers, many ecosystems could spin out of control without tasty creatures like cows to fill that vital niche.

Rotational grazing, if done correctly, can result in healthier ecosystems and carbon sequestration, proponents claim. It’s a compelling vision, but even if it’s true, the cattle-carrying capacity of the landscape is much less under rotational grazing than under traditional feedlots. If the world were to make a dramatic switch to rotational grazing, it would mean a lot less meat to go around.

This could be the year of the fight over the legal definition of the word “burger.” It will be a year of glory and evolution for imperfect produce, and in celebrating the innate beauty of plant parts. But amid the angst, celebration and exploration of a plant-based diet, don’t be surprised if meat makes a little comeback too. The relative places of meat and plants in an omnivorous animal in a modern context will continue to be a fluid, evolving situation in 2017.

Paper Trails

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The Press Democrat is being sued for defamation by prominent Santa Rosa real estate developer William Gallaher and his son-in-law Scott Flater.

The Dec. 21 complaint, filed in Sonoma County Superior Court by Santa Rosa attorney Michael Miller, stems from a series of six articles that ran in the Press Democrat late last year which raised questions about donations made on behalf of a trio of Santa Rosa City Council candidates running for office in 2016. Two of the three candidates won their races.

The donations were independent expenditures, the paper reported, made possible through the Citizens United Supreme Court ruling that allows for campaign spending beyond a Santa Rosa rule that limits individual contributions to candidates to $500.

The gist of the series of stories was that Gallaher is suspected to have funneled campaign cash—totaling about $195,000—to preferred candidates through his son-in-law, Flater, and an independent expenditure campaign created by Flater.

The paper reported that Flater is married to Molly Flater, who is CEO of Oakmont Senior Living, which operates the sprawling Oakmont Village retirement community in Santa Rosa developed by her father.

The first in the series of stories by Kevin McCallum ran on Oct. 20 during the height of a fevered campaign season that saw record amounts of cash flow into the Santa Rosa city council races. McCallum reported that “Scott Flater, the son-in-law of politically active developer Bill Gallaher, recently reported spending nearly $40,000 to help support two other candidates—Jack Tibbetts and Ernesto Olivares. While he didn’t give the money directly to either candidate, the contributions raise questions about whether Flater or people close to him are exploiting gaps between state and city campaign finance laws that limit campaign contributions to $500 each but allow ‘major donors,’ such as Flater, to spend unlimited funds.”

The paper published another five stories about Flater and campaign contributions, capping off the series with a “what is to be done” story on Nov. 20 that surveyed local elected officials on their thoughts on the unlimited donations and how to address them in future elections—using the Flater-Gallaher storyline as the jump-off.

The defamation complaint names the Press Democrat, the corporate owners Sonoma Media Investments, reporter Kevin McCallum and Sonoma State University political scientist David McCuan as defendants (along with 20 unidentified John Does). The complaint seeks unspecified monetary damages and charges the paper with defamation, libel per se and portraying its clients in a false light.

The complaint followed a letter sent to McCallum and Press Democrat executive editor Catherine Barnett by Miller on Nov. 21 that demanded the paper retract six stories that he alleged contained defamatory comments against Gallaher and Flater. When the paper didn’t retract the stories, they sued.

The complaint highlighted a Nov. 5 article that reported, “Mr. Flater’s spending spree . . . has telltale signs of someone who has agreed to act as a front man for other donors, allowing them to shield their political contributions and potential economic interests in the race from public view.”

McCuan was included in the complaint, and he was also sent a letter from Miller, partner at the Santa Rosa firm of Perry, Johnson, Anderson, Miller & Moskowitz, for quotes he provided to the Press Democrat that furthered a running theme that Gallaher was likely the hidden hand behind the contributions. An Oct. 28 story highlighted ongoing donations from Flater, as it noted Gallaher’s work as a developer in Santa Rosa as “one of the city’s most successful developers.”

