Apr. 30 – May 1: Art Engagement in Calistoga

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This weekend is the last chance to experience Napa Valley’s Arts in April program. Luckily, the Engage Art Fair is the biggest showing of the month, immersing guests in the works of dozens of artists and makers in every media, who will be on hand for a weekend that boasts fine food and wine along with paintings, photography and live performances from musicians like Shelby Lanterman and Kristen Van Dyke. Art demonstrations and talks will also give patrons an insight into the process and offer an interactive experience. The Engage Art Fair takes place on Saturday and Sunday, April 30–May 1, at the Napa County Fairgrounds, 1435 N. Oak St., Calistoga. 10am to 4pm both days. Free admission. engageartfair.org.

Apr. 30: Good Greenhouse in Santa Rosa

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The homegrown professionals behind Studio Space Santa Rosa recently teamed up with national nonprofit organization the Greenhouse Project, a group that focuses on offering artistic and educational resources to those in need and engaging local communities to help establish a place where elders enjoy a higher quality of care. This weekend, Studio Space opens its gallery for a special fundraising art show, where guests can enter a raffle to win artwork by over 20 talented local artists and photographers. There will be live music too. The doors open on Saturday, April 30, at Studio Space Santa Rosa, 840 Piner Road #14, Santa Rosa. 6pm. $10 admission. studiospacesantarosa.com.

Apr. 30: Tell Me About It, Stud in Cloverdale

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Nearly 40 years after its release, 1978’s Grease is still the word. This weekend, the Alexander Film Society presents a special Grease Sing-Along at the Drive-In. Cloverdale’s fairgrounds turn into a retro-party with your favorite Pink Ladies and T-Birds on the big screen, and everyone is invited to sing and dance along with classic hits like “Summer Nights” and “Greased Lightnin’.” You won’t be branded a fool. Food and drinks will be available and proceeds go to the film society. Gates open at 6:30pm on Saturday, April 30, at the Cloverdale Citrus Fairgrounds, 1 Citrus Drive, Cloverdale. $15 per individual; $50 per car. avfilmsociety.org.

Vinyl Scream

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This story starts in 1999, the year the acclaimed documentary American Movie introduced audiences to the idiosyncratic brilliance of independent Milwaukee filmmaker Mark Borchardt. The funny and inspiring film followed Borchardt as he worked to complete his short, low-budget horror film Coven (which Borchardt pronounces to rhyme with “woven”) while facing financial and personal hardships.

American Movie painted Borchardt and his associates in a humorous light, but the fact is Coven is an intense and visceral achievement, shot in stark black-and-white and featuring a creepy synthesizer score composed by Milwaukee musician Patrick Nettesheim.

It was that score that hooked Sonoma County musician and podcaster Josh Staples. Since 2013, Staples, Jef Overn and Brian Henderson have hosted the horror podcast Forever Midnight, described as a joyful discussion of horror in cinema. Last week, the Forever Midnight crew went from enthusiasts to entrepreneurs by releasing the official Coven soundtrack on vinyl, nearly 20 years after the film’s release.

“I love putting out records,” says Staples, who’s been producing albums as a member of Sonoma County bands the Velvet Teen and the New Trust for two decades. “I’ve also been a horror-movie music collector since I’ve had records. The music is so intense.”

Two years ago, Staples introduced Overn and Henderson to American Movie and Coven. Soon, the group was addictively watching and rewatching Borchardt’s film, about a struggling, alcoholic writer who joins a support group that appears to have demonic motivations.

“To me, Coven is a symbol of artistic struggle, but the movie turns out to be great,” says Staples. Coven is regarded by fans as the quintessential cult classic, and its ominous, dreamlike score is one of its strongest elements.

Staples reached out to both Borchardt and Nettesheim about releasing a soundtrack, and was happy to find both were excited to work on the project. From there, the Forever Midnight crew collected Nettesheim’s original recordings, remastered the tracks and worked with Borchardt to assemble a high-quality vinyl package that includes hand-painted artwork, liner notes by Borchardt and Nettesheim, and an original Coven movie poster. With a pressing of 500 copies, this first run of the soundtrack also includes a digital download of the film and a page from the screenplay.

