Love Songs

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Hey, lovebirds, check your calendar: Valentine’s Day is right around the corner, and this year the romantic holiday falls on a Saturday. For music lovers, this means a big bouquet of Valentine’s Day concerts that night. Plan ahead for your night of passion, and take a look at some of the eclectic and enchanting shows planned for Feb. 14 throughout the North Bay.

In Marin County, the lovey-dovey celebrations come in all sounds. One of the most exciting lineups takes place in Point Reyes Station when the “Sweethearts of the Radio” musical tradition returns to the Dance Palace. The party is put on by community radio station KWMR, the listener-supported and volunteer-programmed source for music, talk and news in West Marin. The evening kicks off with the soulful pop of singer-songwriter Keeley Valentino. Heidi Clare and Ron Thomason are also on the bill, whose headliner is local super-group Blue Diamond Strings; the rotating ensemble features Paul Knight, Suzy and Eric Thompson, and Kate Brislin, among others.

Down the road in Bolinas, Smiley’s Schooner Saloon has DJ Margarita Azucar hosting a Valentine’s Day ’80s dance party. Dress your new wave best and boogie to the throwback vibes.

If you’re looking for a spicier sound, the passionate Latin groove of Rolando Morales and the Carlos Reyes Quintet perform at the Sausalito Seahorse in a special Cuba-inspired show.

In Napa County, beloved Bay Area violinist Yasushi Ogura shares the love with a classical concert at the Jarvis Conservatory in the city of Napa. The program features works by Mozart and the Spanish composer Manuel de Falla.

In Yountville, love don’t mean a thing if it ain’t got that swing—San Francisco’s Martini Brothers Band jump and jive at the Lincoln Theater. Brass horns and Champagne flutes are paired for a glamorous night of romance and dancing.

All over Sonoma County, clubs and venues will rock with popular local acts out of the North Bay. Out in Monte Rio, the man whose name was made for this holiday, Bobby Jo Valentine, plays at the Rio Theater in a fundraising show to benefit Sonoma County Pride.

In Cotati, North Bay Music Award winners Dylan Chambers & the Midnight Transit rock a Valentine’s Day bash at Spancky’s Bar. And in Sebastopol, 775 After Dark and Cabaret de Caliente host “Whole Lotta Love III,” a burlesque valentine to Led Zeppelin, featuring popular striptease routines set to music from the iconic rock and rollers. When the pasty breaks . . .

For a complete list of Valentine’s Day concerts, see full music listings at Bohemian.com.

Alsace Fest

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As origin stories go, the folks at Cartograph Wines tell a pretty good one.

Here’s Alan Baker, sitting in a kayak in the middle of a Wisconsin lake—if it’s dusk, all the better—wondering what he’s going do with his life, when inspiration strikes, thanks to a bottle of 1998 Alsatian Riesling that he happened to have packed. Then Baker and Serena Lourie, first separately and then together, plot a course for wine town. Until recently, however, there was a big hole in that plot: where’s the Riesling?

After five years of searching, Baker finally found a source of Riesling that suited him: Allan Green’s Greenwood Ridge Vineyards. “It was one of those fortuitous occasions,” says Serena Lourie. “Alan Baker was tasting his wines and said, ‘Boy, I’d really love to get those grapes!'” Turns out, Green was thinking of retiring, and he agreed to sell Baker the grapes.

Cartograph’s first release, the 2013 Greenwood Ridge Vineyard Riesling ($28), tastes like a success so far. The acidity shimmers like light on water, while the buoyant finish hints at more to come. Like morning mist rising skyward, this wine is slowly winding itself up; in a few years, it just might rain honey. Unlike some other fresh, white wines such as Pinot Grigio, good Riesling doesn’t tire out after a few years—some can age like a Cabernet. Baker thinks this one has promise, so he’s holding it back for later release—there’s only one and a half cases left for sale this year. The 2014 will likely be released in September.

Meanwhile, Cartograph will pour its Riesling at the 10th
annual Alsace Varietals Festival Grand Tasting, Saturday,
Feb. 7, in Boonville. Hosted by the Anderson Valley Winegrowers Association, but open to all who have the good taste and daring to grow the traditional white grapes of France’s Alsace region—Muscat, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris—the festivities include a winemaker dinner, educational seminars with speakers including Thomas Schlumberger of Domaines Schlumberger, and a walk-around tasting with 30 wineries and 100 wines from Anderson Valley and around the world, including New York, Alsace and New Zealand; local restaurants and inns contribute tasty bites.

