Mexico

Paradise Found


Christina Waters

The High and the Flighty: A forest of chaise lounges and a soothing pool form the bedrock of Camino Real’s sybaritic escape scenario in Puerto Vallarta.

Zihuatanejo’s Hotel Villa del Sol and Puerto Vallarta’s Camino Real are two ways of saying “tropical paradise” in fluent Mexican

By Christina Waters

For over a decade now, we’ve fled winter’s chill by heading south into the heart of Mexico’s caressing tropical warmth. Almost by accident, we found two resort sanctuaries, each occupying sheltered beaches 1,500 miles south of where we live–the Camino Real south of Puerto Vallarta and Hotel Villa del Sol on Zihuatanejo’s Playa La Ropa.

Each of these impeccable getaway retreats offers outstanding beaches of soft, white sand, landscapes of fragrant flowers, and body-surfable waves of clear, warm water. At each, jungles of banana and coconut palms grow right down to the edge of the water and regional dining is only a few feet down a hibiscus-perfumed path. The two resorts are in many other ways as radically distinct as they are seductive.

Wedged into an idyllic pocket of the Bay of Banderas, between the town of Puerto Vallarta and Mismoloya beach–still famous as the cinematic location for Night of the Iguana–the gleaming whiteness of the Camino Real emerges from plantings of palms and a riot of bougainvillea. We love this place for lots of reasons, most of which involve sun, water, tequila and prawns.

MetroActive Goes Trippin’ . . .

Don’t Miss Saigon: Playing the Pacific Rim by bike requires stamina and good wheels.

Cruising Oblivion: Life aboard a cruise ship is a lesson in scheduling and snoozing.

On the Road: Traveling doesn’t have to mean planes and trains. Automobiles and thumbs can get you pretty far.

Romancing the Romanesque: Scouring France in search Crusader ruins.

An Idiot’s Guide to the Universe: How to keep Europeans from thinking you’re completely hopeless.

Queer Across the World: Transcending homophobia in search of another buck.

Packing Heat: Paranoid or not, it’s always a good idea to keep an eye out for danger when you travel.

Virtual World: Armchair travelers can feed their wanderlust on the web.

It’s a sumptuous layout, with ubiquitous blue-glazed tilework and polished teak decks jutting out to capture the last rays of sunset. Every spacious room seems practically suspended over the beach itself, and there’s cable TV in every room. A new multi-story addition (tastefully hugging the cliffs on one side of the perfect private beach) offers the corporate meeting rooms and retreat facilities crucial to staying competitive in the business/leisure market.

Once sophisticated enough in tone that you wanted to make sure you’d packed a jacket and maybe a nice linen dress for la hora feliz, the Camino Real increasingly attracts a more casual, 30- to 40-year-old crowd, many with families.

Amberjack in a Banana Leaf

La Perla, the hotel’s upscale restaurant, specializes in gourmet Mexican dining. Many of its spectacular creations utilize ancient recipes and regional exotica like the smoky-flavored huitlacoche corn fungus that’s tucked into delicate crepes tied with scallions. Breakfast here is served al fresco–terrific egg dishes, spectacular fresh-squeezed juices and acres of ripe fruit–as the sun begins turning the sand shades of pale pink.

We finish up quickly and stake out our favored chaise lounge on the wide terrace between the pool and the ocean. When waves start picking up, we catch a few before diving into the pool to lazily tour all of its undulating nooks and crannies.

You’re never in danger of going thirsty here, thanks to the staff’s strategic sense of timing. Before you can even wish for a giant coconut filled with fresh watermelon, ice and rum, it’s delivered to your chosen turf.

Puerto Vallarta is a charming town to stroll around, and we used to do the Yelapa cruises, back when the remote beaches of this mythical hippie outpost were still clean and hustle-free. But now we park ourselves at Camino Real and stay there for our entire vacation.

However, a newish seafood restaurant just south of downtown PV, Balam, is definitely cause to get up out of that deck chair and put on street clothes. I spent my birthday in January feasting on garlicky prawns in their shells, freshly caught amberjack steamed in a banana leaf, and the house specialty, a fish broth laced with fresh prawn sausages so good we ate it even in 90-degree heat.

Balam’s tortilla chips come with an addictive, fiery black vinegar and garlic salsa, and the beers are served in tiny ice buckets. It’s a destination restaurant that we start dreaming about before we’ve left the airport.

Reservations for the resort are available by calling 800/7-CAMINO.

A Return Trip to Eden

For the ultimate in luxury getaways, we take a three-hour flight to Zihuatanejo–and the incomparable Hotel Villa del Sol. An elegantly rustic hideaway, Villa del Sol is a member of the group of fine small luxury hotels known as the Relais et Chateaux. Small wonder. Poised on arguably the most perfect beach in creation–Playa la Ropa–this place is paradise on a personal scale.

While a multi-storied complex of sun-drenched rooms and suites has been constructed back from the beach to accommodate the resort’s many annual visitors, it’s the 21 original palapa-style suites–clustered like a desert island colony around a series of pools, bars and extravagantly Edenesque plantings–that keep us coming back. Each suite feels like an apartment, with spacious living rooms a few steps down from a sleeping area highlighted by king-sized canopy beds and tiled bathrooms with showers built for two.

It’s exactly 20 paces from our private porch, where as many as four bathing suits–all mine–may be drying at once, past banana trees heavy with ripening fruit to the main terrace. Twenty more steps through a fringe of chaise lounges with individual shade palapas and across powdery sand puts us waist-deep in the pale green water, where we take the first swim of the day at dawn each morning. The air at this hour is almost opalescent pink and already 70 degrees in temperature.

On our first visit here, we created a ritual of greeting the first light each morning at exactly the spot on the beach where the sun rises through the fronds of a neighboring coconut plantation. Chest-deep in the primal waters, we’ve shared the sunrise with the soaring uracas, baby manta rays who show up with the occasional flounder, and schools of transparent nameless fish. This is adventure with all the edges smoothed.

This tropical paradise with no phones, no TV and no worries casts a spell that forces us to unwind and spoil ourselves. Our routine is sensuous and simple. What we do here at Hotel Villa del Sol is snorkel down the far curve of the tiny bay. We then stop at any number of fresh seafood restaurants perched permanently on the sand, their colorful tablecloths rippling in the breezes. The views here abundantly flaunt why this stretch of the globe is called a riviera.

We walk the beach, soaking up its changing light, watching for beautiful fish, collecting the odd shell or rock. We swim in the hotel’s two pools, and find ourselves partial to the one lined in deep blue tile that’s got its own swim-up bar but, even better, is situated right next to Orlando’s bar–the emotional heart and soul of Villa del Sol. Your particular drink order has been memorized and produced almost before you arrive.


Aerial Eyeful: Zihuatanejo’s incomparable Playa La Ropa frames the palms and palapas of Hotel Villa del Sol, an almost-secret hideaway on the Mexican Riviera that welcomes gourmets and sports buffs.

Taking the Warm, Indigo Air

Something fresh from the beautiful bay–sport fish, lobster, snapper, oysters, prawns–will be on tonight’s menu. Given the international tone of the clientele, however, the menu will also include gourmet Mexican dishes and continental fare–some steaks, some pasta, all terrific. Nightfall involves only a slight drop in temperature, so all dinners are taken in the warm, indigo air, listening to the waves.

After a day of swimming and sunning, or exploring the pretty fishing village of Zihuatanejo (Ixtapa is just too glitzy and filled with generic highrise hotels for our taste), our rooms have been tidied back into their original immaculate condition. Fresh flowers appear by the bedside and in the bathroom along with fresh bottles of mineral water. The service is not only impeccable, it’s offered graciously, with a smile.