According to media reports and documents on file with the city of Santa Rosa, Gallaher is involved in a years-long negotiation with the city to build the “Elnoka” project on land adjacent to Oakmont Village. As it laid out its reporting on the Flater contributions, the Press Democrat reported that a proposed project comprising 447 units had already been rejected by the city. The latest updated Elnoka proposal, as first reported in the Kenwood Press, was submitted to the city last October and nearly doubles the proposed units to a 778-unit retirement community.

The Press Democrat noted that Gallaher, his wife, daughter and son-in-law all contributed the Santa Rosa legal limit of $500 to Tibbetts.

Tibbetts told the Press Democrat on Oct. 28 that he had never met Flater and believed that the donations were “part of a bundle” of contributions to other city council candidates. He told the paper the $62,675 Flater had by then spent on mailers and canvassing for him was “a disgusting amount of money to come into a local race,” even as he accepted the support.

Teeing off on the Tibbetts “bundling” assertion, McCuan told the Press Democrat in that same Oct. 28 report that the alleged bundling was part of “a pattern Gallaher has of ‘sprinkling money around’ to family members to maximize payments to—and potentially influence with—council candidates.”

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McCuan went on to say that “Bill Gallaher uses his family as a shell game, and has for a long time in order to channel support to candidates of his liking. . . . It sounds to me what they have done is against the letter and intent of the law.”

The defamation suit denies the premise of the Press Democrat series and McCuan’s assertion of illegality.

In his letter to the newspaper (a version was also sent to McCuan), Miller wrote, “The political contributions from Mr. Flater were made on his own and did not originate from Bill Gallaher. Neither Mr. Flater nor Mr. Gallaher violated state campaign finance rules. Mr. Gallaher has never used anyone, including family members, to make political contributions on his behalf.” That language is more or less repeated in the defamation lawsuit that was filed after the paper declined to retract the articles and remove them from the paper’s website.

The suit may have sprung from a potential journalistic danger zone that exists somewhere between two underlying conceits that appeared to drive the series of stories, beyond the basic follow-the-money backdrop: The first is, “That just doesn’t look right.” The second is, “Well, we wouldn’t put it past him.”

On the former point, the Press Democrat reported that the son-in-law of a successful local developer (who has ongoing business before the city council), after showing little apparent interest in local politics in previous elections, suddenly decided to start sending outsized sums of cash to three candidates’ campaigns—while identifying himself in disclosure reports only as a “homemaker.” Meanwhile, Gallaher is looking for a green light on an ever-expanding Elnoka project years in the making. No doubt, that just doesn’t look right.

But in raising the question about Gallaher’s “suspicious” role in the alleged laundering and bundling of independent expenditures, the paper never answered it. Neither Gallaher nor Flater responded to McCallum’s attempts to get them on the record about the contributions, a point highlighted in an email statement sent to the Bohemian by San Francisco attorney Thomas Burke of the media-law practice of Davis White Tremaine, which is representing the Press Democrat (the firm has defended affiliates of the Bohemian in past litigation).

“The Press Democrat is being sued for fairly and accurately reporting on the source of 195K in political contributions to the City Council election,” Burke says. “As a part of its reporting, the newspaper made repeated efforts to interview Mr. Flater and Mr. Gallaher about the source of the contributions, but they repeatedly refused to comment. The Press Democrat will vigorously defend its reporting on this matter of significant public interest.”

On Nov. 5, the paper reported that Chris Grabill, a local contractor, took matters in hand and reported Flater to the Fair Political Practices Commission (FPPC), a state watchdog agency. In its report on the filing of the Grabill complaint, the Press Democrat noted that Gallaher had been cleared of similar laundering-and-bundling charges in 2015 by the commission.

In that same story, McCuan also took a shot at the watchdog and said whatever they discovered wouldn’t come out until after the election, when it didn’t matter anymore, as he described the organization as “toothless and feckless.”