“We went as far as we could with it,” says Staples. “It felt like what the movie deserved.”

‘The Coven Original Motion Picture Soundtrack’ is available now at the Last Record Store, 1899 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, and online at forevermidnight.net.

Sour Notes

What lessons can we draw from the life of socialite and amateur opera singer Florence Foster Jenkins? Director Xavier Giannoli’s fictionalization, Marguerite, set in 1920s France, supposes only tragic ones.

After inheriting her father’s fortune in the early 1900s, Jenkins, a former piano teacher, built up a fashionable social circle and pursued her dream of a career in music, despite possessing zero talent. Like Jenkins, the Baroness Marguerite Dumont (the agreeably sweet Catherine Frot) has an unkillable ambition to perform opera in public, though her voice is like that of a tortured screech owl.

With the connivance of Mandelbos, her butler and photographer (Denis Mpunga in a part modeled after Erich von Stroheim’s Max in Sunset Boulevard), the neglected wife assembles a group of freakish supporters to encourage her as she heads for the stage where, dressed in angel wings (like Jenkins), she massacres the classic arias.

It’s likely that Giannoli named his heroine after actress Margaret Dumont, the superbly oblivious matron so often needled by Groucho in the Marx Brothers’ movies. If only this Marguerite had the real Dumont’s ability to tune the world out; the assumption is that Marguerite’s passion for music is simply the tragedy of a woman seeking the attention of her disaffected husband—a sentimental approach to the Jenkins legend.

Barely sketched in: the romantic subplot of a critic and a young singer of genuine talent, as well as a Dadaist backdrop that never pays off. (In the film’s single best scene, Marguerite causes a riot in an avant-garde cabaret with her key-free performance of the French national anthem.) But this movie is in no position to mock, since it never finds its own key and flounders its way to a haywire finale.

‘Marguerite’ opens April 29 and Summerfield Cinemas, 551 Summerfield Road, Santa Rosa. 707.522.0719.

Pinot to Pine For

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Being a fan of Williams Selyem is an exercise in delayed gratification. It’s not that the wines require years of cellaring—being mostly Pinot Noir, they are reasonably drinkable upon release. And it’s only partly that they are offered just twice a year. First, you must add your name to “the List” and wait, for more than half a year, until your name is called. This is why the words that most often follow “Williams” and “Selyem” and “iconic” are “highly allocated.”

To top that, the winery has no tasting room open to the public, so you cannot try before you buy. First, get in line. Recently, I jumped that line, to find out what this world-famous but locally secretive winery’s got tucked away off Westside Road in Healdsburg.

The first thing I do is overshoot the driveway by about a mile. Point taken: Williams Selyem does not invite the casual visitor, and displays only a discreet address by a buzzer and a locked gate. At the top of the drive looms a striking, glass-fronted building that seems to be bursting with wine barrels. They’re empty, decorative barrels, it turns out, each a tribute to vineyard sources they’ve worked with over the years.

This slick space, opened in 2010, is a place apart from the humble garage where founders Burt Williams and Ed Selyem made their first wines under the name “Hacienda del Rio” in the early 1980s. When I ask about that label, tasting salon host Jesse Hummel reaches over and plucks that very bottle off the wall to show me. This could be a magic moment for a long-waiting fan.

A dented, old stainless-steel dairy tank enhances the shrine-like experience—on a tight budget, Williams and Selyem bought these second-hand tanks to use as fermenters. But it’s more than a relic: fermentation is still done the same way in dozens of such tanks up the road at the old facility, ensuring, perhaps, that some subtle character of the wines does not change.

“You could say it’s self-created market scarcity,” Hummel suggests of the complex allocation scheme. “But do the prices reflect that?” Indeed, the cinnamon-spiced and pomegranate-and-blood-orange-fruited 2013 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($60) is not crazy expensive for a coveted Pinot from this area.

The latest iteration of the California State Fair winner that got the winery noticed in 1987, the silky, demure 2012 Rochioli Riverblock Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($89), is attention-getting if you’re paying attention. A rare library release, the warm, earthy and strawberry-conserve-scented 2012 Bucher Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($69) is offered directly to visitors—hope for instant gratification after all.