When we do make day trips to Zihua, it’s usually to have breakfast at the charming Sirena Gorda–the Fat Mermaid–where we can stuff ourselves on fried eggs smothered with poblano chiles, refried beans, ham and local cheese, plus fresh-squeezed juice and coffee, all for $4 per person.

We’re not the only ones who’ve fallen in love with Villa del Sol. So have lots of visitors from California, New York, France, Canada and Italy, who keep turning up every winter to shed their real-world lives and become whoever they want to be for a week or two. I shouldn’t even be telling people about this sybaritic haven, but when you do visit for a winter getaway, bring a book or two, your favorite CDs, some shorts and a linen shirt for dinner, and three bathing suits. The slowed-down, easy-living rhythm of Playa la Ropa will do the rest.

Hotel Villa del Sol–Playa La Ropa, Apdo. Post. 84, Zihuatanejo, Gro. 40880, Mexico; FAX: 743/4-27-58; Phone: 0-11-52-743-4-22-39.

From the April 25-May 1, 1996 issue of Metro Santa Cruz

This page was designed and created by the Boulevards team.
&copy 1996 Metro Publishing and Virtual Valley, Inc.

Gay Travel

0

Queer Skies

By Bruce Mirkin

Gays and lesbians may be some distance from achieving full equality in this country, but there’s no question that the group has evolved by leaps and bounds as a market niche. One of the clearest signs is the growing boom in gay travel services. Queer-oriented resorts, cruises and more have been around for years, of course, but they used to be the province of small, specialty companies. Now the big boys of the travel industry are going after gay dollars.

Jim Boin, owner of Yankee Clipper Travel in San Jose and vice president of the International Gay Travel Association, says gay and lesbian travel opportunities have increased dramatically in recent years. There are some 1,200 members of the IGTA today, up from just 300 in the late ’80s.

Yes indeed, girlfriend, we have arrived. All-homo holidays in the Caribbean, London, ski resorts or just about anywhere you can name are within your grasp, provided you have the disposable income.

MetroActive Goes Trippin’ . . .

Don’t Miss Saigon: Playing the Pacific Rim by bike requires stamina and good wheels.

Cruising Oblivion: Life aboard a cruise ship is a lesson in scheduling and snoozing.

On the Road: Traveling doesn’t have to mean planes and trains. Automobiles and thumbs can get you pretty far.

Southern Sunshine: Paradise found on Mexico’s tropical beaches.

Romancing the Romanesque: Scouring France in search Crusader ruins.

An Idiot’s Guide to the Universe: How to keep Europeans from thinking you’re completely hopeless.

Queer Across the World: Transcending homophobia in search of another buck.

Packing Heat: Paranoid or not, it’s always a good idea to keep an eye out for danger when you travel.

Virtual World: Armchair travelers can feed their wanderlust on the web.

Not everyone finds this prospect appealing, of course. As a Bay Area gay journalist, I go days without significant contact with heterosexuals, so spending a week on a cruise ship surrounded by fellow queers doesn’t exactly rate as special. In fact, sometimes getting out among the hets can be refreshing.

But there are destinations, like Palm Springs, where a gay-oriented tour or resort may be the only way to go. Straight Palm Springs, the town that elected Sonny Bono mayor before sending him (shudder) to Congress, is heavily populated by retired ex-Brentwoodites driving Lincoln Town Cars and wearing designer tennis outfits, even though they almost never play tennis. Right alongside, in the neighboring community of Cathedral City, is a thriving gay community with a multitude of quite appealing gay resorts, restaurants, and nightspots. It’s like a parallel universe, and I sure as hell know which one I’d rather visit.

Sometimes, though, it’s the gay side of the universe that makes me cringe, especially the travel promoters who treat gay men as though we only think with our crotches. Take the 1995 brochure from Atlantis, an outfit that books all-gay vacation packages at various Club Med locations: it’s full of gorgeous young men with perfect bodies, usually clad in skimpy Speedos. No one is over 30, no one has a receding hairline or love handles, and virtually everyone is white. Give me a break.

Fortunately, the trend is away from that sort of hormone-driven promotion. RSVP, the gay cruise line that has now branched out into resort vacations, has mercifully dropped the buffed-boys-in-Speedos emphasis from its new brochures.

But the real news, explains travel agent Brad Hudson of Travel Zone in San Francisco, is the move by mainstream vendors into the gay travel market with “knockout products targeting the gay community: Virgin Vacations taking their London packages and substituting passes to Heaven for a city tour or something like that–giving them a gay identity and marketing them as gay products. Within the past year everybody’s getting on the bandwagon.”

A glance at Virgin’s literature suggests the company has pretty skillfully plugged gay-oriented add-ons into otherwise conventional tour packages, but how good a deal this is remains an open question. A London/Paris vacation, including three days in each city with a high-speed train link via the Channel tunnel, costs $985 (tourist class) with a San Francisco departure on the “straight” package. The gay version, seemingly identical except for an unspecified number of passes to gay clubs, “special discounts at gay-friendly London restaurants,” and a copy of a London gay travel guide, goes for $1,119.

The major gay travel vendors generate some gripes as well, especially around price. “The gay travel products tend to be more expensive for comparable things,” Hudson notes. And unfortunately you can’t always compare prices just by looking at brochures. Major non-gay cruise lines like Carnival discount heavily from their published fares, often as much as 50 percent; what’s in the brochure is what you’re going to pay with RSVP.

The increased cost doesn’t necessarily amount to price gouging in the form of what could be considered a gay travel tax. RSVP, for example, charters the ship from Carnival, which raises the cost. It also books separate gay-focused entertainment for the cruise so you won’t be subjected to, well, the performers you normally get on a cruise. All things considered, it’s not a bad deal.

“Where else can you take a week off and step into a world where you’re the majority instead of the minority?” asks Jim Boin of Yankee Clipper Travel in San Jose.

It’s a good idea to ask lots of questions and make sure you understand all such policies before you book. Of course, taking your time and getting lots of information is always a good policy before booking any expensive vacation. A knowledgeable gay travel agent is a good place to start, but even he or she can’t be expected to tell you everything: some small, popular gay inns won’t pay commissions, so travel agents quite understandably aren’t in a hurry to send you there.

Locally, plenty of travel agents advertise in the gay press, but if you need to locate one, the International Gay Travel Association at 800/448-8550 will gladly provide a list of members.

Another information source worth checking out is Out and About, a gay and lesbian travel newsletter published 10 times a year. Subscriptions are $49 per year. Write to 542 Chapel, New Haven, CT 06511.

There’s also a burgeoning amount of information available online. America Online, for example, has a gay travel forum (keyword “GLCF Travel”) with an array of message boards and a weekly conference. Similar forums are popping up in lots of places.

So take your time and definitely shop around. Me, I’m going to spend my vacation gawking at the hets in Bakersfield.

From the April 25-May 1, 1996 issue of Metro

This page was designed and created by the Boulevards team.
&copy 1996 Metro Publishing and Virtual Valley, Inc.

Travel Safety and Paranoia

0

How to Pack

By Rick Sine

‘Whenever Barbara Brandt travels in her car she takes her Smith & Wesson,” chirps an article by ranking paranoiac Paxton Quigley.

The author of Armed and Female, Quigley teaches thousands of women how to shoot handguns in her seminars with the deadpan title “Women’s Empowerment in the ’90s.” Last but not least, she’s a flack for Smith & Wesson itself.

In April’s issue of Handguns Magazine, Quigley serves up a champagne-bucketful of hints on personal security away from home. Though not aimed exclusively at women, the liberal references to “rapists” make the audience clear: the increasing number of professonal women travelers. A few tips gleaned from Paxton’s lengthy treatment:

When you park at the hotel, make sure you’re giving your keys to an actual hotel employee, instead of a car thief posing as one. Don’t park in a hotel space that has your room number: thieves could track your comings and goings. And check in with a fake name.

