Humming Along

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Fairfax bustles with cyclists, dog lovers and locals chilling over a leisurely coffee or bite to eat. Must be that potent joie de vivre vibe that’s causing people to line up outside Marin County’s one and only authentic Cajun/Creole cafe, the Hummingbird, which has been serving Southern-style fixings since 2010.

Not even Hurricane Katrina kept chef-owner Michelle Elmore from meeting her destiny. In spite of losing her New Orleans home to the natural disaster in 2005, Elmore made a new life for herself in Marin, transitioning from street photographer to restaurant owner.

Elmore and co-owner Jose Pool offer patrons a good taste of both Cajun and Creole worlds. Different cultures entirely, the cuisines have subtle differences. While Cajun dishes (country food) are often spicy and use oil-based roux in its sauces, Creole dishes (city food) use tomatoes and dairy-based roux. Creole dishes also incorporate Caribbean influences.

Tickling our senses as we enter is the glorious smell of chicory coffee, ragtime music and mellow-yellow walls highlighting Elmore’s pictorial achievements. Greeted right away by a hospitable staff, we’re graciously invited to seat ourselves.

We sit at a corner table by the kitchen, next to the daily specials and a “Shut Up and Eat” sign. Taking our orders is Elmore herself.

“How ’bout some beignets?” she asks in a friendly voice.

“Two orders,” I reply.

Yes, ma’am.”

Minutes later, we have three piping hot, powder-coated pillows of perfection ($4.30); minutes after that, blankets of confectioner’s sugar is all that remains. With such offerings as chicken and waffles ($14.60), shrimp ‘n’ grits ($15.60) and the alligator omelet ($15.60), picking a main dish is tough. Eager to try a Louisiana classic, I have a few bites of my guest’s Everything Gumbo, with chicken, sausage, oysters, shrimp, Dungeness crab and tomatoes ($15.60). Generous in the fruits de mer, this intensely flavorful tribute to New Orleans does not disappoint.

Appealing to my own taste buds are the seafood specials. Between the shrimp étouffée ($15.60) and the lobster eggs Benedict ($15.60), choosing is impossible. What to do? Order both.

Thankfully, Elmore is kind enough to accommodate me with a side of shrimp étouffée to accompany my lobster eggs Ben. The side dish ($5), served in a small cup over rice, with shrimp, broth and the holy trinity of Cajun and Creole cuisine (diced onion, celery and bell pepper), is light, balanced and delicious. Larger shrimp, however, would have made a world of difference, as the bay shrimp are borderline microscopic.

Putting me in my happy place for the day is the lobster Benedict: two perfectly poached, organic Red Hill Farm eggs smothered in rich, creamy hollandaise atop sweet succulent lobster, sautéed spinach and an English muffin. With each bite, I savor every ingredient. More surprises come with the occasional bits of lobster peeking through my side of rosemary potatoes.

With this dish—and Hummingbird Cafe—I struck it rich.

Hummingbird Cafe, 57 Broadway Blvd., Fairfax. 415.457.9866.

Mar. 5: Punk Roots in Sonoma

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Singer and songwriter Joshua James Esterline has spent the last 20 years playing everything from punk and heavy metal to traditional folk and Americana. Esterline’s current solo project, Acousta Noir, reflects his musical roots (he hails from the small town of Roseburg, Ore.) and the life of a country boy in the Pacific Northwest. Acousta Noir’s debut LP, Suffer & Overcome, features traditionally styled folk fueled by a passionate punk aesthetic that’s at once familiar and wholly new. This week, the North Bay Hootenanny presents Acousta Noir on Thursday, March 5, at Epicurean Connection, 122 W. Napa St., Sonoma. 7:30pm. 707.935.7960.

Mar. 6: Global Voices in San Geronimo

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In celebration of International Women’s Day, the all-female, globally renowned vocal ensemble Kitka presents a special world-music concert that explores the experiences of women the world over. The rich harmonies of Kitka are inspired by the traditional folk songs of Eastern Europe, especially Slavic and Balkan repertoires. Formed in Oakland in 1979, they have been praised for their intricate arrangements and versatile artistry, and for making a classic folk tradition available to modern audiences. Kitka bring their choral creations Friday, March 6, to the San Geronimo Valley Community Center, 6350 Sir Francis Drake Blvd., San Geronimo. 8pm. $28–$35. 415.488.8888. 