Spokesman for the FPPC Jay Wierenga cited the ongoing investigation and couldn’t answer any questions about it.

“Investigations, although not trying to sound trite, take the time they take,” he wrote in an email. “It all depends on each case. Generally speaking, about two-thirds of all cases are concluded in 180 days and about 90 percent are concluded within a year.”

McCuan says via email that he can’t talk about the case on advice of counsel. The Sonoma State University public-affairs office was sent a set of questions, which included whether the university was paying for his lawyer.

“Dr. David McCuan is an esteemed member of our faculty and is valued for his breadth of contributions in the North Bay and beyond,” responded SSU spokesman Nicolas Grizzle in an email. “The University does not customarily comment on litigation. We can say on a broader level that Sonoma State safeguards the academic freedom of its faculty, including the extramural speech and opinions that our faculty members express as citizens.”

Miller says neither he nor his clients wished to comment.

“[N]either my clients nor I wish to in any way litigate this matter through the press,” he wrote via email.

The parties will head to Superior Court April 25 for a case-management conference with Judge Nancy Case Shaffer in courtroom 16 at 3pm.

(This story has been updated to include the disclosure that the firm representing the Press Democrat has represented affiliates of the Bohemian in past litigation.)

Clean Slate

With the passage of Proposition 64, Californians took a major step toward ending the war on drugs and repairing some of the damage inflicted on people’s lives by marijuana prohibition.

Although the most serious marijuana-related crimes, such as providing it to minors or attempting to smuggle pot across state lines, remain felonies under Proposition 64, most marijuana-related misdemeanors and felonies have been reduced or altogether eliminated. These sweeping reductions in criminal penalties are retroactive, meaning past convictions for marijuana offenses reduced or eliminated under Proposition 64 can be reclassified on criminal records through the courts for free.

The Drug Policy Alliance is working at all levels to ensure that as many people as possible obtain relief under Proposition 64. To that end, we have developed a new website, Myprop64.org, to serve as the hub for information on implementation of the law. Visitors can find specific steps to reclassify marijuana-related convictions, as well as links to the appropriate reclassification forms, free legal clinics and contact information for local courts and public defenders’ offices.

Individuals with prior marijuana convictions on their record, who are no longer in the criminal justice system, can apply to the court where they were convicted to have an offense reclassified as a misdemeanor, infraction or have it dismissed, no matter how old the conviction.

In general, the process for reclassification will not involve a hearing, but you should work with a legal clinic, lawyer or public defender to assist with the process.

After submitting your forms, the court may proceed without a hearing. In most counties, you will be notified by mail once the superior court has ordered and then recorded the reclassification. Some counties may require that you return to court to learn the status of your application. However, if there is a dispute and your application is denied, you will be entitled to a hearing.

Proposition 64 is a step toward undoing damage caused by the draconian and punitive policies born out of the war on drugs. By reducing and removing the criminal penalties for marijuana offenses, we are simultaneously reducing the barriers to employment and housing.

Moreover, we are creating opportunities for second chances by investing hundreds of millions of dollars of marijuana tax and licensing revenue into low-income communities that have been most negatively affected by the war on drugs.

Eunisses Hernandez is a policy associate at the Drug Policy Alliance. Cat Packer is a policy coordinator at the Drug Policy Alliance.

Sub Rosa

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Is it too much to say that I found the guys at Hobo Wine Company down by the railroad tracks? Not really, because that’s exactly where I found them, doing some of the daily tasks of making wine on a gray and rainy January day in Roseland.

The last time we caught up with them was back in 2008 when winemaker Kenny Likitprakong opened shop in Downtown Wines, a Healdsburg tasting room that offered his Hobo, Banyan and Folk Machine labels in a hip setting to the soundtrack of vinyl records. Since then, they closed the tasting room, shut down the wine club and retreated to an unmarked warehouse down by the railroad tracks in south Santa Rosa.

