Spotlight on Calistoga

As spring comes to ground zero of the Tubbs fire, nearby winemakers count their blessings

For the winemakers near Tubbs Lane, the coming of spring is bittersweet.

While spring is more than a month away, the unseasonably warm weather seems to have left winter far behind. The sun beams down from azure skies, and white tree blossoms, green grass and yellow mustard flowers paint the landscape in bright swaths of color. The long run of warm weather has given way to early talk of bud break, the first green shoots on dormant grapevines.

Tubbs Lane is where the Tubbs fire got its name. But the deadly firestorm that started the night of Oct. 8 didn’t actually begin here. The wind-whipped inferno started a little farther up Highway 128, near Bennett Lane. But for those who live and work near Tubbs Lane, it was ground zero.

Underneath the growing thicket of green on the hillsides that rise steeply from the valley floor are the black scars of the fire and the charred foundations of homes lost in the disaster. While green seems poised to overtake the black as the landscape heals, it will take those who lived through the fire longer to recover.

“It was bloody terrifying,” says Rachel Gondouin, associate winemaker at Bennett Lane Winery, just around the corner from Tubbs Lane.

The tile-roofed winery survived the fire, but Gondouin says they had only harvested about 50 percent of their grapes when the disaster struck, and much of the crop was lost to smoke damage. But she’s looking to the future.

“It’s such a beautiful time of year right now, with all of the mustards growing—it gives us a sense of renewal into 2018,” she says. “We are excited for the promise the new vintage will bring.”

After riding over Mount St. Helena on his motorcycle from Lake County the morning of Oct. 8, Envy Winery winemaker Banton Kirkendall stayed on site to protect the winery and his fermenting Cabernet Sauvignon. Half the winery’s crop was picked before the fire. The remainder does have a whiff of smoke taint, but Kirkendall says creative blending should take care of that.

A former firefighter, Kirkendall appreciates the role fire plays in California. “The forest needs to burn to regenerate,” he says.

Kirkendall wonders if there will be two Napa Valley 2017 vintages, pre-fire and post-fire. “We will find out,” he says.

For now, Kirkendall’s watching the surrounding landscape change.

“All that green and black,” he says. “It’s pretty amazing.

Chateau Montelena is one of Tubbs Lane’s most celebrated wineries. Its 1973 Chardonnay beat out 11 other French and California white wines at the famous Judgment of Paris in 1976. The winery was founded by businessman Alfred Tubbs in 1888, the man for whom the road is named. The Tubbs fire didn’t damage the winery, but vineyard manager David Vella says 45 tons of grapes still on the vine were lost to smoke damage. The winery did not fare so well in 1964 when a wildfire destroyed the property’s stately mansion and farm building.

“This was history almost repeating itself,” Vella says.

Vella lives on the property and says if the winds had changed direction during the fire, the fate of the winery would have been very different. “It would have been ugly.”

Every morning, Vella looks to the north at the fire-scarred hills and realizes how lucky he was. “It’s a blessing,” he says. “We feel very fortunate.”

While the lack of rainfall has him worried, he takes some solace in the profusion of new growth t

“This is renewal to a certain extent,” he says. “It’s soothing to see all the green.”

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LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

Karan Schlegel knows her way around the city she’s called home for 36 years

Describe your perfect day in Calistoga?

Sitting in my backyard drinking my morning coffee, reading the paper or a book, and waving to the hot air balloons as they fly over town. After that, I walk downtown to the Saturday Market for fresh fruit and vegetables, stopping in at Bella Bakery for a pastry, coffee and a chat with locals. Then I check out what’s new in the stores on Lincoln Avenue. Mid-afternoon would then lead me to one of the spas for a mineral or mud bath, massage and a swim in the mineral pool. The perfect day would end sharing dinner with family or friends.

Where is your favorite place to eat in Calistoga and why?

I enjoy all the various cuisines offered in the local restaurants, but if I have to choose one that stands out it’s Solbar located at Solage. Whether I am sitting outside by the pool looking at the Palisades mountains, or inside on a cold day by the fireplace, the tranquil atmosphere makes me feel like I am on vacation.