Check to make sure that a burglar or rapist doesn’t get into the room posing as room service. (“Some have phony breakfasts for you, others don’t, but the result is the same. As soon as you open the door, he will rush in and overcome you.”)

A “Please Make Up This Room” sign on your door indicates you aren’t around and could invite thieves.

When you leave your room, leave on the light and the TV.

Watch for peepholes behind mirrors in the hotel health club.

When at a high-rise hotel, stay on the third to sixth floor. “The first and second floor are vulnerable to burglars and rapists. Floors above the sixth are not readily accessible to most fire equipment.”

“Be aware that people eavesdrop on airplanes and may target you as someone with valuable corporate information or ties to a wealthy company. Americans traveling overseas tend to be friendly and unintentionally give away personal or sensitive information.”

Don’t pack your pepper-spray canister in your luggage, because air pressure may cause it to leak and run out on your clothes. “If you’re flying, I suggest you buy a canister at your destination point, and if you don’t use it, give it to someone as a present when you leave.” (A delightful gift!)

We here at Metro have compiled a few tips of our own:

If you’re forced to walk alone at night through the city, we suggest posting snipers on the top of buildings along your path. The aerial view allows them to pick off burglars and rapists before they get anywhere near you.

Public bathrooms are notorious for their tendency to attract perverts, snoops and thieves. We suggest that you always hold out until you get to your hotel room, or–if all else fails–wear diapers during long trips.

Groucho glasses are always worth a pocket in your Samsonite. The growing employment of private eyes by spouses makes them especially useful during those romantic outings with your paramour. Like the pepper spray canisters, these also make a great parting gift when you leave for home.

Finally, remember that caution is the best defense. Just because the SWAT team has promised not to shoot, and just because the people on the megaphone say they’ll do their best to ensure your safety, that doesn’t mean it’s safe to leave the house unarmed.

MetroActive Goes Trippin’ . . .

Don’t Miss Saigon: Playing the Pacific Rim by bike requires stamina and good wheels.

Cruising Oblivion: Life aboard a cruise ship is a lesson in scheduling and snoozing.

On the Road: Traveling doesn’t have to mean planes and trains. Automobiles and thumbs can get you pretty far.

Southern Sunshine: Paradise found on Mexico’s tropical beaches.

Romancing the Romanesque: Scouring France in search Crusader ruins.

An Idiot’s Guide to the Universe: How to keep Europeans from thinking you’re completely hopeless.

Queer Across the World: Transcending homophobia in search of another buck.

Packing Heat: Paranoid or not, it’s always a good idea to keep an eye out for danger when you travel.

Virtual World: Armchair travelers can feed their wanderlust on the web.

From the April 25-May 1, 1996 issue of Metro

This page was designed and created by the Boulevards team.
&copy 1996 Metro Publishing and Virtual Valley, Inc.

Tips for the Adventurous

Idiot-Proof Travel Tips

By Christina Waters

The Big Picture
Book big cities in advance. Leave smaller towns and villages for spontaneous decisions. We always have the front and the end of the trip reserved way in advance. Do not attempt to just breeze into a city like Paris without a hotel confirmation in your hot little hand. You need to know that you’ve got a base camp from which to reconnoiter, a place to refuel after that long flight. Once you get into the countryside traveling from town to town by car or rail, you or the nice person at your hotel’s front desk can call a day or two in advance to the next town or hotel where you would like to stay. Unless there’s a convention or feast day (more about this later), you’ll invariably find lodgings in your price range.

Give Good Reception
Make friends with your hotel’s receptionist. Learn this person’s name on the very first day. Make small requests–like finding a map or getting the name of a good restaurant–and then praise/thank/tip them lavishly. They’re yours for the rest of your stay. The person at the front desk can be your ally in maximizing your stay.

Seal of Approval
Tip the housekeeper faithfully. Leave small change on the bedside table. Then you can ask for extra pillows.

Clothes Encounters
Everything you take will wrinkle, so don’t worry about it when you pack. However, it’s true that knits–T-shirts (the kind that fit neatly, not the oversize beer-logo kind), elastic-waist pants and walking shorts, sweaters, one decent dress–really do travel well. Take a pair of jeans, the universally correct attire. If it’s winter, I bring everything in black. In summer, I switch to khaki. Then throw in some bright accessory and you need never think about your dress code again.

Roll With It
Roll-aboard luggage will save your life. It certainly won’t hurt your back, either. Roll-aboards even do well on cobblestones. Invest in one, and take along one soft, nylon bag. More than two pieces of luggage and you’re asking for a world of stress.

Don’t Leave Home Without Them
You must always have with you: plenty of little packages of Kleenex; your favorite antacid, analgesic (I stock ibuprofin), and allergy pills; a bathing suit; presentable shorts; a soft hat (a baseball cap is good); sunscreen; sandals; extra underwear and socks; a Walkman with a few favorite tapes; a notebook.

Walk This Way
Take four pairs of shoes–comfortable shoes–and rotate them, wearing at least two pairs each day.

Hour of the Munch
When you hit a town, immediately locate the nearest epicerie or grocery and load up on bottled water, beer, hard cheese, fruit, bread and wine for the hotel room. You will be so happy you did, since few restaurants are open at 3pm, the universal munchie hour.

Water Rights
Always carry bottled water in your travel bag–you have no idea when you’ll find that little grocery store. To be safe–I do this even in Paris and London–brush your teeth in still water (l’eau minerale sans gas), drink the bubbly (l’eau minerale avec gas or gazeuse). Wherever you’re traveling, make sure you can order bottled water in the appropriate language (e.g., agua mineral sin fizz).

Oh Happy Days
Check ahead for any big regional festivals–Ascension Day literally closed down France for three days on my trip last summer–before you assume that you can visit that cathedral/museum of your choice. You may be competing for space with villagers from the surrounding hills and their entire extended families.

Close Encounters
Everything closes on Sunday, except museums, so plan accordingly. Take that trip to the Louvre or Rodin Museum on the one day you can’t genuflect at some temple of cuisine. Everything closes–even churches and tourist bureaus–between noon and 2pm. There’s a reason. That’s when everybody is enjoying a long, leisurely midday meal. That’s when you should be eating too.

Late Breaking News
Do not be alarmed at the late European dinner hour. Go with the flow, snack in your hotel room to prevent the crankiness that comes with low blood sugar. You will not actually be laughed at if you make a reservation for as early as 7pm, but the action only starts after 8pm. (I’ve seen families with very small children arrive at their tables at 10pm.) In summer, Europe stays light until 10pm, so expect to stay on your feet way into the evening. Even if you get a late start in the morning, you can continue sightseeing up until dinner.

Who’s Vault Is It?
ATMs are really the way to go. If your bank card belongs to the CIRRUS or STAR programs, you can get money pretty easily in cities. Take along some travelers checks, too. And when you change into local currency, always get more money than you think you’ll need. There’s always a fee for each transaction and banking hours are erratic (Ha! is that an understatement) in France.

When in Rome (and Especially Paris)
Even if it’s not your normal habit, stop often at cafes. Order a beer or coffee–it gives you access to good restrooms and lets you sit and check out the local action. During an all-day sightseeing marathon, two cafes in the morning, three in the afternoon is a good rule of thumb. Trust me, with all the walking, you need to stop and rest, regroup, look at maps and just chill out.

Carnet Knowledge
The first time you hit the Metro (the subway, not the newspaper) in Paris, stop at the ticket window and buy a carnet, a batch of 10 tickets. That way you don’t have to stop each time you want to ride the subway and buy new tickets.

Native Ingenuity
When in doubt, order the daily special, plat du jour, always the best, freshest and cheapest lunch/dinner available. Ordering half bottles–dèmi boutaille–of wine (ubiquitous on French menus) lets you sample intriguing, locally made stuff without getting roaring drunk and without breaking your budget. Should you wish to get roaring drunk, of course, there is more than enough wine in Europe to accommodate you. Then call a cab.