What went wrong? Nothing at all—that’s the paradox of Hobo, which appears to be going gangbusters, adding tens of thousands of cases of production, several new labels and garnering multiple plaudits from the New York Times in the same year—all while eschewing the direct-to-consumer, hyperactively social-media model that marketing sirens warn is the only way to go in today’s wine market.

“I’ve never had a Facebook account,” admits Likitprakong, who grew up in Healdsburg and Santa Rosa, and even today looks like he just hopped off a skateboard in the 1990s. The intense self-promotion just didn’t suit the easygoing vintner.

True, Likitprakong’s wife does run a winery Facebook account, and Kenny dabbles in Instagram. But the business model is as decidedly traditional, selling via distributers to restaurants and retailers, as the style of the wines—not traditional to the 2000s, “but of the ’70s and ’80s,” Likitprakong says, humbly qualifying, “not that I’ve had a lot of wines from the ’70s and ’80s.”

The already reasonable price of Folk Machine 2015 Antle Vineyard Pinot Noir ($30) has to be put in perspective of provenance; it’s from a parceled-off piece of the original Chalone vineyard, all Pommard clone, a new and bright, vaguely hay bale–scented sipper that’s got glory days ahead of it.

The Folk Machine 2015 White Light ($15) is a creamy but dry, fruit cocktail–flavored blend of mostly out-of-favor white grape varieties, while the Camp 2015 Sonoma County Merlot ($18) is a fifty-fifty blend of organically and biodynamically farmed grapes that, because of the winery’s very minimal use of new cooperage, delivers the fruity, puckery charm of the grape without making a big show of toasted oak.

Hobo Wine Company is open for tastings by appointment. Find the wines at Peter Lowell’s and Handline restaurants, Big John’s Market, Bottle Barn and soon Oliver’s Market. 707.887.0833.

Boutique Boom

Sonoma County is famous for its great wine, natural scenery and low-key vibe, a contrast to the denser, glitzier wine country tourist attractions in Napa Valley. One other contrast to Napa: there aren’t as many boutique hotels to match the region’s growing reputation as a wine country destination.

While Sonoma County has plush hotels, they are few and far between. But that looks like it’s about to change.

Last year there were several hotel openings and more are coming this year in the boutique niche characterized by the hotel’s small size, attention to detail, elevated approach to hospitality and, yes, high prices.

According to Sonoma County Tourism, the county’s hotel assessment-funded tourist bureau, there are 34 new hospitality developments in the works. While some are big-name projects from the likes of Holiday Inn and Marriott, the majority, from Healdsburg to Sonoma, are smaller, independent projects with a hundred rooms or less.

According to Tim Zahner, Sonoma County Tourism’s chief marketing officer, the average hotel occupancy in the county was almost 78 percent in 2016, “meaning 8 out of 10 hotels rooms were occupied every month.” Investors see those numbers as an opportunity to step into the lodging market, says Zahner.

“I’ve been definitely getting more calls this year, from private entrepreneurs as well as ’boutique’ arms of established hotel chains,” he says.

Last year, tourism spending reached $1.82 billion, a significant increase from 2015.

“As more and more people discover Sonoma County, the need for unique lodging has been on the rise,” says Liza Hinman, chef and co-owner of the popular Spinster Sisters restaurant in Santa Rosa.

Her solution? A plan to open the Spinster Inn above the restaurant later this year. The inn will include nine rooms, as well as a pantry selling foods prepared by the Spinster Sisters kitchen. Hinman says it’s time to offer a chic alternative to Santa Rosa’s booming Airbnb market.

“Our inn is looking to provide a new option for a traveler who wants to stay somewhere a little different,” she says. “We feel like an inn is a natural extension of the hospitality business and will bring another dynamic to our neighborhood.”