Where do you take first-time visitors in Calistoga?

I take first-time visitors to the Sharpsteen Museum of Calistoga History. It was founded by Ben Sharpsteen, who was an Academy Award–winning animator, producer and director for Walt Disney Studios. The memorabilia of Ben’s career and an Oscar are on display in the founder’s room of the museum.

What do you know about Calistoga others don’t?

I have only lived in Calistoga 36 years and am aware there are locals in their 90s that know more about Calistoga’s history. However, I did ask my husband, Ron, who was born and raised in Calistoga. Ron’s family property was located two miles south of Calistoga below Sterling Vineyards on Highway 29. He remembered there was a trail across from their property that was built by Chinese laborers. The trail ran north toward Diamond Mountain and Kortum Canyon just above Calistoga. The land is now covered by vineyards, houses and roads.

If you could change one thing about Calistoga what would it be?

The housing shortage. Family members of Calistogans, including my children, find it challenging to continue living in our community due to the shortage of apartments and the rising cost of real estate. Unless children inherit or take over running a family business, they tend to leave Calistoga and move somewhere more affordable.

The Gav Guv

Lt. Gov. Gavin Newsom is running for governor of California this year, and our colleague at our sister paper the Metro in San Jose, Jennifer Wadsworth, caught up with him at a recent event at the Laborers’ International Union in Silicon Valley, where Newsom talked about education, the tech sector, income inequality, cannabis, affordable housing, Trump and more. Will Gav be guv? He’s facing off against former Los Angeles Mayor Antonio Villaraigosa (who just nabbed the endorsement of San Jose Mayor
Sam Liccardo), California State Treasurer John Chiang and Delaine Eastin, the former California state superintendent of public instruction and the only woman in the race. The latest polls have Newsom and Villaraigosa running neck and neck in advance of the nonpartisan June 5 primary. We interviewed Villaraigosa last month, and before election day we’re aiming to give Mr. Chiang and Ms. Eastin the same opportunity to make their case to our readers.—Tom Gogola

The Bohemian: Bay Area cities are ground zero for income inequality. How do you think we arrived at this point of extreme poverty in the shadow of plenty, and what steps would you take as governor to alleviate those problems—both on a structural level and in the short-term?

Newsom: The only substantive way we’re going to address this issue is you’ve got to begin at the beginning. Our interventions come too late. We’re playing catch-up, we’re triaging it. At the end of the day, if we don’t focus on the first few precious years of a child’s life, we are making a huge mistake—and we’ve been doing that for a generation. The science is in, it’s overwhelming: billions and billions of neurons exploding at the same time; 85 percent of that brain is developed by the age of three. If you don’t capture a kid by the age of three, we’re going to be spending extraordinary amounts of money playing catch-up.

So we have a huge focus on prenatal care, on nurse home visits, early intervention and those first three precious years. Obviously as mayor, I did universal preschool—fully implemented it. That’s profoundly important from a foundational perspective. But that’s, to me, my focus: the readiness gap, and not waiting for it to become an achievement gap.

Do you think that’s something California could pull off without federal funding?

We can. We’d love to see the federal government recognize what all the experts already know, but the state can amplify better behavior at the local level. Local government needs to significantly increase its investment, counties need to increase their investment, and certainly the state needs to incentivize that. And that’s a big part of what we want to do, is incentivize better behavior at the local level.

I think what’s happened in the past is governors have done—we’ve modestly invested in this space, but not to the degree that I’m committed to. This is a very specific distinction between my campaign and the campaign of others, and between the status quo and what I hope to promote as the next governor.

How do you fund something that ambitious?

It’s a question of priority. We did [universal] preschool in the middle of a recession as mayor. I did universal healthcare in the middle of a recession as mayor.

So you’re advocating a bottom-up approach?

It’s the only way to address these issues. Otherwise, I’m just giving you platitudes, I’m just giving you political speak, I’m saying nothing meaningful, because all I would be offering is a strategy to fail more efficiently. And that’s, unfortunately, what we’re doing. And, you know, you just have to—there has to be a recognition and a reconciliation of the failure in our society to substantively address the importance of those critical early years.