Held in the fairground’s library, the festival is a comfortably scaled event where you can taste and chat without the crush of a crowd. After all, it takes a bit of inspiration to get up here.

The 10th annual International Alsace Varietals Festival,
Feb. 6–8, 2015 is held at the Mendocino County Fairgrounds,
14400 Hwy. 128, Boonville. Grand tasting, Feb. 7, 1–4pm; tickets, $65, at www.avwines.com. Cartograph Wines, 340 Center St., Healdsburg. Daily noon–6:30pm. Tasting fee, $10. 707.433.8270.

Barlow Blues

A majority of tenants at Sebastopol’s Barlow retail development have formed an assocation to challenge what they see as unreasonably high fees. The group has hired a certified public accountant to audit the Barlow’s “common area maintenance” (CAM) fees.

Last summer, 24 Barlow tenants banded together to form the Barlow Tenants Association. The number is now 22 after two members left the Barlow. There are currently 38 tenants at the development.

“We are in the process of auditing the Barlow to better understand how we’re getting to these expenses,” says association leader Ben Kinmont, owner of Ben Kinmont Bookseller, an antiquarian bookshop in the Barlow that specializes in rare books on gastronomy.

Kinmont said the Barlow management is working with the group on the audit. The CPA’s report is expected in the next six weeks or so.

“Our goal is to try and make this work,” Kinmont said.

Barney Aldridge, the Barlow’s developer and owner, said he welcomes the audit and called it a “healthy and good thing.” He said he offered to help pay for the audit, but the association declined. But given the work he’s put into the Barlow and the free rent, loans and other assistance he said he’s given some tenants, he’s frustrated by the complaints.

Since the Barlow opened in 2013, four tenants have terminated their leases. Some cited CAM fees; others pointed to poor sales and management practices.

“I totally closed my business and probably won’t open another because it left such a bad taste in my mouth,” says one former tenant who requested anonymity.

When this former tenant first signed a five-year lease two years ago, the tenant was told CAM fees would be about 18 cents per square foot each month and would only increase a “reasonable” amount.

But the first CAM bill was 28 cents a square foot. Last year, the former tenant’s CAM fee had increased to $900 a month.

“There was nothing reasonable about it,” the former tenant says.

The fees are paid in addition to rent and go toward landscaping, cleaning, marketing, taxes and Barlow employee salaries. The current rate is 47 cents a square foot, a rate Aldridge says is lower than similar developments.

Aldridge says the CAM fees are an estimate and have increased because of unforeseen costs, including a near tripling in flood insurance over the past three years, property reassessment by the county and the need to hire more staff. He says the businesses that left did so because of poor business plans and poor sales, not because of increases in the CAM.

“It had nothing to do with CAM. They just went out of business.”

More due diligence and advice from an attorney, the former tenant adds, could have prevented the situation.

“A business owner wants to know how much the bills are going to be. I was strapped. [The CAM fees] were eating up all the money I had set aside for my business.”

This tenant fears the fees may drive out small West County businesses the Barlow set out to attract. “It’s going to become a shopping mall with Starbucks and chain stores.”

Aldridge says he’s turned chains away. The city of Sebastopol is considering regulations that would prohibit so-called formula businesses; if adopted, the new regulations could prohibit chain stores from moving into the Barlow, says Sebastopol planning director Kenyon Webster.

So far, Gypsy Bay Laurel, C-14 gallery, Lynn’s Lavender and Dance4Change have left the Barlow. Warped Brewing is also planning to leave, but owner Noah Bolmer wouldn’t comment on his reasons. The brewery is no longer making beer in Sebastopol and is moving its operation into San Carlos’ Devil’s Canyon Brewing Co. They are looking for another retail storefront in Sonoma County.

Lynn Rossman is the owner of Lynn’s Lavender. She was the first new tenant to sign a lease at the Barlow—and the first one to leave. After what she said were numerous construction delays and then problems with her unit and few customers, she was given an opportunity to terminate her lease.

“We did so, gladly,” she says.

She believes the departure of businesses is related to larger managerial issues. Rossman supports Aldridge’s vision for the Barlow as a place for local artisan producers and businesses, but she says poor management has hampered the project.

“Had he hired and listened to experienced, competent and knowledgeable people, it would have gone in a different direction,” she says.