Combining a restaurant with a boutique hotel is a national trend and has already proven to be successful in the case of another Sonoma County newcomer, SingleThread Restaurant & Inn. Five rooms sit atop the Michelin-stars-bound, Japanese-inspired restaurant. Rooms include rarefied snacks and sweets from the kitchen, premium beverages as well as a range of breakfasts: Japanese, Persian or a vegetable frittata made with produce grown at the restaurant’s nearby farm. All that pampering doesn’t come cheap. Rooms start at $800 a night.

Other projects in the works will stand alone as hotels. Michael Marino, the owner of California Wine Tours, is opening the Hawker House on a historic site on West Napa Street in Sonoma. In Healdsburg, the Piazza Group is constructing its H3 Guesthouse. The hospitality company, which owns the Hotel Healdsburg and H2, is also developing the Hotel Sebastopol on the site of what was a tractor-supply business on the town’s plaza, a sign of the times if there ever was one. The hotel received final design approval from the city this month.

“Following 2008, it was very difficult to get hospitality financing,” says Circe Sher, a partner at Piazza Hospitality. “A lot of projects were stalled or never started due to lack of available financing. With the improvement of the economy, more financing has become available, and many projects have restarted or gotten underway.”

Sher hopes its Guesthouse project will appeal to “younger, tech-friendly, eco-conscious, do-it-yourselfer types,” while in Sebastopol the aim is to “attract visitors interested in eco-tourism and agri-tourism, who will be taking advantage of Sebastopol’s unique location nearby many natural attractions, the great food and wine and healing community here.”

Meanwhile, several hotels have attempted to redefine themselves with remodels to appeal to the growing tide of tourists. Up Highway 1 north of Jenner, the venerable Timber Cove Resort underwent a top-to-bottom renovation last year in an effort to freshen up its look and appeal to a new generation with a minimalist, Scandinavian-inspired redesign. From the portable turntables and vintage vinyl in each room to the hand-embroidered pillows with uplifting messages, the vibe is certainly more millennial-friendly.

Last spring, the Hotel Petaluma’s courtyard and lobby underwent a major overhaul. The lobby is now connected to a winetasting room hosted by Barber Cellars and will soon include a bar operated by the newly opened Shuckery restaurant nearby.

“With the new owners stepping in in 2016, we’re really aiming to bring the hotel up to the standard of what travelers expect,” says Dustin Groff, the hotel’s general manager.

Those travelers—the “younger generation and the social-media-savvy”—says Groff, are “interested in a unique experience of a modern yet historic hotel.”

Of course, the growth of pricey new hotels raises the specter of rising housing prices, which are already out of reach for many residents.

“There’s definitely a community discussion now about the ways tourism affects people’s lives in the county,” says Zahner. “Personally, I believe that, aside from the financial benefits, tourism also brings cultural and other assets that might not be originally cultivated by the community, and enriches it. I’m sure the positives will outweigh the negatives.”

Let us sleep on it.

Magical Folk

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There must be something in the waters of West Marin, for it seems lately a new wave of up-and-coming indie rock artists are arriving and returning to their folk roots among the region’s rolling hills and foggy coastline.

The latest transplant is Brooklyn singer-songwriter Luke Temple, who relocated to Pt. Reyes Station last year, and recently unveiled a stunning and eloquent folk album,

A Hand Through the Cellar Door.

Temple performs from the new album on Jan. 21 at ink.paper.plate in Point Reyes Station.

Born in Massachusetts, Temple lived in Seattle briefly before moving to Brooklyn 10 years ago. He already had two critically acclaimed folk albums under his belt when he switched gears in 2009 and formed indie pop band Here We Go Magic.

Temple’s rhythmic tunes and often stream-of-consciousness lyrics were a key feature in Here We Go Magic, and the band’s sound had crowds on their feet at festivals around the world. In the last few years, Here We Go Magic underwent some lineup changes, and while the band still performs occasionally, Temple’s main focus these days is his solo career.

Released last November, Cellar Door, finds Temple in full storyteller mode, crafting eight acoustic songs that explore family struggles. His hypnotic rhythms come through on tracks like opener “Estimated World,” on which a guitar riff and minimalist backing drums, bass and organ slowly build. That unfolding sound appears again in the cathartic “Maryanne Was Quiet.”