Mar. 7: On the River in Napa

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Napa native and current vice mayor Scott Sedgley is a bit of a history buff. His community involvement includes three decades as a docent at Bale Grist Mill State Historical Site in St. Helena, and he currently holds a position on the board at the Napa County Historical Society. This week, Sedgley invites the public to join him on the Riverboat Captains and Mansions Walking Tour in Napa’s historical Abajo neighborhood. Sedgley will offer stories about the era when riverboats plied the Napa River, and point out the spectacular centuries-old homes that are still standing. Revisit the past on Saturday, March 7, at Napa River Inn’s Hatt Building, 500 Main St., Napa. 10am. $5–$10. 707.255.1836. 

Mar. 11: Treasured Tapestries in Santa Rosa

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In 1951, under the shadow of the Great Pyramid of Giza, Egyptian art professor Ramses Wissa Wassef founded an art center and school that embraced ancient practices of tapestry making. The center flourished, and many of its tapestries are now considered Egyptian national treasures. Engineer and entrepreneur David Williams was captivated by these works, and has become an expert and collector. This week, he presents a lecture titled ‘Tapestries of Egypt: An Experiment in Creativity,’ and is joined by artist and conservator Joyce Ertel Hulbert in discussing the tapestry medium as a vehicle for creative expression. Wednesday, March 11, at Calabi Gallery, 456 10th St., Santa Rosa. 7pm. 707.781.7070.

Lost and Found

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‘Change is kind of a tricky business.”

This pithy pronouncement, uttered in the opening scenes of Danai Gurira’s astonishing period drama The Convert, is both an understatement and a warning. Set in Colonial Africa in the late 1800s, the absorbing play follows a young African woman whose conversion to Catholicism puts her at the center of a violent cultural shift. As the occupying English empire imposes its rule, one of its tools of dominance is the church and its war on “pagan” practices.

Young Jekesai (a transcendent performance by Katherine Renee Turner) has sought shelter at
the cement-floored home of
Mr. Chilford (Jabari Brisport), a pro-English Shona convert. The Shona are the largest ethnic group in Zimbabwe. Bare-breasted, terrified and speaking no English, the newcomer hopes to escape forced marriage to an elderly villager (L. Peter Callender, comically menacing perfection).

Chilford, along with his friend Chancellor (Jefferson A. Russell) and the latter’s educated fiancée, Prudence (Omoze Idehenre, amazing), have traded in their native names and dress for proper Victorian substitutes. As a result, they’ve incurred the suspicions of the locals, who call them traitors.

Jekesai has been brought to Chilford by her cousin, Tamba (JaBen Early), whose mother, Mai Tamba (a wonderful Elizabeth Carter), works there as a servant. It’s a job she keeps by feigning conversion to Christianity, erroneously reciting prayers (“Hail Mary, full of ghosts!”) while secretly maintaining her old customs. Mai Tamba encourages Jekesai—quickly dressed in “proper” attire and renamed Ester—to follow suit, not guessing the young woman will take to Christianity so quickly and passionately.

As local anger grows, Ester’s faith is put to increasingly impossible tests, her love of Jesus competing against her commitment to family, country and her most basic identity. Gorgeously written by Gurira and guided with exceptional skill by director Jasson Minadakis, The Convert only stumbles in its final moments, with a perplexing twist that seems less the inevitable result of previous actions, and more a calculated attempt at giving the play some shock value.

It’s a tiny issue in a play of monumental power and insight.

“You are lost!” Mai Tamba tells Ester. “Forgetting the ways of your people!” The play is a must-see. It illustrates, with impeccable beauty, how the changes we experience can affect more than just us. They also change our families, our communities and, sometimes, the world.

Rating (out of 5): ★★★★½

Sugar and Gas

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Friday, Feb. 27, was the drop-dead date for lawmakers in Sacramento to introduce new bills for consideration. Hundreds of bills were introduced at the last minute that day, and there are now over 2,000 new bills for the State and Assembly to consider. They include everything from the two big, hot culture-war ones making headlines (mandatory vaccination for measles and an assisted suicide bill) to other single-issue type stuff, such as a law calling for mandatory bike helmets for adults.

Each year there are bills that get introduced, only to be shot down in a flurry of high-volume industry lobbying and corporate meddling in the democratic process. Two issues that jump to mind this year and which fall into that category: soda taxes and fracking bans.

This year, for the third year running, a state lawmaker introduced a sugary beverages bill, which would force Big Soda to put a warning on the label that says this junk will give you diabetes. State Sen. Bill Monning, D-Carmel, introduced SB 203, a bill that will likely go nowhere, if history is any indication.