Williams Selyem, 7227 Westside Road, Healdsburg. First, get on the list. 707.433.6425.

Real Money

What is Votesane and why did the Virginia-based political action committee recenty contribute $35,500 to conservative Napa Democrat Mike Thompson’s 10th congressional race?

Thompson has described himself as a proud Blue Dog who does not toe the Democratic party line. That posture appears to line up with Votesane’s public mandate of sensible nonpartisanship. So maybe the $35,500 was a reward for Thompson’s recent and headline-grabbing bipartisan gun-control efforts? That’s surely an issue that could stand for some congressional sanity. Or maybe it was another “pop-up PAC” related to defeating Donald Trump. Who wouldn’t want to “vote sane” this year?

But a closer look at who actually contributes to the organization reveals that Votesane is fronting for real estate interests, which overwhelming dominate contributions sent to the PAC since 2011.

Votesane was founded in 2010 and offered itself to voters as a “non-partisan, one-stop portal to help you stay informed and get involved,” according to its website. Its founder, Rob Zimmer, is a former lobbyist for Freddie Mac, the private, but government-sponsored, housing lender. The site claims to offer a unique platform that “enables you to donate directly to the candidates and issues you care about” by forwarding donations directly to candidates. Zimmer told Reuters in 2010 that he created the site because “citizens are tired of one-sided stories. Votesane opens the doors to all sides and levels the playing field.”

That sounds pretty cool—so why do Federal Election Commission (FEC) reports clearly show a one-sided donor base? Donors from the real estate industry are the only apparent contributors to Votesane between 2011 and 2015.

Upon its founding in 2010, Politico and USA Today each offered profiles of the PAC that essentially parroted a Votesane press release and highlighted the user-friendly ease by which contributions could be directed at candidates or issues dear to individual voters. This was “political giving made easy,” reported a breathless Politico. USA Today decreed it a “non-partisan site that aims to streamline political giving.”

A review of the first set of contribution reports filed with the FEC filed in October 2010 bears out the Votesane claim: Francis Furrow, an Alaska retiree, sent 15 bucks that September; a Virginia homemaker sent $500, and individuals from various fields also sent in so-called conduit contributions as Votesane got off the ground.

But a review of FEC reports that detail contributions made to the organization after 2010—the organization has been a conduit for some $6.8 million, according to the Votesane online money ticker—is an eye-opening encounter with opaque money in politics. A review of hundreds of pages of donation receipts in the FEC reports from 2011 through 2015 reveal that all of the donations came from the real estate industry.

The sub rosa real estate contributions that flowed into the organization’s coffers in 2011 didn’t stop the Washington Post from declaring, in April 2012, that the Votesane website “isn’t necessarily aimed at those who are already heavily involved in the process. Instead, it hopes to attract both moderates and political newcomers.”

Bob Woodward must have been on vacation that week, because an analysis of year-end FEC filings from 2011 would have driven home the fact that Votesane was attracting real estate industry money, above all else.

As recently as 2014, Thompson had commercial real-estate interests in his district. According to financial-disclosure reports from that year, where he is listed as a “general partner” and former owner of a 20 percent interest in a commercial real estate partnership called Travis Webb General Partnership. According to the reports, Thompson earned between $100,001 and $250,000 that year through his partnership with the commercial realtor.

Thompson ceased to be a partner in Travis Webb in 2014, according to information contained in the financial disclosure reports available at OpenSecrets, a project of the Center for Responsive Politics. Unclear in the reports is whether Thompson earned that money through a particular sale, or if he sold his 20 percent share back to Travis Webb for that amount. Asked to clarify the source of upwards of a quarter-million dollars, his spokesperson would only confirm what was already indicated on the disclosure reports: “The congressman is no longer a partner in Travis Webb,” says Megan Rabbitt via email.

