There was a time when, for the price of a nickel, diners could participate in a uniquely American food phenom.
The Automat anticipated both the worlds of fast food and “self-serve,” became a social institution, then vanished into obscurity.
Founded by entrepreneurs Joseph Horn and Frank Hardart in the late 1880s, their restaurant concept was novel in more ways than one. Patrons at Horn & Hardart literally inserted nickels into slots and small windows opened, revealing their selection. But more significantly, the chain enabled an egalitarianism that defied the mores of its time. When many restaurateurs were racist, sexist and xenophobic, Horn and Hardart’s venture fed millions of New Yorkers and Philadelphians of all backgrounds, eventually in 100 different locations and for more than a centuryโone nickel at a time.
Filmmaker Lisa Hurwitz admirably captures this forgotten cultural moment in her whimsical and edifying documentary, The Automat, which serves up an extra helping of talking heads whose lives were touched by this nutritious nickelodeon. Throughout, anecdotes and analyses come in tasty, bite-sized portions from such luminaries as filmmaker Mel Brooks, Starbucks founder Howard Schultz and the late Supreme Court Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg.
Hurwitz’s deep dive into the history of the Automat was inspired, in part, by a Ph.D. dissertation she read while in college. Entitled “Trapped Behind the Automat: Technological Systems and the American Restaurant, 1902-1991,” the work was written by Dr. Alec Shuldiner, who now lives in Fairfax and is co-producer of the film and one of its key interviewees.
“The Automat may have served via a machine, but the experience of dining in one was very social,” Shuldiner said in a recent email.
Given our contemporary era’s advances in AI and automation (not to mention a pandemic-born wariness of other people handling our food), it seems the Automat is primed to return (the last one shuttered in the early โ90s). Shuldiner disagrees.
“Recent attempts to use the Automat technology to vend foodโฆ hardly even offer dining space and are focused on limiting all forms of human interaction,” said Shuldiner. “This reduces the Automat to really just another vending machine.”
He points out that elements of the Automat live on in chains like Starbucks, “where social mixing is common.” This reminds that “social mixing” is also key to the theatrical movie-going experience, which, for now, is the only way to see The Automat, and one of the best ways you could spend your nickels in the Bay Area.
โThe Automatโ plays at Christopher B. Smith Rafael Film Center, San Rafael; Summerfield Cinemas, Santa Rosa; Landmarkโs Albany Twin, Albany; Vogue Theatre, San Francisco. Check theater listings for times and tickets.
Be careful what you wish for when wishing for local ownership of local media. The Press Democrat (PD) is a case in point. If the owners are part of the good old boy network and have committed fraud, violated the Glass-Steagall Act or engaged in shenanigans that the Bohemianโs Will Carruthers has covered, be prepared for some pretty nasty and biased reporting.
I keep thinking that they canโt go any lower, but they manage! Three recent examples:
First, the PD played up a Facebook post by Jerry Threet, former director of IOLERO, which questioned whether Eddie Engram, the status quoโs choice for sheriff, would really represent the Black community. After all, Engram doesnโt believe that the SCSO has exhibited any bias against people of color. Sheriff Essick was allowed to expound at length on the subject. Then the PDโs editorial staff got in on the act and actually likened Threetโs speech to that of Trumpโs. The local NAACP wrote a rebuttal in defense of Threet. The PD refused to print it. People wrote letters defending Threet. Refused again. And now Engram has been allowed to level the charge in his own editorial.
Second, the community advisory council of IOLERO voted to censure Sheriff Essick for using government social media to support a candidate, the aforementioned Engram. The PD has refused to report on it.
Third, carrying water for the โbusiness communityโ it serves, the PD has had multiple long articles about Dr. Sundari Mase and her DUIโs. The executive editor, Rick Green, has even gone so far as to defend, both in the paper and on radio, putting three reporters on the issue and blowing it all out of proportion. It is no secret that said โbusiness communityโ would like to see an end to Mase, who dared to put human lives over money. Iโm sure that it was with a heavy heart that Mase caved to pressure from the board of supervisors to loosen the rules that resulted in a surge and more deaths.
It should be noted that Mase told her supervisor, Barbie Robinson, and the countyโs legal department about the DUI and no one chose to make an issue of it, but the rich guys want blood and the county usually does what the rich guys want.
Thank heavens for the Bohemian and its investigative reporters. The Press Democrat should be ashamed, but we live in The Age of Shamelessness.
Rather than let the Covid-19 pandemic slow them down in 2020, the three founders of Sebastopolโs popular fine dining restaurant Gravenstein Grill pivoted dramatically.
Pandemic-related shut-downs forced them to put their farm-to-table restaurant on hold. So the three partners โ Brandon Parkhurst, Owen Barrett, and executive chef Bob Simontacchi โ introduced two fast-casual pop-up concepts: Pleasant Hills Pies and Sonoma Burger.
The first featured artisanal pizzas, and the latter put quality burgers and hot dogs front and center. Sonoma Burger proved so popular that it became a permanent brick-and-mortar dine-in and carry-out eatery in September 2021, in the space formerly occupied by Giovanniโs Deli in Sebastopol. The 2,000-square-foot eatery has counter seating for 10 people, table seating for 20 and outdoor seating for 16.