Aldridge says Rossman left because of poor sales.

“I’m one of the few landlords that lets anybody out of their lease. Most landlords chase people for years in the courts over their leases.”

Say What?

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As a lifelong musician, I’ve performed in roadhouses, frat houses, opera houses and friends’ houses. I’ve played prisons, churches, college campuses and hospitals. Audience behavior has always fascinated me, and performing in public has afforded me a perch to practice my own brand of honky-tonk sociology. I feel qualified to make the following pronouncement with grim certainty: The average American has the attention span of a lobotomized
fruit fly.

I am old enough to recall the hippie days, when we’d all sit on the floor, staring rapt, grooving on every note. But lately, when I peer out from the stage at a roomful of folks interacting with their phones while gabbing frantically at peak volume, I’m treated to an experience akin to playing in a birdcage full of screeching raptors on crack. As the evening progresses, I watch as eyes go out of focus, faces contort, necks crane to check out everyone who walks in the door and bodies jerk spasmodically in fits of manic laughter. It’s like a Fellini-esque journey into the id.

Need to cultivate humility? Book a night at any drinking establishment in Sonoma County to be reminded that you’re an insignificant speck of cosmic dust.

Now, I don’t go to a gig at a pub or coffeehouse expecting Carnegie Hall, and I can certainly see the irony in the fact that I’m wishing folks would put aside their God-given right to expression so they can pay attention to mine, but there’s a deeper point here.

Enjoying live music—even at the local level—can be relaxing, inspiring, nurturing and sometimes sexy. Music is an emotional art, and the space between focused performer and attentive listener can be charged with a rich range of feelings. If we can’t concentrate on a four-minute song, can we hear the sounds of birdsong when we walk outdoors? Can we listen fully to what a friend is saying in a quiet moment? If we’re never fully present in one place at one time, can food taste as sweet, or love feel as sweet, or the many simple pleasures of being human be known?

As the old railroad crossing signs said: “Stop. Look. Listen.”

Jeff Falconer performs with acoustic power duo Jaydub and Dino.
www.jefffalconer.com.

Open Mic is a weekly feature in the ‘Bohemian.’ We welcome your contribution. To have your topical essay of 350 words considered for publication, write op*****@******an.com.

Letters to the Editor: February 4, 2015

Offensive vs. Oppressive

In his article “The Right to Offend” (Jan. 21), Tom Gogola notes our society’s sensitivity to offensive content. However, his arguments against censorship are undermined, as he overlooks one major detail: the difference between offensive and oppressive content.

“Offensive” and “oppressive” are two distinctly different words that cannot be substituted for each other. The Oxford dictionary groups “offensive” with such words as “insulting,” “hurtful,” “annoying,” “impolite” and “provocative.” When prompted for synonyms for “oppressive,” however, words such as “repressive,” “tyrannical,” “anti-democratic,” “despotic” and “draconian” appear. Offensive content simply upsets, while oppressive content is far more severe—it trivializes pre-existing injustices that the oppressed have faced by mocking them or outright denying their existence.

Now that the crucial difference between “offensive” and “oppressive” has been made clear, the flaws in Gogola’s arguments in “The Right to Offend” are evident. In one of these arguments, Gogola quotes Shannon Wheeler, a political cartoonist. “We’re still getting used to the idea that people can get shut down,” says Wheeler. “You do make the joke that is sexist or racist, or is interpreted that way, and people call for the end of your career. They call for your head. ‘This person should be fired, they should never work again.'”

Wheeler’s remark is incredibly ignorant and somewhat self-absorbed; he completely fails to see past the consequences that the author faces after publishing oppressive content. Wheeler, while focusing on his own potential losses if his material were deemed racist or sexist, completely overlooks any consequences to the victims of the oppression his content perpetuates.

The sad irony of this situation is exemplified by Wheeler’s lamentations—the oppressive content that he, the cartoonist, creates causes him to lose his job and allows the victims of the oppressive content to continue to be discriminated against, persecuted or even killed (such as in the case of the girls kidnapped by extremist group Boko Haram and Charlie Hebdo‘s oppressive cover “dedicated” to the issue). And yet Wheeler blindly ignores the consequences of his cartoon upon those it mocks, and feels compelled to complain about the unfairness and great injustice he would suffer over losing his job.

San Jose

More Comics, Please

Thank you very much for printing the comic strip This Modern World in a format that is legible.