Snap Judgments
Go ahead and take snapshots–you’ll absolutely adore having these images for years to come. Don’t be afraid to ask people to take a picture of you in front of your favorite world-famous landmark. Never bypass the chance to climb up a church or castle tower–the view from the top is worth the effort. But don’t for a minute think that you, above all other tourists throughout the ages, will capture the definitive shot of the Eiffel Tower. It’s been done. If you want the best images for your scrapbook, buy postcards as you go. Don’t send them, keep them–or send them to yourself at home.

Make Book on It
Above all, invest in the thin Michelin green guide for major cities, e.g. Paris, Rome, Athens. These guides are terrific, filled with history, architecture, local color and maps, and are light enough to justify packing and hauling all over Europe.

Bon voyage!

MetroActive Goes Trippin’ . . .

Don’t Miss Saigon: Playing the Pacific Rim by bike requires stamina and good wheels.

Cruising Oblivion: Life aboard a cruise ship is a lesson in scheduling and snoozing.

On the Road: Traveling doesn’t have to mean planes and trains. Automobiles and thumbs can get you pretty far.

Southern Sunshine: Paradise found on Mexico’s tropical beaches.

Romancing the Romanesque: Scouring France in search Crusader ruins.

Queer Across the World: Transcending homophobia in search of another buck.

Packing Heat: Paranoid or not, it’s always a good idea to keep an eye out for danger when you travel.

Virtual World: Armchair travelers can feed their wanderlust on the web.

From the April 25-May 1, 1996 issue of Metro Santa Cruz

This page was designed and created by the Boulevards team.
&copy 1996 Metro Publishing and Virtual Valley, Inc.

Web Travel

0

Virtually Everywhere

By Trystan L. Bass

The best travel-related sites on the world wide web cover a wide range of topics, from budget travel to cruises to foreign languages. These sites have good, solid information that travelers can actually use, as opposed to me tons of travel web sites that are pure advertisements. A word of warning — most of these sites are graphics-heavy and will usually require forms-capable web browsers.

City.Net: A comprehensive guide to cities around the world, including links to travel, entertainment, business, government, and community services information. This is a meta-list of useful guides from the cities themselves.

Conde Nast Traveler Online: Billing itself as “a source of worldly, opinionated travel advice,” the Conde Nast online site is a lot like the paper magazine (except no cover price!). Check out the Concierge area where you can find locations and hotels that match your interests. You can also peruse several chat forums and the magazine’s annual readers choice awards.

Cruise Review Library: Personal reviews of a wide variety of cruise ships, all gathered from the rec.travel.cruises Usenet newsgroup. While they are full of personal bias, these reviews give the kind of detail that travel agents never give and can help you choose just the right cruise for you.

Foreign Languages for Travelers: Tutorials on 24 languages, from French and German to Icelandic, Esperanto, and Latin. Concentrates on words and phrases the traveler might commonly encounter, and even has sound files so you can hear how to pronounce the language.

The Internet Guide to Hostelling: If you’re looking for youthful friends, boisterous fun, and low-cost accommodations, hostels may be for you. This web site has a database of over 3,000 hostels around the world. There’s also information on low cost transportation and budget guidebooks, plus a bulletin board where you can find travel companions and ride shares.

Lonely Planet Online: Online version of the popular, Gen-X style travel guides. Has plenty of fresh and feisty information about both major tourist areas as well as lots of places far from the beaten path (even Easter Island and Timbuktu). Also, their Thorn Tree bulletin board has reader’s input on different destinations.

Rec.Travel Library: This is a very comprehensive collection of international travel information based on the archives of the rec.travel Usenet newsgroups. You’ll find personal evaluations of almost every possible world destination, travel tips from experts, and frequently asked questions on everything from currency to white-water rafting.

Stanford Travel Medicine Service: Patient Information: From diarrhea to insect repellents, this Stanford clinic tells you how to take care of unpleasant illnesses that could ruin your trip. Also has tips on traveling with children and keeping the kids healthy in unfamiliar terrain.

Travel Tips From the American Society of Travel Agents: If you like to be prepared, these tips from those in the industry could be invaluable. Those in the know will tell you how to choose a travel agent, rent a car, pack your bags, tip your waiter, and avoid travel problems during the holidays.

The Weather Channel Online: Not only can you check the weather outlook for over 1,200 US cities, but you can get the snowfall and resort conditions for hundreds of US ski areas. This is particularly handy if you can’t decide whether or not to pack the expedition-weight thermal underwear.

MetroActive Goes Trippin’ . . .

Don’t Miss Saigon: Playing the Pacific Rim by bike requires stamina and good wheels.

Cruising Oblivion: Life aboard a cruise ship is a lesson in scheduling and snoozing.

On the Road: Traveling doesn’t have to mean planes and trains. Automobiles and thumbs can get you pretty far.

Southern Sunshine: Paradise found on Mexico’s tropical beaches.

Romancing the Romanesque: Scouring France in search Crusader ruins.

An Idiot’s Guide to the Universe: How to keep Europeans from thinking you’re completely hopeless.

Queer Across the World: Transcending homophobia in search of another buck.

Packing Heat: Paranoid or not, it’s always a good idea to keep an eye out for danger when you travel.

Virtual World: Armchair travelers can feed their wanderlust on the web.

From the April 25-May 1, 1996 issue of Metro

This page was designed and created by the Boulevards team.
&copy 1996 Metro Publishing and Virtual Valley, Inc.

Laguna Uplands

0

Shaky Ground

By David Templeton

THROUGHOUT the months-long, controversy-laden, grassroots effort to raise $1.3 million to buy Sebastopol’s Laguna Uplands area–site of a historic Pomo settlement and slated for 18 luxury homes–from its would-be developers, the essential questions concerned whether such a thing was even possible.

When a group of local Native Americans, to everyone’s surprise, came forward to protest the plan and to demand more input into the decision-making process, the question became, “What in the world will happen next?”

Last week, escrow closed on the culturally and ecologically sensitive 8.5-acre property, and LandWrights–the land trust organization that has been working with the Laguna Uplands Project–received the title to the land, preventing the high-priced housing subdivision (the infamous Palm Terrace) that was once considered inevitable.

But the future of the land remains uncertain.

“We honestly don’t know,” laughs LandWrights spokesperson Joan Vilms when asked about future plans for the property. “Until now, all of our efforts have been on acquisition. During that whole process, we never knew from day to day if it was falling apart or coming together. Planning ahead wasn’t really our job.”

An “Open Land” celebration is likely for later this summer, she suggests. Beyond that, Vilms expresses a desire to catch her breath and get her bearings before galloping forward on anything major. “We’re improvising,” she adds. “But we now know the land is saved.”

One thing that won’t happen, Vilms says, is the construction of a Native American cultural center, a controversial suggestion made months ago and opposed by local Pomos. That proposal nearly scuttled the whole project when local environmentalist Ann Maurice, chairperson for the Native American Land Committee of Ya-Ka-Ma, launched a pre-emptive move intended, according to Maurice, to assure that the land would be left in its natural state. Proponents of the Laguna Project say it was much ado about nothing.

“There never was any intention of building a center on the site,” Vilms strongly affirms. “The idea came up, but the emphasis on it was completely distorted. We have no plans for anything like that.”

But that’s not good enough for Maurice, who threatens legal action if a Native American cultural center is proposed. “We want them to put that in writing,” she says. “They have, as part of the [conservation] easement, retained a development right to construct buildings, parking lots, and other structures, and there’s no guarantee that they will not exercise that option. If they do exercise such an option, we want guarantees that they will do appropriate environmental impact studies.

“This is our first key concern.”

The other concern–that Native Americans be a prominent voice in the future management of the land–appears to be of equal importance to the new owners.