Other tracks, such as “The Birds of Late December,” feature Temple’s lilting voice taking on delicate falsettos and hushed tones that remind one of a blend between Nick Drake and Paul Simon. Elsewhere, Temple commands the listener’s attention with off-kilter elements, such as the cellos and almost spoken-word delivery of “The Complicated Men of the 1940s.” Cellar Door isn’t background music; it’s a powerful amalgam of social lessons wrapped in personal stories.

Temple’s performance this weekend will also feature two other rising folk stars: MAITA, from Portland, Ore., whose debut EP Waterbearer comes out soon, and Petaluma’s own Ismay, a country-western singer who appeared at last year’s Hardly Strictly Bluegrass Festival in San Francisco.

White Wedding

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I’ve seen enough overheated reviews of blockbuster Cabernets that end with the food pairing wisdom that goes something like this: “And it has the tannins to stand up to a thick, juicy steak.”

I’ve heard that some Mosel winemakers like their filet with Riesling, actually. And why not Chardonnay? With the contrarian hunch that food-pairing success might depend as much on the sauce, and the wine, as the cut of the main course, I matched up a New York steak—salt and pepper, nothing fancy; two minutes each side, eight in the oven—with creamy béarnaise sauce, a red wine and gravy sauce, and some wines I had on hand.

Charles Krug 2015 Carneros Napa Valley Chardonnay ($21) Nothing musty about this cool, fresh-smelling Chardonnay—oak ice cream à la mode with sliced pear marinated in Meyer lemon juice—which is made by the granddaddy of Napa Valley wineries. Nothing “buttery” about it, either, until splashed in the wake of a morsel of unsauced steak, when streamers of caramelized pineapple and butterscotch candy light up the palate, playing off the salt and pepper of the rub. Béarnaise sauce sharpens the acidity nicely, while the wine-gravy concoction veers in a harsh, metallic direction. I might tire of sipping this rich but persistently woody wine by itself, but it seems custom-tailored for the béarnaise and steak pairing.

Hess Collection 2014 Napa Valley Chardonnay ($22) Another reasonably priced bottle from Napa Valley grapes, the slightly leesy
(a yeast-derived aroma; sort of dairy, sort of dusty) and baked-apple-scented wine dances with roasted vegetables, and darn near turns into spicy Gewürztraminer with the béarnaise sauce—neutral Pinot Grigio with the wine sauce. More supple than the Krug, it passes the test as well.

Baldacci 2014 Sorelle Carneros Napa Valley Chardonnay ($38) What I was looking for: the smell of the county fair, buttered popcorn and caramel candy apples, the flavor of oak-roasted butterscotch cookie. Nice wine, but the cream sauce actually mutes the sweet caramel of the wine, ending up no better a pairing than the zippier Krug.

Beringer 2013 Private Reserve Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($170) A top cuvée from another Napa icon, the inky purple PR smells like an oak-black currant chimera in full bloom, raining blackberry pomace-infused graham cracker crumbs over a bed of soft velvet. Béarnaise sauce sweetens the first sip, before tongue-numbing tannins glom on and don’t let go. What a wine, but what a fail—for now. Put it back in the cellar. What coffee-encrusted, scorched, spit-roasted steak could stand up to this?

Buds & Budgets

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Gov. Jerry Brown released his
$180 billion fiscal 2017 budget
last week and identified a $1.6 billion deficit, the result, he said, of slower than anticipated growth in the California economy.

The deficit’s return—the first since 2012—comes in the aftermath of the state’s historic yes vote on Proposition 64, which legalizes adult use of recreational cannabis in the state.

State agencies that have studied the initiative, including the Board of Equalization, have reported that future excise taxes could funnel between $1 billion and $1.4 billion annually into the state coffers. But before you say “tax bonanza,” it’s important to underscore that the pot tax can’t be used to close a budget gap in this or any year, unless the Legislature revisits the issue.