The world’s greatest newspaper man, William Randolph Hearst, knew the value of printing comic strips in his many newspapers in order to increase and maintain readership. In fact, some of the liveliest “letters to the editor” debates concern the deletion and/or addition of different comic strips. You would be wise to increase the number of comics in your paper.

Woodacre

Write to us at le*****@******an.com.

Hot Grooves

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Sizzling with psyche rock and Cambodian pop, Dengue Fever have long been a staple of the Los Angeles dance and music scene. The six-piece band (led by Cambodian singer Chhom Nimol and American musicians Zac and Ethan Holtzman), churn out addictively moving tropical tunes in the vein of vintage ’60s surf karaoke and modern indie-electronica.

Together since 2001, Dengue Fever this month unleash their fifth studio album, The Deepest Lake, which marks a turn in style for the veteran rockers. Dengue Fever perform Friday at City Winery Napa with beat-boxing cellist CelloJoe and multi-instrumentalist Evan Fraser opening.

The Deepest Lake is Dengue Fever’s first album in over four years, a long stretch that saw the group move in new world-music directions in the interim. In addition to their signature Cambodian pop sound, Dengue Fever explore African percussion and hip-hop, and offer extended psychedelic jams throughout the record. It’s their most complex collection, and one that takes chances with a melodically rich palette whose payoff is embodied in newly expansive songs.

Dengue Fever turn up the heat Friday,
Feb. 6, at City Winery, 1030 Main St., Napa. 8pm. $15–$18. 707.260.1600.

Painter of Light

The question of obsolescence is essential to Mike Leigh’s superb Mr. Turner, illustrating an offbeat artist’s contradictory life.

Joseph Turner (1775–1851) was the painter of seaside turbulence, of smoke and brume. In some respects, he anticipated the action painters of the 1950s: Turner “painted” with fingernails and spittle. He is played by Timothy Spall, best known from the Harry Potter films as a wererat. Spall’s squinting, ambling Turner is more like a bear half-out of hibernation. He growls and rumbles his displeasure at everything, from the rising price of pigments to the less than acute criticism coming his way.

Spall also shows us a cordial, good-humored figure. He’s a Dickensian character in some respects—a self-made man, free to speak his mind. He brings a burr and roll to the dialogue, and in the process recalls actors such as W. C. Fields and Charles Laughton.

Many of the people who will hate Mr. Turner will hate it for the artist’s home life—especially the scenes of his brutish use and neglect of his adoring servant Hannah (Dorothy Atkinson), who was crippled with psoriasis. Yet Mr. Turner shows the true satisfaction of domesticity when Turner finally meets his soul mate, Sophia (Marion Bailey), a bright-eyed but seasoned Margate innkeeper with a Kentish accent. Bailey’s warmth and merriness in the role show a kind of attractiveness that’s exactly opposite the brand sold at magazine stands.

As Victorian society got wealthier and duller, the national art became loftier. The pre-Raphaelites came into fashion, flattering the aristocrats who liked to see themselves as the descendants of King Arthur. Through it all, Turner’s canvases became more abstract. What befell Turner is similar to what happened to James Whistler, years later, who was accused of throwing a pot of paint in the public’s face.

Leigh revels in the physicality of this long-gone era. Between the lines, he provides a lesson on how to keep the soul on guard, even as he seeks those things that endure beyond the vagaries of taste.

‘Mr. Turner’ opens Friday, Feb. 6, at Summerfield Cinemas, 551 Summerfield Road, Santa Rosa. 707.522.0719.

Strong Voices

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In an imaginary steam-punk version of Victorian England, a band of brave, opera-singing women yearn to be happy, free—and a little naughty.

In East Berlin, Germany, a mysterious woman with a powerful secret survives against impossible odds, ultimately becoming an inspiration to a young American journalist. In two new productions, “gender” is just the tip of the iceberg in stories that challenge us to look beneath the surface of a few amazing human beings, real and fictional.

Heroines, opening Thursday at Sonoma State University, is a fresh musical review featuring classic operetta tunes from Bertolt Brecht, Franz Lehár, Gilbert and Sullivan, and others. Created by musical director Lynn Morrow and stage director Jane Erwin Hammett, Heroines is set during a time of radical change, when women were demanding the vote and more.