You garner a lot of support from the tech sector, and you’ve championed the tech industry as a way to solve some of the inequalities we’re grappling with. But in many ways, Silicon Valley has exacerbated these social ills. As governor, how would you hold the industry accountable to upholding its end of the social contract?

One of my closest friends, the godfather of my firstborn, Marc Benioff [CEO of Salesforce], is a shining example of someone who gets it and gets it done. Follow his example. He’s been an unbelievable leader. He’s walked his talk, on gender pay and pay equity and environmental stewardship. He just announced what they’re doing with the Salesforce Tower in terms of meeting LEED Platinum levels, and the incredible water-efficiency proposals that he’s advancing. My point being that on issue after issue, on homelessness, philanthropy contribution, on what businesses can do in real time—not waiting until a massive amount of wealth is concentrated and then at the end of your life you redistribute it—he has marked, I think, the type of example that others should follow.

Giving while living.

Yeah, and also, you know, amplifying the workforce to do the same individually—not just as an institution. It’s a way of saying this: Look, I’m very close, as you know, with a lot of leaders in the community, and there’s an empathy gap, and that needs to be closed, and I’m committed to working in the valley to address those issues. I’d like to see the kind of ingenuity, the entrepreneurial spirit put to address the issues of social mobility as it is for pushing out products and new iterations of releases.

And to see them repatriate their taxes?

Well, it’s also an opportunity—don’t think for a second that when I read Tim Cook’s announcement [to repatriate Apple’s overseas profits because of the GOP tax measure] that I didn’t think of many things that he could be doing in the state of California with those dollars to address those issues.

By the way, one of the big ways is to deal with the housing crisis in this region. That’s an issue that should immediately galvanize the tech community, particularly when it comes to the missing middle, to workforce housing. We’ve got a $4 billion housing bond that’s on the ballot, but only $300 million is for people earning 60 to 120 percent of [the median income]. So there’s an opportunity to reach out to the corporate sector and address some revolving loans to make up for the gaps in financing, to make up for the gap in workforce housing. I think there’s a tremendous opportunity there to do this at scale—because with what we’re talking about, you can’t play in the margins, you can’t play small ball on affordability. And that’s something I really look forward to engaging with the community on.

In that same vein, how do you plan to make sure local governments are building their share of affordable housing?

They need to be held to account. In our housing plan, we want to assign sanctions for those who aren’t meeting their housing element. We actually want to be punitive. You’ve got to be tough.

How? By withholding transit dollars. It’s an amazing part of our proposal that no one has yet seemingly read. Because if they had read it, they would be critical.

I know the Metropolitan Transportation Commission has talked about that for a long time

Thank you. Yes, and we reference the MTC’s work in our plan. So we’re there. I was inspired by that, in fact. You’re the first person I’ve talked to who’s known that.

I interview a lot of wonky people about this kind of thing.

That’s great.

Would you sign a bill to repeal Costa- Hawkins [the 1995 state law which limits locally written rent-control ordinances]?

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I would promote amendments to Costa-Hawkins. I don’t know that I would come out with an outright repeal. I think the consequences of that could be pronounced, particularly on housing production and construction. I think it could have a chilling effect.

That said, I take a back seat to no one on my strong support for rental protections, eviction protections, [the owner move-in] Ellis Act—you couldn’t be mayor of San Francisco unless you were raising the bar on those issues. I think there’s a real deal to be made with the advocates of that repeal, and some of the larger organizations, from the realtors and the [California] Apartment Association. So I would encourage that.

Let’s talk about cannabis. One of the complaints we’re hearing from consumers is about the high cost of compliance, the high cost of regulation under Proposition 64, which appears to be prompting people to turn back to the black market. What do you think the state can do to strike the right regulatory balance here, to prevent illegal sales and to keep the industry above board?

Look, I was the principal proponent, principal author of cannabis legalization. I spent three years organizing an effort to get it on the ballot, and to get it passed, and I feel, as a consequence, a great sense of responsibility to make sure it’s done right.