“We are looking for the positive voices in the community,” Vilms explains, “including, obviously, the Native American community to whom this land is meaningful. Our concept is for native people and non-native people to work together on this as partners, for there really to be that coming together.

“That’s the vision we want to work toward.”

MEANWHILE, fundraising will continue to be an important element, Vilms says. The Laguna Uplands Project has paid Palm Terrace owner Jim Ghilotti a little over $1 million so far, a large part of which was derived from a $900,000 contribution from the Sonoma County Open Space District. In a generous agreement with the local developer, $35,000 is due within two months and the remaining $300,000 must be paid over the next three years; at $1,350,000, the purchase price is a substantial reduction from the original $1.5 million. The fundraising will now veer from the state-of-emergency style, bake-sale, and penny-jar approach that has characterized the effort to focus on larger private and corporate donations.

As to how the property will be managed, Vilms can only speculate. “What I hope happens now is that a stewardship committee is assembled to deal with things as they come up,” she offers. “We’ll be assembling a team of restoration biologists and Native American people to begin looking at what would be appropriate and how the property should be restored.

“We also would expect, now that the land is protected, that the city will implement the Laguna Trail.” City officials have held that the property is key to the construction of the long-planned Laguna Trail, which would lead from the Laguna Uplands to the Laguna de Santa Rosa at the eastern edge of Sebastopol. “One of our focuses,” Vilms continues, “will be for the community to make sure that the trail happens.”

As for the day-to-day management of the land, Vilms says no one is in any hurry to act. “The land has been sitting there for 15 years with no management,” she concludes. “It’s a pasture. It grows grass. Nature is managing the land. That’s how we want it to continue to be.”

From the May 9-15, 1996 issue of the Sonoma Independent

This page was designed and created by the Boulevards team.
&copy 1996 Metro Publishing and Virtual Valley, Inc.

‘The Pallbearer’

The Postgrad

‘Friends’ star in lightweight comedy

By Richard von Busack

AN ALTERNATE TITLE for The Pallbearer could be The Postgraduate. The film is a new study on the old subject of what happens when school ends. The hero is spending a few awful months living with mom; he’s girlfriendless, feeling like a 22-year-old child and hunting around, in a desperate but irresolute manner, for work. If this wispy, exceedingly minor movie makes its mark, it will be because, like its predecessor The Graduate, it sounds out the frustrations of a generation of young people leaving school, fearful–as well they might be–of abandoning the nest.

The highly Dustin Hoffman-like actor David Schwimmer may also rope in an audience for The Pallbearer. Schwimmer is the Jughead type on Friends. Every movie or TV show about young people always has to have some unkempt comedy relief, just like the original Jughead Jones in the Archie comics. Schwimmer fits the bill–unkempt, goofy, and sleepy-eyed in the midst of the best-looking group of allegedly average people in America.

As the hopeless Tom Thompson in The Pallbearer, he’s frustrated and imprisoned in the New York boroughs somewhere, as the Bruce Jay Friedman title has it, Far from the City of Class. One day, Thompson receives a phone call from the grieving mother of one Bill Abernathy, a friend who has just committed suicide.

The bereaved mother wants Thompson to be one of the pallbearers at the funeral, a request he can’t refuse–despite the fact that he has no recollection of the deceased, who is a blank spot in the school yearbook, with the italicized caption “Chess Club.” Thompson ends up being not only a pallbearer but the reciter of the eulogy at the funeral, and his best comic moment comes when he tries to figure out some ideas to match the theme, “Who was Bill Abernathy?”

The funeral doesn’t end the imposture. Thompson winds up in uncomfortably close quarters consoling Mrs. Abernathy (a cool, poisonously tough performance by Barbara Hershey) even as he sets his sights on a nervous girl named Julie (Gwyneth Paltrow) who is about to leave on some sort of vaguely planned trip.

Just as Anne Bancroft’s chained giant of a housewife, Mrs. Robinson, tends to drown out memories of Katharine Ross in The Graduate, so does Hershey overwhelm the run-of-the-mill schoolgirl for whom Thompson pines to the score of Erik Satie’s music. I haven’t heard any Satie on screen since Pachelbel’s Canon cornered the market on tasteful cinematic classical.

It may be that the movie needed some tastefulness in the music, what with Carol Kane’s bellowing bit as Thompson’s mom and Michael Rappaport as his coarse best friend. Seeing Rappaport in his debut in the atmospheric independent film Zebrahead, I’d thought that he was going to go places; having seen Beautiful Girls and Mighty Aphrodite, I wish he would.

As for Schwimmer, he’s reasonably likable, but he has only one note; he’s a worm who will never turn very much. And the movie shares his lackadaisical mood. It’s tentative, hangdog, and unfinished, with a reconciliation that seems false, considering the fierceness that Hershey shows–she’s as hungry as only a 50-year-old actress can be in a business where you’re old by the time you hit 29.

This page was designed and created by the Boulevards team.
&copy 1996 Metro Publishing and Virtual Valley, Inc.

Radio Daze

0

Radio Daze

By Greg Cahill

LOCAL COUNTRY MUSIC fans–and lord knows there’s a whole wholesome heap of ’em–are about to be part and parcel to a tug of war for their affections. This week, KRAZ (100.9 FM)–a new Santa Rosa-based country radio station owned by broadcast entrepreneur Fred Constant of Calistoga, proprietor of local adult alternative station KRSH (98.7 FM)–started broadcasting a sample of its down-home sounds over the airwaves, the first salvo in what surely will become a wild scramble for a big slice of the local country radio pie.

The new station, which will share space at KRSH’s Santa Rosa studio, will sport a contemporary country music format quite similar to that of local FM heavyweight Q105. The two also will have something else in common: popular radio DJ Rick Jackson has been lured away from Q105 to hold down the mike at KRAZ. The program director at the new station has not been named yet, though Jackson is a candidate. Brad Kahn, general sales manager at KRAZ, also is a former Q105 employee.

“I’m very excited by this new station,” says Constant, 54, a former Princeton University religion and literature major who has owned a dozen radio stations over the years. “We’ve been working on this project since 1990.”

His wife, Petaluma native Mary Fairbanks Constant–president of Wine Country Radio, the couple’s Santa Rosa-based broadcasting firm–applied six years ago to the Federal Communications Commission to start the new station. Last December she successfully negotiated a settlement with another applicant, Gary Wilson of San Rafael, who also had asked the FCC for a chance to air on that frequency.

KRAZ is scheduled tentatively to go into full operation on May 20.

The signal from the 6,000-watt station, which will broadcast from a tower atop Mount St. Helena, will span Sonoma and Napa counties. “From a competitive standpoint, our signal should be better than [Q105’s],” Constant says. “And we think we can create a country station that will have lots of fun and excitement and that will be uniquely different in this market. One way we’ll do that is to be actively involved in the community.”

Programming at KRAZ will feature mostly songs by the cream of the Nashville revival: Alan Jackson, Reba McEntire, Garth Brooks, George Strait, et al. But Constant, who confesses to having a weak spot for such alternative country acts as Lyle Lovett and Steve Earle, also wants to feature a specialty show fashioned after the South Bay alternative country station KPIG’s “Americana” program. He also may incorporate some of those more adventurous programming elements in the new station’s daily broadcasts.

During the next few weeks, listeners will have a chance to phone in their preferences.

KRAZ joins 11 other stations in the local radio market at a time of unprecedented growth in the Sonoma County broadcasting industry. Last week, the owners of four local stations–KSRO, KXFX, KLCQ, owned by Fuller-Jeffrey Broadcasting of Massachusetts; and KMGG, owned by Pacific Radio of Santa Rosa–signed letters of intent with a new buyer, Amaturo Group of Fort Lauderdale, Fla. Earlier this year, two other new stations, KJZY of Santa Rosa and KHBG of Healdsburg, went on the air.