The $35,500 Votesane contribution to his 2016 campaign is a first for Thompson, who joined California Republicans Gary Miller and Kevin McCarthy on Votesane’s donor roll (Miller retired from Congress in 2015). According to OpenSecrets, those Republicans were the top two recipients of Votesane’s largesse, racking up $101,000 and $91,000, respectively, in their congressional runs. The group has also sent campaign funds to other California Democrats, including Maxine Waters and Xavier Becerra. The $35,500 directed to Thompson’s reelection effort represents the single largest campaign contribution he has accepted in his nearly two decades in Congress.

Votesane appears to have gone to some effort to keep its emphasis on real estate contributions from the public eye. The name itself is reminiscent of Vote Smart, a nonprofit founded in 1992 that “provides free, unbiased information” about candidates, issues and elected officials, according to its website.

The organizations may sound alike, but appear to share little in common. Votesane offers a public interface through its website that comes with all sorts of interactivity, red-white-and-blue visuals and a big checkmark that denotes citizen participation in the electoral process. Spend a few moments tooling around on the website, with its thumbnail candidate sketches and politically engaged Twitter feed, and you’ll be practically singing along to the old strains of “I’m Just a Bill” at the good-governance surface hustle. Dig a little deeper, and you’ll be singing “Little Boxes” for hours.

Open-government advocates at the Washington, D.C.–based Sunlight Foundation say Votesane should come clean about its donor base.

“The group appears to be a conduit organization that allows donors to direct their contributions to any candidate they choose,” says Sunlight spokeswoman Jenn Topper, “but according to its FEC filings, the donors come almost exclusively from the real estate industry.”

She adds that “realtors traditionally spend heavily on both sides of the aisle, and with the ongoing deadlock in Congress, it’s no surprise that the industry might take this approach to encourage more bipartisanship. What is surprising is that this organization is a conduit for a particular set of interests, but doesn’t disclose that anywhere on its website or in its public communication. A group whose contributors have such a clear agenda should be more forthcoming about where its interests truly lie.”

Votesane did not respond to three emailed requests for comment. Thompson was asked whether he knew about the organization’s real estate emphasis; whether he would consider sending back the contribution, given the lack of transparency in Votesane’s public posturing; and for a more general explanation about the contribution and its timing, in light of the congressmen’s real estate interests in the home district. After all, as Votesane’s own website observes, “an informed, educated electorate that donates and votes is very powerful.”

Thompson’s office didn’t directly address any of those questions. “He works closely with realtors on issues of importance to our district and is proud to have their support,” Rabbitt says via email.

Of Rice and Mein

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In spite of the culinary riches around Healdsburg’s town square, Asian cuisine is not well represented. Four-month-old old Persimmon on the Square helps fill that gap, albeit with mixed results.

The menu draws on several cuisines—Chinese, Korean, Vietnamese and Thai. There’s even a quasi-Hawaiian dish. Therein lies the problem. It’s difficult enough to master one cuisine. Adding others in the spirit of comprehensiveness usually results in mediocrity.

Starters are excellent. The shrimp and pork dumplings ($9), served with slices of watermelon radish in a shallow pool of spicy soy sauce, are plump, juicy and delicious. The bulging spring rolls ($10), loaded with rice noodles, julienned carrots and avocado, are good. I loved the poke salad ($16), fresh greens and sliced English cucumbers tossed with avocado and ahi in a yuzu-soy sauce vinaigrette. A sprinkling of caviar gives each bite a satisfying, briny pop.

Chef Danny Mai emigrated from Vietnam, and he remembers the flavors of his homeland well. The pho ($16) is a classic version of the noodle soup and served with a flourish: the aromatic, star-anise-spiked broth is poured from a silver pitcher over the noodles and thinly sliced brisket, cooking the raw beef in the process. Some of the beef remains on the chewy side, but the wonderful meatballs that also populate the bowl make up for that.

My favorite dish is the banh mi ($14), another Vietnamese standard. The contents of the lunch-only sandwich change daily, and on my visit it was grilled pork. The juicy, expertly charred pork is a great counterpoint to the tangy, crunchy pickled carrots and daikon radish.