I made this point on Election Day, but I’ll repeat it: Legalization is not an act that occurred on Election Day, November last year. It’s a process that will unfold over a course of years, and that’s why you’ve got to be open to argument, interested in the evidence, those kinds of concerns, and iterative in terms of those applications to the rules. As you know, in the initiative we allowed for a simple majority—or a modest majority, forgive me—to amend so we don’t have to go back in front of the voters. So we have the ability to address these issues in a way that won’t allow them to fester.

I’m worried about the small growers—absolutely, unequivocally. I’m worried about the black market being stubborn and persistent because of the regulatory environment, and I want to be in tune and in touch with that and address those issues in real time.

Speaking of which, can you comment on the lawsuit against the California Department of Food and Agriculture, which came after the agency lifted acreage limits designed to protect small growers? There’s a concern that the rescission of the limit will discourage small-time operators from even complying with the new regulations. Do you know why that acreage limit was lifted in the first place and do you think it was justified?

Well, the governor took the spirit of what he believed was Proposition 64, and that was his framework for the first application of the rulemaking. But I completely appreciate the concern, because the spirit of what we were trying to achieve with the five-year prioritization was to protect those farmers.

I went up there personally, in Humboldt, and made that case to everybody there. So I feel a great sense of responsibility to have the backs of those folks, and I’m equally concerned. Again, it’s one of those instances where there’s only so much—well, I’m not the governor. I’m not making excuses, by the way, but respecting what the Legislature and the governor just did. I can assure you that at this time next year there will be some amendments and adjustments.

So do you disagree with the CDFA’s interpretation?

I get the spirit of it, I see the argument. God, I am so black and white in so many ways—because I am the guy who said yes to legalization, marry gays, go after the NRA, etc. On this, though, there are legitimate arguments from both perspectives. I want in real time to see the evidence of what actually occurs on the ground—not what people are asserting, not what people are suggesting. I want to actually see what happens over the next few months when the dust settles. And I will be very, very sensitive to those facts on the ground and the reality of the situation, not the promoted concerns.

On clean energy, you said, “It’s a point of pride and a point of principle for the next governor to change the bar.” In what ways would you raise that bar and turn Gov. Brown’s memoranda of understanding on these issues into actionable steps?

If the governor doesn’t sign a bill to get to 100 percent [clean energy] by 2045, then I will. I want to eliminate diesel by 2030. We have to move forward with regionalizing our grid. We’ve got to focus on storage enhancements. I want to double all local efforts.

Look, I’m the guy who did the plastic-bag ban, I was the one that presided over a city with the first composting requirements in the U.S. and the highest green building standards in the country. San Francisco was the national leader in low carbon green growth. Every year San Francisco is being called out as one of the greenest cities in the United States—if not literally the greenest. Portland, Ore., stubbornly, is right there with us. I’m passionate about these issues. Picking up where Gov. Brown left off is very exciting to me and enlivening, and so this is an area where no one has to convince me to maintain our leadership internationally, not just nationally.

You mentioned in your speech earlier that it’s important to put out a positive, alternative narrative to the Trump administration. What would that “positive, alternative narrative” look like in concrete terms over the coming few years?

All of the above. Everything we just said. From affordability, to healthcare, to the environment, to the issues of promoting our values and the diversity. The entire conversation is framed in terms of what we export that’s so uniquely California. We’re the innovation capital of the world, entrepreneurialism is running through our veins, research and development, diversity is celebrated not tolerated, environmental stewardship,
issues associated with healthcare and taking some more aggressive and bold approaches to
addressing the needs of our uninsured—all of these areas that I think would provide ample evidence of California’s dominance in terms of mind-share, in terms of economic growth, in terms of advancing our agenda for the future.

Stop It Now

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To the Sonoma County Board of Supervisors: You have the power to end the serial violence that has rained down on the Lopez family for four and a half years.

First, their son was needlessly killed by Sheriff’s Deputy Erick Gelhaus. Second, District Attorney Jill Ravitch perpetuated a fraud on that family and the citizens of this county by hiring an “independent” investigator, William Lewinski, who she knew always found in favor of law enforcement.

