La Toque, Napa
Ask 10 people how to pronounce โtoque,โ and youโll get as many answers as there are pleats in a chefโs hat. For the record, it rhymes with โoakโโthe MerriamโWebster entry lists pronunciations *\หtลk* and *\หtoสk*, while the Cambridge dictionary gives the British tษสk and American toสk. However you say it, a toque blanche (French for โwhite hatโ) is the towering, pleated crown thatโs to chefs what a tiara is to a monarch: an emblem of authority, hygiene and savoirโfaire.
The word toque itself has Arabic roots meaning simply โhat,โ and it became fashionable in France during the 1800s when legendary chef MarieโAntoine Carรชme introduced a white, flatโtopped toque as part of his crisp uniform. Carรชme chose white to signal cleanliness and professionalism, and the hatโs height soon denoted rankโthe taller the toque, the higher the kitchen hierarchy.
A persistent culinary myth suggests that the 100 pleats represented 100 ways to cook an egg, reminding apprentices to keep scrambling until they reach mastery. In practice, the hat kept hair and sweat out of the soup and provided ventilationโlofty form meeting utilitarian function.
Fastโforward a few centuries, and Napa Valleyโs La Toque restaurant embraces this history with panache. Chef/owner Ken Frank founded the first incarnation in Los Angeles in 1979 and moved it to Napa in 1998; today, it sits in the Westin Verasa hotel, where Frank still leads the kitchen. The restaurant held a Michelin star for 14 consecutive years through 2021, and its 2,300โselection wine cellar received Wine Spectatorโs Grand Award. North Bay Bohemian readers frequently vote Frank as Best Chef, and many locals consider La Toque the finest dining room in town.
Naming a restaurant after the toque is inspired marketing. It hints at classical technique while inviting playful wordplayโdiners โtip their hatโ to a kitchen that knows how to top itself. โ Weeklys Staff
La Toque, 314 McKinstry St., Napa. 707.257.5157. latoque.com.