“The state government would certainly like to do that,” says Hezekiah Allen of the California Growers Association, a cannabis industry group. But they are hampered by the legally binding language in Proposition 64, which says that no taxes collected on cannabis sales can be directed into the state’s general fund. Moving forward, “the real limiting factor here is going to be, how much wiggle room does the Legislature have?” Allen says.

Even if Brown could close the deficit with pot revenue, the state won’t have its new cannabis tax regime in place until next January, when licensed growers will pay a cultivation tax of $9.25 per ounce of buds and $2.75 per ounce of leaves. Another
15 percent sales tax will be applied to the retail price of all cannabis products, and localities, including Sonoma County, are cooking up local taxes of their own. There’s a special pot tax vote in Sonoma County in March.

One problem for localities with enforcement issues of their own to fund, says Allen, is that Proposition 64 set a higher rate of tax than was even contemplated by the Legislature, which will make it difficult for localities to add an additional levy. “There is no room for additional taxes,” Allen says.

Those taxes are mainly earmarked for law enforcement and anti-drug efforts in schools. According to a statement from Brown, state pot taxes can be used for “regulatory costs, youth substance-use programs, environmental clean-up resulting from illegal cannabis growing, programs to reduce driving under the influence of cannabis and other drugs and to reduce negative impacts on public health or safety resulting from the legalization of recreational cannabis.”

In the short term, the emergent recreational cannabis industry may actually wind up contributing to a future deficit, as Brown’s budget would send $53 million to regulators to help square up the regulatory regime in the recreational and medical cannabis industries.

“Right now, there’s going to be a lot of pain before there is any gain,” says attorney Aaron Herzberg, a partner at CalCann, a California medical cannabis real estate investment firm. But Allen says the $53 million proposal “is an open question.” He notes that policymakers and the industry “are thinking that we should maybe move a little slower and take an incremental, balanced approach.”

The state envisions a single regulatory framework for recreational and medical cannabis. Nate Bradley of the California Cannabis Industry Association says his organization was in a conference call with the governor’s office last week and that “they are pushing ahead with one system.” He says stakeholders such as the CGA don’t want to see a single regulatory structure enacted because “there’s lots of money” at stake in, for example, medical-cannabis distribution networks.

Brown’s office has reported that the $1.6 billion budget shortfall this year will be closed via a slowdown on planned outlays for K-12 education and on the elimination of some discretionary spending.

The governor has opposed legalized weed in California on the grounds that everyone would be getting high instead of working. Donald Trump basically makes the same argument. Meanwhile, as Herzberg observes, most of the cannabis sold in the state is on the black market, and for every additional tax the state adds, the more likely it is that those growers will stay in the shadows and not participate in the licensing process. The more tax-heavy the recreational industry becomes, he says, the more likely it is that recreational users will get a medical card to beat the local or state sales tax. There’s a lot of work to be done, and Herzberg is convinced that $53 million won’t cut it.

Meanwhile, Brown alludes to the uncertain federal-level issues: “The amount and timing of revenues generated from the new excise taxes are highly uncertain and will depend on various factors including state and local regulations, how cannabis prices and consumption change in a legal environment, and future federal policies and actions toward the cannabis industry.”

Allen believes the two-decade-old medical cannabis industry in California is probably safe from any attacks from anti-pot attorney general nominee Jeff Sessions, but notes that “there are a lot more questions about adult use moving forward. The governor’s proposal stuck with what we were expecting—combining the two systems and moving forward with one regulated marketplace.”

Herzberg says a pot crackdown in California is hard to imagine given the public support for legalization and that Trump adviser and PayPal founder Peter Thiel is “heavily invested in cannabis.”

Pussy Hats Galore!

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Sonoma County yarn shops are experiencing a shortage of pink yarn.