Those are the highlights. Here’s the blooper reel. The Chinese chicken salad ($18) is more American than Chinese, but it’s got no identity here. Wanly dressed greens are paired with a few ragged hunks of sauteed chicken, as if they were tossed on as an afterthought.

The mapo tofu ($16) is a bigger disappointment. The dish is a classic of Sichuan cooking that’s known for the pleasing (to me) numbing heat of the peppercorns and the fiery chile sauce that lacquers the vegetables and tofu. Persimmon’s version has no detectable heat or Sichuan peppercorns. It’s bland, wok-fried vegetables and tofu. What it lacks in spiciness it makes up for with copious amounts of oil.

Service is well-meaning but amateur. Servers don’t remember who ordered what (“Who gets the chicken salad?”), and long waits ensue when the place is busy. When I complained about my insipid mapo tofu, my server said she’d pass my sentiments to the kitchen and then came back 10 minutes later to ask if I wanted the kitchen to redo it. Too late.

The restaurant is a good-looker. Asian art blends with modern lighting and fixtures to create a comfortable, urbane dining room. The small, open kitchen adds to the restaurant’s visual appeal. There are also a few small tables out front on the sidewalk.

There’s a well-chosen wine list. The sparkling wine and Riesling on the menu are ideal matches for Mai’s menu. Pick the right items, and you’ll enjoy this little pan-Asian outpost in an area crowded with pizza, Mexican food and Mediterranean cuisine.

Debriefer: April 27, 2016

A signage war on the Sonoma-Marin county border on Red Hill Road reached a state of edgy ceasefire recently as competing pro– and anti–Donald Trump sentiments were eliminated from view. It was a terse battle that found symmetry in the escalating violence surrounding Trump and his supporters.

The first sign appeared about three months ago on a tree with a trunk that leaned into the road. It read, in military-style stencil: “Vote Trump.” Not long after, the sign disappeared. Another sign appeared, higher up the tree, sturdier and yellow and sheathed in plastic. It read, “Trump 2016.”

The sign was a too-juicy target for anti-Trump sentiment, and soon thereafter—and right around the time Trump supporters were sucker-punching protesters—the middle of the sign was gouged out by what appeared to be a rock.

The embattled signage toughed it out for awhile, its gaping wound of victimhood there for the world to see—but was met with competing messages that appeared on retaining walls near the Trump Tree.

“Trump = Hate” appeared one day and appeared to spark a reaction. “Vote Trump” returned and replaced the broken sign. “Trump = Hate” was painted over, then the stencil-signage was gone, too. Now there’s just a blank rectangle of wood on the Trump Tree. “Fuck Trump” appeared on another nearby retaining wall; it too has since been painted over.

Trump is steamrolling toward victory in the GOP primary, and polls show he’s blowing Ted Cruz out of the water in California, whose primary is June 7. Whether Trump’s reluctant pivot to a “more presidential” posture will be rewarded with a new Trump Tree or even a Trump Stump, we’ll keep you posted.

Burger Bar

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It’s risky to open a burger joint. I mean, aren’t there enough already?

When Sonu Chandi purchased Flipside Burgers and Wings on Third Street in Santa Rosa late last year, he gambled on locals’ appetite for meat patties and buns. His new place, Bibi’s Burger Bar, doesn’t look a whole lot different from the former occupant, but so far so good. It’s got a retro-cool vibe with clean lines and plush booth seating. And the burgers are good.

The place serves an extensive variety of burgers and seems to be drawing an appreciative crowd. And it succeeds on its simplicity: burgers, sandwiches, a few salads, soups, nachos, fat, crisp fries and thick milkshakes. There’s a full bar, too, so if you want bourbon in your shake, you can get it.

At $11–$13, the burgers are a step above fast food in price, quality and variety. Classicist that I am, I tried the Classic Bacon Cheeseburger ($11). It’s just what it says it is. It wasn’t quite medium rare as I requested, but was still a very respectable, plump burger. If you want something less traditional, there are variations like the Thai burger with chile-lemon grass slaw and lime mayo ($11) and the Cabernet burger ($13), layered with Carmody cheese, a portobello mushroom, horseradish sour cream and whole-grain mustard. Too bad there’s not a grassfed-beef option.