Then, there was the demonizing of the Latino community, when its young people, including Andy’s friends, protested.

There was the return of Gelhaus to the streets.

There was the smearing of Lopez’s son’s memory and character by the sheriff’s office.

There was your refusal, when creating a task force, to take a moral stand. You were content to hide behind your legal obligations and restrictions.

Even the park, which the community happily accepts, is bittersweet, built as it is on two decades of foot dragging and over the body of a young boy.

And now there is the long slog of a lawsuit, with your multiple attempts to have it dismissed, despite deposition testimony that makes it clearer and clearer that Andy did not have to die, that he should be alive and celebrating with us when the park opens on his birthday this June.

You can stop this onslaught of violence against the Lopez family right now. You can turn to your attorney and the sheriff’s office and say, “No, it stops now.” You can manifest some of your claimed compassion and empathy and say, “We’re settling this case.” Attorneys are trained to ignore the harm they so often create. You are under no such obligation. You can say, “We refuse to continue inflicting pain on the Lopez family. We want this case settled.”

Please, do it today.

Susan Lamont is a member of the Police Brutality Coalition Sonoma County.

Open Mic is a weekly feature in the ‘Bohemian.’ We welcome your contribution. To have your topical essay of 350 words considered for publication, write op*****@******an.com.

Letters to the Editor: February 14, 2018

Dreamers
Are Americans

In my view, DACA recipients are Americans. Many were brought here quite young, before grade school. All their lives they’ve been American, educated and steeped in our American culture. Their functional language is English, many hold degrees, and a vast majority are employed and lead productive lives.

It wasn’t their decision to come here. They’ve played by the rules since they’ve been here, they pose no threat to anyone, and they’ve become an integral part of the workforce. They are every bit American in every sense of what that means as everyone else. Do we want to boot close to a million such people from this country, people that we grew up with, went to school with, work with and live next door to?

What is their crime that they should be deported, ripped from their families, friends and the only lives they’ve ever known? This is flat-out heartless cruelty compounded with rank stupidity.

It smacks of the darkest days in Europe before WWII. This is Trump’s vision of “America first”—racist and xenophobic, and it’s echoed by a third of the voting public.

We’re led by people who promulgate hatred and fear. These are dangerous times.

Sonoma

What’s in a Name?

Thank you so much for Dani Burlison’s article, “Triggered” (Feb. 7). As a psychotherapist and someone who has worked extensively with people who have experienced sexual assault and abuse, I observe how heightened media coverage of these topics is hard on those who have open wounds. I hope more seek help as a result of your article, and that more men join the movement toward a more equal society

I do want to point out some language that was hurtful, though I’m sure unintentional. When you name “women and transgender women,” the implication is that transgender women aren’t women. They are—that’s the point. In the future, you could just say “women,” or if you have a reason to specify trans women, you might try “women, including transgender women” or “cis-women (non-trans women) and transgender women.”

If anyone is interested in understanding more about transgender people, there is a conference coming up in April in Santa Rosa for non-trans people to learn how to empathize with, welcome and support trans people. Call 707.829.8293 if interested.

Sebastopol

Editor’s Note: Dani Burlison did use the term “cis” in her story, but the word was edited out in an attempt at clarity. Thank for you bringing the issue to light.

Write to us at le*****@******an.com.

Out of the Garage

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Update: Danny James has canceled his upcoming show in West Marin on Feb. 17 due to family emergency. Danny Vitali and DJ Sam Swig will still perform.

Born and raised in Oakland, musician and songwriter Danny James has always gone about making old-school music that pushes modern-day boundaries.

From his proto-punk origins to his current ’70s-inspired glam-rock project, James’ voice stands out in the crowded Bay Area scene for his explosive musical presence and energetic arrangement of psychedelic-pop pastiches.

James first turned heads locally in the late 1990s with garage punk band the Cuts. Through a string of well-received albums, the Cuts dialed the clock back to the heyday of acts like the Stooges, erupting onstage with hard-worn angst.