Who needs the Koch brothers when you have the Coke lobby? The soda pop industry has pushed back hard against these bills in years past, and the bills have died on the vine in Sacramento. A recent report on KQED radio highlighted that the soda war has been lost in Sacramento but rages on in enlightened localities eager to push back against staggering rates of childhood diabetes.

Stymied in Sacramento, some municipalities around the state have taken it on themselves to regulate soda consumption, with varying degrees of success. Last year the debate went local, as Berkeley and San Francisco both attempted to levy a tax on fizzy sugar drinks. Berkeley prevailed in its effort, but intense industry pressure—to the tune of
$7.7 million spent by Big Soda—swatted back the San Francisco move to tax soda.

So too fracking. The Western States Petroleum Association lobbying group (WSPA) has poured millions, if not bazillions, into defending the earthquake-enhancing, water-wasting, toxic process of hydraulic fracturing in the state. Fracking’s been going on here for three decades, but only recently fell under legislative scrutiny through 2013’s SB 4.

And, as the debate over fracking intensified in the state, so to did WSPA’s lobbying efforts. A well-traveled factoid that emerged from the California Secretary of State earlier this year: WSPA spent nearly $9 million in lobbying in 2014—twice the previous year.

It appears that state lawmakers have moved on from throwing hopeless bills across the transom that call for a ban. Instead they are trying to hold the industry accountable for groundwater contamination and other fallout. A bill from Das Williams, D-Santa Barbara, would force the industry to bring its practices into compliance with federal water-safety standards.

As in the soda fight, numerous localities around the state have taken it on themselves to pass local anti-fracking measures in the absence of tough statewide legislation. An environmental review mandated by SB 4 is expected in July.

When SB 4 passed in 2013, the industry was given until July to expand its operations without any meddling from the state whatsoever. Meanwhile, the industry has poured money into places like Santa Barbara through Big Oil front groups such as Californians for Energy Independence. According to numerous online sources, that group spent nearly $7 million to defeat a local anti-fracking proposition in 2014.

Meanwhile, does anyone remember a recent U.S. government study that said 96 percent of Monterey Shale gas and oil resources are unreachable by fracking or other means?

Brush to Judgment

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Do you realize that fluoridation is the most monstrously conceived and dangerous communist plot we have ever had to face?

That’s a line from Dr. Strangelove— and if you thought fluoridation was an antiquated debate from a bygone era, you haven’t learned to stop worrying and love the fluoridation.

Sonoma County is in the midst of a contentious process that could lead to the fluoridation of its drinking water. But wasn’t this debate settled years ago? Apparently not.

A county fluoridation advisory committee is tasked with making a recommendation on “community fluoridation” to the Sonoma County Board of Supervisors, which would be done through the Sonoma County Water Agency (SCWA).

Flouridation, proponents say, will help fight tooth decay in a county where studies have found at least half the kids in need of better dental care. Opposing views, to put it mildly, run strong.

Judith Iam is a Sonoma County fluoridation opponent who cites what she calls “the precautionary principle,” which says that “if there’s any reason where something might give one pause, don’t do it. Find another way to do this.” She agrees with the goal—preventing kids from having tooth decay—but argues that “there are direct ways to do that without medicating everybody.

“There are lots of studies,” she adds, that link fluoridation to “thyroid, bone and brain issues. I don’t want any of that.” Iam additionally cites costs to the county to study an issue that she says should be dead and buried.

Even as nearly three-quarters of Americans consume fluoridated water, strong viewpoints over community fluoridation render the issue as controversial as anti-vaccination activism, one of those intersections in American civic discourse where left meets right.

Opponents cite health hazards associated with fluoride—fluorosis, calcified glands, thyroid disease. More libertarian-minded opponents say they are being force-fed a drug against their choice.

Proponents say it’s a mineral additive, not a drug, and one of the most common substances on earth. Like salt or vitamin A, they argue, you need fluoride, but too much of it can be toxic.

“It’s effective, cost-effective and it’s very safe,” says Sonoma County Health Officer Dr. Karen Milman. “The more detailed reviews don’t show negative health impacts. Both sides of this issue are concerned about health—we’re all concerned.”

Milman says that she respects opponents of fluoridation but believes that many offer “a values or belief argument over a science argument. It’s a very passionate issue.”

Fluoridation is a class and a cultural issue in Sonoma County. The county website heralds the benefits of fluoridation and highlights that the county’s poorest residents, many of them Latino, have poor dental health. The biggest direct benefit, says Milman, would be in Santa Rosa, where the infrastructure would make it possible to give a full fluoride dose to residents. But residents around the county would benefit, she says.