Due to a twist of time, women from various centuries join
forces to express their feelings through indelible songs
borrowed from Threepenny
Opera
, The Merry Widow and other musical masterpieces. In a magical city blending visuals out of Dickens and Jules Verne, these iconic characters join their hearts and voices, in a revolutionary effort to break the shackles of tradition and inequality.

Sounds like fun. And with voices recruited from SSU’s music department and its department of theater arts and dance, this is a show that will probably sound like a blast of pure operatic dynamite—and then some.

At Cinnabar Theater, Doug Wright’s Pulitzer-winning one-actor drama I Am My Own Wife introduces audiences to a different kind of heroine: the real-life Charlotte von Mahlsdorf, a transgender woman whose courage—and possibly a bit of treasonous duplicity—allowed her to escape Hitler’s concentration camps and survive, in her own way, operating a small museum under the noses of her enemies, all during the communist party’s decades-long reign of suspicion and terror in East Berlin.

Working with director Jennifer King, actor Steven Abbott—last seen at Cinnabar in A Couple of Blaguards—plays von Mahlsdorf and 39 other characters in a rip-roaring, tour-de-force of a performance. The two have mounted this production twice before, and recently traveled together to Berlin to rehearse inside the late von Mahlsdorf’s onetime home and museum. Part mystery, part memoir, it’s a morally tangled true story that promises to open up a few of von Mahlsdorf’s secrets, and more than a few eyes.

Sci-Fi Pioneer

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Santa Rosa is world-famous for its plant wizards and beer alchemists, but few people know its place in science fiction history.

Long before Frank Herbert published his masterpiece Dune in 1965 he lived in Santa Rosa when his first sci-fi short story got printed in 1952. Traces of Santa Rosa can be found throughout his later books, including Dune.

Herbert moved to Santa Rosa in April 1949 with his wife, Beverly, and two-year-old son, Brian. They were soon joined by Bruce, born two years later. Herbert worked for the Press Democrat for four years as a photojournalist, writing a wide variety of features, columns and news articles—including one about the very first Doyle Scholarship Fund check presented to Santa Rosa Junior College. The Herbert family moved to Lake Chapala, Mexico, with sci-fi writer Jack Vance in September 1953 to start a writer’s colony.

My search for this lost archive of Frank Herbert articles started when SRJC journalism instructor Anne Belden took our news-gathering class on a field trip to the Press Democrat last year. I asked the editors if they had an index of the articles Herbert wrote while working there.

“We haven’t digitized issues going that far back,” editor Jim Sweeney said. “But I, for one, would be interested in seeing that. Maybe we’ll have an intern do that some day.”

“OK, you talked me into it,” I quipped.

At the time, I was just joking, but later I started taking the idea seriously. My research began last summer when Sweeney let me access the paper’s news clip and microfilm archives, but that fall I took a break for two more semesters to write for SRJC’s Oak Leaf News.

My assignment: covering the trial of the campus cop caught pilfering a quarter-million dollars from SRJC parking meters. I attended each of Jeffrey Holzworth’s courtroom appearances for three semesters, up to his May 29 sentencing. Though I never got paid, I earned a total of three news writing awards.

With Holzworth behind bars, I headed to the Sonoma County History and Genealogy Library to finish scrolling through rolls and rolls of microfilm. In total, my research uncovered 138 articles and more than 200 photographs by Herbert during the four years he lived and worked in Santa Rosa.

The Press Democrat‘s first Herbert byline appeared April 25, 1949: “14-Year-Old Bride Misses Death by Hair’s Breadth!” His first photo-feature appeared May 22 of that year with the epic title, “The Things You Find in the Garbage . . . Old Automobiles, a Human Skull, Money, Silverware, All in Day’s Work at the Dump.”

Herbert wrote articles with spicy titles like “Location of Freeway Signs Confuses Many Motorists” and “Judge Greene Dislikes Courtroom.” Several of his articles highlight local features of Sonoma County: the Gravenstein apple crop, the drop in egg prices, the county spelling bee and a series of articles about the telephone company’s plans to upgrade to dial-phone technology. There is even a photograph of Santa Claus sitting on Herbert’s lap.

SRJC is featured in five of Frank Herbert’s photos and articles. He photographed a Day Under the Oaks fashion show and a visit to the Bear Cubs football team by Frankie Albert, 49ers quarterback and later head coach.

The craft-beer movement in Santa Rosa is older than people think, and Herbert documented it himself. His photos of Courthouse Square show the old Grace Brothers Brewing sign, proudly boasting, “A Sonoma County Product.” Herbert’s photo of a harvester is captioned, “Truckload of hop vines is swung into automatic stripper at W. G. Dutton Ranch on West College Ave.”