In preparation for Saturday’s Women’s March on Washington, and its affiliated sister marches countrywide, women are knitting up a storm of pink pussy hats to wear in protest against the president-elect and his sexist rhetoric.

Antagonized by the sexism exhibited throughout the election, women of all age groups are rushing to their local yarn shops to use creativity and practical arts skills for make political statement. Many have one goal in mind: pussy hats made of pink yarn, a symbol of solidarity for women in the Washington march and local offshoots. A staffer at Sebastopol’s Yarnitudes says that the last few weeks have been “Pink! Pink! Pink!”—and notes a definite uptick in the amount of pink yarn leaving the shelves since the election.

Knitterly’s in Petaluma experienced a similar rush. Says Kate, the manager: “We’ve had lots of women for whom this is their first knitting project. They’re learning to knit to make these hats.”

Justine from Cast Away & Folk in Santa Rosa says “more people have bought pink yarn in the last week than in the last few years combined We’ve been selling at least twenty skeins of pink yarn each day for the last three weeks,” she says.

Knitting circles have also become more interactive, says Justine. At the last gathering, almost everyone was knitting hats and they made a night of it: Pink lemonade, pink wine, pink cookies, and baskets of pink yarn. Some hats are donated to the shop, which has been sending them to march organizers in Washington and the Bay Area.

Sister marches to the Women’s March on Washington are happening across the country on the 21st, including three scheduled for Bay Area: San Francisco, Oakland, and San Jose.

Lost World

There is weight in the charming 20th Century Women and a seriousness that keeps it from blowing away like a load of styrofoam peanuts in the wind. That weight comes from the realization of how remote the seemingly near past actually is.

This is Mike Mills’ third and best film (after Beginners and Thumbsucker), and honors the director’s mother as a woman whose life is bound by the last century. The title isn’t too lofty, as the film commemorates the time’s ideals, fascinations and naiveté.

Dorothea (Annette Bening) owns an old house stuffed with ferns in Santa Barbara. Her son, Jamie (Lucas Jade Zumann), has an easy time in school, though he’s occasionally bullied as an art fag because he listens to Talking Heads; his life can be symbolized by the long, lazy slaloms on his skateboard down oak-covered streets.

Boy children in single-mother homes used to be fretted over—without a paternal model, surely they’d turn gay? What one loves about 20th Century Women is that the movie takes the opposite pole, insisting that a young man can learn a lot from hanging around women. Jamie has a sleepover pal, Julie (Elle Fanning), who isn’t interested in him sexually. She gives him lessons to make him cool, and advice like “Guys aren’t supposed to think about what they look like.”

Jamie is also friendly with twenty-something lodger Abbie, played by the delightfully gawky Greta Gerwig. Abbie is the patient zero of punk rock in Santa Barbara, a student in NYC who had to come back west with her LPs (the movie certainly earns its needle drops of Talking Heads, DEVO, Buzzcocks and the Clash) after a medical crisis.

The film is sweet on the past and the transition from hippie twilight to the kind-of, sort-of dancing at punk clubs. It may not be the movie about the cusp of the ’80s, but it gets so much so right and serves as a bittersweet reminder of a lost world.

’20th Century Women’ opens Friday at Summerfield Cinemas,
551 Summerfield Road, Santa Rosa. 707.522.0719.

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Sonoma County yarn shops are experiencing a shortage of pink yarn. In preparation for Saturday’s Women’s March on Washington, and its affiliated sister marches countrywide, women are knitting up a storm of pink pussy hats to wear in protest against the president-elect and his sexist rhetoric. Antagonized by the sexism exhibited throughout the election, women of all age groups are rushing...

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There is weight in the charming 20th Century Women and a seriousness that keeps it from blowing away like a load of styrofoam peanuts in the wind. That weight comes from the realization of how remote the seemingly near past actually is. This is Mike Mills' third and best film (after Beginners and Thumbsucker), and honors the director's mother as...
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