After the Cuts disbanded in 2006, James spent several years looking to reinvent his sound, and ultimately landed back in the past with an R&B and funk aesthetic inspired by Bay Area icons like Sly and the Family Stone.

In 2013, James released his debut album, PEAR, under his own name as a cassette on Burger Records. Recently reissued, PEAR is an epically brazen master class in the last 50 years of rock ‘n’ roll. Some songs soar with psyche-rock acidity, some strut with synthesized electro-pop wizardry and others seem to spin like a disco ball, illuminating the unending dance party that goes on in James’ head.

War Is Swell

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World War II didn’t seem like ancient history in 1949 when South Pacific made its Broadway premiere. Sadly, its warnings of the damage bigotry and prejudice can do aren’t ancient history now as it plays at the Spreckels Performing Arts Center.

Based on James Michener’s Pulitzer Prize–winning Tales of the South Pacific, Rodgers and Hammerstein, with Joshua Logan, took a couple of the stories, softened some of the characters and created an immensely popular musical tale of wartime love.

The play is set on two islands in the South Pacific during the war and centers on a pair of love stories. Navy nurse Nellie Forbush (Heather Buck) finds herself falling in love with French expatriate plantation owner Emile de Becque (William O’Neill).
M. de Becque has a mysterious past, which doesn’t seem to bother Nellie too much. Well, at least not as much as the fact that he has biracial children born of a youthful relationship with a Polynesian girl.

Meanwhile, newly arrived Lt. Joe Cable (James Raasch) flips head over heels (in what seems like record time, even for a Broadway musical) for local girl Liat (Maya Babow). Liat’s mother, Bloody Mary (Elsa Fulton), is anxious to marry her off. Joe, however, just can’t imagine bringing her back to his Philadelphia family. Nellie and Joe end their relationships. Emile and Joe head off on a dangerous military mission, but will love be the ultimate casualty?

Classic songs like “There Is Nothing Like a Dame,” “I’m Gonna Wash That Man Right Outa My Hair,” the enchanting “Bali Ha’i” and the beautiful “Some Enchanted Evening” fill out the story, with the daring-for-1949 “You’ve Got to Be Carefully Taught” driving home the source of people’s prejudices.

Musical director Nancy Hayashibara and her 11-piece orchestra deliver the lush score, and Buck and O’Neill are in excellent voice and character with O’Neill’s operatic training put to good use here. Nice comedic support comes from William Thompson as Seabee entrepreneur Luther Billis and Jeff Coté as harried Captain Brackett. Elsa Fulton steals every scene in which Bloody Mary appears. Directors Jim Coleman and Sheri Lee Miller keep things moving at a good pace throughout the two-hour, 45-minute running time, but there are some flat spots.

Don’t dive too deeply in the waters and you’ll find yourself enjoying the music and appreciating the message of South Pacific.

Rating (out of 5): ★★★½

Peace and Pot

Tall and rangy and bursting with energy, military veteran Christopher Roe has a bit of the Abe Lincoln look about him. But Lincoln never had the opportunity to enjoy the therapeutic value of cannabidiol.

I met up with the Santa Rosa resident at the Marlow Road outpost of Mary’s Pizza Shack to talk about his relentlessly upbeat push to get cannabidiol (CBD) vape pens and other delivery systems into the hands of U.S. military veterans.

Roe, 57, served six years in the military during the peacetime years of 1978 through 1986 and, like Lincoln before him, is committed to raising an army—a big army, a really huge army—drawn from the millions of American veterans now on the homefront, some struggling more than others from war-borne trauma.

His goal: to free cannabis from the shackles of a federal scheduling policy which holds that the plant has no medical use—and use it to help vets heal.

Through his nonprofit organization, the Veterans Cannabis Advocacy Group, Roe is on a mission to bring hope and healing to as many veterans as he can. Part of this involves applying firm but friendly pressure on a Department of Veterans Affairs—which he likens to a lumbering oil tanker wallowing in familiar waters—that has yet to embrace CBD as legit therapy.