The county is deep into a multi-year effort to provide enhanced dental health through community dental clinics and other measures. The final pillar is fluoridation, says Milman.

Here’s some of the backdrop: In 1996, California lawmakers passed AB 733, which set the stage for today’s fight over fluoridation. That law said that any water district with more than 10,000 hookups had to introduce fluoride into the water supply—but only if it could pay for it without passing the cost to consumers. Critics noted that the bill was essentially a voluntary fluoridation program with a huge loophole that places like Sonoma County jumped through.

But now, even if the supervisors vote in favor of fluoridation, the county would first have to commission an engineering study to figure out how to do it. County officials estimate fluoridating the water will cost upwards of $600,000 annually. They don’t even know if flouridation’s going to be enacted here, let alone how they’ll pay for it.

“We’re not there yet,” says Milman. “The county board of supervisors is still assessing whether this is feasible and whether to go forward with it.”

In 2006, Milman says, California ranked 48th out of 50 states when it came to statewide fluoridation. Between 2008 and 2013, California’s fluoridated water supply jumped from 27 percent to 58 percent, according to the Centers for Disease Control and the California State Health Department.

Regionally, San Francisco and Oakland both fluoridate their water. Napa County does not. Santa Rosa and Cotati get water from the SCWA, and Cotati is on record in opposition to fluoridation. But local opposition may be moot. A 2004 amendment to the flouridation law would supersede local anti-fluoridation laws.

The fluoridation battle lines are hardening. As the county continues with its studies, the advocacy group Clean Water Sonoma-Marin is gearing up for the long fight ahead. They’re crowdfunding an appearance by a former government scientist, who’ll speak to the danger of fluoride in April. There’s no timetable from the county about when it might come to a decision, says Milman.

Correction: This article originally stated that California passed further flouridation legislation in 2006 that would restrict localities’ ability to ban flouridation. That legislation was signed in 2004.

Wine Times

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Aventine Glen Ellen is pairing up with pioneering California winemaker Sam Sebastiani for a special winemaker dinner March 31. Sam Sebastiani, patriarch of the Sebastiani winemaking family, will pair four of his
La Chertosa wines with four dishes.

Chef Adolfo Veronese’s meal includes a crudo plate with ahi, shrimp and marinated octopus paired with La Chertosa 2012 reserve Chardonnay; house-made veal tortellini with English peas, fried porcini mushroom in a sage cream sauce and the 2012 reserve Zinfandel; roasted prime beef tenderloin paired with the 2012 reserve Sangiovese; and a cheese course featuring the 2010 La Chertosa Cabernet Sauvignon “Winemaker Remembrance.

La Chertosa wines are produced primarily from grapes grown in red, Tuscan-like soils in Sonoma and Amador counties. The wines are named for the 14th century Renaissance monastery in the Tuscan valley of Farneta where the Sebastiani ancestral roots began. It’s the place where Sam Sebastiani’s grandfather Samuele Sebastiani reportedly learned to make wine. Samuele came to Sonoma in 1893 and compared the area’s soil, climate and hills to Farneta. He founded Sebastiani Winery in 1904, one of the first wineries in California.

The winemakers dinner is $100, plus tax and tip. Call 707.934.8911 or visit glenellen.aventinehospitality.com for more information.

New Score

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For legions of fans, Stewart Copeland is beloved as founder and drummer of the Police. But his vast body of work also includes numerous film scores and, recently, a full-time gig composing orchestral works.

March 8, Copeland performs his newest work at the Green Music Center’s Weill Hall. Titled “Off the Score,” it’s a collaboration with famed concert pianist Jon Kimura Parker. Originally commissioned by the University of Texas, the music mixes classical works and a freewheeling rock sensibility.

“There is very sharp divide in the two great families of musicians: readers and players,” explains Copeland from his office in L.A.. “And they each approach music in a very different way. The orchestral player, reading [music], connects to the music with his eyes, it’s a visual connection with the conductor, the baton, the notes on the page. All of those players have to be dedicated to the page, and their fingers wait for a signal from their eyes.

“The rock or jazz musician,” he continues, “connects to the music with his ears. His eyes can be closed, but his ears are guiding him. And he’s thinking on his feet, he can make it up as he goes along.”

For Copeland, a lifetime of worldly influences and decades as a film composer have allowed him to cross the boundary between these two types of players with relative ease.

The “Off the Score” concert reflects the two sides of this musical coin, with occasionally spontaneous renditions of classical works, as well as original compositions. Copeland illustrates his technique through a recollection.