Herbert explored a “surrealist extension into the fourth dimension” in his Aug. 25, 1950, article, “To One Part Verne, Add Galley of Zomb, Drop in Heathcliffe and expect Occidental.” Herbert’s twist on a drive in the country could be considered his very first sci-fi story, years before his “Looking for Something” got published in the April 1952 issue of Startling Stories magazine.

Santa Rosa’s influence on Herbert shows in his later works. Before Dune became a bestselling series, he published The Santaroga Barrier in 1968, about a small town in Northern California with an oddly familiar name.

There are hints of elements or characters in Dune in Herbert’s early Press Democrat articles: a family of model-train enthusiasts voice-controlled their train set in December 1949 with a “weird device”—like the Bene Gesserit controlling people with “the Voice.” That same month he wrote about decorating and lighting the Cedar of Lebanon tree at Luther Burbank’s Home & Gardens, where the “plant wizard” is buried by his greenhouse—like Dune planetologist Liet-Kynes, buried in the same sands he tried to transform.

Herbert rode in an Air Force jet May 1950 and said the distance from Santa Rosa to the airbase that took 45 minutes for him to drive only took four minutes by jet. “I am still trying to accustom my mind to a new conception of time and distance”—like Dune‘s Guild Navigators folding space.

Most prescient of all these lost archives is Herbert’s July 1952 photo of 685-pound “Tiny” Atkins, bedridden after a car accident, loaded bed-and-all by five men into a moving van. Watching their efforts, the budding sci-fi writer must have imagined some sort of gadget to help lift the man—just like Baron Harkonnen’s anti-gravity suspensor belts.

I could write a book about all the fascinating Herbert articles I discovered. In fact, I am; I’m calling it Frank Herbert’s Lost Archives, Vol.1: The Santa Rosa Press Democrat 1949–53. It’s dedicated to my brother Robert the Magician, who died this summer after surviving AIDS for 18 years.

The sands of time forget many things, but now people will remember that Herbert’s spice flowed from Santa Rosa.

For more info, go to ErikJorgensenPhotos.Blogspot.com.

Earthly Pleasures

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Chances are if you’ve had truffles, it was in truffle oil, which really means you haven’t had truffles at all because truffle oil is a cloying, synthetic version of the real thing.

Truffle oil is olive oil mixed with 2,4-dithiapentane, a compound that makes up part of the smell of truffles. It’s fake and gross. It’s typically used to foul French fries and popcorn in some kind of phony show of luxury. In an excellent article about the truffle-oil scam, writer Alex Mayyasi offers a great quote: “Comparing truffle oil to real truffles is like comparing sniffing dirty underwear to having sex.” Why settle for soiled undies when you can get the real thing?

Napa’s La Toque is offering a seven-course black truffle menu featuring the luxurious, earthly flavor of truffles on each dish, including dessert. La Toque chef and owner Ken Frank knows his truffles. This is the 33rd year he’s offered the menu. He says a wet summer created a great crop of truffles this winter.

At $200 a person, the meal is a splurge, but it’s a great opportunity to experience the truffles in the hands of a talented chef. And it’s really quite a value given the quantity of truffles served on the tasting menu.

Truffles like to hang out with other rich and ingredients, so the terrine of foie gras with flecks of truffles on top alongside a truffled herb salad made for a great opening dish, especially with the yeasty foil of the Philipponnat “Royale Reserve Brut” Champagne served with it as part of the $90 wine pairing option. My suggestion: do the pairing.

The simplest dish on the tasting menu was the tajarin, an insanely rich and creamy pasta dish made with a surfeit of egg yolks. Truffles love eggs, and the aromatic flavors of the fungi really came alive in this dish.

Truffles are an aphrodisiac. Adding some soft lighting and wine tips the scales even further. La Toque sommelier Richard Matuszczak selected wines that complement truffle’s earthy qualities. Matuszczak brought each new wine to the table with a quick discussion of why he chose the wine for its respective dish, an interaction that not only made drinking the wine more pleasurable, but helped me see the dishes through the eyes of a sommelier and better understand the interplay of flavors.

Of particular note was the 2006 Miner wild yeast Chardonnay served with the tajarin. The wine’s age and interaction with wild yeast softened its buttery propensities to create a wonderfully complex and nuanced wine was a perfect match for the luxuriously rich truffled pasta.