Roe has been using CBD for various medical issues, he says, after years during which he was “never able to find the right medicine.” He had a revelation about his path forward, he says, at the Emerald Cup in Santa Rosa in 2016 when he saw a young veteran with a CBD vaporizer take a couple of puffs and totally mellow out.

Roe’s mother, who lives in Menlo Park, is a retired nurse who helped start methadone programs, and his brother, Michael, served in Vietnam and passed away just a year ago. “Vietnam totally fragmented him,” Roe says. “He was never the same after it.”

Roe is grounded in science and a passion for peace, and offers a “moonshot” of his own when he throws down unabashedly for a world without weapons, and invokes Elon Musk and SpaceX with a sweep of his arms: “Send it all to Mars,” he says—and send all the toxic pharma that’s pumped into vets, too.

In the meantime, Roe has gotten himself a marijuana micro-business license from the state and plans over the next year to push out into the American veteran community and offer CBD delivery systems at a discount.

“Seventy to 80 percent of vets want this,” he says.

Made with Love

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It wasn’t Valentine’s Day when Tita de la Garza prepared turkey mole. Were Cupid running the show, that meal would have been for her and Pedro, who loved Tita as much as she loved him.

Tita, the heroine of Laura Esquivel’s 1992 novel Like Water for Chocolate, was denied the opportunity to marry by her domineering mother. Instead, she made her love in the kitchen, and the people she fed had a way of responding emotionally to her cooking. Tita’s turkey mole recipe was no different.

To help you get in the mood for Valentine’s Day, here is an extrapolated version of Tita’s mole.

Ingredients

1/2 c. almonds

1/2 c. walnuts

1/2 c. sesame seeds (raw or toasted)

1/2 c. pumpkin seeds (raw or toasted)

8 dried red chile pods, as many varieties as you like (pasilla, ancho, poblano, guajillo, etc.)

2 tsp. coriander seeds

2 anise pods

2 tsp. black peppercorns

4 inches cinnamon stick

4 tbsp. chocolate powder, or substitute nibs in other form

5 cloves garlic, chopped

1 onion chopped

1 tortilla or old piece of bread

olive oil, butter

Plus:

1 turkey, or turkey parts

3 chopped carrots

2 celery stalks

1 onion

Preparation

Bake turkey at 350 degrees until you can pull the bones out once it cools. Set the meat aside, and put the bones and skin in a pot of water, along with carrots, chopped celery and an onion, cut in half. Simmer for at least one hour.

Clean the dried chiles, removing the stems, seeds and membranes.

With a heavy pan on low, add the almonds and pecans, and slowly brown—so slowly that you can almost forget about them while you attend to a second pan, on medium heat, to which you add the coriander, black pepper, anise, cinnamon and chile seeds. Stir often until they start to brown and the coriander seeds pop. Remove the spices from the pan and add the cleaned chile, torn into inch-size pieces. Turn the pan down and lightly toast the chiles.

When the nuts begin to brown, add the sesame and pumpkin seeds. When the sesame seeds start to brown, turn off the heat and let cool.

Gather the nuts, spices, seeds and chile into a stone mortar and pestle, or a food processor. Add the chocolate, and let it rip. When the mole gets too thick, add turkey stock until the mole is the consistency of a milkshake.

Add oil and butter to one of the pans and sauté garlic and onion, along with a pound or so of turkey meat and a crumbled roll or tortilla. Add broth as necessary to prevent burning. When the onion is translucent, add a half cup of mole and turkey stock, stirring together, and cover. Add more mole and stock if necessary. Season with salt.

Tita’s secret ingredient, which she shares with a guest who asks for her mole recipe: “The secret is to make it with love.”

Gap Year

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Approved in December and effective Jan. 8, the Petaluma Gap is the North Bay’s newest American Viticultural Area (AVA). The question now is, will wineries add this rookie appellation to their labels rather than sticking with the tried-and-true Sonoma Coast AVA, out of which it was carved?