But the latest entry underscores the continued strength of the resurgent country music market. “This format started to soar in 1990 fueled by hip-hop and rap music taking over–and eventually killing–contemporary hit radio,” says Bob Glasco, vice president of consulting services for Rusty Walker Programming, the Arizona-based country radio firm that is helping to program KRAZ. “At about that same time, the country music industry saw a lot of great acts with a lot of great songs come along. There also were a lot of disenfranchised people looking for a current form of music that would be palatable.

“It was a combination of those forces colliding that made for the recent rise of country music.”

In recent years, country music has become one of the top radio music formats in the Bay Area, which boasts three major country stations. A decade ago, there was one country station in each major radio market in the United States; today there are more than 1,400 across the country.

What will distinguish KRAZ from Q105, its closest competitor? “We hope that listeners will find our presentation more entertaining,” says Glasco. “And–for lack of a better way of putting it–that we’ll have a better batting average at playing people’s favorite songs.”

From the May 2-8, 1996 issue of the Sonoma Independent

This page was designed and created by the Boulevards team.
&copy 1996 Metro Publishing and Virtual Valley, Inc.

‘Moon for the Misbegotten’

0

Farm Work

By Gretchen Giles

I USED TO BE a snotty, self-absorbed actress,” snorts Lennie Dean, “but now I don’t have time for that bunk.” Dean, a theater teacher who specializes in the internal energies of the Eric Morris technique of acting, doesn’t even really have time for this phone call. A busy mother of three, she is calling from the front office of her children’s school during a volunteer-day break.

“I feel so different because I’m a mother, and I feel that I’m giving in a different way,” she says of her first return to the stage in 10 years, starring as Josie in the First Stage Company’s production of Eugene O’Neill’s semi-autobiographical cycle play, Moon for the Misbegotten.

“Some actors are on the stage to get something from the audience,” she analyzes. “I’m excited and tenuous about my relationship with the audience, but I feel like I have something to share.”

And share she will, for Dean is onstage for almost every moment of this absorbing work, directed by Michael Fontaine. Written by O’Neill in 1943 as the natural progression to his (posthumously awarded) Pulitzer Prize-winning play, Long Day’s Journey into Night, Moon follows the unfortunate progression of one James Tyrone Jr. (played by Gary Wium).

Wobbling in his father’s footsteps, James is a failed actor with a drinking problem, the severity of which kept him too whacked to even attend his morphine-addled mother’s funeral. Returning to his family’s now-leased farm, a sort of scene of the grime where he endured the sad, abusive childhood so wincingly chronicled in Journey, James encounters his tenants Josie and her father, Phil.

Certain that James means to sell the farm, Phil persuades Josie to attempt a graceless seduction of the unwilling James, hoping to haul a shotgun and a veil out of the same trunk, thus marrying the farm as tight as a tourniquet.

The depth of this piece is primarily pooled around the stolid, unlovely Josie. Forget all the wink and nudge jokes about the farmer’s daughter. This girl works like a man, and resembles one through the waist. A particular challenge for Dean–who, after carrying her babies to healthy term, has lost some her willowy youth–has been to channel and realize the feelings evoked by inhabiting a role that reeks of self-disgust.

“It’s been hard for me,” she offers. “It’s been good, but it’s been hard personally. She deals with her beauty, [and] my image of myself in my head is very different from what I see when I look in the mirror. So I’ve worked with it very personally. There is just no way that I could do the play and not deal with those issues. I mean, I could, but it would have no water.”

Josie has wreaked her transformation on Dean in other ways as well. “All that I can ever do is to work with the piece,” she says quickly, as the din of schoolchildren returning from recess grows behind her. “In the play Josie distrusts all of the men, and in my life I’ve found that this has happened to a certain extent with me, too.”

Fortunately, Dean trusts Michael Fontaine, to whom she first proposed mounting this play. Thrilled with being able to direct an actress of Dean’s caliber in a role that seemed made in some dark heaven just for her, Fontaine eagerly scheduled it. As he often does, he is also building the set, an actual barn ringed on three sides by audience members and culled from the first-stand redwood of an old Petaluma chicken coop once listing on a property adjacent to the Cinnabar Theater.

Dean has to go back into the classroom. “It’s a very beautiful play,” she says quickly. “Very deep, and very dramatic. It’s a good role for me . . . [and] if I can have one moment on stage that is life, then I have accomplished my goal.”

Moon for the Misbegotten plays Fridays-Saturdays at 8 p.m., May 2-11, with special performances Thursday, May 9, at 8 p.m. and Sunday, May 5, at 3 p.m. Cinnabar Theater, 3333 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma. $8-$12. 763-8920.

From the May 2-8, 1996 issue of the Sonoma Independent

This page was designed and created by the Boulevards team.
&copy 1996 Metro Publishing and Virtual Valley, Inc.

Cloverdale

0

Bypass Surgery


Photos by Janet Orsi.

Dead/Alive: While some Cloverdale businesses, like the Wheel Cafe, have closed since the Highway 101 bypass, the town will soon boast a downtown pedestrian plaza.

In the wake of the Highway 101 bypass, Cloverdale survives and even thrives

By Zack Stentz

IN APRIL 1994, when Highway 101 was finally routed around Cloverdale, many expected the town to “dry up and blow away in the wind,” as longtime resident Bonnie Goodman puts it. The freeway, that once bisected the town of 5,700 had dominated Cloverdale’s existence for the previous 40 years, and tourists passing through on their way to Anderson Valley, Mendocino, or Clear Lake could be forgiven for thinking Cloverdale consisted entirely of a strip of gas stations, liquor stores, and drive-in restaurants serving greasy fries and goopy soft-serve cones, punctuated at the south end by the makeshift shrine built where Polly Klaas’ body was found.

Once completed, the bypass changed Cloverdale so radically and rapidly that even natives had a difficult time recognizing their hometown. “When the bypass first went though,” Goodman recalls, “a lot of the kids coming home from college would get lost because they didn’t know which exit to turn off at. It can be pretty confusing.”

Indeed, the Cloverdale of 1996 is a starkly different place from the town that existed just two years ago. The exhaust-spewing steel river of 24,000 to 30,000 cars, trucks, and Winnebagos that once flowed through Cloverdale each day on an average weekend (40,000 on Labor Day) has slowed to a trickle of 7,000 or fewer daily. Several businesses, including a gas station, several restaurants, and a sporting goods store, have closed down, leaving empty storefronts and torn-down lots.

“The Cloverdale you remember from before the bypass is gone,” says city planning director Joe Heckel bluntly.

But look closer and signs of civic revival can be discerned. Shops along Cloverdale Boulevard (formerly Highway 101) boast spiffy new façades. Downtown sidewalks, once exhaust-choked and deserted by day, are now alive with pedestrians. Attractive new WPA-style murals depicting scenes from the region’s history adorn the walls of one building. And at one intersection, construction workers hurry to complete work on a handsome downtown pedestrian plaza. The space, set for completion by June 1, is tailor-made for outdoor concerts, art shows, and leisurely strolls during the warm summer evenings.

Even more remarkable, many of the citizens who once awaited the bypass with dread now relish life in Cloverdale without Highway 101. “I think it’s great,” comments young Cloverdale resident Jennifer Nickolaus as she stops at a gas station for a much-needed soda. True to form, the temperature in Cloverdale this Friday afternoon hovers in the low 80s, several degrees warmer than the rest of Sonoma County. But while two years earlier the boulevard would already be packed with weekend vacationers headed north, the scene now is calm, almost meditative as the air shimmers with heat haze on the quiet thoroughfare. “I can actually cross the street during the day now,” Nickolaus says of her hometown. “And it’s nice to see how the town’s trying to improve its image.”