“When I was a kid walking along in two-four time, I had the music of Stravinsky and Ravel going around in my head, in all kinds of different exotic meters,” he recalls. “But in my mind, playing along in two-four time, I developed this thing of applying contrary rhythms to those meters. I’ve been playing rock drums to Ravel for as long as I can remember.”

Further inspiration for this program came after Copeland met Parker.

“He’s been interested in improvisation,” says Copeland. “He’s always felt he’d love to jump off the cliff and transgress the line of improvisation, which fills most orchestral players with dread.”

Joining the two onstage are three immensely talented players, including Yoon Kwon, first violin in the Metropolitan Opera Orchestra, who also plays in rock bands around New York City.

“She has a technique beyond anything I’ve ever found in session players, even the triple-scale cats here in Los Angeles,” says Copeland.

The performance continues Copeland’s lifetime of innovative and transformative work. Chamber music may never be the same again.

Humming Along

Fairfax bustles with cyclists, dog lovers and locals chilling over a leisurely coffee or bite to eat. Must be that potent joie de vivre vibe that's causing people to line up outside Marin County's one and only authentic Cajun/Creole cafe, the Hummingbird, which has been serving Southern-style fixings since 2010. Not even Hurricane Katrina kept chef-owner Michelle Elmore from meeting...

Mar. 5: Punk Roots in Sonoma

Singer and songwriter Joshua James Esterline has spent the last 20 years playing everything from punk and heavy metal to traditional folk and Americana. Esterline’s current solo project, Acousta Noir, reflects his musical roots (he hails from the small town of Roseburg, Ore.) and the life of a country boy in the Pacific Northwest. Acousta Noir’s debut LP, Suffer...

Mar. 6: Global Voices in San Geronimo

In celebration of International Women’s Day, the all-female, globally renowned vocal ensemble Kitka presents a special world-music concert that explores the experiences of women the world over. The rich harmonies of Kitka are inspired by the traditional folk songs of Eastern Europe, especially Slavic and Balkan repertoires. Formed in Oakland in 1979, they have been praised for their intricate...

Mar. 7: On the River in Napa

Napa native and current vice mayor Scott Sedgley is a bit of a history buff. His community involvement includes three decades as a docent at Bale Grist Mill State Historical Site in St. Helena, and he currently holds a position on the board at the Napa County Historical Society. This week, Sedgley invites the public to join him on the...

Mar. 11: Treasured Tapestries in Santa Rosa

In 1951, under the shadow of the Great Pyramid of Giza, Egyptian art professor Ramses Wissa Wassef founded an art center and school that embraced ancient practices of tapestry making. The center flourished, and many of its tapestries are now considered Egyptian national treasures. Engineer and entrepreneur David Williams was captivated by these works, and has become an...

Lost and Found

'Change is kind of a tricky business." This pithy pronouncement, uttered in the opening scenes of Danai Gurira's astonishing period drama The Convert, is both an understatement and a warning. Set in Colonial Africa in the late 1800s, the absorbing play follows a young African woman whose conversion to Catholicism puts her at the center of a violent cultural shift....

Sugar and Gas

Friday, Feb. 27, was the drop-dead date for lawmakers in Sacramento to introduce new bills for consideration. Hundreds of bills were introduced at the last minute that day, and there are now over 2,000 new bills for the State and Assembly to consider. They include everything from the two big, hot culture-war ones making headlines (mandatory vaccination for measles...

Brush to Judgment

Do you realize that fluoridation is the most monstrously conceived and dangerous communist plot we have ever had to face? That's a line from Dr. Strangelove— and if you thought fluoridation was an antiquated debate from a bygone era, you haven't learned to stop worrying and love the fluoridation. Sonoma County is in the midst of a contentious process that could...

Wine Times

Aventine Glen Ellen is pairing up with pioneering California winemaker Sam Sebastiani for a special winemaker dinner March 31. Sam Sebastiani, patriarch of the Sebastiani winemaking family, will pair four of his La Chertosa wines with four dishes. Chef Adolfo Veronese's meal includes a crudo plate with ahi, shrimp and marinated octopus paired with La Chertosa 2012 reserve Chardonnay; house-made...

New Score

For legions of fans, Stewart Copeland is beloved as founder and drummer of the Police. But his vast body of work also includes numerous film scores and, recently, a full-time gig composing orchestral works. March 8, Copeland performs his newest work at the Green Music Center's Weill Hall. Titled "Off the Score," it's a collaboration with famed concert pianist Jon...
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