“We will do so with pretty much every wine we can,” says Tom Gendall, associate winemaker at Cline Family Cellars. Perhaps best known for its Zinfandel and Rhône-style blends, Cline also makes cooler climate varietals from estate vineyards in Carneros and the southern Sonoma Coast, where the influence of ocean breeze and fog during grape ripening contributes to the quality of wine for which the Petaluma Gap is known. The key to the Gap is that its vineyards are first in line to get blasted by that wind and fog.

According to Gendall, who completed wine studies in New Zealand and has worked with Gap vineyards for seven years, that means the “cool Carneros” is actually significantly warmer. At harvest, “Carneros is anywhere from to two to four weeks earlier than Petaluma Gap,” Gendall says. “And that translates to style.”

Generally speaking, the style also contrasts to Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley. “Russian River is very big and opulent, whereas I find Petaluma Gap has more restraint, more tannin, more mineral flavor and earthiness with that longer hang time,” says Gendall. While the fruit may not be as bright, it’s infused with notes of char, bramble and forest floor. “I definitely find that I prefer that extra characteristic—it’s still got that fruit there, but it’s got that extra complexity.”

Cline’s 2016 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($20) fits that description well, cloaking its fruit under earthy, woodsy spice, with ginger, coriander and clove suggesting a mulled wine character—but without the “cooked” note. Velour-textured tannins mark a satisfying, quite dry finish. This is a good value for Pinot Noir, which is grown on 75 percent of the new AVA’s 4,000 vineyard acres.

Notably, Chardonnay is neck and neck with Syrah for second place, at 13 percent vs. 12 percent of grapes grown in the AVA, respectively, while Cline’s 2017 Sonoma Coast Pinot Gris ($15) hails from the paltry 1 percent of “other” grape varieties grown there. This quite young wine shows young wine aromatics of white grape press cake, a sort of nutty mélange of unsalted peanuts and white table grape crushed on Melba toast. Because it’s a fruity yet saline refresher without apparent barrel age, I’d rather call it a “Pinot Grigio”—but, like the Gap or the Coast, they’re also free to call it either way.

Look for Cline’s upcoming single vineyard series wines from the Petaluma Gap.

Break It Down

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The blues saved the Rev. Shawn Amos. Before he became “the Reverend,” the Los Angeles–based Amos was an Americana folk artist, but he walked away from the microphone for nearly a decade after releasing a gut-wrenching tribute to his mother, titled Thank you Shirl-ee May, in 2005.

“It was a brutal album to make. It was me publicly grieving in real time,” says Amos, whose mother committed suicide in 2003. “It took it out of me, so I stopped making music.”

In 2013, he returned to the stage with a new outlook as the Rev. Shawn Amos and started playing a blend of stripped-down blues, rock, roots and soul.

“‘The Reverend’ was born out of me rediscovering the blues and rediscovering playing that music,” Amos says. “I didn’t really think of performing music as something that could be joyful, cathartic or entertaining, and the blues introduced me to the idea of that.”

This month, Amos releases his new album, The Reverend Shawn Amos Breaks It Down, which was inspired by politics as much as personal changes in his life throughout the last year. “This wasn’t the album I was intending to make,” he says.

Rather than the Chicago-style blues of his previous two albums, the new record is connected to Civil Rights–era songs that Amos brings into the modern era.

“The album is about 21st-century freedom songs, music that’s meant to bring us together and remind us about our humanity,” Amos says. “That’s why I love the music of the ’60s and ’70s: it was used primarily to provide sustenance when times are hard and remind us of what we have to gain when we come together.”

The Reverend Shawn Amos Breaks It Down includes seven original songs and three inspired covers, and centers on the three-track “Freedom Suite.” The suite comprises a stirring a cappella version of the traditional “Uncle Tom’s Prayer,” the introspectively groovy “Does My Life Matter,” that gives educator and author Booker T. Washington co-writing credit, and the Gospel-choir led “(We’ve Got to) Come Together.”

While Amos didn’t exactly
plan on the album coming out the same day he plays Petaluma, he’s happy to unveil these songs in the North Bay.

“I love Northern California, and Petaluma in particular,” Amos says. “I hope people come ready to dance, hold hands, celebrate, and get some strength to keep fighting.”

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