Surprisingly, Nickolaus’ sentiment is echoed by gas station manager Linda Caldwell, who might reasonably be expected to be hurting from the diversion of so much traffic. “We’re right at the freeway exit, and Cloverdale’s still a natural place for people to stop, so we didn’t lose too much business,” Caldwell explains. “And we don’t have to deal with all the great big trucks pulling in and out anymore. I feel bad for the places that have lost business, but the bypass has really helped the town.”

HOPING TO CAPITALIZE on all this civic goodwill, Cloverdale has also embarked on an image-burnishing campaign, and recently unveiled a spiffy new logo of stylized trees and vineyards, accompanied by the slogan “Where the wine country meets the redwoods.” But a more apt civic motto might have been Nietzsche’s famous observation “That which does not kill us makes us stronger,” for citizens seem determined to build a new and improved Cloverdale out of the adversity their town has weathered of late.

“The bypass was the last of a series of hits Cloverdale’s taken,” says Heckel. “We also lost 500 to 600 manufacturing jobs between 1988 and 1994, between the fire equipment factory closing and the logging industry shrinking.”

But even the elimination of 300 jobs in one fell swoop when Louisiana-Pacific abandoned its lumber mill on the south end of town in 1993 can’t compare to the impact of the freeway changing, according to Heckel. “The bypass definitely had a bigger impact than LP leaving, because it meant a lifestyle change for everyone here,” he says. “And a bypass really throttles the economy of a small town, because investment always goes where the traffic does.

“A lot of people in the community and investors from out of town weren’t sure where to put their investments, because no one was sure where the freeway was to be sited,” he adds. “Should I build in the downtown or out by the interchange? These questions had no answers until the freeway was actually built, so that got redevelopment off to a slow start.”

Also hampering redevelopment efforts was the slow pace of construction on the freeway project, which was first proposed in the late 1940s, with land buying and construction proceeding in dribs and drabs from the 1960s onward. “Portions of this freeway were actually built in 1974 and 1981 in little bits and pieces,” says Heckel, “but these sections didn’t connect to anything.”

And with the Highway 101 rerouting hanging like a thunderhead on the horizon for nearly four decades, many citizens assumed it would never be completed and neglected to make plans for the project’s aftermath. “People knew about the bypass,” says local restaurateur Mike Nixon. “But they were sort of in awe of it. It was just too big a change for them to contemplate.”

“It took the passage of state Proposition 111 in the late 1980s for the bypass to receive full funding, and it was then that the city first started to get serious about preparing for life after it,” Heckel recalls. “That’s when we started doing a lot of homework.”

With the help of a $125,000 grant from the state and a lot of research, town leaders came up with an ambitious plan to revitalize Cloverdale by remaking the downtown into a foot-friendly small-town shopping district that harks back to the Cloverdale of yesteryear. “The community has given a vision of the town they want, and we’re working on achieving that,” says Heckel. “And that is a pedestrian-oriented downtown, a growing economy, and a better-looking town for both residents and visitors. “

HECKEL’S OFFICE, within earshot of the construction din rising from the downtown plaza work site, houses the literal blueprints for the new Cloverdale taking shape. His office is crammed with lush, oversized architectural renderings of the small-town paradise Cloverdale is aiming to become, which the energetic planner displays with the pride of a fisherman clicking through slides of the prize marlin he caught last summer. One rendering depicts the completed plaza, while another illustrates the next stage of redevelopment by reimagining Cloverdale’s main east-west corridor–the down-at-the heels First Street–as a tree-lined, pedestrian-oriented avenue of shops and restaurants. Still another painting shows a refurbished Cloverdale Boulevard, its unsightly CalTrans lights and fixtures replaced by old-fashioned lampposts and signs, giving the main drag a distinctly retro, American Graffiti look.

The “back to the future” motif is intentional, Heckel confirms. “What you have restored is the small town Cloverdale was before traffic on 101 got so heavy,” he says. “Once upon a time, Cloverdale was very self-reliant. But as traffic on the highway increased, more local businesses started catering to the traffic going through town, and more local residents started doing their shopping in Santa Rosa and Ukiah. We lost the clothing stores, the furniture stores, those kind of establishments.”

“A lot of the basics are missing,” agrees Cloverdale business owner David Reynolds. “There’s no shoe store in town, no taxicab company, no place to buy blue jeans. We need more service-oriented businesses like those.”

As this north county town has turned into a bedroom community for Healdsburg and Santa Rosa, the commuters who jam the on-ramps to 101 south every weekday morning tend to shop in the communities where they work. “Our economic survey indicated that we’re losing 80 cents on the dollar from every Cloverdale resident,” says Heckel. “That’s all money that’s being spent out of town, and we’d like to keep more of those dollars here, by encouraging businesses that cater to local residents.

“And also to get some of those tourist dollars.”


Janet Orsi

Five years ago the thought of Cloverdale as a tourist destination would have sounded like a joke in search of a punch line. In living memory, the town had always been sold as a way station on the route toward a much more desirable destination, sort of a smaller version of the much-maligned Fresno with its “Two Hours to Yosemite” motto. But Heckel and his fellow planners aren’t laughing.

“There’s still a pretty good stream of traffic that goes through town,” Heckel says. “And a lot of those folks are interested in wine-country, small-town, Russian River ambiance. People are drawn to small towns, but we have to give them things to do once they get here. A boutique, or coffee shop, or outdoor cafe. Things like those attract both tourists and local folks.”

An even bigger lure for out-of towners should be the new county regional park shaping up along the banks of the Russian River, which borders the east side of town. “We’ve just gotten approval from the Open Space District to create a 50-acre park along the river,” Heckel beams, “with boat launching, walking and biking trails. We’ll have the largest stretch of Russian River access in Sonoma County.”

Reynolds, who owns Cloverdale Cyclery, is practically salivating at the prospect of the new park. “That could really help us by increasing the number of visitors and bike rentals we do during the summer,” he says. “And it will be a wonderful thing for the people who live here, too.”

Other plans to attract tourists include capitalizing on Cloverdale’s location between the up-and-coming wine regions of Anderson Valley and Alexander Valley. “We’re working to develop a regional wine visitors’ center in Cloverdale,” says Linda Brown, executive director of the Cloverdale Chamber of Commerce. “And we’re also negotiating with restaurant developers and trying to lure a hotel into town to upgrade our lodging accommodations here.”

But towns don’t live on bike rentals and boutiques alone, so Cloverdale’s economic leaders have drawn up plans to attract new businesses in an attempt to regrow some of the manufacturing jobs lost over the past eight years. Surveys and conversations with townspeople confirm that a lack of local jobs is a prime concern of Cloverdale residents.

“We do need more jobs,” admits Reynolds. “But on the bright side, we don’t have the problems with gangs, crime, and housing costs that the other Sonoma County towns complain about, and that makes us an attractive place for companies to locate.”

Again, planners wish to take advantage of Cloverdale’s proximity to wine country when attracting businesses. “We believe a lot of suppliers to the wine industry could profitably locate here, like glass manufacturers, barrel makers, cork makers, and the like,” Heckel explains. “A lot of Sonoma County wineries buy their supplies from Napa manufacturers, so we think there’s room for Cloverdale to get some of that business.”

According to Heckel, 20 new manufacturing jobs have been created in Cloverdale over the last year, out of the 72 the economic development committee hopes to add to the town’s industrial base by 1998. “We’ve also seen some existing businesses expand their operations,” says Brown. “It’s very encouraging.”

To be sure, though, not everyone in town is dancing a jig over the state of the new Cloverdale. “There are still people saying ‘the town’s gonna die,’ ” says Goodman, office manager of the venerable Cloverdale Reveille weekly newspaper. “And the north end of town, away from the freeway exits, does seem to be dying.”