The founders havenโt looked back ever since, and now are planning additional family-friendly Sonoma Burger outlets throughout the county.
โWe knew that Gravenstein Grillโs brand of fine dining cuisine didnโt translate very well to everyday takeout,โ Brandon said, reflecting on the inception of the Sonoma Burger. โBut we didnโt want to lay off all our staff, and we wanted to keep cooking.โ
They chose a business model that would allow take-out and delivery of food that Brandon characterized as โsomething we love to eat every dayโ โ comfort food that was minimally processed.
They wanted to offer approachable, everyday food that traveled well, in contrast to the aesthetic of the precisely plated and upscale offerings at Gravenstein Grill. They created a simple menu of smash burgers and griddle dogs, sourced, cooked and delivered with the same level of attention to detail and culinary technique that are the hallmarks of the five-year-old Gravenstein Grill, a special occasion and date-night favorite.
Of course, the real selling point of this venture is how the food tastes, which is where chef Simontacchiโs 25-plus yearsโ of experience came into play. Sonoma Burger cooks weighted burgers and dogs (โsmashedโ) on griddles rather than grills. This produces a flavorful crust on the meat for extra and enhanced umami flavor, Brandon explained. Sonoma Burgers sandwiches are smaller than the restaurant โpub styleโ burgers they serve at Gravenstein Grill โ โsomething you could have for lunch,โ Brandon said, pointing out an entry-level Classic Smash Burger is in the $6 range.
The other trappings include the Willie Bird turkey burger, a crispy chicken sandwich, and a house-smoked tempeh burger with vegan barbecue sauce. The sides are equally impressive, with French fries, fried pickles, crispy onion rings as well as a wealth of other pickled goods and house-made sauces, which customers can now buy as standalones, not to mention amazing add-ons like pimento cheese and pickle relish. Check out the rotating selection of seasonally influenced shakes and the locally selected wines from Hook & Ladder Vineyards & Winery, plus brews from the likes of HenHouse Brewing Company and others.
Gravenstein Grill has developed a connection with local farmers and ranchers and makes everything in-house, from pastas and breads to sauces. Likewise, Sonoma Burger follows the same from-scratch cooking philosophy, which includes its buns โ their own take on fluffy Parker House rolls. Sonoma Burger procures meat from Jamie Mickelsonโs Sonoma Mountain Beef Co., obtains produce from Andyโs Produce Market, uses Strauss Family Creamery for its soft-serve ice cream and gets dry goods locally from Cotati Food Service. There is no mass-sourced procurement here, Brandon said.
The tagline for Sonoma Burgers is โA Mindful Burger.โ Brandon explained that the restaurant puts mindfulness into every aspect of the business, right down to the compostable carry-out containers. The restaurateurs give back to the community, too, sponsoring sports leagues; contributing to charities; hiring locals (including high schoolers); and donating to Food for Thought, the nonprofit food bank in Forestville. In fact, because of a direct partnership in which they give the profits of all Willie Bird Turkey Burgers sold at Sonoma Burger directly to Food for Thought, they were able to expand programs like Full Belly, which provides food and nutrition support to pregnant women (and their families) at risk of malnutrition.
Brandon, who lives in Sebastopol, and his fellow founders, who are Petaluma residents, are proud of the bounty of Sonoma County and their connections to area purveyors. In fact, thatโs why they decided to put โSonomaโ in the name of their burger venture. โWe are really proud to be here in Sonoma County,โ he said. โThe products all come from Sonoma County, and we treat them with care. We like to showcase the amazing produce, meat and dairy we have available to us by creating a product that everyone from top to bottom is proud of. Weโd like Sonoma County to be as proud of having us here as we are to be a part of the amazing community.โ
While Sonoma Burger was voted best carry out in Sonoma County, itโs also got a loyal local dine-in crowd. Some diners are popping in on the way home from little league games while others have claimed a corner for a little hanging out.
โWe feel like weโre friends with everyone in the neighborhood,โ Brandon said.
Look for the expansion of Sonoma Burger to a handful of other Sonoma County outposts, such as Windsor, Petaluma, Rohnert Park, Cotati, Kenwood or Sonoma beginning later this year.
There was a time when, for the price of a nickel, diners could participate in a uniquely American food phenom.
The Automat anticipated both the worlds of fast food and "self-serve," became a social institution, then vanished into obscurity.
Founded by entrepreneurs Joseph Horn and Frank Hardart in the late 1880s, their restaurant concept was novel in more ways than one....
Be careful what you wish for when wishing for local ownership of local media. The Press Democrat (PD) is a case in point. If the owners are part of the good old boy network and have committed fraud, violated the Glass-Steagall Act or engaged in shenanigans that the Bohemianโs Will Carruthers has covered, be prepared for some pretty nasty...
Rather than let the Covid-19 pandemic slow them down in 2020, the three founders of Sebastopolโs popular fine dining restaurant Gravenstein Grill pivoted dramatically.
Pandemic-related shut-downs forced them to put their farm-to-table restaurant on hold. So the three partners โ Brandon Parkhurst, Owen Barrett, and executive chef Bob Simontacchi โ introduced two fast-casual pop-up concepts: Pleasant Hills Pies and Sonoma...
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