Chandi co-owns Stout Brothers Irish Pub & Restaurant in Santa Rosa and six North Bay Mountain Mike’s pizza franchises. He’s also opening Craft 535 Kitchen & Bar on Fourth Street, the location of the former restaurant Portofino. That was supposed to open in January, but like every restaurant project, it’s taking much longer than planned to open. While you wait for that, wander over to Bibi’s for a burger. 630 Third St., Santa Rosa. 707.523.1400.

Apr. 30 – May 1: Art Engagement in Calistoga

This weekend is the last chance to experience Napa Valley’s Arts in April program. Luckily, the Engage Art Fair is the biggest showing of the month, immersing guests in the works of dozens of artists and makers in every media, who will be on hand for a weekend that boasts fine food and wine along with paintings, photography and...

Apr. 30: Good Greenhouse in Santa Rosa

The homegrown professionals behind Studio Space Santa Rosa recently teamed up with national nonprofit organization the Greenhouse Project, a group that focuses on offering artistic and educational resources to those in need and engaging local communities to help establish a place where elders enjoy a higher quality of care. This weekend, Studio Space opens its gallery for a special...

Apr. 30: Tell Me About It, Stud in Cloverdale

Nearly 40 years after its release, 1978’s Grease is still the word. This weekend, the Alexander Film Society presents a special Grease Sing-Along at the Drive-In. Cloverdale’s fairgrounds turn into a retro-party with your favorite Pink Ladies and T-Birds on the big screen, and everyone is invited to sing and dance along with classic hits like “Summer Nights”...

Vinyl Scream

This story starts in 1999, the year the acclaimed documentary American Movie introduced audiences to the idiosyncratic brilliance of independent Milwaukee filmmaker Mark Borchardt. The funny and inspiring film followed Borchardt as he worked to complete his short, low-budget horror film Coven (which Borchardt pronounces to rhyme with "woven") while facing financial and personal hardships. American Movie painted Borchardt and...

Sour Notes

What lessons can we draw from the life of socialite and amateur opera singer Florence Foster Jenkins? Director Xavier Giannoli's fictionalization, Marguerite, set in 1920s France, supposes only tragic ones. After inheriting her father's fortune in the early 1900s, Jenkins, a former piano teacher, built up a fashionable social circle and pursued her dream of a career in music, despite...

Pinot to Pine For

Being a fan of Williams Selyem is an exercise in delayed gratification. It's not that the wines require years of cellaring—being mostly Pinot Noir, they are reasonably drinkable upon release. And it's only partly that they are offered just twice a year. First, you must add your name to "the List" and wait, for more than half a year,...

Real Money

What is Votesane and why did the Virginia-based political action committee recenty contribute $35,500 to conservative Napa Democrat Mike Thompson's 10th congressional race? Thompson has described himself as a proud Blue Dog who does not toe the Democratic party line. That posture appears to line up with Votesane's public mandate of sensible nonpartisanship. So maybe the $35,500 was a reward...

Of Rice and Mein

In spite of the culinary riches around Healdsburg's town square, Asian cuisine is not well represented. Four-month-old old Persimmon on the Square helps fill that gap, albeit with mixed results. The menu draws on several cuisines—Chinese, Korean, Vietnamese and Thai. There's even a quasi-Hawaiian dish. Therein lies the problem. It's difficult enough to master one cuisine. Adding others in the...

Debriefer: April 27, 2016

A signage war on the Sonoma-Marin county border on Red Hill Road reached a state of edgy ceasefire recently as competing pro– and anti–Donald Trump sentiments were eliminated from view. It was a terse battle that found symmetry in the escalating violence surrounding Trump and his supporters. The first sign appeared about three months ago on a tree with a...

Burger Bar

It's risky to open a burger joint. I mean, aren't there enough already? When Sonu Chandi purchased Flipside Burgers and Wings on Third Street in Santa Rosa late last year, he gambled on locals' appetite for meat patties and buns. His new place, Bibi's Burger Bar, doesn't look a whole lot different from the former occupant, but so far so...
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