“Dying” might be too strong a word to describe the north section of Cloverdale Boulevard, but many businesses there have clearly seen better days. At the Hi Fi Drive-In, one of Cloverdale’s seemingly infinite number of Foster Freeze-style diners, the large blacktop parking lot sits empty in the early afternoon sun. “We slowed down for a while after the bypass, but it’s begun to pick up again,” says employee Cindy Lewis.

Fellow worker Alethea Allen pins her hopes for the Hi Fi’s resurgence on the three new housing developments being built in and around Cloverdale. “If they fill up all the houses they’re building, we won’t have any problems,” she says.

“McDonald’s going in on the south end of town probably hurt us more,” adds Lewis. “But we still have the best burgers in town.”

“Well, the best under five dollars,” Allen corrects.

But even with the hit their employer has taken, Allen and Lewis relish the positive aspects the bypass has brought. “We both have kids, and it’s opened up a whole new world for them,” Lewis says. “We can finally let them ride their bikes around town.”

KIDS RIDING BIKES. The homey image is evoked by so many residents as a symbol of post-bypass Cloverdale, it seems to have become an unofficial civic logo. (In fact, a recent oversized postcard sent out to 7,000 businesses to lure them to Cloverdale featured a large cover picture of–surprise, surprise–a cherubic schoolboy riding a bike past a white picket fence.) But according to Reynolds, the ability to ride a bicycle downtown isn’t something residents take for granted. “It used to be too dangerous,” bike shop proprietor Reynolds recalls. “But now parents are letting their kids ride bikes to school, and it’s been great for my business.”

A former Marin County resident who transplanted to Cloverdale in 1984, the effusive, open-faced Reynolds practically gushes when describing his adopted hometown’s potential. “This is Sonoma County’s forgotten city, and it’s just about to ‘pop,’ ” he says. “We’ve got a good high school, great quality of life, and housing isn’t as expensive here as in the rest of the county. In Marin, by the time I was through buying groceries and chasing women, I could barely afford the rent down there.

“This is the place to be,” he adds, pointing proudly out his front window at the downtown plaza taking shape across the street.

Over on First Street, just beyond Cloverdale’s only stoplight, fellow business owner Nixon shares Reynolds’ bullishness on his hometown’s future. The 26-year-old owner of Papa’s Pizza Café has actually seen his business increase since the bypass. “Since we’re off the main boulevard, we never really drew large numbers of tourists passing through,” says Nixon, standing in the dining area of his clean, airy restaurant, where kids and businesspeople mingle comfortably with good ol’ boys in cowboy hats. “And with more people walking around downtown, our business is up, and we’ve had to buy new equipment as a result.”

Nixon recently added an outdoor dining patio to accommodate his extra patrons and to take advantage of Cloverdale’s balmy evenings. “I would never have put the patio in if 101 was still going through town,” he says.

Looking ahead, Nixon relishes the prospect of further downtown redevelopment. “They’re planning to reopen the [city’s only] movie theater down the street this summer, which should help even more,” he says. “I can really see this as becoming a real live retail center in the next few years.”

Heckel, too, is optimistic about his town’s future. “We’re seeing unanimous support from the City Council and Chamber of Commerce about the direction the town is going,” he says. “Here you’ve got a lot of support for getting jobs, revitalizing the downtown, and taking advantage of this wave of enthusiasm to get things going. You have to be optimistic because we’re seeing results from our efforts.”

Of course, it’s possible the townspeople overestimate the role their own efforts are playing in Cloverdale’s budding revival. New residents, spreading up Highway 101 like a column of ants, are being driven away from Windsor and Healdsburg by the rising home prices as much as they are being drawn to Cloverdale by its pedestrian downtown and small-town ambiance.

But while further development in Cloverdale might be inevitable, the direction that growth takes certainly is not. Locals are aware of their hometown’s former reputation as an armpit of Sonoma County (San Francisco Focus magazine once named Cloverdale the ugliest small town in the greater Bay Area), and that knowledge seems to be a large factor in motivating them to remake the place.

“We don’t just drive through,” explains Nixon. “We’re the ones who live here. And we really want to be proud of Cloverdale.”

From the May 2-8, 1996 issue of the Sonoma Independent

This page was designed and created by the Boulevards team.
&copy 1996 Metro Publishing and Virtual Valley, Inc.

Mexico

Paradise Found Christina WatersThe High and the Flighty: A forest of chaise lounges and a soothing pool form the bedrock of Camino Real's sybaritic escape scenario in Puerto Vallarta.Zihuatanejo's Hotel Villa del Sol and Puerto Vallarta's Camino Real are two ways of saying "tropical paradise" in fluent MexicanBy Christina WatersFor over a decade now, we've fled winter's chill by...

Gay Travel

Queer SkiesBy Bruce MirkinGays and lesbians may be some distance from achieving full equality in this country, but there's no question that the group has evolved by leaps and bounds as a market niche. One of the clearest signs is the growing boom in gay travel services. Queer-oriented resorts, cruises and more have been around for years, of course,...

Travel Safety and Paranoia

How to PackBy Rick Sine'Whenever Barbara Brandt travels in her car she takes her Smith & Wesson," chirps an article by ranking paranoiac Paxton Quigley.The author of Armed and Female, Quigley teaches thousands of women how to shoot handguns in her seminars with the deadpan title "Women's Empowerment in the '90s." Last but not least, she's a flack for...

Tips for the Adventurous

Idiot-Proof Travel TipsBy Christina WatersThe Big PictureBook big cities in advance. Leave smaller towns and villages for spontaneous decisions. We always have the front and the end of the trip reserved way in advance. Do not attempt to just breeze into a city like Paris without a hotel confirmation in your hot little hand. You need to know that...

Web Travel

Virtually EverywhereBy Trystan L. BassThe best travel-related sites on the world wide web cover a wide range of topics, from budget travel to cruises to foreign languages. These sites have good, solid information that travelers can actually use, as opposed to me tons of travel web sites that are pure advertisements. A word of warning -- most of these...

Laguna Uplands

Shaky GroundBy David TempletonTHROUGHOUT the months-long, controversy-laden, grassroots effort to raise $1.3 million to buy Sebastopol's Laguna Uplands area--site of a historic Pomo settlement and slated for 18 luxury homes--from its would-be developers, the essential questions concerned whether such a thing was even possible. When a group of local Native Americans, to everyone's surprise, came forward to protest the...

‘The Pallbearer’

The Postgrad 'Friends' star in lightweight comedyBy Richard von BusackAN ALTERNATE TITLE for The Pallbearer could be The Postgraduate. The film is a new study on the old subject of what happens when school ends. The hero is spending a few awful months living with mom; he's girlfriendless, feeling like a 22-year-old child and hunting around, in a desperate...

Radio Daze

Radio DazeBy Greg CahillLOCAL COUNTRY MUSIC fans--and lord knows there's a whole wholesome heap of 'em--are about to be part and parcel to a tug of war for their affections. This week, KRAZ (100.9 FM)--a new Santa Rosa-based country radio station owned by broadcast entrepreneur Fred Constant of Calistoga, proprietor of local adult alternative station KRSH (98.7 FM)--started broadcasting...

‘Moon for the Misbegotten’

Farm WorkBy Gretchen GilesI USED TO BE a snotty, self-absorbed actress," snorts Lennie Dean, "but now I don't have time for that bunk." Dean, a theater teacher who specializes in the internal energies of the Eric Morris technique of acting, doesn't even really have time for this phone call. A busy mother of three, she is calling...

Cloverdale

Bypass SurgeryPhotos by Janet Orsi.Dead/Alive: While some Cloverdale businesses, like the Wheel Cafe, have closed since the Highway 101 bypass, the town will soon boast a downtown pedestrian plaza.In the wake of the Highway 101 bypass, Cloverdale survives and even thrivesBy Zack StentzIN APRIL 1994, when Highway 101 was finally routed around Cloverdale, many expected the town to...
11,084FansLike
4,606FollowersFollow
6,928FollowersFollow