Barolo is a classic pairing with truffles and the 2007 Cascina Dardi Bussia from A&G Fantino did not disappoint—big, juicy and deeply aromatic. Served along side the albufera sauce-napped boneless chicken leg, it was an outstanding match.

My second favorite dish was the last one—truffled pot de crème. Like the tajarin, truffles are at their best when their flavor and aroma are suffused into a creamy medium, be it sweet or savory. Each spoonful of this satiny, pudding-like dessert was testament to the sensual appeal of truffles, cream and eggs.

La Toque’s truffle menu is available for another few weeks, so if you can’t do Valentine’s Day, don’t worry about it. The menu will run as long as truffle season does, generally until early March.

La Toque. 1314 McKinstry St., Napa. 707.257.5157.

Love Songs

Hey, lovebirds, check your calendar: Valentine's Day is right around the corner, and this year the romantic holiday falls on a Saturday. For music lovers, this means a big bouquet of Valentine's Day concerts that night. Plan ahead for your night of passion, and take a look at some of the eclectic and enchanting shows planned for Feb. 14...

Alsace Fest

As origin stories go, the folks at Cartograph Wines tell a pretty good one. Here's Alan Baker, sitting in a kayak in the middle of a Wisconsin lake—if it's dusk, all the better—wondering what he's going do with his life, when inspiration strikes, thanks to a bottle of 1998 Alsatian Riesling that he happened to have packed. Then Baker and...

Barlow Blues

A majority of tenants at Sebastopol's Barlow retail development have formed an assocation to challenge what they see as unreasonably high fees. The group has hired a certified public accountant to audit the Barlow's "common area maintenance" (CAM) fees. Last summer, 24 Barlow tenants banded together to form the Barlow Tenants Association. The number is now 22 after two members...

Say What?

As a lifelong musician, I've performed in roadhouses, frat houses, opera houses and friends' houses. I've played prisons, churches, college campuses and hospitals. Audience behavior has always fascinated me, and performing in public has afforded me a perch to practice my own brand of honky-tonk sociology. I feel qualified to make the following pronouncement with grim certainty: The average...

Letters to the Editor: February 4, 2015

Offensive vs. Oppressive In his article "The Right to Offend" (Jan. 21), Tom Gogola notes our society's sensitivity to offensive content. However, his arguments against censorship are undermined, as he overlooks one major detail: the difference between offensive and oppressive content. "Offensive" and "oppressive" are two distinctly different words that cannot be substituted for each other. The Oxford dictionary groups "offensive"...

Hot Grooves

Sizzling with psyche rock and Cambodian pop, Dengue Fever have long been a staple of the Los Angeles dance and music scene. The six-piece band (led by Cambodian singer Chhom Nimol and American musicians Zac and Ethan Holtzman), churn out addictively moving tropical tunes in the vein of vintage '60s surf karaoke and modern indie-electronica. Together since 2001, Dengue Fever...

Painter of Light

The question of obsolescence is essential to Mike Leigh's superb Mr. Turner, illustrating an offbeat artist's contradictory life. Joseph Turner (1775–1851) was the painter of seaside turbulence, of smoke and brume. In some respects, he anticipated the action painters of the 1950s: Turner "painted" with fingernails and spittle. He is played by Timothy Spall, best known from the Harry Potter...

Strong Voices

In an imaginary steam-punk version of Victorian England, a band of brave, opera-singing women yearn to be happy, free—and a little naughty. In East Berlin, Germany, a mysterious woman with a powerful secret survives against impossible odds, ultimately becoming an inspiration to a young American journalist. In two new productions, "gender" is just the tip of the iceberg in stories...

Sci-Fi Pioneer

Santa Rosa is world-famous for its plant wizards and beer alchemists, but few people know its place in science fiction history. Long before Frank Herbert published his masterpiece Dune in 1965 he lived in Santa Rosa when his first sci-fi short story got printed in 1952. Traces of Santa Rosa can be found throughout his later books, including Dune. Herbert moved...

Earthly Pleasures

Chances are if you've had truffles, it was in truffle oil, which really means you haven't had truffles at all because truffle oil is a cloying, synthetic version of the real thing. Truffle oil is olive oil mixed with 2,4-dithiapentane, a compound that makes up part of the smell of truffles. It's fake and gross. It's typically used to foul...
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